The grapes of choice are Merlot (representing about 70% of the plantings), Cabernet Franc (15%), and Cabernet Sauvignon (15%). While Malbec still exists in a number of vineyards, its use has largely ceased. Largely ignored until the mid-1980s, the producers of Fronsac and Canon-Fronsac have begun to benefit from increasing interest in their wines. Once viewed as less expensive alternatives to Pomerol and the glamour wines of St.-Emilion, the best Fronsacs and Canon-Fronsacs are carving out their own identities and offering wines (particularly in top years such as 2000) that are rich, full, darkly colored, relatively large-scaled efforts with considerable aging potential. While less of a concern, the toughness and hardness, so much a problem with older-styled Fronsacs and Canon-Fronsacs, remains a perennial problem for many estates. Additionally, the fertile soils of many Fronsac vineyards, which can result in overproduction, are more carefully and conservatively managed. Oddly enough, far greater attention is paid to yields in these appellations than in many of the more famous Bordeaux winemaking regions.
I have been routinely tasting these wines at least twice a year, and I have visited most of the major estates in the region. There has been increasing quality in almost every vintage. The years 1989 and 1990 were the two best back-to-back vintages these appellations enjoyed until 2000. The classification that follows is based on the performance of these estates during the 1989–2001 period. All of the estates rated very good or excellent produced wines in top vintages that have the capacity to last for 10–12 years. I suspect many will last even longer. I remember a dinner at Château Dalem, where the proprietor of another Fronsac, Jean-Noel Hervé, brought a bottle of 1928 Moulin-Haut-Laroque. It was quite stunning at age 60. I am not suggesting these wines will routinely have that kind of aging potential, but they are wines with a great deal of firmness and richness that tend to possess a Médoc-like austerity and structure to them. Even though the vineyards are in close proximity to Pomerol, the wines seem, for the most part, very un-Pomerol-like.
FRONSAC—AN OVERVIEW
Location: On the right bank of Bordeaux’s Dordogne River, 15 miles from Bordeaux’s city center
Acres under vine: 2,062 (nearly three times the size of Canon-Fronsac)
Communes: Fronsac, La Rivière, Sailans, St.-Aignan, St.-Germain-La-Rivière
Average annual production: 550,000 cases
Classified growths: No classification exists for the châteaux of Fronsac
Principal grape varieties: Merlot dominates, followed by Cabernet Franc. Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec have increasingly fallen out of favor.
Principal soil type: Clay and limestone, with some sandstone. Most of the Fronsac vineyards are on the lower ground
A CONSUMER’S CLASSIFICATION OF THE CHÂTEAUX OF FRONSAC
EXCELLENT
Aria de la Rivière, La Dauphine (since 2001), Fontenil, Haut-de-Carles, Moulin-Haut-Laroque, La Vieille-Cure, Villars
VERY GOOD
Dalem, La Rivière, Les Trois Croix
GOOD
Cardeneau, Clos du Roy, La Grave, Jeandeman, Meyney, Rouet
CANON-FRONSAC—AN OVERVIEW
Location: On the right bank of Bordeaux’s Dordogne River, 15 miles from Bordeaux’s city center
Acres under vine: 741
Communes: All of the châteaux are located within the communes of St.-Michel-de-Fronsac and Fronsac
Average annual production: 195,000 cases
Classified growths: None
Principal grape varieties: Merlot, followed by Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and small quantities of Malbec
Principal soil type: Clay and limestone; most of the châteaux are on the upper slopes of this area’s hills
A CONSUMER’S CLASSIFICATION OF THE CHÂTEAUX OF CANON-FRONSAC
VERY GOOD
Barrabaque, Canon, Canon-de-Brem, Cassagne-Haut-Canon-La-Truffière, La Croix-Canon, La Fleur-Cailleau, Grand-Renouil, Mazeris, Moulin-Pey-Labrie, Pavillon, Pez-Labrie
GOOD
Bodet, Mazeris-Bellevue, du Pavillon, Vrai-Canon-Bouché, Vray-Canon-Boyer
PROFILES—THE TOP CHÂTEAUX
Canon (Canon-Fronsac)
Proprietor: Mademoiselle Henriette Horeau
Vineyard size: 25 acres
Production: 4,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 5–15 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—95%
Cabernet Franc—5%
Proprietor: Syndicate (Jean Halley)
Vineyard size: 50 acres
Production: 8,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 5–15 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—66%
Cabernet Franc—34%
Cassagne-Haut-Canon-La-Truffière (Canon-Fronsac)
Proprietor: Dubois family
Vineyard size: 29.6 acres
Production: 4,500 cases, of which 2,000 cases of the luxury cuvée La Truffière is produced
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–10 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—70%
Cabernet Franc—20%
Cabernet Sauvignon—10%
Dalem (Fronsac)
Proprietor: Michel Rullier
Vineyard size: 29.6 acres
Production: 6,500 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 4–12 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—70%
Cabernet Franc—20%
Cabernet Sauvignon—10%
La Croix-Canon (Canon-Fronsac)
Proprietor: Syndicate
Vineyard size: 35 acres
Production: 4,800 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 4–15 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—75%
Cabernet Sauvignon—25%
La Dauphine (Fronsac)
Proprietor: Syndicate (Jean Halley)
Vineyard size: 25 acres
Production: 4,500 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 4–10 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—60%
Cabernet Franc—40%
Fontenil (Fronsac)
Proprietor: Michel Rolland
Vineyard size: 17.3 acres
Production: 3,500 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 4–14 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—85%
Cabernet Sauvignon—15%
Proprietor: Christian de Cournuaud
Vineyard size: 35 acres
Production: 4,500 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 5–15 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—75%
Malbec—25%
Moulin-Haut-Laroque (Fronsac)
Proprietor: Jean-Noël Hervé
Vineyard size: 34.6 acres
Production: 6,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 5–20 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—65%
Cabernet Franc—20%
Cabernet Sauvignon—10%
Malbec—5%
Moulin-Pey-Labrie (Canon-Fronsac)
Proprietor: B. & G. Hubau
Vineyard size: 20 acres
Production: 4,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 5–15 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—75%
Cabernet Sauvignon—15%
Cabernet Franc—5%
Malbec—5%
Pez-Labrie (Canon-Fronsac)
Proprietor: Société Civile—Eric Vareille
Vineyard size: 14 acres
Production: 2,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 4–12 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—70%
Cabernet Sauvignon—20%
Cabernet Franc—10%
La Vieille-Cure (Fronsac)
Proprietor: S.N.C., an American syndicate; contact—Colin C. Ferenbach
Vineyard size: 47 acres
Production: 8,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 4–12 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—80%
Cabernet Franc—15%
Cabernet Sauvignon—5%
LALANDE-DE-POMEROL
Lalande-de-Pomerol is a satellite commune of 2,717 acres of vineyards located just to the north of Pomerol. It includes the two communes of Lalande-de-Pomerol and Néac. The vineyards, which produce only red wine, are planted on relatively light, gravelly, sandy soils in the northeastern sector with the meandering river, Barbanne, as the appellation’s northern boundary. To the east and south, the soils become heavier with more clay and gravel. The very top level of good Lalande-de-Pomerol is easily the equivalent of a mid-level Pomerol, with certain wines, such as Belles-Graves, Grand-Ormeau, Bertineau-St.-Vincent, Chambrun, Les Cruzelles, and La Fleur de Boüard, very good—even by Pomerol’s standards.
Prices for these wines have risen, but the top efforts still represent reasonably good values for wines that are essentially dominated by their Merlot content.
LALANDE-DE-POMEROL—AN OVERVIEW
Location: 25 miles east of Bordeaux, adjacent to and north of Pomerol, 3 miles northeast of Libourne
Acres under vine: 1,384 acres
Communes: Lalande-de-Pomerol and Néac
Average annual production: 450,000–500,000 cases
Classified growths: none
Principal grape varieties: Merlot represents 80–90% of total plantings followed by Cabernet Franc
Principal soil type: diverse but largely fertile sand and gravel beds with adequate drainage
A CONSUMER’S CLASSIFICATION OF THE CHÂTEAUX OF LALANDE-DE-POMEROL
OUTSTANDING
Chambrun, Les Cruzelles, La Fleur de Boüard, La Plus de la Fleur de Boüard
EXCELLENT
Belles-Graves, Grand-Ormeau, Jean de Gué—Cuvée Prestige, La Sergue
VERY GOOD
Bel-Air, Bertineau-St.-Vincent, du Chapelain, La Croix-St.-André, La Fleur-Saint-Georges, Haut-Chaigneau, Haut-Serget, Siaurac, Tournefeuille
GOOD
Des Annereaux, Clos des Templiers, Garraud, Haut-Chatain, Haut-Surget, Les Hauts-Conseillants, Laborde, Moncets
PROFILES—THE TOP CHÂTEAUX
Bel-Air
Proprietor: The Musset family
Vineyard size: 30 acres
Production: 5,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–12 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—60%
Cabernet Franc—15%
Pressac—15%
Cabernet Sauvignon—10%
Proprietor: Madame Theallet
Vineyard size: 28.4 acres
Production: 5,500 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–10 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—60%
Cabernet Franc—40%
Bertineau-St.-Vincent
Proprietor: Michel Rolland
Vineyard size: 10 acres
Production: 2,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–10 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—80%
Cabernet Franc—20%
Chambrun
Proprietor: Jean-Philippe Janoueix
Vineyard size: 3.7 acres
Production: 800 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–10 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—90%
Cabernet Franc—10%
Du Chapelain
Proprietor: Madame Xann Marc
Vineyard size: 2.5 acres
Production: 350 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 5–10 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—90%
Cabernet Franc—10%
La Croix-St.-André
Proprietor: Francis Carayon
Vineyard size: 37 acres
Production: 6,500 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 4–12 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—70%
Cabernet Franc—30%
Les Cruzelles
Proprietor: Denis Durantou
Vineyard size: 25 acres
Production: 2,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–10 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—60%
Cabernet Franc—40%
La Fleur-Saint-Georges
Proprietor: AGF
Vineyard size: 42 acres
Production: 10,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–8 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—70%
Cabernet Franc—30%
Proprietor: Hubert de Boüard
La Fleur de Boüard—37.5 acres
La Plus de la Fleur de Boüard—4.75 acres
Production:
La Fleur de Boüard—5,000 cases
La Plus de la Fleur de Boüard—500 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–15 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
La Fleur de Boüard: Merlot—85%
Cabernet Sauvignon—7%
Cabernet Franc—8%
La Plus de la Fleur de Boüard: Merlot—100%
Grand-Ormeau
Proprietor: Jean-Claude Beton
Vineyard size: 28.4 acres
Production: 4,800 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 4–10 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—65%
Cabernet Franc—25%
Cabernet Sauvignon—10%
Jean de Gué—Cuvée Prestige
Proprietor: Aubert family
Vineyard size: 24.5 acres
Production: 3,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–10 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—75%
Cabernet Franc—20%
Cabernet Sauvignon—5%
Siaurac
Proprietor: Baronne Guichard
Vineyard size: 62 acres
Production: 7,500 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–10 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—75%
Cabernet Franc—25%
Tournefeuille
Proprietor: G.F.A. Sautarel
Vineyard size: 45 acres
Production: 6,500 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 5–12 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—70%
Cabernet Franc—15%
Cabernet Sauvignon—15%
CÔTES DE BOURG
The Côtes de Bourg, a surprisingly vast appellation of more than 9,600 acres (in vine), is located on the right bank of the Gironde River, just a five-minute boat ride from the more famous appellation of Margaux. The vineyards here are actually older than those in the Médoc, as this attractively hilly area was once the center of the strategic forts built during the Plantagenet period of France’s history. The views from the hillside vineyards adjacent to the river are magnificent. The local chamber of commerce, in an attempt to draw the public’s attention to this area, has engaged in some incredible hyperbole, calling Bourg “the Switzerland of the Gironde.” Forget the spin, they should instead stress the appeal of the best wines from the Côtes de Bourg (which are made in an uncomplicated, but fruity, round, appealing style) and the lovely port village of the area, the ancient hillside town of Bourg-Sur-Gironde.
The Bourg appellation, located north of Fronsac and south of the Côtes de Blaye, has variable soils. They are primarily limestone based, with different proportions of clay, gravel, and sand. The soils exhibit a far greater degree of fertility than in the Médoc, and consequently, the problem facing many producers is to keep their yields reasonable in order to obtain a degree of concentration in their wines. The dominant grape is Merlot, followed by Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, and to a very small extent, Petit Verdot.
Most of the wines of the Côtes de Bourg are average to below average in quality, lack concentration (because of excessive yields), and often have tannins that are too green and high (because of the tendency to harvest too early). However, there are at least a dozen or so estates that consistently make good wines, and several whose wines can easily age for 10 or more years. This could be an increasingly important appellation in the future because the increased demand for wines from the prestigious appellations of Bordeaux has caused prices to soar. Most Côtes de Bourg wines are reasonably priced.
CÔTES DE BOURG—AN OVERVIEW
Location: 18 miles north of Bordeaux, on the right bank of the Dordogne River
Acres under vine: 9,600
Communes: Bayon, Bourg, Comps, Gauriac, Lansac, Mombrier, Prignac-et-Marcamps, St.-Ciers-de-Canesse, St.-Seurin-de-Bourg, St.-Trojan, Samonac, Tauriac, Teuillac, Villeneuve
Average annual production: 350,000 cases (of which approximately 1% is white wine)
Classified growths: There is no classification, but there are more than 300 estates and 4 cooperatives in the region
Principal grape varieties: Red wine—Merlot, followed by Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, with some Malbec; white wine—Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Muscadelle
Principal soil type: Everything from clay, limestone, sandstone, and pure gravel can be found in the Côtes de Bourg
A CONSUMER’S CLASSIFICATION OF THE CHÂTEAUX OF THE CÔTES DE BOURG
OUTSTANDING
Fougas-Maldorer, Martinat-Epicurea, Roc des Cambes
EXCELLENT
Tayac—Cuvée Prestige
De Barbe, Brûlesécaille, Falfas, Guerry, Haut-Maco, Mercier, Tayac—Cuvée Réservé
GOOD
Clos La Barette, La Grolet, Gros Moulin, Les Heaumes, Moulin des Graves, Moulin Vieux, Nodoz, Rousselle, Rousset, Soulignac de Robert, Tayac, La Tour-Séguy
PROFILES—THE TOP CHÂTEAUX
De Barbe
Proprietor: Savary de Beauregard
Vineyard size: 138 acres
Production: 35,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–8 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—70%
Cabernet Sauvignon—25%
Malbec—5%
Brûlesécaille
Proprietor: Jacques Rodet
Vineyard size: 50 acres
Production: 6,500 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–8 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Cabernet Franc—50%
Merlot—50%
Fougas-Maldorer
Proprietor: Jean-Yves Béchet
Vineyard size: 30 acres
Production: 3,500 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–10 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—75%
Cabernet Sauvignon—25%
Guerry
Proprietor: Bertrand de Rivoyre
Vineyard size: 54 acres
Production: 8,500 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 4–12 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Malbec—34%
Cabernet Sauvignon—33%
Merlot—33%
Haut-Maco
Proprietor: Mallet brothers
Vineyard size: 86 acres
Production: 12,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–7 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Cabernet Franc—70%
Merlot—30%
Proprietor: S.C.E.V.
Vineyard size: 7.5 acres
Production: 500 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–10 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—90%
Malbec—10%
Mercier
Proprietor: Philippe Chéty
Vineyard size: 74 acres
Production: 6,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–10 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—55%
Cabernet Sauvignon—25%
Cabernet Franc—15%
Malbec—5%
Roc des Cambes
Proprietor: François Mitjavile
Vineyard size: 23 acres
Production: 3,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–10 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Cabernet Sauvignon—75%
Merlot—20%
Cabernet Franc—5%
Tayac—Cuvée Prestige
Proprietor: Pierre Saturny
Vineyard size: 50 acres
Production: 1,000–2,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 5–15 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Cabernet Sauvignon—80%
Merlot—20%
Note: This luxury cuvée, from very old vines, is only made in great years.
CÔTES DE BLAYE
There are a little more than 19,100 acres of vines in the Blaye region, located directly north of Bourg. The best vineyard areas are entitled to the appellation Premières Côtes de Blaye. While there are quantities of white wine produced in the Blaye region, most of the Premières Côtes de Blaye are dedicated to the production of red wine, which is very similar to the red wine of Bourg. At its best, it is forward, round, richly fruity, soft, and immensely satisfying in a low-key manner.
Blaye, like Bourg, is a much older wine-producing region than the more renowned Médoc. Its origins date back to Roman times when the area served as a defensive front line against invaders intent on attacking the city of Bordeaux. Today, the tourist route from Bourg to Blaye is one of the more charming in the Bordeaux region. In Blaye itself is a perfectly preserved 17th-century military fortress (the citadel) that is classified as a historical monument by the French government. Because of the growing population of sturgeon that make the nearby Gironde River their habitat, gourmets may be surprised to note that the French government permits limited sturgeon fishing and caviar preparation. Blaye is the center for this tiny industry.
Most of the Blaye vineyards sit on steeply sloping hills with a southerly exposure overlooking the Gironde. The soil tends to be dominated by limestone, with outbreaks of clay and, from time to time, gravel. It is a very fertile soil that must be cultivated conservatively if the yields are to be kept under control. The grape varieties are essentially the same as in Bourg, with Merlot dominating the blend, followed by Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Malbec. The best red wines from the Côtes de Blaye are extremely well made and richly fruity, and are best drunk within their first 5–6 years of life. There is an interesting group of white varietals planted in the appellation including Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle, Merlot Blanc, Folle Blanche, Colombard, Chenin Blanc, and Ugni Blanc.
CÔTES DE BLAYE—AN OVERVIEW
Location: On the right bank of the Gironde River, approximately 30 miles from Bordeaux’s city center. The Côtes de Bourg lies to the south.
Acres under vine: 19,100 acres
Communes: There are more than 40 communes in this large appellation
Average annual production: 2,250,000 cases, of which 90% is red wine and 10% white
Classified growths: None, but there are 520 estates and 6 cooperatives boasting more than 500 members
Principal grape varieties: Red wine—Merlot dominates; white wine—Sauvignon and Sémillon, along with smaller quantities of Muscadelle and Colombard
Principal soil type: Clay intermixed with limestone, sand, and gravel
A CONSUMER’S CLASSIFICATION OF THE CHÂTEAUX OF THE CÔTES DE BLAYE
OUTSTANDING
Passion du Prieuré-Malesan
EXCELLENT
Garreau, Garreau—Cuvée Armande, Gigault—Cuvée Viva, Les Grands Maréchaux, Prieuré-Malesan
VERY GOOD
Ségonzac, La Tonnelle
GOOD
Bellevue, La Bretonnière, Haut-Sociando, Les Jonqueyrès, Pérenne, Péyraud, Petits-Arnauds Péyraud, Roland La Garde
Barbé, Chante Alouette-la-Roseraie, Clairac, Le Cone-Taillasson-de-Lagarcie, L’Escarde, La Grange, Loumede, Magveleine-Bouhou, Mayne-Boyer-Chaumet, Les Moines, Pardaillan, Peybonhomme, Peymelon, Ricaud, Sociando, Les Videaux
PROFILES—THE TOP CHÂTEAUX
Garreau
Proprietor: Société Civile
Vineyard size: 23.5 acres
Production: 3,700 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 2–8 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Cabernet Sauvignon—75%
Merlot—25%
Gigault—Cuvée Viva
Proprietor: Christophe Reboul-Salze
Vineyard size: 35 acres
Production: 2,500 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 2–10 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—85%
Cabernet Sauvignon—15%
Les Grands Maréchaux
Proprietor: Christophe Reboul-Salze
Vineyard size: 60 acres
Production: 5,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 2–8 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—80%
Cabernet Franc—10%
Cabernet Sauvignon—10%
Haut-Bertinérie
Proprietor: Daniel Bantegnies
Vineyard size: 111 acres
Production: Red wine—26,000 cases; white wine—6,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Red wine—Within 3–10 years of the vintage; White wine—Within 1–2 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Cabernet Sauvignon—45%
Merlot—45%
Cabernet Franc—10%
Note: This is the only estate in the Blaye appellation producing an excellent white wine made from 95% Sauvignon Blanc, 2% Colombard, 2% Sémillon, and 1% Muscadelle.
Haut-Sociando
Proprietor: Louis Martinaud
Vineyard size: 35 acres
Production: 6,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 2–3 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—65%
Cabernet Franc—35%
Proprietor: Pascal Montaut
Vineyard size: 35 acres
Production: 5,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 2–7 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—75%
Cabernet Franc—25%
Pérenne
Proprietor: A syndicate of Danish bankers
Vineyard size: 227 acres
Production: 32,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 2–5 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—54%
Cabernet Franc—44%
Cabernet Sauvignon—1%
Malbec—1%
Péyraud
Proprietor: Rey family
Vineyard size: 25 acres
Production: 4,500 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–6 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—50%
Cabernet Sauvignon—30%
Cabernet Franc—15%
Malbec—5%
Prieuré-Malesan
Proprietor: Bernard Magrez
Vineyard size: 175 acres, 5 acres for Passion du Prieuré-Malesan
Production: 500 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 2–10 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Prieuré-Malesan:
Merlot—60%
Cabernet Franc—6%
Cabernet Sauvignon—33%
Malbec—1%
Passion du Prieuré-Malesan:
Merlot—80%
Cabernet Franc—20%
Ségonzac
Proprietor: Jacob Marmet
Vineyard size: 75 acres
Production: 19,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–6 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—60%
Cabernet Sauvignon—20%
Cabernet Franc—10%
Malbec—10%
Note: There is also a very fine Cuvée Vieilles Vignes produced.
La Tonnelle
Proprietor: Eve Rouchi
Vineyard size: 25 acres
Production: 5,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 2–5 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—75%
Cabernet Franc—25%
Puisseguin-St.-Emilion, the easternmost of the satellite appellations, has been growing in size. The name is of Celtic origin, meaning “the hill with the powerful wine.” More than one half of the appellation’s production is dominated by the local cooperative under the label Roc de Puisseguin, but most of the estates that bottle their wines produce noteworthy wines that require drinking within 5–6 years of the vintage. They are considerably less expensive than most St.-Emilions.
Vintages in Puisseguin tend to follow those of the Libournais, with top years, such as 1998 and 2000, the best for bargain hunters in this appellation.
PUISSEGUIN-ST.-EMILION—AN OVERVIEW
Location: On the right bank of the Dordogne River, approximately 25 miles northeast of Bordeaux and 6 miles east of Libourne
Acres under vine: 2,445
Communes: Puisseguin
Average annual production: 575,000 cases
Classified growths: None, but there are 73 separate estates and one large cooperative
Principal grape varieties: Merlot dominates, followed by Cabernet Franc and small quantities of Cabernet Sauvignon
Principal soil type: Limestone and clay, with small amounts of sandstone
A CONSUMER’S CLASSIFICATION OF THE CHÂTEAUX OF PUISSEGUIN-ST.-EMILION
VERY GOOD
Branda, Guibot-La-Fourvieille
GOOD
Durand Laplagne, La Maurianne, de Roques, Vieux-Château-Guibeau
AVERAGE
Beauséjour, Cassat, La Croix-de-Mouchet, Fayan, Gontet-Robin, de Mole, Moulin, Rigaud, Roc de Boissac, Soleil, Teyssier, La Tour Guillotin
PROFILES—THE TOP CHÂTEAUX
Branda
Proprietor: Société Civile
Vineyard size: 14.8 acres
Production: 2,500 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 2–8 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—60%
Cabernet Sauvignon—30%
Cabernet Franc—10%
Proprietor: The Consorts Bessou
Vineyard size: 32 acres
Production: 6,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–7 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—70%
Cabernet Franc—15%
Cabernet Sauvignon—15%
Guibot-La-Fourvieille
Proprietor: Société Civile
Vineyard size: 173 acres
Production: 20,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 2–6 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—70%
Cabernet Franc—15%
Cabernet Sauvignon—15%
De Roques
Proprietor: Société Civile
Vineyard size: 62 acres
Production: 12,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–10 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—60%
Cabernet Franc—40%
Vieux-Château-Guibeau
Proprietor: Société Civile
Vineyard size: 100 acres
Production: 25,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 2–7 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—66%
Cabernet Franc—17%
Cabernet Sauvignon—17%
LUSSAC-ST.-EMILION
Lussac, located in the northeastern portion of the viticultural region of St.-Emilion, encompasses more than 3,450 acres. More than one half of the vineyard area is controlled by the local cooperative, but there are a number of fine estates making smooth, delicious, round, fruity wine that must be consumed in the first 5–6 years of life.
The vineyards generally consist of limestone-dominated terroirs, with a handful on more sandy soils. As with the other satellite appellations in St.-Emilion, Lussac is a veritable treasure trove for bargains.
LUSSAC-ST.-EMILION—AN OVERVIEW
Location: 25 miles northeast of Bordeaux and six miles northeast of Libourne on the right bank of the Dordogne River
Acres under vine: 3,458
Communes: Lussac
Average annual production: 775,000 cases
Classified growths: None, although there are 215 estates and one cooperative with 80 members
Principal grape varieties: Merlot and Cabernet Franc
Principal soil type: Sand, clay, gravel, and clay/limestone dominate the diverse soil types of this appellation
A CONSUMER’S CLASSIFICATION OF THE CHÂTEAUX OF LUSSAC-ST.-EMILION
GOOD
Bel-Air, Bellevue, Cap de Merle, Carteyron, Courlat, Du Lyonnat, Mayne-Blanc, Villadière
PROFILES—THE TOP CHÂTEAUX
Bel-Air
Proprietor: Jean-Noel Roi
Vineyard size: 50 acres
Production: 10,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–7 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—70%
Cabernet Franc—20%
Cabernet Sauvignon—10%
Bellevue
Proprietor: Charles Chatenoud
Vineyard size: 26 acres
Production: 4,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–10 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—70%
Cabernet Franc—30%
Cap de Merle
Proprietor: Jacques Bessou
Vineyard size: 20 acres
Production: 3,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 2–7 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—75%
Cabernet Franc—25%
Courlat
Proprietor: Pierre Bourotte
Vineyard size: 42 acres
Production: 8,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 2–6 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—70%
Cabernet Franc—20%
Cabernet Sauvignon—10%
Proprietor: Jean Milhade
Vineyard size: 111 acres
Production: 25,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 5–12 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—75%
Cabernet Franc—12.5%
Cabernet Sauvignon—12.5%
Mayne-Blanc
Proprietor: Jean Boncheau
Vineyard size: 37 acres
Production: 7,500 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 2–6 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—60%
Cabernet Sauvignon—30%
Cabernet Franc—10%
MONTAGNE-ST.-EMILION
Not far from the Graves sector of northern St.-Emilion and Pomerol is the satellite commune of Montagne-St.-Emilion. The hillside soils of this area consist of a clay/limestone blend, and the plateaus are primarily limestone-based soils intermixed with hard outbreaks of rock.
The best wines of Montagne almost always emerge from the hilly terrain along the southern border, in view of the splendid Barbanne River that runs through Lalande-de-Pomerol and Pomerol. Among all the satellite communes, some of the deepest, richest wines consistently come from Montagne. The top wines can represent excellent bargains since they are the qualitative equivalent of a good grand cru St.-Emilion.
MONTAGNE-ST.-EMILION—AN OVERVIEW
Location: 23 miles northeast of Bordeaux on the right bank of the Dordogne River
Acres under vine: 3,829
Communes: Montagne
Average annual production: 950,000 cases
Classified growths: None, but there are 220 estates and one cooperative with 30 members
Principal grape varieties: Merlot
Principal soil type: Limestone/clay
A CONSUMER’S CLASSIFICATION OF THE CHÂTEAUX OF MONTAGNE-ST.-EMILION
EXCELLENT
Faizeau-Vieilles Vignes, Roudier
VERY GOOD
Calon, Croix-Beauséjour, Maison Blanche, Tour-Musset, des Tours, Vieux-Château-St.-André
Calon
Proprietor: Jean-Noel Boidron
Vineyard size: 100 acres
Production: 14,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 5–15 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—70%
Cabernet Franc—15%
Cabernet Sauvignon—15%
Croix-Beauséjour
Proprietor: Olivier Laporte
Vineyard size: 19 acres
Production: 3,500 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 5–12 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—70%
Cabernet Franc—15%
Malbec—15%
Faizeau-Vielles Vignes
Proprietor: Chantel Lebreton and Alain Raynaud
Vineyard size: 25 acres
Production: 5,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 2–8 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—85%
Cabernet Sauvignon—10%
Cabernet Franc—5%
Maison Blanche
Proprietor: Françoise and Gerard Despagne-Rapin
Vineyard size: 80 acres
Production: 15,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 4–12 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—70%
Cabernet Franc—20%
Cabernet Sauvignon—10%
Roudier
Proprietor: Jacques Capdemourlin
Vineyard size: 75 acres
Production: 15,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 5–12 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—60%
Cabernet Franc—25%
Cabernet Sauvignon—15%
Tour-Musset
Proprietor: Henri Guiter
Vineyard size: 62 acres
Production: 12,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 2–7 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Cabernet Sauvignon—50%
Merlot—50%
Proprietor: G.F.A. Louis Yerles
Vineyard size: 175 acres
Production: 55,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 2–5 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Cabernet Franc—34%
Merlot—34%
Malbec—32%
Vieux-Château-St.-André
Proprietor: Jean-Claude Berouet
Vineyard size: 15.8 acres
Production: 3,200 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–12 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—75%
Cabernet Franc—25%
ST.-GEORGES ST.-EMILION
Beginning in 1972, the proprietors in the tiny commune of St.-Georges St.-Emilion were permitted to label their wines with the Montagne-St.-Emilion appellation. However, a number of them continued to seek their own identity with their appellation listed as St.-Georges St.-Emilion. There are several serious estates in St.-Georges, including Château St.-Georges and the much smaller Château Saint-André Corbin.
ST.-GEORGES ST.-EMILION—AN OVERVIEW
Location: 23 miles northeast of Bordeaux on the right bank of the Dordogne River
Acres under vine: 445
Communes: St.-Georges St.-Emilion is part of the Montagne commune
Average annual production: 95,000 cases
Classified growths: None, but there are 19 estates
Principal grape varieties: Merlot
Principal soil type: Clay/limestone
A CONSUMER’S CLASSIFICATION OF THE CHÂTEAUX OF ST.-GEORGES ST.-EMILION
VERY GOOD
Saint-André Corbin, St.-Georges
AVERAGE
Belair-Montaiguillon, Macquin-St. Georges, Tour-du-Pas-St. Georges
PROFILES—THE TOP CHÂTEAUX
Proprietor: GFA
Vineyard size: 42 acres
Production: 8,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 4–12 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—70%
Cabernet Franc—30%
St.-Georges
Proprietor: Georges Desbois
Vineyard size: 125 acres
Production: 25,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 4–15 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—60%
Cabernet Franc—20%
Cabernet Sauvignon—20%
CÔTES DE CASTILLON
Now the most fashionable of the satellite appellations, the Côtes de Castillon is a hotbed of activity as well as fertile hunting ground for a bevy of overachievers. Located east of Puisseguin-St.-Emilion, approximately 25 miles from Bordeaux, the appellation is named after the commune called Castillon-la-Bataille, which commemorates the Battle of Castillon. This 1453 battle marked the conclusion of the Hundred Years’ War when the English commander, Talbot, died during the defeat of his army.
As one of the older winemaking regions in the area, viticultural practices can be traced to Roman times. The soils, which range from extremely fertile to gravelly to sandy, become mixed with more gravel and clay the farther up the hillsides they are. On the highest areas, the soils are limestone mixed with clay, marl, and sandstone. According to the syndicate, 65% of the area’s production is controlled by the large Cooperative de Castillon. Appellation status was awarded in 1955 and there has been significantly more interest expressed in the wines as a lower-priced alternative to the wines of St.-Emilion.
Many of Bordeaux’s cutting edge wine-makers have purchased properties in the Côtes de Castillon, and their stunning efforts are particularly evident beginning in the late 1990s, particularly the 2000 vintage. These Bordeaux movers and shakers, particularly Hubert de Boüard, Gérard Perse, Alain Raynaud, Jean-Michel Fernandez, Stéphane Derénoncourt, Corinne Guisez, and Stéphane Von Neipperg, are brilliant wine-makers with established reputations (largely in St.-Emilion) and are pushing the envelope of quality in Côtes de Castillon. For that reason, this appellation is currently one of Bordeaux’s most exciting wine producing regions. It is only a matter of time before prices catch up with the flamboyant, concentrated, interesting wines being produced at Côtes de Castillon.
CÔTES DE CASTILLON—AN OVERVIEW
Location: On the right bank of the Dordogne River, 24 miles east of Bordeaux, bordered on the north by the appellation of Côtes de Francs, on the south by the Dordogne River, and on the west by St.-Emilion.
Acres under vine: 7,410
Communes: There are a total of eight communes, a bevy of which include the word “Castillon” as an appendage to the commune name. The principal communes include Belves-de-Castillon, Castillon-la-Bataille, Ste.-Colombe, St.-Jeanes-de-Castillon, St.-Magne-de-Castillon, Les Salles-de-Castillon, and St.-Philippe-d’Aiguille.
Average annual production: 1,650,000 cases
Classified growths: None, but there are 250 estates and one cooperative with more than 150 members
Principal grape varieties: Merlot, followed by Cabernet Franc
Principal soil type: Clay/limestone on the hillsides and more gravelly, sandy soil on the lower slopes
A CONSUMER’S CLASSIFICATION OF THE CHÂTEAUX OF THE CÔTES DE CASTILLON
OUTSTANDING
D’Aiguilhe, Clos des Lunelles
EXCELLENT
D’Aiguilhe-Querre, Brisson, Cap de Faugères, Clos l’Église, Clos Puy Arnaud, Domaine l’A, Joanin-Bécot, Laussac, Sainte-Colombe, Véyry, Vieux-Champs de Mars—Cuvée Johanna
VERY GOOD
De Belcier, Côte Montpezat, Dubois Grimon, Péyrou, Le Pin de Belcier, de Pitray, Puycarpin, La Roche Beaulieu Amarinum, La Terrasse
AVERAGE
Beynat, Blanzac, du Bois, Les Desmoiselles, Fontbaude, La Fourquerie, Haut-Tuquet, Lartigue, Maisières-Aubert, Moulin-Neuf, Moulin Rouge, Palanquey, Robin, Rocher-Bellevue, Roqueville, Tarreyro, Terasson
PROFILES—THE TOP CHÂTEAUX
Domaine l’A
Proprietor: Stéphane Derénoncourt
Vineyard size: 7.5 acres
Production: 500 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 2–12 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—60%
Cabernet Franc—25%
Cabernet Sauvignon—15%
Proprietor: Comtes de Neipperg
Vineyard size: 103 acres
Production: 8,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–13 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—80%
Cabernet Franc—20%
D’Aiguilhe-Querre
Proprietor: Société Civile
Vineyard size: 3 acres
Production: 250 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 2–10 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—90%
Cabernet Franc—10%
Brisson
Proprietor: Pierre Valade
Vineyard size: 50 acres
Production: 5,000–6,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 2–8 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—75%
Cabernet Franc—20%
Cabernet Sauvignon—5%
Cap de Faugères
Proprietor: Corinne Guisez
Vineyard size: 64 acres
Production: 13,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 2–8 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—50%
Cabernet Franc—38%
Cabernet Sauvignon—12%
Clos l’Église
Proprietor: Gérard Perse and Dr. Alain Raynaud
Vineyard size: 40 acres
Production: 5,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–14 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—70%
Cabernet Franc—15%
Cabernet Sauvignon—15%
Clos des Lunelles
Proprietor: Gérard and Chantal Perse
Vineyard size: 22.5 acres
Production: 1,650 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–15 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—80%
Cabernet Franc—10%
Cabernet Sauvignon—10%
Proprietor: Société Civile
Vineyard size: 18.5 acres
Production: 3,300 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 2–10 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—70%
Cabernet Franc—20%
Cabernet Sauvignon—10%
Joanin-Bécot
Proprietor: Juliette Bécot
Vineyard size: 25 acres
Production: 2,500 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 2–10 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—75%
Cabernet Franc—25%
Laussac
Proprietor: Dr. Alain Raynaud
Vineyard size: 29 acres
Production: 5,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 2–10 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—70%
Cabernet Franc—30%
Véyry
Proprietor: Christian Véyry
Vineyard size: 5 acres
Production: 400 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 2–8 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—80%
Cabernet Franc—20%
Vieux-Champs de Mars—Cuvée Johanna
Proprietor: Régis Moro
Vineyard size: 42 acres
Production: 9,500 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 2–8 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—80%
Cabernet Franc—15%
Cabernet Sauvignon—5%
CÔTES DE FRANCS
The Côtes de Francs is one of the newer appellations in the environs of St.-Emilion. Although the area traces wine-producing origins to the 11th century, it received appellation status only in 1976. There are 1,480 acres of vines, of which 20% is planted in white wine varietals, such as Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Muscadelle.
The highest potential would appear to be for red wines, as the Côtes de Francs is a natural extension to the east of Puisseguin-St.-Emilion and Lussac-St.-Emilion. The soils are ideal, with the lower slopes and valley floors containing a lot of clay and the hillsides clay and limestone mixtures with outbreaks of marl and chalk. The grapes of choice are Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Merlot. The Côtes de Francs does have the distinction of having one of Bordeaux’s only east-facing vineyard areas.
CÔTES DE FRANCS—AN OVERVIEW
Location: Nearly 30 miles from Bordeaux’s city center, on the right bank of the Dordogne River, Côtes de Francs is west of Puisseguin and Lussac
Acres under vine: 2,211
Communes: Francs, Saint-Cibard
Average annual production: 240,000 cases, of which 90% is red and 10% white
Classified growths: None, but there are 30 estates and one cooperative with 30 members
Principal grape varieties: Merlot
Principal soil type: Clay/limestone
A CONSUMER’S CLASSIFICATION OF THE CHÂTEAUX OF THE CÔTES DE FRANCS
VERY GOOD
Château de Francs, Marsau, La Prade, Puyguéraud, Puyguéraud—Cuvée Georges
GOOD
Les Charmes-Godard
PROFILES—THE TOP CHÂTEAUX
Château de Francs
Proprietor: Hébrard and Boüard families
Vineyard size: 67 acres
Production: 10,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–8 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—60%
Cabernet Franc—40%
Marsau
Proprietor: Jean-Marie and Sylvie Chadronnier
Vineyard size: 24 acres
Production: 4,500 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 2–8 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—85%
Cabernet Franc—15%
Proprietor: Patrick Valette
Vineyard size: 11 acres
Production: 2,200 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 2–6 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—80%
Cabernet Franc—10%
Cabernet Sauvignon—10%
Puyguéraud
Proprietor: Thienpont family
Vineyard size: 75 acres
Production: 15,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–8 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Merlot—55%
Cabernet Franc—30%
Cabernet Sauvignon—15%
LOUPIAC AND STE.-CROIX-DU-MONT
With the wine prices of Barsac and Sauternes soaring, I predict a more important role for the producers of the sweet white wines of Loupiac and Ste.-Croix-du-Mont. These two appellations, 24 miles south of Bordeaux on the right bank of the Garonne, facing Barsac and Sauternes across the river, have an ideal southern exposure. These areas received appellation status in 1930, and many observers believe the excellent exposition of the top vineyards and the clay/limestone soil base is favorable for producing sweet wines, particularly in view of the fact that the morning mists—so essential for the formation of the noble rot, Botrytis cinerea—are a common occurrence in this area. Although the sweet wines are receiving increasing attention from wine lovers, dry white wines, as well as a moderate quantity of dry red wines, are also produced.
LOUPIAC—AN OVERVIEW
Location: On the right bank of the Garonne River, approximately 24 miles southeast of Bordeaux and only 6 miles from Langon
Acres under vine: 865
Communes: Loupiac
Average annual production: 115,000 cases
Classified growths: None, but there are 70 estates
Principal grape varieties: Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Muscadelle
Principal soil type: Clay/limestone and gravelly clay with sandstone
STE.-CROIX-DU-MONT—AN OVERVIEW
Location: 24 miles southeast of Bordeaux and 5 miles from Langon
Acres under vine: 1,087
Communes: Ste.-Croix-du-Mont
Average annual production: 175,000 cases
Classified growths: None, but there are 90 estates
Principal grape varieties: Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Muscadelle
Principal soil type: Clay/limestone dominates the region
A CONSUMER’S CLASSIFICATION OF THE CHÂTEAUX OF LOUPIAC AND STE.-CROIX-DU-MONT
VERY GOOD (SWEET WINES)
Bourdon-Loupiac, Clos Jean, Crabitan-Bell-Vue (Cuvée Speciale), du Cros, Domaine du Noble, Loubens, Loupiac-Gaudiet, La Rame, Ricaud
PROFILES—THE TOP CHÂTEAUX
Clos Jean
Proprietor: Lionel Bord
Vineyard size: 40 acres
Production: 10,800 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 4–15 years of the vintage for the sweet wine, and 1–3 years for the dry wine
Grape varieties:
Sémillon—80%
Sauvignon Blanc—20%
Note: This property also makes an excellent Graves-like dry white wine.
Crabitan-Bell-Vue (Cuvée Speciale)
Proprietor: GFA B. Solan and family
Vineyard size: 81 acres
Production: 15,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 5–12 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Sémillon—85%
Sauvignon Blanc—8%
Muscadelle—7%
Note: The production of the Cuvée Speciale is extremely limited.
Du Cros
Proprietor: Michel Boyer
Vineyard size: 106 acres
Production: 17,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–10 years of the vintage for the sweet wine, and 1–3 years for the dry wine
Grape varieties:
Sémillon—70%
Sauvignon Blanc—30%
Note: This property also makes one of the finest dry white wines of the region.
Proprietor: Patrick Dejean
Vineyard size: 35 acres
Production: 4,400 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–10 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Sémillon—85%
Sauvignon Blanc—15%
Loubens
Proprietor: Arnaud de Sece
Vineyard size: 50 acres
Production: 8,500 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 5–10 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Sémillon—97%
Sauvignon Blanc—3%
Loupiac-Gaudiet
Proprietor: Marc Ducau
Vineyard size: 67 acres
Production: 7,500 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 3–12 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Sémillon—80%
Sauvignon Blanc—20%
La Rame
Proprietor: Yves Armand
Vineyard size: 50 acres
Production: 4,000 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 5–15 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Sémillon—75%
Sauvignon Blanc—25%
Note: A special cuvée, Réserve de Château, is even richer.
Ricaud
Proprietor: Alain Thienot
Vineyard size: 300 acres
Production: 2,000–2,500 cases
Plateau of maturity: Within 5–18 years of the vintage
Grape varieties:
Sémillon—80%
Sauvignon Blanc—15%
Muscadelle—5%
OTHER APPELLATIONS
While so much of the world of wine connoisseurship focuses on the great names and renowned appellations, there are a number of perennial overachievers operating in lowly regarded appellations.
Force of habit and an uncontrolled curiosity compel me to taste through the so-called petits vins of Bordeaux each time I visit. The following dry white and red wines represent the crème de la crème of my tastings from such appellations as Entre-Deux-Mers, Premières Côtes de Bordeaux, and generic Bordeaux. These wines are very fine, for the most part are humbly priced, and are made by highly motivated, sometimes compulsive/obsessive proprietors. I enthusiastically recommend that readers search them out. Even allowing for wide fluctuations in the value of the dollar vis-à-vis the euro, these wines rarely retail for more than $10 a bottle, yet frequently compete with wines selling for two to three times as much.
Note: Those marked with an asterisk are personal favorites.
RECOMMENDED PRODUCERS FROM THE APPELLATIONS OF ENTRE-DEUX-MERS, BORDEAUX, BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR, AND PREMIÈRES CÔTES DE BORDEAUX
WHITE WINES
Bauduc-Les Trois-Hectares (Bordeaux)
Bonnet (Entre-Deux-Mers)*
Bonnet—Cuvée Reservé (Entre-Deux-Mers)
Bourdicotte (Entre-Deux-Mers)
Carpia (Bordeaux)
Cayla (Bordeaux)
Cayla-Le Grand-Vent (Bordeaux)
La Closière (Bordeaux)*
Fondarzac (Entre-Deux-Mers)
Fongrave (Entre-Deux-Mers)
La Grande Clotte (Bordeaux)*
Launay (Entre-Deux-Mers)
Moulin-de-Launay (Entre-Deux-Mers)
Numero 1-Dourthe (Bordeaux)*
Château de Racaud (Cadillac)
Reignac (Bordeaux)*
Reynon-Vieilles Vignes (Bordeaux)*
Roquefort (Entre-Deux-Mers)
Thieuley (Bordeaux)*
Thieuley—Cuvée Francis Courselle (Bordeaux)
Toulet (Bordeaux)
La Tour Mirambeau (Entre-Deux-Mers)*
Turcaud (Entre-Deux-Mers)
RED WINES
Balestard (Bordeaux)*
Beaulieu Comtes de Tastes (Bordeaux Supérieur)*
Bois Pertuis (Bordeaux)*
Carsin (Premières Côtes de Bordeaux)
de Chastelet (Premières Côtes de Bordeaux)
Clos Chaumont (Premières Côtes de Bordeaux)*
La Cour d’Argent (Bordeaux Supérieur)
Courteillac (Bordeaux)*
La Croix de Roche (Bordeaux Supérieur)
Le Doyenné (Premières Côtes de Bordeaux)*
Epicure la Difference (Bordeaux)
L’Essence de Vignoble Dourthe (Bordeaux)*
Excellence de Bois Pertuis (Bordeaux)*
La Fleur Mongiron (Bordeaux)*
Fontenille (Bordeaux Supérieur)
Girolate (Bordeaux)*
La Grande-Chapelle (Bordeaux Supérieur)
Grand Mouëys (Premières Côtes de Bordeaux)
Grand Paris (Bordeaux Supérieur)*
Grée-Laroque (Bordeaux Supérieur)*
Haut-Nadeau (Bordeaux Supérieur)
Hostens-Picant (Ste.-Foy de Bordeaux)
Jonqueyrès (Bordeaux Supérieur)
La Joye (Bordeaux Supérieur)
La Maréchale (Bordeaux Supérieur)
Marjosse (Bordeaux)*
Parenchère (Bordeaux Supérieur)*
Parenchère—Cuvée Raphael Gazaniol (Premières Côtes de Bordeaux)*
Le Pin de Beau Soleil (Bordeaux Supérieur)*
Piras (Premières Côtes de Bordeaux)
Plaisance—Cuvée Aix (Premières Côtes de Bordeaux)
Plaisance—Cuvée Sortilège (Premières Côtes de Bordeaux)
Plaisance—Cuvée Tradition (Premières Côtes de Bordeaux)
de Plassan (Bordeaux)
Prieuré-Ste.-Anne (Premières Côtes de Bordeaux)
Rauzan Despagne—Cuvée Passion (Bordeaux Supérieur)*
Récougne (Bordeaux Supérieur)*
Reignac (Bordeaux Supérieur)*
Reynon (Premières Côtes de Bordeaux)*
Terres d’Agnes (Bordeaux Supérieur)
Thébot (Bordeaux)
Thieuley (Bordeaux)
Tire Pé-La Côte (Bordeaux)
Château de la Tour (Bordeaux Supérieur)
Tour de l’Espérance (Bordeaux Supérieur)
Tour de Mirambeau—Cuvée Passion (Bordeaux Supérieur)*
La Tuilerie de Puy (Bordeaux Supérieur)
Valmengaux (Bordeaux Supérieur)*
St. Emilion map spread to come
1 Because Les Forts de Latour is widely regarded as the finest of all the “second wines” and in tastings, frequently rated above more famous Pauillacs, its stature is such that it merits separate coverage.
2 This estate was bought by Château Canon and the production of the vines is now incorporated into Château Canon.
3 Yquem, despite the existence of other outstanding estates, rarely has any competition and must be considered to be the only Bordeaux wine in a class by itself.