LA TOUR HAUT-BRION

Classification: Classified growth (reds only)

Owner: Domaine Clarence Dillon SA

Address: 33400 Talence

Mailing address: c/o Domaine Clarence Dillon, Château Haut-Brion, 33608 Pessac Cedex

Telephone: 05 56 00 29 30; Telefax: 05 56 98 75 14

E-mail: info@haut-brion.com

Website: www.la-tour-haut-brion.com

No visits

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 12.1 acres

Grape varietals: 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Cabernet Franc, 23% Merlot

Average age of vines: 23 years

Density of plantation: 10,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 45 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats of 180-hectoliter capacity. Twenty months aging in oak barrels with 30% new oak. Fining, no filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château La Tour Haut-Brion: 30,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 8–25 years of the vintage

GENERAL APPRECIATION

Prior to 1983, this was the second wine of La Mission Haut-Brion. The owners at that time, the Woltner family, tended to add more press wine in this offering than in La Mission, resulting in dense, tannic wines. For that reason, some of the ancient vintages have aged fabulously well, and are worth a search of auction houses. Since 1983, administrator Jean Delmas has produced wines with more supple tannin as well as finesse. Delmas instituted a lot of new plantings, and the vines are thus relatively young. Since the late 1990s, La Tour Haut-Brion has taken on more texture and richness as the vineyard matures.

La Tour Haut-Brion was, until 1983, owned by the Woltner family, also the proprietors of La Mission Haut-Brion. In 1983, these two properties, plus the white wine–producing Woltner property—Laville Haut-Brion—were sold to the American owners of Haut-Brion.

The wines of La Tour Haut-Brion up to 1983 were vinified at La Mission Haut-Brion and handled identically. After both wines were completely finished with the secondary (or malolactic) fermentation, a selection process commenced in which the most promising barrels were chosen for the wine of La Mission Haut-Brion, and the others reserved for La Tour Haut-Brion. In vintages such as 1982 and 1975, the difference in quality between these two wines was negligible. To give La Tour Haut-Brion a unique personality, the wine had more of the black/purple-colored, very tannic press wine added to it than La Mission Haut-Brion. The result was a wine with more size, tannin, color, and grip than even La Mission Haut-Brion. The addition of press wine caused most vintages of La Tour Haut-Brion to evolve slowly. In a few vintages—notably 1973 and 1976—the wine turned out better than those of the more famous sibling.

Since the Dillon family and Jean Delmas assumed control of the winemaking, the style of La Tour Haut-Brion has changed considerably. It is no longer the second wine of La Mission Haut-Brion. Delmas has chosen to make La Tour Haut-Brion in a more refined style from the property’s own vineyards, which are now planted with relatively young vines. The result has been a less imposing, more supple wine that is significantly inferior not only to La Mission, but even to the second wine of Haut-Brion, Bahans Haut-Brion. For admirers of the old beefy, muscular, brawny style of La Tour Haut-Brion made before 1983, the new style must be a shock to their palates.

IMPORTANT VINTAGES (RED)

2001 89–91	This vibrant, dense ruby/purple–colored effort offers up aromas of creosote, herbs, mocha, and vanilla. Made in an elegant, medium-bodied style, it exhibits more flesh and texture as some of the vineyard’s young vine Merlot is making it into the blend. This forward 2001 will be at its best in 4–5 years, and should age well for 15+. Anticipated maturity: 2007–2015. Last tasted, 1/03.
2000 92	There are 2,500 cases of the 2000 La Tour Haut-Brion, the finest wine made under the ownership of the Dillon family and their brilliant administrator, Jean Delmas. The vintage yielded fabulous raw materials, the vineyard is older, and more Merlot is making it into the blend, thus fattening up what was once a herbaceous, more Cabernet Sauvignon–dominated wine. The dense purple-colored 2000 boasts a gorgeously sweet perfume of plums, black currants, tobacco, and a hint of olives. Sweet, ripe, and medium to full-bodied, with terrific richness, purity, and copious tannin, this is the finest La Tour Haut-Brion since the 1982. Anticipated maturity: 2007–2020. P. S. The blend of 52% Merlot, 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cabernet Franc is completely different than the composition of the vineyard. Last tasted, 1/03.
1999 90	The 1999 has put on weight in the course of its élevage. A sexy, open-knit, deep ruby–colored effort, it exhibits a smoky nose of melted asphalt, truffles, cassis, and tobacco, enticing sweetness on the attack, low acidity, and a smoky, ripe rich finish. Drink this captivating, complex Graves over the next 10–12 years. Last tasted, 3/02.
1998 89	My rating may be too conservative, as the 1998 is showing as well as any La Tour Haut-Brion from the 1990s. A dense ruby/purple color is followed by sweet aromas of black currants intermixed with tobacco, cedar, and spice box. The wine is beautifully pure, rich, medium bodied, with sweet tannin and well-integrated acidity as well as wood. It should drink well after several years of aging and last for 15 years. Last tasted, 3/02.
1997 86	An elegant, harmonious, spicy, aromatic offering, without a great deal of body, the 1997 reveals sweet black currant and smoky tobacco-like flavors. Drink this soft wine over the next 3–4 years. Last tasted, 1/02.
1996 87	La Tour Haut-Brion’s 1996 is an aromatic, surprisingly evolved wine for the vintage with a dark plum color, and a pronounced, smoky, cassis, weedy, dried herb–scented bouquet. A medium-bodied, classic, mid-weight Bordeaux, with plenty of spice, sweet fruit, elegance and complexity, it is a blend of 50% Cabernet Franc and 50% Cabernet Sauvignon. It should provide delicious drinking early, and last for 5–6 years. Last tasted, 12/00.
1995 88	The 1995 offers a heady perfume of coffee beans, tobacco, spice, smoke, grilled herbs, and sweet red and black fruits. It is long and round, with copious quantities of red currants, as well as good underlying acid, which gives the wine definition, and a spicy, lush, sweet finish with light but noticeable tannin. Anticipated maturity: now–2015. Last tasted, 12/00.
1994 87	A surprisingly supple-textured, fragrant, rich, medium-bodied wine has been produced in a vintage with a propensity to turn out stern, tannic, and occasionally hollow wines. La Tour Haut-Brion’s 1994 possesses a deep ruby/purple color as well as that telltale, textbook Graves, smoky, weedy, tobacco and sweet black fruit–scented nose. This wine displays fine precision, a clean, crafted, pure winemaking style, and a smooth finish with well-integrated tannin. It can be drunk now as well as over the next 10–14 years. Last tasted, 12/00.
1990 86	Less concentrated than the 1989, the soft, fruity, earthy, fully mature, dark garnet–colored 1990 exhibits the mineral, tobacco, roasted character one finds in wines from the northern viticultural region of Graves. Plump and fleshy, it has reached its zenith. Anticipated maturity: now–2005. Last tasted, 12/00.
1989 88	The 1989 La Tour Haut-Brion is excellent. Primarily a Cabernet Sauvignon–based wine (85% Cabernet, 15% Merlot), it exhibits a bold bouquet of herbs, smoke, and cassis, plenty of ripeness, medium to full body, and a big, alcoholic, low-acid finish. Anticipated maturity: now–2006. Last tasted, 1/93.
1988 83	The 1988 La Tour Haut-Brion has the telltale aggressive, hard tannins so prominent in this vintage, good body, and adequate persistence on the palate. Not charming, but austere and forceful, it should be drunk up. Last tasted, 1/93.
1986 82	The 1986 has turned out to be a soft, supple, commercial wine that lacks depth, dimension, and complexity. Anticipated maturity: now. Last tasted, 11/90.
1985 84	The 1985 is good but a little short, a trifle too tannic for the amount of fruit present, and lacking length and excitement. Anticipated maturity: now. Last tasted, 3/89.
1983 84	A potentially good La Tour Haut-Brion. However, it is lighter and more supple in texture than previous vintages of this wine. The 1983 is a product of the different approach to winemaking employed by the staff at Haut-Brion, who controlled the vinification for the first time in this vintage. Good medium to dark ruby color, spicy, soft, supple, and very approachable, this wine should mature fairly quickly. Anticipated maturity: now—probably in decline. Last tasted, 3/89.
1982 96	A remarkable wine, and one of the great sleeper wines of the vintage, this 1982, which has a formidable plum/purple color showing little evolution, offers up very roasted, scorched-earth characteristics and notes that almost smell like burning embers and barbecue spices. Some black fruits and truffle are also in the background. In the mouth, this behemoth is full-bodied, with a huge, highly extracted, unctuous texture, ferocious tannins, and remarkable intensity. It is even bigger and denser than the 1982 La Mission Haut-Brion, no doubt because this wine had far more press wine added to the blend than La Mission. If there is a flaw, it might be a tendency to be slightly rustic, but this is a Bordeaux on steroids. Anticipated maturity: 2005–2030. Last tasted, 1/03.
1981 85	The 1981 La Tour Haut-Brion is a robust, aggressive, rather tannic wine, with plenty of power and guts but lacking finesse. The color is impressively dark, and the weight of fruit and body on the palate considerable, but this is not a wine for Bordeaux enthusiasts who want immediate gratification. Anticipated maturity: now–2005. Last tasted, 3/88.
1979 85	Somewhat similar in style to the 1981, only less tannic, more open knit and fruity, yet darkly colored, the 1979 La Tour Haut-Brion has a spicy bouquet and good weight, richness, medium to full body, and length on the palate. The bouquet is beginning to mature, revealing earthy, Graves, smoky, mineral scents. This is an attractively forward La Tour Haut-Brion that can be drunk now. Anticipated maturity: now. Last tasted, 10/84.
1978 95	A great wine, and another wine to look for at auction houses because no one would expect this wine to be so profound. Deep plum/purple, with a fabulous nose of graphite, truffle, roasted meats, dried herbs, licorice, sweet black currant fruit, and smoke, this powerful, ruggedly constructed, chewy wine is very full-bodied, high in extract, and very intense, with some noticeable tannin in the finish. Anticipated maturity: now–2020. Last tasted, 11/02.
1975 96	A worthy challenger to the prodigious, sometimes perfect 1975 La Mission Haut-Brion, La Tour Haut-Brion’s 1975 still has a dense purple color, and an extraordinary nose of liquid minerals intermixed with smoky plum, fig, and currant notes as well as cedar, melted asphalt, creosote, and scorched earth. Huge in the mouth, with high tannin and mouth-staining levels of extract, this immense wine is close to full maturity, yet should last for at least two more decades. Anticipated maturity: now–2023. Last tasted, 11/02.

ANCIENT VINTAGES (RED)

The 1970 (88? points; last tasted 6/96) is a powerful, beefy, husky wine, but often reveals an excess of astringent tannin as well as noticeable volatile acidity. Also excellent, the 1966 (88 points; last tasted nearly two decades ago) may well remain in good shape. As for the 1961 (95 points; last tasted 3/79), this wine undoubtedly has plenty of life left in it based on my ancient tasting note. I would love to have come across more examples of old vintages of La Tour Haut-Brion, as those that I have tasted were extraordinary in quality. The 1947 (95 points; last tasted 1/03) was magnificently rich, with the last bottle tasted showing none of the volatile acidity that others had exhibited. It possessed huge quantities of fruit, as well as a chewy, even viscous texture. It is a great wine that should continue to drink well for another decade. The other two great vintages of La Tour Haut-Brion I have had an opportunity to taste include a massive, still backward, and frightfully young 1959. I last had this wine at a restaurant in Bordeaux in 1988, and it was still black/purple in color and at least a decade away from maturity. I rated it 92, but I am sure that when this wine has reached its apogee, it will merit a higher score. Lastly, the 1955 (94 points in 1990), while not having quite the blockbuster bouquet of its sibling—the 1955 La Mission—is still an enormously concentrated, chewy, old-style Graves that should continue to last for a minimum of two more decades. It is a shame that La Tour Haut-Brion is no longer made in this style, but shrewd buyers at auctions are well advised to seek out top vintages of old La Tour Haut-Brions that may show up from time to time.

OTHER GRAVES ESTATES

D’ARCHAMBEAU

Classification: None

Owner: Sarl Vignobles Famille Dubourdieu

Address: 33720 Illats

Telephone: 05 56 62 51 46; Telefax: 05 56 62 47 98

Visits: By appointment Monday to Saturday 10 A.M.–noon and 2–5 P.M.

Contact: Jean-Philippe and Corinne Dubourdieu (Telephone: 06 09 79 01 02)

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 44.5 acres

Grape varietals: 50% Cabernet Franc, 50% Merlot

Average age of vines: 20 years

Density of plantation: 5,500 vines per hectare

Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Three-week fermentation and maceration in stainless-steel vats. Twelve months aging in vats for 50% of the yield and in barrels (with 20% new oak) for the rest. Fining, no filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château d’Archambeau: 120,000 bottles

Château Mourlet: 24,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 3–10 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 22.2 acres

Grape varietals: 70% Sauvignon, 30% Semillon

Average age of vines: 20 years

Density of plantation: 5,500 vines per hectare

Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Three-week fermentation and maceration in stainless-steel vats. Twelve months aging in vats for 50% of the yield and in barrels (with 20% new oak) for the rest. Fining, no filtration.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château d’Archambeau: 120,000 bottles

Château Mourlet: 24,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–5 years of the vintage

The pride and joy of this small property in the commune of Cérons is the white wine, which comes from a gravelly, clay-like soil and is made under the auspices of the great white wine–making family of Dubourdieu. This means cold fermentation and the famed macération pelliculaire (prolonged skin contact with the fermenting juice). The results are wines that are remarkably fresh and fragrant, with a honeyed, creamy texture, and a long, vividly fruity, generous finish. Consumers should search out recent vintages of this white Graves for drinking in its first 5 years of life. Prices for d’Archambeau remain reasonable.

BARDINS

Classification: None

Owner: Bernardy de Sigoyer family

Address: 124, avenue de Toulouse, 33140 Cadaujac

Telephone: 05 56 30 75 85; Telefax: 05 56 30 04 99

E-mail: chateau-bardins@free.fr

Visits: By appointment only

Contact: Stella Puel

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 22.2 acres

Grape varietals: 30% Cabernet Franc, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot and Malbec

Average age of vines: 27 years

Density of plantation: 6,500 vines per hectare

Average yields: 55 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and four to five week maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Twelve months aging in barrels that are renewed by a quarter each year. Fining, light filtration upon bottling.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château Bardins: 36,000 bottles

Château Bardey: 10,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 3–7 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 1 acre

Grape varietals: Equal parts of Sauvignon, Semillon, Muscadelle

Average age of vines: 27 years

Density of plantation: 6,500 vines per hectare

Average yields: 55 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation (18–20°C) and nine months aging on lees in barrels with 20% new oak and twice weekly stirrings. Fining, no filtration.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château Bardins: 1,500 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–4 years of the vintage

I have seen only a handful of vintages from this tiny property in the commune of Cadaujac, situated adjacent to the more renowned Château Bouscaut. The proprietor has settled on an interesting percentage of grapes, with the very high percentage of Cabernet Franc for the red wines giving them a soft, spicy, herbaceous scent, and an extraordinarily high percentage of Muscadelle for the white wines to make them richly fruity, soft, and ideal for drinking young.

BARET

Classification: None

Owner: Ballande family

Address: 43, avenue des Pyrénées, 33140 Villenave d’Ornon

Telephone: 05 56 87 87 71; Telefax: 05 56 87 87 71

Visits: By appointment only

Contact: Philippe Castéja

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 45.7 acres

Grape varietals: 55% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc

Average age of vines: 20 years

Density of plantation: 8,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 55 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Three-week fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Twelve to eighteen months aging in barrels with 30% new oak. Fining, no filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château Baret: 115,000 bottles

Château de Camparian: 18,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 4–10 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 4.9 acres

Grape varietals: 70% Sauvignon, 30% Semillon

Average age of vines: 20 years

Density of plantation: 8,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 55 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Twenty-four hour cold maceration. Fermentation and eight months aging in barrels with 20% new oak. Fining, no filtration.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château Baret: 18,000 bottles

Château de Camparian: variable

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–5 years of the vintage

GENERAL APPRECIATION

The Ballande family (also the proprietors of Prieuré-Lichine) are slowly improving the quality of the wines from this well-situated estate in Pessac-Léognan. Oenologist Denis Dubourdieu, who works marvels, especially with whites, has been brought in to assist, and perhaps that explains the qualitative upgrade. Prices remain reasonable.

BOIS-MARTIN

Classification: None

Owner: GFA du Château Le Sartre et Bois-Martin—Perrin family

Address: 33850 Léognan

Telephone: 05 57 96 56 20; Telefax: 05 56 96 59 19

E-mail: chateau.carbonnieux@wanadoo.fr

Website: www.carbonnieux.com

Visits: By appointment Monday to Friday, 8:30–11 A.M. and 2–5 P.M.

Contact: Eric Perrin

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 18.5 acres

Grape varietals: 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot

Average age of vines: 15 years

Density of plantation: 7,200 vines per hectare

Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Twenty-one day fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks. Fifteen to eighteen months aging in barrels with 25% new oak. Fining and filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château Bois-Martin: 50,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 5–10 years of the vintage

BOYREIN

Classification: None

Owner: Médeville family

Address: 33410 Roaillan

Mailing address: c/o Jean Médeville et Fils, Château Fayau, 33410 Cadillac

Telephone: 05 57 98 08 08; Telefax: 05 56 62 18 22

E-mail: medeville-jeanetfils@wanadoo.fr

Visits: By appointment only

Contact: Jacques Médeville

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 19.8 acres

Grape varietals: 50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc

Average age of vines: 35 years

Density of plantation: 3,000–5,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 42 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and 15–25 day maceration in temperature-controlled concrete vats. Twenty-four months aging in vats. Fining, no filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château Boyrein: 60,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–7 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 9.9 acres

Grape varietals: 50% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Muscadelle, 20% Semillon

Average age of vines: 15 years

Density of plantation: 3,000–5,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 40 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Cold stabilization. Eight to ten day fermentation at low temperature. Six months aging on lees. Fining, no filtration.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château Boyrein: 30,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–8 years of the vintage

BRONDELLE

Classification: None

Owner: Vignobles Belloc-Rochet

Address: 33210 Langon

Telephone: 05 56 62 38 14; Telefax: 05 56 62 23 14

E-mail: chateau.brondelle@wanadoo.fr

Visits: Monday to Friday, 9 A.M.–12:30 P.M. and 2–6 P.M.

Contact: Jean-Noël Belloc

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 61.7 acres

Grape varietals: 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot

Average age of vines: 20 years

Density of plantation: 5,000–6,600 vines per hectare

Average yields: 55 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation (20–28°C) and three to five week maceration in temperature-controlled vats. Malolactics in barrel for part of yield. Twelve months aging in barrels with 80% new oak. Fining, no filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château Brondelle: 50,000 bottles

Château La Rose Sarron: 60,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 4–10 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 37 acres

Grape varietals: 50% Semillon, 45% Sauvignon, 5% Muscadelle

Average age of vines: 20 years

Density of plantation: 5,000–6,600 vines per hectare

Average yields: 55 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and 10 months aging in barrels with 60% new oak and regular stirrings. No fining, light filtration upon bottling.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château Brondelle: 60,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 5–7 years of the vintage

CABANNIEUX

Classification: None

Owner: Régine Dudignac-Barrière

Address: 44, route de Courneau, 33640 Portets

Telephone: 05 57 67 22 01; Telefax: 05 56 67 32 54

E-mail: dudignacbarriere@free.fr

Visits: By appointment Monday to Friday 9 A.M.–noon and 2–7 P.M.

Contact: Régine Dudignac-Barrière

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 32.1 acres

Grape varietals: 50% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc

Average age of vines: 30 years

Density of plantation: 5,500 vines per hectare

Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and 21 day maceration in temperature-controlled tanks. Fifteen to eighteen months aging in barrels with 20% new oak. Fining and filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château Cabannieux: 90,000 bottles

Château de Curcier: 90,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–8 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 17.3 acres

Grape varietals: 80% Semillon, 20% Sauvignon Blanc

Average age of vines: 25 years

Density of plantation: 5,500 vines per hectare

Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and eight months aging on lees in vats for part of the yield and in new oak barrels for the rest. Fining and filtration.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château Cabannieux: 40,000 bottles

Château de Curcier: 40,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–4 years of the vintage

DU CAILLOU

Classification: None

Owner: Oudinot family

Address: route de Saint-Cricq, 33720 Cérons

Telephone: 05 56 27 17 60; Telefax: 05 56 27 00 31

Visits: By appointment only

Contact: Philippe Oudinot

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 9.9 acres

Grape varietals: 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon

Average age of vines: 35 years

Density of plantation: 6,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 55 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Three day cold maceration. Fermentation and 21–28 day maceration with frequent pigeages in temperature-controlled vats. Twelve months aging in one-year old barrels. Fining, no filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château du Caillou: 12,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–5 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 15.7 acres

Grape varietals: 50% Semillon, 25% Sauvignon Blanc, 25% Sauvignon Gris

Average age of vines: 35 years

Density of plantation: 6,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 55 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and eight months aging on lees in stainless-steel vats (for the generic cuvée) or in new oak barrels (for the special cuvée). Fining and filtration.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château du Caillou: 30,000 bottles

Château du Caillou Cuvée Saint-Cricq: 12,500 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–5 years of the vintage

CANTELYS

Classification: None

Owner: SARL D. Cathiard

Address: 33650 Martillac

Mailing address: c/o GFA Malice, 4, chemin de Bourrau, 33650 Martillac

Telephone: 05 57 83 11 22; Telefax: 05 57 83 11 21

E-mail: f.cathiard@smith-haut-lafitte.com

No visits

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 44.5 acres

Grape varietals: 60% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc

Average age of vines: 30 years

Density of plantation: 7,500–10,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 30 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation at 30°C and 24–32 day maceration in temperature-controlled wooden vats of 85-hectoliter capacity on average. Malolactics and 14 months aging on lees (with stirring) in barrels with 80% new oak. Fining if necessary, no filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château Cantelys: 60,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 3–12 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 24.7 acres

Grape varietals: 75% Sauvignon Blanc, 25% Semillon

Average age of vines: 30 years

Density of plantation: 7,500–10,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 30 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation at 20°C and 10 months aging on lees with stirring in barrels with 50% new oak. Fining, no filtration.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château Cantelys: 60,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–5 years of the vintage

DE CARRELASSE

Classification: None

Owner: SCEA du Château de Gaillat

Address: 33210 Langon

Mailing address: c/o Château de Gaillat, 33210 Langon

Telephone: 05 56 63 50 77; Telefax: 05 56 62 20 96

Visits: By appointment only

Contact: Yves Bertrand and Hélène Bertrand-Coste

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 14.8 acres

Grape varietals: 50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc

Average age of vines: 30 years

Density of plantation: 5,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 45–50 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Seven day cold maceration. Fermentation at 30–32°C and 21–35 day maceration in temperature-controlled vats. Twelve to eighteen months aging by rotation in barrels (10% new oak) for half the yield and in vats for the other half. Fining and filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château de Carrelasse: 35,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 5–12 years of the vintage

CHERET-PITRES

Classification: None

Owner: Pascal and Caroline Dulugat

Address: 33640 Portets

Telephone: 05 56 67 27 76; Telefax: 05 56 67 27 76

Visits: By appointment only

Contact: Caroline or Pascal Dulugat

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 13.8 acres

Grape varietals: 60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc

Average age of vines: 40 years

Density of plantation: 5,600 vines per hectare

Average yields: 60 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and prolonged maceration in temperature-controlled vats. Twelve months aging with 60% of yield in barrels (40% new oak), the rest in vats, followed by six months further aging in vats. Fining and filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château Cheret-Pitres: 20,000 bottles

Château Cheret: 10,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 3–8 years of the vintage

I have frequently been satisfied by the smoky, tobacco, richly fruity character of the wines of Cheret-Pitres, and I have enthusiastic tasting notes of many vintages. It is not a well-known wine, but because of that it is often a super value. The vineyard is located in the commune of Portets, and no doubt the old vines and high percentage of Merlot give this wine its characteristic fatness and suppleness. No white wine is made at this property.

CHICANE

Classification: None

Owner: François Gauthier

Address: 1, route de Garonne, 33210 Toulenne

Telephone: 05 56 76 43 73; Telefax: 05 56 76 42 60

Visits: By appointment only

Contact: François Gauthier

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 13.3 acres

Grape varietals: 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 10% Malbec

Average age of vines: 20 years

Density of plantation: 3,300–5,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 45–50 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentations last three weeks in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks. Wines are transferred to oak casks, which are renewed by one-quarter each vintage, for 12 months aging. They are fined and filtered.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château Chicane: 28,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–5 years of the vintage

CLOS FLORIDENE

Classification: None

Owner: Denis and Florence Dubourdieu

Address: 33210 Pujol-sur-Cirons

Mailing address: c/o Château Reynon, 33410 Beguey

Telephone: 05 56 62 96 51; Telefax: 05 56 62 14 89

E-mail: reynon@gofornet.com

Visits: By appointment only

Contact: Florence Dubourdieu

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 32.1 acres

Grape varietals: 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot

Average age of vines: 25 years

Density of plantation: 5,550 vines per hectare

Average yields: 40 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and three-week maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Twelve months aging in barrels with 35% new oak. Fining and filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Clos Floridene: 25,000 bottles

Château Montalivet: variable

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–8 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 12.4 acres

Grape varietals: 45% Sauvignon Blanc, 45% Semillon, 10% Muscadelle

Average age of vines: 25 years

Density of plantation: 7,150 vines per hectare

Average yields: 37 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and 11 months aging on lees in barrels with 25% new oak. Fining and filtration.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Clos Floridene: 5,500 bottles

Château Montalivet: 5,000–10,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–5 years of the vintage

GENERAL APPRECIATION

This estate, somewhat of an insider’s secret, produces fine red and white wines. The brilliant dry white wine is full of fruit as well as character. It would merit cru classé status if a new classification were implemented. The well-made red wine offerings are best drunk early in life.

This small domain is owned by the white wine–making guru of Bordeaux, Denis Dubourdieu. He has long been given credit, and justifiably so, for revolutionizing the making of white wine in the Bordeaux region with his technique called macération pelliculaire. This process permits a period of contact between the skins of the grapes and the juice at a relatively low temperature. This is done because of Dubourdieu’s belief, now confirmed by other authorities, that it is the components in the grape’s skin that give the wine its aromatic complexity and richness of fruit.

One taste of the wonderful wines he makes reveals that Clos Floridene is a superb white Graves, nearly matching the quality of such legends as Laville Haut-Brion, Haut-Brion-Blanc, and Domaine de Chevalier. The price remains a relative steal, although Dubourdieu’s talents have been recognized throughout Europe and Great Britain; Clos Floridene has indeed been discovered. This is a terribly underestimated, excellent wine that deserves to be a classified growth in the Graves firmament. A modest quantity of good, smooth, red wine is made, but it doesn’t share the dazzling qualities of the white wine.

CLOS MARSALETTE

Classification: None

Owner: Stephan von Neipperg, Francis Boutemy, and M. Sarpoulet

Address: route de Labrède, 33650 Martillac

Mailing address: c/o Château Haut Lagrange, 31, route de Labrède, 33850 Léognan or c/o

Château Canon-la-Gaffelière, 33330 St.-Emilion

Telephone: 05 56 64 09 93

E-mail: chateau.haut-lagrange@wanadoo.fr

Visits: By appointment only

Contact: Franci Boutemy

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 15.8 acres

Grape varietals: 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot

Average age of vines: 10 years

Density of plantation: 7,700 vines per hectare

Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Forty-eight hour maceration at room temperature. Fermentation and 20 day maceration in temperature-controlled concrete vats. After malolactics, 18 months aging by rotation in vats for 75% of the yield and in new oak barrels for the rest. Fining and filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Clos Marsalette: 40,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 3–10 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 1.5 acres

Grape varietals: 50% Sauvignon, 50% Semillon

Average age of vines: 10 years

Density of plantation: 7,700 vines per hectare

Average yields: 40 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Whole cluster pressing, settling over one to three days, fermentation and eight months aging on lees in vats (for 90% of the yield) and in new oak barrels (for 10% of the yield) with twice weekly stirrings. No fining, filtration.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Clos Marsalette: 3,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–5 years of the vintage

COSTE DE MONS

Classification: None

Owner: SCEA du Château de Gaillat

Address: 33210 Saint-Pierre de Mons

Mailing address: c/o Château de Gaillat, 33210 Langon

Telephone: 05 56 63 50 77; Telefax: 05 56 62 20 96

Visits: By appointment only

Contact: Yves Bertrand and Hélène Bertrand-Coste

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 4.9 acres

Grape varietals: 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Carmenère, 7% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc

Average age of vines: 45–50 years

Density of plantation: 8,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 32 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Seven day cold maceration. Fermentation at high temperatures and five months maceration in temperature-controlled vats. Eighteen months aging in new oak barrels. Fining and filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château de Coste de Mons: 8,500 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–8 years of the vintage

COUCHÉROY

Classification: None

Location of vineyards: Martillac

Owner: André Lurton

Address: 33650 Martillac

Mailing address: SCEA Les Vignobles André Lurton, Château Bonnet, 33420 Grézillac

Telephone: 33 5 57 25 58 58; Telefax: 33 5 57 74 98 59

No visits

VINEYARDS (RED)

Average age of vines: 10–12 years

Blend: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot

Density of plantation: 6,500–8,500 vines per hectare

Elevage: 12–14 months in oak casks. Fermentations last about 21 days in temperature controlled stainless-steel tanks. Malolactics occur partly in tanks and partly in oak barrels. Wines are transferred for 12 months aging to oak barrels in November (25–30% new oak). The wines are fined and filtered.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château Couchéroy: 80,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 3–10 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Average age of vines: 10–12 years

Blend: 90% Sauvignon, 10% Semillon

Density of plantation: 6,500 to 8,500 vines per hectare

Elevage: 8 months in cask and vat. Fermentations occur partly in temperature controlled stainless-steel vats and partly in oak barrels. Wines remain on lees for approximately 10 months and are fined and filtered before bottling.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château Couchéroy: 25,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–8 years of the vintage

COURRÈGES SEGUÈS DU CHÂTEAU DE GAILLAT

Classification: None

Owner: Hélène Bertrand-Coste

Address: 33210 Saint-Pierre de Mons

Mailing address: c/o Château de Gaillat, 33210 Langon

Telephone: 05 56 63 50 77; Telefax: 05 56 62 20 96

Visits: By appointment only

Contact: Yves Bertrand and Hélène Bertrand-Coste

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 7.4 acres

Grape varietals: 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 10% Malbec

Average age of vines: 30–50 years

Density of plantation: 7,200 vines per hectare

Average yields: 45 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Seven day cold maceration. Fermentation at high temperatures and five months maceration in temperature-controlled vats. Twelve to fifteen months aging in barrels (35% new oak). Fining, no filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Courrèges Seguès du Château de Gaillat: 15,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–8 years of the vintage

DE CRUZEAU

Classification: None

Owner: André Lurton

Address: 33650 Saint-Médard-d’Eyrans

Mailing address: Vignobles André Lurton, Château Bonnet, 33420 Grézillac

Telephone: 05 57 25 58 58; Telefax: 05 57 74 98 59

E-mail: andrelurton@andrelurton.com

Website: www.andrelurton.com

Visits: By appointment Monday to Friday, 9 A.M.–5 P.M.

Contact: Véronique Bouffard

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 165.5 acres

Grape varietals: 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc

Average age of vines: 20–22 years

Density of plantation: 6,500–8,500 vines per hectare

Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Three week fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Twelve months aging in barrels with 25–30% new oak and racking every three months. Fining and filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château de Cruzeau: 150,000 bottles

No second wine produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 5–8 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 74.1 acres

Grape varietals: 100% Sauvignon Blanc

Average age of vines: 20–22 years

Density of plantation: 6,500–8,500 vines per hectare

Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: After cold settling, 10–15 day fermentation (at 18–23°C) in barrels with 30–50% new oak. Nine months aging on lees with regular stirrings. Fining and filtration.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château de Cruzeau: 60,000 bottles

No second wine produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–6 years of the vintage

GENERAL APPRECIATION

A shrewd choice for knowledgeable wine buyers, this estate fashions excellent white as well as red wine, no doubt because of the attention to detail lavished on the wines by proprietor André Lurton. The vineyards are situated on one of the Graves region’s highest ridges, with a full southerly exposure. The soil is pure, deep, sandy gravel of the highest quality for top white and red wines.

André Lurton, who has created quite a viticultural empire for himself in the Graves region, purchased this property in 1973 and began extensive replanting in 1979. The new vineyard is young by Bordeaux standards, but the wine has already begun to show promising potential. Using machine harvesters for the red wine and producing a creamy textured, open-knit, richly fruity, smoky-scented red Graves have proven beneficial for attracting buyers looking for immediate gratification.

The white wine, made from grapes that are hand-harvested and vinified in stainless steel with no exposure to oak, has an almost California-like style, with a great deal of fruit. However, the wine must be drunk within its first several years of life.

Prices for the wines of Cruzeau are remarkably fair, and therein lies much of this wine’s appeal.

FERRANDE

Classification: None

Owner: SCE du Château Ferrande

Address: 33640 Castres

Telephone: 05 56 67 05 86

Visits: By appointment only

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 84 acres

Grape varietals: 34% Merlot, 33% Cabernet Franc, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon

Average age of vines: 25 years

Density of plantation: 4,500–5,500 vines per hectare

Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château Ferrande: 200,000 bottles

Château Guillon: 12,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 3–10 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 22.2 acres

Grape varietals: 60% Semillon, 35% Sauvignon, 5% Muscadelle

Average age of vines: 25 years

Average yields: 45 hectoliters per hectare

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château Guillon: 54,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–7 years of the vintage

This is a consistently reliable, if uninspiring, estate in the commune of Castres. The property has been under the ownership of the Delnaud family since 1954. I have found both the red and white wines of Ferrande to be among the most earthy of the Graves region. In tastings I have noticed that this characteristic can either be admired or disliked intensely.

The white wines have improved a great deal in the last decade and now have much more charm and fruit in evidence. The white wine has a tendency to be not only aggressively earthy, but also extremely austere and angular. The wines are priced fairly and age fairly well, particularly the reds.

LA FLEUR JONQUET

Classification: None

Owner: Laurence Lataste

Address: Le Puy de Choyne, Arbanats, 33640 Portets

Mailing address: 5, rue Amélie, 33200 Bordeaux

Telephone: 05 56 17 08 18; Telefax: 05 57 22 12 54

E-mail: l.lataste@en.france.com

Visits: By appointment Monday to Friday (except Wednesdays), 9 A.M.–noon and 2–6 P.M.

Contact: Laurence Lataste

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 14.8 acres

Grape varietals: 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc

Average age of vines: 15 years

Density of plantation: 5,800 vines per hectare

Average yields: 58 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and 21 day maceration in temperature-controlled concrete tanks. Eighteen months aging in barrels with 25% new oak. Fining and light filtration upon bottling.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château La Fleur Jonquet: 22,000 bottles

J de Jonquet: 4,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–5 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 2.5 acres

Grape varietals: 50% Sauvignon Blanc, 50% Semillon

Average age of vines: 15 years

Density of plantation: 5,800 vines per hectare

Average yields: 57 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and 12 months aging on lees in barrels with 30% new oak and frequent stirrings. Fining and filtration.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château La Fleur Jonquet: 5,000 bottles

J de Jonquet: 1,600 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–4 years of the vintage

DES FOUGÈRES—CLOS MONTESQUIEU

Classification: None

Owner: SCEA des Vignobles Montesquieu

Address: 33650 La Brède

Telephone: 05 56 78 45 45; Telefax: 05 56 20 25 07

E-mail: montesquieu@montesquieu.com

Visits: By appointment only

Contact: Hélène Guigné

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 12.4 acres

Grape varietals: 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon

Average age of vines: 25 years

Density of plantation: 8,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 35 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and 28 day maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks with manual pigeage. Malolactics and 18 months aging on lees with micro-oxygenation in barrels (35% new oak and 65% one-year-old barrels). Fining, no filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Des Fougères—Clos Montesquieu: 36,000 bottles

GENERAL APPRECIATION

It is not too soon to offer some exciting news. This estate is supervised by Patrick Baseden, who is better known as the owner of the St.-Emilion estates of La Bienfaisance and Sanctus. Baseden brought in the hot-shot wine guru Stéphane Derénoncourt to begin making the wines in 2002. This obscure property could become a name to reckon with in the future. Stay tuned.

DE FRANCE

Classification: None

Owner: SA B. Thomassin

Address: 98, avenue de Mont de Marsan, 33850 Léognan

Telephone: 05 56 64 75 39; Telefax: 05 56 64 72 13

E-mail: chateau-de-france@chateau-de-france.com

Website: www.chateau-de-france.com

Visits: By appointment Monday to Friday, 9 A.M.–5 P.M.

Contact: Bernard Thomassin

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 76.6 acres

Grape varietals: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot

Average age of vines: 20 years

Density of plantation: 6,950 vines per hectare

Average yields: 52 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and one month maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Fourteen months aging in barrels that are renewed by half at each vintage. Fining and filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château de France: 100,000 bottles

Château Coquillas: 60,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 4–10 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 14.8 acres

Grape varietals: 70% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Semillon

Average age of vines: 20 years

Density of plantation: 6,950 vines per hectare

Average yields: 52 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and 10 months aging on lees in barrels with 50% new oak and 50% one-year-old barrels. Fining and filtration.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château de France: 10,000 bottles

Château Coquillas: 4,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–5 years of the vintage

GENERAL APPRECIATION

De France is another Graves estate that has improved over the past years. Both the reds and whites of this estate are traditional-styled, soundly made wines that deliver the goods, and even more than that in the best vintages.

Virtually the entire vineyard of this property, which is a neighbor of the more-renowned Château de Fieuzal, has been replanted since 1971. The proprietor—an industrialist—has spared little expense in renovating the property and building a new winery with state-of-the-art stainless-steel fermentation tanks. The early results were not impressive, but in 1986 proprietor Thomassin began to do two things that have had a positive impact on the resulting wines. First, he decided to harvest as late as possible. Second, a severe selection of the finished wine was employed so that only the best vats were sold under the de France name.

DE GAILLAT

Classification: None

Owner: Hélène Bertrand-Coste

Address: 33210 Langon

Mailing address: c/o Château de Gaillat, 33210 Langon

Telephone: 05 56 63 50 77; Telefax: 05 56 62 20 96

Visits: By appointment only

Contact: Yves Bertrand and Hélène Bertrand-Coste

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 29.6 acres

Grape varietals: 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Malbec

Average age of vines: 30 years

Density of plantation: 6,600 vines per hectare

Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Seven day cold maceration. Fermentation at 30–32°C with pumpings-over and pigeages and 21–35 day maceration in temperature-controlled vats. Twelve to eighteen months aging by rotation in barrels (10% new oak) for half the yield and in vats for the other half. Fining and filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château de Gaillat: 60,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–5 years of the vintage

GAZIN ROCQUENCOURT

Classification: None

Owner: Michotte family

Address: 74, avenue de Cestas, 33850 Léognan

Telephone: 05 56 64 77 89; Telefax: 05 56 64 77 89

Visits: By appointment only

Contact: M. Fernandes

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 34.6 acres

Grape varietals: 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot

Average age of vines: 18 years

Density of plantation: 6,500 vines per hectare

Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and 21 day maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Twelve months aging in barrels that are renewed by a third at each vintage. Fining and filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château Gazin Rocquencourt: 48,000 bottles

Château Gazin Michotte: 17,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–10 years of the vintage

DU GRAND ABORD

Classification: None

Owner: Vignobles M.C. Dugoua

Address: 56, route des Graves, 33640 Portets

Telephone: 05 56 67 22 79; Telefax: 05 56 67 22 23

Visits: By appointment only

Contact: Colette Dugoua

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 42 acres

Grape varietals: 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon

Average age of vines: 40–50 years

Density of plantation: 5,000–5,500 vines per hectare

Average yields: 55 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and 18 day maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Eighteen months aging with half the yield in vats and the other half in barrels that are renewed by half at each vintage. Fining and filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château du Grand Abord: 20,000 bottles

Château Bel Air/Château Lagarde: 80,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–5 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 7.4 acres

Grape varietals: 80% Semillon, 20% Sauvignon

Average age of vines: 40–50 years

Density of plantation: 5,000–5,500 vines per hectare

Average yields: 55 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and three to four months aging in stainless-steel tanks. Fining and filtration.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château du Grand Abord: 7,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 1–4 years of the vintage

DU GRAND BOS

Classification: None

Owner: André Vincent

Address: chemin de l’Hermitage, 33640 Castres

Telephone: 05 56 67 39 20; Telefax: 05 56 67 16 77

E-mail: chateau.du.grand.bos@free.fr

Visits: By appointment only

Contact: Philippe Fort (Telephone: 05 56 67 02 21; Telefax: 05 56 67 16 77)

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 31.4 acres

Grape varietals: 46.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot, 6.5% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc and Malbec

Average age of vines: 30 years

Density of plantation: 5,600 vines per hectare

Average yields: 46 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Cold maceration. Fermentation and prolonged maceration in temperature-controlled vats with frequent pumpings-over. Twelve to fifteen months aging in barrels with 33–50% new oak. Fining not systematic, no filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château du Grand Bos: 370,000 bottles

Château Plégat La Gravière: 20,000–25,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–5 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 2.5 acres

Grape varietals: 60% Semillon, 30% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Muscadelle

Average age of vines: 20–60 years

Density of plantation: 5,600 vines per hectare

Average yields: 25–30 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and eight months aging on lees in new oak barrels with frequent stirrings. No fining, light filtration upon bottling.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château du Grand Bos: 3,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 1–4 years of the vintage

GRAVILLE-LACOSTE

Classification: None

Owner: Hervé Dubourdieu

Address: 33720 Pujols-sur-Ciron

Mailing address: c/o Château Roumieu-Lacoste, 33720 Barsac

Telephone: 05 56 27 16 29; Telefax: 05 56 27 02 65

E-mail: hervedubourdieu@aol.com

Visits: By appointment only

Contact: Hervé Dubourdieu

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 19.8 acres

Grape varietals: 70% Semillon, 20% Sauvignon, 10% Muscadelle

Average age of vines: 45 years

Density of plantation: 4,800 vines per hectare

Average yields: 49 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Cold stabilization at 2°C before fermentation. Fermentation and six months aging in stainless-steel vats. Fining, no filtration.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château Graville-Lacoste: 52,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–5 years of the vintage

GENERAL APPRECIATION

This excellent white wine, which consistently qualifies as a value pick, is a must buy. Consumers take note, as it is well worth many a grand cru classé of the appellation.

Note: The estate also produces a white Bordeaux: Château Ducasse: 30,000–60,000 bottles (depending upon the vintage).

DOMAINE DU HAURET LALANDE

Classification: None

Owner: Jean-Frédéric Lalande

Address: 33720 Illats

Mailing address: c/o Château Piada, 33720 Barsac

Telephone: 05 56 27 16 13; Telefax: 05 56 27 26 30

Visits: Monday to Friday, 9 A.M.–noon and 1:30–6 P.M. By appointment on weekends.

Contact: Jean-Frédéric Lalande

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 6.2 acres

Grape varietals: 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot

Average age of vines: 13 years

Density of plantation: 6,600 vines per hectare

Average yields: 58 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Thirteen months aging in three- to five-year-old barrels. Fining, no filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Domaine du Hauret-Lalande: 13,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–8 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 7.4 acres

Grape varietals: 75% Semillon, 25% Sauvignon

Average age of vines: 36 years

Density of plantation: 5,500 vines per hectare

Average yields: 60 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and five months aging in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Fining, no filtration.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Domaine du Hauret Lalande: 9,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 1–5 years of the vintage

HAUT-CALENS

Classification: None

Owner: EARL Vignobles Albert Yung

Address: 10, allée des Aulbnes, 33640 Beautiran

Telephone: 05 56 67 05 25; Telefax: 05 56 67 24 91

E-mail: vignobles.albertyung@wanadoo.fr

Visits: Monday to Friday, 9–11:30 A.M. and 2 P.M.–5:30 P.M.

Contact: Albert Yung

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 27.2 acres

Grape varietals: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot

Average age of vines: 20 years

Density of plantation: 5,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 55 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and 28 day maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats with twice-daily pigeages during fermentation. Twenty-four months aging in vats. Fining and filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château Haut-Calens: 30,000 bottles

Château de Pontac: 5,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–5 years of the vintage

HAUT-GARDÈRE

Classification: None

Owner: Loeclann Quinn

Address: 124, avenue de Mont de Marsan, 33850 Léognan

Telephone: 05 56 64 77 86; Telefax: 05 56 64 18 88

E-mail: ch.fieuzal@terre-net.fr

Website: www.fieuzal.com

Visits: By appointment only

Contact: Brigitte Talon

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 69.9 acres

Grape varietals: 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc

Average age of vines: 30 years

Density of plantation: 10,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 45 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Cold maceration. Fermentation (at 27°C) in temperature-controlled vats. Malolactics and 18–24 months aging in barrels that are renewed by a third every three months. Fining, no filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château Haut-Gardère: 35,000–40,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 5–12 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 14.1 acres

Grape varietals: 50% Sauvignon Blanc, 50% Semillon

Average age of vines: 30 years

Density of plantation: 10,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 45 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Direct pressing. Fermentation and 16–18 months aging on lees in barrels (50% new oak for Semillon and one-year-old barrels for Sauvignon Blanc). Fining, no filtration.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château Haut-Gardère: 15,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 4–6 years of the vintage

Note: This estate belongs to de Fieuzal.

GENERAL APPRECIATION

This property is extremely well run. In spite of the youth of the vines, the last several vintages have produced generously rich, tobacco-scented, flavorful red wines and stylish white wines. The vineyard sits on a very fine outcropping of gravelly soil in the Léognan area. Prices are remarkably low, largely because word has not circulated about how good these wines can be. Before World War II Haut-Gardère had such a high reputation, it sold for the same price as Domaine de Chevalier, de Fieuzal, and Malartic-Lagravière.

HAUT LAGRANGE

Classification: None

Owner: Francis Boutemy

Address: 31, route de Loustalade, 33850 Léognan

Telephone: 05 56 64 09 93; Telefax: 05 56 64 10 08

E-mail: chateau.haut-lagrange@wanadoo.fr

Visits: By appointment only, Monday to Friday

Contact: Francis Boutemy

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 44.5 acres

Grape varietals: 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot

Average age of vines: 10 years

Density of plantation: 7,700 vines per hectare

Average yields: 55 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and 20 day maceration in temperature-controlled concrete tanks. Eighteen months aging, with 25% of yield in new oak barrels, the rest in vats. Fining and filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château Haut Lagrange: 130,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–6 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 4.2 acres

Grape varietals: 50% Semillon, 45% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Sauvignon Gris

Average age of vines: 10 years

Density of plantation: 7,700 vines per hectare

Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation in vats (90% of yield) and new oak (10% of yield) and eight months aging, with stirring of the lees for the wines in vats. No fining, filtration.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château Haut Lagrange: 11,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–4 years of the vintage

HAUT-NOUCHET

Classification: None

Owner: Louis Lurton

Address: 33650 Martillac

Telephone: 05 56 72 69 74; Telefax: 05 56 72 56 11

Visits: By appointment only

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 69.2 acres

Grape varietals: 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot

Average age of vines: 10 years

Density of plantation: 6,600 vines per hectare

Average yields: 32 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentations are rather long (three to four weeks) and occur in stainless-steel tanks. Wines are transferred to oak casks (renewed by a third at each vintage) and are aged for 16 months. They are fined but not filtered.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château Haut-Nouchet: 78,000 bottles

Domaine du Milan: 42,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–5 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 27.2 acres

Grape varietals: 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot

Average age of vines: 13 years

Density of plantation: 6,600 vines per hectare

Average yields: 21 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentations occur in barrels, renewed by a quarter at each vintage. Wines remain on lees for six to eight months with regular stirring. They are fined and filtered.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château Haut-Nouchet: 30,000 bottles

Domaine du Milan: variable

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–4 years of the vintage

HAUT-VIGNEAU

Classification: None

Owner: GFA du Château Haut-Vigneau—Perrin family

Address: 33850 Léognan

Telephone: 05 57 96 56 20; Telefax: 05 56 96 59 19

E-mail: chateau.carbonnieux@wanadoo.fr

Website: www.carbonnieux.com

Visits: By appointment Monday to Friday, 8:30–11 A.M. and 2–5 P.M.

Contact: Eric Perrin

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 49.4 acres

Grape varietals: 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot

Average age of vines: 15 years

Density of plantation: 7,200 vines per hectare

Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Twenty-one day fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks. Fifteen to eighteen months aging in barrels with 20% new oak. Fining and filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château Haut-Vigneau: 120,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–5 years of the vintage

DE L’HOSPITAL

Classification: None

Owner: Jean-Paul and Marie-Claude Lafragette

Address: Lieu-dit Darrouban, 33640 Portets

Mailing address: c/o Château Loudenne, 33340 Saint-Yzans-de-Médoc

Telephone: 05 56 67 54 73; Telefax: 05 56 67 09 93

Visits: By appointment only

Contact: Florence Lafragette (Telephone: 05 56 73 17 80; Telefax: 05 56 09 02 87; e-mail: chateau-loudenne@wanadoo.fr)

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 29.6 acres

Grape varietals: 85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon

Average age of vines: 25–50 years

Density of plantation: 5,500 vines per hectare

Average yields: 50–55 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and 15–21 day maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Twelve months aging in barrels that are renewed by a third every vintage. Fining and filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château de l’Hospital: 65,000 bottles

Château Thibaut-Ducasse: 18,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 5–10 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 7 acres

Grape varietals: 60% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Semillon

Average age of vines: 30–50 years

Density of plantation: 5,500 vines per hectare

Average yields: 42 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Alcoholic fermentation in vats. Aging on lees in new oak barrels with regular stirrings. Fining, no filtration.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château de l’Hospital: 10,000 bottles

Château Thibaut-Ducasse: 18,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 3–8 years of the vintage

GENERAL APPRECIATION

Lamentably, I have never been impressed with the wines from this property, whose château is classified as a historic monument under French law. The red wines tend to be stubbornly hard, austere, dusty, and not always the cleanest examples of winemaking. The minuscule quantity of white wine is flinty, smoky, sometimes overwhelmingly earthy and austere. They would seemingly benefit from a small quantity of Semillon to give the wines more fat, flesh, and charm. The wines of l’Hospital are seen in some marketplaces but are generally overpriced.

JEAN GERVAIS

Classification: None

Owner: SCEA Counilh et fils

Address: 51/53, route des Graves, 33640 Portets

Telephone: 05 56 67 18 61; Telefax: 05 56 67 32 43

Visits: Monday to Friday, 9 A.M. to noon and 1–6 P.M. By appointment on weekends.

Contact: Francois Counilh or Denis Counilh

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 69.2 acres

Grape varietals: 60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon

Average age of vines: 25 years

Density of plantation: 6,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and 12–18 day maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel rototanks with frequent pumpings-over. Eighteen months aging in epoxy-lined vats. Fining, no filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château Jean Gervais: 120,000 bottles

Château Tour de Cluchon: 40,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–5 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 32.1 acres

Grape varietals: 90% Semillon, 5% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Muscadelle

Average age of vines: 35 years

Density of plantation: 5,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 58 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and 9–12 months aging on lees in temperature-controlled stainless-steel rototanks. Fining and filtration.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château Jean Gervais: 60,000 bottles

Château Tour de Cluchon: 20,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 1–4 years of the vintage

LAFARGUE

Classification: None

Owner: Jean-Marie Leymarie

Address: 5, impasse de Domy, 33650 Martillac

Telephone: 05 56 72 72 30; Telefax: 05 56 72 64 61

E-mail: chateau-lafargue@wanadoo.fr

Website: www.chateau-lafargue.com

Visits: By appointment Monday to Friday, 8 A.M. to noon and 2–6 P.M. (to 4 P.M. on Fridays)

Contact: Jean-Pierre Leymarie or Muriel Brunel

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 54.3 acres

Grape varietals: 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 2.5% Malbec, 2.5% Petit Verdot

Average age of vines: 25 years

Density of plantation: 6,500 vines per hectare

Average yields: 52 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Four to five week fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats with micro-oxygenation of lees. Twelve to fifteen months aging in barrels that are renewed by a third at each vintage. Fining, filtration not systematic.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château Lafargue: 150,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–4 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 4.9 acres

Grape varietals: 70% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Sauvignon Gris

Average age of vines: 25 years

Density of plantation: 6,500 vines per hectare

Average yields: 52 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and aging on lees with stirring in oak barrels with 50% new oak. Fining and filtration.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château Lafargue: 9,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–6 years of the vintage

LAFONT MENAUT

Classification: None

Owner: Philibert Perrin

Address: 33850 Léognan

Telephone: 05 57 96 56 20; Telefax: 05 56 96 59 19

E-mail: chateau.carbonnieux@wanadoo.fr

Website: www.carbonnieux.com

Visits: By appointment Monday to Friday 8:30–11 A.M. and 2–5 P.M.

Contact: Philibert Perrin

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 29.6 acres

Grape varietals: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot

Average age of vines: 12 years

Density of plantation: 7,200 vines per hectare

Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Twenty-one day fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks. Fifteen to eighteen months aging in barrels with 20–25% new oak. Fining and filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château Lafont Menaut: 70,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–8 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 7.4 acres

Grape varietals: 80% Sauvignon, 20% Semillon

Average age of vines: 12 years

Density of plantation: 7,200 vines per hectare

Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: After cold settling, fermentation and 10 months aging in barrels with 20% new oak. Fining and filtration.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château Lafont Menaut: 20,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–6 years of the vintage

LAMOUROUX

Classification: None

Owner: Olivier Lataste

Address: Grand Enclos du Château de Cérons, 33720 Cérons

Telephone: 05 56 27 01 53; Telefax: 05 56 27 08 86

Visits: By appointment only

Contact: Olivier Lataste

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 4.9 acres

Grape varietals: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot

Average age of vines: 20 years

Density of plantation: 6,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 45 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentations last 15–20 days depending upon the vintage. Wines are aged for 16 months in two- to three-year-old oak barrels. They are fined and filtered.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château Lamouroux: 12,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 3–12 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 59.3 acres

Grape varietals: 60% Semillon, 40% Sauvignon

Average age of vines: 30 years

Density of plantation: 6,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 40 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentations occur in barrels renewed by a third at each vintage, and wines are bottled after 18 months. They are fined and filtered.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Grand Enclos du Château de Cérons: 12,000 bottles

Château Lamouroux: 60,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–10 years of the vintage

DE LANDIRAS

Classification: None

Owner: SCA Domaine La Grave

Address: 33720 Landiras

Telephone: 05 56 62 44 70; Telefax: 05 56 62 43 78

Visits: By appointment only

Contact: Peter Vinding-Diers

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 3.7 acres

Grape varietals: 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot

Average age of vines: 30 years

Density of plantation: 5,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 45 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentations are rather short and occur in stainless-steel vats. Wines undergo malolactics in barrels. Percentage of new oak depends upon the vintage. Wines are fined but not filtered.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château de Landiras: 2,400 bottles

La Colombe de Landiras: 3,600 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 3–10 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 31.6 acres

Grape varietals: 80% Semillon, 20% Sauvignon Gris

Average age of vines: 7 years

Density of plantation: 9,100 vines per hectare

Average yields: 40 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentations occur in casks, with indigenous yeasts. Wines are aged for six to nine months. They are not fined.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château de Landiras: 24,000 bottles

La Colombe de Landiras: 36,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–8 years of the vintage

LESPAULT

Classification: None

Owner: SC du Château Lespault

Address: 33650 Martillac

Mailing address: c/o SCF Domaines Kressmann, Chemin Latour, 33650 Martillac

Telephone: 05 57 97 71 11; Telefax: 05 57 97 71 17

Visits: By appointment only

Contact: Tristan Kressmann

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 12.4 acres

Grape varietals: 75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Malbec

Average age of vines: 40 years

Density of plantation: 7,200 vines per hectare

Average yields: 45 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Twenty-one to twenty-eight day fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Sixteen months aging in barrels with 20% new oak. Fining and filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château Lespault: 30,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–6 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 2.5 acres

Grape varietals: 100% Sauvignon

Average age of vines: 35 years

Density of plantation: 7,200 vines per hectare

Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Slow pressing. Fermentation and eight months aging on lees in oak barrels with 25% new oak. Fining and filtration.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château Lespault: 5,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–4 years of the vintage

MAGENCE

Classification: None

Owner: Guillot de Suduiraut d’Anthras family

Address: 33210 Saint-Pierre de Mons

Telephone: 05 56 63 07 05; Telefax: 05 56 63 41 42

E-mail: magence@magence.com

Website: www.magence.com

Visits: Preferably by appointment Monday to Friday, 9–11 A.M. and 2–5 P.M.

Contact: Comte Jacques d’Anthras

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 64.2 acres

Grape varietals: 44% Merlot, 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Cabernet Franc

Average age of vines: 28 years

Density of plantation: 3,500 and 5,500 vines per hectare

Average yields: 52 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and 20–30 day maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Eighteen months aging in stainless-steel vats (for the generic cuvée) or in barrels that are renewed by half at each vintage for the special cuvée. Fining, filtration if necessary.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château Magence (generic and oak-aged): 115,000 bottles

Château Brannens: 20,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–10 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 27.2 acres

Grape varietals: 50% Sauvignon, 50% Semillon

Average age of vines: 28 years

Density of plantation: 3,500 and 5,500 vines per hectare

Average yields: 45 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and eight months aging in stainless steel vats on fine lees.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château Magence: 25,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–10 years of the vintage

DE MAUVES

Classification: None

Owner: Bernard Bouche

Address: 25, rue François Mauriac, 33720 Podensac

Mailing address: BP 60, 33720 Podensac

Telephone: 05 56 27 17 05; Telefax: 05 56 27 24 19

Visits: Preferably by appointment Monday to Friday, 8 A.M.–noon and 2–7 P.M.

Contact: Bernard, Dominique, or Michel Bouche

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 71.6 acres

Grape varietals: 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot

Average age of vines: 20 years

Density of plantation: 5,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 55 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and 20–25 day maceration in temperature-controlled concrete and stainless-steel vats. Eighteen to twenty-four months aging in vats. Fining and filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château de Mauves: 100,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 4–10 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 2.5 acres

Grape varietals: 100% Semillon

Average age of vines: 20 years

Density of plantation: 5,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 55 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation at low temperature and nine months aging in stainless-steel vats. Fining and filtration.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château de Mauves: 6,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–6 years of the vintage

DU MOURET

Classification: None

Owner: Médeville family

Address: 33410 Roaillan

Mailing address: c/o Jean Médeville et Fils, Château Fayau, 33410 Cadillac

Telephone: 05 57 98 08 08; Telefax: 05 56 62 18 22

E-mail: medeville-jeanetfils@wanadoo.fr

Visits: By appointment only

Contact: Jacques Médeville

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 22.2 acres

Grape varietals: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc

Average age of vines: 35 years

Density of plantation: 3,000–5,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 45 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and 15–20 day maceration in temperature-controlled concrete vats. Twenty-four months aging in vats. Fining, no filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château du Mouret: 60,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 4–12 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 9.9 acres

Grape varietals: 60% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Semillon

Average age of vines: 15 years

Density of plantation: 3,000–5,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 45–50 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Cold stabilization. Eight to ten day fermentation at low temperature. Six months aging on lees in vats. Fining, no filtration.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château du Mouret: 3,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–8 years of the vintage

LE PAPE

Classification: None

Owner: Patrick Monjanel

Address: 34, chemin Le Pape, 33850 Léognan

Telephone: 05 56 64 10 90; Telefax: 05 56 64 17 78

E-mail: pmontjanel@chateaulepape.com

Website: www.chateaulepape.com

Visits: By appointment only

Contact: Patrick Montjanel (Telephone: 06 07 66 01 60)

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 14.8 acres

Grape varietals: 70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet

Average age of vines: 35–40 years

Density of plantation: 5,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Cold maceration, three- to four-week fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled concrete tanks of small capacity. Twelve months aging in barrels with 50% new oak. No fining, no filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château Le Pape: 15,000 bottles

L’Emule du Pape: 15,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–6 years of the vintage

PÉRIN DE NAUDINE

Classification: None

Owner: Olivier Colas

Address: 8, impasse des Domaines, 33640 Castres-Gironde

Telephone: 05 56 67 06 65; Telefax: 05 56 67 59 68

E-mail: chateauperin@wanadoo.fr

Website: www.chateauperin.com

Visits: By appointment only

Contact: Frank Artaud

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 22.2 acres

Grape varietals: 66% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc

Average age of vines: 20 years

Density of plantation: 5,700 vines per hectare

Average yields: 58 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and three week maceration in temperature-controlled vats. Ten percent of yield undergoes malolactics in barrels. Twelve months aging in barrels with 33% new oak. Fining, no filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château Périn de Naudine: 50,000 bottles

Les Sphinx de Naudine: 10,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 4–8 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 7.4 acres

Grape varietals: 80% Semillon, 20% Sauvignon Blanc

Average age of vines: 28 years

Density of plantation: 5,700 vines per hectare

Average yields: 58 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and nine months aging on lees in barrels with 50% new oak. Fining, no filtration.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château Périn de Naudine: 10,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–4 years of the vintage

PESSAN

Classification: None

Owner: Paul-Henry de Bournazel

Address: 33640 Portets

Mailing address: c/o Château de Malle, 33210 Preignac

Telephone: 05 56 62 36 86; Telefax: 05 56 76 82 40

E-mail: chateaudemalle@wanadoo.fr

Website: www.chateau-de-malle.fr

Visits: By appointment only

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 17.3 acres

Grape varietals: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot

Average age of vines: 20 years

Density of plantation: 6,600 vines per hectare

Average yields: 55 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and maceration with frequent pumpings-over in temperature-controlled vats. Twelve months aging in barrels with 50% new oak. Fining and filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château Pessan: 25,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 4–6 years of the vintage

Note: This estate was bought recently by the Château de Malle. 2002 is the first vintage produced under the new ownership. It should be a property to watch as improvements appear to be coming.

PEYREBLANQUE

Classification: None

Owner: Médeville family

Address: 33410 Roaillan

Mailing address: c/o Jean Médeville et Fils, Château Fayau, 33410 Cadillac

Telephone: 05 57 98 08 08; Telefax: 05 56 62 18 22

E-mail: medeville-jeanetfils@wanadoo.fr

Visits: By appointment only

Contact: Jacques Médeville

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 17.3 acres

Grape varietals: 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot

Average age of vines: 12 years

Density of plantation: 5,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and 19–25 day maceration in temperature-controlled concrete vats. Ten to fifteen months aging in barrels. Fining, no filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château Peyreblanque: 40,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–5 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 2.5 acres

Grape varietals: 80% Muscadelle, 20% Sauvignon Blanc

Average age of vines: 12 years

Density of plantation: 5,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 52 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Five day cold stabilization. Fermentation at low temperature and 10 months aging on lees with weekly stirrings. Fining, no filtration.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château Peyreblanque: 6,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–5 years of the vintage

PIRON

Classification: None

Owner: Boyreau family

Administrator: Lionel Boyreau

Address: 33650 Saint-Morillon

Telephone: 05 56 20 25 61; Telefax: 05 56 78 48 36

Visits: By appointment only

Contact: Lionel Boyreau

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 19.8 acres

Grape varietals: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot

Average age of vines: 30 years

Density of plantation: 5,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Twelve to eighteen months aging in barrels. Fining not systematic, filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château Piron: 25,000–30,000 bottles

Château Coureau: 25,000–30,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–6 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 29.6 acres

Grape varietals: 50% Sauvignon Blanc, 50% Semillon

Average age of vines: 30 years

Density of plantation: 5,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and six months aging in vats for part of the yield and in barrels for the rest. No fining, filtration.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château Piron: 25,000–30,000 bottles

Château Coureau: 25,000–30,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–6 years of the vintage

PONTAC MONPLAISIR

Classification: None

Owner: Jean Maufras

Address: 33140 Villenave d’Ornon

Telephone: 05 56 87 08 21; Telefax: 05 56 87 35 10

Visits: By appointment only

Contact: Alain Maufras (Telephone: 06 09 28 80 88)

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 39.5 acres

Grape varietals: 60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon

Average age of vines: 30 years

Density of plantation: 6,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 58 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless-steel and epoxy-lined stainless-steel tanks. Fourteen to sixteen months aging with 30% new oak. No fining, no filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château Pontac Monplaisir: 70,000 bottles

Château Limbourg: 8,000–10,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 4–6 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 39.5 acres

Grape varietals: 55% Sauvignon Blanc, 45% Semillon

Average age of vines: 30 years

Density of plantation: 6,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 58 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and 10 months aging in barrels with 40% new oak. No fining, no filtration.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château Pontac Monplaisir: 25,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–4 years of the vintage

GENERAL APPRECIATION

The vineyard of Pontac Monplaisir sits on very sandy, light gravelly soil near Château Baret. The white wine from this estate is a textbook white Graves with a pronounced intense, herbaceous, mineral character, medium body, and gobs of fruit. Some people find it almost too herbaceously scented. It is not a wine to lay away in the cellar, but rather to be drunk in its first 2–3 years. The red wine is of less interest—soft, straightforward, relatively light, but tasty and correctly made.

POUMEY

Classification: None

Farmed by: Château Pape Clément

Address: rue du Professeur Bernard, 33190 Gradignan

Mailing address: c/o Château Pape Clément, 216, avenue du Dr Nancel Pénard, BP 164, 33600 Pessac Cedex

Telephone: 05 57 26 38 38; Telefax: 05 57 28 38 39

Visits: By appointment only

Contact: Eric Larramona

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 19.8 acres

Grape varietals: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot

Average age of vines: 20 years

Density of plantation: 7,500 vines per hectare

Average yields: 39 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Malolactics and 18–20 months aging in barrels with 75% new oak. No fining, filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château Poumey: 20,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 5–12 years of the vintage

Note: In 2001, a special cuvée of 6,000 bottles was launched, called Sérénité de Poumey, an impressive, very rich wine made under the guidance of renowned oenologist Michel Rolland.

RAHOUL

Classification: None

Owner: Alain Thienot

Address: 4, route de Courneau, 33640 Portets

Telephone: 05 56 67 01 12; Telefax: 05 56 67 02 88

E-mail: château-rahoul@alain-thienot.fr

Visits: By appointment only

Contact: Nathalie Schwartz

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 96.3 acres

Grape varietals: 70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon

Average age of vines: 30 years

Density of plantation: 6,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 48 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and 20 day maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Twelve months aging in barrels that are renewed by a third at each vintage. Fining and filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château Rahoul: 90,000 bottles

La Garance: 70,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 5–14 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 7.4 acres

Grape varietals: 70% Semillon, 30% Sauvignon Blanc

Average age of vines: 35 years

Density of plantation: 6,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 30 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and six months aging on lees in barrels that are renewed by half at each vintage. Fining and filtration.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château Rahoul: 6,000 bottles

La Garance: 6,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 3–6 years of the vintage

GENERAL APPRECIATION

This property near the village of Portets is highly regarded in some circles, but to date I have found the wines almost overwhelmingly oaky, as well as slightly out of balance. The vineyard is still young, and perhaps when mature the concentration of fruit in the wines will be sufficient to stand up to the wood. Certainly those readers who prefer more oaky-styled wines would rate these wines more highly. In 1991 Rahoul was sold to Alain Thienot, a wealthy property owner from Champagne.

DE ROCHEMORIN

Classification: None

Owner: André Lurton

Address: 33850 Martillac

Mailing address: Vignobles André Lurton, Château Bonnet, 33420 Grézillac

Telephone: 05 57 25 58 58; Telefax: 05 57 74 98 59

E-mail: andrelurton@andrelurton.com

Website: www.andrelurton.com

Visits: By appointment Monday to Friday, 9 A.M.–5 P.M.

Contact: Véronique Bouffard

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 214.9 acres

Grape varietals: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot

Average age of vines: 15–18 years

Density of plantation: 6,500–8,500 vines per hectare

Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Three week fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Twelve months aging in barrels with 25–30% new oak and racking every three months. Fining and filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château de Rochemorin: 180,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 3–8 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 29.6 acres

Grape varietals: 90% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Semillon

Average age of vines: 15–18 years

Density of plantation: 6,500–8,500 vines per hectare

Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: After cold settling, 10–15 day fermentation (at 18–23°C) in barrels with 30–50% new oak. Nine months aging on lees with regular stirrings. Fining and filtration.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château de Rochemorin: 45,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–5 years of the vintage

This is an up-and-coming estate in the commune of Martillac, one whose name is believed to have been taken from the Moorish expression for a fortified château. Many Graves observers feel the vineyard is one of the best placed of the appellation, sitting on high ground with superb drainage. The vineyard, however, remains relatively young, as André Lurton, the dynamic empire builder in the Léognan area of Graves and Entre-Deux-Mers, only acquired the property in 1973. Lurton has replanted the vineyard, which had become covered with large trees.

DE ROUILLAC

Classification: None

Owner: Marie-Claude and Jean-Paul Lafragette

Address: 33610 Canéjan

Mailing address: c/o Château Loudenne, 33340 Saint-Yzans-de-Médoc

Telephone: 05 56 89 41 68; Telefax: 05 56 89 41 68

E-mail: chateau-loudenne@wanadoo.fr

Visits: By appointment only

Contact: Florence Lafragette (Telephone: 05 56 73 17 80; Telefax: 05 56 09 02 87)

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 42 acres

Grape varietals: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot

Average age of vines: 30 years

Density of plantation: 6,500 and 10,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 55 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and 20–25 day maceration in temperature-controlled wooden vats with pigeages and pumpings-over. Malolactics and 14–16 months aging in barrels with 70% new oak and 30% one-year-old barrels. Fining and filtration not systematic.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château Rouillac: 40,000 bottles

Moulin de Rouillac: variable

Plateau of maturity: Within 3–10 years of the vintage

SAINT-JEAN-DES-GRAVES

Classification: None

Owner: Jean-Gérard David

Address: 33210 Pujols-sur-Ciron

Mailing address: c/o Château Liot, 33720 Barsac

Telephone: 05 56 27 15 31; Telefax: 05 56 27 14 42

E-mail: chateau.liot@wanadoo.fr

Website: www.chateauliot.com

Visits: By appointment Monday to Friday, 9 A.M.–noon and 2–5 P.M.

Contact: Jean-Gérard David

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 29.6 acres

Grape varietals: 70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc

Average age of vines: 20 years

Density of plantation: 5,500 vines per hectare

Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and 20–25 day maceration in vats. Eighteen months aging by rotation every six months in vats and in barrels. Fining and filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château Saint-Jean-des-Graves: 55,000 bottles

Château Pinsas: 35,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–7 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 19.8 acres

Grape varietals: 70% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Semillon

Average age of vines: 15 years

Density of plantation: 5,500 vines per hectare

Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Skin maceration. Ten day fermentation and nine months aging on lees in vats. No fining, filtration.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château Saint-Jean-des-Graves: 45,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–6 years of the vintage

SAINT ROBERT

Classification: None

Owner: Foncier Vignobles

Address: 33210 Pujols-sur-Cirons

Telephone: 05 56 63 27 66; Telefax: 05 56 76 87 03

E-mail: bastor-lamontagne@dial.oleane.com

Visits: By appointment Monday to Friday, 8:30 A.M.–12:30 P.M. and 2–6 P.M.

Contact: Michel Garat

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 69.2 acres

Grape varietals: 55% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc

Average age of vines: 22 years

Density of plantation: 7,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 45 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and three week maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Thirteen to fifteen months aging in 100% new oak for the cuvée Poncet-Deville and with 20% new oak for the generic wine. Fining and filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château Saint Robert: 120,000 bottles

Cuvée Poncet-Deville: 120,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 4–8 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 14.8 acres

Grape varietals: 60% Sauvignon, 40% Semillon

Average age of vines: 12 years

Density of plantation: 7,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 40 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and eight months aging in barrels with 33% new oak. Fining and filtration.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château Saint Robert: 32,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–4 years of the vintage

LE SARTRE

Classification: None

Owner: GFA du Château Le Sartre et Bois Martin—Perrin family

Address: 33850 Léognan

Telephone: 05 57 96 56 20; Telefax: 05 56 96 59 19

E-mail: chateau.carbonnieux@wanadoo.fr

Website: www.carbonnieux.com

Visits: By appointment Monday to Friday, 8:30–11 A.M. and 2–5 P.M.

Contact: Eric Perrin

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 44.5 acres

Grape varietals: 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot

Average age of vines: 20 years

Density of plantation: 7,200 vines per hectare

Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Twenty-one day fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks. Fifteen to eighteen months aging in barrels with 20–25% new oak. Fining and filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château Le Sartre: 120,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–8 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 17.3 acres

Grape varietals: 70% Sauvignon, 30% Semillon

Average age of vines: 20 years

Density of plantation: 7,200 vines per hectare

Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: After cold settling, fermentation and 10 months aging in barrels with 20% new oak. Fining and filtration.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château Le Sartre: 35,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–5 years of the vintage

LA SÉRÉNITÉ DE POUMEY

Classification: None

Farmed by: Château Pape Clément (since 1995)

Address: rue du Professeur Bernard, 33190 Gradignan

Mailing address: c/o Château Pape Clément, 216, avenue du Dr Nancel Pénard, BP 164, 33600

Pessac Cedex

Telephone: 05 57 26 38 38; Telefax: 05 57 28 38 39

Visits: By appointment only

Contact: Eric Larramona

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 4.9 acres

Grape varietals: 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot

Average age of vines: 20 years

Density of plantation: 7,500 vines per hectare

Average yields: 39 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Manual destemming. Fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats with pigeages (four times daily until a density of 1,000 is attained, and then twice daily until the fermentation process ends). Malolactics and 18–20 months aging in barrels with 75% new oak. No fining, filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Sérénité de Poumey: 6,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 4–15 years of the vintage

GENERAL APPRECIATION

The luxury cuvée from Château Poumey, this 6,000-bottle offering is made by the renowned consultant Michel Rolland for proprietor Bernard Magrez. The debut vintage was 2001.

IMPORTANT VINTAGES

2001 90–92

A vin de garage, the 2001 La Sérénité de Poumey boasts super extract, ripeness, and intensity as well as a multidimensional texture. Cropped at a mere 24 hectoliters per hectare, and picked very ripe, this well-balanced effort will be at its finest between 2005 and 2015. A revelation. Last tasted, 1/03.

DOMAINE DE LA SOLITUDE

Classification: None

Owner: Communauté Religieuse de la Sainte-Famille (Convent)

Address: 33650 Martillac

Mailing address: Domaine de Chevalier, 33650 Martillac

Telephone: 05 56 72 74 74; Telefax: 05 56 72 52 00

Visits: By appointment only

Contact: Evelyne Brel

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 49.4 acres

Grape varietals: 40% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Malbec

Average age of vines: 30 years

Density of plantation: 5,500 vines per hectare

Average yields: 43 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentations last three weeks in temperature-controlled vats—maximum temperature 30°C. Wines are aged in oak casks (one, two, and three years old) for 15 months and are fined and filtered.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Domaine de la Solitude: 60,000 bottles

No second wine produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–5 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 12.4 acres

Grape varietals: 50% Sauvignon, 50% Semillon

Average age of vines: 30 years

Density of plantation: 5,500 vines per hectare

Average yields: 35 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentations occur in oak barrels, 15% of which are new (the rest are between one and five years old). Wines are kept on lees for 14 months and are bottled after fining and filtration.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Domaine de la Solitude: 18,000 bottles

No second wine produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 1–4 years of the vintage

LE THIL COMTE CLARY

Classification: None

Owner: GFA Le Thil—Jean de Laitre

Address: 33850 Léognan

Telephone: 05 56 30 01 02; Telefax: 05 56 30 04 32

E-mail: jean-de-laitre@chateau-le-thil.com

Website: www.chateau-le-thil.com

Visits: By appointment only

Contact: Jean de Laitre

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 21 acres

Grape varietals: 70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon

Average age of vines: 10 years

Density of plantation: 6,700 vines per hectare

Average yields: 55 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation (27–31°C) and four week maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats with pumpings-over. Malolactics at 20°C. Twelve months aging in barrels with 20% new oak. No fining, no filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château Le Thil Comte Clary: 40,000 bottles

Refets du Château Le Thil Comte Clary: 20,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 4–8 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 7.6 acres

Grape varietals: 50% Sauvignon, 50% Semillon

Average age of vines: 10 years

Density of plantation: 6,700 vines per hectare

Average yields: 55 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Two day cold settling at 10°C. Fermentation and nine months aging on lees in new oak barrels, with regular stirring. Fining, light filtration.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château Le Thil Comte Clary: 20,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–6 years of the vintage

LA TOUR DE BOYRIN

Classification: None

Owner: Jacques Goua

Address: 41, cour du Maréchal-de-Lattre-de-Tassigny, 33210 Langon

Telephone and telefax: 05 56 63 18 62

Visits: By appointment only

Contact: Jacques Goua

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 29.6 acres

Grape varietals: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc

Average age of vines: 50 years

Density of plantation: 5,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 57 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation, 21 day maceration and aging in vats. Fining and filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château Tour de Boyrin: 37,500 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–8 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 19.8 acres

Grape varietals: 70% Semillon, 20% Sauvignon, 10% Muscadelle

Average age of vines: 50 years

Density of plantation: 5,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 57 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: All of the wine is sold to the trade. No bottling is done at the château.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Sold in bulk to négociants.

DU TOURTE

Classification: None

Owner: Hubert Arnaud

Address: route de la Tourte, 33210 Toulenne

Mailing address: c/o Databail, 146, boulevard Voltaire, 92600 Asnières

Telephone: 01 46 88 40 08 or 06 60 68 40 08; Telefax: 01 46 88 01 45

E-mail: hubert.arnaud@cra.fr

Visits: Monday to Friday, 9 A.M. to 6 P.M.

Contact: Hubert Arnaud

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 14.8 acres

Grape varietals: 66% Merlot, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon

Average age of vines: 35 years

Density of plantation: 5,500 vines per hectare

Average yields: 40 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and three week maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Sixteen months aging in barrels that are renewed by half at each vintage. Fining and filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château du Tourte: 25,000 bottles

Château Tourte des Graves: 5,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–6 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 9.9 acres

Grape varietals: 80% Semillon, 20% Sauvignon Blanc

Average age of vines: 35 years

Density of plantation: 5,500 vines per hectare

Average yields: 40 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and nine months aging on lees with weekly stirrings in barrels with 30% new oak. Fining and filtration.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château du Tourte: 20,000 bottles

No second wine is produced.

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–6 years of the vintage

LE TUQUET

Classification: None

Owner: GFA Château Le Tuquet

Address: 33640 Beautiran

Telephone: 05 56 20 21 23; Telefax: 05 56 20 21 83

Visits: By appointment only

Contact: Paul Ragon

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 98.8 acres

Grape varietals: 50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc

Average age of vines: 25 years

Density of plantation: 5,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 52 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and 21–25 day maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks. Twelve months aging in one-and two-year-old barrels. Fining and filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château Le Tuquet: 90,000 bottles

Château de Bellefont/Château Couloumey-Le Tuquet: 120,000

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–5 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 37 acres

Grape varietals: 80% Semillon, 20% Sauvignon Blanc

Average age of vines: 25 years

Density of plantation: 6,000 vines per hectare

Average yields: 52 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation at low temperature and aging in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks. Fining and filtration.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château Le Tuquet: 60,000 bottles

Château de Bellefont/Château Couloumey-Le Tuquet: 40,000

Plateau of maturity: Within 1–5 years of the vintage

LA VIEILLE FRANCE

Classification: None

Owner: Michel Dugoua and sons

Address: 1, chemin du Malbec, 33640 Portets

Mailing address: BP 8, 33640 Portets

Telephone: 05 56 67 19 11; Telefax: 05 56 67 17 54

E-mail: courrier@chateau-la-vieille-france.fr

Website: www.château-la-vieille.fr

Visits: Monday to Friday, 9 A.M. to 7 P.M. By appointment on weekends.

Contact: François Dugoua

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 59.3 acres

Grape varietals: 70% Merlot Noir, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot

Average age of vines: 35 years

Density of plantation: 5,500 vines per hectare

Average yields: 55 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fermentation and 24 day maceration (32°C) in temperature-controlled concrete vats. Twelve to fourteen months aging in barrels that are renewed by a third at each vintage. Racking every six months. Fining and filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Château La Vieille France: 30,000 bottles

Château Cadet La Vieille France: 65,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–8 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 59.3 acres

Grape varietals: 75% Semillon, 20% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Muscadelle

Average age of vines: 35 years

Density of plantation: 5,500 vines per hectare

Average yields: 55 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Skin maceration. Cold settling. Fermentation and 8–10 months aging in barrels with 60% new oak and regular stirrings. Fining and filtration.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Château La Vieille France: 10,000 bottles

Château Cadet La Vieille France: 20,000

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–6 years of the vintage

VILLA BEL-AIR

Classification: None

Owner: Cazes family

Address: 33650 Saint-Morillon

Telephone: 05 56 20 29 35; Telefax: 05 56 78 44 80

E-mail: infochato@villabelair.com

Website: www.villabelair.com

Visits: By appointment only

Contact: Guy Delestrac

VINEYARDS (RED)

Surface area: 79 acres

Grape varietals: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc

Average age of vines: 13 years

Density of plantation: 5,500 vines per hectare

Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Fifteen to twenty-one day fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Twelve months aging in barrels with no new oak. Fining and filtration.

RED WINES PRODUCED

Villa Bel-Air: 180,000 bottles

Tonnelle de Bel-Air: 20,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 2–6 years of the vintage

VINEYARDS (WHITE)

Surface area: 29.6 acres

Grape varietals: 42% Sauvignon Blanc, 42% Semillon, 16% Muscadelle

Average age of vines: 13 years

Density of plantation: 5,500 vines per hectare

Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare

Elevage: Cold settling. Fermentation and nine months aging on lees with regular stirrings in barrels with 15% new oak. Fining, filtration.

WHITE WINES PRODUCED

Villa Bel-Air: 60,000 bottles

Tonnelle de Bel-Air: 20,000 bottles

Plateau of maturity: Within 1–5 years of the vintage

GENERAL APPRECIATION

This estate is owned by Jean-Michel Cazes (the renowned proprietor of the Pauillac estate of Lynch Bages), and significant efforts have been made to improve the property and fashion high-quality wines. Recent vintages of both the reds and whites have demonstrated dramatic improvement. High quality combined with the fact that the world has not yet discovered Villa Bel-Air have kept prices low . . . at least as of 2003.

IMPORTANT VINTAGES (RED)

2001 88–91	A potential sleeper of the vintage, this deep ruby/purple–colored 2001 exhibits aromas of tobacco leaf, black currants, licorice, smoke, and earth offered in a sweet, expansive, elegant but fleshy style. It appears to be even better than the 2000. Anticipated maturity: 2004–2010. Last tasted, 1/03.
2000 88	A savory, complex perfume of tobacco, earth, smoke, dried herbs, and red as well as black currants jumps from the glass of this medium-bodied, elegant, soft, velvety-textured effort. Anticipated maturity: now–2010. Last tasted, 1/03.
1999 86	This light-bodied, attractive, tobacco, berry, and cherry-scented, well-made, elegant 1999 is best drunk over the next 3 years. Like most vintages, it is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Franc. Last tasted, 3/02.

IMPORTANT VINTAGES (WHITE)

2001 90	A rich nose of orange skin intermixed with lemon zest, grapefruit, and honey is followed by a complex, medium-bodied wine revealing loads of fruit, subtle notes of wood, and a striking minerality. This beauty is a sleeper of the vintage. Drink it over the next 5–7 years. Last tasted, 1/03.
2000 87	Straightforward aromas of candle wax intermixed with figs, melons, and citrus are followed by a medium-bodied, monolithic, attractively fruity red to drink over the next 4–5 years. Last tasted, 1/03.

POMEROL

The smallest of the great red wine districts of Bordeaux, Pomerol produces some of the most expensive, exhilarating, and glamorous wines in the world. Yet Pomerol, whose wines are in such demand that they must be severely allocated, remains the only major appellation of Bordeaux never to have had its wines formally placed in a rigid hierarchy of quality. When members of the Bordeaux wine trade established the now famous and historic 1855 Classification of the Wines of Gironde, they completely ignored Pomerol and St.-Emilion, both some 18 miles east of Bordeaux on the right bank of the Gironde River. These areas had developed reputations for high-quality wine, but because travel across the Gironde to Libourne was difficult (bridges were not built until after 1820), St.-Emilion and Pomerol developed most of their trade with northern France, Belgium, and Holland. In contrast, the larger wine-producing estates in the Médoc worked through brokers in Bordeaux. In many cases, these firms, called négociants, were run by transplanted English, as well as Irish families that relied on existing contacts with the British wine trade. The 1855 classification was, in essence, a short list of well-known Médoc estates, plus the famous Haut-Brion in Graves. Why? Because these châteaux traditionally sold most of their production to Bordeaux brokers who then exported the wine to England. Since the brokers, who did little or no business with the châteaux of Pomerol and St.-Emilion until the late 1860s, were responsible for the 1855 classification, they were ignorant—or worse, self-serving—when they classified the top five dozen or so châteaux of the Bordeaux region.

Since 1855 the wines of St.-Emilion have been classified four times—first in 1954, with revisions in 1969, 1985, and 1997. The wines of Pomerol, however, have never been classified. This is surprising because they began to gain great popularity and notoriety in the late 1940s, after being highly touted by the well-known English wine buyer, the late Harry Waugh, who was then working for the respected house of Harvey’s in Bristol. Their reputation has continued to soar to the point that many Pomerol wines are now in greater demand than some of the most celebrated Médocs and Graves.

While St.-Emilion covers an enormous area (with 13,434 acres under vine), Pomerol, its northern neighbor, is tiny, with only 1,939 acres of vineyards—less than the total acreage for the Médoc’s smallest appellation, St.-Julien.

To understand the success of the wines of Pomerol, one must take into consideration the Merlot grape (the dominant varietal of the appellation), the changing drinking habits of consumers, and the influence of an empire built by Jean-Pierre Moueix and his two sons, Christian and Jean-François. First, there is the Merlot grape, which, according to the INAO (Institute National des Appellations d’Origine), accounts for 70–75% of the grapes planted in Pomerol. Cabernet Franc follows with 20–25% and the Cabernet Sauvignon with 5%. No other major appellation of Bordeaux has as much Merlot planted. Merlot-based wines are generally softer, more opulently and obviously fruity and lush, lower in apparent tannin, and higher in alcohol than wines based primarily on Cabernet Sauvignon.

Second, many modern-day consumers (and restaurants) seek wines that can be drunk at a younger age, so the wines of Pomerol have a ready-and-waiting audience. Most Pomerols tend to be ready to drink within 4–6 years of the vintage. Yet despite the early maturation of these Pomerols, the top wines retain their fruit and evolve extremely well, frequently lasting 15–25 years, with the legendary vintages sometimes lasting and improving for 40 or more years.

Third, no other wine region in France owes its success to a single individual more than Pomerol does to the late Jean-Pierre Moueix. This great man of taste and erudition passed away in 2003. In 1930, when he was in his early 20s, Jean-Pierre Moueix arrived in Libourne from France’s Corrèze region, a desolate section of the Massif Central. He was regarded as an outcast by the aristocratic blue bloods who traded in Médoc wines on the famous riverfront street called the Quai des Chartrons. Moueix turned east to the viticultural areas the Bordeaux brokers considered an afterthought—Pomerol and St.-Emilion. His timing and luck were bad, however, for in the early 1930s the world was in the midst of a depression, not to fully emerge until after World War II. Yet, prior to the war, the young Moueix was smart enough to realize that the historic market for top Bordeaux—England—was off-limits to him. That trade was dominated by the brokers of the Quai des Chartrons, but no one there paid much attention to the wines of Pomerol. Moueix began by setting up a small merchant business and traveling regularly to northern Europe—Brittany, Belgium, and Holland—where he found enthusiastic buyers for his Pomerols. By 1937 he had established a négociant business in Libourne, the commercial town that today serves as Pomerol’s port of entry. In the post–World War II years he purchased three properties in Pomerol—Trotanoy, Lagrange, and La Fleur Pétrus—and arranged to be the exclusive selling agent for any estate’s wine where he was unable to buy the property.