The perception that much of Switzerland’s wine falls into the DYA (Drink Youngest Available) category was – and still is – widespread. As to whether Swiss wines could stand the test of time if laid down, this is a relatively new proposition – for Swiss winegrowers as much as for consumers. But it’s an idea that’s fast gaining credibility. For this, both growers and consumers have to thank the farsightedness of four Swiss wine journalists, Andreas Keller, Stefan Keller, Martin Kilchmann and Susanne Scholl, who in 2002 founded the organisation Mémoire des Vins Suisses. The idea behind this inspired initiative was not just to shine a spotlight on Switzerland’s finest wines but also to demonstrate their ageing potential.
Over the years since its inception, the Mémoire has built up a membership of some 56 leading winegrowers from all around the country. The criteria for inclusion are fourfold: their wines should have a track record for excellence over many years; they should express the typical character of their region; they should have a clearly identifiable style; and they should have the potential to develop and mature for at least 10 years.
Each of the 56 members has one wine in the Mémoire to represent their domaine, of which they must submit 60 bottles of every vintage. These are stored in the association’s oenothèque (wine library). Once a year, several vintages of the same wine are brought out and presented at a public tasting event known as Die Schätze des Schweizer Weins or Les Trésors du Vin Suisse.
The fact that the event is open to the public is proof that the Mémoire is not simply an exclusive little club where a handful of cognoscenti can sniff, slurp and mull over ageing examples of Chasselas from Lavaux, or Pinot Noir from Neuchâtel. Their objective is to showcase the country’s top wines to as wide a public as possible. As their charter states proudly: “A strong showing by the Swiss winegrowing fraternity both at home and abroad is almost a patriotic duty”.
A subsidiary (but important) objective is to encourage solidarity amongst the Swiss winegrowing fraternity and to familiarise members with wines from colleagues in other parts of the country. This may sound surprising – you might imagine the Swiss to be familiar with wines from their fellow winegrowing regions – but campanilismo or the inability to see beyond your own bell-tower is not unknown in this small country, where cantonal and linguistic loyalties are fierce. I’ve met Swiss Germans who have never tasted a single wine from the Geneva Region, and French-speaking Swiss for whom the wines of Zurich or Aargau are a closed book – yet both are familiar with the most interesting bottlings from Italy, France and (increasingly) Spain.
If you’re at all interested in Switzerland’s top wines and their development, you shouldn’t miss the annual opening up of this vinous treasure chest. The event – remarkably – is free, providing you sign up in advance. Check the website www