CHAPTER 2

Propagation

Propagating plants is a great way to start a low-cost, customized garden. Propagating plants properly is even better because you start with healthy, organic plantlings that grow into robust and resistant plants.

When the seed catalogs are delivered in winter is the best time to curl up by the fire and start planning your garden. The varieties of plants that are available to start from seed are much more diverse than what you can purchase as nursery starts. With homegrown seedlings, you know the ingredients that go into the plants from the start.

Learning the steps to grow from seeds or plant cuttings is an important part of your education as a plant parent. It helps to see both the fragility and strength of plants contained in a small scale. Propagation can be one of the most difficult parts of growing a garden, but it is also one of the most rewarding. If you can learn to provide the proper conditions for plants to germinate and take root, then you will be another step closer to your connection to the garden.

There are plenty of recipes and projects in this chapter that make propagation easy and a whole lot of fun! Now let’s get the (garden) party started with seed-starting, seed bombing, and propagating from cuttings.

Seed Germination Test

Packaged seeds are tested for their germination rates (the percentage of seeds that will sprout). Germination rates decline as seeds age, vary by variety, and can be altered by storage conditions and other factors. Newly purchased seeds do not need germination testing, but if you have seeds that are many years old or that you have collected yourself, then a seed germination test will save you the effort of planting seeds that aren’t going to germinate.

Materials

10 seeds

Paper towel

Plastic bag

Spray bottle

Label

Make It!

1. Fold a paper towel in half and wet it with a spray bottle of water.

Place the 10 seeds inside the fold of the paper towel, and cover.

2. Place the paper towel in the plastic bag (it can be folded) and close the bag partly to create a mini greenhouse. (The bag needs to have a bit of airflow so keep part of it open.) Label the bag with the seed variety and date.

3. Set the bag in a warm spot such as on top of the refrigerator.

4. Each day check the seeds for signs of sprouting and mist the paper towel. Seeds should sprout within 3 to 10 days, or as indicated for the variety.

If germination rates are low (less than 85 percent), plant extra seeds or, if it’s quite low, compost the seeds altogether and purchase new ones.

Recycled Seed-Starting Pots

Using what you have available is a great way to make recycled seed-starting pots and reduces waste.

Newspaper Pots

Newspaper pots are sturdy enough to handle holding seeds while they germinate, and they break down readily in the garden.

To make them, wrap 31/2-inch x 12-inch (8.5-cm x 30-cm) strips of newspaper around a paper pot maker or small tomato paste can, leaving an extra 1 to 2 inches (30 to 60 cm) of newspaper hanging past the bottom of the cylinder. Fold the overhanging newspaper in toward the middle of the base to create a bottom for your seedling pot.

Toilet Tissue Pots

Toilet tissue pots are a bit sturdier and work well for cuttings and seeds that take longer to germinate.

To make them, cut the toilet paper roll in half and then cut four 1/2-inch-long (1-cm-long) slits on the bottom of one end, equally spaced to make four flaps you will fold over like closing a box.

The cardboard will take longer to break down in a garden than the seedling’s rootball will grow, so gently tear each pot to remove it and toss them in the compost bin at planting time.

Cardboard Egg Carton Starter for Peas and Greens

Cardboard egg cartons are great for starting shallow-rooted plants such as peas and lettuces that you would normally plant in a row.

Use a box cutter to score (but don’t cut all the way through) a line through the middle of all six cells on each side of the carton, on the bottom, parallel to the longest side of the carton. The idea is that the cells stay together when the seeds germinate, but they can easily be split apart when planting. Set the cells into the lid, using it as a tray to hold it all together. Fill the cells with seed-starting soil mix and plant the seeds.

When transplanting time comes around, cut the bottom of the carton (the cells) in half lengthwise so you have two rows of six seedlings. Make a trough in the garden soil where you intend to plant and break the cardboard apart where you scored it so that the seedlings fall through the bottom into the trough.

Soil-Blocking Tool

A soil-blocking tool is the least wasteful of all of these options because it requires no additional materials. A soil blocker is used to press seed-starting potting mix into blocks that hold their shape for seed germination.

To make a tray of soil blocks, combine the seed-starting mix with water in a wide bin until it is the texture of wet sand; it should hold together when you squeeze it into a ball. Press the soil-blocking tool into the wet seed-starting mix, lift the tool over to a seed tray, and press the handle to release the blocks.

Mini Greenhouse

A mini greenhouse made from a clear plastic container allows seedlings to get enough light while holding in humidity to help germination. Recycled salad boxes work wonderfully, but you can choose any food-safe, clear plastic container that has a lid to hold in moisture.

Make this mini greenhouse by choosing a plastic box with a lid that works for you. Plant seeds directly into soil in the tray, or set newspaper pots, toilet tissue pots, or soil blocks in the tray. Cut a few holes in the lid for airflow. Remove the lid daily to allow air exchange, and water the seedlings from the bottom to prevent disrupting them. Remove the lid completely when the seedlings emerge and place the greenhouse in bright light.

Seed Bombs

Making seed bombs is a fun project to get the whole family thinking about how we can help the earth by renewing growth in barren landscapes. These seed bombs are simple to make and they are a creative handmade gift idea.

There are two basic recipes to make seed bombs: clay-based and paper-based. Both follow a similar method of creating a binding mix that sticks together when wet and which hardens to hold the seeds in place (until water is added later).

Create your own seed mix with a combination of annuals, biennials, and perennials for a garden that blooms in the first year and for many more.

How Many Seeds?

Seeds come in all shapes and sizes. As do plants. And plant spacing. So how do you know how many seeds to add to a seed bomb?

A pinch!

As a general rule of thumb, each seed bomb should contain a “pinch” of seeds, the number you can easily pick up with your thumb and forefinger. For larger seeds such as sunflowers and pumpkins, this could be just two seeds, but for smaller seeds such as poppies or lettuce, it could be ten seeds.

Press larger seeds right into the middle of the seed bomb. Smaller seeds can be mixed right into the basic recipe, and a few can even be pressed onto the outside of the seed bomb. The odds are that not all of the seeds will germinate as this form of guerilla gardening is a much looser way of planting than what’s recommended on a seed packet. Adding a few extra seeds and a variety of different seeds ensure that the seed bomb will have the best chance of growing into beautiful plants.

Clay-Based Seed Bomb Recipe

Clay-based seed bombs are a great way to get your hands dirty! They are made up of just four ingredients—powdered clay, compost, water, and seeds—making them approachable and fun to make for kids of all ages. Adding a few pretty seeds and dried flower petals to the outside makes them as decorative as they are functional. For example, Calendula seeds are curly, sunflowers have stripes, marigold seeds look like little porcupine quills, and Centaurea seeds look like gold and gray rockets. A variety of mixed seeds could look quite decorative.

Materials

5 parts finely screened compost

1 part bentonite clay (or substitute for another color of powdered clay)

Water

Seeds

Make It!

1. Mix the compost and bentonite clay in a bowl or bucket and add just enough water to make the mixture hold together.

2. Form into balls and add a pinch of seeds. Large seeds can be pushed into the middle of the ball while smaller seeds can be dispersed throughout the mix. Roll the ball between the palms of your hands to compact it and get a nice round shape.

3. If desired, roll the ball in a tray of dried flower petals, such as rose, calendula, and bachelor’s button, or add a few attractive seeds to the outside.

4. Set the seed balls on a tray in a cool, dry place out of direct sunlight to harden. The seed bombs have dried when they no longer feel cool to the touch and are quite hard.

Paper-Based Seed Bomb Recipe

Paper seed bombs open up a world of color options, and they are a lot less messy than the clay-based recipe. Plus, you can recycle a material that you surely have a lot of—paper! These bombs can be pressed into candy molds or ice cube trays for unique shapes.

Materials

Makes 12 ice cube-sized seed bombs.

8–10 sheets white paper

1–2 sheets dyed tissue paper

Water

Immersion blender with jar

Dish towel

Bowl

Seeds

Ice cube tray or candy mold

Make It!

1. Shred the paper using a paper shredder, scissors, or by hand. The paper can be printed with black or colored ink, but the more ink is used, the more it will affect the color of the seed bomb. A sheet or two of dyed tissue paper adds color to the seed bombs. Avoid using waxy paper, plastic envelope windows, or paper with staples.

2. Add the shredded paper to the immersion blender jar and pour in warm water to cover the paper. Allow the paper to sit in the water for 10 minutes to soften. Use the immersion blender to turn the paper into pulp until it is the consistency of oatmeal.

3. Set an open dish towel over a bowl large enough to capture all the excess water and pour the paper pulp into the center of the towel. Squeeze the towel to remove as much of the water as possible.

4. Mix the paper pulp with the seeds, approximately 1/4 teaspoon (1 ml) or 12 pinches of small seeds, using your hands. Press the pulp and seeds into an ice cube tray or candy mold.

5. Remove extra moisture from the pulp by pressing the molded mixture with a dry dish towel. Press firmly. This speeds up drying time and discourages seed germination.

6. Carefully remove the bombs from the mold and set on a board to dry.

Be the Birds

Many native plant species depend on birds and other animals to help spread their seeds. Tasty berries are gobbled up by our feathered friends who digest the sweet fruit and deposit the seeds some distance away from the source.

Even though the birds do it, please don’t start bombing your neighborhood and parks with seeds! The idea of this fun project is to help reintroduce species where they would have grown naturally. The best practice is to make seed bombs using native plants that grow well in your area. Many seed companies sell wildflower and pollinator mixes that are perfectly suited for seed bombs. Source seeds from a local seed company that specializes in the species of plants that thrive in your area. Trusted seed companies will not sell invasive species that could damage habitat. A little bit of research about the plants that are best for seed bombing in your area will go a long way.

Bombs Away!

If you thought making seed bombs was fun, wait until you plant them! Seed bombs are ideal for planting in large or hard-to-reach spaces such as meadows and ditches. Throw them far and try to hit solid ground; a slingshot can really send them flying.

Ideally, the bomb will break apart upon contact, but that’s not necessary for the seeds to grow. Flat-bottomed seeds will be able to stay on a hillside, while round balls can roll into hard to reach places. Have fun with planting and be sure to visit in a few weeks or months to see the fruits (or flowers) of your labor.

Seed Bomb Recipes

Pollinator Party

Anise Hyssop (Agastache ‘Blue Fortune’)

Annual Baby’s Breath (Gypsophila elegans)

Bachelor’s Button (Centaurea cyanus)

Borage (Borago officinalis)

Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa)

Common Milkweed (Asclepias syriaca)

Rocky Mountain Bee Plant (Cleome serrulata)

Spider Flower (Cleome hassleriana)

Wild Bergamot / Bee Balm (Monarda fistulosa)

Bee Blend

Bee Balm (Monarda spp.)

Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta)

Crimson Clover (Trifolium incarnatum)

French Lavender (Lavandula stoechas)

Lanceleaf Coreopsis (Coreopsis lanceolate)

Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)

Sunflower (Helianthus annuus)

Zinna (Zinnia elegans, Z. angustifolia)

Sweet Nectar Plants

Anise Hyssop (Agastache’ Blue Fortune’)

Bee Balm (Monarda spp.)

Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa)

Cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus)

French Lavender (Lavandula stoechas)

Faassens Catnip (Nepeta faasenii)

Salvia (Salvia coccinea)

Zinna (Zinnia elegans, Z. angustifolia)

Got the Blues

Baby Blue Eyes (Nemophila menziesii)

Bachelor’s Button (Centaurea cyanus)

Blue Flax (Linum lewisii)

Borage (Borago officinalis)

Forget-Me-Not (Myosotis sylvatica)

Love-in-a-Mist (Nigella damascena)

Cheery Annuals

Bachelor’s Button (Centaurea cyanus)

Calendula (Calendula officinalis)

California Poppy (Eschscholzia californica)

Cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus, C. suphureus)

Lupine (Lupinus spp.)

Marigold (Tagetes spp.)

Sunflower (Helianthus annuus)

Sweet Pea (Lathryrus odoratus)

Zinna (Zinnia elegans, Z. angustifolia)

Meadow Flowers

Bachelor’s Button (Centaurea cyanus)

Blue Flax (Linum lewisii)

Poppy (Papaver spp.)

Cosmos (Cosmos spp.)

Hollyhocks (Alcea spp.)

Love-in-a-Mist (Nigella damascena)

Prairie Coneflower (Ratibida columnifera)

Rocket Larkspur (Delphinium ajacis)

Scarlet Flax (Linum grandiflorum rubrum)

Siberian Wallflower (Cheiranthus allionii)

Sunflower (Helianthus annuus)

Sweet Alyssum (Lobularia maritima)

Heat Lovers

Amaranth (Amaranthus hypochondriacus)

Celosia (Celosia spicata)

French Lavender (Lavandula stoechas)

Persian Basil (Ocimum basilicum)

Salvia (Salvia coccinea)

Sunflower (Helianthus annuus)

Zinna (Zinnia elegans, Z. angustifolia)

Drought Tolerant

Annual Baby’s Breath (Gypsophilia elegans)

Blanket Flower (Gaillardia pulchella)

Blue Flax (Linum lewisii)

California Poppy (Eschscholzia californica)

Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)

Rocky Mountain Penstemon (Penstemon strictus)

Wild Bergamot / Bee Balm (Monarda fistulosa)

(Partly) Shady Characters

Annual Baby’s Breath (Gypsophila elegans)

Baby Blue Eyes (Nemophila menziesii)

Candytuft (Iberis umbellate)

Drummond Phlox (Phlox drummondi)

Forget-Me-Not (Myosotis sylvatica)

Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea)

Johnny-Jump-Up (Viola tricolor)

Lanceleaf Coreopsis (Coreopsis lanceolate)

Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)

Rocket Larkspur (Delphinium ajacis)

Sweet William Pinks (Dianthus barbatus)

Wild Columbine (Aquilegia vulgaris)

Herb Garden

Basil (Ocimum basilicum)

Bronze Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare ‘Purpureum’)

Chives (Allium schoenoprasum)

Dill (Anethum graveolens)

Italian Parsley (Petroselinum crispum)

Oregano (Origanum vulgare)

Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis)

Sage (Salvia officinalis)

Thyme (Thymus vulgaris)

Nature’s Medicine

Calendula (Calendula officinalis)

English Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)

Feverfew (Tanacetum parthenium)

German Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla)

Oregano (Origanum vulgare)

Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)

Sage (Salvia officinalis)

Yarrow (Achillea millefolium)

Groundcover

Creeping Thyme (Thymus serpyllum)

English Daisy (Bellis perennis)

Faassens Catnip (Nepeta faasenii)

Johnny-Jump-Up (Viola tricolor)

Red Clover (Trifolium pretense)

Roman Chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile)

Seed Tape, Mats, and Disks

Seed tape, mats, and disks describe the different shapes of a seed planting tool where seeds are evenly spaced over biodegradable paper to make planting easier. They’re a wonderful way to get ready for gardening before the season truly begins. They can be prepared in advance and stored so that when the soil is warm and ready for planting, you just roll out the seeds with perfect spacing every time.

How to Make Seed Tape

Materials

Toilet tissue

Flour

Water

Ruler

Paintbrush (fine tip)

Seeds

Make It!

1. Plan how long you want your seed tape to be. It could be in 12-inch (30-cm) strips that you can piece together in the garden or as long as your garden beds. Lay a strip of toilet tissue in your desired length. Fold the toilet paper in half lengthwise to mark the center point. Open the paper up again and lay it flat on a tabletop.

Mix equal parts flour and water to make a paste to affix the seeds to the paper.

2. Set a ruler on the center fold and use a paintbrush to dab dots of the flour-water paste in a line above the ruler, spacing the seeds as recommended on the seed packet. This line should approximately be in the middle of the top portion of the fold.

3. Place 1 seed on each dab of the flour-water paste. For very small seeds, dip the back end of the paintbrush into the paste and use it to pick up the seeds and attach them to the paper.

4. Use the paintbrush to apply the flour-water paste to the perimeter of one side of the paper, and then fold the two sides together.

5. Label the seed tape.

6. Allow the tape to dry completely and then wrap it around an empty toilet tissue roll for storage.

Seed Tape Recipes

Rainbow Carrots – mix heirloom red, yellow, orange, and purple carrots

Beets and Chard – alternate beets with chard on the seed tape

Lovely Lettuces – create a mesclun mix of leaf lettuces, arugula, and mustards in reds and greens

Zippy Zinnas – mix zinnia varieties by color, flower shape, and height

How to Make Seed Mats and Seed Disks

Making seed mats and disks is similar to making seed tape in different shapes. A seed mat in a rectangular or square shape can be useful for square foot planting and planning raised beds. Seed disks are round seed mats that are perfect for planting an instant container garden.

Materials

Unbleached paper dinner napkin or paper towel

Flour

Water

Paintbrush (fine tip)

Toothpick or bamboo skewer

Seeds

Make It!

1. Determine the dimensions and shape for your mats. Although each brand is different, a sheet or two of paper towel may be just the right dimensions for a square foot. A 6-inch (15-cm) four-fold napkin will unfold to a 12-inch (30-cm) square. A circle can be cut to fit inside a pot perfectly. There are so many options; simply prepare two pieces of paper in shapes you prefer.

2. Mix equal parts flour and water to make a paste to affix the seeds to the paper.

3. Lay a piece of paper on a flat surface and fold it to create a grid. Use a paintbrush to dab a bit of the flour-water paste where you want to plant the seeds, spacing them as recommended on the seed packet.

4. Place 1 seed on each dab of the flour-water paste. For very small seeds, dip the back end of the paintbrush into the paste and use it to pick up the seeds and attach them to the paper.

5. Use the paintbrush to apply the paste to the perimeter of the paper, and then place the second piece on top.

6. Label the paper.

7. Allow the mat or disk to dry completely and store until ready for planting.

Seed Mat and Disk Recipes

Annual Herbs (mat) – mix parsley, sweet basil, purple basil, and borage

Beets and Radishes (mat) – alternate beets and radishes. When the radishes are harvested, it will make room for the beets.

Oh, Kale Yeah! (mat) – mix red and green kale varieties

Salad Bowl (disk) – mix lettuces, bitter greens, herbs, and chives

Presto Pesto (disk) – mix sweet and purple basil varieties

Planting Seed Tape, Mats, and Disks

Prepare the soil for planting and add the seed tape, mat, or disk on the soil. Cover with a fine 1-inch (2.5-cm) layer of soil and water well. Keep the top of the soil consistently moist through germination and as seedlings develop roots.

Chamomile Tea to Treat Damping Off

Damping off is a fungal disease that appears as a fuzzy, moldlike growth on plant stems and seeds, and on soil, usually with seedlings started indoors or in a greenhouse that has high humidity. To prevent fungal growth on seedlings, use German chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla) tea.

Materials

1 part fresh chamomile or one-fourth part dried

3 parts rainwater or dechlorinated water

Make It!

1. There are two ways to make chamomile tea spray using either the fresh herb or the dried flowers. Only the flowers are used for making a flavored herbal tea for drinking, but you can include the leaves and stems for this recipe.

Fresh: Harvest fresh chamomile stems with leaves and flowers in the early morning when the flowers are at their peak of perfection. Make sun tea using fresh chamomile leaves and flowers in a Mason jar of water and set in the garden or on a sunny window to infuse for a day.

Dried: Brew a tea by pouring hot water over the dried flowers and letting it steep for 24 hours.

2. Strain the tea, cool, and use the mixture to water seedlings. Or add to a spray bottle to mist plants and the soil daily.

3. Chamomile tea can also be used as a foliar spray for preventing disease on established plants.

How to Dechlorinate Water

In many recipes in this book, water is noted as rainwater or dechlorinated water. Tap or garden water that comes from municipal sources is often treated with chlorine to remove and suppress microorganism growth. We want to encourage the growth of beneficial organisms as well as retain a plant’s herbal properties. If you don’t have a large enough supply of available rainwater, then allow water to sit in a wide-mouth bucket for 24 hours to allow the chlorine to evaporate or use boiled (and cooled) water.

Propagating Cuttings

Propagating cuttings is both an art and a science that is an easy and inexpensive way to multiply your stash of plants. There are a few different ways you can do it at home.

Rooting Cuttings in Water

Many houseplants, annuals, herbs, and vegetables with green, nonwoody stems can easily be rooted in water. Cut a 4- to 6-inch-long (10- to 15-cm-long) stem from the plant just below a bud using sharp, clean scissors or pruners. Strip off any lower leaves and flowers. Add the cutting to a glass of water and change the water daily for 3 to 4 weeks.

When roots grow to 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm), transfer the cutting to transplant potting soil mix. Keep the soil watered but free-draining, and place the cuttings in a bright spot. Some plants also benefit from having the stem and leaves pruned to send more energy to the root development while creating a denser and bushier new plant.

Self-Watering Planter to Root Cuttings in Soil

Woody plants often root better in soil than in water, but it can be a challenge to keep the right amount of moisture. Too much water can rot the stem and new roots, while too little will dry up the stem. Never fear, a self-watering windowsill planter can easily be made with a plastic soda bottle.

Materials

Plastic soda bottle with cap

Scissors or box cutter

Hammer and nail

Cotton string

Transplant potting soil mix (see here)

Plant cutting

Clear plastic bag

Make It!

1. Cut a clean plastic soda bottle in half (into a top and bottom) using scissors or a box cutter.

2. Use the hammer and nail to poke a hole through the top of the cap.

3. Cut a 6-inch (15-cm) length of thick gauge cotton string. Thread the string through the hole and knot it on the inside of the cap.

4. Twist the cap back on the bottle.

5. Fill the bottom half of the bottle with water.

6. Invert the top of the bottle and fill with moistened transplant potting soil mix. Be sure that 2 inches (5 cm) of the string are inside the soil, leaving the 4 (10 cm) remaining inches hanging down.

7. Place the top of the bottle into the bottom of the bottle, so that the string is immersed in the water.

8. Cut a 4- to 6-inch-long (10- to 15-cm-long) stem from the plant just below a bud using sharp, clean scissors or pruners. Strip off any lower leaves and flowers. Place cuttings in the soil and check often to ensure that the soil remains damp but not soggy.

9. Place a plastic bag or cloche over the cuttings to create a mini greenhouse and keep the humidity levels up.

10. Transplant the cuttings to pots or the garden when they have strong roots that resist when you gently tug at the stem.

Willow Water Rooting Hormone Recipe

Willow (Salix) branches are rich with the hormone indolebutyric acid (IBA), which stimulates rooting, and salicylic acid (SA), which protects the cutting from fungi and bacterial infections. Make willow branch tea as a homebrewed rooting stimulator for propagating cuttings.

Make It!

1. Harvest young branches of a willow tree, ideally first-year growth.

2. Remove and compost all of the leaves and cut the branches into 1-inch (2.5-cm) pieces.

3. Fill a jar half-full with branches and pour boiling water over the branches to fill the jar. Allow to steep overnight; strain the next day.

4. Soak new cuttings in willow water before rooting or use it to water cuttings. When rooting cuttings in water, dilute willow water to half-strength. Willow water can also be used to water seedlings. Store willow water in the refrigerator for up to 2 months.