CONTENTS

Foreword by Ruth Reichl

Introduction: A Toast to Taste

Iimages FOOD WRITING THROUGH HISTORY: From Biblical Taboos to Sinclair’s Stockyards

Introduction

The Old Testament (c. 538–332 BCE)

Leviticus 11

Horace (65–8 BCE)

from Epistle 5, To Torquatus / A Cheerful Invitation to Dinner

Petronius (27–66)

from The Satyricon / Trimalchio’s Feast

Plutarch (46–120)

from Moralia / On Eating Meat

François Rabelais (1494–1553)

from Gargantua and Pantagruel / On the Gastrolaters

Ben Jonson (1572–1637)

Inviting a Friend to Supper

Jonathan Swift (1667–1745)

from A Modest Proposal

Joel Barlow (1754–1812)

from The Hasty Pudding / Canto II: On the American Kitchen Muse

Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin (1755–1826)

from The Physiology of Taste / On Taste

Charles Lamb (1775–1834)

from A Dissertation upon Roast Pig

George Gordon, Lord Byron (1788–1824)

from Don Juan / The Death of Pedrillo

John Keats (1795–1821)

La Belle Dame sans Merci

Alexandre Dumas (1802–1870)

from The Great Dictionary of Cuisine / The Onion

Henry David Thoreau (1817–1862)

from Wild Fruits / Watermelons

Frederick Douglass (1818–1895)

from My Bondage and My Freedom / Ash Cake and the Rich Man’s Table

Herman Melville (1819–1891)

from Moby-Dick / The Whale as a Dish

Louisa May Alcott (1832–1888)

from Transcendental Wild Oats

Anton Chekhov (1860–1904)

Oysters

Marcel Proust (1871–1922)

from Remembrance of Things Past / On the Madeleine

Upton Sinclair (1878–1968)

from The Jungle / A Visit to the Slaughterhouse

IIimages AT THE FAMILY HEARTH: Memory, Identity, Ethnicity

Introduction

A. J. Liebling (1904–1963)

from Between Meals / Just Enough Money

M.F.K. Fisher (1908–1992)

from The Gastronomical Me / The First Oyster

Austin Clarke (1934–)

from Pig Tails ’n Breadfruit / Souse, but no Black Pudding

Audre Lorde (1934–1992)

from Zami / Spices

Calvin Trillin (1935–)

from Feeding a Yen / A Magic Bagel

Sandra M. Gilbert (1936–)

“No Thank You, I Don’t Care for Artichokes,”

Maxine Hong Kingston (1940–)

from The Woman Warrior / Mother’s Cooking

Judith Moore (1940–2006)

from Never Eat Your Heart Out / Sauerkraut and a Pig-Sticking

Louise DeSalvo (1942–)

from Crazy in the Kitchen / The Bread / The Other Bread

Susan Gubar (1944–)

from Cooking the Kaddish

Ruth Reichl (1948–)

from Tender at the Bone / The Queen of Mold

Ntozake Shange (1948–)

from if I can Cook / you KNow God can / What’d You People Call That?

Henry Louis Gates Jr. (1950–)

from Colored People / Wet Dogs and White People

Elizabeth Ehrlich (1954–)

from Miriam’s Kitchen / Passover

Diana Abu-Jaber (1960–)

from The Language of Baklava / A House and a Yard

Linda Furiya (1966–)

from Bento Box in the Heartland / Swallowing Fish Bones

Jhumpa Lahiri (1967–)

Indian Takeout

IIIimages HUNGER GAMES:The Delight and Dread of Eating

Introduction

Gertrude Stein (1874–1946)

from Tender Buttons / Milk / Apple

Wallace Stevens (1879–1955)

The Emperor of Ice-Cream

William Carlos Williams (1883–1963)

This Is Just To Say

Walter Benjamin (1892–1940)

from Eating / Fresh Figs / Borscht / Pranzo Caprese

Ernest Hemingway (1899–1961)

When You Camp Out, Do It Right

Julia Child (1912–2004)

from My Life in France / Sole Meunière

Robert Farrar Capon (1925–2013)

from The Supper of the Lamb / On the Onion

Seamus Heaney (1939–2013)

Oysters

Erica Jong (1942–)

from Fruits & Vegetables / “I Am Thinking of the Onion”

Jeffrey Steingarten (1942–)

from The Man Who Ate Everything / My Food Phobias

Francine Prose (1947–)

from Cocktail Hour at the Snake Blood Bar: On the Persistence of Taboo

Diane Ackerman (1948–)

from A Natural History of the Senses / Et Fugu, Brute?

Cara de Silva (1953–)

from In Memory’s Kitchen / Introduction / Wilhelmina Pätcher, Cold Stuffed Eggs Pätcher

Campbell McGrath (1962–)

Capitalist Poem #5

Michael Paterniti (1964–)

from The Last Meal

Chang-rae Lee (1965–)

Sea Urchin

Peter Hessler (1969–)

from A Rat in My Soup

IVimages KITCHEN PRACTICES:Chefs, Cooks, and Tools of the Trade

Introduction

Alice B. Toklas (1877–1967)

from The Alice B. Toklas Cook Book / Murder in the Kitchen

Norbert Elias (1897–1990)

from The Civilizing Process / On the Use of the Fork at Table

Elizabeth Bishop (1911–1979)

Lines Written in the Fannie Farmer Cookbook

Ruth Stone (1915–2011)

Vegetables II

William Dickey (1928–1994)

Killing to Eat

Dorothy Gilbert (1936–)

Two Cook-Songs from the Planet Musaeus on the Same Subject, by Rival Poets

Roger J. Porter (1936–)

In Search of Filth: A Day in the Life of a Restaurant Health Inspector

Nancy Willard (1936–)

How to Stuff a Pepper

John Thorne (1943–)

from The Outlaw Cook / Cuisine Mécanique

Adrian Searle (1953–)

A Visit to Ferran Adrià’s Workshop

Patricia Smith (1955–)

When the Burning Begins

Anthony Bourdain (1956–)

from Kitchen Confidential / From Our Kitchen to Your Table

Gabrielle Hamilton (1965–)

from Blood, Bones & Butter / The Brunch Rush

Bee Wilson (1974–)

from Consider the Fork / Knife

Vimages CULTURAL TALES AND TABLES:Our Diverse Gastronomic Ways

Introduction

Curnonsky (Maurice Edmond Sailland) (1872–1956)

from The Almanach of Gourmets / Gastronomy and Politics

Roland Barthes (1915–1980)

from Empire of Signs / Chopsticks

Margaret Visser (1940–)

from The Rituals of Dinner / Chopsticks

Massimo Montanari (1949–)

from Food Is Culture / Taste Is a Cultural Product

Felipe Fernández-Armesto (1950–)

from Near a Thousand Tables / The Logic of Cannibalism

Ray Gonzalez (1952–)

from Memory Fever / Mama Menudo

Naomi Shihab Nye (1952–)

Arabic Coffee

Bill Buford (1954–)

from TV Dinners

Jonathan Gold (1955–)

from Counter Intelligence / Hot Dog on a Stick

Anya von Bremzen (1963–)

The Émigrée’s Feast

Jason Fagone (1979–)

from Horsemen of the Esophagus / The Passion of the Toast

VIimages FOOD POLITICS:Disputes Over the Menu

Introduction

Filippo Tommaso Marinetti (1876–1944)

from The Futurist Cookbook / The Manifesto of Futurist Cooking

Henry Miller (1891–1980)

from Remember to Remember / The Staff of Life

Gary Snyder (1930–)

Steak

Wendell Berry (1934–)

from What Are People For? / The Pleasures of Eating

Alan Richman (1944–)

from Fork It Over / My Beef with Vegans

Rachel Laudan (1944–)

from A Plea for Culinary Modernism

Steven G. Kellman (1947–)

from Fish, Flesh, and Foul: The Anti-Vegetarian Animus

Carlo Petrini (1949–)

Slow Food Manifesto

Barbara Kingsolver (1955–)

from Animal, Vegetable, Miracle / You Can’t Run Away on Harvest Day

Michael Pollan (1955–)

from The Omnivore’s Dilemma / Cattle Metropolis

Eric Schlosser (1959–)

from Fast Food Nation / The Worst

David Foster Wallace (1962–2008)

from Consider the Lobster

PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals)

The Natural Human Diet

VIIimages READING FOOD WRITING:The Language of Taste

Introduction

Betty Fussell (1927–)

Eating My Words

Terry Eagleton (1943–)

Edible Écriture

Molly O’Neill (1952–)

from Food Porn

Adam Gopnik (1956–)

from What’s the Recipe?: Our Hunger for Cookbooks

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