Communes: There are several specifically defined parcels, but Listrac is the principal one
Average Annual Production: 300,000 cases
Classified Growths: None, but there are 29 Crus Bourgeois and 12 other estates, as well as one cooperative boasting 60 members
Principal Grape Varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, followed by Merlot, with lesser quantities of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot
Principal Soil Type: Clay, limestone, and gravel
MOULIS—AN OVERVIEW
Location: 18 miles northwest of Bordeaux, northwest of the Margaux appellation
Acres under Vine: 1,420
Communes: Moulis-en-Médoc and a handful of estates located in specific areas of Arcins, Castelnau, Lamarque, and Listrac-Médoc
Average Annual Production: 285,000 cases
Classified Growths: None, but there are 31 Crus Bourgeois and 13 other estates
Principal Grape Varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, followed by Merlot
Principal Soil Type: Limestone and sandy, gravelly, clay-like soils
HAUT-MÉDOC—AN OVERVIEW
Location: Just north of the city of Bordeaux, the lower two-thirds of the entire Médoc peninsula encompasses what is known as the Haut-Médoc appellation
Acres under Vine: 10,375
Communes: From north to south, the communes include St.-Seurin-de-Cadourne, Vertheuil, Cissac, St.-Sauveur, St.-Laurent, Cussac-Fort-Médoc, Lamarque, Arcins, Avensan, Castelnau-de-Médoc, Arsac, Macau, Le Pian-Médoc, Ludon, Parempuyre, Le Taillan, Blanquefort
Average Annual Production: In excess of 2 million cases
Classified Growths: Total of five, including third-growth Château La Lagune, fourth-growth Château La Tour Carnet, and three fifth-growths, Château Belgrave, Camensac, and Cantemerle. There are 140 Crus Bourgeois and 116 other estates, as well as five cooperatives.
Principal Grape Varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, followed by Merlot and Cabernet Franc
Principal Soil Type: Sandy, gravelly soil
MÉDOC—AN OVERVIEW
Location: The northern third of the peninsula north of Bordeaux is entitled to the Médoc appellation; its southern boundary begins approximately 30 miles north of the city of Bordeaux
Communes: From north to south, they are Ste.-Vivien-de-Médoc, Jau-Dignac-et-Loirac, Vensac, Valeyrac, Queyrac, Bégadan, St.-Christoly-Médoc, Civrac-en-Médoc, Couquèques, Prignac, Gaillanen, Lesparre, Blaignan, St.-Yzans-de-Médoc, Ordonnac, St.-Germain-d’Esteuil
Average Annual Production: 2,550,000 cases
Classified Growths: None, but there are 127 Crus Bourgeois and 113 other estates in addition to five cooperatives boasting more than 400 members
Principal Grape Varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon dominates, followed by Merlot and, to a lesser extent, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot
Principal Soil Type: There is far more diversity in the Médoc appellation than in Haut-Médoc, with considerable gravel, limestone, and sandy soils
A CONSUMER’S CLASSIFICATION OF THE CHÂTEAUX OF THE MÉDOC, HAUT-MÉDOC, LISTRAC, AND MOULIS
OUTSTANDING
Sociando-Mallet
EXCELLENT
Belle-Vue, Bernadotte Cambon La Pelouse, Charmail, Chasse-Spleen, Citran, d’Escurac, Haut-Condissas, Karolus, Lanessan, Maucaillou, Potensac, Poujeaux, La Tour Carnet, Tour Haut-Caussan, Tour du Haut-Moulin
VERY GOOD
Ducluzeau, Les Grands Chênes, Larose-Trintaudon, du Moulin Rouge, Les Ormes Sorbet, Peyredon Lagravette, Larose-Trintaudon, Rollan de By, La Tour St.-Bonnet
GOOD
Anthonic, Arnauld, Beaumont, Belgrave, Le Boscq, Branas Grand Poujeaux, Brillette, Camensac, La Cardonne, Caronne-Ste.-Gemme, Cissac, Clarke, Clément-Pichon, Coufran, Dutruch Grand Poujeaux, Fonréaud, Fourcas Dupré, Fourcas Hosten, Fourcas Loubaney, Gressier Grand Poujeaux, Greysac, Lamarque, Lestage, Liversan, Magnol, Malescasse, Mayne Lalande, Moulin à Vent, Patache d’Aux, Plagnac, Sansarot-Dupré, Ségur, Sémeillan-Mazeau, Sénéjac, Soudars, La Tour de By, Verdignan, Vieux Robin
OTHER NOTABLE PROPERTIES
d’Agassac, Bel Orme Tronquoy de Lalande, Clos des Demoiselles, Duplessis, Duplessis Fabré, Hanteillan, Loudenne, Moulis, Peyrabon, Ramage La Bâtisse, Villegeorge
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Ludon-Médoc
Owner: Groupama Assurances
Address: 15, rue du Château d’Agassac, 33290 Ludon-Médoc
Telephone: 05 57 88 15 47; Telefax: 05 57 88 17 61
E-mail: contact@agassac.com
Website: www.agassac.com
Visits: By appointment only Monday to Friday, 9 A.M.–noon and 2–5 P.M.
Contact: Emmanuelle Plougouln or Jean-Luc Zell
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 93.3 acres
Grape varietals: 50% Merlot, 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc
Average age of vines: 25 years
Density of plantation: 6,650 vines per hectare
Average yields: 41 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentation and three week maceration in temperature-controlled vats. Malolactics in barrel for part of the yield. Fifteen months aging on lees with regular stirring in barrels that are renewed by a third at each vintage. Fining, light filtration upon bottling.
WINES PRODUCED
Château d’Agassac: 165,000 bottles
Château Pomiès d’Agassac: 55,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 4–10 years of the vintage
This property, one of only two (the other is La Lagune) to be located on the sandy soils of Ludon, is in the southermost part of the Médoc.
The wines of d’Agassac have had a track record of inconsistency despite relatively low yields and a conservative and traditional vinification. Robust, frequently lacking charm and fruit, it is a wine to drink within the first decade of life. The best recent vintages have been 1990, 1989, and 1982, which is now beginning to tire. I found the 1988, 1986, and 1983 indifferent winemaking efforts.
Visitors to the region are well advised to make a detour and go inland from the famous D2 to visit d’Agassac, as it represents a superb example of a medieval fortified castle. The edifice, accessible via multiple tours, is one of the most impressive in the Bordeaux region.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Owner: Jean-Baptiste Cordonnier
Address: 33480 Moulis
Telephone: 05 56 58 34 60; Telefax: 05 56 58 72 76
E-mail: chateau.anthonic@terre-net.fr
Visits: By appointment only
Contact: Jean-Baptiste Cordonnier
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 71.6 acres
Grape varietals: 50.1% Merlot, 47.8% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2.1% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 20 years
Density of plantation: 6,700–10,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 56 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentation with three daily pumpings-over and 21–25 day maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Eighteen months aging with 12 months in barrels that are renewed by a third at each vintage. Fining, filtration depending upon the vintage.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Anthonic: 150,000 bottles
Les Aigles d’Anthonic: 12,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–10 years of the vintage
I have had the occasion to taste numerous vintages of Anthonic, and I have been duly impressed by the stylish, elegant character of these wines. The vineyard is still young, but it is well placed near the more famous Château Clarke. Proprietor Cordonnier utilizes stainless-steel tanks and 30% new oak each year.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Arcins
Owner: SCEA Theil-Roggy
Address: 33460 Margaux
Telephone: 05 57 88 89 10; Telefax: 05 57 88 50 35
Visits: Monday to Saturday, 9 A.M.–noon and 2–6 P.M.
Contact: François Theil
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 59.3 acres
Grape varietals: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot
Average age of vines: 25 years
Density of plantation: 6,600 vines per hectare
Average yields: 56 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentations and macerations last approximately four weeks in concrete and stainless-steel tanks. After malolactics in vats, wines are aged 12 months in oak barrels (40% new oak). They are fined and filtered.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Arnauld: 120,000 bottles
Le Comte d’Arnauld: 60,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–8 years of the vintage
North on the famous D2, just past the village of Arcins, is Château Arnauld. This property is owned by the Theil-Roggy family, who long ago established the reputation of Château Poujeaux in nearby Moulis for one of the most distinctive wines of the Médoc.
The wine produced at Arnauld is less structured, no doubt reflecting the elevated percentage of Merlot (50%) used in the blend. Consequently, Arnauld, for all the attractive, rich fruit, is a wine to be drunk in its first 7–8 years of life. It has been well made since the early 1980s, with the better Bordeaux vintages offering wines that are supple, exceptionally fruity, and with good color, yet limited long-term aging potential. Prices, however, remain reasonable for this tasty wine.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: St.-Seurin-de-Cadourne
Owner: Jean-Michel Quié
Address: Chemin de la Hontête, 33180 St.-Seurin-de-Cadourne
Telephone: 05 56 59 38 29; Telefax: 05 56 59 72 83
Visits: By appointment only every day, 9 A.M.–noon and 1:30–6 P.M. at Château Croizet-Bages (Pauillac).
Contact: Martine Dausson (Telephone: 05 56 59 66 69)
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 74.1 acres
Grape varietals: 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc
Average age of vines: 35 years
Density of plantation: 6,500 and 10,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 55 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Three to four week fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Six months aging in vats followed by 12 months aging in barrels (renewed by a fifth at each vintage) after assemblage. Fining, filtration upon bottling.
Château Bel Orme Tronquoy de Lalande: 160,000 bottles
No second wine is produced.
Plateau of maturity: Within 5–15 years of the vintage
I remember a profound 1945 Bel Orme Tronquoy de Lalande drunk on New Year’s Day 1985. I also have good notes on the 1982 and, more recently, an opulent, chewy, full-bodied 1989 and 1990. But generally, my experience with this property, located in the very northern part of the Médoc near the village of St.-Seurin-de-Cadourne, has been uninspiring.
In the 1980s and 1990s the ancient style of winemaking, which combined immense power and excruciatingly painful tannin levels, gave way to a more supple style that often resulted in wines lacking concentration and character.
Classification: Fifth growth in 1855
Location of vineyards: St.-Laurent du Médoc
Owner: SC du Château Belgrave
Farmed by: Dourthe Frères
Address: 33112 St.-Laurent du Médoc
Mailing address: c/o Dourthe, 35, rue de Bordeaux, 33290 Parempuyre
Telephone: 05 56 35 53 00; Telefax: 05 56 35 53 29
E-mail: contact@cvbg.com
Visits: By appointment only. No visits on weekends or at harvest time.
Contact: Marie-Hélène Inquimbert
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 135.9 acres
Grape varietals: 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 25 years
Density of plantation: 6,500 and 9,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 46 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Cold maceration. Fermentation with 3–5 daily pumpings-over and maceration in temperature-controlled vats. Part of yield undergoes malolactics in barrels. Fifteen to eighteen months aging in barrels (part of yield ages on lees) with 40–60% new oak. Fining if necessary, no filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Belgrave: 230,000 bottles
Diane de Belgrave: 135,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 5–12 years of the vintage
When the huge firm of Dourthe (or C.V.B.G., as it is known in Bordeaux) acquired this property in 1980, it was one of the Médoc’s most-neglected estates. The owners made significant investments, and the property is now a showpiece château that also provides lodging for Dourthe’s best clients. Michel Rolland is the consulting oenologist, and there have been major replantings of the vineyard to lower the exceptionally high percentage of Merlot and increase the percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon.
There was little noticeable improvement in the wines, however, until Michel Rolland, the famed Libourne oenologist, was hired to provide counseling for the winemaking, too. Since that time, Belgrave has taken on more color, depth, and ripeness.
I still wonder whether or not Belgrave will improve to the point where it again can be considered the qualitative equivalent of a fifth growth. That said, the 2000 is the finest Belgrave I have ever tasted.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: St.-Christoly
Owner: Jean-Michel Lapalu
Address: 33340 St.-Christoly de Médoc
Mailing address: Domaines Lapalu, 1, rue du 19 mars, 33340 Bégadan
Telephone: 05 56 41 50 18; Telefax: 05 56 41 54 65
E-mail: info@domaines-lapalu.com
Website: www.domaines-lapalu.com
No visits
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 66.7 acres
Grape varietals: 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc,
Average age of vines: 25 years
Density of plantation: 7,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 57 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Four to five week fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel and wooden vats. Twelve months aging in barrels that are renewed by 15–20% each year. Fining, light filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Le Boscq Vieilles Vignes: 50,000 bottles
Château Le Boscq: 120,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–7 years of the vintage
This is a reliable Cru Bourgeois made from a vineyard sandwiched between the two excellent Cru Bourgeois vineyards of La Tour de By and La Tour St.-Bonnet near the village of St.-Christoly. The estate is managed by Jean-Michel Lapalu, who also owns the more-famous Patache d’Aux. The style sought at Le Boscq is one of unbridled, up-front, in-your-face fruit and suppleness. Consequently, this is a wine to drink in its first 3–7 years. The vineyard is harvested by mechanical machines, and the vinification and upbringing of the wine are designed to put a wine in the bottle that is drinkable immediately.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Owner: Justin Onclin
Address: Grand Poujeaux, 33480 Moulis en Médoc
Telephone: 05 56 58 08 62; Telefax: 05 56 58 08 62
Visits: By appointment only
Contact: Luc Pasqueron de Fommervault (Telephone: 06 13 32 11 56)
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 13.6 acres
Grape varietals: 50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 28 years
Density of plantation: 7,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 60 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled wooden vats. Malolactics and 15–18 months aging in barrels with 80% new oak. No fining, no filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Branas Grand Poujeaux: 10,000 bottles
No second wine is produced.
Plateau of maturity: Within 6–15 years of the vintage
Note: This estate was recently sold to Justin Onclin (manager of Prieuré-Lichine) and Michel Rolland has been brought in as consulting oenologist.
This is one of the smallest and least known of the Moulis properties. However, in the vintages I have tasted, the wines have exhibited a great deal of full-bodied flavor concentration and the potential for 10–15 years of longevity.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Moulis
Owner: Jean-Louis Flageul
Address: 33480 Moulis-en-Médoc
Telephone: 05 56 58 22 09; Telefax: 05 56 58 12 26
E-mail: secretariat@chateau-brillette.fr
Visits: Monday to Friday, 9 A.M.–noon and 2–5 P.M.
Contact: Yann Olivier
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 98.8 acres
Grape varietals: 48% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 45 years
Density of plantation: 7,142 vines per hectare
Average yields: 45 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentation and 3–4 week maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Twelve months aging in barrels that are renewed by a third each year. No fining, filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Brillette: 150,000 bottles
Château Berthault Brillette: 50,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 7–10 years of the vintage
Just about one kilometer north of the town of Moulis-en-Médoc is the vast, 374-acre estate of Brillette, which has only 98.8 acres under vine. The wines of Brillette are not yet well known, but the quality of winemaking is high and the wines are made in a spicy, oaky, rich, fruity style that appeals to many tasters.
Brillette’s vineyard, which remains relatively young—with the great majority of it planted in the 1960s and 1970s—is one entire parcel located on gravelly, sandy soil. Since the early 1980s the grapes have been harvested by machine. One-third new oak is used each year, which no doubt gives the wine a telltale smoky, toasty character.
This is a wine for those who admire a hefty dose of oak in their wines. It is best drunk within a decade of the vintage.
Classification: Fifth Growth in 1855
Location of vineyards: St.-Laurent du Médoc
Owner: GFA du Château Camensac
Address: Route de St.-Julien, 33112 St.-Laurent du Médoc
Mailing address: BP 9, 33112 St.-Laurent du Médoc
Telephone: 05 56 59 41 69; Telefax: 05 56 59 41 73
E-mail: chateaucamensac@wanadoo.fr
Website: www.chateaucamensac.com
Visits: By appointment only
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 185.2 acres
Grape varietals: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot
Average age of vines: 35 years
Density of plantation: 10,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 45 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentation and 18–21 day maceration. Eighteen months aging in barrels with 35% new oak. Fining and filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Camensac: 280,000 bottles
La Closerie de Camensac: 80,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 5–14 years of the vintage
Camensac is among the least known of the 1855 classified growths. No doubt its location, well inland and west of St.-Julien in the commune of St.-Laurent, explains in part the relative obscurity. In addition, the record of mediocrity, unchanged until the 1970s certainly added to a general lack of interest. However, things have changed for the better at Camensac.
The individuals responsible for the revival of Camensac are the Forner brothers, who purchased this estate in 1965 and set about the expensive task of replanting the vineyards and renovating the chai and winemaking facilities. The Forners are best known for the modern-style wines made at their winery called Marqués de Cacères located in the Rioja region of Spain.
Camensac’s wines have lightened up in style and emphasize more suppleness and fruit. Even though Camensac is now making better wines, they are not representative of fifth-growth quality. They do have a certain St.-Julien-like personality, with good fruit, medium body, and enough tannin to warrant a decade of cellaring in good vintages. In my tastings during the late 1980s many bottles had a damp cardboard-like smell, but that problem was rectified in the 1990s. The wines possess good concentration and a straightforward, foursquare style.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Blaignan and Ordonnac
Owner: Domaines CGR
Address: 33340 Blaignan
Mailing address: Les Domaines CGR, 40, rue Notre-Dame des Victoires, 75002 Paris
Telephone: 05 56 73 31 51 or 01 42 21 11 80; Telefax: 05 56 73 31 52 or 01 42 21 11 85
E-mail: gcharloux@domaines-cgr.com
Website: www.chateau-griviere.com
Visits: Monday to Friday, 8:30 A.M.–12:30 P.M. and 1:30–5 P.M.
Contact: Annelis Bosq (Telephone: 05 56 73 31 51; Telefax: 05 56 73 31 52)
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 197.6 acres
Grape varietals: 50% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc
Average age of vines: 20 years
Density of plantation: 7,500 vines per hectare
Average yields: 59 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks. Twelve months aging in barrels that are renewed by half each year. Fining, filtration not systematic.
WINES PRODUCED
Château La Cardonne: 400,000 bottles
Cardus: Variable
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–6 years of the vintage
Immense optimism sprang forth in 1973 when the Rothschild family (owners of such famed Pauillacs as Lafite Rothschild and Duhart-Milon) acquired this property in Blaignan. It is a huge enterprise, and the wine is made in a relatively light, indifferent, yet commercially correct style. I have always maintained that the enormous yields and heavy reliance on filtration rob this wine of much concentration and character. It is a wine that must be drunk within 5–6 years of the vintage. Given the level of quality, it is overpriced, but I did think the fine 1990 was the best wine I have yet tasted from this estate. The Rothschilds sold the estate in 1990 to Gaëton Charloux, who has made significant improvements. In particular, the 2000 and 2001 were both noteworthy efforts.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: St.-Laurent du Médoc
Owner: Jean and François Nony
Address: 33112 St.-Laurent du Médoc
Mailing address: SCE des Vignobles Nony-Borie, 73, quai des Chartrons, 33000 Bordeaux
Telephone: 05 67 87 56 81; Telefax: 05 56 51 71 51
Visits: By appointment only
Contact: François Nony
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 111.2 acres
Grape varietals: 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 30 years
Density of plantation: 10,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 59 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentation and 25–30 day maceration in stainless-steel and concrete vats. Twelve months aging in barrels with 25% new oak. Fining and filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Caronne Ste.-Gemme: 266,000 bottles
Parc Rouge de Caronne: 64,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 4–8 years of the vintage
This estate in St.-Laurent receives little publicity. For both tourists and writers who desire to visit, the property is virtually impossible to find on the back roads of the Médoc. Moreover, the wine is hardly an inspiring gustatory pleasure. In my limited experience with this label, I have found the wine to be generally dark in color, with a good bouquet and a solid, rather rustic taste with no shortage of tannin.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: St.-Seurin-de-Cadourne
Owner: Olivier Sèze
Address: Charmail 33180 St.-Seurin-de-Cadourne
Telephone: 05 56 59 70 63; Telefax: 05 56 59 39 20
Visits: By appointment only Monday to Friday, 9 A.M.–noon and 1–5 P.M.
Contact: Olivier Sèze
Surface area: 55.6 acres
Grape varietals: 50% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc
Average age of vines: 25 years
Density of plantation: 6,700–8,300 vines per hectare
Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fifteen day cold maceration at 5°C. Fermentation and three-week maceration in temperature-controlled vats. Twelve months aging in barrels with 35% new oak. No fining, no filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Charmail: 105,000 bottles
Tours de Charmail: 40,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 5–15 years of the vintage
These singular wines, fermented under cold nitrogen (at 5°C for 15 days), are revolutionary in their fruit intensity and richness for Haut-Médoc. Made from a blend of 50% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 20% Cabernet Franc, from a property that does not possess one of the finest terroirs, these wines continue to amaze me with their inky intensity, purity, and richness. Given the high quality of recent efforts, this property is well on its way to meriting a position alongside the likes of Sociando-Mallet. The 2001, 2000, 1999, 1996, and 1995 are all brilliant wines.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Moulis
Owner: SA du Château Chasse-Spleen
Address: 33480 Moulis
Telephone: 05 56 58 02 37; Telefax: 05 56 58 05 70
Visits: By appointment only
Contact: Claire Villars
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 197.6 acres
Grape varietals: 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 30 years
Density of plantation: 10,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentations and macerations last 3–4 weeks in temperature-controlled stainless-steel and concrete (epoxy-lined) tanks. Wines are aged 14–18 months in oak barrels that are renewed by 40% at each vintage. They are fined but remain unfiltered.
Château Chasse-Spleen: 280,000 bottles
L’Ermitage de Chasse-Spleen: 150,000 bottles
L’Oratoire de Chasse-Spleen: 150,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 5–18 years of the vintage
An outstanding property, Chasse-Spleen has consistently produced fine wine that for the last three decades has often been as good as a third growth. Even in poor and mediocre vintages, the wine is characterized by a very pronounced, deep ruby color, a bouquet of plummy ripeness, and rich, round, substantial flavors.
The great vintages for Chasse-Spleen, in which the wine can compare favorably with top Médoc classified growths, are 2000, 1990, 1989, 1986, 1985, 1978, 1975, 1970, and 1966.
Chasse-Spleen was owned by the Lahary family until 1976, when it was purchased by a syndicate whose controlling interest was the Société Bernard Taillan. The director of the firm, Jacques Merlaut, has made many intelligent decisions with respect to the administration of this château. The results have been increasingly inspired wines, with absolutely top-class wines in the late 1980s. The vineyard, consisting of four parcels, sits on primarily deep, gravelly soil and boasts many old vines; their average age is an impressive 35 years. This is a property that still adheres to very traditional practices. It is one of only a handful in the Médoc that does not filter after either the malolactic fermentation or before bottling. In fact, the only compromise toward modern-day technology is that part of the crop gets harvested by machine. Improvements under Claire Villars are obvious with the introduction of a second wine, the increased usage of 50% new oak casks for aging, and the impeccable attention to every detail. Prices have jumped as the world has begun to discover that Chasse-Spleen was undervalued.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Cissac Médoc
Owner: Vialard family
Address: 33250 Cissac Médoc
Telephone: 05 56 59 58 13; Telefax: 05 56 59 55 67
E-mail: marie.vialard@chateau-cissac.com
Website: www.chateau-cissac.com
Visits: Monday to Friday, 9 A.M.–noon and 2–5 P.M.
Contact: Marie Vialard
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 123.5 acres
Grape varietals: 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 30 years
Density of plantation: 7,200 vines per hectare
Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Three to four week fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel and wooden vats. Eighteen to twenty-four months aging in barrels with 30–40% new oak. Fining and filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Cissac: 160,000 bottles
Reflets du Château Cissac: 120,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 7–15 years of the vintage
The proprietor of Cissac, the Vialard family, is one of Bordeaux’s most dedicated. Consequently, their beloved Château Cissac produces one of the best Bourgeois wines of the central Médoc.
Located just north of the town of Cissac, this property produces approximately 18,000 cases of very traditional, full-bodied, tannic, interesting, darkly colored wine. Normally unyielding and reserved when young, Cissac begins to show its true character at around age six and can easily age and improve in the bottle for 10–15 years.
The wine of Cissac is especially popular in England and seems to have a growing following among American connoisseurs who have the patience to wait for its slow (for a Cru Bourgeois) but sure evolution.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Avensan
Owner: SA Château Citran, Merlaut family
Address: Chemin de Citran, 33480 Avensan
Telephone: 05 56 58 21 01; Telefax: 05 57 88 84 60
E-mail: info@citran.com
Website: www.citran.com
Visits: By appointment only Monday to Friday, 9 A.M.–noon and 2–5 P.M.
Contact: Pascale Thiel
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 222.3 acres
Grape varietals: 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot
Average age of vines: 28 years
Density of plantation: 6,600 vines per hectare
Average yields: 43 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Twenty-four day fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Twelve to fourteen months aging in barrels with 40% new oak. Fining and filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Citran: 300,000 bottles
Moulins de Citran: 200,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 6–14 years of the vintage
In the ten years (1987–1997) following the acquisition of Citran by a Japanese syndicate, the quality of this estate’s wines soared. In spite of their success, Citran was sold to the Société Bernard Taillan, run by the dynamic Jacques Merlaut. The renovation of the cellars, the commitment of the new owners, an increased percentage of new oak, a stricter selection process (and subsequent second wine), and excellent overall administration have resulted in glorious wines over recent years. If there is any criticism, it would be that the elevated use of new oak gives the wine such a dramatic, smoky, even charred character that those who admire Claret for delicacy and subtlety might be put off by its flamboyant boldness.
Nevertheless, the new vintages should age well for up to a decade and are considerably more interesting and pleasurable than anything Citran previously produced. It should also be noted that prices have edged up to take into account the new designer bottle with its striking label that has replaced the old, traditional, somber Château Citran package. This is one of the finest Cru Bourgeois estate, often making wines of classified growth quality. Vintages such as 2000, 1996, 1990, and 1989 are topflight.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Listrac
Owner: Baron Benjamin de Rothschild
Address: 33480 Listrac-Médoc
Telephone: 05 56 58 38 00; Telefax: 05 56 58 26 46
Visits: By appointment and for professionals of the wine trade only
Contact: Hélène Combabessouse
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 133.4 acres
Grape varietals: 70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon
Average age of vines: 22–25 years
Density of plantation: 6,600 vines per hectare
Average yields: 49 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Cold maceration. Fermentation and 25–30 day maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats with pumpings-over, pigéages, and micro-oxygenation. Malolactics and 16 months aging in barrels with 60–80% new oak. Fining and filtration depend upon the vintage.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Clarke: 250,000 bottles
Les Grandes des Domaines Edmond de Rothschild: Variable (Haut-Médoc)
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–7 years of the vintage
One of the most remarkable developments in the Médoc has been the complete restoration and rejuvenation of the old vineyard of Château Clarke. The property boasts a history dating to 1750, and it took the considerable resources of a wealthy member of the famous Rothschild family—the late Baron Edmond de Rothschild—to accomplish the resurrection. In 1973 work began, and in the following five years the area under vine increased dramatically to 136 acres, large enough to have the potential to produce more than 20,000 cases of wine. The first wines released, a 1978 and 1979, were given a great deal of hoopla from the wine press, but in actuality they were light, medium-bodied examples that clearly tasted like the product of a young vineyard. However, the commitment to high quality, the financial resources, and the management are all present, so as the vineyard matures, Château Clarke should become one of the more reliable wines made in Listrac.
Château Clarke also produces a delicious dry rosé and a kosher cuvée (made according to strict Jewish requirement) of its red wine.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Parempuyre
Owner: Clément Fayat
Address: 33290 Parempuyre
Telephone: 05 56 35 23 79; Telefax: 05 56 35 85 23
E-mail: info@vignobles.fayat-group.com
Visits: By appointment Monday to Friday, 9 A.M.–noon and 2–6 P.M.
Contact: Sandrine Aucher
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 61.8 acres
Grape varietals: 50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc
Average age of vines: 20 years
Density of plantation: 6,500 vines per hectare
Average yields: 45 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Cold maceration. Fermentation with 3–4 daily pumpings-over and 25–30 day maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Part of yield undergoes malolactics in barrels. Eighteen months aging in barrels with 50–70% new oak. Fining and filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Clément-Pichon: 110,000 bottles
La Motte de Clément-Pichon: 20,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–8 years of the vintage
This beautiful château, located just to the north of Bordeaux near the sprawling industrial suburb of Parempuyre, is owned by one of the most driven proprietors of the region, Clément Fayat, an industrialist who also has been responsible for the renaissance of the famed St.-Emilion vineyard La Dominique. Fayat totally renovated the château, which formerly was known as Château de Parempuyre, and originally renamed it Château Pichon. However, that caused legal problems with Madame de Lencquesaing, who felt the name could be confused with her Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande. The name was then changed to Château Clément-Pichon.
The huge baroque and gothic château was constructed at the end of the 19th century and is now inhabited by the Fayat family, who purchased this domaine in 1976. They totally replanted the vineyards, which, consequently, are extremely young. The Fayats were shrewd enough to ask their oenologist at La Dominique, the famed Libournais Michel Rolland, to look after the winemaking at Clément-Pichon. He has performed miracles with a vineyard this young. No doubt Rolland realized the limitations of making a true vin de garde and to date has emphasized wines with an up-front, exceptionally fruity, supple style that are meant to be consumed young.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: St.-Seurin-de-Cadourne
Owner: Jean Miailhe group
Address: 33180 St.-Seurin-de-Cadourne
Telephone: 05 56 59 31 02; Telefax: 05 56 59 32 35
E-mail: contact@chateau-coufran.com
Visits: By appointment only. No visits in August or at harvest time.
Contact: Eric Miailhe (Telephone: 05 56 59 72 39)
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 187.7 acres
Grape varietals: 85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon
Average age of vines: 35–40 years
Density of plantation: 8,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 54 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentation and 30 day maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Eight to ten months aging in barrels that are renewed by a quarter at each vintage. Fining and filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Coufran: 500,000 bottles
Château La Rose Maréchale: 50,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–12 years of the vintage
The large vineyard of Coufran is situated three miles north of the boundary of St.-Estèphe, contiguous to Route D2 after passing through the village of St.-Seurin-de-Cadourne. Since 1924 the property has been in the Miailhe family, a prominent name in the promotion of quality among Crus Bourgeois of Bordeaux, and is now run by them.
The most distinctive aspect of Coufran is the high percentage of Merlot used in the blend, which the proprietors have decided succeeds well in the heavier, thicker soils common to this part of the Médoc. This has led some people to rashly conclude that the wine is drinkable upon release. I have not found that to be the case. In top vintages, Coufran is often supple and fruity in cask but can go into a dumb, tannic stage in the bottle. The wine is a good Médoc, but the yields are extremely high, and again, one wonders whether the property’s use of machine harvesters has any effect on the ultimate quality.
Over the last few years, 2000, 1996, 1995, and 1990 stand out for quality.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Listrac
Owner: GFA du Château Ducluzeau
Mailing address: c/o J.E. Borie S.A. 33480 Listrac
Telephone: 05 56 73 16 73; Telefax: 05 56 59 27 37
E-mail: je-borie@je-borie-sa.com
No visits
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 12.8 acres
Grape varietals: 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon
Average age of vines: 35 years
Density of plantation: 10,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Three to four week fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled vats. Twelve months aging in barrels with 25% new oak. Fining, filtration depends upon the vintage.
Château Ducluzeau: 35,000 bottles
No second wine is produced.
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–10 years of the vintage
This property, owned by Monique Borie, the wife of the deceased proprietor of Ducru-Beaucaillou, Haut-Batailley, and Grand-Puy-Lacoste, has, to my knowledge, the highest percentage of Merlot of any wine of the Médoc. The result is an extremely supple yet deliciously round, seductive wine with a great deal of charm and elegance. This wine has been estate bottled since 1976.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Moulis
Owner: Marie-Laure Lurton-Roux
Address: 2036 Chalet, 33480 Moulis-en-Médoc
Telephone: 05 56 58 22 01; Telefax: 05 56 58 15 10
E-mail: lgcr@wanadoo.fr
Visits: By appointment only
Contact: Viviane Grouffier
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 47.6 acres
Grape varietals: 60% Merlot, 26% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 25 years
Density of plantation: 6,667 and 10,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 52 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentation and 15–28 day maceration in temperature-controlled vats. Eighteen months aging, with six months in vats and eight to twelve months in barrel with 20–25% new oak. Fining and filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Duplessis: 74,800 bottles
Château La Licorne de Duplessis: 32,700 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 4–10 years of the vintage
This property, sometimes called Duplessis-Hauchecorne (after one of the former owners), now belongs to the ubiquitous family of Lucien Lurton. The wine is typical of an older-styled Moulis—coarse, robust, and lacking charm and fruit.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Moulis
Owner: Philippe Dourthe
Address: 33480 Moulis-en-Médoc
Mailing address: c/o SARL Maucaillou, 33480 Moulis-en-Médoc
Telephone: 05 56 58 01 23; Telefax: 05 56 58 00 88
Visits: Every day, 10 A.M.–noon and 2–6 P.M.
Contact: Philippe Dourthe
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 6.2 acres
Grape varietals: 55% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon
Average age of vines: 20 years
Density of plantation: 8,300 vines per hectare
Average yields: 57 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Cold maceration. Fermentation at low temperatures and 20 day maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks. Fifteen to eighteen months aging in barrels with 30% new oak. Fining and filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Duplessis Fabré: 18,000 bottles
No second wine is produced.
Plateau of maturity: Within 5–10 years of the vintage
In 1989 this property was sold by the Pagès family to Philippe Dourthe of Château Maucaillou. There is plenty of potential for a more interesting wine to be produced, which should happen given the quality of this estate’s bigger sibling, Maucaillou.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Moulis
Owner: François and Jean-Baptiste Cordonnier
Address: 33480 Moulis-en-Médoc
Telephone: 05 56 58 02 55; Telefax: 05 56 58 06 22
E-mail: chateau-dutruch@aquinet.net
Visits: Monday to Friday, 9:30 A.M.–noon and 2–5 P.M.
Contact: François and Jean-Baptiste Cordonnier
Surface area: 69.2 acres
Grape varietals: 50% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 29 years
Density of plantation: 8,500 and 10,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 52 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentation (21–25°C) and 21–25 day maceration in temperature-controlled vats. Twelve months aging in barrels that are renewed by a third at each vintage. Fining, no filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Dutruch Grand Poujeaux: 129,000 bottles
Château La Bernède Grand Poujeaux: 40,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 6–12 years of the vintage
Dutruch Grand Poujeaux, like so many wines of Moulis, often lack a great deal of charm when young. Unlike some neighbors, this is one wine that can have the requisite concentration and depth to stand up to the tannin. After 5–7 years, I have often been pleased by just how well this wine turns out. Part of the reason for the excellent concentration is not only the respectable age of the vines, but the fact that much of this vineyard is planted by the ancient system of 10,000 vines per hectare, as opposed to the more conventional 6,600 vines per hectare. This, of course, is believed to create more stress, resulting in more concentrated grapes.
This is an underrated, impressively run property that merits more attention.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Listrac-Médoc and Moulis
Owner: Chanfreau family
Address: 33480 Listrac-Médoc
Telephone: 05 56 58 02 43; Telefax: 05 56 58 04 33
E-mail: vignobles.chanfreau@wanadoo.fr
Website: www.chateau-fonreaud.com
Visits: Monday to Friday, 9 A.M.–noon and 2–5 P.M.
Contact: Jean Chanfreau
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 79 acres
Grape varietals: 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 30 years
Density of plantation: 6,666 vines per hectare
Average yields: 45 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Two to three day cold maceration at 12°C. Fermentation and 25–30 day maceration in temperature-controlled concrete vats. Twelve months aging on fine lees in barrels that are renewed by a third at each vintage. Fining depends upon the vintage, no filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Fonréaud: 140,000 bottles
Les Tourelles de Château Fonréaud: 60,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 5–7 years of the vintage
This impressively symmetrical white château, with a dominating center turret and spire, sits on the left-hand side of Route D1 as one leaves the tiny village of Bouqueyran in the direction of Lesparre. Since 1982 the property has been owned by the Chanfreau family, who also control the nearby Château Lestage.
The style emphasized is one of soft, fruity, immediately drinkable wines that are limited to 6–7 years of aging ability. The high percentage of Merlot, as well as the owner’s decision to age the wine for six months in oak casks and six months in cuvées, results in a soft, round wine with immediate appeal. The best recent vintages have been 2000, 1996, and 1995.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Listrac-Médoc
Owner: SC du Château Fourcas Dupré
Address: Le Fourcas, 33480 Listrac-Médoc
Telephone: 05 56 58 01 07; Telefax: 05 56 58 02 27
E-mail: chateau-fourcas-dupre@wanadoo.fr
Website: www.chateaufourcasdupre.com
Visits: Monday to Friday, 8 A.M.–noon and 2–5 P.M.
Contact: Patrice Pagès (director) or Gilles Bererot (cellar master)
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 113.6 acres
Grape varietals: 44% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 25+ years
Density of plantation: 8,500 vines per hectare
Average yields: 54 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentation with daily pumpings-over and 2–4 week maceration in temperature-controlled vats. Twelve months aging in barrels that are renewed by a third each year. Fining, no filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Fourcas Dupré: 240,000–250,000 bottles
Château Bellevue Laffont: 50,000–60,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 5–10 years of the vintage
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Listrac
Owner: SC du Château Fourcas Hosten
Address: 33480 Listrac-Médoc
Telephone: 05 56 58 01 15; Telefax: 05 56 58 06 73
E-mail: fourcas@club.inter.net
Website: www.chateaufourcashosten.com
Visits: Preferably by appointment Monday to Friday, 9 A.M.–noon and 2–5 P.M.
Contact: Annette Monge
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 115.3 acres
Grape varietals: 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc
Average age of vines: 25 years
Density of plantation: 8,500 vines per hectare
Average yields: 54 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Three to five week fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled vats with regular pumpings-over. Twelve months aging in barrels that are renewed by a third at each vintage. Fining, no filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Fourcas Hosten: 260,000 bottles
Les Cèdres d’Hosten: 60,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 5–10 years of the vintage
The style of Fourcas Hosten still tends toward hard, tannic, robust, coarse wines, with impressive color and body but often excessive tannins. It is a serious but charmless style.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Listrac
Owner: François Marret
Address: Moulin de Laborde, 33480 Listrac
Telephone: 05 56 58 03 83; Telefax: 05 56 58 06 30
Visits: Every day, 2–6 P.M.
Contact: Yann Ollivier
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 30.9 acres
Grape varietals: 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 35 years
Density of plantation: 6,700 and 10,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 45 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentations and macerations last four weeks in stainless-steel tanks equipped with a cooling system. Pumpings-over are done twice a day. Wines are aged 15–18 months after malolactics in oak barrels that are renewed by a third at each vintage. They are fined but not filtered.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Fourcas Loubaney: 80,000 bottles
No second wine is produced.
Plateau of maturity: Within 5–12 years of the vintage
This is one of the best wines of the Listrac appellation. Unfortunately, the modest production is rarely seen except by a small group of avid Bordeaux aficionados. Although I have not tasted a fully mature vintage of Fourcas Loubaney, the vintages I have tasted have been impressive.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Moulis
Owner: Bertrand de Marcellus
Address: 33480 Moulis
Telephone: 05 56 58 02 51
Visits: By appointment only
Contact: Bertrand de Marcellus
Surface area: 54.3 acres
Grape varietals: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 27 years
Density of plantation: 8,500 vines per hectare
Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Manual harvest; 25 day fermentations and macerations in stainless-steel vats; aging for 15 months in barrel (of which nine months are spent in small new oak barrels). Fining and filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Gressier Grand Poujeaux: 150,000 bottles
No second wine is produced.
Plateau of maturity: Within 7–20 years of the vintage
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Bégadan
Owner: Groupe EXOR
Address: By, 33340 Bégadan
Telephone: 05 56 73 26 56; Telefax: 05 56 73 26 58
Visits: By appointment only
Contact: Philippe Dambrine
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 54.3 acres
Grape varietals: 45% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 25 years
Density of plantation: 7,600 vines per hectare
Average yields: 55 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentations (27–32°C) last 4–5 days in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Wines undergo malolactics in tanks and are transferred to oak barrels (20% of which are new) for 12 months aging. They are fined but not filtered.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Greysac: 360,000 bottles
Domaine de By: 120,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 5–12 years of the vintage
Greysac has become one of the most popular Cru Bourgeois wines in the United States. High quality and the dynamic personality and marketing ability of the now-deceased, gregarious proprietor—Baron François de Gunzburg—were totally responsible for this wine’s acceptance by Americans (who are normally so classification conscious when it comes to Bordeaux wines).
The style of wine at Greysac is one that I have always found very elegant, smooth, and medium bodied, with a complex bouquet filled with currant fruit and a true, mineral, soil-like aroma. Never an aggressive or overly tannic wine, Greysac is usually fully mature by its sixth or seventh year and keeps well for up to 12 years.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Cissac
Owner: Catherine Blasco
Address: 12, route d’Hanteillan, 33250 Cissac Médoc
Telephone: 05 56 59 35 31; Telefax: 05 56 59 31 51
E-mail: chateau-hanteillan@wanadoo.fr
Website: www.chateau-hanteillan.com
Visits: Monday to Thursday, 9 A.M.–noon and 2–5:30 P.M.; Fridays, 9 A.M.–noon.
Contact: Marylène Brossard
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 202.5 acres
Grape varietals: 50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 15 years
Density of plantation: 6,500 and 8,300 vines per hectare
Average yields: 55 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentation and 2–4 week maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats with micro-oxygenation. Eighteen months aging with half the yield in vats and half the yield in barrels that are renewed by half at each vintage. No fining, filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Hanteillan: 300,000–350,000 bottles
Château Laborde: 200,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 4–8 years of the vintage
This is a highly promoted Cru Bourgeois that I have always found to be lacking in fruit and charm. It is classically made with a high-tech cuverie designed to produce wines of quality. Nevertheless, the wine comes across as relatively tannic, austere, and compact.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Lamarque
Owner: Gromand d’Evry family
Address: 33460 Lamarque
Telephone: 05 56 58 90 03; Telefax: 05 56 58 93 43
E-mail: chdelamarq@aol.com
Visits: Preferably by appointment Monday to Friday, 9 A.M.–noon and 2–5 P.M.
Contact: Francine Prévot
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 86.5 acres
Grape varietals: 41% Merlot, 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 30 years
Density of plantation: 6,500 vines per hectare
Average yields: 40–50 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Twenty-eight day fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled concrete tanks. Malolactics in vats for drip wines and in barrels for press wines. Sixteen to eighteen months aging in barrels with 35–50% new oak. Fining, no filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château de Lamarque: 145,000–170,000 bottles
D de Lamarque: 30,000–50,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 4–7 years of the vintage
One of the outstanding medieval fortress castles in the Bordeaux region, Lamarque, named after the town of the same name, sits just off the main Route du Vin (D2) of the Médoc directly on the road to the ferry boat that traverses the Gironde to Blaye.
Lamarque is a typically good, middle-weight, central Médoc wine. It seems to have a touch of the St.-Julien elegance mixed with round, supple, soft, ripe fruity flavors. The owners, the Gromand family, make the wine with great care. Lamarque should be consumed within 7–8 years of the vintage. Prices remain among the more reasonable for a Cru Bourgeois.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Cussac-Fort-Médoc
Owner: GFA des Domaines Bouteiller
Address: 33460 Cussac-Fort-Médoc
Telephone: 05 56 58 94 80; Telefax: 05 56 58 93 10
Visits: Every day, 9 A.M.–noon and 2–6 P.M.
Contact: Hubert Bouteiller
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 98.8 acres
Grape varietals: 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 25 years
Density of plantation: 10,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 55 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentations and macerations last 12–18 days in temperature-controlled concrete tanks. After malolactics in vats, wines are transferred to oak barrels, 5% of which are new, for 18–30 months aging, depending upon the vintage. They are fined and filtered.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Lanessan: 250,000–300,000 bottles
No second wine is produced.
Plateau of maturity: Within 7–18 years of the vintage
Lanessan can be one of the outstanding wines of the Haut-Médoc appellation. The wine could probably be given serious consideration for fifth-growth status should any reclassification of the wines of the Médoc take place.
Lanessan, which is located in Cussac immediately south of the commune of St.-Julien, opposite the big vineyard of Gruaud Larose, makes intensely flavored wines, with deep color, a robust, large-scaled frame, and chewy texture. If they can be criticized for lacking finesse, they more than compensate for that weakness with rich, gutsy, black currant flavors.
The nearly 99 acres, which are being augmented each year with new plantings, produce in excess of 20,000 cases of wine. The property is owned and managed by the Bouteiller family. Lanessan ages extremely well, as attested by a delightful but tired 1920 I shared with a friend in 1983. Of more recent vintages, the top successes include the 2001, 2000, 1996, 1995, 1990, 1989, 1988, 1986, 1982, 1978, 1975, and 1970. The wines are powerful and individualized, somewhat similar in style and character to the fifth-growth Pauillac Lynch-Bages.
I have noted above that Lanessan can be inconsistent. Part of the spottiness of Lanessan’s performance (the only criticism one could possibly make) is probably due to the château’s insistence on using primarily old barrels for aging the wine. Perhaps a small percentage of new barrels each year might prove beneficial for such a robust wine. For visitors to the region, this lovely château, which has been owned by the same family since 1890, is now a museum displaying numerous carriages and an assortment of harnesses. It is open to the public.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: St.-Laurent du Médoc and Pauillac
Owner: AGF Allianz Group
Address: Route de Pauillac, 33112 St.-Laurent du Médoc
Telephone: 05 56 59 41 72; Telefax: 05 56 59 93 22
E-mail: info@trintaudon.com
Website: www.trintaudon.com
Visits: By appointment only Monday to Friday, 9:30 A.M.–5 P.M.
Contact: Matthias von Campe
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 424.8 acres
Grape varietals: 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot
Average age of vines: 32 years
Density of plantation: 6,600 vines per hectare
Average yields: 55 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Prolonged fermentation and maceration (21–28 days) in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Twelve months aging in barrels with 25% new oak. Fining and filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Larose-Trintaudon: 900,000 bottles
La Rose St.-Laurent/Les Hauts de Trintaudon: 50,000–100,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 4–7 years of the vintage
For years, the largest vineyard in the Médoc produced a straightforward, supple, correct wine of no great distinction, but since the late 1990s the wines have become richer and more interesting. Excellent efforts were produced in 2001, 2000, and 1999.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Listrac-Médoc and Moulis
Owner: Chanfreau family
Address: 33480 Listrac-Médoc
Telephone: 05 56 58 02 43; Telefax: 05 56 58 04 33
E-mail: vignobles.chanfreau@wanadoo.fr
Website: www.chateau-fonreaud.com
Visits: Monday to Friday, 9 A.M.–noon and 2–5 P.M.
Contact: Jean Chanfreau
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 103.7 acres
Grape varietals: 52% Merlot, 44% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 30 years
Density of plantation: 6,666 vines per hectare
Average yields: 55 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Two to three day cold maceration at 12°C. Fermentation and 25–30 day maceration in temperature-controlled concrete vats. Twelve months aging on fine lees in barrels that are renewed by a third at each vintage. Fining depends upon the vintage, no filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Lestage: 190,000 bottles
La Dame de Coeur du Château Lestage: 50,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–8 years of the vintage
I have fond memories of many vintages of Lestage. They are supple, straightforward, richly fruity efforts, cleanly made and tasty. The entire production was aged in large vats until 1985, when the proprietor began employing small oak barrels. That decision has resulted in wines with more structure and character. This is never a profound wine and there is a tendency to produce too much wine per hectare, but this large vineyard in Listrac, with a charming three-story, 19th-century château, easily fulfills the needs of consumers looking for wines that offer immediate drinkability at a fair price.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: St.-Sauveur
Owner: Jean-Michel Lapalu
Address: 1, route de Farpiqueyre, 33250 St.-Sauveur de Médoc
Mailing address: 1, rue du 19 mars, 33340 Bégadan
Telephone: 05 56 41 50 18; Telefax: 05 56 41 54 65
E-mail: info@domaines-lapalu.com
Website: www.domaines-lapalu.com
Visits: By appointment Monday to Friday, 9 A.M.–noon and 2–4 P.M.
Contact: Domaines Lapalu
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 96.3 acres
Grape varietals: 50% Merlot, 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Cabernet Franc
Average age of vines: 25 years
Density of plantation: 7,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 56 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Four to five week fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel and wooden vats. Twelve to fifteen months aging in barrels that are renewed by 25–30% each year. Fining, light filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Liversan: 250,000 bottles
Les Charmes de Liversan: 40,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 4–10 years of the vintage
Many Bordeaux observers have long considered the excellently placed vineyard of Liversan, which sits between the city of Pauillac and the hamlet of St.-Sauveur, to have the potential to produce wines of classified-growth quality. The construction of a new winery, increased use of new oak barrels, and conservative yields have resulted in a series of good to very good wines.
The style produced at Liversan aims for wines with a deep color, fine extract, soft tannins and grip, concentration, and length.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: St.-Yzans-de-Médoc
Owner: Marie-Claude and Jean-Paul Lafragette
Address: 33340 St.-Yzans-de-Médoc
Telephone: 05 56 73 17 80; Telefax: 05 56 09 02 87
E-mail: chateau-loudenne@wanadoo.fr
Visits: By appointment only
Contact: Florence Lafragette
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 86.5 acres
Grape varietals: 55% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 27 years
Density of plantation: 5,000–6,500 vines per hectare
Average yields: 55 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentation and three week maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel and concrete tanks. Part of yield undergoes malolactics in barrel. Twelve months aging with 25–30% new oak. Fining and filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Loudenne: Variable
Pavillon de Loudenne: Variable
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–6 years of the vintage
Note: From 35 acres of vineyards, Loudenne also produces 45,000 bottles of a 62% Sauvignon Blanc/38% Sémillon dry white Bordeaux. This wine is aged 6–8 months on lees in barrels with 25–30% new oak. It is fined and filtered before bottling. The château also commercializes a rosé called Rosé de Loudenne.
The lovely pink Château Loudenne’s vineyard, planted on sandy, stony soils, is located at the very northern end of the Médoc, near St.-Yzans. While I have enjoyed the fruity, straightforward white wine, made from a blend of 50% Sauvignon and 50% Sémillon, I find the red wine extremely light. Although it is correctly made, it lacks complexity, richness, and staying power.
Given the attention to detail exhibited at Loudenne, I have often wondered whether or not this area of the Médoc is capable of producing wines of staying power. Improvements in quality in the mid-1990s augur well for more complete and interesting red wines.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Blanquefort
Owner: Barton & Guestier
Address: 87, rue du Dehez, 33290 Blanquefort
Mailing address: BP 30, 33292 Blanquefort Cedex
Telephone: 05 56 95 48 00; Telefax: 05 56 95 48 01
E-mail: barton-guestier@diageo.com
Website: www.barton-guestier.com
No visits
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 42 acres
Grape varietals: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot
Average age of vines: 18 years
Density of plantation: 8,500 vines per hectare
Average yields: 56 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentation and three week maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats with micro-oxygenation of lees. Twelve months aging in barrels with 25% new oak. Fining and filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Magnol: 100,000 bottles
No second wine is produced.
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–5 years of the vintage
I have been impressed with the soft, fruity, easy to like, and easy to drink wines of Château Magnol, a property owned by the huge firm of Barton & Guestier. The vineyard is located just north of the city of Bordeaux, east of the sprawling suburb of Blanquefort. The wine is extremely well made in a modern, commercial style, and there is no doubting its seductive, forward charms. Magnol is not a wine to lay away in your cellar; it should be drunk early.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Lamarque
Owner: Alcatel-Alsthom
Address: 6, route du Moulin Rose, 33460 Lamarque
Mailing address: 6, route du Moulin Rose, BP 16, 33460 Lamarque
Telephone: 05 56 73 15 20; Telefax: 05 56 59 64 72
E-mail: malescasse@free.fr
Website: www.chateau-malescasse.com
Visits: By appointment Monday to Friday, 10 A.M.–noon and 2–4 P.M.
Contact: François Peyran
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 91.4 acres
Grape varietals: 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc
Average age of vines: 23 years
Density of plantation: 6,500 vines per hectare
Average yields: 55 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentation (31–33°C) and 3–4 week maceration in temperature-controlled vats. Malolactics and 18 months aging in barrels with 35% new oak. Fining and light filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Malescasse: 160,000 bottles
La Closerie de Malescasse: 70,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 4–7 years of the vintage
Malescasse is a well-situated vineyard located just to the north of the village of Arcins and south of Lamarque. The vineyard was extensively replanted in the early 1970s, and the vines are now reaching maturity.
This is a seriously run Cru Bourgeois, and since the early 1980s the wines have been richly fruity, medium bodied, and ideal for drinking between the ages of 4 and 8.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Moulis and Listrac
Owner: Philippe Dourthe
Address: Quartier de la Game, 33480 Moulis-en-Médoc
Telephone: 05 56 58 01 23; Telefax: 05 56 58 00 88
E-mail: chateau@maucaillou.com
Website: www.chateau-maucaillou.com
Visits: Every day, 11 A.M.–noon and 2–6 P.M.
Contact: Michelins Larrue or Cécile Verger
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 148.2 acres
Grape varietals: 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc
Average age of vines: 25 years
Density of plantation: 8,800 vines per hectare
Average yields: 55 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Cold maceration. Fermentation at low temperature, 20 day maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Fifteen to eighteen months aging in barrels with 50% new oak. Fining and filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Maucaillou: 400,000 bottles
Cap de Haut de Maucaillou: 100,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 4–12 years of the vintage
Maucaillou has consistently represented one of the best wine values in the Médoc. The wine is impeccably made by the robust and exuberant Philippe Dourthe. There is little to criticize at this estate. Maucaillou is a deeply colored wine with a splendid ripe concentration of fruit, good body, soft tannins, and enough grip and extract to mature gracefully over a 10–12 year period. Since the early 1980s the wines have been aged in as much as 50% new oak casks, with the remainder in two-year-old casks purchased from prominent classified-growth châteaux.
It is not easy to make wines so rich and fat that they can be drunk young while maintaining their ability to age for up to a decade. Maucaillou has clearly succeeded in taming the soil of Moulis, which can render hard, tannic wine. They have produced exceptionally elegant, highly satisfying wines that are among only a handful of underpriced Bordeauxs. For the adventurous travelers who enjoy the back roads of the Médoc, I highly recommend a visit to Château Maucaillou, where there is an attractive winemaking museum. In addition, visitors have the opportunity to taste the new wine.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Listrac
Owner: Bernard Lartigue
Address: 33480 Listrac-Médoc
Telephone: 05 56 58 27 63; Telefax: 05 56 58 22 41
E-mail: blartigue@terre-net.fr
Website: www.isasite.net/mayne.lalande
Visits: Monday to Friday, 8 A.M.–noon and 2–6 P.M.
Contact: Bernard Lartigue
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 49.4 acres
Grape varietals: 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 25 years
Density of plantation: 7,000–9,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 40–50 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Four to five week fermentation and maceration. Twelve to sixteen months aging in barrels with 30–50% new oak. No fining, no filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Mayne Lalande: 50,000 bottles
Château Malbec Lartigue: 50,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 5–15 years of the vintage
This little-known Listrac property produces one of the better wines of the appellation. The key to their success is low yields and the dedication of proprietor Bernard Lartigue. For now, this wine remains known only to insiders and some of Bordeaux’s most innovative restaurateurs, such as Jean-Pierre Xiradakis, who sells this wine at his well-known restaurant, La Tupina. The price has yet to take off, and therefore Mayne Lalande appears to be undervalued.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Cussac-Fort-Médoc
Owner: Pelon and Ribeiro families
Address: 18, rue de Costes, 33460 Cussac-Fort-Médoc
Telephone: 05 56 58 91 13; Telefax: 05 56 58 93 68
E-mail: laurence.ribeiro@free.fr
Visits: Every day, 9 A.M.–noon and 1:30–6 P.M.; Sundays by appointment.
Contact: Laurence Ribeiro
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 44.5 acres
Grape varietals: 50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc
Average age of vines: 35–40 years
Density of plantation: 6,000–7,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Cold maceration. Twenty-one to twenty-eight day fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks. Twelve months aging in barrels that are renewed by a third at each vintage. Fining and filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château du Moulin Rouge: 100,000 bottles
L’Ecuyer du Moulin Rouge: 20,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 5–10 years of the vintage
Du Moulin Rouge is one of my favorite Crus Bourgeois. The highly morcellated vineyard (there must be at least six separate parcels) is located north of the village of Cussac-Fort-Médoc, just south of the appellation of St.-Julien. Not surprisingly, the wine often has the character of a good St.-Julien. It is always deep in color and since the 1980s has been rich, fleshy, full-bodied, and somewhat reminiscent of such wines as Hortevie and Terrey-Gros-Cailloux. Of course, du Moulin Rouge is significantly less expensive, since it is entitled to only the Haut-Médoc appellation.
This is one of the more solid, chunky, fleshy Crus Bourgeois, and while it may not have great finesse, it does offer considerable richness, muscle, and character.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Moulis and Listrac
Owner: Dominique and Marie-Hélène Hessel
Address: Bouqueyran, 33480 Moulis-en-Médoc
Telephone: 05 56 58 15 79; Telefax: 05 56 58 39 89
E-mail: hessel@moulin-a-vent.com
Website: www.moulin-a-vent.com
Visits: Monday to Friday, 9 A.M.–noon and 2–6 P.M. By appointment on weekends.
Contact: Dominique Hessel
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 61.8 acres
Grape varietals: 55% Merlot, 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Cabernet Franc
Average age of vines: 25 years
Density of plantation: 6,666 vines per hectare
Average yields: 47 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Four week fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats with daily pumpings-over the first week. Twenty-two months aging in barrels and vats (by rotation) with 12 months in barrels (25% new oak). No fining, light filtration upon bottling.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Moulin à Vent: 140,000 bottles
Château Moulin de St.-Vincent: 20,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 5–10 years of the vintage
This property continues to produce an older style of Moulis—dense, tannic, and requiring several years in the bottle to soften and evolve. The property uses a significant amount of press wine, resulting in a dark-colored, forceful, powerful style of Moulis that seems to be best when the grapes are fully ripe.
Overall, this is a property that has made considerable improvement in the quality of its wines since Dominique Hessel began to manage the estate’s winemaking.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Moulis
Owner: Alain Daricarrère
Address: 33480 Moulis
Telephone: 05 57 68 40 66
Contact: Alain Daricarrère
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 61.8 acres
Grape varietals: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot
Average age of vines: 25 years
Density of plantation: 6,700 vines per hectare
Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentations and macerations last three weeks in stainless-steel tanks. Temperature control is manual. The wines undergo malolactics in vats. They are then aged 12 months, by rotation, in vats (75% of the yield) and oak barrels (25% of the yield). Very little new oak is utilized. The wines are fined and filtered.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Moulis: 120,000 bottles
No second wine is produced.
Plateau of maturity: Within 4–7 years of the vintage
Most vintages from Moulis have been deep in color, but compact, relatively austere, straightforward wines without the complexity and charm one expects. Nevertheless, this is a well-situated vineyard, and the approach to the wine’s vinification is traditional.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Couquèques
Owner: Jean Boivert
Address: 33340 Couquèques
Telephone: 05 56 73 30 30; Telefax: 05 57 73 30 31
E-mail: ormes-sorbet@wanadoo.fr
Website: www.ormes-sorbet.com
Visits: Monday to Friday, 9 A.M.–noon and 2–6 P.M.
Contact: Jean Boivert
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 51.9 acres
Grape varietals: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 5% Carmenère and Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 25 years
Density of plantation: 8,333 vines per hectare
Average yields: 55 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Three to four week fermentation and maceration in stainless-steel and epoxy-lined vats. Eighteen months aging in barrels with 50% new oak. Fining, no filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Les Ormes Sorbet: 100,000 bottles
Château de Conques: 20,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 6–12 years of the vintage
The current proprietor, Jean Boivert (who took over this estate in 1970), has produced one of the best wines in the northern Médoc since the mid-1980s. Boivert is the eighth generation of his family (since 1730) to run this vineyard near the sleepy village of Couquèques. The dense planting and Jean Boivert’s decision in the 1970s to increase the percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon have paid off with an excellent string of good vintages since 1982. The style that has emerged at Les Ormes Sorbet is one of deep color and a pronounced toasty vanilla oakiness from excellent Troncalais barrels. They are wines that have the potential for a decade of longevity.
Recently, the 2000, 1996, 1995, and 1990 were all well-made wines. This is an up-and-coming domaine in the northern Médoc.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Bégadan
Owner: Jean-Michel Lapalu
Address: 1, rue du 19 mars, 33340 Bégadan
Telephone: 05 56 41 50 18; Telefax: 05 56 41 54 65
E-mail: info@domaines-lapalu.com
Website: www.domaines-lapalu.com
Visits: Weekdays, 9 A.M.–noon and 2–5 P.M. (until 4 P.M. on Fridays).
Contact: Aline Buiatti
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 106.2 acres
Grape varietals: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 35 years
Density of plantation: 8,500 vines per hectare
Average yields: 53 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Four to five week fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel and wooden vats. Twelve to fifteen months aging in barrels that are renewed by a quarter each year. Fining, light filtration.
Château Patache d’Aux: 260,000 bottles
Le Relais de Patache d’Aux: 40,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 5–8 years of the vintage
Patache d’Aux produces wines that have an almost California-like herbaceous, juicy, black currant fruitiness, supple texture, and easy drinkability. In years where the Cabernet does not attain full ripeness, the wine has a tendency to be too vegetal. However, in ripe vintages, such as 2000, 1996, 1995, 1990, 1989, 1986, and 1982, this can be an immensely impressive Cru Bourgeois for drinking in the first 5–8 years of its life. It is often jammy and opulent, and rarely elegant, but for those consumers looking for a well-made, reasonably priced Cru Bourgeois that does not require deferred gratification, this is a worthy choice.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Listrac and Moulis
Owner: Paul Hostein
Address: 2062 Médrac-Est, 33480 Listrac-Médoc
Telephone: 05 56 58 05 55; Telefax: 05 56 58 05 50
Website: www.peyredon.lagravette.com
Visits: October 10th to February 28: Monday to Saturday, 9 A.M.–6 P.M. March 1 to September 20: Monday to Saturday, 9 A.M.–12:30 P.M. and 2–7 P.M. Closed between September 20 and October 10.
Contact: Paul Hostein
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 17.3 acres
Grape varietals: 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 25 years
Density of plantation: 9,090 vines per hectare
Average yields: 48 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentation and 21–25 day maceration in temperature-controlled vats with regular pumpings-over. Eighteen months aging in barrels with 30% new oak. Fining, no filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Peyredon Lagravette: 44,000 bottles
No second wine is produced.
Plateau of maturity: Within 6–15 years of the vintage
This excellent Listrac is not well-known, but if vintages such as 1995, 1990, 1989, 1986, 1983, and 1982 are any indication, this may be one of the best-kept secrets of Listrac. The tiny vineyard sits to the east of most of the other Listrac properties, adjacent to the appellation of Moulis. Two of the best Moulis vineyards, Chasse-Spleen and Maucaillou, are closer to Peyredon Lagravette than most of the other Listrac vineyards. The wine is very traditionally made with an extremely long cuvaison. The result is an intensely concentrated, full-bodied, ripe, impressively built wine for drinking over 10–15 years.
The property itself is quite old, tracing its origin to 1546. The current proprietor, Paul Hostein, eschews the mechanical harvesters so frequently employed in this part of the Médoc, as well as all of the antibotrytis treatments that have become in vogue among the properties to fight mold and rot. Hostein prefers an organic method of winemaking. Additionally, his dense vineyard plantations of more than 9,000 vines per hectare represent many more vines per hectare than most Bordeaux vineyards.
I have yet to taste a wine from Peyredon Lagravette that has been fully mature, so this would appear to be one of the longer-lived Listracs, with a character more closely associated with Moulis than Listrac. More attention needs to be paid to Château Peyredon Lagravette.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Bégadan
Owner: Domaines Cordier
Address: Bégadan, 33340 Lesparre
Mailing address: SAS Château Plagnac, 109, rue Achard, BP 154, 33042 Bordeaux Cedex
Telephone: 05 56 11 29 00; Telefax: 05 56 11 29 01
E-mail: contact@cordier-wines.com
Visits: By appointment and for professionals of the wine trade only
Contact: Domaines Cordier (Telephone: 05 56 41 54 34; Telefax: 05 56 41 59 02)
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 74.1 acres
Grape varietals: 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot
Average age of vines: 25 years
Density of plantation: 5,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 60 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentation and 21 day maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks. Twelve months aging in barrels with 25% new oak. Fining and filtration.
Château Plagnac: 230,000 bottles
Les Tours de Plagnac: Variable
Plateau of maturity: Within 2–6 years of the vintage
Looking for a reasonably priced, soft, fruity, easy to drink, straightforward Bordeaux? This wine, managed and looked after by the exceptionally talented Cordier team, is the type of Bordeaux that pleases the crowd and satisfies both the palate and purse. It is meant to provide charm and immediate drinkability. Drink this wine within its first 5–6 years of life.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Ordonnac
Owner: Delon family
Address: 33340 Ordonnac
Mailing address: c/o Château Léoville Las Cases, 33250 St.-Julien Beychevelle
Telephone: 05 56 73 25 26; Telefax: 05 56 59 18 33
Visits: By appointment only
Contact: Château Léoville Las Cases
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 140.8 acres
Grape varietals: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc
Average age of vines: 30 years
Density of plantation: 8,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 55 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fifteen to eighteen day fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel and concrete tanks. Twelve to sixteen months aging in barrels with 10–15% new oak. Fining, no filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Potensac: Production not disclosed
Goudy La Cardonne, Gallais Bellevue, Lassalle: Production not disclosed
Plateau of maturity: Within 4–12 years of the vintage
Since the mid-1970s, Potensac, under the inspired and strong leadership of the late Michel Delon and (since 2000) his son, Jean-Hubert (the proprietor of the famed Léoville Las Cases in St.-Julien and Nenin in Pomerol), has been making wines that are clearly of classified-growth quality. This large vineyard, situated near St.-Yzans, produces wines so far above the level of quality found in this region of the Médoc that they are a tribute to the efforts of the Delons and the maître de chai, Michel Rolland.
The wine has a rich, cassis and berry-like character, excellent structure, a wonderful purity and balance characteristic of the Delons’ wines, and surprising aging potential. This area of the northern Médoc is rarely capable of producing wines of this quality, but the Delons consistently manage to do that at Potensac.
Delon also owns another group of vineyards that make up the secondary labels for Potensac. A few years ago Potensac was somewhat of an insiders’ wine, but that is no longer the case. Nevertheless, this is such a high-quality wine that any serious Bordeaux enthusiast would be making a mistake if he or she did not try it. Vintages to search out include 2001, 2000, 1998, 1996, and 1995.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Grand-Poujeaux in Moulis
Owner: Theil family
Address: 33480 Moulis-en-Médoc
Telephone: 05 56 58 02 96: Telefax: 05 56 58 01 25
E-mail: chateau-poujeaux@wanadoo.fr
Website: www.chateau-poujeaux.com
Visits: Preferably by appointment. October 1 to May 31: Monday to Friday, 9 A.M.–noon and 2–5 P.M. June 1 to September 31: Monday to Saturday, 9 A.M.–noon and 2–6 P.M.
Contact: Christophe Labenne
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 135.9 acres
Grape varietals: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 35 years
Density of plantation: 10,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Four week fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel, wooden, and concrete tanks. Twelve months aging in barrels that are renewed by half at each vintage. Fining, no filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Poujeaux: 350,000 bottles
Château La Salle de Poujeaux: 50,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 6–20 years of the vintage
While there is a considerable rivalry between Poujeaux, Chasse-Spleen, and Maucaillou, most observers agree that year in and year out, these are the three best wines of Moulis. Poujeaux is one of the oldest estates, dating back to 1544, when the vineyards and surrounding area were called La Salle de Poujeaux. The property is now run by the Theil brothers, whose family acquired Poujeaux in 1920.
Poujeaux’s style is typical of the wines of Moulis. It is dark ruby in color, tannic, sometimes astringent and hard when young, and therefore usually needs a minimum of 6–8 years to soften and mature. It is a slower-developing wine than neighbor Chasse-Spleen, yet it has the potential to be one of the longest lived. A splendid bottle of 1928 served to me in 1985 and again in 1988 proved just how magnificent, as well as ageworthy, Poujeaux can be. Poujeaux is clearly a wine that deserves to be ranked as a fifth growth in any new classification of the Bordeaux hierarchy. Recently, Poujeaux has produced superb wines in 2001, 2000, and one of the best wines of the vintage in 1997.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: St.-Sauveur
Owner: SCI Ch. Ramage La Batisse
Address: 33250 St.-Sauveur
Mailing address: c/o Gironde et Gascogne, Belcier, 33350 les Salles de Castillon
Telephone: 05 57 56 40 40; Telefax: 05 57 40 64 25
E-mail: gironde-et-gascogne@wanadoo.fr
Visits: By appointment Monday to Friday
Contact: Jean-Paul Thilbaut (Telephone: 05 56 59 57 24; Telefax: 05 56 59 54 14)
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 210 acres (165.5 in production)
Grape varietals: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot
Average age of vines: 30 years
Density of plantation: 8,350 vines per hectare
Average yields: 55 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentation and 18 day maceration (28–30°C) in temperature-controlled concrete tanks. Malolactics in oak for 30% of the yield. Fifteen months aging in barrels that are renewed by a third at each vintage.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Ramage La Batisse: 380,000 bottles
Clos de Ramage: 130,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 5–8 years of the vintage
The vineyards of Ramage La Batisse are located in St.-Sauveur, a small wine-producing region situated inland and west from the small town of Pauillac. The vineyard has been completely replanted since 1961. The wines from the late 1970s, particularly the 1979 and 1978, were quite impressive—supple, oaky, richly fruity wines of style and character. Performances since have been surprisingly irregular.
This property is well placed, and it has the potential to turn out top wines, as it did in the 1970s. Most vintages of Ramage La Batisse are best drunk between 5–10 years of age.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Listrac
Owner: Yves Raymond
Address: 33480 Listrac-Médoc
Telephone: 05 56 58 03 02; Telefax: 05 56 58 07 64
E-mail: yraymond@wanadoo.fr
Visits: By appointment only
Contact: Yves Raymond
VINEYARDS (RED)
Surface area: 37 acres
Grape varietals: 56% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 23 years
Density of plantation: 6,700 vines per hectare
Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Three to four week fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Twelve months aging in barrels that are renewed by a third at each vintage. No fining, filtration if necessary.
RED WINES PRODUCED
Château Saransot-Dupré: 60,000 bottles
Roc de Saransot: 20,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 4–12 years of the vintage
Note: This château also produces a 60% Sémillon, 30% Sauvignon, and 10% Muscadelle dry Bordeaux white from a 40-year-old, two-hectoliter plot of vines.
The high percentage of Merlot ensures that in ripe vintages, this wine has a degree of opulence and fullness not often found in Listrac wines. The wine is usually dark ruby in color, with a bouquet redolent of black fruits, such as plums as well as licorice and flowers.
Given the high extraction, ripeness, and intensity of the wines made at Saransot-Dupré, an elevated use of new oak could be beneficial. This is a wine that needs 4–5 years to reach its plateau of maturity, but can last for 12–15 years. To date, this château remains largely undiscovered in the export markets.
A delicious, dry white wine, made from 4.3 acres of Sémillon, Sauvignon, and Muscadelle, is produced at Saransot-Dupré. I have never seen a bottle outside of France, but it is a delicious Bordeaux Blanc.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Parempuyre
Owner: SCA Château Ségur
Address: 33290 Parempuyre
Telephone: 05 56 35 28 25: Telefax: 05 56 35 82 32
Visits: Monday to Friday, 8 A.M.–noon and 1:30–5 P.M. Saturday by appointment only.
Contact: Jean-Pierre Grazioli
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 93.9 acres
Grape varietals: 42% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Cabernet Franc, 6% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 26 years
Density of plantation: 6,700 vines per hectare
Average yields: 52 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Manual harvest. Fermentations and macerations take place in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Wines remain in vats for six months and are afterward transferred to oak barrels, one third of which are new, for 12 months aging. They are fined with albumin and filtered.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Ségur: 95,000 bottles
Château Ségur Fillon: 145,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 4–7 years of the vintage
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Listrac
Owner: Vignoble Jander
Address: 33480 Listrac
Telephone: 05 56 58 01 12; Telefax: 05 56 58 01 57
Visits: Monday to Friday, 8 A.M.–noon and 2–6 P.M.
Contact: Alain Bistodeau
Surface area: 46.4 acres
Grape varietals: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot
Average age of vines: 20 years
Density of plantation: 10,000 and 6,700 vines per hectare
Average yields: 53 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentations last 3–4 weeks in stainless-steel tanks equipped with a temperature control system. Wines are then aged 18 months in oak barrels, 50% of which are new. They are fined and filtered.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Sémeillan-Mazeau: 60,000 bottles
Château Decorde: 60,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 5–15 years of the vintage
I have had limited experience with the wines of Sémeillan-Mazeau, but those vintages I have tasted exhibited a rich, highly extracted, old style of wine with admirable power and tannin. My guess is that most of the wines from top vintages can last for 10–15 years.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Le Pian-Médoc
Owner: Charles de Guigne
Address: 33290 Le Pian-Médoc
Telephone: 05 56 70 20 11; Telefax: 05 56 70 23 91
Visits: By appointment only
Contact: Bruno Vonderheyden
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 61.8 acres
Grape varietals: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 18 years
Density of plantation: 6,600 vines per hectare
Average yields: 48–52 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentations and macerations last approximately 20 days. Fifteen percent of the yield undergoes malolactics in barrels, the rest in vats. Wines are aged in oak barrels, 30% of which are new. They are fined but not systematically filtered.
Château Sénéjac: 135,000 bottles
Artigue de Sénéjac/La Bergerie de Sénéjac: 65,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 4–6 years of the vintage
A marvelously photogenic estate (poplar-lined roads and ponds), Sénéjac is located in the southern part of the Médoc, west of the town of Parempuyre and just south of the village of Arsac. The vineyard sits on very light, sandy, gravelly soil and produces a soft, fruity red wine that is meant to be drunk young. Recent vintages, particularly 2001 and 2000, have shown much more stuffing and character. In addition, the producers have introduced an excellent, 800-case prestige cuvée called Karolus. This wine is made from a 7.5 acre parcel of 50% Merlot, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 17% Cabernet Franc planted in gravelly soil. The blend has varied significantly. In 2000, it was 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot; in 2001, it was 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, and 26% Cabernet Franc.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: St.-Seurin-de-Cadourne
Owner: Jean Gautreau
Address: 33180 St.-Seurin-de-Cadourne
Telephone: 05 56 73 38 80; Telefax: 05 56 73 38 88
E-mail: scea.jean.gautreau@wanadoo.fr
Visits: By appointment only on weekdays, 9 A.M.–noon and 2–5 P.M. Fridays, closed in the morning.
Contact: Jean Gautreau
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 163 acres
Grape varietals: 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 25–30 years
Density of plantation: 8,800 vines per hectare
Average yields: 50–55 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentation and 20 day maceration in temperature-controlled vats. Eleven months aging in 100% new oak barrels. No fining, no filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Sociando-Mallet: 300,000 bottles
La Demoiselle de Sociando-Mallet: 100,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 8–25 years of the vintage
Located in St.-Seurin-de-Cadourne, Sociando-Mallet is making uncompromising wines of extremely high quality that are meant to age gracefully for 10–25 years. The vineyards are superbly situated overlooking the Gironde, and the style of wine produced by the meticulous owner—Jean Gautreau, who purchased this run-down property in 1969—is inky black ruby in color, extremely concentrated, full-bodied, and loaded with mouth-puckering tannin. Some observers have even claimed that Sociando-Mallet has the greatest potential for longevity of any wine in the Médoc. The keys to the quality of Sociando-Mallet are numerous. First there is the superb vineyard, with excellent exposure and well-drained, gravelly soil, a high density of vines per hectare (8,800), as well as manual-harvesting techniques. A fermentation temperature of 32–33°C, a three-week or longer maceration period, the use of 100% new oak, and no fining and filtration are further evidence of the château’s high standards.
The result of all this is irrefutable. Sociando-Mallet is easily the equal of many of the classified growths, and its surging reputation among France’s wine connoisseurs has already assured that much of it is purchased within that country.
IMPORTANT VINTAGES
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: St.-Seurin-de-Cadourne
Owner: Vignobles E.F. Miailhe SAS
Address: 33180 St.-Seurin-de-Cadourne
Telephone: 05 56 59 36 09; Telefax: 05 56 59 72 39
Visits: By appointment only. No visits in August or at harvest time.
Contact: Eric Miailhe
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 56.8 acres
Grape varietals: 55% Merlot, 44% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Cabernet Franc
Average age of vines: 20–25 years
Density of plantation: 6,500 vines per hectare
Average yields: 35 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentation and 30 day maceration in temperature-controlled vats. Twelve to fourteen months aging in barrels that are renewed by a third at each vintage. Fining and filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Soudars: 160,000 bottles
Château Marquis de Cadourne: Variable (not produced each year)
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–6 years of the vintage
The high percentage of Merlot used at Soudars results in a wine that is relatively fat, round, fruity, and easy to drink. Vintages since the early 1980s have been impeccably made by young Eric Miailhe. This is not a wine to lay away for more than 5–6 years, but to drink in its youth. Soudars has a great deal to offer at a reasonable price.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Bégadan and St.-Christoly
Owner: Marc Pagès family
Address: 33340 Bégadan
Telephone: 05 56 41 50 03; Telefax: 05 56 41 36 10
E-mail: la.tour.de.by@wanadoo.fr
Visits: Monday to Thursday, 8 A.M.–noon and 1:30–5:30 P.M. Friday, 8 A.M.–noon and 1:30–4:30 P.M. By appointment for groups. Open on weekends in July and August.
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 182.8 acres
Grape varietals: 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc
Average age of vines: 40 years
Density of plantation: 5,500–10,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 55 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Three to four week fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel and wooden vats. Fourteen months aging in barrels with 25% new oak. Fining and filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château La Tour de By: 450,000 bottles
La Roque de By: 50,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 5–10 years of the vintage
This is one of the best-known Crus Bourgeois for a number of reasons. One is that the vast estate of 182.8 acres produces nearly 40,000 cases of wine. The property was purchased in 1965 by well-known Médoc vineyard owners, Messieurs Cailloux, Lapalu, and Pagès, and they have built new cellars that hold nearly 1,400 aging barrels. Given the huge production and yields of 55–70 hectoliters per hectare, one might think this wine would lack stuffing, but there is always a relatively severe selection process, as well as two secondary labels where weaker vats and wine from younger vines are relegated.
La Tour de By produces well-colored, richly fruity, solid wines that only lack complexity and intensity in the bouquet. The high percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon gives the wines their deep color and firm tannic background. I do not remember tasting a badly made La Tour de By from any good vintage.
Classification: Fourth growth in 1855
Location of vineyards: St.-Laurent du Médoc
Owner: Bernard Magrez
Address: Route de Beychevelle, 33112 St.-Laurent du Médoc
Telephone: 05 56 73 30 90; Telefax: 05 56 59 48 54
Website: www.la-tour-carnet.com
Visits: Monday to Friday, 8 A.M.–noon and 1:30–5:30 P.M.
Contact: Mr. Despeaux
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 113.6 acres
Grape varietals: 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 30 years
Density of plantation: 8,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 45 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Cold maceration. Fermentation (28–30°C) with four daily pigéages and three week maceration in temperature-controlled vats. Malolactics and 16–18 months aging on lees with weekly stirrings in new oak barrels. Fining, no filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château La Tour Carnet: 180,000 bottles
Les Douves de Carnet: 90,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 5–15 years of the vintage
La Tour Carnet is located in St.-Laurent, and despite its inclusion in the 1855 classification, it has remained largely anonymous. This beautiful property has been restored completely and boasts a medieval castle and moat. The wine has suffered considerably from, I suspect, extensive replanting in the 1960s. More recent vintages, particularly 2001 and 2000, are very promising. Because of the commitment of Bernard Magrez, with considerable expertise provided by the incomparable oenologist, Michel Rolland, this property will be one to watch carefully.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Blaignan
Owner: Philippe Courrian
Address: 33340 Blaignan
Telephone: 05 56 09 00 77; Telefax: 05 56 09 06 24
Visits: By appointment only
Contact: Véronique Courrian
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 39.5 acres
Grape varietals: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot
Average age of vines: 30 years
Density of plantation: 7,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 60 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentation and prolonged maceration in temperature-controlled concrete tanks of small capacity (at different temperatures depending upon the grape varietals). Fourteen months aging in barrels that are renewed by a third at each vintage. Fining, no filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Tour Haut-Caussan: 90,000 bottles
Château La Landotte: 6,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 6–15 years of the vintage
Philippe Courrian is the most recent proprietor from this family, which has run this excellent Cru Bourgeois since 1877. Not surprisingly, the property takes its name not only from a beautiful windmill situated in the midst of the vineyards, but also from the nearest village, Caussan. The vineyard is located near the more famous properties of Potensac and La Cardonne. Everything about the winemaking is extremely traditional. The extremely low yields of 40–60 hectoliters per hectare, the manual harvesting in an area where most vineyards are picked by machine, the declassifying of inferior lots to a second wine, and the policy against filtration all typify an estate dedicated to high quality. As Mr. Courrian has said many times, “Why filter? My wine does not contain anything bad.”
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Cussac Fort-Médoc
Owner: Béatrice and Lionel Poitou
Address: 22, avenue du Fort-Médoc, 33460 Cussac-Fort-Médoc
Telephone: 05 56 58 91 10; Telefax: 05 57 88 83 13
E-mail: contact@tour-du-haut-moulin.com
Website: www.tour-du-haut-moulin.com
Visits: Monday to Friday, 9 A.M.–noon and 1–5:30 P.M. Open on Saturdays from May to October.
Contact: Lionel Poitou
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 79 acres
Grape varietals: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 25 years
Density of plantation: 10,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 48–50 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Ten to twelve day fermentation with two daily pumpings over, 4–5 week maceration in temperature-controlled vats. Malolactics and 15 months aging in barrels that are renewed by a third each year. No fining, no filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Tour du Haut-Moulin: 160,000 bottles
Florilège du Tour du Haut-Moulin: 15,000–20,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 5–14 years of the vintage
The vineyards of this excellent Cru Bourgeois, located near Cussac, are situated just to the north of Château Lamarque. There is no doubt that proprietor Laurent Poitou produces one of the most concentrated and intensely flavored wines among the Crus Bourgeois. He is not averse to letting the fermentation temperature reach a dangerously high 34–35°C and he favors a long cuvaison of nearly one month. Additionally, the conservative yields from a densely planted vineyard of 10,000 vines per hectare no doubt account for the impressively dark ruby/purple color of these wines in top years, as well as their admirable depth and concentration. This is clearly one of the top Crus Bourgeois. In fact, in a blind tasting, it would embarrass some classified growths.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: St.-Christoly
Owner: GFA La Tour St.-Bonnet
Address: 33340 St.-Christoly
Telephone and telefax: 05 56 41 53 03
Visits: By appointment only
Contact: Nicole Merlet
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 98.8 acres
Grape varietals: 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 5% Malbec, 5% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 30–35 years
Density of plantation: 9,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 40–50 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentations and macerations last approximately three weeks, and wines are aged in wooden vats for 18 months. They are fined but not systematically filtered.
WINES PRODUCED
Château La Tour St.-Bonnet: 200,000 bottles
La Fuie St.-Bonnet: 20,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 6–14 years of the vintage
La Tour St.-Bonnet has always been one of my favorite Crus Bourgeois. The first vintage I tasted, and subsequently purchased, was the 1975. The vineyard of nearly 100 acres is well situated on a gravelly ridge adjacent to the Gironde River, near the village of St.-Christoly.
This is not a commercially made, supple, ready to drink Cru Bourgeois, but, rather, a deeply colored, firm, tannic, full-bodied wine with surprising concentration. Most vintages need at least 3–4 years to shed their tannins, and in top years, such as 2000, 1996, 1995, and 1990 they need 10 years or longer. The vineyard is machine harvested, and yields of 40–50 hectoliters per hectare are conservative by today’s standards. Interestingly, the wine is not aged in small oak casks, but in larger oak foudres. The proprietor, the Lafon family, feels this preserves the wine’s intensity and rich, concentrated fruit extract.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: St.-Seurin-de-Cadourne
Owner: Jean Miailhe group
Address: 33180 St.-Seurin-de-Cadourne
Telephone: 05 56 59 31 02; Telefax: 05 56 59 32 35
E-mail: contact@chateau-coufran.com
Visits: By appointment only. No visits in August or at harvest time.
Contact: Eric Miailhe
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 148.2 acres
Grape varietals: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc
Average age of vines: 25–30 years
Density of plantation: 8,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 54 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentation and 30 day maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Twelve to fourteen months aging in barrels that are renewed by a third at each vintage. Fining and filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Verdignan: 400,000 bottles
Château Plantey de Lacroix: 50,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 4–8 years of the vintage
Another one of the Miailhe family’s solidly run Cru Bourgeois properties, Verdignan’s château and vineyards are located near the northern Médoc village of St.-Seurin-de-Cadourne. A wine I have consistently enjoyed, it is ripe, supple, richly fruity, and possesses a straightforward yet powerful black currant aroma. Made in a style designed for early drinking, it is best drunk between 4–8 years of age. Since the early 1980s the wine has taken on more concentration and character. The vineyard is machine harvested and averages 50–65 hectoliters per hectare. The price for Verdignan has remained reasonable, no doubt due to the significant production.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Avensan and Soussan
Owner: Marie-Laure Lurton Roux
Address: Lieu-dit La Tuilerie, 33460 Avensan
Mailing address: SC Les Grands Crus Réunis, 2036 Chalet, 33480 Moulis-en-Médoc
Telephone: 05 56 58 22 01; Telefax: 05 56 58 15 10
E-mail: lgcr@wanadoo.fr
Visits: By appointment only
Contact: Viviane Grouffier
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 49.4 acres
Grape varietals: 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot
Average age of vines: 16 years
Density of plantation: 6,667 vines per hectare
Average yields: 49 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentation and 15–28 day maceration in temperature-controlled vats. Eighteen months aging, with six months in vats and 6–12 months in barrel with 20–30% new oak. Fining and filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Villegeorge: 47,600 bottles
Refrain du Château Villegeorge: 20 600 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–6 years of the vintage
In 1973 the Lurton family added this small property to their collection of Bordeaux châteaux. The wine is loosely knit, soft, pleasantly fruity, straightforward, and uninspiring. Perhaps the high yields and significant percentage of Merlot, which is planted in very gravelly soil, are the reasons this wine is relatively light and one-dimensional.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Ludon-Médoc
Owner: Grands Vignobles de Gironde, Mahler-Besse SA
Address: 33290 Ludon-Médoc
Mailing address: 49, rue Camille Godard, 33000 Bordeaux
Telephone: 05 56 56 04 30; Telefax: 05 56 56 04 59
E-mail: contact@malher-besse.com
Website: www.mahler-besse.com
Visits: By appointment only
Contact: Export department, Mahler-Besse SA
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 22.2 acres
Grape varietals: 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc (a dollop of Petit Verdot and Carmenère)
Average age of vines: 30 years
Density of plantation: 9,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Prolonged fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Sixteen months aging in barrels with 30% new oak. Fining, no filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château d’Arche: 60,000 bottles
No second wine is produced.
Plateau of maturity: 2–6 years
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Cussac-Fort-Médoc
Owner: Grands Millésimes de France
Address: 33460 Cussac-Fort-Médoc
Telephone: 05 56 58 92 29; Telefax: 05 56 58 90 94
E-mail: beaumont@chateau-beaumont.com
Website: www.chateau-beaumont.com
Visits: Monday to Friday, 9 A.M.–noon and 2–5 P.M.
Contact: Etienne Priou
Surface area: 279.1 acres
Grape varietals: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 22 years
Density of plantation: 6,666 vines per hectare
Average yields: 50–55 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentation (28–30°C) and three week maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Twelve to fourteen months aging in barrels that are renewed by a third at each vintage. Fining and filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Beaumont: 400,000–500,000 bottles
Château d’Arvigny: 200,000–300,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 4–8 years of the vintage
This large estate had a checkered history until it was acquired by two insurance companies in 1986. The progression in quality since then has been significant, and this is now one of the more interesting, best made, and reasonably priced Crus Bourgeois in the Médoc. The goal has been to produce a supple and amply endowed wine with a great deal of up-front fruit intelligently married with toasty vanilla aromas from a small percentage of new oak barrels. Recent vintages taste as if the percentage of Merlot is considerably higher than the 36% the property claims. This is a wine to seek out for the cunningly made, yet extremely attractive, crowd-pleasing style. The château itself is also noteworthy and worth visiting. An old fortified tower as well as an impressive twin-turreted façade dominate the landscape around the village of Cussac-Fort-Médoc.
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Macau
Owner: SC de la Gironville
Address: 69, route de Louens, 33460 Macau
Telephone: 05 57 88 19 79; Telefax: 05 57 88 41 79
E-mail: contact@scgironville.com
Website: www.scgironville.com
Visits: By appointment only
Contact: Rémy Fouin (Telephone: 06 08 51 70 22)
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 24 acres
Grape varietals: 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot, 20% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 23 years
Density of plantation: 6,700 vines per hectare
Average yields: 37 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentation and 5–8 week maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats of small capacity. Malolactics and 14–20 months aging in barrels with 80–90% new oak. Light fining, no filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Belle-Vue: 48,000 bottles
No second wine is produced.
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–10 years of the vintage
Classification: Cru Bourgeois Supérieur
Location of vineyards: St.-Sauveur
Owner: SCI du Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande
Address: Le Fournas Nord, 33250 St.-Sauveur
Telephone: 05 56 59 57 04; Telefax: 05 56 59 54 84
E-mail: bernadotte@chateau-bernadotte.com
Website: www.chateau-bernadotte.com
Visits: By appointment only
Contact: Visits desk (Telephone: 05 56 59 19 40; Telefax: 05 56 59 26 56)
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 86.5 acres
Grape varietals: 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 25 years
Density of plantation: 6,500 vines per hectare
Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Three to four week fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Twelve to eighteen months aging in barrels that are renewed by a third at each vintage. Fining, filtration not systematic.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Bernadotte: 120,000 bottles
Château Fournas Bernadotte: 110,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 5–12 years of the vintage
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Moulis-en-Médoc
Owner: Philippe Porcheron
Address: route d’Avensan, 33480 Moulis-en-Médoc
Mailing address: 287, avenue de la Libération, 33110 Le Bouscat
Telephone: 05 56 42 69 50; Telefax: 05 56 42 69 88
E-mail: philippe.porcheron@wanadoo.fr
Visits: By appointment only
Contact: Philippe Porcheron
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 30.9 acres
Grape varietals: 58% Merlot, 41% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 25 years
Density of plantation: 6,600 vines per hectare
Average yields: 42 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Prolonged fermentation and 3–4 week maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Twelve months aging in barrels with 30% new oak. Fining, no filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Bouqueyran: 50,000 bottles
No second wine is produced.
Plateau of maturity: Within 5–15 years of the vintage
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Civrac-en-Médoc
Owner: Bruno Secret
Address: 11, route des Petites Granges, 33180 Civrac-en-Médoc
Telephone: 05 56 73 59 24; Telefax: 05 56 73 59 23
E-mail: bournac@terre-net.fr
Visits: By appointment only
Contact: Bruno Secret
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 35.1 acres
Grape varietals: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot
Average age of vines: 23 years
Density of plantation: 5,100 vines per hectare
Average yields: 54 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentation and 5–6 week maceration in temperature-controlled vats with frequent pumpings-over. Twelve months aging in vats for 10% of the yield and in barrels for the rest, with 33% new oak. No fining, no filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Bournac: 60,000 bottles
Le Branna: 30,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 2–8 years of the vintage
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Arsac
Owner: Régis Bernaleau
Address: 33460 Arsac
Mailing address: c/o Château Mongravey, 8 rue Jean-Luc Vonderheyden, 33460 Arsac
Telephone: 05 56 58 84 51; Telefax: 05 56 58 83 39
E-mail: chateau.mongravey@wanadoo.fr
Visits: By appointment only
Contact: Karin Bernaleau
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 14.8 acres
Grape varietals: 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot
Average age of vines: 20 years
Density of plantation: 6,600 vines per hectare
Average yields: 52 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Six to ten day fermentation and 3–4 week maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Fourteen to eighteen months aging in barrels with 33% new oak. Fining and filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château de Braude: 40,000 bottles
No second wine is produced.
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–9 years of the vintage
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Cissac Médoc
Owner: Vialard family
Address: 33250 Cissac Médoc
Telephone: 05 56 59 58 13; Telefax: 05 56 59 55 67
E-mail: marie.vialard@chateau-cissac.com
Website: www.chateau-cissac.com
Visits: By appointment only
Contact: Marie Vialard
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 61.8 acres
Grape varietals: 34% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Cabernet Franc, 11% Petit Verdot, 4% Malbec
Average age of vines: 20 years
Density of plantation: 7,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 45 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Three to four week fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled epoxy-lined concrete vats. Eighteen to twenty-four months aging in barrels with 25% new oak. Fining and filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château du Breuil: 60,000 bottles
Haut-Médoc: 80,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 7–15 years of the vintage
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Macau
Owner: Annick and Jean-Pierre Marie
Address: 5, chemin de Canteloup, 33460 Macau
Telephone: 05 57 88 40 32; Telefax: 05 57 88 19 12
E-mail: contact@cambon-la-pelouse.com
Website: www.cambon-la-pelouse.com
Visits: By appointment only Monday to Friday, 9 A.M.–noon and 2–6 P.M.
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 143.3 acres
Grape varietals: 50% Merlot, 50% Cabernet Sauvignon
Average age of vines: 25 years
Density of plantation: 5,000–7,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 48 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Cold fermentation at 5–7°C. Fermentation and 20–25 day maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Eighteen months aging in barrels that are renewed by half at each vintage. Fining, no filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Cambon La Pelouse: 200,000 bottles
Château Trois Moulins: 160,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–12 years of the vintage
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Lamarque
Owner: Gromand d’Evry family
Address: 33460 Lamarque
Telephone: 05 56 58 90 03; Telefax: 05 56 58 93 43
E-mail: chdelamarq@aol.com
Visits: Preferably by appointment Monday to Friday, 9 A.M.–noon and 2–5 P.M.
Contact: Francine Prévot
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 2.5 acres
Grape varietals: 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Franc
Average age of vines: 25 years
Density of plantation: 6,500 vines per hectare
Average yields: 40–50 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Three week fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks. Malolactics in vats for drip wines and in barrels for press wines. Twelve months aging in barrels with 30% new oak. Fining, no filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Cap de Haut: 50,000 bottles
No second wine is produced.
Plateau of maturity: Within 4–7 years of the vintage
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Owner: Christine Courrian
Address: Lafon, Prignac, 33340 Lesparre
Telephone: 05 56 09 02 78 and 06 10 02 12 92; Telefax: 05 56 09 09 07
E-mail: jfbraq@aol.com
Visits: By appointment only
Contact: Christine Courrian
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 39.5 acres
Grape varietals: 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 35 years
Density of plantation: 8,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Cold maceration. Prolonged fermentation and maceration in epoxy-lined concrete tanks. Thirteen to eighteen months aging in barrels (with little new oak). No fining, no filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Chantelys: 40,000 bottles
Les Iris de Chantelys: 40,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–9 years of the vintage
Classification: None
Location of vineyards: Cantenac
Owner: Michel Théron
Address: 4, rue de la Halle, 33460 Arsac
Telephone and telefax: 05 56 58 89 43
Visits: By appointment only
Contact: Michel Théron
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 5.1 acres
Grape varietals: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot, 2% other varietals
Average age of vines: 35 years
Density of plantation: 6,666 vines per hectare
Average yields: 48 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Prolonged fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled concrete tanks. Part of yield undergoes malolactics in barrels. Fifteen months aging in barrels that are renewed by a third at each vintage. Fining and filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Clos du Jaugueyron: 9,000 bottles
No second wine is produced.
Plateau of maturity: Within 5–15 years of the vintage
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Vertheuil
Owner: SCEA Vignobles Anney
Address: 33180 Vertheuil
Mailing address: c/o Château Tour des Termes, 33180 St.-Estèphe
Telephone: 05 56 59 32 89; Telefax: 05 56 59 73 74
Visits: Monday to Friday, 8:30 A.M.–12:30 P.M. and 2–4:30 P.M.
Contact: Christophe Anney
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 14.8 acres
Grape varietals: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot 50%
Average age of vines: 15 years
Density of plantation: 6,666 vines per hectare
Average yields: 57 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentation and 3–4 week maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Twelve months aging in one-and two-year-old barrels. Fining, no filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Comtesse du Parc: 40,000 bottles
No second wine is produced.
Plateau of maturity: Within 2–6 years of the vintage
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Civrac-en-Médoc
Owner: Jean-Marc Landureau
Address: Route d’Escurac, 33340 Civrac-en-Médoc
Telephone: 05 56 41 50 81; Telefax: 05 56 41 56 48
E-mail: chateau.d’escurac@wanadoo.fr
Visits: By appointment Monday to Friday, 9 A.M.–5 P.M.
Contact: Jean-Marc Landureau
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 49.4 acres
Grape varietals: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot
Average age of vines: 18 years
Density of plantation: 5,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 55 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentation at low temperatures with twice daily pumpings-over and pigéages and four week maceration in temperature-controlled vats with the cap immersed. Twelve months aging in barrels with 30–45% new oak. Fining, no filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château d’Escurac: 60,000–80,000 bottles
La Chapelle d’Escurac: 60,000–80,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 4–10 years of the vintage
(Formerly Hontemieux)
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Ordonnac and Blaignan
Owner: Vincent Boivert
Address: 33340 Ordonnac
Telephone: 05 56 73 30 30; Telefax: 05 56 73 30 31
Visits: By appointment only
Contact: Hélène Boivert
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 24.7 acres
Grape varietals: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot
Average age of vines: 20 years
Density of plantation: 8,333 vines per hectare
Average yields: 56 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Three week fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Twelve months aging in vats for half the yield and in barrels (with 50% new oak) for the rest. Fining, no filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Fontis: 35,000 bottles
Château Montoya: 35,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 2–6 years of the vintage
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: St.-Christoly-de-Médoc
Owner: Bernard Magrez
Address: 13, route de Lesparre, 33340 Saint-Christoly-de-Médoc
Telephone: 05 56 41 53 12; Telefax: 05 56 41 39 06
Visits: By appointment only
Contact: Patrick Nevoux (Telephone: 06 07 55 14 75)
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 34.6 acres
Grape varietals: 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc
Average age of vines: 30 years
Density of plantation: 8,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 45 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Four day cold maceration. Fermentation and 22 day maceration in temperature-controlled vats. Malolactics and 18 months aging on lees with stirring in barrels that are renewed by half at each vintage.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Les Grands Chênes Cuvée Prestige: 60,000 bottles
Château Les Grands Chênes: 22,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–12 years of the vintage
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Valeyrac
Owner: Claude Ganelon
Address: Villeneuve, 33340 Valeyrac
Mailing address: BP no. 5, 33460 Arcins
Telephone: 05 56 58 95 74; Telefax: 05 57 88 50 65
Visits: By appointment only
Contact: Claude Ganelon
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 37 acres
Grape varietals: 60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon
Average age of vines: 30 years
Density of plantation: 8,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 60 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentation and maceration in concrete vats. Aging depends upon requirements of buyers.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Gravat or Château Haute Rivière: 100,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 2–6 years of the vintage
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Prignac
Owner: Domaines CGR
Address: 33340 Blaignan
Mailing address: Les Domaines CGR, 40, rue Notre-Dame des Victoires, 75002 Paris
Telephone: 05 56 73 31 51 or 01 42 21 11 80; Telefax: 05 56 73 31 52 or 01 42 21 11 85
E-mail: gcharloux@domaines-cgr.com
Website: www.chateau-griviere.com
Visits: Monday to Friday, 8:30 A.M.–5 P.M.
Contact: Annelis Bosq (Telephone: 05 56 73 31 51; Telefax: 05 56 73 31 52)
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 42 acres
Grape varietals: 59% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Cabernet Franc
Average age of vines: 23 years
Density of plantation: 7,500 vines per hectare
Average yields: 59 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks. Twelve months aging in barrels that are renewed by half each year. Fining, filtration not systematic.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Grivière: 60,000 bottles
Château Ribeiron: Variable
Plateau of maturity: Within 2–10 years of the vintage
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Bégadan
Owner: Jean Guyon
Address: 7, route Rollan de By, 33340 Bégadan
Telephone: 05 56 41 58 59; Telefax: 05 56 41 37 82
E-mail: rollan-de-by@wanadoo.fr
Website: www.rollandeby.com
Visits: By appointment only Monday to Friday, 9 A.M.–noon and 2–5 P.M.
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 9.9 acres
Grape varietals: 80% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 30 years
Density of plantation: 8,500 vines per hectare
Average yields: 35 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentation, maceration, malolactics, and aging on fine lees in new oak barrels. No fining, no filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Haut-Condissas: 16,000 bottles
No second wine is produced.
Plateau of maturity: Within 4–15 years of the vintage
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Listrac
Owner: Jander family
Address: 41, avenue de Soulac, 33480 Listrac-Médoc
Telephone: 05 56 58 01 12; Telefax: 05 56 58 01 57
E-mail: vignobles.jander@wanadoo.fr
Website: www.vignobles-jander.com
Visits: By appointment
Contact: Alain Bistodeau
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 35.8 acres
Grape varietals: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot
Average age of vines: 30 years
Density of plantation: 10,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 32 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Eighteen months aging in barrels with 50% new oak. Fining and filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Jander: 15,000–20,000 bottles
Château Sémeillan Mazeau: 70,000–75,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 2–12 years of the vintage
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Cussac-Fort-Médoc
Owner: GFA des Domaines Bouteiller
Address: 33460 Cussac-Fort-Médoc
Telephone: 05 56 58 94 80; Telefax: 05 56 58 93 10
Visits: By appointment only
Contact: Hubert Bouteiller
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 49.4 acres
Grape varietals: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot
Average age of vines: 20 years
Density of plantation: 7,500 vines per hectare
Average yields: 57 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentations and macerations last 12 days in temperature-controlled concrete tanks. After malolactics in vats, wines are transferred to oak barrels (no new oak) for 12 months aging.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Lachesnaye: 150,000 bottles
No second wine is produced.
Plateau of maturity: Within 2–10 years of the vintage
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Bégadan
Owner: Jean-Michel Lapalu
Address: Le Broustera, 1, rue du 19 mars, 33340 Bégadan
Mailing address: SC du Château Lacombe Noaillac, Le Broustera, 33590 Jau Dignac et Loirac
Telephone: 05 56 41 50 18; Telefax: 05 56 41 51 65
E-mail: info@domaines-lapalu.com
Website: www.domaines-lapalu.com
No visits
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 98.8 acres
Grape varietals: 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 20 years
Density of plantation: 5,500 vines per hectare
Average yields: 57 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled vats. Twelve months aging in vats and in barrels that are renewed by 15–20% each year. Fining and filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Lacombe Noaillac: 200,000 bottles
Château Les Rives de Gravelongue: 100,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 4–15 years of the vintage
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Moulis-en-Médoc
Owner: Régis Bernaleau
Address: 33480 Moulis-en-Médoc
Mailing address: c/o Château Mongravey, 8 rue Jean-Luc Vonderheyden, 33460 Arsac
Telephone: 05 56 58 84 51; Telefax: 05 56 58 83 39
E-mail: chateau.mongravey@wanadoo.fr
Visits: By appointment only
Contact: Karin Bernaleau
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 16.1 acres
Grape varietals: 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot
Average age of vines: 20 years
Density of plantation: 6,600 vines per hectare
Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Six to ten day fermentation and 3–4 week maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Fourteen to eighteen months aging in barrels with 50% new oak. Fining and filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Lalaudey: 40,000 bottles
No second wine is produced.
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–9 years of the vintage
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Cussac-Fort-Médoc
Owner: Domaines Cordier
Address: Bégadan, 33460 Cussac-Fort-Médoc
Mailing address: SCC GPD, 109 rue Achard, BP 154, 33042 Bordeaux Cedex
Telephone: 05 56 11 29 00; Telefax: 05 56 11 29 01
E-mail: contact@cordier-wines.com
Visits: By appointment and for professionals of the wine trade only. Monday to Friday, 9 A.M.–noon and 2–5 P.M.
Contact: Domaines Cordier (Telephone: 05 56 58 94 77; Telefax: 05 56 58 98 18)
Surface area: 165.5 acres
Grape varietals: 49% Merlot, 44% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc
Average age of vines: 25 years
Density of plantation: 6,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 45 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentation and 18–21 day maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks. Sixteen to twenty months aging in barrels with 25% new oak. Fining and filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Lamothe Bergeron: 200,000 bottles
Château Romefort: 150,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–12 years of the vintage
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: St.-Laurent du Médoc
Owner: AGF.Allianz Group
Address: Route de Pauillac, 33112 St.-Laurent du Médoc
Telephone: 05 56 59 41 72; Telefax: 05 56 59 93 22
E-mail: info@trintaudon.com
Website: www.trintaudon.com
Visits: By appointment only Monday to Friday, 9:30 A.M.–5 P.M.
Contact: Matthias von Campe
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 81.5 acres
Grape varietals: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot
Average age of vines: 35 years
Density of plantation: 6,600 vines per hectare
Average yields: 55 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Prolonged fermentation and maceration (21–28 days) in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Twelve months aging in barrels with 40% new oak. Fining and filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Larose Perganson: 150,000 bottles
Château La Tourette: 50,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 4–7 years of the vintage
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Couhenne, north of Listrac
Owner: Vignobles Declercq
Address: Hameau de Couhenne, 33480 Listrac-Médoc
Mailing address: Gravenstafel, 32 Sneppestraat, B-8860 Lendelede (Belgium)
Telephone: 05 56 58 02 40 or 32 51 30 40 81; Telefax: 32 51 31 90 54
E-mail: vignobles.declercq@belgacom.net
Website: www.medoc.wines.com
Visits: By appointment only
Contact: Jean-Louis Declercq
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 37 acres
Grape varietals: 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 46% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc
Average age of vines: 28 years
Density of plantation: 6,666 and 10,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentation and 21 day maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Twelve months aging in barrels that are renewed by a third at each vintage. Fining, no filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château La Lauzette: 60,000 bottles
Galets de La Lauzette: 25,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–12 years of the vintage
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Saint-Sauveur de Médoc
Administrators: Jean-Michel Lapalu and Patrice Ricard
Address: 16, route de la Chatole, 33250 St.-Sauveur de Médoc
Mailing address: 1, rue du 19 mars, 33340 Bégadan
Telephone: 05 56 41 50 18; Telefax: 05 56 41 54 65
E-mail: info@domaines-lapalu.com
Website: www.domaines-lapalu.com
Visits: By appointment only
Contact: Domaines Lapalu
Surface area: 123.5 acres (93.9 in production)
Grape varietals: 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot
Average age of vines: 25 years
Density of plantation: 7,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 58 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentation and 3–4 week maceration in temperature-controlled vats. Twelve to fifteen months aging in barrels that are renewed by 20–25% each year. Fining, light filtration upon bottling.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Lieujean: 280,000 bottles
Château Lagrave: 65,000–100,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–8 years of the vintage
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Valeyrac
Owner: Bruno Second
Address: 2, route de Lousteauneuf, 33340 Valeyrac
Telephone: 05 56 41 52 11; Telefax: 05 56 41 38 52
E-mail: chateau.lousteauneuf@wanadoo.fr
Website: www.chateau-lousteauneuf.com
Visits: By appointment Monday to Friday, 9 A.M.–noon and 2–5 P.M.
Contact: Bruno Second
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 55.6 acres
Grape varietals: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 25 years
Density of plantation: 5,300 vines per hectare
Average yields: 54 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: One week cold maceration. Fermentation and maceration with pumpings-over and pigéages. Twelve months aging with 20% of yield in vats and the rest in barrels that are renewed by half each year. (The lots aged in vats complete their malolactics in barrel.) No fining, no filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Lousteauneuf: 75,000 bottles
No second wine is produced.
Plateau of maturity: within 2–8 years of the vintage
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Le Pian-Médoc
Owner: Grands Vins de Gironde
Address: 33290 Le Pian-Médoc
Telephone: 05 56 35 05 36; Telefax: 05 56 35 05 38
Visits: By appointment only
Contact: Lionel Barès
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 123.5 acres
Grape varietals: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 35 years
Density of plantation: 8,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 47 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentation (28°C) and 28 day maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Twelve months aging in barrels that are renewed by a third at each vintage. Fining and filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château de Malleret: 130,000 bottles
Château Barthez: 150,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 2–8 years of the vintage
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Moulis
Owner: Baroness Nadine de Rothschild
Address: 33480 Moulis-en-Médoc
Telephone: 05 56 58 38 00; Telefax: 05 56 58 26 46
Visits: By appointment and for professionals of the wine trade only.
Contact: Jean-Claude Boniface, Château Clarke, 33480 Listrac, Médoc.
Tel. 06 56 58 38 00, Fax 05 56 58 26 46
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 59.3 acres
Grape varietals: 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon
Average age of vines: 22 years
Density of plantation: 6,600 vines per hectare
Average yields: 49 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Cold maceration. Fermentation and 21–25 day maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats with micro-oxygenation. Fifteen months aging in barrels with 20–30% new oak. Fining depends upon the vintage, light filtration upon bottling.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Malmaison: 100,000 bottles
Les Granges des Domaines Edmond de Rothschild: Variable (Haut-Médoc)
Plateau of maturity: Within 4–12 years of the vintage
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Vertheuil
Owner: SCEA des Domaines Pedro
Address: 33180 Vertheuil
Telephone: 05 56 73 32 10; Telefax: 05 56 41 98 89
E-mail: dompedro@aol.com
Visits: Monday to Friday, 9 A.M.–noon and 2–5 P.M. By appointment for groups.
Contact: Jacques Pedro or Frank Maroszak
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 46.9 acres
Grape varietals: 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc
Average age of vines: 25 years
Density of plantation: 6,500 vines hectare
Average yields: 50–55 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Prolonged fermentation and maceration with frequent pumpings-over in temperature-controlled vats. Eighteen months aging in barrels with 30% new oak. Fining, no filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Le Meynieu: 40,000–60,000 bottles
Château La Gravière: 40,000–60,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–10 years of the vintage
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Listrac
Owner: François Marret
Address: 33480 Listrac
Telephone: 05 56 58 03 83; Telefax: 05 56 58 06 30
Visits: Every day, 2–6 P.M.
Contact: Yann Ollivier
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 29.6 acres
Grape varietals: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot
Average age of vines: 25–30 years
Density of plantation: 6,700 vines per hectare
Average yields: 55 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentations and macerations last four weeks in stainless-steel tanks equipped with a trickle cooling system. Pumpings-up are done twice a day. Two thirds of the yield is then aged in oak barrels for 6–8 months by rotation. Wines are fined and filtered.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Moulin de Laborde: 75,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 4–14 years of the vintage
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Médoc
Owner: Marc Pagès family
Address: 33590 Jau-Dignac-Loirac
Telephone: 05 56 09 52 20; Telefax: 05 56 09 58 75
E-mail: noaillac@noaillac.com
Website: www.noaillac.com
Visits: Monday to Friday, 9 A.M.–noon and 1:30–4:30 P.M.
Contact: Xavier Pagès
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 113.6 acres
Grape varietals: 55% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 20 years
Density of plantation: 5,500 vines per hectare
Average yields: 57 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Three to four week fermentation and maceration in stainless-steel and concrete tanks. Twelve months aging in vats for 40% of the yield and in barrels with 10% new oak for the rest. Fining and filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Noaillac: 150,000 bottles
Moulin de Noaillac: 120,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–12 years of the vintage
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Blaignan
Owner: Domaines CGR
Address: 33340 Blaignan
Mailing address: Les Domaines CGR, 40, rue Notre-Dame des Victoires, 75002 Paris
Telephone: 05 56 73 31 51 or 01 42 21 11 80; Telefax: 05 56 73 31 52 or 01 42 21 11 85
E-mail: gcharloux@domaines-cgr.com
Website: www.chateau-ramafort.com
Visits: Monday to Friday, 8:30 A.M.–12:30 P.M. and 1:30–5 P.M.
Contact: Annelis Bosq (Telephone: 05 56 73 31 51; Telefax: 05 56 73 31 52)
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 46.9 acres
Grape varietals: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot
Average age of vines: 28 years
Density of plantation: 7,500 vines per hectare
Average yields: 59 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks. Twelve months aging in barrels that are renewed by half each year. Fining, filtration not systematic.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Ramafort: 110,000 bottles
Château Barbaran: Variable
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–6 years of the vintage
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Bégadan
Owner: Jean Guyon
Address: 7, route Rollan de By, 33340 Bégadan
Telephone: 05 56 41 58 59; Telefax: 05 56 41 37 82
E-mail: rollan-de-by@wanadoo.fr
Website: www.rollandeby.com
Visits: By appointment only Monday to Friday, 9 A.M.–noon and 2–5 P.M.
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 101.3 acres
Grape varietals: 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 30 years
Density of plantation: 8,500 vines per hectare
Average yields: 45 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Cold maceration. Fermentation and three week maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Malolactics and 12 months aging on lees in new oak barrels. No fining, no filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Rollan de By: 240,000 bottles
Fleur de By: 100,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 4–12 years of the vintage
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Listrac
Owner: Philippe Porcheron
Address: Route d’Avensan, 33480 Moulis-en-Médoc
Mailing address: 287, avenue de la Libération, 33110 Le Bouscat
Telephone: 05 56 42 69 50; Telefax: 05 56 42 69 88
E-mail: philippe.porcheron@wanadoo.fr
Visits: By appointment only
Contact: Philippe Porcheron
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 22.2 acres
Grape varietals: 56% Merlot, 44% Cabernet Sauvignon
Average age of vines: 22 years
Density of plantation: 6,600 vines per hectare
Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Prolonged fermentation and 3–4 week maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Twelve months aging in barrels with 30% new oak. Fining, no filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Rose Sainte-Croix: 40,000 bottles
Château Pontet Salanon: 15,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 5–14 years of the vintage
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Cussac-Fort-Médoc
Owner: GFA des Domaines Bouteiller
Address: 33460 Cussac-Fort-Médoc
Telephone: 05 56 58 94 80; Telefax: 05 56 58 93 10
Visits: By appointment only
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 24.7 acres
Grape varietals: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot
Average age of vines: 15 years
Density of plantation: 6,800 vines per hectare
Average yields: 59 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentations and macerations last 12 days in temperature-controlled concrete tanks. After malolactics in vats, wines are transferred to oak barrels (no new oak) for 12 months aging. They are fined and filtered.
WINES PRODUCED
Château de Sainte-Gemme: 60,000 bottles
No second wine is produced.
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–12 years of the vintage
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: St.-Christoly-de-Médoc
Owner: Société des Vignobles d’Aquitaine
Address: 15, route du Breuil, 33340 St.-Christoly-de-Médoc
Telephone: 05 56 58 15 79; Telefax: 05 56 58 39 89
E-mail: hessel@moulin-a-vent.com
Visits: By appointment only
Contact: Dominique Hessel
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 96.3 acres
Grape varietals: 45% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 30 years
Density of plantation: 5,555 vines hectare
Average yields: 56 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentation and three week maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks. Twenty to twenty-two months aging by rotation in vats and in barrels with 20% new oak. No fining, light filtration upon bottling.
WINES PRODUCED
Château La Tour Blanche: 180,000 bottles
Château Guiraud Peyrebrune: 100,000 bottles
Plateau of maturity: Within 2–10 years of the vintage
Classification: Cru Bourgeois
Location of vineyards: Bégadan
Owner: Jean Guyon
Address: 7, route Rollan de By, 33340 Bégadan
Telephone: 05 56 41 58 59; Telefax: 05 56 41 37 82
E-mail: rollan-de-by@wanadoo.fr
Website: www.rollandeby.com
Visits: By appointment only Monday to Friday, 9 A.M.–noon and 2–5 P.M.
VINEYARDS
Surface area: 24.7 acres
Grape varietals: 80% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 30 years
Density of plantation: 10,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 35 hectoliters per hectare
Elevage: Fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled tanks. Malolactics and 12 months aging in new oak barrels. No fining, no filtration.
WINES PRODUCED
Château Tour Seran: Production not indicated
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–7 years of the vintage
It was the wines of Graves that were the first Bordeaux wines to be made and exported. Barrels of Graves wine were shipped to England during the English reign over this region of France between 1152 and 1453. The region’s most hallowed property, Haut-Brion, can trace its history back to the 1600s, long before any of the Médoc blue bloods were ever mentioned. Even the Americans, led by the multitalented Thomas Jefferson in 1785, seemed to think that the wines of Graves were among the best wines made in Bordeaux.
Times have changed, and no wine-producing region in Bordeaux has lost more ground, literally and figuratively, than the region of Graves.
Graves, which includes the appellation of Pessac-Léognan (created in 1987 for the most cherished terroirs of this sprawling area), gets its name from the gravelly soil, a vestige of Ice Age glaciers. Totally different from the other wine regions of Bordeaux, it begins in what most tourists would think is still the city of Bordeaux but is actually the congested southern suburbs known as Talence and Pessac, two high-rise, modern, heavily populated centers of middle-class Bordelais and University of Bordeaux students. The major vineyards in this area, Haut-Brion, La Mission Haut-Brion, Pape Clément, and the microscopic treasure Les Carmes Haut-Brion, being the most renowned, happen to be the finest of the region, but since the last century they have had to fight off both urban sprawl and blight. A visit to these vineyards will offer a noisy contrast to the tranquil pastoral settings of the vineyards in the Médoc, Pomerol, and St.-Emilion. All the vineyards in this northern sector of Graves now carry the appellation of Pessac-Léognan. Unless you have a satellite navigational system on your vehicle, first-time visitors will have considerable trouble finding these vineyards among the urban/suburban sprawl.
Heading south from Talence and Pessac for the better part of 20 kilometers are the widely scattered vineyards of Pessac-Léognan. The region, once past the commercial suburb of Gradignan, does become pastoral and rural, with vineyards intermingled with pine forests and small farms. The two southern areas of Graves that produce the best wine are Léognan and Martillac, two small bucolic towns that seem much farther away from the bustling city of Bordeaux than they actually are. These wines too carry the appellation name of Pessac-Léognan.
The entire Graves region produces and is famous for both red and white wines. The top white wines of this region are rare and expensive and, in a few cases, capable of rivaling the finest white wines produced in France. They are produced from three grape varieties: Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, and Muscadelle. However, the finest wines of Graves are the reds.
Graves’s most famous estate, the American-owned Château Haut-Brion in the northern suburb of Pessac, was the first Bordeaux wine to receive international recognition. It was referred to in 1663 by the English author Samuel Pepys and between 1785 and 1789 by America’s preeminent Francophile, Thomas Jefferson. The international acclaim for the distinctive wines of Haut-Brion was no doubt the reason why this property was the only non-Médoc to be included in the 1855 Classification of the Wines of the Gironde. Along with Haut-Brion, the other exceptional red wines produced in Graves are Haut-Brion’s cross-street sibling, La Mission Haut-Brion, as well as the nearby estates of Pape Clément and Les Carmes Haut-Brion.
There are other fine Pessac-Léognan wines, most notably La Tour Haut-Brion in Talence, and Haut-Bailly, La Louvière, Smith Haut Lafitte, Domaine de Chevalier, and de Fieuzal near Léognan, but the overall level of quality winemaking, looked at from a consumer’s perspective, is not as high as in such Médoc communes as St.-Julien, Pauillac, and St.-Estèphe, yet significant improvements were evident in the late 1990s.
The wines of Pessac-Léognan, like those of the Médoc, have their own quality classification. It, too, falsely serves as a quality guide to unsuspecting wine enthusiasts. The first classification occurred in 1953 and the most recent classification in 1959. The 1959 classification listed 13 châteaux producing red wine, with Haut-Brion appearing first and the remaining 12 listed alphabetically. For the white wine producers (often the same châteaux), there were nine châteaux listed in alphabetical order, with Haut-Brion’s minuscule production of white wine excluded at the château’s insistence.
The personality traits of the northern Graves are individualistic and singular and not difficult to decipher when tasted blind in a comparative tasting with Médocs. While top wines such as Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion differ considerably in style, they do share a rich, earthy, almost tobacco-scented (cigar box), roasted, scorched-earth character. With the exception of La Mission Haut-Brion, most of these red wines appear more fragrant, but lighter and more supple, than their Médoc counterparts. Yet the finest wines of this region almost always have a compelling fragrance. For my olfactory sense, there is no more provocative and profound bouquet in Bordeaux than that of a top vintage of Haut-Brion.