Sri Lanka is the most Westernized country in South Asia – superficially at least – and this, combined with the widespread use of English and the huge tourist industry, can often lure visitors into mistaking the island for something more familiar than it actually is. Scratch the surface, however, and examples of cultural difference can be found everywhere.
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They are all very rich, and for a thing that costs one shilling they willingly give five. Also they are never quiet, going here and there very quickly, and doing nothing. Very many are afraid of them, for suddenly they grow very angry, their faces become red, and they strike any one who is near with the closed hand.
From The Village in the Jungle, by Leonard Woolf
Sri Lankans place great emphasis on politeness and manners, as exemplified by the fabulously courteous staff at top-end hotels – raising your voice in a dispute is usually counterproductive and makes you look foolish and ill-bred. They are also very proud of their country – “Sri Lanka good?” is one of the questions most commonly asked of visitors – and tend to take a simple and unquestioning pride in their national achievements and (especially) their cricket team.
A few Western concepts have yet to make their way to the island. Nudity and toplessness are not permitted on any Sri Lankan beaches. And overt physical displays of affection in public are also frowned upon – Sri Lankan couples hide behind enormous umbrellas in the quiet corners of parks and botanical gardens.
You should eat and shake hands with people using your right hand. Men shouldn’t offer to shake a Sri Lankan woman’s hand unless she offers it herself. For advice on money and bargaining, see “Costs”.
All visitors to Buddhist and Hindu temples should be appropriately dressed. In Buddhist temples this means taking off shoes and headgear and covering your shoulders and legs. Beachwear is not appropriate and can cause offence. In large temples, the exact point at which you should take off shoes and hats is sometimes ambiguous; if in doubt, follow the locals. Finally, note that walking barefoot around temples can sometimes be more of a challenge than you might imagine when the tropical sun has heated the stone underfoot to oven-like temperatures – no one will mind if you keep your socks on.
You should never have yourself photographed (or take a selfie) posing with a Buddha image – that is, with your back to the image – and, needless to say, you should always behave appropriately towards such images. Three French tourists were given suspended jail sentences in 2012 for taking pictures of themselves kissing a Buddha statue in a temple. Two other traditional Buddhist observances that are only loosely followed in Sri Lanka: the rule about not pointing your feet at a Buddha image is not as widely followed as in, say, Thailand, though you occasionally see people sitting in front of Buddhas with their legs neatly tucked under them. Equally, the traditional Buddhist rule that you should only walk around stupas in a clockwise direction is not widely observed.
The same shoe and dress rules apply in Hindu temples, with a couple of twists. In some, non-Hindus aren’t permitted to enter the inner shrine; in others, men are required to take off their shirts before entering, and women are sometimes barred entirely.
In some temples (Buddhist and Hindu) you will be shown around by one of the resident monks or priests and expected to make a donation. At other places, unofficial “guides” will sometimes materialize and insist on showing you round – for a consideration. Try not to feel pressured into accepting the services of unofficial guides unless you want them.
Certain elements of the Sri Lanka population are becoming increasingly touchy about perceived insults to Buddhism and Buddhist iconography. In 2014 British tourist Naomi Coleman (a practising Buddhist, ironically) was detained on arrival and subsequently deported for sporting a Buddha tattoo on her arm, while another British visitor was denied entry in 2013 for having a similar tattoo. If in doubt, cover up.
Be aware too that any use of a Buddha image in what might be deemed an insulting context (even as a picture on a t-shirt, for example) may lead to trouble, with incidents ranging from the arrest in 2010 of two Muslim businessman for producing Buddha key-rings through to the riots which followed screenings of rapper Akon’s “Sexy Chick” video, featuring a raunchy pool party in which a Buddha statue can be seen (but only if you look very hard) in the background. Akon was subsequently denied entry to Sri Lanka, and a planned concert cancelled.