Take the eggs out of the fridge about 2 hours in advance to prevent them from cracking when the water boils. Or pierce the rounded end of the shell with a pin, to allow air to escape during cooking. Use a pan large enough for all the eggs to lie comfortably. If they knock each other during cooking, the shells may crack and some white will escape.
Soft-boiled eggs Put the eggs in a saucepan, cover generously with cold water and set over a medium heat. As soon as the water comes to the boil, count up to 60 seconds for a medium egg; the egg white will be lightly set.
If you prefer the white slightly firmer but the yolk still runny, cook the egg for another 30 seconds.
For an even firmer white with the yolk just beginning to set, allow 30 seconds more (1½ minutes in total). As soon as the eggs are boiled to your liking, lift them out of the water or they will continue to cook. Serve in egg cups as soon as possible. Take off the tops by tapping the pointed end with a sharp knife.
Mollet eggs Cook as for soft-boiled eggs, but allow only 3 minutes once the water starts simmering. As soon as the water boils, reduce the heat, otherwise if the eggs cook in fast-boiling water the whites will become rubbery. As soon as the eggs are cooked, use a slotted spoon to transfer them to a bowl of very cold water with some ice cubes. Leave to cool for about 10 minutes, then tap the shells with back of a spoon to crack them. To shell the eggs, start at the rounded end where the little air sac is, and peel off the shells under a trickle of cold running water. The water will infiltrate between the solid egg white and the membrane that lines the shell, making it easier to peel the egg without damaging it.
Mollet eggs (soft boiled) Place an egg weighing 55–60g (2oz) into a waterbath or saucepan, with water generously to cover that is set to a constant 62ºC/144ºF, for 1 hour. The same results can be attained by placing the egg on a baking tray in an oven set at 62ºC/ 144ºF, for 1 hour. Either chill for later reheating or gently peel by cracking the egg onto the reverse of a slotted spoon, leaving their shape intact. Season and serve either warm or cold, as desired. The egg white will be almost translucent and soft to eat. The egg yolk will be slightly runny and almost ‘confit’ in taste and texture.
Hard-boiled eggs Boil exactly as for mollet eggs, but cook for 6 minutes after the water starts simmering.
