Crossing over the fertile sliver of land that separates the two lakes of Neuchâtel and Biel leads you to the third and smallest, Lake Murten or Morat. We’re right on the Röstigraben here, the name given to the border between French and German-speaking Switzerland, so both names are used. The town that give its name to the lake, with its beautifully preserved medieval centre and encircling ramparts, draws large numbers of day trippers, weekenders and honeymooners. For wine lovers, though, it’s the small, picturesque winegrowing villages on the opposite shore that provide the most convincing reason for a visit.
Just along the lake from the village of Môtier in the commune of Mont-Vully is the Cru de l’Hôpital winery. Mont-Vully is a minnow in Switzerland’s small winemaking pool, accounting for only around one percent of all Swiss wines, practically unknown even within the country but well worth seeking out. The vineyards of Cru de l’Hôpital, which rise gently to wooded hilltops on the skyline with sweeping views on clear days down to the lake and the Alps beyond, are owned by the Bourgeoisie de Morat, a body of fine, upstanding burghers whose original role was as stewards of the town’s hospital. This model of town or city ownership of vineyards whose income was invested in the local hospital belongs to a centuries-old European tradition. Les Hospices de Beaune is the most celebrated example; Strasbourg is another, with its Caves Historiques des Hospices.
In the case of the Cru de l’Hopital – as in Burgundy and Alsace – the clinical connection has been lost in the mists of time. Hospital patients no longer receive their therapeutic doses of wine, and the only perk for the Bourgeoisie members is a small discount on sales. Under their stewardship, however, the vineyards have been protected and cherished since the 15th century, and wine continuously made.
Christian Vessaz arrived here to head the winery in 2002, fresh out of Changins, Switzerland’s school of viticulture and oenology. “I did have plans to travel and study in New Zealand and Bordeaux, but an opportunity for something like this doesn’t come up too often. Besides”, he says with a disarming grin, “I was the only applicant!” Apparently, the post offered limited appeal to aspiring or ambitious winemakers.
Travel and internship plans were put on hold and Christian, with clear ambitions of his own for the Cru de l’Hôpital, proceeded to turn it into a modern, highly regarded winery, producing top-class wines that bear the stamp of the various and distinctive Mont-Vully terroirs. Under his aegis, yields were reduced, the domaine converted to organics and biodynamics, careful attention was devoted to winemaking at every stage from vine to cellar “and the results soon followed”. Today, thanks to his quiet but single- minded focus on quality, the Cru de l’Hôpital’s wines draw admiring glances from all sides and regularly win important awards.
In 2008, the winery was fully modernised, and a tasting room and shop were added. The lion’s share of its wines is sold within a small radius of the village, with people arriving by car to taste and fill up the boot with trophies; the rest is earmarked for selected retailers and Switzerland’s top restaurants.
Unlike its neighbours on Lake Neuchâtel and Lake Biel, where limestone predominates, the soil throughout their 13 hectares is predominantly sandy on a bedrock of molasse (sandstone). Amongst the vines, which thrive on south- and southeast-facing slopes of varying steepness, Chasselas occupies pole position. There are several different ones, each of which offers a good deal more than the usual thirstquenching promises. Chasselas Fichillien comes from a prime site cradled in a natural amphitheatre just above the winery, giving a delicately flowery wine with gentle fruit flavours and just enough acidity to give it character.
Their starring white is Traminer. This is Gewurztraminer by any other name, but Christian prefers the shortened version for fear of confusion with the often overripe, overblown, off-dry Gewurztraminers on the market. It’s a fine example of precise, elegant Gewurz, deep golden with a touch of lychees and rose petals, discreetly oaked and finishing fully dry. It was a proud moment in 2007 when the wine was admitted to the Mémoire des Vins Suisses collection, whose members count amongst Switzerland’s most eminent estates.
Another good choice is Chardonnay Champerbon, named after the plot in which it grows. Christian, a Burgundian by birth with his own vineyards in the Mâconnais, has a natural affinity with the grape – “I’ve worked a lot on my Chardonnay”, he says, and it shows. Richly aromatic, full-bodied and complex, it’s a convincing Swiss interpretation of the famous Burgundy grape.
After Chasselas the second most-planted variety is Pinot Noir and the best is Pinot Noir de Mur, from the vineyards below the eponymous village nextdoor to Môtier where the soil is slightly heavier with more clay than sand. I love its cherry aromas and admire the judicious use of oak, which preserves all the elegance of the variety at its best.
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ADDRESS: 200 Route du Lac 1787 Haut-Vully CONTACT: Tel. 026 673 19 10 |
WINES TO LOOK OUT FOR: Chasselas Fichillien Traminer Chardonnay Champerbon Pinot Noir de Mur |
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cru-hopital.ch |
No prices available |
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HIGHLIGHTS: Winery shop is open April to September: Fridays 2–6, Saturdays 10–12; January to March: Fridays 2–6. Vineyard trail in Jura Three Lakes region |
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