Restaurants
We have used the following symbols to give an idea of the price for a three-course meal for one, excluding wine:
€€€€€ over Kč1,000 €€€€Kč700–1000 €€€Kč500–700
€€ Kč300–500 € under Kč300
Old Town and New Town
Bellevue €€€€€ Smetanovo nábřeží 18, tel: 222 221 443, www.bellevuerestaurant.cz. True to its name, the elegant Bellevue delivers a remarkable view of the Vltava River and Prague Castle from the small square to the south of the Charles Bridge. It serves interesting modern European food. Dishes such as roast veal loin with mushroom sauce are backed up by equally memorable desserts. It also has vegetarian menu. Open daily noon–3pm and 5.30pm–11pm.
Chez Marcel €€ Haštalská 12, tel: 222 315 676, www.chezmarcel.cz. Very French, even down to the occasionally grumpy service, and good value, this bistro opposite St Agnes’s Convent has all the expected dishes (omelettes, steak and salads), plus French wines by the glass. Tasty, simple food of the sort that is typical in France. No credit cards. Open daily 11.30am–11pm.
Cicala €€€ Žitná 43, tel: 222 210 375, www.trattoria.cz. Set in a basement off a busy street that runs east from the top end of Charles Square, Trattoria Cicala serves some of the most authentic, and tastiest, Italian food in the city. The menu offers antipasti, pasta and meat dishes, plus daily specials. Open Mon–Sat 11.30am–10 pm.
CottoCrudo €€€€€ Four Seasons Hotel, Veleslavínova 1098/2a, tel: 221 426 880, www.cottocrudo.cz. Since replacing Allegro (the first Michelin-starred restaurant in post-Communist Eastern Europe) CottoCrudo has lived up to expectations. Set in a wonderful location overlooking the river, not far from the eastern end of the Charles Bridge, chef Luca de Astis offers a delicious array of Italian and Mediterranean dishes. Open daily 7am–11pm.
Estella €€ Opatovická 17, tel: 777 431 344. This excellent vegetarian restaurant serves tasty and inventive dishes, many cooked with organic ingredients. On offer are such classics as vegetarian goulash of seitan or veggie burgers. The Czech wines and beers are worth a try, as are the excellent teas and desserts. Open Mon–Fri 11.30am–3.30pm and 5.30–10.30pm, Sat 11.30am–10.30pm. Cash only.
Ginger & Fred €€€€€ Tančící dům, Jiráskovo náměstí 6, tel: 221 984 160, www.ginger-fred-restaurant.cz. Located on the top floor of one of Prague’s most famous modern landmarks, Frank Gehry’s ‘dancing’ or ‘Fred and Ginger’ building – so-called because of its flowing forms – offers sweeping views of the city from both the inside dining room and the rooftop terrace. The menu of international cuisine changes with the seasons. Open daily noon–10.30pm.
Kolkovna Celnice €€ V Celnice 4, tel: 224 212 240, www.kolkovna.cz. Just off náměstí Republiky, this Pilsner Urquell-owned beer hall serves up the usual tasty diet of excellent beer and hearty Bohemian food. This one has the advantage of being on top of one of Prague’s best clubs, where you can dance off the dumplings. Open daily 11am–midnight.
Country Life €–€€ Melantrichova 15, tel: 224 213 366, www.countrylife.cz. Tucked away in a small street leading south off Old Town Square, this self-service vegetarian eatery is one of the few places in the city that also offers vegan dishes. Non-smoking dining room. Open Mon−Thu 10.30am–7.30pm, Fri 10.30am–6pm, Sun noon–6pm. Cash only.
King Solomon €€€€€ Široká 7/37, tel: 224 818 752, www.kosher.cz. Fittingly right in the middle of the Jewish Quarter is the only strictly kosher restaurant in Prague with Hebrew-speaking staff. Among the classic dishes of Central European Jewish cooking are chicken soup, gefilte fish, carp with prunes and duckling drumsticks with schollet and sautéed cabbage. Kosher wines are imported from Israel, Hungary and France, as well as offering some from the Czech Republic. It is possible to arrange Shabbat meals beforehand and to have them delivered to your hotel. Open Sun–Thu noon–11pm, Fri and Sat lunch and dinner by reservation only.
Klub Architektů € Betlémské náměstí 169/5A, tel: 224 248 878, www.klubarchitektu.com. Situated just opposite the Bethlehem Church and under an architecture bookshop, this restaurant is a haven of peace. Along with meaty options, there are lots of vegetarian offerings: salads, soups and more exotic dishes, served up in a minimalist, bare-walled cellar. Friendly staff and low prices add to its allure, as does the no-smoking area. Open daily 11.30am–midnight.
Kogo €€€€ Na Příkopě 22, Prague 1, tel: 221 451 259, www.kogo.cz. A large, bustling, and very popular Mediterranean-style eatery in the contemporary Slovanský Dům arcade on Prague’s main shopping street, with a vast range of fish, meat, and pasta dishes. Open daily 11am–11pm.
Kogo Havelská €€€–€€€€ Havelská 499/27, Prague 1, tel: 224 210 259, www.kogo.cz. A relaxed but upmarket Italian restaurant and pizzeria located not far from Staroměstské náměstí. It offers the full range of Italian cuisine, with enticing starters and desserts. Breakfast menu also available. The booking is recommended. Open Mon–Fri 8am–11pm, Sat and Sun 9am−11pm.
Kolkovna €€ V Kolkovně 8, Prague 1, tel: 224 819 701, www.vkolkovne.cz. Not far from the Spanish Synagogue and on two levels, with gleaming brewery utensils on the ground floor and a cosy basement, this traditional Czech pub offers a contemporary take on Bohemian dishes such as duck and dumplings, accompanied of course by the incomparable brew from Pilsen. The portions are large, hearty and reasonably priced. Open daily 11am–midnight.
Lokal €€ Dlouhá 33, tel: 222 316 265, www.ambi.cz. Set in the heart of the Old Town, this friendly beer hall serves traditional, home-made Czech fare made from fresh ingredients and at reasonable prices. You can also learn how to draw beer form the bartenders, the courses are held in Czech and English. Open Mon–Fri 11am–1am, Sat noon–1am, Sun noon–11pm.
Mlynec €€€€ Novotného lávka 9, tel: 227 000 777, www.mlynec.cz. In a beautiful location by the river, with views of the Charles Bridge. The degustation menu featuring dishes such as coquilles St-Jacques, oxtail consommé and saddle of deer is well worth trying. Open daily noon–3pm and 5.30–11pm.
Nostress €€€ Dušní 10, tel: 222 317 007, www.nostress.cz. Right by the Spanish Synagogue, this stylish café-restaurant with a contemporary photography gallery attached is good for its reasonably-priced lunch menu (Kč450). Dinner, however, is much more expensive. The well-executed cooking is generally of the fusion variety. Open daily 10am–midnight.
Renommé €€€€ Na struze 1, tel: 224 934 109, www.renomme.cz. A small family restaurant offering French food, confit of duck with cumin, foie gras and good salads. It’s also worth trying the rabbit dishes. Vanilla crême brulée and home-made profiteroles filled with ice cream are also highly recommended. Booking is advised. Open daily 11am–11pm.
La Veranda €€€€ Elišky Krásnohorské 2, Prague 1, tel: 224 814 733, www.laveranda.cz. A gourmet restaurant near the Spanish Synagogue, La Veranda is a light, stylish venue filled with flowers. It specialises in delicate fish dishes but has good meat and vegetarian options too. Cooking styles range from Mediterranean to pan-Asian. Excellent service and above average prices, but certainly worth the splurge. Open Mon–Sat noon–midnight.
Rybí Trh €€€€€ Týn 638/5, tel: 602 295 911, www.rybitrh.cz. In the charming surroundings of the cobbled Týn Court, behind the Týn Church, the Fish Market Restaurant doesn’t just serve fish, but a variety of meat and vegetarian dishes as well. Each month there is a different culinary theme, taking in Spanish, French, Italian and other world cuisines. An outdoor terrace makes a pretty setting for summertime dining. Open daily 11am–midnight.
U Bílé Krávy €€€ Rubešova 10, tel: 224 239 570, www.bilakrava.cz. On a street tucked behind the National Museum, the ‘White Cow’ owes its name to the occupation of its owner, who doubles as a cattle farmer in Burgundy, France. Most of the dishes use meat from his herd, flown directly into Prague, but a variety of seafood and lamb dishes also have their place on the menu. A wood-beamed, cottage-like interior complements an ambitious menu that ranges from escargots in red wine to bœuf bourguignon. Open Mon–Fri 11.30am–11pm, Sat 5–11pm.
Universal €€ V Jirchářích 6, Prague 1, tel: 224 934 416, www.universalrestaurant.cz. About 100 metres (328ft) behind the National Theatre is one of the best-value places in town, serving tasty main courses with a French twist. Meal-sized salads and desserts are as good as you’ll find anywhere. A good daily menu at unbelievably reasonable prices. Advance reservations are advisable for peak hours. Open daily 11.30am–1am.
Castle and Lesser Quarter
Café Savoy €–€€€ Vítězná 5, tel: 257 311 562, www.ambi.cz. This café in the south corner of the Lesser Quarter, just by the western end of the Legií Bridge, is a good place to stop for refreshment. Choose between excellent French-inspired gourmet food, the café menu or the home-made cakes underneath a beautifully restored neo-Renaissance ceiling. Open Mon–Fri 8am–11.30pm, Sat–Sun 9am–11.30pm.
Coda €€€€ Tržiště 9, tel: 225 334 761, www.codarestaurant.cz. Set in the Aria Hotel this smart restaurant has a rooftop terrace offering spectacular views of the Lesser Town and the castle. Beautiful interiors were designed by two Italian architects Rocco Magnoli and Lorenzo Carmellini. It has a good degustation menu of Czech cuisine with traditional kulajda soup, roasted duck and plum ravioli, prepared by the Czech chef David Šašek. Open Mon–Sun 7am–11.30pm, live piano Tue–Sat 7.30–10.30pm.
Cukrkavalimonáda €–€€ Lázeňská 7, tel: 257 225 396. On a little square just to the south of Mostecká, ‘Sugar-coffee-lemonade’ is a beautifully styled café offering variations around scrambled eggs for breakfast, then pastas, frittatas, pancakes and sandwiches throughout the day, and then Mediterranean-style meals in the early evening. Try the home-made pastries and cakes. Open daily 9am–7pm.
Gitanes €€ Tržiště 7, tel: 257 530 163, www.gitanes.cz. A quirky and comfortable Bosnian/Serbian/Montenegran restaurant a stone’s throw from Malostranské Square. Prettily painted floral ceiling and furnishings, plus a cosy hideaway for two behind a curtain, put you in the right mood. The good Balkan dishes, such as stuffed peppers, home-made lamb sausages and grilled mushrooms, and an eclectic and interesting wine list mean this place is well worth a visit. Open daily noon–midnight.
Kampa Park €€€€€ Na Kampě 8b, tel: 257 532 685, www.kampagroup.com. This well established Czech restaurant is located on Kampa Island near Charles Bridge and is popular not just because of its magnificent setting. Its creative international fare, including mouth-watering fish and seafood are also highly recommended. The extensive wine list features over 150 wines. The riverside terrace is particularly attractive. Open daily 11.30am–1am.
Pálffy Palác €€€€–€€€€€ Valdštejnská 14, Prague 1, tel: 257 530 522, www.palffy.cz. Opposite the Waldstein Palace and in operation since the 17th century, this elegant, Baroque restaurant has catered for everyone from diplomats to politicians in its time. An outdoor terrace leads out to breathtaking views of the castle and surrounding gardens. The restaurant’s classy continental/French menu features duck breast with preserved oranges, grilled tiger prawns and a selection of fish dishes. Open daily 11am–11pm.
U Malířů €€€€€ Maltézské náměstí 11, tel: 257 530 318, www.umaliru.cz. This restaurant is one the most expensive in Prague, found on a quiet square in the Lesser Quarter, just to the east of Karmelitská. French haute cuisine is served in a beautiful 15th-century dining room complete with an elaborately decorated ceiling, and a tiny outdoor terrace completes the picture. Absolutely perfect for that special occasion. Open noon–11pm.
U Modré Kachnicky €€€ Nebovidská 460/6, tel: 257 320 308, www.umodrekachnicky.cz. ‘At the Blue Duckling’ is a popular restaurant near Maltézské náměstí, which features Art Nouveau images on the walls and old-fashioned decor, with lots of dark wood and overstuffed chairs. Traditional Czech cuisine is featured on the menu, as is plenty of game and fish. Open daily noon–4pm, 6.30pm–midnight.
Olympia €€ Vítězná 7, tel: 251 511 080, www.kolkovna.cz. Close to the Café Savoy, just by the western end of the Legií Bridge, a restaurant has operated out of this building almost since it opened in 1903. Now, as part of the Pilsner Urquell stable, the emphasis is on comforting Czech butchery, with goose, duck, sausages, pork hocks and lamb knuckles. The cooking is highly creditable and very good value for money. Open daily 11am–midnight.
Terasa U Zlate Studne €€€€€ U Zlaté studně 166/4, tel: 257 533 322, www.terasauzlatestudne.cz. Located on the roof of the Golden Well hotel, just a stone’s throw from Lesser Town square, this elegant restaurant offers panoramic views of Vltava River and the spires of the Old Town and is ideal for a romantic dinner. The acclaimed chef Pavel Sapic prepares a wonderful range of international dishes. There is a good list of international and Czech wines. Open daily 7am–11pm (terrace from 11am).
U Patrona €€€€ Dražického náměstí 4, Prague 1, tel: 257 530 725, www.upatrona.cz. These little elegant dining rooms are a good place in which to try well-prepared Bohemian specialities. They include a tasty game consommé and excellent roast goose with red cabbage. All helped along by some very smooth service. Open daily 10am–midnight.