1 “We sold Isaac …”: Kai Runenstein, A.I., 11/26/97.
2 “It looks divine …”: Isaac Mizrahi, A.I., 7/2/97.
3 “All my life …”: Michael Gross, “Slave of Fashion,” New York, 10/1/1990.
4 “I just got…”: Isaac Mizrahi, A.I.
5 “Look, it is all …”: Ibid.
6 “I will always have …”: “Isaac Mizrahi Shutting Down,” WWD, 10/2/98.
7 “Today my style … “: Teri Agins, “Way of All Flash: The Decline of Couture Is Seen in the Closing of a New York Salon,” The Wall Street Journal, 4/28/92.
8 “There used to be …”: Teri Agins, “Breaking Out of the Gray Flannel Suit,” The Wall Street Journal, 3/23/92.
9 “Have We Become …”: Jerry Adler, “Have We Become a Nation of Slobs?” Newsweek, 2/20/95.
10 “I got more …”: Teri Agins, “Out of Fashion: Many Women Lose Interest in Clothes to Retailers’ Dismay,” The Wall Street Journal, 2/28/95.
11 “was only a bit … “: “How to Buy a Sweater,” Consumer Reports, December 1994.
12 “In another trial …”: “Wash and Worry,” Consumer Reports, May 1997.
13 “The fact is …”: Martha Nelson, A.I., 8/4/97.
1 “We will know …”: Karl Lagerfeld, A.I., 4/24/98.
2 ‘The fact is …”: Holly Brubach, “In Fashion: The Rites of Spring,” The New Yorker, 6/6/88.
3 “You know, you …”: “Lacroix Takes New York,” WWD, 10/30/87.
4 “she felt forced, …”: Dennis Thim, ‘The New Lacroix,” WWD, 7/19/91.
5 “I believe I have … “: Lacroix fashion show program, July 1997.
6 “When I wrote …”: Bemadine Morris, A.I., 6/26/97.
7 “It’s the same …”: Teri Agins, “Not So Haute: French Fashion Loses Its Primacy as Women Leave Couture Behind,” The Wall Street Journal, 8/29/95.
8 “Nowhere else in … “: Marilyn Bender, The Beautiful People, New York: Coward McCann, 1966, p. 205.
9 “Worth, who invented …”: Caroline Rennolds Milbank, Couture, New York: Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 1985, p. 26.
10 “The fashion system …”: Pascal Morand, A.I., 7/9/97.
11 “They were all snobs …”: Gerry Dryansky, A.I., 1/23/97.
12 “Christian Dior darted …”: Bettina Ballard, In My Fashion, New York: David McKay, 1960, p. 60.
13 “Right after the shows …”: Agins, “Not So Haute.”
14 “better to wait…”: Ballard, In My Fashion, op. cit.
15 “Most every French home …”: Veronique Vienne, French Style, Columbus, Ohio: Express, 1993, p. 81.
16 “The women who … “: James Brady, A.I., 1/9/97.
17 “The real issue …”: John Fairchild, Chic Savages, New York: Pocket Books, 1989.
18 “What was amusing…”: Karl Lagerfeld, A.I.
19 “From then on …”: Bender, Beautiful People, p. 228.
20 “Dior rejected an initial offer …”: Alice Rawsthom, Yves Saint Laurent, New York: Nan A. Tálese, 1996, p. 20.
21 “From 1983 to 1989 …”: Marie Foumier, A.I., 4/23/98.
22 “all that horrible …”: Marc Bohan, A.I., 1/24/97.
23 “suffered from ‘inconsistency’…” and following: Colombe Nicholas, A.I., 5/2/97.
24 “My name is more…”: Richard Morais, Pierre Cardin, London: Bantam, 1991, p. 150.
25 “Cardin is a very … “: Henri Berghauer, A.I., 7/28/97.
26 “when he was forced …”: Morais, op. cit., p. 164.
27 “His fortune was … “: Ibid., p. 234.
28 “I don’t understand …”: Pierre Cardin, A.I., 1/22/97.
29 “Pierre was considered …”: Henri Berghauer, A.I.
30 “A name is like … “: Joan Kron, “Fashion Empire: Haute Couture Means High Finance at the House of Yves Saint Laurent,” The Wall Street Journal, 9/10/84.
31 “The perfume business …”: Patrick McCarthy, A.I., 12/10/97.
32 “was valued at…”: Bryan Burrough, “The Selling of Saint Laurent,” Vanity Fair, 4/93.
33 “In the next…”: Philip Revzin and Teri Agins, “All About Yves: Saint Laurent Remains Idol of French Fashion but He Isn’t Immortal,” The Wall Street Journal, 4/6/89.
34 “If he dies …”: Burrough, “Selling of Saint Laurent.”
35 “developed a marketing …”: Armando Branchini, A.I., 3/8/97.
36 “In one sense …”: Fairchild, op. cit., p. 29.
37 “In 1984, Arab …”: Kron, “Fashion Empire.”
38 “It was Pierre …”: Morais, op. cit., p. 119.
39 “In 1996, bridge … “: Katherine Weisman, “Secondary Collections Can’t Seem to Make a French Connection,” WWD, 10/15/97.
40 “French designer brands …”: Ibid.
41 “Mugler and Montana …” and following: Armand Hadida, A.I., 1/21/97.
42 “I just couldn’t …”: Elizabeth Snead, A.I., 4/99.
43 “We’re really not…” and following: Joan Kaner, A.I., 5/23/97.
44 “When you look … “: Agins, “Not So Haute.”
45 “It is better …”: Didier Grumbach, A.I., 7/4/97.
46 “Fashion in France …”: Pascal Morand, A.I.
47 “Mouclier claimed that…” and following: Jacques Mouclier, A.I., 7/11/97.
48 “I know something …”: Godfrey Deeney, “Ralph Cries Foul in Yves Saint Laurent Copycat Suit,” WWD, 4/28/94.
49 “line for line …” and following: Godfrey Deeney, “Lauren Fined by Paris Court and So Is Bergé,” WWD, 5/19/94.
50 “The French respondents …”: Susan Rice, A.I., 7/95.
51 “Karl is a …”: Bernadine Morris, A.I.
52 “All this media …”: Karl Lagerfeld, A.I.
53 “no longer impressed …”: Agins, “Not So Haute.”
54 “Behind his angelic …”: Nadege Forestier and Nazanine Ravai, The Taste of Luxury, London: Bloomsbury Publishing, 1992, p. 41.
55 “There was always …”: Colombe Nicholas, A.I.
56 “My relationship to …”: Forestier and Ravai, Taste of Luxury, p. 106.
57 “It is a massive …”: Patrick McCarthy, A.I.
58 “looks ‘like vomit’…”: Laurence Benaim, “La Revolution de Soie,” Paris Match, 1/19/97.
59 “People aren’t going to … “: James Fallon, “Alexander de Paris,” W. 49 “crude and vulgar …”: Karl Lagerfeld, A.I.
60 “For Bernard Arnault …”: David Wolfe, A.I., 4/16/97.
61 “What is the press …”: Colombe Nicholas, A.I.
62 “guaranteed to pill …” and following: Zoe Heller, “Jacob’s Ladder,” The New Yorker, 9/22/97.
63 “It isn’t a question …” and following: Bernard Arnault, A.I., 3/19/99.
1 “My colleagues always …”: Charlotte Aillaud, “Emanuel Ungaro,” Architectural Digest, 9/88,
2 “Ferragamo was prepared …”: Ferrucio Ferragamo, A.I., 8/96.
3 “I want this …”: Emanuel Ungaro, A.I., 7/96.
4 “Emanuel had such …”: Grace Mirabella, A.I., 4/5/97.
5 “Nearly all of…”: Carlo Valerio, A.I., 1/21/97.
6 “These are huge…”: Katherine Weisman, “Ungaro’s New Marriage,” WWD, 7/8/96.
7 “had stashed them …”: Pier Filipo Pieri, A.I., 1/21/97.
8 “During that time …”: Ferrucio Ferragamo, A.I., 8/96.
9 “It was easy …”: Ibid.
10 “had a perfect…”: Aillaud, op. cit.
11 “What I can …”: Gruppo GFT, Emanuel Ungaro, Milan: Electa, Milan Elemond Editori Associati, 1992, p. 38.
12 “When Balenciaga changed …”: Beverly Rice, A.I., 6/11/97.
13 “Knapp hocked her …”: Emanuel Ungaro, A.I., 1/29/97.
14 “One name on …”: WWD, 7/65.
15 “GFT said …”: Emanuel Ungaro, A.I., 7/12/97.
16 “But the couturier …”: René Ungaro, A.I., 4/24/98.
17 “He makes what … “: Catherine de Limur, from an unpublished 1984 interview with Joan Kron.
18 “Research just shows …”: Emanuel Ungaro, A.I., 4/24/98.
19 “I sew the sleeves …”: Emanuel Ungaro, A.I., 1/29/97.
20 “Everything evolves from …”: Pamela Golbin, A.I., 1/29/97.
21 “full of suffering … “: Emanuel Ungaro, A.I., 1/21/97.
22 “I try to teach … “: Emanuel Ungaro, A.I., 1/21/97.
23 “After twenty-three years …”: Jennet Conant, “The Heat Is On,” Newsweek, 4/4/88.
24 “Emanuel puts a woman …”: Lynn Wyatt, 4/17/97.
25 “turning off lights …”: “Rich, Rich, Rich,” WWD, 1/1/86.
26 “never spent more … “: Carlo Valerio, A.I., 1/21/97. 67 “We have a …”: Maura De Visscher, A.I., 6/97.
27 “I knew the …”: Kyra Sedgwick, A.I., 7/97.
28 “hearts were shattered …”: Ben Brantley, “Ungaro Undone,” Vanity Fair, 3/90.
29 “I like to play …”: Laura Ungaro, A.I., 7/11/97.
30 “heavy, clumsy and brutal…”: Salvatore Ferragamo, Salvatore Ferragamo, Shoemaker of Dreams, Florence: Centro di Delia Edifimi srl, 1985 (originally published in 1957), p. 42.
31 “Salvatore became famous …” and following history: Stefania Ricci, Salvatore Ferragamo, The Art of the Shoe, New York: Rizzoli International Publications, 1992, pp. 60–86.
32 “For them, it was …” and following: Steven Slowick, A.I., 7/9/97.
33 “The Bain review …”: Carlo Valerio, A.I., 9/97.
34 “We know he gets …”: Ferrucio Ferragamo, A.I.
35 “thought it might …” and following: Peter Arnell, A.I., 6/2/97.
36 “Valerio worried that …”: Carlo Valerio, 1/8/98.
37 “zero for the …”: Ferragamo, A.I. With regard to Ferragamo’s aversion to licensing, see Harvard Business School case study E 9–391–159 on Salvatore Ferragamo SpA, in which Fulvia Ferragamo is quoted: “If the label says Ferragamo, then there is a Ferragamo behind it from design to sale.”
38 “There was little …” and following: Carlo Valerio, A.I.
39 “The division had …”: Carlo Valerio, A.I., and confidential source.
40 “difficult opportunity …”: Thierry Andretta, A.I., 4/23/98.
41 “I like the history…”: Ibid.
42 “Laura Ungaro hit the …”: Thierry Andretta, A.I., 9/10/98.
43 “Ferrucio is more …” and following: Laura Ungaro, A.I., 4/24/98.
44 “The Ferragamos are …” and following: Emanuel Ungaro, A.I., 4/24/98.
45 “We can’t force …” and following: Ferrucio Ferragamo, A.I., 4/11/99.
1 “I don’t respect…”: Ralph Lauren, A.I., 4/9/97.
2 “Lauren couldn’t get …”: Confidential sources.
3 “You know, most …”: Frank Rich, “Stars and Stripes for Polo,” The New York Times, 7/18/98.
4 “We’ve been assured …”: Patricia Leigh Brown, “Hillary Clinton Inaugurates Presentation Campaign,” The New York Times, 7/14/98.
5 The Washington Times cartoon ran on 7/19/98.
6 “A shopper at…”: Rich, “Stars and Stripes.”
7 “Congress was considering,…”and following quote from Rich: Ibid.
8 “It’s not the jeans…”: Terry Lundgren, A.I., 12/23/97.
9 “Ralph Lauren, who …”: Ralph Lauren, A.I., 4/9/97.
10 “Young Ralph set…”: Jeffrey A. Trachtenberg, Ralph Lauren: The Man Behind the Mystique, Boston: Little, Brown, 1998, p. 26.
11 “as Brooksy as …”: Cathy Horyn, “Ralph Lauren, Suiting Himself; Sometimes, Criticism Can Wear a Little Thin,” The Washington Post, 5/24/92.
12 “Frank Lifshitz was …”: Jeffrey A. Trachtenberg, p. 20.
13 “millionaire …”: Ibid., p. 26.
14 “Nobody was interested …” and following: Ibid., p. 29.
15 “The age of elegance …”: Ibid., p. 60.
16 “buoyed by a …”: Ibid.
17 “I elevated the …”: Ralph Lauren, A.I.
18 “I would be …”: Lang Philips, “Confessions of a Young Wasp,” New York, 9/2/91.
19 “The only difference …”: Jonathan Yardley, “King Lauren Conferring Nobility,” The Washington Post, 12/15/86.
20 “I don’t put…”: Ralph Lauren, A.I.
21 “LVMH’s Bernard Arnault…”: Bernard Arnault, A.I., 3/19/99.
22 “Polo’s licensees generated …” (for fiscal year ending 3/31/86): Trachtenberg, p. 263.
23 “In 1894, the …”: Trachtenberg, p. 9. Author’s note: “The Madison Avenue store generated sales of $33.8 million in fiscal 1993. Given the significant original investment in construction, as well as the ongoing expenses associated with maintaining it as a perfect prototype for Polo’s customers and licensees, management expects that the store’s expenses will continue to exceed its revenues.” From a confidential financial document on Polo Ralph Lauren Corp. prepared by the company.
24 “Everyone loves M&M’s …”: Ralph Lauren, A.I.
25 “Ralph is demanding …”: Confidential source.
26 “Ralph was always …”: Confidential source.
27 “The salespeople were …”: Confidential source.
28 “Think of this …”: Confidential source.
29 “I always see …”: Mimi Avins, “The Good Life for 30 Years. Ralph Lauren Has Set the Standard for American Style,” Los Angeles Times, 9/12/96.
30 “Now I think …”: Ibid.
31 “stuff inside there …”: “Ralph’s Teepee,” W, 12/1/95.
32 “Ralph is busy …”: Confidential source.
33 “We work with …”: Ralph Lauren, A.I.
34 “Every year the …”: Confidential source.
35 “Ralph is the …” and following: Confidential source.
36 “Do I need …”: Ralph Lauren, A.I.
37 “Ralph wanted the …”: Teri Agins, “Gang of Five,” Avenue, 9/89.
38 “When you see him …”: Confidential source.
39 “There probably isn’t …”: Horyn, “Suiting Himself.”
40 “gobbled up and …”: Michael Gross, “Ralph’s World,” New York, 9/20/93.
41 “In 1990, Calvin …” and following: Teri Agins and Jeffrey A. Trachtenberg, “Designer Troubles: Calvin Klein Is Facing a Bind as Magic Touch Appears to Be Slipping,” The Wall Street Journal, 11/22/91.
42 “Klein’s reversal of…”: Teri Agins, “Shaken by a Series of Business Setbacks, Calvin Klein Inc. Is Redesigning Itself,” The Wall Street Journal, 3/21/94.
43 “preppy classics with …”: Hilfiger Corp. press releases.
44 “Murjani’s Polo-lite …” and following: Teri Agins, The Wall Street Journal.
45 “Every decade someone …”: Trachtenberg, p. 220.
46 “He may have …”: Agins, “Tommy Hilfiger,” op. cit.
47 “To the consumer…”: Vicki Vasilopoulous, “U.S. Designers Set Out to Redefine Themselves,” DNR, 12/24/90.
48 “By setting his …”: Amy M. Spindler, “Hilfiger’s New Blueprint,” The New York Times, 6/11/96.
49 “Tommy came down …”: Michael Toth, A.I., 6/19/97.
50 “I haven’t done …”: Ralph Lauren, A.I.
51 “He chatted up …”: Tommy Hilfiger, A.I., 8/5/97.
52 “They couldn’t believe …”: Jim Moore, A.I., 4/97.
53 “I saw products …” and following: Silas Chou, A.I., 8/5/98.
54 “Tapping into his …”: Joel Horowitz, A.I., 8/18/97.
55 “From the beginning …”: Ibid.
56 “Hilfiger’s initial public …”: Hilfiger Corp. stock prospectus, 6/12/92.
57 “We are just …”: Silas Chou, A.I.
58 “Now I’m not…”: Joel Horowitz, A.I.
59 “Four times a year …”: The author attended Hilfiger’s adoption meeting.
60 “We always bought …”: Jonathan Van Meter, “Hip Hop Hilfiger,” Vogue, 11/96.
61 “honest working people …” and following: Michel Marriott, “Inner-City Outer Gear, Urban Youth Take to Clothing of the Outdoors,” The New York Times, 2/17/94.
62 “Andy knew that…” and following quote: Andy Hilfiger, A.I.
63 “The next week …”: Ibid.
64 “He didn’t use …” and following: Lloyd Boston, A.I., 8/5/97.
65 “Kidada speaks her …”: Andy Hilfiger, A.I.
66 “Tommy Hill was my …” and following quote: Alex Foege, “Playboy Interview: Tommy Hilfiger,” Playboy, 10/97.
67 “I feel proud …”: Joel Horowitz, A.I.
68 “the number one …”: According to spokesman from Oxford Industries, Hilfiger’s shirt licensee, 8/97.
69 “Tommy is a …” and following quote: Ned Allie, A.I., 8/5/97.
70 “There are people …”: Ralph Lauren, A.I.
71 “Tommy gives Ralph …”: Confidential source.
72 “his salary would climb …”: Hilfiger Corp. 1996 proxy statement.
73 “Ralph and I …”: Alex Foege, op. cit.
74 “Tommy shrugged it…” Tommy Hilfiger, A.I.
75 “I sensed that…” and following quote: Ralph Lauren, A.I.
76 “Ralph knows the …”: Susan Caminiti, A.I., 98.
77 “Is this going to be on the cover …”: Ibid.
78 “And on one …”: Spokespersons for Lauren and Hilfiger, A.I., 5/99.
79 “Lauren’s first jeans …”: Trachtenberg, pp. 200–201.
80 “As a matter …” Ibid. p. 202.
81 “The company rolled out…”: Mary Ellen Gordon, “Double RL Hits Some Bumps Along the Way,” WWD, 9/93.
82 “By the time …”: Andy Hilfiger, A.I.
83 “Such were the …”: The author attended Hilfiger’s book signing in New York.
84 “I don’t know …”: Michael Toth, A.I.
85 “Friday night was …”: The author attended the Hilfiger party.
86 “People around here …”: Confidential source.
87 “It’s a generational…” and following quote: Joel Horowitz, A.I.
88 “Maybe we can …”: Silas Chou, A.I.
1 “The press gives …”: Giorgio Armani, A.I., 7/30/98.
2 “high-energy …”: Armani press release, 9/19/96.
3 “an estimated $2 million …”: Estimate provided by Armani officials. The Emporio Armani concert was largely underwritten by its licensees.
4 “He recruits my …”: Sara Gay Forden, “Armani Ballistic as Forte Leaves Him for Calvin,” WWD, 5/24/94.
5 “great complicity …”: Giorgio Armani, A.I., 3/14/97.
6 “For the moment…” and following quote: Ibid.
7 “felt very young …”: Ibid.
8 “an impressive $90 million …”: Jay Cocks, “Suiting Up for Easy Street; Giorgio Armani Defines the New Shape of Style,” Time, 4/5/82.
9 “changed his life …”: Teri Agins, “Who Loves Armani? Actors, Car Washers, and Senior V.P.’s,” The Wall Street Journal, 10/31/90.
10 “Armani is safe…”: James Servin, “Look Who’s Watching,” Harper’s Bazaar, 9/98.
11 “Change has to …”: Suzanne Somers, Italian Chic, New York: Villard Books, 1992, p. 19.
12 “Armani changed the …”: Patrick McCarthy, A.I.
13 “Armani put women …”: Rosita Missoni, A.I., 3/6/97.
14 “The news from …”: “Notes on Fashion,” The New York Times, 7/18/83.
15 “Nicholas auditioned several …” and following: Colombe Nicholas, A.I.
16 “I know that …” and following: Patrick Robinson, A.I., 4/5/97.
17 “went through the …”: Colombe Nicholas, A.l.
18 “We had our …”: Patrick Robinson, A.I.
19 “I pay attention,…” Giorgio Armani, A.I.
20 “journalist Carl Bernstein …”: Agins, “Who Loves Armani?” op. cit.
21 “Fashion is finished…”: Rebecca Mead, “Giorgio Armani Designer,” New York, 9/16/96.
22 “Celebrities work on …”: Martha Nelson, A.I., 8/4/97.
23 “Versace loved the …”: Hal Rubenstein, A.I., 8/97.
24 “wore Versace on …”: Cathy Horyn, A.I.
25 “The Italian designers have …”: Sara Gay Forden, A.I., 7/98.
26 “In Italy, we …”: Armando Branchini, A.L, 3/9/97.
27 “There was no way …”: Marie-France Pochna, Christian Dior, New York: Arcade Publishing, 1996, p. 161.
28 “Lancia charged us …”: Nino Cerruti, A.I., 7/8/97.
29 “Cerruti’s Paris boutique …”: Ibid.
30 “What I could spot…”: Ibid.
31 “fruitful years …”: Cocks, “Suiting Up,” op. cit.
32 “People were all …”: Giorgio Armani, A.I.
33 “Armani had already …”: Nino Cerruti, A.I.
34 “Kathleen was very …”: Nino Cerruti, A.I.
35 “Hollywood is like …”: Ibid.
36 “Gabriella is a true…”: Pier Filipo Pieri, A.I., 1/21/97.
37 “Radziwill had mentioned …”: Karen Stabiner, “Dressing Well Is the Best Revenge, or How a Former Reporter Went from Missouri to Milan—and a Job That Pays Her to Wear $2,000 Designer Suits,” Los Angeles Times, 12/11/88.
38 “It’ll be a …”: Los Angeles Times, “Listen,” 6/10/88.
39 “bought up a storm …”: Marylouise Oates, “Marylouise Oates: Broadway at the Bowl: Bet on a Sequel,” Los Angeles Times, 8/31/88.
40 “Costner turned …”: Wanda McDaniel, A.I., 11/15/97.
41 “Catholic schools had …”: Pat Reilly, A.I., 11/24/97.
42 “My players always …” and following: Ibid.
43 “Armani initially provided …”: Ibid.
44 “made an adjustment …” and following: Ibid.
45 “also flew Reilly …”: Confidential source.
46 “Lee Radziwill called to …”: Bridget Foley, “CFDA: A Bumpy Trip to Its Lincoln Center Bash,” WWD, 2/3/92.
47 “So maybe they …”: Ibid.
48 “I’d almost feel …”: Pat Reilly, A.I.
49 “looks like an …”: Kevin Doyle, “Armani’s True Confessions: The Magician of the Jacket, Giorgio Armani Is a Secret Dreamer Who’s Putting His Fantasy on Display in His First Major Retrospective,” WWD, 6/25/92.
50 “I had a business …”: Ibid.
51 “The stars were …”: Bob Mackie, A.I., 1/6/98.
52 “That dress was so …”: Ibid.
53 “It’s not so …”: Wayne Scot Lukas, A.I., 10/97.
54 “hip, cool and …” and following: Ibid.
55 “On a night …”: Glenn Close, A.I., 9/20/98.
56 “When I’m in …”: Ibid.
57 “He was so …”: Armani spokeswoman, A.I., 11/15/97.
58 “I like to keep …”: and following quote: Giorgio Armani, A.I.
59 “According to its …”: Armani spokeswoman, A.I.
60 “It started out…”: Wanda McDaniel, A.I.
61 “she received, unsolicited …”: Lisa Bannon, “And the Winner Is: Anybody Who Has an Oscar-Night Gig,” The Wall Street Journal, 3/21/97.
62 “After the Escada …”: Teri Agins, “Will Tom Hanks Wear Hush Puppies on Oscar Night?” The Wall Street Journal, 3/24/95.
63 “The maker of …”: Ibid.
64 “I’m trying to …”: Ibid.
65 “Gap sold thousands …”: Gap spokeswoman, A.I., 1998.
66 “Mr. Armani is …”: Agins, “Will Tom Hanks.”
67 “We’re cutting back …”: Armani spokeswoman.
68 “The company’s wholesale …”: Armani spokeswoman.
69 “In 1998, several …”: Heidi Parker, “Film Fashion Frenzy,” Movieline, 9/98.
70 “can overhype …”: Martha Nelson, A.I.
71 “Armani is synonymous …”: Sara Gay Forden, A.I.
1 “The consumer is …”: Daniel J. Boorstin, The Americans: The Democratic Experience, New York: Random House, 1973.
2 “This was a moment…”: Michael Francis, A.I., 1/97.
3 “the noisiest confrontation …”: Peter Wilkinson, “Store Wars: Marshall Field’s and the Bloomingdale’s Invasion,” Vanity Fair, 10/88.
4 “It’ll be fun …”: Ibid.
5 “Marshall Field’s and a little …”: Gary Witkin, A.I., 6/30/97.
6 “The ambiance is …”: Gloria Bacon, A.I., 6/10/97.
7 “Customers [were] telling …”: Dan Skoda, A.I., 7/22/97.
8 “When you go …”: Gary Witkin, A.I.
9 “Establishing an identity …”: Arnold Aronson, A.I., 8/12/97.
10 “about $70 million…”: Janet Key, “Field’s Keeps Legend Alive, Still Chicago’s Number One,” 9/9/85, Chicago Tribune.
11 “We had an …”: Arnold Aronson, A.I.
12 “People would stop …”: Phyllis Collins, A.I., 8/23/97.
13 “Miller’s biggest challenge…” and following description: Key, Chicago Tribune, op. cit.
14 “You can’t get …”: Ibid.
15 “Disneyland of party …” and following: Jon Anderson, Barbara Mahany, Ron Grossman, “Social Studies: Chicago Pops the Cork on a Magnum Party Season,” Chicago Tribune, 9/11/88.
16 “I’m not eating …”: Ibid.
17 “I hope this …”: Jon Anderson, Barbara Mahany, Genevieve Buck, John Teets, “Party Wars: 3,400 Cheer on the Blast on Boul Mich,” Chicago Tribune, 2/25/88.
18 “This is the …”: Ibid.
19 “If it’s done …”: Ibid.
20 Description of Robert Campeau’s speech: Dorothy Fuller, A.I., 8/24/97.
21 “$7.5 billion …”: Jeffrey A. Trachtenberg, “Campeau’s Federated and Allied Stores Take Step Toward Leaving Chapter 11,” The Wall Street Journal, 10/29/91.
22 “an ‘ideal marriage’…”: Genevieve Buck, “Can Crown Jewel Be Restored? Dayton Hudson Will Need Magic Wand to Revive Field’s Mystique,” Chicago Tribune, 12/25/95.
23 “Marshall Field’s is …”: Dorothy Fuller, A.I.
24 Descriptions of Field and Leiter and Marshall Field & Co.: Lloyd Wendt and Herman Kogan, Give the Lady What She Wants: The Story of Marshall Field & Co. New York: Rand McNally, 1950.
25 “marble palace …”: Charles Collins, Chicago Tribune, 2/10/52.
26 “style expert …” and bustle dress: Homer Sharp, A.I., 2/23/97.
27 “I like this …”: Wendt and Kogan, Give the Lady What She Wants, p. 237.
28 “Chicago gangster Al Capone …”: Ibid., p. 355
29 “Kathleen was so …”: Dorothy Fuller, A.I.
30 “we put them …” and following Carmel Snow quote: Ibid.
31 “Kathleen knew that…”: Ibid.
32 “who swept through …” and following: Wendt and Kogan, Give the Lady What She Wants, pp. 204–207.
33 “came by the …”: Ibid.
34 “Dayton Hudson was keen …”: Gary Witkin, A.I.
35 “Never in their minds …” and following: Phyllis Collins, A.I.
36 “Gloria Bacon, a Field’s …”: Gloria Bacon, A.I.
37 “The Chicago customers …”: Gary Witkin, A.I.
38 “Our buyers are your …”: Homer Sharp, A.I., 8/23/97. 178 “Our buyers are lucky …”: Dan Skoda, A.I.
39 “before television and …”: Allen Questrom, A.I., 4/16/97.
40 “created the ultimate …”: Philip Miller, A.I., 4/30/97.
41 “Most people don’t…”: Allen Questrom, A.I.
42 “or about a million …” Dayton Hudson Corp. 1997, 1998 annual reports.
43 “a show of…”: Genevieve Buck, “Marshall Field’s for Fall: Fashion and Theatre Share the Same Stage,” Chicago Tribune, 5/8/91.
44 “‘Cause for Applause’ was …”: Genevieve Buck, “Fashion Show a Festive Affair with Patinkin,” Chicago Tribune, 8/11/91.
45 “The way we …”: Gerald Storch, A.I., 7/97.
46 “There were more …”: Teri Agins, “Out of Fashion, Many Women Lose Interest in Clothes to Retailers’ Dismay,” The Wall Street Journal, 2/28/95.
47 “The way retailers …”: Carl Steidtmann, A.I., 6/23/97.
48 “Never ones to…”: Ann Hagedorn, “Will Many Go Mini? The Fashion World Awaits the Answer,” The Wall Street Journal, 6/22/87.
49 “Claiborne spent hundreds of …”: Irene Daria, The Fashion Cycle, New York, Simon & Schuster, 1990, p. 14.
50 “Nina Totenberg …”: Ibid., p. 7.
51 “apparel prices fell…”: Agins, “Out of Fashion,” op. cit.
52 “Only about 20 percent …”: Teri Agins, “Liz Claiborne to Close Stores but Problems Remain,” The Wall Street Journal, 12/29/94.
53 “The average retail …”: Agins, “Out of Fashion,” op. cit.
54 “the more confident…”: Susan Faludi, Backlash, p. 174.
55 “In women’s apparel …”: Agins, “Out of Fashion,” op. cit.
56 Gap brand has been the second most popular brand after Levi’s since 1991: Russell Mitchell, “The Gap,” Business Week, 3/9/92.
57 Gap 1998 results from company reports.
58 “For years, we …”: Patrick McCarthy, A.I.
59 “Fashion had ground …”: David Wolfe, A.I.
60 “That is the big …”: Patrick McCarthy, A.I.
61 “By 1996, discounters …” and following on Wal-Mart and department stores’ market share: Ira P. Schneiderman, “Discounters Snag More Apparel Shoppers,” WWD, 6/11/97.
62 “Outside of Bloomingdale’s …”: Terry Lundgren, A.I., 12/23/97
63 “is not growing …”: Management Horizons report “North American Retail Outlook to 2001,” 5/97.
64 “There are maybe …”: Robert Buchanan, A.I., 3/97.
65 Description of Eileen Fisher’s relationship with department stores: Eileen Fisher, A.I., 9/97.
66 “The worst thing …”: Ellin Saltzman, A.I., 2/25/97.
67 “May has never …”: Arnold Aronson, A.I.
68 “I can wait …”: Dan Skoda, A.I.
69 “desperately need to …”: Management Horizons.
70 “If we really …”: Kal Ruttenstein, A.I.
71 “We give them …”: Joan Kaner, A.I.
72 Banana Republic estimates are for 1998 from Richard Baum, Goldman, Sachs & Co., A.I., 3/99.
73 “We felt the …”: Mickey Drexler speech at Goldman, Sachs & Co. Retailing Conference in New York, 9/11/98.
74 “Gap Gets It…”: Nina Munk, Fortune, 8/3/98.
75 “We were promotionally …” and following quote: Dan Skoda, A.I., 8/22/97.
76 “In the old …”: Hank Lorant, A.I., 9/11/98.
77 “They are now …”: Dan Skoda, A.I., 9/11/98.
78 “We couldn’t believe …”: Confidential source.
79 “They’re slowly …”: Susan Chandler, “Field’s Re-Wooing of Upscale Shoppers May Be Winning Strategy: Parent Has Seen Payoff in the Last Four Months,” Chicago Tribune, 7/26/98.
80 “They recognized …”: Ibid.
81 The author attended Field’s 9/11/98 party in Chicago.
82 “Thank God, the …”: Sugar Rautbord, A.I., 9/11/98.
1 “No, I’m not…”: WWD, 5/97.
2 “I don’t watch …”: Teri Agins and Wendy Bounds, “Donna Karan CEO Is Sobered by Wall Street Fling,” The Wall Street Journal, 11/13/96.
3 “Women will decide …”: Mimi Avins, “Karan Layers It on with Her New Line,” Los Angeles Times, 10/30/96.
4 “talked her into …”: Josie Esquivel, A.I., 97.
5 “It was all …”: Confidential source.
6 “Unfortunately, we never …”: Tomio Taki, A.I., 2/5/97.
7 The description of the road show and quotes from Karan are all from “Going Public,” Donna Karan, Vogue, 9/96.
8 “She made it …”: Tomio Taki, A.I.
9 At the $24-a-share June 1996 offering, Takihyo’s 24.7 percent stake in Donna Karan was valued at about $127.5 million. By October, DK traded at around $15.50, making Takihyo’s stake worth about $82 million.
10 “I have been a …”: “Donna Karan’s Agenda: Find a Co-chief Executive, Firm Up Licensing Deals,” WWD, 6/6/97.
11 “The market has …” and following quote: Linda Killian, A.I., 4/14/97.
12 “Donna Karan’s best…”: Linda Sandler and Teri Agins, “Donna Karan IPO Got a Warm Reception but Designer’s Earnings Outlook Is Uncertain,” The Wall Street Journal, 7/1/96.
13 “Investors were starstruck …”: Josie Esquivel, A.I. 5/97.
14 “Fashion companies can …”: Arnold Cohen, A.I., 7/97.
15 “Puritan couldn’t survive …” and following quote: Ibid.
16 “Kimmel personally pocketed …” and following: Thomas J. Ryan and Lisa Lockwood, “The Age of the IPO: Fashion Execs Wear Crowns of Royalty,” WWD, 4/17/97.
17 “Columbia skirted the …”: Thomas J. Ryan, “Columbia’s IPO Wows Wall Street,” WWD, 3/30/98.
18 “High fashion and …”: Alan Millstein, A.I., 2/97.
19 “Donna is an …”: Ibid.
20 “poured more than $10 million …”: Tomio Taki, A.I.
21 “a terrible student …”: Jennet Conant, “The New Queen of New York,” Manhattan Inc., 10/89.
22 “I was always a …”: Ibid.
23 “But Donna was unfocused …”: Ibid.
24 “Young Taki had …”: Teri Agins, “Tomio Taki Is Hoping to Stay in Fashion,” The Wall Street Journal, 8/30/88.
25 “he sent dozens …” Ibid.
26 “get the order …”: Dexter Levy, A.I., 7/27/98.
27 “Oppenheim had no …”: Ibid.
28 “Anne was legendary …” and following: Ibid.
29 “There are no …”: Agins, “Tomio Taki Is Hoping,” op. cit.
30 “sit wherever you …”: Ibid.
31 “I wanted her …”: Tomio Taki, A.I.
32 “it was always …”: Ibid.
33 “I needed a …” and following quote: Teri Agins, “Woman on the Verge,” Working Woman, 5/93.
34 “Go talk to …”: Tomio Taki, Ibid.
35 “Unfortunately, the combination …” and following quote: Ibid.
36 “I design from …”: Agins, “Woman on the Verge.”
37 “In my opinion …”: Stephen Ruzow, A.I., 2/98.
38 “Fortunately, her bread-and-butter …”: Ibid.
39 “Karan was a …”: Agins, “Woman on the Verge.”
40 “intimately acquainted …”: Conant, “The New Queen.”
41 “What’s business to …”: Agins, “Woman on the Verge.”
42 “insures that a …”: Ibid.
43 “She would do …”: Ibid.
44 “We creative types …”: Agins and Bounds, “Donna Karan CEO.”
45 “Donna is the …”: Confidential source.
46 “In creating financial…”: Tomio Taki, A.I.
47 “Whenever the costs …”: Stephen Ruzow, A.I.
48 “She and Weiss …”: Agins, “Woman on the Verge.”
49 “We had so …”: Tomio Taki, A.I.
50 “The scent was …” and following quote: Georgina Howell, “Donna’s Prime Time,” Vogue, 8/92.
51 “losses of $5.9 million …”: Teri Agins, “With IPO in the Wing Is Donna Karan in Fashion?” The Wall Street Journal, 8/16/93.
52 “The fragrance debacle …”: Tomio Taki, A.I.
53 Details of Leslie Fay accounting scandal: Teri Agins, “Loose Threads: Dress Maker Leslie Fay Is an Old Style Firm That’s in a Modem Fix,” The Wall Street Journal, 2/23/93.
54 “So Karan, Weiss, and …”: Teri Agins and Sara Calian, “Donna Karan Suspends Plan for Public Offer,” The Wall Street Journal, 11/18/93.
55 “He wasn’t credible…”: Rebecca Mead, “Donna Sells Her Soul,” New York, 5/6/96.
56 “burns my butt …”: Ibid.
57 Gucci results from 1995 and 1996 offerings from Gucci Group press releases.
58 “The company’s balance…”: Donna Karan International stock prospectus, 6/10/96.
59 “For the use …”: Ibid.
60 “advised against…”: Josie Esquivel, A.I., and Tomio Taki, A.I.
61 “claiming that it…”: Tomio Taki, A.I.
62 “if anybody deserved …”: Ibid.
63 “Designer Holdings made …”: Wendy Bounds, “Donna Karan Shares Sink After Pact with Designer Holdings Is Terminated,” The Wall Street Journal, 3/6/97.
64 “The contract stated …”: Arnold Simon, A.I., 6/11/97.
65 “We were on track …”: Stephen Ruzow, A.I.
66 “Mori appealed to …”: Jennifer Steinhauer, “Donna Karan in the Cutting Room,” The New York Times, 6/28/97.
67 “didn’t sit well …”: “Karan Reflects on Her Week’s Development,” WWD, 8/4/97.
68 “But there was …”: Stephen Ruzow, A.I.
69 “estimated $100 million …”: Ibid.
70 “Employees saw many …” and following: John Idol, A.I., 3/10/99.
71 “But Karan had gotten …”: Ibid.
72 “Consistency in menswear …”: Stephen Ruzow, A.I.
73 “one-time fashion …”: John Idol, A.I.
74 “ridiculous that DKNY’s …”: John Idol speech at Goldman Sachs & Co. Retailing Conference, 9/9/98.
75 “This is The …”: Ibid.
76 “I’ll pay for …”: Confidential source.
77 “We may have …”: Wendy Bounds, Donna Karan interview on Dow Jones News Service, 4/27/97.
78 “We’ve turned the …”: Teri Agins, “Donna Karan Reports Much Narrowed Loss and Cost Cutting,” The Wall Street Journal, 3/25/99.
79 “The post IPO …”: Valerie Seckler, “Wall Street Runway, Why Some Stocks Fly and Others Don’t,” WWD, 5/11/98.
80 “to pull in $44 million …”: Russ Stanton, “The Rise and Fall of Mossimo Giannulli,” Los Angeles Times, 3/8/98.
81 “latter-day version of rat-packer …”: Frederick Rose and Teri Agins, “Fashion Designer Becomes Fashion Victim on Wall Street,” The Wall Street Journal, 10/23/96.
82 “shareholders headed into …”: Frederick Rose, “Designer Mossimo to Wear New Title of Firm’s ‘Visionary,’” The Wall Street Journal, 3/6/98.
83 “I never believed …” and following: Robert Gray, A.I., 11/10/97.
84 “the Grays sold …” and following: Ibid.
85 “We’re not going …”: Ibid.
86 “You know we …”: Gray speech to analysts at Robertson Stephens Retailing Conference in New York on 10/11/98.
87 Claiborne study: Al Shapiro, A.I., 1/98.
1 “You don’t have to …”: Zoran, A.I., 2/98.
2 “amounted to an estimated …”: Estimates from retail executives.
3 “Zoran recalled spending …”: Teri Agins, “Uniquely Chic: If Zoran Doesn’t Ring a Bell That’s Fine with Quirky Designer,” The Wall Street Journal, 5/8/95.
4 “was an equal …”: Marion Greenberg v. Zoran Ladicorbic, State Supreme Court of New York, 7/1/83.
5 “who was initially …” and following: Ben Brantley, A.I., 97.
6 “didn’t consider Zoran …”: Ibid.
7 “Zoran is a man …”: Ibid.
8 “You need to …”: Agins, “Uniquely Chic.”
9 “He wanted to …”: Ibid.
10 “I want you …” and following: Cathy Horyn, A.I., and Zoran, A.I.
11 “I told him …” and following: Lauren Hutton, A.I., 11/12/97.
12 “With their implicit…”: Ben Brantley, “Zoran Zeitgeist,” Vanity Fair, 3/92.
13 “There was this …”: Ben Brantley, A.I.
14 “I am your …”: Agins, “Uniquely Chic.”
15 “You like to look …”: Zoran, A.I., 3/95.
16 “give jewelry …”: Agins, “Uniquely Chic.”
17 “Woman should be …” and following: Zoran, A.I.
18 “Zoran has an incredible …”: Ann Free, A.I., 95 and 5/97.
19 “If they want …”: Zoran, A.I.
20 “Arena logged …”: Roberta Arena, A.I., 95.
21 “I feel that …” and following: Nancy Friday, A.I., 97.
22 “One Bendel’s client…”: Ted Marlow, A.I., 4/29/97.
23 “They are separating, …” and following: Agins, “Uniquely Chic.”
24 “Zoran believed that…”: Zoran, A.I.
25 “Garratt maintained all …”: Sandra Garratt, A.I., 3/98.
26 “Garratt’s first year …” and following: Diane Reischel, “Units Creator Wrapped up in Legal Woes,” Los Angeles Times, 5/4/90.
27 “I knew I could …”: Zoran, A.I., 3/97.
28 “Labels scratch …”: Agins, “Uniquely Chic.”
29 “$14,000 in 1998 …”: “Designer Agrees to Label Fine,” WWD, 7/28/98.
30 “it was more typical…”: June Home, A.I., 3/97, and Gary Galleberg, A.I., 3/97.
31 “great success with …” and following: Agins, “Uniquely Chic.”
32 “Zoran grew into a …”: Joan Weinstein, A.I., 7/97.
33 “understands his …” and following: Ibid.
34 “His seamstresses kept…”: Agins, “Uniquely Chic.”
35 “I close up …”: Ibid.
36 “More than 25,000 combinations …”: Zoran, A.I., 2/98.
37 “the best mills …”: Gary Galleberg, A.I.
38 “But they don’t …”: Ann Free, A.I., 4/95.
39 “I had heard …” and following quotes: June Home, A.I.
40 “The most time …”: Zoran, A.I.
41 “I was intrigued …” and following: Gary Galleberg, A.I., 6/17/97.
42 “The tab for …” and following: Agins, “Uniquely Chic.”
43 “Is kitchen available?” and following: Author attended the 3/7/95 dinner in Milan.
44 “hadn’t been profitable …”: Bill Blass, A.I., 7/1/97.
1 “Companies that stumble …”: George Anders and Scott Thurm, “The Innovators—The Rocket Under the Tech Boom: Heavy Spending by Basic Industries,” The Wall Street Journal, 3/30/99.
2 “The alarms were …”: From Peter Jacobi speech to the American Textile Manufacturers Institute, 3/13/99.
3 “‘war of the handbags’…”: Thomas Kamm, “War of the Handbags Escalates as LVMH Revives Gucci Quest,” The Wall Street Journal, Dow Jones News Service, 6/10/99.
4 “The brewing battle …”: Thomas Kamm, “Gucci Watch: Behind the Competition for Luxury-Goods Firm Is a New European Ethic,” The Wall Street Journal, 3/22/99.
5 “Cardin insisted that…”: “Pierre Cardin Says Prefers to Sell to Italian Group,” Dow Jones News Service, 3/15/99.
6 “This company has …”: Teri Agins, “Polo Ralph Lauren Agrees to Acquire Canadian Chain,” The Wall Street Journal, 3/2/99.
7 “The Hilfiger organization …”: Hilfiger spokeswoman, A.I., 5/99.
8 “which generated $17 million …”: Susan Chandler, “Outsourcing Risks, Rewards: The Decision to Farm Out Production of Frango Mints Has Left a Not-So-Sweet Aftertaste in Chicago, but Field’s Is Hardly Alone in Retailing or Other Sectors in Taking That Route,” Chicago Tribune, 3/14/99.
9 “This is the candy capital …” and following on zoning proposal: Gary Washbum and Susan Chandler, “A Taste of Politics of Field’s Daley Message Hits Target on Frango Jobs,” Chicago Tribune, 3/12/99.