Prague is probably one of the most appealing cities to visit in the world. Almost every corner reveals an architectural treasure dating from the 13th century to the present day, and behind the facades of an array of palaces are interiors of great splendour filled with impressive art collections. You can walk across the heart of the city in an hour through a maze of traffic-free streets; around the edge of the densely built-up historic city are extensive green spaces where you can sit and enjoy the sunshine and birdsong.
Aerial view of the Old Town
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This guide divides Prague into its settlements of Hradčany (the Castle District), the Lesser Quarter (Malá Strana), the Old Town (Staré Město) and the New Town (Nové Město). The major historical and architectural attractions of each are highlighted, as well as Prague’s famous river crossing, the Charles Bridge, linking the city across the Vltava. The city’s suburbs also contain sights worthy of a visit. Finally, there is a selection of day trips to nearby towns and castles.
Hradčany (The Castle District)
On catching your first sight of Prague Castle from across the Vltava River you will be taken aback by its vast size. Not for the rulers of Bohemia a simple stone stronghold: rather, a citadel as big as a small town, its numerous fine buildings an imposing reminder of the power of royalty through the centuries. From its beginnings some 1,000 years ago, it developed to perform important ceremonial functions in addition to its protective ones. In recent times, part of the castle was renovated to house the office of the president of the Czech Republic.
The site for the castle was picked because of its ridge-top position, which affords excellent views of the town and river valley below. Today’s visitors are faced with a choice of three entrances, of which the ceremonial gate at the west side is the starting point of most guided tours. From here you will be walking downhill towards the steps on the east side.
Hradčany Square
Before entering the castle take a look around Hradčany Square 1 [map] (Hradčanské náměstí), which forms an irregular open space outside the gates. Several important grand residences were built here in close proximity to the seat of power. In a small grassy area at the centre of the square stands a plague column, one of many erected by grateful survivors after an outbreak of the disease in the 18th century.
On the west side of the square are the Tuscan Palace (Toskánsky palác), a late 17th-century Baroque residence thought to have been designed by French architect Jean-Baptiste Mathey, and its neighbour, the Martinic Palace (Martinický palác), in earlier Renaissance style. The Tuscan Palace now belongs to the Foreign Ministry, while renovations to the Martinic Palace (www.martinickypalac.cz) revealed sgraffito (patterns incised on a flat wall of plaster to create a three-dimensional effect of shade and depth) depicting biblical scenes.
Across the park, Schwarzenberg Palace 2 [map] (Schwarzenberský palác) is perhaps the most distinctive building on the square. Each facade is covered with brick-like sgraffito, its purpose being to link the disparate architectural styles of the palace into a coherent whole. The palace was built for the Lobkowicz family by the Italian architect Agostini Galli in the mid-1500s, which lent it far more of a Florentine influence than other buildings of the time. The palace is now home to the National Gallery’s superb collection of Baroque Art in Bohemia (Hradčanské náměstí 2; www.ngprague.cz; Tue–Sun 10am–6pm), which features works by two of the most important Czech painters of the era, Petr Brandl (1668–1735) and Jan Kupecký (1667–1740). Next to it stands the Salm Palace (details as above) which houses the National Gallery’s collection of 19th-century Art from Neo-Classicism to Romanticism, including landscapes by Josef Navrátil (1798–1865), August Piepenhagen (1791–1868) and Antonín Mánes (1784–1843).
The most ornate building on the square is the Archbishop’s Palace (Arcibiskupský palác) sitting just next to the castle entrance. The house became the Archbishop’s Palace after the Counter-Reformation in 1562 and its position was an indication of the power of the Catholic Church and its influence on the Habsburg monarchy. The facade was redesigned in the 1760s in rococo style.
The National Gallery of European Art at the Sternberg Palace
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Next door to the palace is another of the major art galleries of Prague. A cobbled alleyway leads to Sternberg Palace 3 [map] (Šternberský palác, Hradčanské náměstí 15; www.ngprague.cz; Tue–Sun 10am–6pm), home of Franz Sternberg who was a great patron of the arts during the late 18th century. The handsome Baroque building now houses the Czech Republic’s National Gallery of European Art (Národní galerie). Its fine body of old masters dating from the 14th to the 18th century serves as a reminder that the Habsburg dynasty was the most powerful of its time, ruling over its vast empire, in which Prague was one of the leading cities. Their collection incorporates work by the finest artists of their respective eras. Flemish and Dutch art features particularly strongly with works by the Brueghel dynasty, along with Peter Paul Rubens, Rembrandt and Frans Hals. Italian artists are represented by a wealth of 14th- and 15th-century decorative pieces from churches in Tuscany. Among the later paintings, works by Tintoretto and El Greco stand out. Perhaps the most noted painting in the collection is to be found in the Austrian and German section. Along with works by Hans Holbein and his son hangs the Feast of the Rose Garlands by Albrecht Dürer, with two Habsburg family members depicted on the canvas.
Prague Castle
Building work on the Castle 4 [map] (Pražský hrad; www.hrad.cz) was begun in the 9th century. By the beginning of the 14th century it housed the royal palace, churches and a monastery. Refurbished during the reign of Charles IV, it was ravaged by fire in 1541 and most of the buildings were reconstructed in Renaissance style. The castle eventually became a backwater when the Habsburgs chose Vienna as their permanent base, but in the mid-18th century it was given its present unified appearance by Empress Maria Theresa and her Italian architect Nicola Pacassi. After Czechoslovak independence in 1918, it became the seat of the country’s president, and was thoroughly renovated by the Slovene architect Josep Plečnik. Surrounding the walls are many gardens offering a peaceful retreat from the sometimes crowded rooms and galleries within.
A benign spectre
Legend has it that the ghost of a large black dog haunts the Hradčanské náměstí entrance to Prague Castle. Between 11pm and midnight it appears, and far from being aggressive, it accompanies passers-by as far as the Loreto before vanishing into thin air.
Enter the castle proper through the ornate gates crowned with heroic statues of fighting giants. Sombre, uniformed guardsmen maintain a silent watch as you pass through. From this first courtyard – added in the 18th century – the Matthias Gate A [map] (Matyášova brána), the entranceway dating from 1614 that once formed a triumphal arch over moats (now filled in) leads to the second courtyard. Immediately ahead is the entrance to the Holy Cross Chapel (kaple svatého Kříže), built by Anselmo Lurago in 1753, which houses a display of the cathedral’s numerous national treasures and the remains of some of the country’s most revered individuals (Apr–Oct daily 10am–6pm, Nov–Mar 10am–5pm).
Housed on the north side of this courtyard, in what were once the castle stables, is the Picture Gallery of Prague Castle B [map] (Obrazárna Pražského hradu; www.hrad.cz; daily Apr–Oct 9am–5pm, Nov–Mar 9am–4pm). The gallery displays works mainly collected by Rudolf II during his reign (1583–1612). Much of the collection of this passionate man of the arts was taken to Vienna in the years after his reign or lost to the Swedish forces who took it as booty in 1648. Still, the gallery boasts some superb works by Tintoretto, Veronese and Rubens. Here visitors can also enter the north gardens through an archway.
The Golden Portal, once the main entrance to the cathedral
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Fabulous mosaic
Of particular note over the triple-arched arcade of the Golden Portal is the mosaic of the Last Judgement, created by Venetian artists in 1370. It is composed of glass, pieces of quartz and other natural stones, as well as sheets of gold leaf slipped between two stones for a gilded effect. The Virgin Mary, John the Baptist, the Apostles, Charles IV and his wife Elizabeth of Pomerania are all represented, not forgetting the six patron saints of Bohemia.
St Vitus Cathedral
A narrow passage leads to the third courtyard of the castle and a sudden view of the immense facade of St Vitus Cathedral C [map] (katedrála svatého Víta; www.katedralasvatehovita.cz; Apr–Oct Mon–Sat 9am–5pm, Sun noon–5pm, Nov–Mar Mon–Sat 9am–4pm, Sun noon–4pm; free except crypt and chancel), looming up just a few steps away. The towers and spires dwarf the surrounding buildings, at first glance altering one’s perception of scale.
The first church on this hallowed ground was built in the 10th century by Prince Wenceslas, who was interred in the rotunda after his premature death. The present edifice was begun in 1344 on the occasion of Prague being declared an archbishopric. Charles IV decided that the new cathedral should be in the style of the great religious buildings of France and invited Matthew of Arras to design and build it. After Matthew’s death, the work was continued by Peter Parler, a German architect, then by his two sons. Work was disrupted during the Hussite uprisings and was intermittent through the following centuries, in fact the whole building was not regarded as complete until 1929. The main entrance is now through the west doorway, but until the 19th century it was the south door – or Golden Portal – that provided entry. The porch of the latter doorway is highly decorated and crowned with an ornate mosaic of the Last Judgement. To the left, a Gothic window is filled with gold filigree work.
Stained-glass window by Alfons Mucha in the cathedral (detail)
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Once visitors have entered the cathedral, its gigantic proportions are immediately apparent. There are over 18 separate chapels lining the walls. The 19th- and 20th-century elements of the cathedral (near the main entrance) contains a chapel with stained glass by Alfons Mucha, greatly admired for his Art Nouveau artwork. However, the eye is automatically drawn down the core of the building to the magnificent chancel built by Parler in the 1370s. The towering vaults, decorated with delicate tracery, are a high point in Gothic architectural achievement. These are underpinned by elaborate stained-glass windows.
Several of the chapels in this area of the cathedral deserve further examination but none more so than Wenceslas Chapel (kaple svatého Václava), dedicated to Saint Wenceslas or the Good King Wenceslas of the Christmas carol as he is more commonly known. Parler created a wonderful Gothic room to house the tomb of the prince, on the same spot as it had been in the previous Romanesque rotunda. The walls are decorated with precious stones and gold leaf interspersed with several ornate frescoes illustrating scenes from the life of the saint. Above the chapel is a small room containing the coronation jewels. Seven separate keys are needed to unlock the door to the chamber and the jewels remain out of view except for on certain state occasions.
The silver tomb of John of Nepomuk
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Next to the Wenceslas Chapel are stairs leading to the crypt where you can see the walls of earlier religious structures. This room holds the remains of Charles IV and members of his family, along with the tomb of Rudolf II. Above the crypt, in the main level of the cathedral, several other noteworthy rulers are interred: Ferdinand I lies in a large white marble tomb with his wife, and son Maximilian; and an ornate silver tomb holds the remains of Jan of Nepomuk, who was thrown from Charles Bridge in 1393 and declared a saint in the early days of the Counter-Reformation.
To the north of the cathedral you will find the Mihulka Powder Tower (Prašná věž), part of the 15th-century defensive walls and later used as a foundry and gunpowder workshop. During the reign of Rupert II rumours abounded that experiments in alchemy were being conducted here. It now contains an exhibition dedicated to the history of castle guards.
Vladislav Hall
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The Royal Palace
The third courtyard of the castle opens out to the south of the cathedral. Walk past the old chapterhouse where you will find a heroic statue of St George. On the east side of the courtyard is the entrance to the Old Royal Palace D [map] (Starý královský palác; www.hrad.cz; daily 9am–5pm), home to Bohemian rulers from the 11th century till the Habsburg takeover. Its somewhat modest facade conceals a fascinating building whose architectural style spans several centuries. The Romanesque early palace forms the foundations of the present structure, built during the last years of Přemyslid rule. Charles IV later enlarged the palace but it was Vladislav Jagiello in the late 1400s who created the opulent throne chamber. When it was completed in 1502, Vladislav Hall (Vladislavský sál) was the largest unsupported secular hall in the world and today its wide expanse and roof supported by ribbed vaults is one of Prague’s highlights.
In the 17th century the hall was used as a meeting place, but in earlier times royal tournaments were held there with competitions in horsemanship. The horses were ridden up a wide, gently sloping staircase to the hall, which is now used by the many groups who tour the palace. Serious business went on in the two rooms leading off Vladislav Hall. The Bohemian Chancellery (Česká kancelář) was used for Bohemian government business, and it was from this room that the two imperial councillors and their clerk were defenestrated in 1618, precipitating the Thirty Years’ War. The Diet Hall (Stará sněmovna) was the medieval parliament room. It was badly damaged in the fire of 1541 and rebuilt in the style of the time.
The Old Royal Palace also houses the Story of Prague Castle exhibition, which uses castle models, films and artefacts in an innovative way to tell the long and fascinating history of Prague Castle.
St George’s Basilica
From the Royal Palace, walk east to another open square: St George’s (náměstí U svatého Jiři). On the corner is the deep-red Baroque facade of St George’s Basilica E [map] (Bazilika svátého Jiří; daily Apr−Oct 9am–5pm, Nov−Mar 9am−4pm), founded in the early 9th century and said to be the oldest surviving church in Prague. The interior is austere in true Romanesque style, although it has been extensively restored over the centuries, with the scant remains of original ceiling frescos. The basilica is the resting place of Queen Ludmila, patron saint of Bohemia, and other members of the Přemyslid dynasty.
At the end of the 9th century St George’s Convent (klášter svatého Jiří) was established next to the basilica. The religious sanctuary was rebuilt many times over the centuries before finally being dissolved in 1782.
The colourful 16th-century cottages of Golden Lane
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The Eastern Sector of the Castle
From the convent it is only a short walk to the eastern sector of the castle. Golden Lane F [map] (Zlatá ulička; daily Apr−Oct 9am–5pm, Nov−Mar 9am−4pm; entrance fee also covers Dalibor Tower) nestles against the northern ramparts of the castle, lined with a wonderful array of old cottages dating from the 16th century. They were first occupied by archers conscripted to defend the castle and later by craftsmen, goldsmiths included, to whom the street owes its name. Some said that the street was even a dwelling place for alchemists. By the beginning of the 20th century, it was an enclave for the poor. The writer Franz Kafka lived here in 1916 with his sister. Today the cottages have been restored and are home to souvenir shops. Just watch your head as you enter, as the lintels are extremely low.
Three attractions fill the route from Golden Lane to the east gate. Lobkowicz Palace G [map] (Lobkovický palác; www.lobkowiczevents.cz; daily 10am–6pm), built in the aftermath of the 1541 fire, houses many of the star items from the outstanding collections of the princely Lobkowicz family. Among them are paintings by Canaletto and Velázquez as well as Haymaking by Pieter Brueghel, the pride of the National Gallery before its restitution to its original owners. There are also original scores by Mozart and Beethoven, as well as a large display of armour.
Torture chamber in the Dalibor Tower
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Across the street, and reached from Golden Lane, are the Black Tower (Černá věž), whose origins reach back to the 12th century, and Dalibor Tower H [map] (Daliborka), which was used as a prison and named after its first prisoner, a young knight whose plight was also the inspiration for an opera by Czech composer Bedřich Smetana.
Beyond the Black Tower steps lead down to Malostranská Metro station, while to the right is the entrance to the Gardens on the Ramparts (daily Apr and Oct 10am–6pm, May and Sept until 7pm, June–July until 9pm, Aug until 8pm), laid out along the castle’s southern ramparts. From here it is possible to descend the cliff-like slope to the Lesser Quarter through Palace Gardens below Prague Castle (www.palacove-zahrady.cz), a series of beautifully restored terraced gardens.
Mute spring
The Singing Fountain, decorated with flowers, animals, Greek gods and a set of bagpipes, is by the Italian sculptor Francesco Terzio. Restoration work has unfortunately meant that the hollow metal of the basin no longer produces music.
The area of Hradčany, although dominated by the castle, offers other attractions to explore. To the north, beyond the deep Stag Moat stands the Belvedere (Belvedér), built in the 16th century by Ferdinand I and considered to be the very first Italian Renaissance building north of the Alps. It was used as a summerhouse, and the surrounding Royal Gardens (daily, same hours as rampart gardens) must have been a welcome area of relaxation for court members. They would have been greatly amused by the Singing Fountain, erected in 1568, whose bronze bowls would resonate when hit by the jets of water.
The baroque church of the Loreto
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The Loreto
Walking west, away from the castle entrance on Hradčany Square, you will arrive at another open square, Loretánské náměstí. Here you will discover the beautifully ornate Baroque facade of the Loreto 5 [map] (Loreta; www.loreta.cz; Nov–Mar Mon–Sun 9.30am–12.15pm and 1–4pm, Apr–Oct until 5pm), one of Bohemia’s most important centres of Christian pilgrimage.
Its origins date back to the Counter-Reformation of the 1620s when, in order to increase faith in the Catholic religion, the Habsburgs built replicas of the sacred Santa Casa of Loreto in Italy all across their land. It was said that this original Santa Casa (Holy House and home of the Virgin Mary) had been carried by holy men – or transported by angels – from Nazareth when Islam had overrun the Holy Land at the turn of the first millennium.
However, Prague’s Santa Casa soon developed into far more than a simple shrine. By 1661 it was surrounded by handsome cloisters, to be followed by Baroque decoration and a distinctive bell tower created by Christoph and Kilián Ignác Dientzenhofer (father and son), two of the most skilled architects of their time. Gifts poured in from around the kingdom, and the treasury of the Loreto displays its amazing wealth, including a gold-plated and diamond-encrusted monstrance dating from 1699.
Across the square from the Loreto is the expansive facade of Černín Palace (Černínský palác), which occupies the entire western flank. Built for the Černíns, an influential diplomatic family in the 17th century, the palace was huge, measuring an astounding 150m (500ft) in length. Its size was even said to have displeased Leopold I who felt that it rivalled the Royal Palace in splendour. Today it houses the Czech Foreign Ministry, and it was from one of these windows that Jan Masaryk fell to his death in 1948 as the communists rose to power.
North of the square lies one of the prettiest, most unspoiled districts in Prague. Nový Svět was formerly the poorest quarter in the castle district and as such was left undeveloped.
A Priceless Library
The Strahov Monastery holds some 130,000 volumes, of which 3,000 are manuscripts (the oldest one is the Strahov Gospel) and 2,000 first editions. The library also has the distinction of housing the manuscript of the Gerlaci Chronicon (1220) and the first edition of the work by Nicholas Copernicus, De Revolutionibus Orbium Cœlestium (‘On the Revolution of the Celestial Orbs’), in which the famous astronomer explains that it is the earth that revolves around the sun and not vice versa.
Strahov Monastery
Situated a couple of minutes south of Loreto Square and overlooking the river and city is Strahov Monastery 6 [map] (Strahovský klášter; www.strahovskyklaster.cz; daily 10–11.30am and noon–5pm), founded in 1140. The complex was situated outside the protection of the city at the end of the road linking Bohemia to what is now Germany, and it was the first such building for the Premonstratensian order. By devoting itself to research it continued to function until 1952 when it was dissolved by the communist regime and the complex taken over for museums. Little remains of the original Romanesque buildings save traces of Gothic and Renaissance features. The monastery is now almost wholly Baroque in style, including two distinctive white towers.
Strahov’s Philosophical Library
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The monastery’s greatest treasure are the magnificent Theological and Philosophical Libraries, which were built in 1672 and the late 1700s respectively, and can be viewed from the doorway. The walls are a sight to behold, lined from top to bottom with bookcase upon bookcase of polished timber filled with numerous valuable editions, all aged parchment bound in leather. The eye is drawn up the cases to the highly decorated frescoed ceilings. The 18th-century cabinet of curiosities in the connecting hall houses, among other things, a faked chimera and two whale penises. One religious building remains, the Church of Our Lady (kostel Panny Marie; mass celebrated Mon−Sat 6pm, Sun 10am), with its rococo gilding and ceiling paintings of cherubs. Mozart is said to have played the organ in the church in 1787.
Malá Strana
Lying below the castle and stretching to the banks of the Vtlava River is Malá Strana, the Lesser Quarter or Little Quarter. The area was first settled in the 13th century when Otakar II invited German craftsmen to settle in Prague. Several fierce fires destroyed the early town, so although the street plan remains faithful to Otakar’s original instructions, the majority of the buildings date from a later period. Following the Counter-Reformation in the mid-17th century, Malá Strana became fashionable with courtiers and aristocrats, and their money was invested in mansions replete with Renaissance and Baroque details. This is still a residential area, a factor which gives it an intimate atmosphere tangibly different to that of Staré Město just across the river (for more information, click here).
The Church of St Nicholas
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Lesser Quarter Square
The heart of this quarter is Lesser Quarter Square (Malostranské náměstí) but its fine mansions, the arcades of which straddle the cobblestones, have been somewhat overshadowed by the busy tram stop here. In the centre of the square sits the Church of St Nicholas 7 [map] (kostel svatého Mikuláše; www.stnicholas.cz; daily Mar–Oct 9am–5pm, Nov–Feb 9am–4pm; tours Mar–Oct Wed−Mon 9am–5pm, Tue until 6pm, Nov–Feb daily 9am–4pm; concerts daily Apr–Oct 6pm), one of the most prominent buildings on the Prague skyline and one of the architectural highlights of the city. The building is perhaps the crowning glory of the Dientzenhofer dynasty. Work began in the first years of the 18th century but the church was not finished until 1755. The distinctive 75-metre (245ft) dome dominates the surrounding buildings. The now renovated interior of the church is a Baroque masterpiece, with ceiling frescoes by the Viennese artist Johann Lukas Kracker featuring scenes from the life of St Nicholas, and Franz Palko’s Celebration of the Holy Trinity gracing the inside of the dome. The two statues below that of St Nicholas above the altar are of St Ignatius Loyola and St Francis Xavier. The church organ has 2,500 pipes and 44 registers, and was once played by Mozart.
To the north of the square is the street of Letenská where you will see the Church of St Thomas (kostel svatého Tomáše; www.augustiniani.cz/en) abutting the road. Originally founded in 1257, it was one church that remained Catholic throughout the Hussite uprising, and at the onset of the Counter-Revolution became a major focus of Catholic worship. In 1723 the church was badly damaged during a storm, and Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer was commissioned to oversee its rebuilding. St Thomas was once the church of a large monastery that had the sole right to brew beer within Prague; the brewery closed in 1951, but the cellar is now home to the atmospheric St Thomas Brewery Bar (www.augustinehotel.com).
As you walk towards Malostranská metro station you pass the high walls of Wallenstein Palace (Valdštejnský palác; www.senat.cz; June–Sept Sat–Sun 10am–6pm, Apr, May and Oct until 5pm, Jan–Mar 10am–4pm). Now the home of the Czech Senate, this extensive complex was the first Baroque palace in Prague and was built for Albrecht von Wallenstein, a favourite military commander of Ferdinand II. He began work on the palace in 1624 but soon fell victim to his own publicity: he was killed on the king’s orders in 1634 when he was discovered to be holding secret talks with the enemy. The gardens (Apr, May, and Oct Mon–Fri 7.30am–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm; June–Sept until 7pm) feature a superb loggia, clipped hedges, fountains and statuary: copies of works by the celebrated sculptor Adriaen de Vries – the originals having been stolen by Swedish forces during the Thirty Years’ War.
Emblem of the House at the Three Fiddles, on Nerudova
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West of Lesser Quarter Square is Nerudova, named after writer Jan Neruda, who once lived here. There are a number of fine buildings on this street, each distinguished by an emblem as they were built before the introduction of street numbers. Look out for ‘The Three Fiddles’ at No. 12 or ‘The Green Lobster’ at No. 43. Thun-Hohenstein Palace at No. 20, its ornate entranceway framed by huge eagles, is now the Italian Embassy; the Morzin Palace at No. 5 now serves as a diplomatic base for Romania.
South of Lesser Quarter Square, the houses are a little less grand but the streets are peaceful and devoid of tourist shops. Walk down Karmelitská to find the Church of Our Lady of Victories (kostel Panny Marie Vítězná; www.pragjesu.info; Mon–Sat 9.30am–5.30pm, Sun 1–6pm; free) on your right, named in honour of the victory at the Battle of White Mountain in 1620. Most visitors come to see the Holy Infant of Prague – a wax effigy brought from Spain in 1628 and said to work miracles.
From the church, cross the street and head east to Maltese Square (Maltézské náměstí), filled with Baroque palaces, many of which are now embassy buildings. The square is named after the knights of Malta who were granted the nearby 12th-century Church of Our Lady Beneath the Chain (kostel Panny Marie pod řetězem; www.maltezskyrad.cz; Mon–Sat 9.30am–5pm) as a gift from King Vladislav. Here they built a large priory that provided protection for the Judith Bridge across the Vltava. The church’s odd name refers to the chain used to close the monastery gates. Just round the corner at Saská 3 lies the Karel Zelman Museum Muzeum Karla Zemana; www.muzeumkarlazemana.cz; daily 10am–7pm) where you can explore the fantastical world of this famous Czech film director and animator through interactive exhibits.
Boat on the canal at Kampa Island
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Kampa Island and Petfiín Hill
Located nearby, Grand Priory Square (Velkopřevorské náměstí) leads across a bridge to Kampa Island 8 [map]. Here you will find a fading mural of John Lennon – a focus for youth unrest in the final days of Communist rule. The narrow branch of the river separating Kampa Island from the Lesser Quarter was once used to power watermills. Most of the island is now parkland, though at its northern end is na Kampû, a delightful cobbled square. A large mill on the banks of the Vltava has been imaginatively converted into the Museum Kampa (www.museumkampa.cz; daily 10am–6pm), with collections of 20th-century and contemporary art.
Go down Karmelitská and, as it becomes Újezd, you will see the green parkland of Petfiín Hill 9 [map]. The vast, open area stretching all across the hillside is in fact four different parks. Footpaths wind up to the summit, but it is far less taxing to take the funicular (www.dpp.cz) running constantly throughout the day and evening. Once at the top you can stroll along to explore the park’s attractions. These include the Observation Tower – a mini Eiffel Tower built for the Prague Industrial Exhibition in 1891, a mirror maze, two chapels and a church, and the remnants of the Hunger Wall (Hladová zed’) – a city wall built by Charles IV and said to have been a community project to provide work, and therefore food, for the poor. Not far from the Hunger Wall, on Ujezd, is the stark Monument to the Victims of Communism, unveiled in 2002.
The Charles Bridge
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Charles Bridge
East of Lesser Quarter Square is Mostecká (Bridge Street). This short, shop-lined road leads to the river and one of the highlights of a visit to Prague: Charles Bridge ) [map] (Karlův most).
This 520-metre (1,700ft) -long bridge, one of the most famous in the world, was built across the Vltava in the mid-14th century following the destruction of the previous Judith Bridge in a flood. Charles IV and his architect, Peter Parler, were determined to build a bridge that would endure. But even they could not have imagined that it would last 600 years and counting. The original bridge was a very functional structure with little embellishment. At the Malá Strana end there were two towers: the Judith Tower (dated c.1190), the smaller of the two, survives as the only reminder of the Judith Bridge. The Lesser Quarter Bridge Tower was built as a gateway to the town. At the Old Town end of the bridge is the Old Town Bridge Tower, a masterpiece of Gothic architecture. Both towers are open to the public and offer splendid views of the city.
The relief depicting the demise of St John Nepomuk
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The numerous statues that now make the bridge unmistakeable were mainly added in the early 18th century when the Italian fashion for bridge decoration spread throughout Europe. The exception to this is the statue of St John Nepomuk, which was erected in 1683 on what was thought to be the 300th anniversary of his violent demise at the hands of King Wenceslas IV. When his lifeless body was thrown from the bridge onlookers claimed that a holy spirit was seen rising from it, and the story heightened his revered status. The bronze relief below Nepomuk’s statue, the one with five stars on the halo around the head, depicts the final moment of the saint; it is polished each day by the hands of thousands of tourists who hope it brings good luck.
The bridge carried traffic until the 1950s – until the mid-19th century it was the only way to cross the river – but is now reserved for pedestrians. During the day Charles Bridge can be one of the busiest parts of the city, as groups march determinedly between stops on the tourist trail. Numerous licensed artists set up stalls along its path to tempt you with watercolours or moody black-and-white photographs. More information on this city landmark can be found in the Charles Bridge Museum (Museum Karlova Mostu; Křižovnické náměstí 3; www.charlesbridgemuseum.com; May–Sept daily 10am–8pm, Oct–Apr 10am–6pm).
Staré Město (Old Town)
While political power was invested in Hradčany, the Old Town (Staré Město) – a cluster of streets on the opposite bank of the river – was the commercial heart of Prague. The city sat on important trading routes, east–west from Krakow into Germany and north–south from Vienna to Warsaw. As the Bohemian groschen became one of the major currencies in Europe, so the city began to take on a grander appearance. Today it offers streets of architectural delights from the medieval to the Baroque. Old Town Square, at the heart of the Old Town and once the main marketplace for the city, is a good place to embark on a visit.
Old Town Square
Often considered to be the very centre of Prague, Old Town Square ! [map] (Staroměstské náměstí) is a focus for tour groups, carriage rides, bars, cafés and shopping. It is also one of the architectural highlights of the city. Of a large, irregular shape that has changed over the centuries, it has been dominated in modern times by a powerful Monument to Jan Hus (pomník Jana Husa), unveiled in 1915 on the 500th anniversary of the martyr’s death. The Old Town Hall @ [map] (Staroměstská radnice; www.staromestskaradnicepraha.cz; Mar−Oct Mon 11am–6pm, Tue–Sun 9am–6pm, Nov–Feb until 5pm) sits on the southwest corner of the square. A curious amalgamation of buildings in different architectural styles – its earliest elements date from the 14th century – it expanded as Prague grew in importance. Badly damaged in World War II, the north wing has never been rebuilt.
The Astronomical Clock
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Execution Square
Old Town Square used to serve as a backdrop to public gatherings and also executions. In 1437, 56 Hussite soldiers mounted the scaffold. On 21 June 1621, the 27 leaders of the uprising of 1618 were executed on the order of King Ferdinand II. Their number was made up of noblemen and ordinary citizens, Germans and Czechs alike. Twenty-four of the condemned were put to death by the same executioner. The event is commemorated by a plaque set in the wall of the Old Town Hall along with crosses planted in the ground.
Although many interesting features adorn the exterior of the building, most visitors crowd to see the Astronomical Clock which was added in 1490. At the time, it was so highly prized by the city fathers that they had the clockmaker who made it blinded so that he could not re-create his masterpiece. On every hour, the figures on the clock perform their ritual. Death consults his watch and pulls a cord that rings a bell; Christ and the apostles appear above; and the crowing of a cock signals the end of the proceedings. The clock captures time in a variety of ways, from the passing seconds to the cycles of the sun and moon. It is interesting to note that, in keeping with the thinking of the time, the clock shows the earth positioned at the centre of the universe.
The House of the Minute
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You can visit the inside of the Old Town Hall to see the council chambers with their superb tapestries and the recently renovated Oriel Chapel. Climb the Old Town Hall Tower, erected in 1364, for an excellent view of the surrounding streets and rooftops. Abutting the Old Town Hall is Dům U Minuty. With its distinctive sgraffito decoration it is one of the most memorable Renaissance buildings in Prague.
The west flank of the square altered dramatically in the late 20th century. A large, open area behind the Old Town Hall was cleared following the devastation wreaked during the last days of the German occupation. It now has benches where weary tourists can take a rest. The ornate facade of the Church of St Nicholas (kostel svatého Mikuláše; www.svmikulas.cz; daily 10am–4pm) was once hidden down a narrow side street but today it appears as part of the north flank. Although a church has occupied this site since the 12th century, the present building dates from 1735. During World War I it served as the church of the Prague garrison, and at the end of the conflict was handed over to the constituted Czechoslovak Church. It is sometimes used to stage concerts.
The east flank is dominated by two buildings. The eye-catching rococo facade belongs to Kinský Palace (palác Kinských), designed by Kilian Deintzenhofer and built from 1755–65 by Anselmo Lurago. In 1948, from the palace balcony, Klement Gottwald made a speech that was instrumental in the communist takeover of the government. The palace houses the National Gallery’s collections of the Art of Asia and the Art of the Ancient World (www.ngprague.cz; Tue–Sun 10am–6pm).
Church of Our Lady before Týn
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In stark contrast is the Church of Our Lady before Týn £ [map] (kostel Panny Marie před Týnem; www.tyn.cz; Mar–Nov Tue–Sat 10am–1pm and 3–5pm), an immense Gothic edifice whose 15th-century towers rise to 80 metres (260ft) above the surrounding medieval streets. The church was a hotbed of heresy from its earliest days and became the main Hussite place of worship as the reform movement grew in popularity during the 16th century. Following the Counter-Reformation, it was handed back to the Catholic Church and has remained steadfast to the present day.
Around Old Town Square
The streets surrounding Old Town Square are a delight to explore. Almost every building throws up some highlight, ranging from the tiniest detail – a doorknocker or carved lintel – to the grand statement, for example the superb Renaissance door of the House at the Two Bears (Dům u Dvou Zlatých Medvědů), on Melantrichova. There’s no better way to explore this part of town than on foot, and much of the Old Town is pedestrianised.
West of Old Town Square, the area extending to the river is probably the most densely packed with fine mansions. However, it also has one of the highest concentrations of tourist shops. Next to Old Town Square is the much smaller Malé náměstí, decorated with a filigree fountain. On the west side of the square, it is the facade of Rott House (U Rotta; www.hotelrott.cz) that steals the show. It’s decorated with paintings by acclaimed 19th-century Czech artist Mikoláš Aleš.
Karlova or Charles Street is the most direct route to Charles Bridge. Look out for the Clam-Gallas Palace (Clam-Gallasův palác), a magnificent Baroque building set with gargantuan statues by Matthias Bernard Braun. Just before you reach the river you will pass the high walls of the Clementinum $ [map] (Klementinum; www.klementinum.com; daily guided tours every half an hour from 10am, Nov–Mar 10am–6pm, Apr–Oct 10am–7pm, last tour one hour before closing), a former Jesuit college and the largest complex of buildings on this side of the river. The site was originally the Dominican monastery of St Clement, but was offered to the Jesuit brotherhood by Ferdinand I in 1556 to promote Catholic education. Work commenced on the Church of the Holy Saviour in 1593, and its domes now describe one of the most recognisable outlines in the city. By the middle of the 17th century the Jesuits had a monopoly on education in the city as the Hussite faculty of the Carolinum (for more information, click here) was disbanded. The Clementinum expanded as the university grew, resulting in a large part of the Old Town being demolished in 1653, although this process was not completed until one hundred years later. When the Jesuit brotherhood was dissolved by papal decree in 1773, the Clementinum became home to the library of the secular Charles University. Today it is the National Library, and its churches are used as venues for concerts. Also on the site is the fascinating Astronomical Tower, from which there are wonderful views over the Old Town.
The approach to Charles Bridge is marked by the small Knights of the Cross Square (Křižovnické náměstí), watched over by a majestic statue of Charles IV erected here in 1848 to mark the 500th anniversary of the founding of Charles University. On the north side is the Church of the Knights of the Cross dedicated to St Francis Seraphicus (svatého Františka Serafinského). The one church is solely open for services.
South of the bridge is the Novotného lávka, a jetty lined with buildings. Furthest away, with a wonderful view of the river, bridge and castle is the Smetana Museum (muzeum Bedřicha Smetany; www.nm.cz; Wed–Mon 10am–5pm), which pays homage to one of the country’s most beloved composers and musicians.
South of Karlova is Bethlehem Square (Betlémské náměstí) where you will find a reproduction of the 14th-century Bethlehem Chapel (Betlémská kaple; www.bethlehemchapel.eu; Tue–Sun 10am–4pm). It was here that Jan Hus embarked on his campaign to reform the Catholic Church, which ended in his execution. One main form of protest consisted in conducting Mass in Czech instead of Latin. Just around the corner from here is the Rotunda of the Holy Cross, one of the three remaining Romanesque round churches in Prague.
French-style Pařížská
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The area north of Old Town Square has quite a different character from the rest of the district. This is Josefov, once the base of one of the most active and influential Jewish communities in Eastern Europe and still home to an Orthodox community. To reach Josefov, walk down Pařížská % [map], by the side of the Church of St Nicholas. This street, as the name suggests, is reminiscent of a leafy Paris boulevard complete with fine boutiques.
The Jewish community was founded in the latter years of the 11th century. Throughout the centuries the Jews were alternatively accepted and ostracised by the ruling dynasties. Certainly they were never allowed to expand beyond this small quarter. Despite a devastating fire in 1689 and the demolition of many buildings in the quarter in the 1890s to make way for new, more sanitary, housing, several important buildings remain. In the days leading to the genocide of the Jews by the Nazis in World War II, the treasures of numerous synagogues in Bohemia were brought to Prague for safekeeping and in order that a museum might be founded to document an extinct race. The collection is managed by the Jewish Museum (www.jewishmuseum.cz; Apr–Oct Sun–Fri 9am–6pm, Nov–Mar Sun–Fri 9am–4.30pm), which oversees several museums housed in the synagogues of Josefov.
The Golem
The giant man of clay called the Golem is Prague’s equivalent of the Frankenstein monster. He is supposed to have been fashioned out of mud from the riverside by learned Rabbi Loew (c.1520–1609), master of many an arcane mystery. Obedient at first, the Golem performs his allotted tasks, but runs amok when the rabbi forgets to renew the charm that keeps him under control. Eventually he is overcome, and a spell reduces him once more to mud. His remains are shovelled up and stored among the rafters in the attic of the Old-New Synagogue, where they have been ever since. Woe betide anyone who has the temerity to disturb them! The most enduring image of the Golem is the one in the film of the same name, a silent-screen classic of the early cinema by the German director Paul Wegener.
The Old-New Synagogue ^ [map] (Staronová synagóga; not part of the Jewish Museum; www.synagogue.cz; Sun–Thu 9am–6pm, winter till 5pm only, Fri 9.30am–5pm) is the oldest surviving synagogue in Europe. Built at the beginning of the 13th century, it was named the New Synagogue but renamed Old- New when a newer synagogue, now demolished, was built nearby. It is one of the finest medieval buildings in the city. The main hall is reached through a small, arched doorway featuring an elaborate carving of a vine; the 12 bunches of grapes depict the 12 tribes of Israel. The interior walls bear traces of 13th-century frescoes and later inscriptions of sections of the Psalms. The brick gables on the exterior were added in the 15th century. Next to the synagogue is the Jewish Town Hall (Židovská radnice), the seat of the Chief Rabbi. Its pink, Baroque facade is crowned by a fine tower and two clocks, which tell the time in Hebrew and Roman numerals.
The entrance to a complex of two synagogues and the Jewish Cemetery lies on Široká. The ticket office here offers a special rate for one or all of the Jewish Museum attractions; alternatively, you can buy tickets at each separate venue. At this site, the Pinkas Synagogue (Pinkasova synagóga; www.synagogue.cz; tours only Mon–Fri and Sun 1–1.30pm) began life as a private family place of worship, although it was later expanded to rival the Old-New Synagogue. Following the end of World War II, the names of all the Czech victims of the Holocaust were inscribed on the walls of this synagogue in a stark and powerful tribute to those who lost their lives.
The Old Jewish Cemetery
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Make your way through the outer courtyard of the Synagogue to reach the Old Jewish Cemetery (Starý židovský hřbitov; www.synagogue.cz; Sun, Tue and Thu 11am–4pm, Fri 10am–2pm; free). This small area was once the only burial ground for Jews and as such each plot was used by several generations of the same family. It is thought that over 12,000 gravestones have been placed here, the earliest surviving ones dating from 1429 and the most recent from 1787. The jumble of carved stones sits under the shade of mature trees. The Ceremonial Hall next to the cemetery was built in 1911 for the Prague Burial Society and now has an exhibition on Jewish life and traditions.
The Klausen Synagogue (Klausová synagóga) sits on the far side of the cemetery and was built on the ruins of a school, or klausen, in 1694. It displays artefacts relating to Jewish history and customs, including biographical information about the major figures of the Jewish community of Prague such as Rabbi Löw, who was suspected of working with the supernatural. His ornate tomb in the cemetery is regularly visited by well-wishers who have come to pay their respects. The Jewish Museum is responsible for two other synagogues. Nearby, Maisel Synagogue (Maiselova synagóga), on Maiselova, also began life as a private house of prayer – that of Mordachai Maisel who acted as banker to Emperor Rudolf II. The original structure was lost in the fire of 1689, but replaced by this ornate building, and it makes a fine backdrop to the collection of treasures it displays. Rare items of religious significance dating back to the Renaissance, including liturgical silver, textiles and manuscripts, can be viewed here.
The Spanish Synagogue
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Finally, a comparatively recent addition to the Jewish Museum is perhaps its pièce de résistance. The Spanish Synagogue & [map] (Spanělská synagóga; Sun–Fri 11am–5pm), a little way east on Vězeňská, has been renovated and its 1860s Moorish architectural style and wall decoration are truly dazzling. The richness of the interior is in total contrast with the simplicity of the Old-New Synagogue. Displays recount the recent history of the Czech Jewish community.
On the Banks of the Vltava
On the Outskirts of the Josefov are three attractions that are in no way associated with the Jewish community. The beautifully laid out Museum of Decorative Arts (Umělecko-průmyslové muzeum; www.upm.cz; Tue 10am–7pm, Wed–Sun 10am–6pm) occupies a French-style neoclassical building whose rear overlooks the Old Jewish Cemetery. It is a showcase for all types of decorative art, at which the inhabitants of Bohemia have consistently excelled. The museum holds one of the world’s largest collections of antique glass. There are also displays relating to ceramics, tapestries, costumes and clocks.
In the direction of the river stands the impressive, neo-Renaissance facade of the Rudolfinum (Dům umělců; www.ceskafilharmonie.cz), one of the finest concert venues in the city and home to the Czech Philharmonic Orchestra. It served as the seat of the Czechoslovak parliament immediately after independence in 1918.
Also on the banks of the Vltava, but a little way north, is St Agnes’s Convent * [map] (klášter svaté Anežsky). The convent was founded in the first half of the 13th century by the Poor Clares, and at its prime was a large complex of several churches and cloisters before falling into decay. Today the remaining buildings have been restored to house the National Gallery’s outstanding collection of Medieval Art in Bohemia and Central Europe: 1200–1550 (www.ngprague.cz; Tue–Sun 10am–6pm), including works by Master Theodoric, Lucas Cranach the Elder and Albrecht Dürer. The convent also acts as a venue for concerts and temporary exhibitions.
East of Old Town Square
Beyond the Church of Our Lady before Týn, you will find a collection of narrow lanes which hold the pretty Church of St James (kostel svatého Jakuba), and a wide thoroughfare, Celetná. Now free of traffic, it was once the major entry route to the city from the east. A stroll along Celetná reveals fine houses, little alleyways, courtyards and deep cellars. Faint traces of Renaissance Prague are discernible among the Baroque decoration. The House of the Black Madonna ( [map] (dům U černé Matky boží) at No. 34 dates from the early 20th century. The huge windows of this Cubist masterpiece, built by Josef Gočár in 1911–12, reveal its original use as a department store. The statue after which the house is named is located in a niche set on the corner of the facade. Renovated in 1994, the building was home to the National Gallery’s Museum of Czech Cubism until 2012, when part of the collection was moved to Veletržní Palace (for more information, click here).
The Royal Route
The Powder Tower marked the start of the so-called Royal Route, the route which the coronation processions of the Bohemian kings and queens took through the city, and which linked Royal Court Palace and Hradãany Castle across the river.
Carriages would travel down Celetná, through Old Town Square and along Karlova, before heading across Charles Bridge. Once in Malá Strana they would travel along Mostecká into Lesser Quarter Square before making their way via Nerudova to St Vitus Cathedral in the castle compound. There, the new monarch would be crowned.
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At the eastern end of the street is the Powder Tower , [map] (Prašná brána; www.muzeumprahy.cz/prasna-brana; daily Apr–Sept 10am–10pm, Mar and Oct 10am–8pm, Nov–Feb 10am–6pm), a tower dating from the end of the 13th century. It was one of the gates into the Old Town and marked a transition from the previously favoured defensive structure to a ceremonial entranceway. Originally, it was linked to a palace, called the Royal Court, which was demolished at the beginning of the 20th century after lying derelict for a number of decades. In its place – in the manner of a phoenix rising from its ashes – is one of Prague’s foremost Art Nouveau buildings, the Municipal House (Obecní dům; www.obecnidum.cz; daily tours available). The complex was built in the first decade of the 20th century to provide an exhibition space as well as a modern auditorium located at the heart of the building. Smetana Hall is well established as one of the major arts venues in the city, and has a sumptuous café, a glittering French restaurant, and a huge Pilsner beer cellar.
From the Powder Tower, come back into the Old Town and one street south of Celetná is Železná, also pedestrianised. Halfway down the street you will see the wrought-iron adornment of the Estates Theatre (Stavovské divadlo; www.narodni-divadlo.cz) ahead. Built in the 1780s, in its lines are some of the finest examples of neoclassical architecture in the city. Here on 29 October 1878, Mozart conducted the premiere of his new opera Don Giovanni in front of a rapturous audience. The theatre was also used as a set for the film Amadeus, directed by Czech Miloš Forman.
Next to the theatre lie the remains of the first university of Prague. The Carolinum (Karolinum) was founded by Charles IV and named after him. Jan Hus held the post of rector here and the campus became a hotbed of Hussite activity. After the victory of the Counter-Reformation it was handed over to the Catholic Jesuits and merged with their Clementinum complex near the river. Much of what remains here dates from the 18th century, but look for the beautiful oriel window overhanging the street between the Carolinum and Estates Theatre.
Nové Město (The New Town)
Charles IV gave the go-ahead for the building of the New Town (Nové Město) in 1348 when overcrowding in the Old Town was becoming an acute problem. Although much of the first stage of building has been swept away in subsequent redevelopment, the New Town has many important attractions. It is also a focus for hotels, and entertainment in the form of theatres, nightclubs and cinemas.
Na příkopě is the street that was the traditional dividing line between the Old Town and the New Town. It was built over the old moat, the defensive structure around the Old Town and links to the Powder Gate at its eastern end. Today it is pedestrianised, and is one of Prague’s most important retail streets, lined with modern shops, restaurants, casinos and exchange offices.
Wenceslas Square
The southern end of Na příkopě meets Wenceslas Square ⁄ [map] (Václavské náměstí), the symbolic heart of modern Prague for both independent Czechoslovakia and the Czech Republic. The scale of the square is truly impressive: more of a boulevard than a plaza, at first glance it brings to mind the Champs-Elysées in Paris. Huge crowds have gathered here, most recently in 1968 to protest against the arrival of Russian troops, and in 1989 to cheer the fall of communism. Largely closed to traffic, the square is a popular place for a stroll.
Pride of place still goes to the Café Evropa, an Art Nouveau gem. The hotel to which it belongs was once the toast of the city and currently is closed for renovation. Also look out for the Wiehl House with its neo-Renaissance decoration by Mikoláš Aleš on the corner of Vodičková.
St Wenceslas Monument with the National Museum
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At the top of the square sits the St Wenceslas Monument, crowned by a statue of the saint astride a noble steed. Below the great man are life-size statues of the other patron saints of Bohemia. The work of Josef Myslbek was erected in 1912.
Behind the monument is the National Museum ¤ [map] (Národní muzeum; www.nm.cz; daily 10am–6pm). Created at a time of rising national consciousness in the late 1880s, its neo-Renaissance styling makes a confident statement with a beautifully decorated exterior and grand interior. The museum contains rather dull collections relating to mineralogy, archaeology and anthropology. Both buildings of the museum, at Václavské náměstí and at Vinohradská 1 are closed for reconstruction at least till 2015.
North of the museum along busy Wilsonova is the neoclassical State Opera (Státní opera; www.narodni-divadlo.cz). Beyond this is the main railway station built in Art Nouveau style. Just north of the square on Panská 7 is the small Mucha Museum (www.mucha.cz; daily 10am–6pm), dedicated to the Art Nouveau works of Alphonse Mucha (1860–1939); there’s also a very good gift shop attached.
The bulk of the New Town lies to the southwest of Wenceslas Square, between the busy Sokolská and the river. Starting at the northwest end of Wenceslas Square and heading towards the Vltava you will come to Jungmannova. This is now one of the prime shopping areas of the city.
Fresco in the Church of Our Lady of the Snows
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On the east side of Jungmann Square (Jungmannovo náměstí) is the Church of Our Lady of the Snows ‹ [map] (kostel Panny Marie Sněžné; www.pms.ofm.cz; Mon–Sat 9am–3pm); look out for a curious Cubist lamppost outside the northwest entrance. Founded by Charles IV to mark his coronation in 1347, this great Gothic church was intended to have three aisles, but work was interrupted by the Hussite uprising. What remains today is the chancel of the original plan, standing on its own and consequently looking completely out of scale in relation to its floor area.
The National Theatre
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The National Theatre and Vicinity
Follow Národni in the direction of the river to find the National Theatre › [map] (Národní divadlo; www.pms.ofm.cz) and the New National Theatre. The former, an impressive building that adds grace to the riverfront vista, was built in the middle of the 19th century as the result of a passionate demand for an independent Czech theatre. In 1881, just before the theatre was due to open, it was completely destroyed by an accidental fire. However, such was the level of national pride at the time that within weeks the money had been raised to rebuild it, and it reopened in 1883 with a performance of Smetana’s Libuše. Many of the finest Czech artists of their day were commissioned to work on the theatre, which was renovated in the 1980s when Karel Prager was commissioned to design the New National Theatre so as to expand the complex. This is one of the most striking examples of Communist-era architecture in the city, presenting three cubic buildings with facades of glass brick, and acts as a permanent home to the National Theatre Company and Lanterna Magika.
Architecture Old and New
Next to the river you will see the Slovanský ostrov island to your left. The island did not exist until the early 18th century, but, following work to shore up its banks, it became the centre of social life in the city. Here, an ancient water tower is linked to the Manés Gallery, an edifice in the Bauhaus style that is one of the best examples of functionalism in Prague. The headquarters of the Manés group of artists who take their name from the 19th-century artistic dynasty, it has a changing programme of avant-garde exhibitions.
The ‘dancing’ towers of the Fred and Ginger Building
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Further south down Masarykovo nábřeží (Masaryk riverside boulevard), on the corner of Resslova, is another example of modern architecture. The Tančící dům (www.tancici-dum.cz), or dancing building, by the architect Frank Gehry, has become known locally as the Fred and Ginger Building. A glass-and-concrete tower (Ginger) gives the impression of being held by the upright tower (Fred), as if caught in action on the dance floor.
Memories of the Resistance
On 18 June 1942, the Church of St Cyril and St Methodius became the scene of an unequal battle between the assassins of Reinhard Heydrich, the Nazi governor of Bohemia and Moravia, and German troops. The Czechoslovak parachutists sent from Britain to carry out the assassination threw a bomb at Heydrich’s open-top car, then later sought refuge in the crypt. Unfortunately they had been betrayed. The whole area was sealed off and the crypt attacked by a battalion of the SS. The seven parachutists fought back determinedly for several hours, but their fate was sealed when the fire brigade was brought in to flood their hiding place. Not a single one of them was taken prisoner – they either perished in the fighting or took their own lives rather than surrender.
Walk up Resslova to find the Church of St Cyril and St Methodius fi [map] (kostel svatého Cyrila a Metoděje). Methodius, regarded as the father of Czech Christianity, was ably accompanied by St Cyril in his mission to preach the gospel. Built in the Baroque period (c.1730), this church was originally dedicated to St Charles Borromeo and served retired priests. It closed in 1783 but in the 1930s was reopened under the auspices of the Czechoslovak Orthodox Church, hence the change of name. The church became embroiled in one of the tragic episodes of World War II when, after they had assassinated the brutal Nazi governor Reinhard Heydrich, his killers were given sanctuary in the crypt. The Nazis exacted horrific revenge by ordering the village of Lidice to be burnt to the ground, the men shot, and the women and some of the children deported to concentration camps. A small memorial can be found outside the church where bullet holes from the incident are still visible. The crypt has been turned into a memorial museum (Tue–Sun Apr–Oct 10am–5pm, Nov–Mar 10am–4pm) with photographs, documents and memorabilia of the event.
The east end of Resslova meets Charles Square (Karlovo náměstí), the largest in the city. Laid out in the original city plan of 1348, it used to be the biggest market in Prague known as the Cattle Market. In the mid-19th century the square was transformed with the creation of a garden area, which today offers a place to relax. The surrounding apartment blocks are not particularly exciting but the Faust House fl [map] (Faustův dům) has been preserved and refurbished. The history of the house, which was given its baroque appearance in the 18th century, stretches back to the 14th century, when it belonged to Prince Václav of Opava, an alchemist and natural historian. In the 16th century, it was home to Englishman Edward Kelley, charged by Emperor Rudolf II with turning base metal into gold. The many secretive practices carried out here fostered its association with the legend of Faust.
The New Town Hall
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Walking north towards the Old Town you will find the New Town Hall ‡ [map] (Novoměstská radnice; www.nrpraha.cz) at the end of Charles Square. Building work started in 1348, and in 1419 it was the site of the First Defenestration of Prague (for more information, click here). Several additions were made in the 16th and 18th centuries, but it is the 15th-century tower that is still the building’s crowning glory. Before strolling back into the main part of the town, take a detour to U Fleků on Křemencová (www.ufleku.cz). Now a tourist trap, this beer hall has been open since 1499. It only serves the strong dark beer brewed on its premises.
Prolific composer
Dvořák composed an impressive number of works in his lifetime: 31 pieces of chamber music, 50 orchestra scores and nine symphonies, including the famous Slavonic Dances.
Close to the I.P. Pavlova metro station is the Baroque Vila Amerika, completed in 1720. Designed by Kilián Ignáz Dienzenhofer, it was originally used by the Michna family as a summer palace. Today it houses the Dvořák Museum ° [map] (muzeum Antonína Dvořáka; www.nm.cz; Tue–Sun 10am–1.30pm and 2–5pm), with memorabilia relating to one of the greatest Czech composers. There are recitals during the summer, although recorded compositions by Dvořák are played when the musicians are not present.
Around the corner, at No. 12 Na bojišti, is the Chalice Restaurant (U Kalicha; www.ukalicha.cz), famous for being the favourite drinking hall of Jaroslav Hašek, author of The Good Soldier Svejk.
Outlying areas
Some of the suburbs of Prague have a preponderance of dour modern apartment blocks to house the growing population. However, not all are so grim and there are a number of attractions that make a trip out on the metro or tram well worth the effort.
Vyšehrad
Vyšehrad (Vyšehrad metro station; www.praha-vysehrad.cz), meaning high castle, has an important place in the Czech national psyche. On this rocky mound overlooking the River Vltava, the legendary Přemyslid Princess Libuše foretold the founding of a great city on the banks of the river. She is said to have married a common man and begotten the children who would become the founders of the Czech nation. Unfortunately for the legends, archaeological activity can only date the settlement here to the 10th century, making it younger than Prague Castle.
The castle was built around 1085 by the Přemyslid leader Vratislav II and his two successors, who sought to consolidate power within their growing kingdoms. Along with the castle, an abbey was also built, and later a Romanesque basilica. Power was transferred to Prague Castle by the end of the 12th century. However, Charles IV breathed new life into Vyšehrad with new fortifications and large mansions in homage to his mother, who was descended from the Přemyslid dynasty. During the Hussite uprising many of the fortifications were destroyed, to be rebuilt in the late 17th century.
The 11th-century St Martin’s Rotunda
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From the metro station, a short walk will lead through two gateways and on to a simple stone church. This is St Martin’s Rotunda (rotunda svatého Martina), one of the oldest churches in Bohemia. Built in the 11th century, it was restored in the late 1800s.
The elaborate doorway of the Church of Saints Peter and Paul
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Make your way to the neo-Gothic Church of Saints Peter and Paul · [map] (kostel svatého Petr a Pavel; daily Apr–Oct 10am–6pm, Nov–Mar 10am–4pm), which was erected on the site of earlier places of worship. At this time, Vyšehrad’s mythical status as the birthplace of the Czech nation was once more gaining favour thanks to a blossoming spirit of nationalism. It was decided that the cemetery here would become a national cemetery (www.hrbitovy.cz) for illustrious Czechs, a symbol of national pride. The cemetery has some fine sculptures carved by masters of their art, and the composers Antonín Dvořák and Bedřich Smetana, along with the poet Jan Neruda, are among the many Czech luminaries who rest here.
National Technical Museum
The National Technical Museum º [map] (Národní Technické muzeum; www.ntm.cz; Tue–Fri 9am–5.30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm; tram routes 1, 8, 12, 25, 26, 51 and 56), hides a wealth of machinery relating to man’s technical achievements. There are sections on astronomy, cinematography, industry and mining. However, the main focus of the museum resides in its array of cars, trains and aeroplanes dating from the days when motorised transport was still in its infancy.
Lying woman, nude, by Rudolf Kremlicka, Trades Fair Palace
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The Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art
Founded in 1995 in the Trades Fair Palace ¡ [map] (Veletržní palác; www.ngprague.cz; Tue–Sun 10am–6pm; tram routes 1, 5, 12, 17, 24 and 26), a masterpiece of 1920s architecture, the National Gallery’s collection of Modern and Contemporary Art showcases work from the 19th, 20th and 21st centuries. The redesigned interior of the palace offers a contemporary viewing environment very suited to its collection. Although the works of Czech artists such as Mikoláš Aleš – who was at the forefront of the ‘generation of the National Theatre’ group – feature prominently, its draw for foreign visitors may well be its French collection.
The collection was brought together with the precise aim of representing the major transitions of French art. Many of the works on show were purchased by the Czech State in the 1920s. Each major modern school or artist figures here, from the Barbizon School to influential Cubist works by Picasso and Braque. The museum also has works by Gauguin, Cézanne and Delacroix, along with a range of Impressionist canvases. In the early 20th century, Prague’s influence on the arts, photography and architecture was considerable and the gallery offers an interesting exposition of the exponents of each genre.
The Exhibition Ground and Stromovka Park
The Stromovka (tram routes 5, 12, 14, 15 and 17) was for many centuries a royal hunting ground before being designated a public park in 1804. Today its woodland and lakes provide a pleasant alternative to the sometimes hot and dusty city streets. The Exhibition Ground (Výstaviště) was chosen as the location for the Jubilee of 1891, and its large buildings have been used to host regular exhibitions and concerts. In 2008 the main hall was damaged in a fire and restoration works are ongoing. Beside the exhibition halls is Lapidarium (www.nm.cz; Thu–Sun noon–6pm, Wed 10am–4pm), the National Museum’s collection of sculpture. Here you will find some exceptional works, including Petr Parléř’s figures from the Old Town Bridge Tower.
A waxwork at the City Transport Museum
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Mozart Museum
The Bertramka Villa ™ [map] (www.bertramka.eu; daily 10am−3pm; Anděl metro station) was where Mozart stayed on numerous occasions during his visits to Prague. It sits on a wooded expanse of land, which in his time would have been quite removed from the hubbub of the city. In 1787 during one of his visits, Mozart composed elements of the opera Don Giovanni only hours before the work’s debut at the Estates Theatre. The small museum here displays letters and scores in the hand of the great man, along with a number of musical instruments. In summer there are recitals in the courtyard.
Letná Park
Set on the banks of the Vltava opposite the Jewish Quarter, Letná Park (Letenské sady) is another open space within easy reach of the city. It offers superb views upriver and across the Old Town. Visitors are also drawn to a strange modern sculpture that sits on a concrete plinth overlooking the Vltava. The constantly swaying arm of a giant metronome was installed here after the Velvet Revolution, replacing a huge statue of Stalin.
Troja Palace
Situated to the north of the city on the banks on the Vltava is the huge Troja Palace # [map] (Trojský zámek; www.ghmp.cz; Apr–Dec Tue–Sun 10am–6pm, Fri 1–4; Holešovice metro station then bus 112). Constructed by the architect Jean-Baptiste Mathey as a summer home for the Sternberg family from 1679–85, the palace became the fashionable place in which to be seen upon its completion. Designed in the classic Italianate style, it has stunning frescoes adorning its interior, the ones in the Grand Hall being particularly impressive. Among the figures depicted are Habsburg emperors Rudolf I and Leopold I. The gardens sloping down to the river were in the French style, an innovation in Prague. The palace now houses the collection of the Prague City Gallery, mainly comprising 19th-century Czech painters.
Above the Troja Palace, on the hill that overlooks the river, are the lovely Prague Botanical Gardens (www.botanicka.cz; Greenhouse Tue–Sun May–Sept 9am–7pm, Apr and Oct 9am−6pm, Nov–Feb 9am−4pm, Mar 9am−5pm; gardens also open Mon). The most impressive attraction here is the Fata Morgana glasshouse that has a variety of flora from different climatic zones.
Bubeneč and Střešovice
Just behind the district of Hradčany are Bubeneč and Střešovice. The former comprises large villas and fin-de-siècle apartment blocks, home to diplomats, embassy staff and high-ranking civil servants. Střešovice is similarly bourgeois and home to the City Transport Museum (www.dpp.cz; July–Nov Sat–Sun 9am–5pm), with an interesting array of old trams and buses. Just around the corner is the Müller Villa (www.mullerovavila.cz; guided tour only, booked in advance; Tue, Thu, Sat and Sun Apr–Oct 9am, 11am, 1pm, 3pm and 5pm, Nov–Mar 10am, noon, 2pm and 4pm), the only example of the work of Brno-born Modernist architect Adolf Loos in Prague.
A little further out, in the district of Břevnov, is the park of Obora hvězda. At the centre of the park is the remarkable, six-pointed Renaissance palace known as the Letohrádek hvězda (www.oborahvezda.webpark.cz; May–Sept 10am–5pm, Oct 10am–4pm) that has on display a huge model of the Battle of Bilá Hora that took place nearby.
Vinohrady and Žižkov
Take metro line A to Jiřího z Poděbrad station, and you will emerge in the increasingly fashionable, densely built-up quarter of Vinohrady, somewhat dingy in places but full of atmosphere and historical charm. Nearby is the Modernist Church of the Sacred Heart, built in 1932, which has a distinctive, tombstone-shaped clocktower. Behind the church, turn left on Milešovská Street to be confronted by the gargantuan Television Tower (www.towerpark.cz; daily 8am–midnight). Construction began in the communist era and was completed in 1992. For a spectacular view of the city you can ascend 93-metre (305ft) of the 216-metre (709ft) tower to the observation deck
The tower is actually in the neighbouring, and rather more seedy, district of Žižkov, known for its working-class credentials – at one time it was a hotbed of sedition – and vast number of local pubs. The hill that rises to the north of the district is home to the National Monument ¢ [map], a large block of granite that houses the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. On the way up the hill you pass the Army Museum (www.vhu.cz; Tue–Sun 10am–6pm; free), with interesting displays on the role of the Czech army during the two world wars.
Excursions
The area immediately around Prague has a number of places that make fine day trips from the city. It is possible to reach all the sights by public transport and several companies offer a range of morning or day trips by bus.
Karlštejn Castle is a prime example of a medieval fortress
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Karlštejn
Rising high above the treetops of the winding valley of the River Berounka like a medieval vision come true, the castle of Karlštejn ∞ [map] is one of the great sights of Bohemia, drawing crowds of visitors. It was begun by Emperor Charles IV in 1348 as a spiritual retreat and repository for the crown jewels and the sacred relics he collected. The castle’s present appearance is partly the result of over-zealous rebuilding in the 19th century.
An alternative to the long walk uphill from the village at the foot of the castle is to ride in one of the horse-drawn carriages. From here there is a choice of three tours. Tour I (www.hradkarlstejn.cz; daily July–Aug 9am–6.30pm, Tue–Sun May, June and Sept 9am–5.30pm, Apr 9am–5pm, Oct 9am–4.30pm, Mar 9am–4pm, Nov–Feb 9am–3pm) takes in the imperial palace. Tour II (daily July–Aug 9am–6.30pm, Tue–Sun May, June and Sept 9.30am–7.30pm, Oct until 4.30pm and Nov 10am–5pm) reveals the castle’s sacred heart, a sequence of gorgeously decorated interiors. They include the Chapel of St Catherine, with wall-paintings set in a matrix of semi-precious stones, and the Chapel of the Holy Cross, with a starry vault and a stunning series of portraits by court painter Master Theodoric. Tour III (daily July–Aug 9am–6.30pm, May–June and Sept 9.30am–5.30pm) includes the great tower which is Karlštejn’s dominant feature.
Křívoklát
While Karlštejn is a short train ride from Prague, the medieval castle at Křívoklát § [map] (www.krivoklat.cz; Tue–Sun July–Aug 9am–6pm, June and Sept 9am–5pm, May 10am–5pm, mid-Mar–Apr and Oct 10am–4pm, Nov–Dec Sat–Sun 10am–3pm, Jan–mid-Mar Sat 10am–3pm) lies deeper in the countryside, high above a tributary of the Berounka. Surrounded by vast forests, it originated as a royal hunting lodge in the 12th century. Rebuilt and extended, it continued its role as a royal residence and is everything a feudal fortress should be, with sturdy walls and towers frowning down from a commanding height, and authentic medieval interiors.
The Memorial to the Children Victims of the War, Lidice
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Lidice
Following the assassination of Reichsprotektor Heydrich on 27 May 1942, the wrath of the Nazis was turned on an unassuming mining village near the steel town of Kladno. On the night of 9 June, Lidice ¶ [map] was sealed off, its menfolk shot and its women and children sent to concentration camps, from which few returned. The village was bulldozed and its name erased from the record. After the war, a new Lidice was built a short distance away and the site of the original village became a memorial, with a rose garden of remembrance and a museum (www.lidice-memorial.cz; daily Apr–Oct 9am–6pm, Mar 9am–5pm, Nov–Feb 9am–4pm) telling the tragic story in bitter detail.
Nelahozeves
On the banks of the Vltava north of Prague, the otherwise ordinary village of Nelahozeves • [map] has not one, but two attractions, albeit of very different kinds. Music-lovers make their way to the Dvořák Birthplace Museum (Památník Antonína Dvořáka; www.nm.cz; 1st and 3rd weeks in the month Wed–Sun 9.30am–noon and 1–5pm, 2nd and 4th weeks in the month Wed–Fri 9.30am–noon and 1–5pm), the modest village house where the great composer was born, while rather more visitors head for the zámek (www.zameknelahozeves.cz; Tue–Sun 9am–5pm). After the fall of Communism, this splendid Renaissance castle was given back to its original owners, the princely Lobkowicz family, who completed its restoration. Begun in the mid-16th century, the castle is extravagantly sgraffitoed on the outside and has a succession of opulent interiors reflecting the high status of what was one of the kingdom’s leading families.
Mělník
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Mělník
Visible from far away across the plain, the castle and church of the little town of Mělník ª [map] crown the bluff high above the confluence of the Vltava with the Elbe (Labe). With its origins in the 9th century, the castle was the place where the future ‘Good King’ Wenceslas (born around 907) was tutored in the ways of Christianity by his grandmother, Princess Ludmila. During the 14th century, Charles IV revived the local wine industry by importing vines from Burgundy, and, stepping down in terraces from the castle, Mělník’s vineyards are still famous, and the wine is on sale in the castle shop. The zámek (www.lobkowicz-melnik.cz; daily 9.30am–6pm) is in a variety of styles ranging from Gothic to Baroque, and has interesting wine cellars. Nearby, the parish church with its landmark tower has a kostnice (ossuary).
Terezín and Litoměřice
Within sight of each other, and only separated by the River Labe, the towns of Terezín q [map] and Litoměřice could hardly be more different. For centuries the market centre for the fertile surrounding countryside, historic Litoměřice was one of Bohemia’s most important towns, with a vast central square and a wealth of churches. By contrast, Terezín is an ugly upstart, a grim fortress town of barrack blocks, laid out in the late 18th century to protect the northern approaches to Prague. Outside the main walls and moats, the Small Fortress (Malá pevnost; www.pamatnik-terezin.cz; daily Apr–Oct 8am–6pm, Nov–Mar 8am–4.30pm) served as a political prison in Austro-Hungarian times. The regime was brutal, but nothing like what was to come under the Nazis. In 1941 they expelled all Terezín’s inhabitants, and turned the town into what they claimed was a model ghetto. No extermination camp, Terezín nevertheless saw thousands of deaths, and a majority of those incarcerated here were eventually transported to Auschwitz. The Ghetto Museum (daily Apr–Oct 9am–6pm, Nov–Mar 9am–5.30pm) brings home the horror of the place as well as celebrating the unquenchable spirit which made it a centre of creative endeavour, however temporary.
Kolín
Due east of Prague, Kolín w [map] is a rather nondescript industrial town on the banks of the River Labe. However, it makes a convenient stopping point on the way to or from Kutná Hora, and has a fine main square with a Renaissance town hall as well as the splendid Gothic Church of St Bartholomew, the glorious choir of which was the work of Petr Parléř.
The name of the town’s most famous son is held in high esteem by brass-band fans all around the world: Czech bandmasters had a virtual monopoly on Austro-Hungarian military bands, and supreme among them was František Kmoch, born here in 1848. His memory is honoured every year in June, when enthusiasts from around the world converge on Kolín and the air is filled with the cheerful sound of trumpets, trombones and tubas.
Kutná Hora
On high ground overlooking a winding river valley, this old town was at its peak in the Middle Ages, when it was bigger than London, and the silver extracted from its mines underpinned the prosperity of Prague and the Bohemian royal court. When the silver ran out, the town shrank to less than a third of its former size and became a backwater. There is still plenty of evidence of Kutná Hora’s e [map] great days; enough to make it one of the most popular day trips from the capital.
The Ossuary, Kutna Hora
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The outstanding monument is St Barbara’s Cathedral (Chrám sv. Barbora; www.khfarnost.cz; daily, Apr–Oct 9am–6pm, Mar and Nov–Dec 10am–5pm, Sat–Sun until 6pm, Jan–Feb 10am–4pm). Despite its incomplete state, this is one of the glories of Central European Gothic architecture. Begun at the end of the 14th century, in the mid-16th century it was given its extraordinary roof in the form of a triple tent by Benedikt Ried, who also designed the beautiful vaulting of the nave.
On one side of the street running north from the cathedral is the huge Jesuit College, on the other, above the drop to the river, a line of Baroque sculptures of gesticulating saints. Further along the valley rim, the 15th-century palace known as the Hradek contains a museum of silver, while beyond rises the tower of another major church, St James (sv. Jakub). Adjacent to the church is the much-restored power-house of the city’s medieval economy, the Italian Court (Vlašský dvůr; daily Apr–Sept 9am–6pm, Mar and Oct 10am–5pm, Nov–Feb 10am–4pm), now housing a museum of minting. It was here that experts brought in from Florence turned out coins like the Prague groschen, legal tender over much of the known world until the 19th century.
In the suburb of Sedlec just northeast of the town, next to a Gothic church made Baroque by the architect Santini, stands one of the country’s great curiosities, the Ossuary (Kostnice; www.ossuary.eu; Apr–Sept Mon–Sat 8am–6pm, Sun 9am–6pm, Oct and Mar 9am–5pm, Nov–Feb 9am–4pm), containing a fantastical array of bells, coats of arms and chandeliers, all made from human bones.
Průhonice
Only 16km (10 miles) from Prague, the village of Průhonice r [map] is famous for its castle and vast landscaped park. The castle (www.zamekpruhonice.cz, not normally open to the public) is occupied by the Botanical Institute of the National Academy of Science, whose botanists have a wonderful array of trees, shrubs and other plants at their disposal in the vast park where they work.
Průhonice Castle dates to the Middle Ages, but the present building is a romantic structure in Czech neo-Renaissance style. It was built in the late 19th century by Count Ernst Silva-Taroucca, who was also responsible for laying out the park (www.parkpruhonice.cz; daily May–Sept 7am–8pm, Apr and Oct 7am–7pm, Mar 7am–6pm, Nov–Feb 8am–5pm), a major achievement of landscape design, with lakes, vistas, walks, an alpine garden and, above all, countless trees, both native and exotic.
Rural retreat
Cold-shouldered at the imperial court in Vienna because he had married Sophie Chotek, a mere countess, Franz Ferdinand was happy to hide away in his rural retreat at Konopiště, where he is reckoned to have shot animals by the hundred thousand. He himself perished by the bullet, when he and Sophie were assassinated in Sarajevo in June 1914 by a Serb nationalist, in what is generally considered to be the starting signal for World War I.
Konopiště
The Czech Republic’s main motorway connecting Prague to Brno and beyond leads beyond the tatty outer suburbs into attractive countryside rich in parks and castles. Close to the town of Benešov is Konopiště t [map] (www.zamek-konopiste.cz; May–Aug Tue–Sun 9am–5pm, Apr and Oct Tue–Fri 9am–3pm, Sat–Sun until 4pm, Sept Tue–Fri 9am–4pm, Sat–Sun until 5pm, Nov Sat–Sun 9am–3pm). It rivals Karlštejn in its popularity with visitors. Originally a medieval stronghold built in the 13th century, it was restored and modernised in the late 19th century by Archduke Franz Ferdinand. Redolent of the last days of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, the interiors seem much as they were lived in by the archduke and his family, while the pervasive decoration with hunting trophies reflects his passion for the chase. A particular highlight is the armoury, one of the finest private collections in the world. Franz Ferdinand re-landscaped the castle park, providing it with a lavish rose garden.
Český Šternberk towers over the Sázava Valley
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Český Šternberk
While Konopiště is buried deep in woodland, the castle at Český Šternberk y [map] (www.hradceskysternberk.cz; June–Aug Tue–Sun 9am–6pm, May and Sept Tue–Sun 9am–5pm, Apr and Oct Sat–Sun 9am–5pm) sits on a rocky ridge high above the River Sázava, seemingly impregnable against all comers. The castle was begun in the mid-13th century by a member of the Šternberk family, one of the most powerful dynasties in the realm. It has been greatly remodelled over the years and in its present form is a largely Baroque structure. Under Communism, a Šternberk was allowed to stay on as curator. Today, the restored stronghold is worth a visit for its superb site and its fascinating, often oddly shaped interiors. It is filled with furnishings and fittings in styles ranging from Renaissance to Empire, as well as portraits, hunting trophies, chandeliers and artefacts from the Thirty Years’ War, when the castle survived a couple of sieges.