I respect the egg for its genius in all forms of cooking. In my view, it is an undervalued food, invariably overshadowed by expensive, luxury ingredients. So, I have decided that it is time for me to write a book about this most fragile and defenceless of all foods, to bestow the egg with the honour it deserves.
Eggs have been much maligned over the past two decades, variously branded high in cholesterol, difficult to digest, carriers of salmonella and the like. But, in reality, they are highly nutritious – and simple and quick to cook. An egg is a treasure chest of substances that are essential for a balanced diet – rich in proteins, lipids, vitamins and minerals, including iron and zinc. It provides first-class protein, is low in sodium, and a medium egg contains only 78 calories. Ideal for breakfast, lunch, tea, dinner and supper, eggs are also great in sandwiches, an ideal picnic food, and they are essential in the preparation of so many different desserts, cakes and sauces.
Eggs have always fascinated me. I love their oval, sometimes elongated shape, the purity of their lines and the tint of their shells – ranging from natural white to pale nut brown. When I hold an egg in my hand, I feel that it represents the image of the universe, and it awakens and increases my respect for life.
At the age of barely three, I would rush outside whenever I heard Julie, our family hen, cackling to announce that she was about to lay. I would gently collect the still warm new-laid egg and hurry to the kitchen with it. My mother collected the eggs in a large bowl, which would be kept full during the summer; in winter Julie laid only one or two eggs a week – but we loved her just the same.
Like bread, eggs are one of life’s most basic and indispensable foods. I first started to discover their professional value when I began my pâtisserie apprenticeship at the age of fourteen. Since then, eggs have become my most faithful kitchen companions and they hold no secrets for me. In this book, I share their secrets with you, offering over 130 recipes and ideas for using eggs. Some are classic, others more modern and creative, but all reflect my personal style.