About the authors

Gavin Thomas has spent much of his life trying to be somewhere else. He first visited Sri Lanka in 2001 and has been returning regularly ever since, as well as visiting some fifty other countries around the world, from Argentina to New Zealand, en route. He now works as a full-time travel writer, his enthusiasm for abroad undimmed despite various life-threatening on-the-road encounters which have so far included being chased by wild elephants, being shot by Mexican bandits and being forced to eat dangerously large quantities of airline catering. He is also the author of the Rough Guides to Dubai and Oman, and co-author of the Rough Guides to Myanmar, Cambodia, and Rajasthan, Delhi & Agra.

Sally McLaren first visited Sri Lanka in 2008 and in recent years was based in Colombo working on documentary films, studying Sinhala and learning how to cook spicy curries. A big fan of Sri Lankan art, design and architecture, she enjoys rambling around the island on local transport and exploring little-known places with fascinating histories. Sally is currently a Kyoto-based writer and researcher, and also a co-author of the Rough Guide to Japan.

Reader’s update

Thanks to all the readers who have taken the time to write in with comments and suggestions (and apologies if we’ve inadvertently omitted or misspelt anyone’s name):

Pippa Behr, Emma Boyle, Clive Collins, Christopher Craig, Meera Dattani, Jacob Devriese, Jane Ellis, Nathan Fieldsend, John Garratt, Teresa & Martin González, Gavin Goy, Kay & Fraser Hunter, Kaye Kent, Marc & Charlotte Lybol, Monica Mackaness, Tom Neill, Kennedy Newton, Andy Pearce, Peter Phillips, John Scott, Jax Tan, Frances Thompson, Clint Westwood, Lilamani Woolrych.

Acknowledgements

Gavin Thomas In Sri Lanka, I owe a massive debt of thanks as ever to Nimal de Silva (dsltours.com), who once again drove me all over the island with unfailing skill, patience, perseverance and good humour – the best companion any travel writer could hope for, and without whom this book would be infinitely poorer. Big thanks also to Mark Thamel, Tim Beltman, Henry Fitch, Nadeem Rajabdeen, Iran Karannagoda, Volker Bethke, Ashan Senaratne, Faiesz & Sue Samad, Sumane & Kanthi Bandara, Nilu Crowe, Nisa Pallegedara, Pasanna Welangoda, and Mohan in Jaffna. A big bouquet too for Emma Boyle for introductions in Colombo and an endless supply of information, ideas and inspiration.

At Rough Guides, a big shout out to my exemplary editor Georgia Stephens for keeping an entire cupboard’s worth of plates spinning effortlessly under the most trying circumstances; to Sally McLaren for gallantly stepping into the breach at such short notice; and to Ed Aves for all his work on previous editions of the book and long-term moral support – things won’t be the same without you. Also to Gehan de Silva Wijeyeratne, and to Mark Ellingham, without whom none of this would exist. And finally a huge hug for my long-suffering family, who once again kept the home fires burning during my absence: Allison, with whom I first discovered Sri Lanka; and Laura and Jamie, who I hope will one day discover it for themselves. This book is for you, with love.

Sally McLaren I firstly want to thank my many wonderful friends in Colombo, especially Chandani, Nishelli, Jennifer & Madhura, and Nalin, for their kindness and support. Much gratitude also to Emma Boyle for her generous insights and updates. I am forever grateful to the many kind and big-hearted Sri Lankans who went out of their way to help me, in particular, Upali in Polonnaruwa, Ajith and his crew in Tissa, Ruwan in Arugam Bay, Sandrine in Batti, Tharuka in Nilaveli, Ranjan in Anuradhapura and Rasi in Galle. Thanks to fellow Sri Lanka enthusiast Gavin and editor Georgia at Rough Guides. Many thanks to Yakko for accompanying me to the outer edges of the Cultural Triangle, and to Albie for continual love, support and good humour.