THE FAR WEST

1. The Tallest Mountain—The Silliest Naming

ALASKA Denali (Mt. McKinley)

Since people probably reached Alaska before any other part of the Western Hemisphere, they probably named North America’s tallest mountain thousands of years ago. They didn’t call it Mt. McKinley.
Replacing Native American names with those of European Americans is a form of cultural imperialism. The practice declares that the new rulers of the landscape can afford to ignore what Native names mean and connote in favor of new names that typically have no relation to what is named.
 
The mountain is Denali, “the great one.” It does not deserve to be named for William McKinley, who was never “the great one.”
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Low-profile conflicts have raged for many years between those who want to change the names of localities and geographic features back to their original Native names, and those who want them named for European American people, towns, or words. To some degree this is a contest between Native Americans and European Americans, but European Americans are usually found on both sides of the arguments. The battles might also be characterized as between traditionalists and those desiring change, except that both parties claim to have tradition on their side. Denali, or Mt. McKinley, dramatically embodies these disputes about names all across America, not only because it is such a dramatic place but also because the controversy at Denali has gone on for more than twenty-five years.
William A. Dickey renamed the peak, the tallest point in North America, Mt. McKinley in 1896. Why he got to name it is hard to fathom. Dickey had come to Alaska spurred by discoveries of gold in Cook Inlet. With three companions he made it to Talkeetna and saw Denali, “the great one” in the language of the nearby Tanaina Indians. According to C. H. Merriam, testifying before the U.S. Geographical Board in 1917, “The right of the discoverer to name geographical features has never been questioned,” but Dickey was no discoverer. Native people had discovered the mountain thousands of years earlier. Even if only white people “discover,” Russians saw it in the 1770s or 1780s and named it Bulshaia Gora, “big mountain.” Even if only English-speaking white people “discover,” George Vancouver saw Denali in 1794. Dickey was not even the first white American to see it; other Americans had preceded him by a quarter century.
Dickey had no serious reason to name the mountain as he did. William McKinley had not yet been martyred when he received the honor; indeed he had not even been elected president. Nor had McKinley ever been to the mountain, or even to Alaska. William Dickey favored conservative fiscal policies, while most people in the West wanted to expand the amount of money in circulation by minting more silver coins and certificates. Dickey was irritated by arguments he had lost with “free silver” partisans on his trip and decided to retaliate by naming Denali after the gold standard champion.
“The original naming was little more than a joke,” according to George R. Stewart, author of American Place-Names. From the first, some people preferred the Native name, and Dickey’s frivolous reason for choosing McKinley gave them ammunition. Nevertheless, probably because he wrote about his trip in the New York Sun, Dickey’s choice began to catch on. McKinley defeated William Jennings Bryan in 1896, so at least the mountain turned out to be named after a president, and, when McKinley was shot in Buffalo in 1901, after a martyred president.
Today however, many Americans consider the Native name more melodious and object to “McKinley” on aesthetic grounds—as if the Mississippi River had been renamed for, say, Zachary Taylor. Others support Native efforts to gain more acceptance, including better recognition on the landscape. “It’s time we listened to the Native people of Alaska,” declared Senator Ted Stevens of Alaska in 1991. “This mountain is the largest in North America. It was named by the Natives long before we arrived.”
Nationally, a lone congressman from Ohio prevents the renaming of the mountain. In 1975, Rep. Ralph Regula from Canton, William McKinley’s hometown, blocked a compromise proposed by the Alaska legislature to name the mountain Denali and leave the national park surrounding it named for McKinley. Five years later the National Park Service agreed to a compromise Regula couldn’t block: it changed the name of Mt. McKinley National Park to Denali National Park, but the mountain stayed Mt. McKinley. This resolution proved unstable, however. Finding its Native lobby more persuasive than Ohio’s McKinley lobby, Alaska changed its name for the mountain to Denali, relegating the 25th president to the parenthetical statement, “(also known as Mt. McKinley).” Regula has found a way to block any change on the national level, however. His aide told me, “The Board of Geographic Names won’t change names so long as legislation on the subject is pending. Congressman Regula always has legislation pending.” The legislation never gets anywhere, but it suffices to prevent action by the board.
When the Board on Geographic Names was considering a proposal to rename the mountain in 1977, Congressman Regula testified, “This action would be an insult to the memory of President McKinley and to the people of my district and the nation who are so proud of his heritage.” But Americans aren’t! That’s the problem: most Americans don’t rank William McKinley very high in the pantheon of presidents. They remember him if at all as a creation of political boss Mark Hanna, beholden to big business, and addicted to high tariffs. He also got us bogged down in a seemingly endless colonial war in the Philippines (25). Such facts do not deter Regula, who portrays McKinley as “a champion of the working class” and credits him for “settlement of the long-standing Spanish-American conflict.”
Naturally the congressman’s office claims higher principles, not mere local pride, motivate Regula to block renaming the mountain. “The congressman feels that a lot of money goes into maps,” emphasized aide Barbara Wainman, “and names shouldn’t be changed lightly.” Moreover, she noted, if they win Denali, Native groups will want to change other names.
On that last point Wainman is right. Entry 24 tells that Native groups do want to change other names all across America. And American Indians are winning some of these battles. Memphis renamed DeSoto Bluff “Chickasaw Heritage State Park.” “Custer’s Last Stand” is now “The Little Bighorn Battlefield.” Also, the U.S. Board on Geographic Names adopted a policy in 1990 to favor names derived from American Indian, Inuit, and Polynesian languages. Eventually Natives will outlast Ralph Regula and rename Denali.1
1. William E. Brown, Denali: Symbol of the Alaskan Wild (VA Beach, VA: Downing, 1993), 27–28; C.H. Merriam, “Shall the Name of Mount Rainier Be Changed?” statement before U.S. Geographical Board (DC: GPO, 1917), 3; William Harris and Judith Levey, The New Columbia Encyclopedia (NY: Columbia UP, 1975), 1650; Barbara Wainman, conversation, 9/3/97; Donald J. Orth and Roger L. Payne, Principles, Policies, and Procedures: Domestic Geographic Names (Reston, VA: U.S. Board on Geographic Names, 1997 [1987], 14; 10/10/91 clipping in Ralph Regula’s files, 9/97; Mark Monmonier, Drawing the Line (NY: Holt, 1995), 66–67.
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2. King Kamehameha 1, The Roman!

HAWAII Honolulu

Kamehameha I was an extraordinary leader. Born on the Big Island of Hawaii about 1758, he died on Kona in 1819. Using his intelligence, courage in man-to-man combat, his own genealogy (very important in traditional Hawaiian culture), diplomacy, Western arms, and capable advisors and underlings, Kamehameha conquered all of the Big Island of Hawaii in the 1790s. He then moved northwest, conquering Maui, Lanai, Molokai, and Oahu. Finally in 1810 by negotiation he was acknowledged king over Kauai, unifying all the Hawaiian Islands for the first time.1
Kamehameha’s imposing statue stands across South King Street from Iolani Palace in Honolulu. An identical statue stands near his birthplace. A third statue, made from molds prepared from the one in Honolulu, stands indoors in the United States Capitol. Eight and one half feet tall with gold robes, it is “easily the most striking in the National Statuary Hall” in the words of the guidebook for the collection. Kamehameha’s likeness can thus be seen on the landscape at more places than that of any other Asian or Pacific Island American.
Only it’s not Kamehameha’s likeness.
The statue had its origin in 1878 when Walter Gibson, a non-Polynesian member of the Hawaiian legislature, proposed it in connection with the centennial of Hawaii’s “discovery” by Captain James Cook. This had a certain logic, since Kamehameha was among the many Hawaiians who had met Cook during his two visits to the islands before he was killed there. The legislature appropriated $10,000 for the project and made Gibson chair of the monument committee, which included native Hawaiian members but soon became a one-man show. Gibson chose Thomas R. Gould, a Boston sculptor, to craft the work.
Gould never went to Hawaii and seems never to have learned what Kamehameha looked like, although several portraits did exist, painted at different points in his life. Photographs of native Hawaiians were mailed to Gould as he worked on the statue in Florence, Italy, but they did not make much impact either. Gould was in Italy, so he made the statue look like an Italian with a long Roman cloak. According to travel writer Hal Glatzer, “The statue is essentially that of a Roman general with dark skin. The features are more Caucasian than Polynesian. The pose, with the right arm extended, palm upturned, is ‘supposed’ to be a welcoming aloha gesture. But it is based on the Roman pose with an upright staff or spear.”
 
Kamehameha I with his Roman nose and Roman pose. This copy is in the National Statuary Hall in the U.S. Capitol.
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David Kalakaua had become king of Hawaii in 1874, and in 1882. Hawaiians finished the Iolani Palace for him. The statue of King Kamehameha I, not ready for the 1878–79 centennial of Cook’s visit, was scheduled as part of Kalakaua’s belated coronation festivities connected with opening the new palace in 1883. Cast in bronze in Paris and then shipped to Hawaii via Cape Horn, the statue was lost before rounding the Cape when the ship wrecked at the Falkland Islands.
The Hawaiians had insured the statue for $12,000, and with that money they ordered another one. Gould made a copy and sent it off to Hawaii. Before it could get there, however, a ship came into Hawaii with the original! Enterprising Falkland Islanders had recovered it from the sea and sold it to the captain for $500. He sold it to Gibson for $875. Now Hawaii had two statues, and neither looked anything like Kamehameha. The reordered statue was placed in front of Iolani Palace, while the original went up near the northernmost point of the Big Island, near Kamehameha’s birthplace.2
Making Kamehameha look Roman is a classic example of Eurocentrism. Hawaiians do not look Italian. James King, lieutenant to Captain Cook, said Kamehameha had “as savage a looking face as I ever saw.” “Savage” of course was a Eurocentric way of saying “Polynesian”; Hawaiian women found Kamehameha quite attractive. Nevertheless, Native Hawaiian activist Poka Laenui points out that the statues do symbolize how Hawaiians of that era were finding ways to “walk in two worlds”—their own culture and the European-dominated world economy. Hawaii adopted a written constitution and other accoutrements of modern nationhood. Regardless, Europeans were taking over Hawaii as they were taking over Kamehameha’s likeness. In 1887, whites forced Kalakaua to sign a constitution supporting white interests. Venereal disease, cholera, influenza, measles, typhoid, smallpox, and other diseases from Europe and Asia, including leprosy which arrived in 1830, decimated the Hawaiians. Hawaii’s Native population shrank from perhaps 350,000 when Captain Cook arrived to about 35,000 by 1893. In that year American residents on Hawaii, aided by 162 United States sailors, overthrew Queen Liliuokalani, Kalakaua’s successor. It seemed then that Native Hawaiians might disappear from their own country as thoroughly as the likeness of King Kamehameha had from his own statue.
Since then, “pure Hawaiians” have continued to decline in number to about 8,000. In the 1970s and 1980s however, in a development that paralleled Black Power and American Indian movements on the mainland, the number of Hawaiians who identified themselves as Native Hawaiian soared. So has the number of Native Hawaiians learning Hawaiian music, dance, language, crafts, and navigation. In the 1990 census about 140,000 people had substantial Hawaiian ancestry and were identified as Native Hawaiian.3 Although that is only one-eighth of the population of the islands, their numbers continue to increase rapidly.4
 
Entry 26 tells of a similar population decline and rebound among Native Americans, and a corresponding rise in the number of those identifying themselves as American Indians.
1. Kamehameha never conquered the farthest west island of Niihau, which has less than a hundred square miles.
2. In 1912 it was moved nearby to the lawn of the county building at Kapaau where it still stands.
3. Other estimates are as high as 200,000; much depends on how the question is phrased, which has changed in almost every census. Another 72,000 Native Hawaiians live elsewhere in the United States, including 33,000 in California.
4. Jacob Adler, “The Kamehameha Statue,” Hawaiian Journal of History 3 (1969): 87-91; Gavan Daws, Shoal of Time (Honolulu: U. of HI Press, 1968), 29, 34–46; Hal Glatzer, e-mail, 8/97; Philip H. Viles Jr., National Statuary Hall Guidebook (Tulsa: Viles, 1995), 45; Poka Laenui, e-mails, 7/98; West Hawaii Today Web site, 7/98; Laura Steinhoff, Cultural Identity within the Hawaiian Sovereignty Movement (Portland, OR: Reed College B.A. thesis, 1997), 11–12, 21–22, 33–34; Bureau of the Census, 1990 Census, HI (DC: GPO, 1992).
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3. The Flat Earth Myth on the West Coast

CALIFORNIA Sacramento

An 1883 statue of Christopher Columbus and Queen Isabella of Spain dominates the ground floor rotunda of the California State Capitol. At first glance, for California thus to honor Columbus seems absurd. After all, he never came within several thousand miles of Sacramento. Nor did Italian Americans in Sacramento cause the California Columbus monument to come into being, as they did elsewhere in the United States. D. O. Mills, a Sacramento banker, donated the statue; at its dedication his brother declared “that California, more than any other state in the American Union, fulfills [Columbus‘s] visions of marvelous lands beyond the setting sun.” Californians, like Columbus, had journeyed west to find their fortune. The 19th century was the time of “manifest destiny” as the United States conquered Indian nation after Indian nation and then went on to take Hawaii, Puerto Rico, Guam, and the Philippines, just as Columbus and the Spanish had done in the Caribbean.’
The 19th century was also the prime time for telling lies about Columbus. One was the flat earth myth. Most Americans learned in grade school that Europeans thought the world was flat until Columbus proved it round; the statue illustrates this myth. As The American Pageant, a high school American history textbook, told it, “The superstitious sailors, fearful of sailing over the edge of the world, grew increasingly mutinous.” My poster-book The Truth About Columbus includes a photo of a 1492 globe made in Europe before Columbus sailed and points out that in 1491 almost no one thought the world was flat. It looks round. In a lunar eclipse it casts a round shadow on the moon. The Catholic Church said it was round. Sailors are especially able to appreciate its roundness when ships disappear over the horizon hull first as the roundness of the earth gets in the way. Columbus never had to contend with a superstitious crew worried about falling off the end of the earth.
 
In the California State Capitol, Columbus holds up a sphere to persuade the queen of the roundness of the earth. The caption on the monument invokes another myth: “I will assume the undertaking,” she said, “for my own crown of Castile, and am ready to pawn my jewels to defray the expenses of it, if the funds in the treasury shall be found inadequate.” The words are from the 1837 History of the Reign of Ferdinand and Isabella by William Prescott, whose work The Columbia Encyclopedia calls, charitably, “outdated because of subsequent research.” Kirkpatrick Sale’s book on Columbus calls the jewel-pawning scene “pure fiction.”
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American novelist Washington Irving, who invented Rip Van Winkle, popularized the flat earth fable in 1828 in his best-selling biography of Columbus. Irving probably thought it added a dramatic flourish. Writers of American histories soon picked up the story, and since textbooks tend to be clones of each other rather than based on historical sources, his little hoax persists in some books to this day. Other elements of American culture still perpetuate it. A character in the movie Star Trek V for instance, says, “The people of your world once believed the earth to be flat; Columbus proved it was round.” This statue in Sacramento helps maintain the myth, as does a statue of Columbus holding up a globe at the Ohio State Capitol.
Irving himself probably thought it would do no harm. But it does. It invites us to believe that most people had only a crude understanding of the planet they lived on before a forward-thinking European man of science brought them out of ignorance. Such a story uplifts Columbus’s voyages from mere passages for plunder and trade into scientific expeditions. It also makes the boss smarter than the “motley crew” in the words of The American Pageant. And it fits with the archetype of progress in American culture: we typically imagine our predecessors as primitives, exactly the kind of folk who would believe in a flat earth.
In the past, Americans invoked Columbus reflexively when celebrating progress. Columbus, Wisconsin, boasts a Columbus Museum mostly filled with objects from the 1893 Columbian World Exposition in Chicago. Forty years later, conjoined with its 1933 Century of Progress exposition, the Windy City was still celebrating Columbus. Near the downtown lakefront on newly built Columbus Drive, Chicago put up an elaborate Columbus monument whose four busts symbolize “faith, courage, freedom, and strength.”
Often Italian Americans lie behind the adoration of Columbus across the American landscape.3 The 1933 monument in Chicago says it was “Commissioned by Chicago-area Italian Americans.” Local Italian Americans rather than any historic incident also gave us monuments to Columbus in Columbus Circle in New York City, along the riverfront in Philadelphia, on the grounds of the state capitols in Indiana and Iowa, and in other locales across America. As late as 1992, the 500th anniversary of his arrival, Italian Americans were still at it. The Sons of Italy in America paid for a new Columbus marker in Albany, New York, as part of that city’s observance of the Columbus Quincentennial. Philadelphia donors with Italian last names put up a monolith to honor Columbus as “Explorer, Charismatic Leader, Mathematician, Cartographer, Navigator, Visionary, and Naturalist”!
Across America, Columbus probably gets more statues, monuments, and plaques in public places than any other individual. Many stand in locations named for him, for more cities, counties, and geographic features are named “Columbus” or “Columbia” than have been named for anyone except George Washington.
In Washington, D.C., his monument in front of Union Station proclaims:
To the memory of Christopher Columbus
Whose high faith and indomitable courage gave to mankind a new world.
The Eurocentrism of that statement is breathtaking: only when Europeans arrived did “mankind” arrive. Historian William McNeill estimated that when Columbus arrived in the Americas in 1492, about one hundred million people already lived here. Were they not mankind? At the State Capitol in Indianapolis, a monumental bust of Columbus says:
CHRISTOPHER COLUMBUS
Born in Genoa, Italy, 1451. Discovered America October 12, 1492.
This land of opportunity and freedom was thus preserved for
humanity by the perennial genius abiding in the Italian race.
Somehow the people living here were not “humanity” either, and somehow if Columbus had not gotten here to preserve it, the Americas might have vanished! But then, as the Bishop of Avila said to Queen Isabella in 1492, “Language is the perfect instrument of empire.”
The people who were here first are no longer passively accepting these Eurocentric views. On October 14, 1991, demonstrators splashed the monument in front of Union Station with red paint, leaving the message “500 years of genocide.” The next year, to mark Columbus’s Quincentennial, Native Americans poured blood over it. In Denver the American Indian Movement launched a 1992 counter-demonstration that included a “counter-memorial,” consisting of 100 skeletal tipis, 25’ tall, burned and scorched, accompanied by 29 official-looking historical markers with texts by American Indian Movement leader Russell Means, Native American author Leslie Marmon Silko, Bartolome de las Casas, and others. Protesters wrote “stolen land” and “murderer” at the base of a fifty-foot Columbus statue in Pittsburgh also in 1992. “Killing the Indians” read a sign found at a Columbus statue freshly coated with red paint in Torrington, Connecticut. In Newport, Rhode Island, a statue of Columbus was sprayed with red paint on Columbus Day, 1993, and on January 16, 1998, a woman sprayed red paint on a sculpture of Columbus inside the White House. Throughout the Americas from Chile to Canada, Bolivia to Honduras, paint-wielding protesters have repeatedly defaced statues of the 15th-century explorer. According to the protesters, the paint symbolizes the blood shed by Native Americans resulting from the conquest of the Americas that began with Columbus’s second voyage in 1493.
The flat earth myth and these statues and monuments help legitimize what Californians in the nineteenth century, Spaniards in the fifteenth century, and other Europeans in the centuries in between had done to Native Americans. They imply that only Europeans really matter because only Europeans are really progressive. If Californians no longer wish to make this claim, now that California is less than 50 percent European American, they could add words or symbols to the flat earth statue that prove the story was a lie and tell the Native side as well as the European side of Columbus’s accomplishment.
Better yet, Californians might replace this tired cliche with a new statue representing California’s difficult and marvelous history. When Americans put up yet another plaque about Columbus, they are really admitting a failure of their own historical imagination. Why not bring to light a less known figure of local importance? If Californians want to honor Italian American “explorers,” they might choose Alejandro Malaspina, or Paolo Emilio Botta. Malaspina was an Italian navigator and naturalist in the Spanish navy who circum navigated the globe three times. He led a scientific expedition between 1789 and 1794 that explored the Pacific Coast and tried to find a northwest passage to Asia. Botta served aboard Le Héros, the French vessel commanded by Auguste Duhaut-Cilly, in 1827–28. Botta described the people and fauna of California and translated Duhaut-Cilly’s extensive book on California into Italian. These men are not familiar names from second grade on, so Americans might learn something from commemorating either person. Unfortunately the California landscape is silent about these Italians, who did reach California. It shouts about Columbus, who did not.4
1. The U.S. didn’t actually finish conquering the Philippines until the next century—about 1916. See 25.
2. In 1994, in one of those typical textbook makeovers that corrects a mistake with the smallest change possible, Pageant replaced “fearful of sailing over the edge of the world” with “fearful of sailing into the oceanic unknown.”
3. For the same reason, the Minnesota State Capitol boasts a statue of Norwegian explorer Leif Ericksson.
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4. Exploiting vs. Exterminating the Natives

CALIFORNIA Sacramento

At 27th and I Streets in Sacramento stands “Sutter’s Fort,” one of the oldest buildings in California, preserved and reconstructed. It comes with a state historic marker:
SUTTER’S FORT
John Augustus Sutter, born of Swiss parents in Germany,
arrived in New York in July 1834 and in California in July 1839.
He founded the fort in 1839 to protect “New Helvetia,”
his 76-square-mile Mexican land grant. Of the original fort,
the two-story central building, made of adobe and oak remains;
the fort’s outer walls and rooms, which had disappeared
by the 1860s, were reconstructed after the state acquired
the property in 1890.
While the marker is not wrong, it does not tell the most important facts about the fort, including who built it and how Sutter’s enterprise worked.
John Augustus Sutter talked the Mexican governor of California into granting him 76 square miles of the Sacramento valley. Of course it was already occupied: about 200 Miwok Indians were living about twelve miles south of what became Sutter’s Fort, Kadema village was five miles west, and five miles north was the territory of the Maidus. Following a pattern used across the continent (see 81), Sutter negotiated with chiefs or men he considered chiefs. He honored these men with the title of “capitanos” and gave them blankets, sugar, alcohol, and other goods after they supplied him with workers.
Although unmentioned on the marker, Sutter’s Fort was first and foremost a Native American site. “Except for a few overseers, Indians did all the work on Sutter’s rancho,” historian Albert Hurtado points out. “His” Miwoks and Maidus built the fort, plowed the fields, planted wheat and other crops, tended his livestock, wove cloth, ran a hat factory and blanket company, operated a distillery, worked in his tannery, staffed something of a hotel for immigrants to California from the East, and killed deer to get food for them all.
Equally missing from the marker is any mention of the amazingly interracial nature of Sutter’s Fort. While predominantly American Indian, Sutter’s “New Helvetia” also had Mexicans, Swiss, Hawaiians, Russians, Germans, and Americans. Sutter even brought eight or ten Polynesian workers with him to California from Hawaii in 1839—one as his common-law wife.1 Two years later he bought Fort Ross and all of its stores, the only Russian settlement in California, on credit. He then organized a 200-man Indian army—clothed in Tsarist uniforms and commanded in German!—and used this militia to seize children from distant or hostile tribes to maintain his labor supply.
Interpretation within Sutter’s Fort does tell that Native Americans built the place, which marks an improvement over how history is presented at California’s many missions. At least twenty state historical markers treat missions without mentioning Native Americans—although mission communities were Indian communities typically comprising 200 to 2000 natives, a handful of Spanish or Mexican soldiers and their family members, and two priests. Half a dozen other markers mention Indians only as recipients of Spanish services—the most insulting is at San Juan Capistrano, which the marker describes as “seventh in the chain of 21 missions established in Alta California to christianize and civilize the Indians.” In San Luis Obispo County, a marker tells that Mission San Luis Obispo was “built by the Chumash Indians living in the area”; another marker for its outpost, Santa Margarita Asistencia, states “Here the mission padres and the Indians carried on extensive grain cultivation.” No marker in any other county lets on that Indians made and laid virtually every brick in every mission in California. Instead, like the slave plantations we will visit later (72), the head man did all the work himself, as in this marker in Santa Clara County:
OLD ADOBE WOMAN’S CLUB
This adobe, among the oldest in Santa Clara Valley, was one of several continuous rows of homes built in 1792–1800 as dwellings for the Indian families of Mission Santa Clara. It links the Franciscan padres’ labors with California of today.
When interpretation does mention Indians at missions maintained as museums—particularly at those still owned by the Catholic Church—it presents the missions as harbors of shelter and well-being built by the Spanish for the Natives, echoing the state markers. Guides and labels do not tell how overseers forced Indians to farm, build, and even worship under threat of lash and chain.
At Sutter’s Fort, labels and guides similarly imply that the Indians were there voluntarily and were treated well. Sutter did feed and pay “his” Indians, but the system amounted to serfdom and verged on slavery. “I had to lock the Indian men and women together in a large room to prevent them from returning to their homes in the mountains at night,” wrote Heinrich Lienhard, Sutter’s manager. “Large numbers deserted during the daytime.” Sutter armed men from “his” nearby villages to steal children from more distant villages and sold the captives in San Francisco to pay his debts. Sexual pleasure may also have played a role; writer William Holden suggests Sutter “was fond of the young Indian women.” In 1844 Pierson Reading, Sutter’s manager, extolled the easy life he led: “The Indians of California make as obedient and humble slaves as the Negro in the south. For a mere trifle you can secure their services for life.” One California Indian recalled a life not so easy: “My grandfather was enslaved by Sutter to help in building the Fort. While he was kept there, Sutter worked him hard and then fed him in troughs. As soon as he could, he escaped and with his family hid in the mountains.”
Before condemning Sutter too roundly however, we need to compare Native life under the Spanish and Mexicans (including Sutter) to what happened under the Anglos who followed him. Spanish and Mexican rule was brutal. Indians had revolted against the missions in 1771, 1775, 1810, 1812, 1824, and 1831 according to California historian David Wyatt. Nevertheless, Sutter’s enterprises did connect the Indians to the world economy. The alternative, not to be so connected, meant extermination. Anthropologists are fond of saying that the French penetrated Native American societies, the Spanish acculturated them, and the British expelled them. Or, equally accurate, the French exploited the Indians, the Spanish enslaved them, and the Anglos killed them. And of course disease played a major role, regardless of the colonizers’ nationality.
Sutter volunteered his Indian garrison to U.S. Army Lieutenant John C. Frémont in Fremont’s 1846 campaign against the “Californios,” the Mexicans on the coast, during the Mexican War. Fremont’s victory helped secure California for the United States, but the new territorial government had no further use for Native Americans. A newspaper account related the 1849 massacre of a Pomo Indian village at Clear Lake, north of San Francisco: “The troops arrived in the vicinity of the lake and came unexpectedly upon a body of Indians numbering between two and three hundred.... They immediately surrounded them and as the Indians raised a shout of defiance and attempted to escape, poured in a destructive fire indiscriminately upon men, women, and children. They fell, says our informant, as grass before the sweep of the scythe.” Sutter would surely have had his Indian army conquer and enslave the Pomos rather than massacre them, but Sutter was not long to be a factor in California. That same year James Marshall discovered gold some fifty miles east of Sutter’s Fort. Sutter tried to keep it secret, but soon thousands of Americans, hundreds of Chinese, and other immigrants from Europe and Latin America surged to California to seek their fortune. Sutter’s rule was not strong enough to withstand this rush. His Indians fled, leaving no one to harvest his wheat. Miners plundered his livestock and even stole his millstones. In the ensuing anarchy, even his legal claim to the land was challenged (though eventually upheld) and Sutter went bankrupt.
The Natives likewise had to deal with this anarchic white frontier. For a moment, it seemed they might benefit from the discovery of gold. In 1848, of 4000 gold miners in the central mining district, more than half were American Indians. One white might hire fifty Indians, who received about forty dollars a month, four times what Sutter had paid two years earlier, yet whites made huge profits from their labor. Some Native Americans were able to mine on their own using willow baskets, and some became temporarily middle-class from their earnings. Almost immediately however, whites began driving Native workers out of the labor force. Indian men were confined to panning gold at the edges of white society; many Indian women became prostitutes.
Even these alternatives did not last long. White Americans thought of California Indians as depraved because most wore little or no clothing, “Digger Indians” because they used “primitive” gathering technology and ate “disgusting” food, “horrendously ugly and dirty,” and heathen even if Catholic. As a result, in the words of historian Tomas Almaquer, “the California state government launched a systematic policy of sanctioned decimation.” In January 1851, Gov. Peter H. Burnett’s message to the California legislature read, “A war of extermination will continue to be waged between the two races until the Indian race becomes extinct.” A startling drop in native population ensued. In 1848 perhaps 150,000 Indians lived in California, compared to about 15,000 non-Indians, mostly Mexican Californians. Ten years later just 16,000 Indians were left.
By 1910 “Sutter’s Indians” had been ravaged. The Maidus, who had numbered at least 9,000, were reduced to 1,000 people, and the Miwoks, starting with like numbers, to 670. They did not disappear though, and even rebounded somewhat by 1990—the Maidus to 2,334—and are contesting nearby Davis’s renaming a street for Sutter, whom they call “an enslaver.” They have disappeared from the historical marker for Sutter’s Fort however, even though they built it.2
1. He also had a legal wife in Switzerland.
2. Santa Barbara Indian Center and Dwight Dutschke, “A History of American Indians in California,” in CA Dept. of Parks and Recreation, Office of Historic Preservation, ed., Five Views (Sacramento: Office of Historic Preservation, 1988), 42, 70; Albert Hurtado, Indian Survival on the California Frontier (New Haven: Yale UP, 1988), 47–49, 75 88–89, 104–7; Hurtado, “John A. Sutter and the Indian Business,” in Kenneth N. Owens, ed., John Sutter and a Wider West (Lincoln: U. of NE Press, ‘94); Jack D. Forbes, “What Do We Honor When We Honor Sutter?” e-mail, 1/19/99; Heinrich Lienhard, A Pioneer at Sutter’s Fort, 1846–1850 (Los Angeles: Calafia Society, 1941), 67–68; David Wyatt, Five Fires (Reading, MA: Addison-Wesley, 1997), 39; William Holden, “‘Captain’ John Sutter,” American History 2/98: 34, 66; Joe Pitti, conversation, 1/14/99; Philip Burnham, How the Other Half Lived (Boston: Faber and Faber, 1995), 101–8; Tomás Almaquer, Racial Fault Lines (Berkeley: U. of CA Press, 1994), 5, 8, 26, 120–30; Francis L. and Roberta B. Fugate, Roadside History of NM (Missoula: Mountain Press, 1989), 14; Melanie Turner, “Yes, Street Will Remain Sutter Place,” Davis Enterprise, 1/10/99.
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5. China Beach Leaves Out the Bad Parts

CALIFORNIA San Francisco

A cul-de-sac off El Camino Del Mar near 28th Avenue in San Francisco leads to a lovely stretch of publicly owned coastline. At the head of the trail down to the beach is a large trapezoidal stone marker placed by Chinese Americans in 1981:
CHINA BEACH
Since Gold Rush times, this cove was used as a campsite by many of
the Chinese fishermen who worked in and around San Francisco Bay.
Their efforts to supply the needs of a young city helped establish one
of the area’s most important industries and traditions.
It’s proper to have some Chinese American history on the California landscape because Chinese Americans played a major role in the West, not just building the railroads but also in mining, farming, business, personal service, heavy construction, and as this marker tells, fishing. Indeed, in the early 1880s Chinese Americans made up 50 percent of all fishing crews in the Bay area. But this marker tells only half the story.
During most of the twentieth century, the beach was not called China Beach but Phelan Beach.1 That’s because whites expelled Chinese people from the beach and from the fishing industry in the 1890s. In 1880, California passed “An Act Relating to Fishing in the Waters of this State”: “All aliens incapable of becoming electors of this state are hereby prohibited from fishing, or taking any fish, lobster, shrimps, or shell fish of any kind, for the purpose of selling, or giving to another person to sell...” Conveniently, only Chinese were aliens not eligible to vote. Courts declared the bill unconstitutional under the 14th Amendment, but the legislature continued to pass similar measures until the end of the century. California’s senators got Congress to pass the Chinese Exclusion Act in 1882, which cut Chinese immigration from 39,500 in 1882 to just ten persons five years later. Meanwhile white fishermen resorted to extralegal strong-arm tactics. By 1890 only 20 percent of the fishing community were Chinese, and their numbers continued to dwindle the rest of the century.
 
Calling China Beach Phelan Beach was ironically appropriate because James Phelan, three-term mayor of San Francisco at the end of the century, argued for excluding all Asians from the United States. As mayor, he allowed a blockade and later a quarantine of Chinatown; as U.S. Senator from California, 1915-21, he supported laws keeping Japanese from owning land in the state. This poster comes from his re-election campaign in 1920.
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“By 1893, riots and boycotts in San Francisco and the farming districts of California created conditions approximating civil war,” according to a 1997 exhibit at the Autry Museum in Los Angeles. White thuggery forced many Chinese Americans back to Chinatowns for protection. Prejudice against Chinese Americans ran so high that San Francisco’s public schools admitted African Americans to desegregated schools in 1899 and Native Americans in 1921, but kept Chinese Americans out until 1929.
That Chinese Americans would note on the landscape their success in fishing but not their exclusion from it is not surprising. While doing research for my book The Mississippi Chinese, I found that some young Chinese Mississippians knew only vaguely that whites had until recently kept them out of white public schools and other institutions. Their parents had never told them, perhaps feeling it would only disempower their children to know that dominant whites had oppressed them. Nor is this a uniquely Chinese trait: the introductory essay “In What Ways Were We Warped?” tells how working-class white families often do not inform their children of the trials they faced. African Americans in the 1990s expressed regret to family historian Edward Ball that the survivors of slavery didn’t tell their “children things they should have told them.” Shame may also be a factor—a group’s sense that its members must have done something to cause the powers that be to oppose them so strongly.
Some might argue to leave the China Beach marker as it is—let bygones be bygones. But all too often, all across America, historic sites emphasize only the good parts of our past. Surely historian Paul Gagnon is correct to say, “We do not need a bodyguard of lies. We can afford to present ourselves in the totality of our acts.” Rather than leaving out the bad parts, as this marker does, hoping that anti-Chinese sentiments will never recur, San Franciscans could engage in a civic dialogue to formally declare the beach China Beach. Thus they would dishonor rather than continue to honor the anti-Chinese sentiments exemplified in Mayor Phelan’s career.2
1. In about 1983 the National Park Service, which owns the site, reverted to “China Beach.” By 1998 some San Franciscans knew it only as Phelan Beach while others knew it only as China Beach.
2. Robert F. Heizer and Alan F. Almquist, The Other Californians (Berkeley: U. of CA Press, 1971), 170–71; Jack Chen, The Chinese of America (San Francisco: Harper and Row, 1980), 97–101; Arthur F. McEvoy, The Fisherman’s Problem (Cambridge: Cambridge UP, 1986), 75–103; AskAsia, “Linking the Past to Present: Asian Americans Then and Now,” www.askasia.org/frclasrm/readings/r000192.htm; Autry Museum exhibit, 10/97; Hyung-Chan Kim, ed., Dictionary of Asian-American History (Westport, CT: Greenwood, 1986), 452; Franklin Odo, In Movement (Los Angeles: Visual Communications, 1977), 39; James D. Hart, A Companion to California (Berkeley: U of CA Press, 1987), 94, 384; Tomas Almaquer, Racial Fault Lines (Berkeley: U of CA Press, 1994), 163; Nancy Wey, “Chinese Americans in California,” in Five Views (Sacramento: California Office of Historic Preservation, 1988), 103–58; Loewen, The Mississippi Chinese: Between Black and White (Prospect Heights, IL: Waveland Press, 1988); Edward Ball, Slaves in the Family (NY: Farrar, Straus and Giroux, 1998), 18; Paul Gagnon, Democracy’s Untold Story (DC: American Federation of Teachers, 1987), 19.

6. Killing a Man is Not News

CALIFORNIA Downieville

Downieville, a small town in the Sierra Mountains, is one of two places in California, so far as I know, to have historical markers about lynchings. In 1996 E Clampus Vitas, an organization in the western states whose major function seems to be to mark historic places, put this plaque on the Craycroft Building near the site of the Jersey Bridge in Downieville:
IN MEMORY OF JUANITA
The Spanish woman also known as Josefa, was hung off the Jersey Bridge, July 5, 1851, a short distance downstream from this spot, for the murder of Frederick Alexander Augustus Cannon.
 
Cannon and his friends were celebrating Independence Day
and after closing of the saloons they passed Jose and Josefa’s cabin.
He broke the door down. However, history did not tell what happened.
The next morning he came back, supposedly to apologize.
An argument ensued and Josefa stabbed Cannon fatally in the heart.
 
A mob trial was held and she was sentenced to death.
Josefa climbed the scaffold without the least trepidation and placed
the rope around her own neck. Her last words were,
“I would do the same again, if I was so provoked.
In Women of the Sierra Anne Seagraves includes an entry on the person she calls “First White Woman Lynched in California”: “Juanita (no last name was ever recorded) was considered attractive, with long, lustrous dark hair; delicate features; and passionate black eyes.... She lived with her lover in a small cabin, and although many men sought her favors, Juanita was content with her man, José.” In the early morning hours on the day after Independence Day in 1851, drunken revelers “went down the streets breaking open the doors of houses,” in Seagraves’s words. Jack Cannon was one of these, a big man, popular with his fellows, something of a camp rowdy. He broke into Juanita’s house, and she asked him to leave her alone. He called her a prostitute; she swore back at him. A few hours later he returned, perhaps to apologize, perhaps to continue his pursuit. Jose asked him to have his door repaired. Cannon began once more “to insult both Juanita and Jose. The argument became louder, and a crowd began to form.” What happened next is not clear: either Cannon lunged at her or Juanita simply exploded. In any event she grabbed a bowie knife and plunged it “into Cannon’s chest, instantly killing him. The stunned spectators, realizing their friend was dead, started yelling ‘Lynch them!’”
The mob dragged Juanita to the main plaza of Downieville and placed Cannon’s body, with its ugly wound, nearby. Without delay the crowd set up a mock trial. It was so unfair that when the young man chosen as defense attorney actually defended Juanita, the mob threw him off the barrel he stood on, broke his glasses, and kicked and beat him. The jury found her guilty and sentenced her to hang within the hour. She tossed her straw hat to a spectator in the crowd, and in Seagraves’s words, her “thick dark hair came cascading down around her slender shoulders. She took the noose in her own hands and placed it around her neck.” Within seconds of her hanging Juanita was dead.
According to Seagraves, “this infamous miscarriage of justice was heard around the world,” with newspapers in Europe commenting on American “border justice.” Surely this ugly event deserves a marker. But we must pause a moment and analyze what the hanging and the marker teach us about gender in the United States. Seagraves makes ironic use of Independence Day: “The speeches about equality and liberty for all obviously were not meant to include women, especially of the Mexican race.” Juanita’s status as a Mexican indeed made her vulnerable. White Americans have consistently singled out people of color as lynching victims, beyond the protection of the law. Many other lynchings occurred in California in the 19th century, disproportionately of Mexican Americans and Chinese Americans. But Juanita’s status as a woman did not contribute to her death. The only other marker on lynching in California makes this evident: in Placerville, a city formerly called “Hangtown” because of its many lynchings, a state historical marker states, “In the days of 1849, when this city was called Hangtown, vigilantes executed many men for various crimes.”
Across America, while four of every five lynching victims have been nonwhite, fewer than one in ten has been female.1 Those numbers suggest that female status is quite different from nonwhite status. Seagraves implies this when she converts Juanita from “of the Mexican race” to “First White Woman Lynched in California” in her title, because to lynch a white or a woman is unusual and sensational. Because African Americans, Mexican Americans, and Chinese Americans have been lynched in numbers far greater than their proportion in the population, social scientists infer (correctly) that these groups have historically had lower status. Because males have been lynched in numbers far greater than their proportion in the population, should we infer that men have historically had lower status?2
The answer, surprisingly, is yes, we should, in certain ways. This is surprising because the women’s movement of the 1970s correctly taught our society that women have been disadvantaged in politics, most occupations, and many different parts of our culture. The lack of a men’s movement has kept us from seeing that men have been disadvantaged in other areas of our culture. One disadvantage has to do with violent death. Not just in frontier California but even today, men are four times more likely than women to be murdered. Men are also 2.6 times as likely to die from accidents. Even nature seems to have it in for men: lightning is seven times as likely to strike men as women! Nature of course doesn’t check sex before sending a bolt; men are more likely to be exposed to storms. Our culture tells men it’s not manly to take shelter or drive sedately on the one hand, and our occupational structure steers men toward dangerous all-weather jobs like telephone lineman and truck driver on the other. Either way the culture has been and still is careless of male lives—most obviously in requiring only men to register for the draft. Consistent with this devaluation, men seek medical care later and less often than women suffering from similar ailments, and are also 4.3 times as likely as women to kill themselves.
Thus although the text of “In Memory of Juanita” is accurate, in a sense the plaque’s very existence implies that women’s lives are more precious than men’s. Lynchings of men, even white men, go unremarked on the American landscape because the victims were male. Newspapers follow this rule every day. Thus wire service reports in the 1990s about “ethnic cleansing” in the Balkans frequently emphasized that “women and children” were among the slain. Although male deaths were usually more numerous, they went unremarked so journalists could tap into the outrage that readers are supposed to feel when they learn that these perpetrators would stoop to kill women and children. Killing men is more common and more morally acceptable. In short, killing men is not news. Killing women is.
To single out the lynching of a woman for remarks on a plaque presents a double irony. The first involves women: only fifteen out of almost one thousand California state historical markers treat women. This is because California’s social structure has not allowed women to play an equal part, and California’s historical markers do not recognize many women who nevertheless did make history. This Downieville marker hardly makes up for those omissions.
The second irony involves men. Seagraves calls Juanita’s hanging “one of the most shocking crimes in California history,” but California had at least 59 lynchings between 1875 and 1935, and many more before 1875, almost all of men. None is noted on the landscape, though each was just as shocking in its way as Juanita’s. This Downieville marker hardly makes up for those omissions, either.
The literal unremarkability of violence against men points to how unconscious these gender differences are. They lie deep in our mores, and in this sense “discrimination” is a misleading term to apply to them. Looming behind all these complementary gender disabilities is not a patriarch or a matriarch but a culture, elements of which need to be changed to benefit men as well as women.3
 
Entry 42 and 30 tell how some states are even worse than California about leaving women off the American landscape.
1. This ratio is visible in Montgomery, AL, were Maya Lin’s famous Civil Rights Memorial lists “Forty Lives for Freedom”—civil rights martyrs killed by white supremacists. All are male except Viola Liuzzo, killed by Ku Klux Klansmen after the 1965 Selma to Montgomery march, and the four little girls killed in the Sixteenth Street Baptist Church bombing in Birmingham.
2. Most lynchers have been white males who disproportionately victimize people in their racial/ethnic outgroup and their sexual ingroup.
3. Anne Seagraves, Women of the Sierra (Lakeport, CA: WESANNE, 1990), 29 - 31; James D. Hart, A Companion to CA (Berkeley: U. of CA Press, 1987), 292; Arthur F. Raper, The Tragedy of Lynching (Montclair, NJ: Patterson Smith, 1969), 481; Kenneth D. Kochanek and Bettie L. Hudson, “Advance Report of Final Mortality Statistics, 1992” (Hyattsville, MD: National Center for Health Statistics, Monthly Vital Statistics Report, 43 no. 6 supplement, 12/8/94), 1 - 4, 8 - 10; Roy U. Schenk, “Statement to the Wisconsin Supreme Court...,” Transitions 13 no. 1 (1/93): 13 - 14; Burlington (VT) Free Press (AP), 11/14/88.

7. Don’t “Discover” ‘Til You See The Eyes of The Whites!

OREGON La Grande

A marker on Interstate 84 just south of La Grande tells how, in 1811: “The Wilson Price Hunt Astoria Expedition, after failing to find a route through Snake River Canyon, obtained the guidance of a Shoshone Indian and discovered the route over the Blue Mountains.” Getting a Shoshone guide made sense—the Blue Mountains were their home after all, so the Shoshones knew their way over them. But even though this marker says that a Native American showed European Americans the way, it still credits the Wilson Price Hunt Astoria Expedition with “discovering the route.”
Bodies of water seem particularly vulnerable to “discovery.” In Iowa, Jean Nicolet “discovered” Okamanpadu Lake according to a marker, which does not explain how the lake got its obviously Indian name. A plaque in Louisiana marks the death of Hernando de Soto, who “was buried in the Mississippi River, which he discovered.” The Spaniards buried their leader furtively in the river because of the presence of earlier discoverers—American Indians whom de Soto had antagonized—lest they notice and take advantage of the now leaderless men.
Ironically, de Soto wasn’t even the first white man to see the Mississippi. Henry R. Schoolcraft wasn’t the first white to “discover” its origin either, but you can’t tell that from the Minnesota marker that credits him unless you read carefully. “The long search [for the source of the Mississippi] came to a close with the discovery of Lake Itasca by Henry Rowe Schoolcraft in 1832,” according to the marker. Then the marker ends by admitting that Schoolcraft had merely rechristened Lac la Biche, Lake of the Elk, as “it was known to Indians and traders,” to Itasca, a name he made up.
Other lakes get similar treatment. According to Michigan markers, whites discovered Lake Michigan, Lake St. Clair, and Lake Superior. Lake Erie gets a more complex marker: “Named for the Erie Indians, this was the last of the Great Lakes discovered by white men...” Actually, none of them was discovered by white men, but this marker at least admits that Native Americans existed and implies they knew of Lake Erie.
This discovery problem begins with 1492, of course. All across America, plaques commemorate Christopher Columbus, “discoverer of America.” Historians and educators denounced “discovered” rather thoroughly during 1992, the Columbus Quincentenary. Some commentators denounced the denunciations as mere exercises in political correctness. When historical markers emphasize explorers like Jean Nicolet just because they were white however, they offend people of color. Worse is their effect on whites, who are invited to infer that only when whites see a place has humankind discovered it. The practice literally dehumanizes Native Americans. The plaque at Schroeppel, New York, even has a European discovering people:
KUH-NA-TA-HA
Indian fishing village 1654, known to the Indians as “Place of Tall
Pines.” Discovered by Father Le Moyne.
The Portuguese Explorers Monument in Newport, Rhode Island, put up in 1988, makes the most grandiose discovery claim of all: it celebrates “the discovery by the Portuguese of two thirds of the world.”
Inspired by such examples, Adam Nordwall, an Ojibwe, led a group of Native Americans to Rome in 1973 and “discovered” Italy! They demanded an audience with the Pope and otherwise comported themselves as explorers are wont to do. So far as I know however, no plaque marks the spot at the Rome airport where they first set foot on Italian soil.
A museum in Capetown, South Africa, changed its account for Dr. David Livingston from “discovered Victoria Falls in 1855” to “visited Victoria Falls in 1855.” Immediately we realize that “visited” is accurate while “discovered” was Eurocentric. Eurocentrism similarly distorts all the “discover” markers in the United States.1
 
Entry 1 tells how Native Americans are removing from the American landscape some of the names European “discoverers” have imposed. Entries 2.1, 24, 35, 68, and 93 lament other Eurocentric terms on markers and monuments across America.
 
1. “Indians Claim Italy By Right of Discovery,” NY Times, 9/24/73; Loewen, The Truth About Columbus (NY: New Press, 1992), 5; Peter Hulme, Colonial Encounters (London: Methuen, 1986), 1.

8. No Communists Here!

WASHINGTON Cowlitz County

In the last half of the 1800s and the first three decades of the 1900s, many socialists, anarchists, and communists were among the Europeans coming to the United States. Fleeing persecution in Europe, they sought better opportunities here. After they became citizens, these people elected socialist mayors and legislators, most prominently the long-term mayor of Milwaukee. They set up self-help organizations and cooperative stores to get better prices from wholesalers and pass the savings on to their members. They also influenced to some degree the social programs of both political parties.
Today the memory of this history of left-wing politics is almost invisible. Among all immigrant groups, Finns were probably the most radical.1 “Finn Hall,” a historical marker in Cowlitz County in southwest Washington, shows the cover-up in action. The association that built Finn Hall was communist; its official name translated as “Comrades Society.” But the Washington state historical marker disguises this:
FINN HALL
In 1916 Finnish immigrants constructed a hall near the site under the name of a literary association (Kirjallisuus Seura), forming a lending library. Although they brought their diet, language, and saunas with them, some old country beliefs were left behind. These people found it necessary to meet where they could study the social customs of their new country, challenge and question partisan politics, and reflect on new technological insights. At this cultural center were held language classes, meetings, athletic activities, wedding dances, funerals, and programs with oratory, drama, poetry, vocal and instrumental music. Steaming kettles of coffee and the warmth of dignified waltzes, pulsating polkas, and schottisches brought togetherness to these rugged individualists. Life to them was involvement.
The state put up this marker in October 1976. Writing twenty years later about her role, Helmi Kortes-Erkkila, who chaired the local marker committee, admitted that leaving out the name of the organization in English “was a factual omission.” Members did not think saying “Comrades Society” would be prudent in 1976, when the United States was locked in struggle with the Soviet Union. “Memories of the McCarthy years were still influencing the sons and daughters of the former sympathizers of Socialists, Communists, and iww’s,” Kortes-Erkkila explained, “so we resorted to the popular and non-controversial term that was inscribed on the historical marker.”
Passionate political debates and intellectual controversies raged in this hall, especially in its early years when the Woodrow Wilson administration had declared war on all leftists. “Life to them was involvement”—well, yes. But involvement in what? In a communist society in rural southwest Washington? No one would envision that without help, and this historical marker hardly provides the necessary assistance.2
Entry 51 is another example of how Historic sites mystify left-wing politics all across America. So is the next entry.
1. In 1915, Finns helped organize the Nonpartisan League in North Dakota, which dominated state government by 1918. In 1919 Finns helped form the Farmer-Labor Party, which was strong in Washington, Montana, and South Dakota; a related group won the governorship in Minnesota in the 1920s.
2. Helmi Kortes-Erkkila, “The Finn Hall Historical Marker” (Vancouver, WA: typescript, 1996).
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9. Using Nationalism to Redefine a Troublesome Statue

WASHINGTON Centralia

In Washington Park (see 82), the town square of Centralia, stands a statue that looks like all the other “doughboys”—lone infantrymen in helmets that honor World War I soldiers all across America. The American Legion put it up in 1924. On the front it reads:
THE SENTINEL
It was their destiny—rather it was their duty—the highest of us is but a sentry at his post.
In 1993, Centralia added a “Freedom Walk” to connect the statue with the street. Next to the walk a granite tablet declares the walk to be a memorial to the men and women who died in all American wars since World War I. It looks as if Centralia intended “The Sentinel” to take care of World War I and the “Freedom Walk” and granite tablet to memorialize World War II, Korea, Vietnam, and our smaller interventions.
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Closer inspection reveals that “The Sentinel” has nothing to do with World War I, however. On its backside are the words: “To the memory of Ben Casagranda, Warren O. Grimm, Earnest Dale Hubbard, Arthur McElfresh, slain on the streets of Centralia, Washington, Armistice Day, Nov. 11, 1919, while on peaceful parade wearing the uniform of the country they loyally and faithfully served.” But why would anyone be slain “while on peaceful parade”? The answer is simple: that isn’t what happened.
On Armistice Day, November 11, 1919, a year after the end of World War I, Centralia witnessed probably the most tragic event in its history. An armed confrontation between members of the American Legion and the Industrial Workers of the World—the iww or “Wobblies”—ended with victims killed on both sides. Anti-labor writers dubbed the affair “the Centralia Massacre” and used it to destroy support for the iww throughout the Northwest.
The iww was a militant left-wing union especially strong in the West among loggers and miners. The American Legion had formed only recently, started by Teddy Roosevelt Jr. and by United States officers in Western Europe alarmed by growing support for leftist ideas among our victorious troops. Composed of veterans, its purpose according to its constitution was “to maintain law and order” and “to foster and perpetuate a 100 percent Americanism.” Its ideology also matched the outburst of nativism and anticommunism whipped up by the Woodrow Wilson administration. Within months it had a million members.
In 1918 an anti-Wobbly mob had burned down the Wobbly union hall and beaten up union members. According to historian Robert Weyeneth, in 1919 “Centralia’s American Legion post scheduled an Armistice Day parade with an unusual agenda: destruction of the [new] local IWW hall. The plan was an open secret in town for several weeks, but unbeknownst to Legion organizers, the IWW decided not to be intimidated and to defend the hall when attacked.” Warren Grimm was a Centralia Legionnaire who had recently helped invade Siberia with the U.S. Army (see 78) and therefore considered himself an expert on Communism. He called the Wobblies “the American Bolsheviki” and led the Legion against them. As the parade neared the hall, some Legionnaires rushed the building. Armed Wobblies opened fire from inside as well as from an adjacent boardinghouse and nearby hilltop. The gunfire killed Grimm, Casagranda, and McElfresh and wounded almost a dozen others, but did not drive off the Legion, who broke into the building. The Wobblies scattered, and the Legion dragged the contents of the hall into the street and set them on fire. Wesley Everest, an IWW organizer, fled north towards the Skookumchuck River. Cornered at the river, he shot and killed Earnest Dale Hubbard, one of his pursuers. Everest was captured, beaten, and put in jail. Some IWW members may also have been killed during the day; historians differ.
That evening a mob dragged Everest from the city jail and took him to the edge of town. There they may have cut off his testicles, then his penis.1 The men hanged him from a bridge and then shot him.
Eleven union members were tried for killing the Legionnaires. Eight were convicted and served prison terms of more than ten years. Some jurors later filed an affidavit saying they had wrongly convicted the men, believing that if they did not sentence them to prison, Legionnaires were likely to kill them in the streets. No one was ever charged with lynching Wesley Everest.
For decades the union was ignored on the Centralia landscape. Other than Everest’s tombstone in a paupers’ cemetery at the edge of town, nothing told the IWW’s side of the story. In 1990 historian Weyeneth went to Centralia to see how the town remembered the 1919 event. He found silence. The nearby county historical museum had nothing about it. No plaques marked the sites of either IWW hall or Everest’s lynching. After some difficulty Weyeneth got “The Sentinel” and Wesley Everest’s grave listed in the National Register of Historic Places, deliberately choosing one site from each side. Nominating them spurred useful civic discussion within Centralia and led to coverage by the Associated Press and National Public Radio in 1991.
The next year a project taking a pro-labor view of the Armistice Day confrontation was a statewide winner of “History Day,” a national contest for high school students. The winning student received a marble marker, which she proposed to give to the city for placement next to “The Sentinel.” The marker featured a noose and a hammer and a long text suggesting “Incidents like the Centralia Massacre” helped bring about “an eight-hour day, Social Security, Worker’s Compensation, Occupational Health and Safety, and job security.”
Months of controversy followed. Residents pointed out inaccuracies in the student’s text. The local newspaper suggested a plaque “carefully and diplomatically worded, limited to known facts only.” Instead the town resorted to bland nationalism and added the “Freedom Walk” and granite tablet. Implicitly these additions conflated “The Sentinel” with conventional World War I doughboys, despite the words to the contrary on its base. Clearly in 1993 Centralia was still not ready to address the events of eight decades earlier.
The sites of many important events in labor history are well marked across the United States, especially by the United Mine Workers of America. In Ludlow, Colorado, the UMWA put up an inspiring monument to the thirteen children and seven adults killed there on April 20, 1914, when company police and the Colorado National Guard burned the striking miners’ camp. Michigan has accurate historical markers for the General Motors sit-down strike of 1936 - 37. Two plaques mark the 1911 Triangle Shirtwaist fire that killed 146 women in New York City, and there is an annual remembrance at the site. Indeed, disasters of all kinds, but especially mine fires and explosions, are memorialized all across America.
The Centralia event is more problematic. Afterward, Woodrow Wilson’s attorney general, A. Mitchell Palmer, led raids and legal attacks that broke the back of the iww nationally. Today it exists only as a shell, hardly strong enough to underwrite a historical marker let alone win the public support needed to put it up. The rest of the labor movement might not want to honor such a left-wing union. And labor did draw the first blood that Armistice Day.
What difference does it make that Centralia took the easy way out? Why not simply forget about it all, as some of Robert Weyeneth’s interviewees suggested ? A labor historian described how a recent union march in Centralia, unconnected with the Armistice Day events, met a very different reception than in nearby towns. “While neighboring towns had been warm and friendly... in Centralia the marchers were greeted by plain clothes police and warnings to get off the main street.” Weyeneth concluded, “The new Freedom Walk suggests that the journey toward historical reconciliation remains unfinished.” Resorting to nationalism to camouflage a one-sided statue is no substitute for honest history on the landscape and in the minds of the town.
On December 14, 1997, the owner of a Centralia antiques mall dedicated a dramatic mural about the Armistice Day confrontation that showed Wesley Everest rising from his grave. This work by New Jersey artist Mike Alewitz provoked condemnation from the American Legion’s national convention. Ironically, some iww members outside Centralia also attacked the mural at first. Within Centralia, Alewitz’s project did spur the formation of a Centralia a Union Mural Project Committee and may yet prompt a civic dialogue that could result in historical accuracy, memory recovery, and even reconciliation.2
1. Writers differ: John M. Barry says they did; Tom Copeland says they didn’t.
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10. What We Know And What We Don’t Know About Rock Art

NEVADA Hickison Summit

On U.S. 50, 24 miles east of Austin, a historical marker titled “Hickison Summit” tells about nearby petroglyphs left by prehistoric people: “About one mile northwest lies a natural pass between two buttes which, prehistorically, the aborigines may have used as a site of ambushing migratory deer herds. Three petroglyph panels are located in this pass.” Unfortunately, the marker then tells us what the petroglyphs mean: “Petroglyphs suggest magical or ritual connections with hunting activities. They were added seasonally by the group’s religious leader, or shaman, as omens to insure a successful hunt.”
Actually, no one really knows what the petroglyphs mean. In the 1960s many archaeologists believed that petroglyphs were done to “insure a successful hunt,” but few believe it now. Today most think that the art was created by shamans who were high on hallucinogenic drugs rather than tribal leaders before a hunt. But there isn’t much evidence to support either hypothesis.
Although no tribe in the area today preserves a tradition of interpreting Nevada rock art, contemporary Native American names for these petroglyph sites do include “shaman’s cache,” “shaman’s spirit helper place,” and the like. Another bit of evidence comes from cultures in South Africa. There, drugs do cause people to “see” forms that have some commonalities with the images in some Nevada petroglyphs. On the other hand Robert Bednarik, petroglyph expert from Australia, points out that rock art there, which also has images that resemble some similarities to the images in Nevada, is “conspicuously non-shamanistic.” Indeed, “the Hickison petroglyphs,” according to Nevada historian Ron Powers, “are mostly female genitalia.”
In The Imprint of Man: Rock Art of the North American Indians, Campbell Grant sums up what he calls “a number of plausible explanations.” In addition to the hunting and hallucinogenic hypotheses, Grant suggests that petroglyphs may be clan symbols (“signatures” of, for example, the turtle clan), images connected with religious rituals or puberty and fertility rites, drawings of constellations, references to important events, maps to mark hunting areas, or simple doodling by children or adults. To this list I would add that they just may be “art”!
Archaeology is a difficult undertaking. Archaeologists must understand not only a society’s technology, occupations, and kinship, but also its religious beliefs, architecture, the botany of the plants it used, even its disease history. Indeed, archaeologists must be experts on every aspect of the society they study—but they can’t be. Moreover, they face the task of trying to reconstruct all the foregoing from the faintest evidence—those few objects that have survived for hundreds or thousands of years. On top of that, since most ideas come into a culture from other cultures, archaeologists need to be experts on more than one society.
 
Are these Hickison petroglyphs signatures (“Kilroy was here!”)? religious images? constellations? history? symbols of ownership? doodling? art?
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The result is that archaeologists often end up projecting ideas from our culture onto the largely blank slate of the distant past, and this is why new hypotheses sweep the field from time to time. Rock art is particularly hard to decipher; Charles Lock concludes in “Petroglyphs In and Out of Perspective” that he is “less than enthusiastic about the possibility of learning anything about petroglyphs, even with the help of the most advanced technology.”
This Hickison marker is not only out of favor with current thinking in archaeology, then, it is also far too sure of itself. Archaeologists cannot now date petroglyphs within several thousand years—radiocarbon dating doesn’t work because organic material is the first to weather off the rocks. Nevertheless, this marker author knows the rock paintings were “added seasonally” ! A more accurate marker would present a summary of the changing interpretations of petroglyphs. Thus it would teach visitors to be skeptical of all archaeological hypotheses—whether of the Bering Strait crossing, the “disappearance” of “the Anasazi” (14), or the purpose of petroglyphs. Unfortunately, historic sites routinely present a single view of the past, with no room for ambiguity about the nature of the event itself or uncertainty over the evidence for differing views of it.1
1. Sue Ann Monteleone, “Who Made NV Rock Art? and When? That is What Rock Art Specialists are Trying to Find Out,” N V State Museum Newsletter 25 no. 2 (1997): 2; David S. Whitley, “Shamanism and Rock Art in Far Western North America,” Cambridge Archaeological Journal 2 no. 1 (1992): 91; Robert Bednarik, “On Neuropsychology and Shamanism in Rock Art,” Current Anthropology 31 no. 1 (2/90): 77 - 79; cf. J. D. Lewis-Williams and Thomas A. Dowson, “Reply,” Ibid: 80 - 83; Ron Powers, conversation, 1/99; Campbell Grant, The Imprint of Man: Rock Art of the North American Indians (Cambridge: Cambridge UP, 1983), 13 - 14; Charles Lock, “Petroglyphs in and out of Perspective,” Semiotica 100 no. 2/4 (1994): 405; Robert F. Heizer and Martin A. Baumhoff, Prehistoric Rock Art of NV and Eastern CA (Berkeley: U. of CA Press, 1962), 225.
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11. Don’t Criticize Big Brother

NEVADA Nye County

At the junction of U.S. 95 and the road to Mercury, Nevada, is the historical marker for the “Nevada Test Site”—surety after Las Vegas, one of Nevada’s most famous places. The site certainly merits a marker: larger than Rhode Island, it is surrounded by additional land larger than Connecticut “withdrawn from the public domain,” as its Web site euphemistically puts it. Moreover, what happened here had worldwide significance.
The marker’s text, written in 1971, seems straightforward enough:
NEVADA TEST SITE
Testing of weapons for defense and for peaceful uses of nuclear explosives is conducted here. The nation’s principal nuclear explosives testing laboratory is located within this 1, 350-square-mile, geologically complex area in the isolated valleys of Jackass, Yucca, and Frenchman Flats. Selected as on-continent test site in 1950, the first test took place on Frenchman Flat in January, 1951.
Unfortunately this text conceals far more than it reveals. Its matter-of-fact tone is not appropriate for such a controversial site. No one would infer from this marker that nuclear tests detonated here gave leukemia to scores of residents in towns like St. George and Cedar City, Utah, and may be causing the premature deaths from cancer of hundreds more. No one could guess that among the places hit hardest by radiation from this site would be counties in the Midwest and upstate New York. No one would accuse the United States government of knowing about these dangers before the first 1951 test and taking care to protect its own workers at nuclear laboratories while neglecting to even measure carefully the radiation dangers to citizens living downwind of the tests. And no one would imagine that all the while, the government was conducting a disinformation campaign to reassure westerners that there was no danger when it knew better. As Richard Lamm, former governor of Colorado, and Michael McCarthy summarized in 1982, “the government acted recklessly and carelessly... [and then] covered up news of rising cancer rates in desert towns. When finally confronted with evidence that its tests were responsible, it began a long litany of denial.”
 
The marker also fails to convey what the explosions were like. Political scientist Howard Ball describes the above-ground blasts as seen in southern Utah: “Days sometimes began with bright white early-morning atomic explosions, followed by brownish-purple mushroom clouds...; and children played in the grey radioactive dust as they would in snow.” This aerial photo shows subsidence craters from some of the 828 below-ground blasts, one of which, the Sedan crater, is nearly a quarter-mile wide and 320 feet deep and has been declared a national historic site.
Below-ground explosions continued through September 1991.
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From 1951 to 1962, 126 atmospheric “tests” of atomic “devices” took place at the Nevada site in addition to 828 below-ground blasts. More than forty of the underground tests vented radioactivity into the atmosphere, sometimes creating large mushroom clouds. Political scientist Howard Ball describes the scene: “Days sometimes began with bright white early-morning atomic explosions, followed by brownish-purple mushroom clouds...; and children played in the grey radioactive dust as they would in snow.” The explosions were seen and heard in San Diego, San Francisco, and southern Idaho; near the site they knocked people off their feet.
In 1953 sheep ranchers in the area lost thousands of their animals to the blasts. Elevated levels of strontium 90, a radioactive isotope from the fallout, began showing up across the United States and became a political issue in the 1956 presidential campaign. Protestors demonstrated at the site beginning in 1957, and in 1964 the Wall Street Journal reported that the fallout from Nevada had reached Canada. Thus this 1971 marker, whose content might have been written by the Atomic Energy Commission itself, amounts to a whitewash on the federal government’s behalf. Its tone is anachronistic—a product of 1950s thinking when most Americans trusted the government and distrusted its critics. Such views lasted longer in Nevada and Utah, but by 1973 the Watergate scandal and continuing Vietnam quagmire would make this mindset passe even in the Great Basin.
Nevada marker officials are hardly alone in their reluctance to criticize government. Across the United States virtually no historical marker criticizes any government—federal, state, or local—for any act since Reconstruction. Curiously, in this way markers resemble high school American history textbooks, which also make the government, especially the federal government, their biggest hero.
“Curiously” because from newspaper editorials to radio talk shows, post-Watergate Americans make something of a national pastime out of criticizing their governments—but not on markers or in textbooks. Some acts of criticism took place at this Nevada test site—and the marker needs updating to tell about them as well. It never hints that thousands of protesters have been arrested there over the years—over a thousand on single days in 1988 and 1989—while demonstrating for peace and against nuclear testing. Nor has Nevada revised the plaque to include the major lawsuit, Allen v. U.S., that residents of southern Nevada and southwest Utah, harmed by radiation, filed in 1979, won in U.S. District Court in 1984, and then lost on appeal three years later.
Why did the Atomic Energy Commission test in Nevada? Because it was cheaper and easier than testing in the Pacific.1 For the same reason, the AEC also often detonated at ground level, while Great Britain always used a tower, balloons, or airdrops in its Australian tests to minimize fallout. What American taxpayers saved in logistics, however, may cost much more in health care expenses and premature deaths. In 1997, officials in Western states were still asking for federal money to study “the incidence of thyroid cancers” resulting from the Nevada explosions, quoting Utah’s Senator Bob Bennett. In all, according to Tomas Clark of the Seattle Times, the Nevada test site released 148 times as much radiation as the Chernobyl disaster in the Soviet Union. Rebecca Solnit tells how protesters in Kazakhstan, where the Soviet Union tested its bombs, named themselves the Nevada-Semipalatinsk Antinuclear Movement in solidarity with the protesters in Nevada. In Kazakhstan “more than a million people signed the Nevada-Semipalatinsk statement opposing nuclear testing,” Kazakhstan’s miners threatened to strike, and tens of thousands of Kazakhs demonstrated in October 1989, Solnit writes. Partly in response, the USSR stopped testing later that month and declared a unilateral moratorium on further explosions. President George Bush followed suit two years later with a temporary halt, since extended by his successor but without the force of law of the Soviet shutdown.
Perhaps American protesters never had a chance for equal success. Keeping the public uninformed and misinformed prevented American citizens from making educated choices over how much to test, where to test, and even whether to test at all. In a democracy the people are supposed to learn about and think over such weighty matters. The bland text on this marker hampers that process by treating citizens as children who need to be shielded from all the historical issues related to the site. Governments are bigger and older than any citizen to be sure, but citizens should not be fooled into treating them like godlike parents. Like children, governments make mistakes and must be corrected. Nevada deserves credit for venturing to treat a recent, important, and controversial topic, but its reluctance to criticize the government only continues on the landscape the cover-up that the Atomic Energy Commission started in the 1950s.2
1. Testing in the Pacific was not without hazard to Pacific islanders and to the planet.
2. http://www.em.doe.gov/em94/swnts.html 6/98; http://www.nv.doe.gov/nts/ 11/98; Lorna Arnold, “The Elements of Controversy Project: A Review,” Public Historian 18 no. 1 (winter 1996), 41; Tomas Clark, “50 Years from Trinity; Part 2: Nevada Test Site,” http://www.seatimes.com/6/98; Howard Ball, Justice Downwind (NY: Oxford UP, 1986), 69 - 70, 77, 90, 128, 144, 155 - 61, 197; Richard D. Lamm and Michael McCarthy, The Angry West (Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1982.), 154 - 56; Rebecca Solnit, Savage Dreams (San Francisco: Sierra Club Books, 1994), 26, 97, 105, 119; Congressional Record, 9/11/97, online, 59, 110.