Chapter 20: Successful Wine Management
Wine is the most complicated drink to serve and one of the easiest to prepare. Because wine is delicate, it must be stored away from light, heat, and sudden movements before it is served. It should also be stored on its side or at an angle to keep the cork moist. If the bottle is stored upright, the cork will dry out and allow air to seep into the bottle, spoiling the wine’s taste.
The taste of wine varies with temperature. Serve white and rosé wines at 46 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit, serve red wines at 62 to 68 degrees Fahrenheit, and serve champagnes and sparkling wines in an ice bucket at 42 to 48 degrees Fahrenheit. When serving wine, remember that there is a fair amount of snobbishness. Your goal should be a happy balance between making the customer feel comfortable in his knowledge of wine and giving the customer a chance to decide how he wants the wine served. Servers should ask the guest when he wants his wine served during the meal. If the customer seems unsure, it is acceptable for the server to make a gentle suggestion as to wine and the course to serve it with. The final decision rests with the customer.
SERVING WINE PROPERLY
There is a process in serving wine properly. Staff and servers should be taken through this process to ensure that the setting goes through without a hitch. Wine connoisseurs may not return to your bar if wine is not served according to accepted rules:
1. If serving red wine, uncork the bottle as soon as it is at the table so that it can “breathe.”
2. Place a napkin behind the bottle, with the label of the bottle facing the customer. Ensure that you have a good grip on the bottle.
3. Present the bottle, with label displayed, to the person who ordered the wine. Wait until the person has read the label to ensure that you have the bottle he requested. In most cases, a customer will nod slightly, make eye contact, or otherwise show approval of the wine. The cork should be slightly slanted toward the customer as well so that the customer can see any labeling or sealing on the cork.
4. Using the knife blade of a corkscrew, cut around the foil and remove the foil and capsule. Place these where the customer can reach them but out of the way of the other items on the table.
5. Use the napkin to gently clean the bottle and the bottle neck. A careful grip will ensure that the bottle does not slip.
6. Hold the bottle and insert the corkscrew about two-thirds into the cork. Place the bottle on the table and pull carefully on the cork. You do not want to jerk the bottle or push the corkscrew further into the bottle.
7. Once the bottle is open, make sure that the cork is not dry. Place the cork on the table, allowing the customer to see that the wine was stored correctly and that the bottle was opened properly. (No scarring on the underside means that the corkscrew was not punched in so far to cause floating cork bits in the wine.)
8. Pour a small amount of wine into the customer’s glass. To prevent drips, use the napkin at the neck of the bottle and give the bottle a slight twist as you finish pouring. Drips not only look unsightly, they indicate a waste of the customer’s money. The customer may reject the bottle of wine if there is something wrong with it; he cannot simply reject it because of the taste. If a bottle is rejected due to spoiling, it should be brought to management for investigation. For newer bottles, vendors will generally replace the item. Older vintages are usually not refunded.
9. Only once the customer has approved the wine should the others in the party be served. Serve women first and then the men, always ending with the customer who ordered the wine. Fill each glass only two-thirds full so that wine can be slightly swirled in the glass to release full aroma and flavor.
10. When a new bottle is ordered, new glasses should be brought and the process repeated.
Although this process seems time consuming, proper wine service will favorably impress those who know about wine and will add a touch of class to the experience of those who enjoy wine but do not know much about it.
SERVING SPARKLING WINE AND CHAMPAGNE
Champagne and sparkling wine are served differently than wine. It is also important to stress proper serving of these drinks among your staff, as opening the corks on these bottles can be tricky and awkward. To follow are the steps for proper sparkling wine and champagne service:
1. Bring the bottle to the table in an ice bucket.
2. Place a napkin behind the bottle. Show the bottle to the customer.
3. Using the knife implement, remove the foil from the bottle. Carefully remove the wire muzzle using your fingers.
4. Point the bottle away from the table and turn the bottle carefully and slowly. The bottle should “steam,” but no champagne should spill at all. The cork should be placed on the table.
5. Carefully pour champagne into champagne flutes, using the same care as with wine not to spill any. The process of tasting and approval is not necessary with champagne as the “fizz” of champagne shows the server that the champagne is not spoiled.
SERVING BY THE GLASS OR BY THE BOTTLE
Groups of bar customers will often order wine by the bottle or carafe. However, more and more bar customers are buying wine by the glass, even when they are meeting in groups and this makes selling wine by the glass an important marketing tool. Many of today’s regular wine drinkers like wine-by-the-glass programs. This clientele may patronize your establishment if you offer such a program. Well-organized wine-by-the-glass programs can double wine profits. With profit margins as high as 300 percent, premium wine by the glass can be as profitable as specialty drinks.
Some successful pubs, bars, and restaurants offer a wine-by-the-glass suggestion for certain appetizers and for every entrée to enhance each dish. Even customers not considering a glass of wine with their meal may be tempted to buy when it is suggested to them. You should not rely on the wait staff to recite the wine-by-the-glass list. The list is too long and the recitation may seem too intrusive or uninteresting to customers. A better idea is to use an attractive table tent or smaller menu design. Print the wine-by-the-glass list on a blackboard or sign that can be read from several areas of the dining room and bar. Even champagne sells better when sold by the glass. The fact is many patrons who would not consider buying wine or champagne by the bottle might consider buying a single glass, especially if the suggestion is presented to them in an appealing manner.
Every successful bar manager needs to decide how many wines-by-the-glass the bar should pour. It is not always an easy decision. You may select to offer as few as three wines or as many as 15 to 20. The numbers will depend on your marketing program and your customers. Be wary of offering more than 20 wines-by-the-glass because of potential losses from wine spoilage. Yet the average number of by-the-glass offerings in bars and restaurants has grown steadily. Many restaurants now pour at least 30 percent more wine than they did five years ago and their sales have benefited to a great extent.
There are various wine-by-the-glass dispensing systems available today that can assist with your program. These systems will keep uncorked wine fresh for up to six weeks, eliminating spoilage and waste. They are all temperature-controlled and use a nitrogen gas replacement system. The nitrogen gas instantly replaces the oxygen in a freshly opened bottle, thereby stopping the oxidation process that damages wine. There are a variety of manufacturers that now make these systems.
If you are offering wine-by-the glass programs — or are serving wine at all — you will need to consider wineglasses. The wineglass has a noticeable effect upon the taste of wine — the same wine will taste different in a fine crystal glass than in a cheap wineglass. Of course, crystal wineglasses are not very economical, especially since breakage can easily occur. Only the finest bars and restaurants can afford real crystal wineglasses. Nevertheless, you should purchase the best wineglasses that are affordable and you should never buy wineglasses without testing what wine tastes like in them.
You do not need to use a separate glass for reds, whites, and champagnes. You can save money by serving all wines in 10-ounce tulip-shaped glasses, which are quite suitable for any wine; buying these glasses in bulk leads to substantial savings. Invest in separate champagne glasses as soon as you can afford to; many people prefer the look for their champagne.
Buy glasses you can afford to break. In a bar, broken or missing glasses are quite common. Simple, clear glasses that are not cut, faceted, etched, or colored are less expensive and easier to replace. Another advantage of simple glasses is that they actually allow you to see the wine more clearly. Always choose wineglasses with generous bowls that allow patrons to swirl the wine in the glass to release the wine’s full flavor and aroma. A thin glass rim that tapers slightly inward will make the wine flow evenly and easily from the glass, also allowing the wine’s aroma to be maximized. Finally, be sure that the base allows the wineglass to stand firmly whether the glass is full or empty.
HALF BOTTLES AND DECANTERS
For customers who want to purchase more than a glass of wine but less than a full bottle, half bottles and decanters make an attractive choice. Half bottles can save a bar money when used as part of a wine-by-the-glass program, as they offer less spoilage than full bottles. Half bottles are also favored by single diners and couples. Storing half bottles can be challenging as most storage racks are not designed to handle these bottles.
Decanters are used for older wines. Wines older than ten years have sediment in them. Pouring the wine into a carafe or decanter allows the sediment to be removed before serving.
To decant wine:
1. Place a candle on the table alongside the bottle and decanter.
2. As you pour, watch through the lit bottle for sediment to appear in the neck; when it does, stop pouring.
3. The remainder of the wine may be discarded or strained through cheese cloth in the kitchen.
WINE SERVICE INNOVATIONS
There are a number of innovative products that can help regulate wine service as well as store and preserve wine. You may be interested in:
• Winekeeper produces a line of dispensing and preserving systems for wine. Their use makes enjoying fine wine an extended and pleasurable experience. Winekeeper units consist of handcrafted, custom-quality cabinetry and employ proven nitrogen gas preservation technology. Single bottle units to larger commercial units are available. Custom applications, designs, and finishes are available. For more information, contact Winekeeper at 625 E. Haley Street, Santa Barbara, CA 93103, phone 805-963-3451, or visit www.winekeeper.com.
• OZ Winebars are another option for serving wine by the glass. OZ Winebars is a wine refrigerator designed specifically to store and dispense both red and white wine. OZ Winebars has an advanced commercial system for managing, refrigerating, preserving, and serving opened wines. OZ Winebars extends the serving life of your wines and provides your staff a clean, efficient vehicle for your wine service program in an exciting, authoritative ambience for your customers. For more information, contact OZEM Corp, 832 Harvard Drive, Holland, MI 49423, phone 866-617-3345, or visit www.ozwinebars.com.
WINE STORAGE AND PRESENTATION
If wine is an important part of your bar or nightclub, you may want to invest in a wine cellar, cabinet, or other wine accessories. There is a vast variety available for every type of service and décor. Following are just a few examples:
• Vinotemp offers a wide selection of wine cellars and wine cellar accessory equipment: storage systems, cooler systems, wine racks, wine storage cabinets, humidors, liquor cooler cabinets, wine cellar design, and wine storage. They have a wide design range of models, door styles, various woods, numerous finishes, and a variety of refrigerator and rack design options, as well as thousands of unique wine cellars and storage cabinets available, even custom-designed units. The 700 Monaco Modern by Vinotemp, pictured at right, features two decorative glass doors, special furniture trim design with fluorescent light, and individual redwood and aluminum racking. Dimensions: 59” W x 33” D x 92” H. Approximate bottle capacity: 550. For more information, visit www.vinotemp.com or call 800-777-VINO (8466).
CHOOSING TYPES OF WINE
Just a few years ago, many bars offered only two choices of wine: white or red. Today many bars now have extensive wine lists, with selections of wine from the common to the rare. This resurgence has to do with a renewed interest in wine. Wine tastings and wine classes are becoming more popular and knowledge of wines is now considered quite desirable. As a result, bar patrons are becoming more knowledgeable and curious about wines. Recent studies suggesting moderate wine consumption can be good for one’s health are also adding to wine’s popularity. As wine’s popularity continues to grow, on-premise consumption grows.
Decide how much wine you want to keep in your bar. Some bars stock wine cellars with hundreds of bottles while others serve only a few or none at all. Wine always enhances meals and is still ordered by the glass at bars. The best way to determine which wines to stock is to look at your intended clientele and competition. If you decide to serve wine, develop a wine list to help determine which wines to keep in stock.
Certain wines go with certain foods. The smart bar manager will learn the rudiments of wine and ensure that his staff has a basic knowledge of wine. This knowledge will allow the bar staff to make suggestions to patrons.
Wine is a fermented grape juice that comes in three colors—white, red, and rosé. Three factors affect the quality of wine: the grape, the climate the grapes are raised in, and the preparers of the wine. Some bar patrons will ask for a wine by the type of grape used in its making not by brand (such as Chardonnay, Shiraz, Muscat, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet, and others). Some patrons want wines from specific regions.
The human factor, or the special recipes and decisions of the winemakers, plays a big part in wine quality. Some patrons will ask for wines from specific brands or vineyards because they find that those wines offer the taste they desire.
Some patrons also want wines from specific years, as the climate or growing season of grapes may be more or less favorable from one year to the next. Many patrons will have no idea what sort of wine they wish to try and will turn to you or your servers for suggestions. Therefore, developing a wine list of wines that you are familiar with and can control and describe is an excellent idea. Some suggestions:
REDS
• Light-bodied is often served with red meat, roasted poultry, and oily fish (suggested: four).
• Medium-bodied is often served with game, veal, pork, and other red meats (suggested: four).
• Full-bodied is served with all red meats, lamb, and duck (suggested: four).
• Semi-sweet are served with dessert or after dinner, as they suppress appetite (suggested: two to three).
WHITES
After beer, white wines are most often ordered at bars, so keeping a good selection is well-advised:
• Dry light-bodied is often served with shellfish and seafood (suggested: two to four).
• Semi-sweet often accompanies a seafood meal (suggested: four).
• Full-bodied is often served with white meats and seafood (suggested: four).
• Medium-bodied is generally served with steak, roasted poultry, and fish such as salmon (suggested: two to four).
ROSÉ
• Dry light-bodied is generally served in place of dry white or red wines (suggested: one).
SPARKLING WINE
• Dry is served in place of dry white wines (suggested: one).
• Semi-sweet tends to be served in place of semi-sweet whites (suggested: one).
CHAMPAGNE
• Dry is served alone or with any food item (suggested: one).
• Extra Dry (Brut) is served alone or with any food item (suggested: one).
THE LANGUAGE OF WINE
Any bar manager who serves wine at his establishment quickly learns that wine comes with its own unique language. The successful bar manager will become familiar with this language. Being able to use the correct wine terms will make it easier to help customers who are confused about choices. Also, being able to use the language of wine will make the bar manager appear as an authoritative expert on the subject. There are a few basic wine terms that are useful for every bar manager and employee to know
|
Wine Terminology |
|
|
Term |
Definition |
|
Aroma |
Refers to the scent of a wine. Words such as “fruity” or “sweet” are often used to describe a wine’s aroma. The smell of a wine is also referred to as its “nose.” |
|
Light |
Refers to the wine’s body and/or alcoholic content. Light wines have lower alcohol content. |
|
Apertif |
Usually a wine or fortified wine — served before meals. |
|
Body |
Refers to the fullness of the wine, its substantiality, which is described as light, medium, or full. |
|
Color |
Refers to the color of a wine. It is very useful to tell a customer about subtle variations in color. Details such as whether a white wine is a deeper yellow or a more clear color can often help a customer order. |
|
Corked wine |
Refers to wine that has been ruined due to an insufficient or flawed cork. |
|
Dry |
Refers to the lack of sweetness in the wine. |
|
Semi-sweet |
Refers to the underlying sweetness of a wine. |
|
House wine |
Refers to wine that is served by the carafe or the glass. |
|
Jug wine |
Refers to wine packaged and sold in large bottles or jugs. It is often less expensive than other types of wine. |
|
Palate |
Refers to the taste of a wine. |
Ensure that every person on your staff can pronounce the different types of wines. Mispronunciation can affect the way customers see your bar. If a server cannot properly pronounce the name of a wine, it may confuse the customer. When hiring new staff, make sure that all new employees can pronounce the following most common wine types:
|
Wine PRONUNCIATION |
|
|
Term |
Correct Pronunciation |
|
Cabernet Sauvignon |
Cah-bear-nay So-veen-yohn |
|
Chardonnay |
Shar-done-nay |
|
Chenin Blanc |
Chen-nahn Blohn |
|
Fume Blanc |
Foo-may Blohn |
|
Johannisberg Riesling |
Yo-han-iss-bairg Reez-ling |
|
Merlot |
Mare-low |
|
Pinot noir |
Pea-no Nwar |
|
Sauvignon Blanc: |
So-veen-yohn Blohn |
You want to describe wine to customers in a way that is helpful and useful to them. There are several accepted terms to use when doing this:
|
Wine TASTE characteristics descriptions |
|
|
Term |
Definition |
|
Bouquet |
The complex fragrance that develops in a wine through fermentation and aging. |
|
Buttery |
Rich, creamy aroma and flavor. Some Chardonnays are described this way. |
|
Finish |
The flavor a wine leaves in the mouth after it is swallowed. You may talk about the main taste of the wine and then mention the finish for a more complete description of a wine. |
|
Legs |
When wine is swirled in its glass, it may leave a type of residue or some drops of wine on the sides of the glass. A wine with “good legs” leaves plenty of color on the sides of the glass as it is swirled. |
|
Mature |
Wine that is ready or aged enough to drink. |
|
Bright |
Fresh, fruity flavors. |
|
Chewy |
A wine that is heavy, tannic, and full-bodied. |
|
Crisp |
A wine that is noticeably acidic but pleasant. The acidity adds to the flavor. |
|
Dense |
A wine that is full-flavored or featuring a deep color. |
|
Earthy |
This word can suggest that a wine is clean and pleasant. In a negative sense, it can suggest a dirty wine that tastes funky. Because this word is vague, you may want to add other terms that clarify what you mean. |
|
Fat |
Full-bodied, high-alcohol. |
|
Forward |
Early maturing wine. |
|
Fragrant |
This word suggests that a wine has a floral aroma or bouquet. |
|
Jammy |
A sweet, concentrated fruit flavor. |
|
Peppery |
This word suggests a spicy, black pepper flavor. |
|
Robust |
Full-flavored, intense wine. |
|
Round |
Well-balanced, mellow, and full-bodied flavor. |
|
Soft |
Mellow and well balanced. |
|
Aggressive |
High tannins or acid taste. In many cases, this is a negative trait, but some customers prefer this taste. |
|
Flat |
This refers to an absence of flavor. Usually, flatness in wine is caused by lack of acidity. |
|
Metallic |
A wine with a tin-like flavor. |
|
Off |
A wine that is spoiled or faulty. It often clings to the teeth and may have an unpleasant vinegary or acidic taste. |
|
Sharp |
A wine with too much acid. |
The wine merchant or salesperson will point out which wines will fit into various classifications. It is not crucial that you can taste the difference between each, but it is very useful for the bar manager to understand the basics about wine. It is also important that each group of wine is represented in your final list. As your bar expands, you may want to upgrade your selection to appeal to customers who are more knowledgeable about wines and more likely to order wines by the glass.
Wine is an interesting and fun hobby to pursue. If you are interested in learning more about it, there are a number of excellent books covering all phases of the subject. There are also a number of classes that can be taken to help you understand the basics of wine. Even going on a wine-tasting tour will help improve your general understanding of wines. At the very least, you will want to invest in a wine guide, which you can keep at your bar. You can refer to this guide to help you understand which wines to buy and distinguish which wines seem to be preferred by your customers.
A wine list must include wines of different prices and of different origins for each classification. There should be at least one moderate and one expensive bottle for each classification.
Although they have become increasingly popular, never use a wine that has a screw top. There is actually nothing wrong with the screw top itself, but it usually indicates a very cheap bottle of wine. The cork is traditionally used to allow the wine to “breathe” and it also imparts a specific flavor to the wine.
At least one domestic and one imported wine should be listed for each classification. Imported wines are usually more expensive. Wines from several different countries should be listed to give the customer the impression of a well-rounded list. Each of the wine-producing countries specializes in a particular wine variety. Your wine merchant or salesperson can point them out to you.
In addition to offering bottled wines, most bars/restaurants also sell a house or bulk wine, usually Chablis, Rosé, and/or Burgundy. Bulk wine may be purchased in gallon jugs or five-gallon casks. The wine is then portioned into and served from carafes. All the major California wineries produce a bulk wine. Because the wine is produced by a well-known winery and the price is often the lowest on the list, bulk wine tends to be a very popular item. House wine also seems like a good choice for many patrons who know little about wines but still wish to order wine from the menu.
ORDERING WINE
The procedures for ordering wine are identical to those used in purchasing liquor. These orders may be prepared at the same time, since the liquor distributor will likely carry most of the wines desired.
The computation of the beginning wine inventory is identical to that of liquor and food. The beginning inventory is the total dollar amount of the item prior to opening day. Based on this starting figure, you will then be able to project monthly wine costs.
When ordering wine, consider bottle size as well as type. Most wine comes in standard 750-mL bottles. It is also possible to order splits of wine, which come in bottles about half the size of a regular bottle — useful if you are offering a wine by the glass. Ordering some splits helps ensure that you can always offer customers a fresh and delicious glass of wine. Wines also come in larger bottles; it is economical to select these larger bottles when ordering your house wine.
PRICING WINE
Assessing the selling price of wines is similar to determining bar and menu prices. The first step is to compute a total portion cost for each item. Because wine is sold in the same unit as it is purchased, the total cost is the wholesale price at which each bottle was purchased. Although there are many other costs involved in serving wine — such as labor, wine books, glasses, corkscrews, carafes, decanters, utilities, and so forth — the only direct cost is the price of the bottle of wine. To compute the portion cost of bulk wine, simply multiply the cost per ounce by the portion size (glass or carafe).
A fair and customary markup for wine is 1.5 to 2.5 times the bottle cost or, on average, 40 percent of cost of sales. Price out each bottle using the formula.
Many diners assume that the price of the wine they order has been outrageously inflated. One issue in pricing wine is that the customer knows the retail price. If the perception is that your wine pricing is too high, customers may view all of your prices in that manner. To avoid the stigma of being over-priced, lower the prices on these bottles and make up the difference on other varieties and bulk wine.
Careful examination of market trends and conditions will help you purchase wine at substantial discounts. You can then pass on these discounts to your customers, while still maintaining the desired profit margin.
Wine is a good profit item; it will average approximately the same cost of sales as food, but the labor and operating costs needed to present it are substantially less. Therefore, a good representative wine list and a big effort on management’s part to promote it is advocated.
CONTROLLING WINE
The manager must be present when a wine delivery is received to ensure it is accurate and accounted for. Wine must be locked away immediately after delivery. The manager must be the only person with the key to the storage area.
Wine should be issued by the bartender and restocked by the manager. Chilled wines may be stored in a cooler set at the proper temperature. Reds may be stored in a locked cabinet under the bar. Each serving area should be stocked with three of each type of white chilled wine and two types of each red.
When an order for wine is taken, the waiter goes to the bar and requests the bottle from the bartender. The bartender retrieves the bottle while the waiter fills out the ticket. The ticket should contain the following information: date, wine’s name, table number, and the waiter’s name. The bartender must check that information and price are correct before issuing the wine.
The hard paper part of the ticket remains with the bartender and will be used to verify the issuance. The carbon copy is attached to the customer’s bill, ensuring that the wine will be charged for. If for some reason the waiter does not enter the amount on the customer’s check, there will be a record of the bottle ordered from the bar.
The cashier will total the bill, ensuring that the price entered is correct. At the end of his shift, the bartender will deposit the ticket receipts with the liquor breakage form in a place designated by the manager.
The following morning, the bookkeeper will prepare and present to the manager an itemized list of the bottles sold, verified by the cashier. This list must match the receipts left by the bartender.
As the liquor is being restocked, the manager should also restock the wine used. After restocking is completed, there should be three chilled whites and two reds for every variety. Should this count not reconcile, recheck the itemization and the bartender’s receipts. If everything reconciles, consider the possibility of theft.
Bulk wine may be issued by the gallon and portioned into carafes. The bartender will list the number of carafes prepared at the beginning of the shift and the number left at the end. This information may be recorded on the Liquor Used and Restocked Form. The carafes may then be treated as though they were full bottles.
For more information about bar and wine service, I would recommend the following books from Atlantic Publishing (www.atlantic-pub.com):
• The Professional Bar & Beverage Manager’s Handbook: How to Open and Operate a Financially Successful Bar, Tavern, and Nightclub: With Companion CD-ROM (Item # PBB-01).
• The Professional Bartender’s Handbook: A Recipe for Every Drink Known — Including Tricks and Games to Impress Your Guests (Item # PBH-01).
• The Responsible Serving of Alcoholic Beverages: A Complete Staff Training Course for Bars, Restaurants, and Caterers: With Companion CD-ROM (Item # RSA-01).
• The Food Service Professional Guide To Controlling Liquor, Wine, & Beverage Costs (Item # FS8-01).
• The Food Service Professional Guide To Bar & Beverage Operation: Ensuring Success & Maximum Profit (Item # FS11-01).
Continually remind your servers on how to properly serve wine. The following posters on wine service is part of a five-part wine poster series from Atlantic Publishing. They are full-color and laminated to reduce wear and tear. They are 11” x 17” and all five posters can be purchased for $39.95 (Item # WPS-PS). They can also be ordered individually for $9.95 each. To order, call 800-814-1132 or visit www.atlantic-pub.com.
