Sleek, architect-designed wineries are a feature of leading wine regions around the world: some of my favourite examples include the Frank Gehry-designed Marqués de Riscal winery in Rioja, Spain; Antinori’s Chianti estate between Florence and Siena; the Niepoort winery in Portugal’s Douro Valley; and Dominus Winery by Herzog & De Meuron in Napa Valley. Switzerland, by comparison, has kept a low profile in this regard – at least until the Lucchini family of Fattoria Moncucchetto in Lugano had the inspired idea of commissioning locally born, internationally celebrated architect Mario Botta to design their new facility in the centre of Lugano.
The challenge was to integrate their existing, 1919-built, traditional Ticinese farm building into the new design, which in turn should be settled discreetly into the hillside and the surrounding vineyards. Botta’s trademark granite blocks and cement, gently curving arches offset by vertical columns, and ample use of glass to make the most of the spectacular views out over the surrounding vineyards and Lake Lugano are all present. It’s a gorgeous space, adding an extra dimension to a visit here.
At the same time the Lucchini family hired a young winemaker named Cristina Monico to oversee operations at the brand-new winery. After a formative apprenticeship at nearby Tamborini – a large and old-established, local winemaking institution – Cristina took an engineering degree in viticulture and oenology jointly offered by the Agricultural Institute in Adige, South Tyrol and Geisenheim, Germany’s viticultural and oenology school. She later joined the viticulture research team at Ticino’s Agroscope-Terroir, majoring on a study of Merlot in these varied and complex local terroirs. This combination of hands-on experience, academic studies and research has equipped her well for her new post, and has earned her the title of one of the greatest young talents on the Swiss winemaking scene.
What gives Cristina evident satisfaction is the fact that the Lucchini family has given her carte blanche to work with the estate’s 6.5 hectares of vines. “I only make wines that give me pleasure, wines that will demand my fullest commitment”. An important decision, which she made early on in her career here, was not to follow the herd with a white Merlot, in response to the need for “a local white”. Instead, she has introduced other varieties that break out of the typical Ticino Merlot mould. Her entry-level Bianco dell’Arco, for example, is a fragrant, citrussy blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir where clay-limestone and granite predominate respectively, while the slightly pricier Moncucchetto Bianco del Ticino combines Chardonnay and Viognier from granitic soils to give a golden wine with gorgeous peachy flavours and discreet oaky hints. She has also introduced a classy, traditional method, sparkling wine named Refolo Brut, based on two of the classic Champagne grapes, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
Merlot L’Arco, from young vines planted on clay-limestone, is the kind of refreshing Merlot that shines with the region’s typical salumi, and is designed to be drunk young – and even, if the weather suggests it, slightly chilled. A step up is the Moncucchetto house red, 100 percent Merlot from 25-year-old vines grown on granitic soils and aged in used barriques to preserve the freshness and typicity of the grape. Top of the tree is Moncucchetto Riserva Lugano, a spicy, structured wine made mainly from Merlot with a seasoning smidge of Cabernet Sauvignon, grown in the well-drained, granite-based vineyards surrounding the winery and aged in barriques.
The response of this young, curious winemaker to the challenges of the Ticino climate, which famously alternates brilliant sunshine with diluvian downpours, is to experiment with new varieties that require few or no treatments against disease. In 2012 Cristina planted two PIWIs: Divico, a Swiss-bred red grape, and Johanniter, a white variety created in Freiburg, Germany. Both are labelled Il Murchì, the dialect name for the Morchino vineyards where they are planted. Divico is robust and gamey while Johanniter gives an appealingly floral wine with tropical fruit overtones.
The winery is situated a few minutes’ walk from the centre of Lugano, which adds to the appeal. For a combination of star architecture, beautiful wines presented by an enthusiastic and exuberant winemaker and views out over the lake, it can hardly be bettered. There is also an in-house chef, Andrea Muggiano, who prepares seasonal menus based on local produce, including some grown on the property – all served, naturally, with the house wines.
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ADDRESS: Via Marietta Crivelli Torricelli 27 6900 Lugano CONTACT: Tel. 091 967 70 60 |
WINES TO LOOK OUT FOR: Il Murchì (white and red) Bianco dell’Arco Moncucchetto bianco del Ticino Merlot L’Arco Moncucchetto Merlot Moncucchetto Riserva Lugano |
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info@moncucchetto.ch |
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moncucchetto.ch |
Price range 20 to 45 SFr. |
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HIGHLIGHTS: Visits to the Mario Botta-designed winery by appointment, except Sundays and public holidays. Seasonal menus on request for groups from 10 to 80 people by chef Andrea Muggiano. |
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