XARELLO
High-quality Catalan with a strong personality making firm wines both still and sparkling.
Berry colour: white
PRINCIPAL SYNONYMS: Cartoixà, Pansa Blanca, Pansal *, Premsal Blanca (Mallorca), Xarel-lo, Xarel·lo, Xerello
VARIETIES COMMONLY MISTAKEN FOR XARELLO: CAYETANA BLANCA *, MACABEO * (Catalunya), PRENSAL (Islas Baleares)
ORIGINS AND PARENTAGE
Xarello was first mentioned under the name Xerello in 1785 in Sitges in Penedès (Favà i Agud 2001), its most likely place of origin. According to this author, the name Xarello comes from the Italian chiarello, meaning ‘claret’, a term originally used to refer to wine that was light red in colour. DNA profiling suggests that Xarello might be related to MACABEO (Ibañez et al. 2003), with which it is often blended and sometimes even confused.
A pink-berried mutation called Xarello Rosado, also known as Pansa Rosada, has been observed near Barcelona (Ibañez et al. 2003) and is authorized in the Alella DO.
VITICULTURAL CHARACTERISTICS
Compact bunches of thick-skinned, medium-sized berries. Mid budding and ripening. Adapts to most soils. Susceptible to coulure and therefore productive only as long as weather at flowering is good. Susceptible to powdery and downy mildews. Good resistance to other diseases, notably botrytis bunch rot.
WHERE IT’S GROWN AND WHAT ITS WINE TASTES LIKE
The official variety list in Spain has adopted the Xarello spelling, perhaps because not many keyboards have the raised Catalan dot to hand for Xarel·lo, though the hyphenated form Xarel-lo is probably more common.
Xarello is Catalunya’s highest-quality light-skinned variety for ageworthy still whites and sparkling Cavas thanks to its combination of power, density, high acidity and relatively high sugar levels. Its main role is in Cava, partnered with PARELLADA and MACABEO, throughout Catalunya – particularly in Penedès – in north-east Spain. In 2008, almost 99% of the Spain’s 8,043 ha (19,875 acres) were planted in Catalunya, where it is authorized in most of the region’s DOs. It is valued by Cava producers because it contributes body, structure and freshness and increases a wine’s longevity. Studies carried out at Barcelona and Washington universities found that Xarello has a very high level of the anti-oxidant resveratrol, which helps to protect it against disease in the vineyard. One of Spain’s finest Cavas, Recaredo’s single-vineyard Turó d’en Mota, is made from 100% Xarello, and Gramona’s fine Celler Batlle is dominated by Xarello.
However, it can also produce powerful still wines, sometimes as part of a blend with varieties such as GARNACHA BLANCA, MACABEO or occasionally CHARDONNAY. As a varietal wine, it can be a little austere rather than overwhelmingly fruity but it often has aromas of citrus and pear as well as a herbal note. Producers of still, varietal wines include Albet i Noya, Arç Blanc, Bolet, Can Ràfols dels Caus, Donzella, El Cep (L’Alzinar), Gramona, Mas Rabassa, Nadal, Parató, Pardal, Parés Baltà, Sabaté i Roca and Torelló.
XINOMAVRO
Top-quality, widely planted but pernickety, high-acid Greek variety.
Berry colour: black
PRINCIPAL SYNONYMS: Csinomavro, Mavro, Mavro Naoussis, Mavro Naoustino, Mavro Xyno (western Makedonía), Naouses Mavro, Naoustiano, Naoystiro Mavro, Negroska Popolka, Niaousa, Niasoustino, Pipoliko, Pipolka, Popoliko (Véroia in Makedonía), Popolka (Gouménissa and Amýnteo in Makedonía), Xinogaltso, Xynomavro Bolgar, Xynomavro Naoussis, Xynomavro of Náoussa, Xynomavron, Zinomavro, Zynomavro
ORIGINS AND PARENTAGE
Xinomavro, meaning ‘acid black’ in reference to the grape’s acidity, is the dominant red variety in northern Greece. At least three main clones have been distinguished in the Náoussa region, where it most likely originates from (Galet 2000; Manessis 2000; Nikolau and Michos 2004).
Some have suggested a similarity between Xinomavro and PINOT NOIR, or between Ximomavro and NEBBIOLO, but DNA analysis has shown it to be genetically distinct from both.
VITICULTURAL CHARACTERISTICS
Vigorous and very productive. Mid budding and late ripening. Susceptible to downy mildew, botrytis bunch rot and, to a lesser extent, powdery mildew. Best on light, poor sandy soils. Canopy management is critical to achieve full ripeness.
WHERE IT’S GROWN AND WHAT ITS WINE TASTES LIKE
Xinomavro was the second most planted dark-skinned variety in Greece in 2008 (2,389 ha/5,903 acres) after AGIORGITIKO and the most widely planted variety in central Makedonía (749 ha/1,851 acres) and in western Makedonía (1,376 ha/3,400 acres). It is best known as the sole variety allowed in the Náoussa appellation but is showing increasingly impressive results in the higher, cooler and windier vineyards further north in Amýnteo, an appellation that also requires 100% Xinomavro. In Gouménissa further east, at least 20% NEGOSKA must be blended in; and in the Rapsáni appellation to the south, near Mount Ólympos in Thessalía, Xinomavro is an equal partner with KRASSATO and STAVROTO.
Wines vary enormously in style but generally share high acidity and excellent potential for ageing. Colour stability can be a problem so that wines may be relatively pale and with time become brick-like in colour, rather like NEBBIOLO. To generalize further is difficult since there is considerable clonal variation and a wide range of winemaking influences such as use of oak during maturation. Tannins may be dry and even angular in youth but time in bottle can soften them and create complexity and elegance. In young wines the aromas are dominated by red fruits such as strawberry and plum but with age these change to more savoury aromas of tomato, olive and dried fruit. There is also a strong trend to blend Ximomavro with SYRAH or MERLOT, to fill out the palate. Recommended producers include Alpha Estate, Argatia, Boutari, Foundis, Katogi & Strofilia, Kir-Yiannis and Tsantali (particularly for Rapsáni).
Several different clones have been identified (ampelographically rather than genetically). Of these, the Velventós clone is better suited to cooler climates, ripens earlier and has softer tannins, whereas the Yiannakochori clone tends to be more powerful and tannic (Lazarakis 2005).
Xinomavro is also responsible for some increasingly good rosé wines, still or sparkling, and at various sweetness levels.
XYNISTERI
Widely planted Cypriot variety capable of making fresh, citrusy whites.
Berry colour: white
PRINCIPAL SYNONYMS: Aspro Kyprou, Cipro Bianco, Hebron Blanc, Hebron White, Hibron Blanc, Koumantaria, Lefko Kyprou, Lefko Kyproy, Topiko Aspro, Xinisteri, Xynistera, Xynisteri Aspro Kyprou
VARIETIES COMMONLY MISTAKEN FOR XYNISTERI: Aspro X *, SAVATIANO * (Greece)
ORIGINS AND PARENTAGE
Xynisteri is indigenous to the island of Cyprus, where it was first mentioned, spelt Xinisteri, among the better quality wines of the island in 1881 in volume 17 of the Italian Bolletino consolare pubblicato per cura del Ministero per gli Affari Esteri, and then several years later by French ampelographer Pierre Mouillefert (1893) as the best and most widespread white variety of Cyprus.
OTHER HYPOTHESES
According to Galet (2000), Xynisteri is identical to Zitania from Israel, which might explain why it is sometimes called Hebron Blanc, but this has not been verified by DNA profiling. Although Aspro, meaning ‘white’, is a well-known synonym for Xynisteri (Galet 2000), an obscure reference sample called Aspro X in the collection of the ARI research centre at Zygi on Cyprus turned out to be distinct from Xynisteri (Hvarleva, Hadjinicoli et al. 2005).
VITICULTURAL CHARACTERISTICS
Vigorous and productive. Mid budding, mid to late ripening. Long bunches of thick-skinned berries. Susceptible to powdery mildew but resistant to botrytis bunch rot.
WHERE IT’S GROWN AND WHAT ITS WINE TASTES LIKE
Xynisteri, the most common white wine grape on Cyprus (2,227 ha/5,503 acres in 2010, ie nearly 23% of the total vineyard area) is used to produce both dry white wines and Commandaria, the island’s sweet, usually fortified, dried-grape wine. Table wines are generally light and lemony with moderate alcohol levels. Planted at higher altitudes, the variety produces wines that are more vibrant and mineral but the variety is often refreshed and/or filled out by blending with international varieties such as SÉMILLON, CHARDONNAY or SAUVIGNON BLANC, occasionally with a light touch of oak and, in a few instances, with a dollop of MUSCAT OF ALEXANDRIA. Some examples have a slightly grippy texture, attractive in moderation. Recommended producers include Aes Ambelis, Constantinou, Ezousa, Kolios, Kyperounda, Tsiakkas, Vasilikon, Vlassides and Zambartas.