East Bay: Cities and Back Country

IN SPANISH times the distant shoreline opposite the Golden Gate was “la contra costa” (the opposite coast), to the conquistadores. Today between the shimmering cables and steel girders of the San Francisco-Oakland Bay Bridge, the eastward traveler sees a continuous panorama of home and industry, extending north and south with hardly a break and almost to the crest of the wooded hills in the background. The “opposite coast” is now the East Bay, a heterogeneous urban area comprising ten municipalities in two counties. The bridge is itself both a practical and a symbolical evidence of its close relationship to the other metropolitan areas on the western shore.

The hills seem to recede as the traveler speeds down the eastern half of the bridge: he sees a flat rectangular strip of land on which most of the industrial and business sections of the East Bay rest, as on a stage to which the residential hills are the backdrop. Ahead and to the right are the tall buildings of downtown Oakland, key city of the area, where the industrial district crowds down to the Outer Harbor in the foreground. Across the water to the far right a ferryboat dock—reminiscent of a vanishing era in Bay transportation—affords the only glimpse of Alameda, the island city. Far to the southeast, beyond the traveler's range of vision, are San Leandro and Hayward. Although the vast panorama of homes and business buildings shows no visible gaps, it is a jig-saw puzzle of independent communities closely fitted together—Piedmont, a residential community in the hills almost directly ahead; Emeryville, an industrial town crowding to the shore in the left foreground; Berkeley to the left, best identified by the white campanile and stadium on the university campus, spreading up the slopes beyond; El Cerrito, and Richmond, residential and industrial towns far to the left. With a combined population of over a half-million, these municipalities form a continuous urban unit, yet maintain their political independence.

Its scenic attractions and garden climate—slightly more extreme in summer and winter than San Francisco's—make the East Bay the family homesite of more than 30,000 commuters, who ebb and flow daily across the bridge to business and professional offices. The panoramic setting of the entire Bay region is nowhere better seen than from the Grizzly Peak and Skyline Boulevards, which follow the crest of the hills above Berkeley and Oakland. With impressive authority, a noted traveler has Cited this tour as “the third most beautiful drive in the world.” It follows for a distance the boundary line between the two counties which share the east side of the Bay—Alameda and Contra Costa, the old Spanish name having adhered to the latter, although its meaning is generally lost on the monolinguistic inheritors of the ranchos.

Oakland

Information Service: Oakland Tribune, 13th and Franklin Sts. Chamber of Commerce, 14th and Franklin Sts. Dep't of Motor Vehicles, 1107 Jackson St. California State Automobile Assn., 399 Grand Ave. Alameda County Development Commission, County Courthouse.

Railroad Stations: Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe. Ry., San Pablo Ave. and 40th St. Sacramento Northern Ry., Shafter Ave. and 40th St. Southern Pacific R. R., W. end of 16th St. and Broadway and 1st St. Western Pacific R. R., Washington and 3rd Sts.

Bus Stations: Greyhound and Peerless Lines, Union Stage Depot, 2047 San Pablo Ave. Santa Fe and Burlington Trailways, 1801 Telegraph Ave. All American Bus Lines, 1901 San Pablo Ave. Dollar Lines, 2002 San Pablo Ave.

Airports: Oakland Municipal Airport, Bay Farm Island, for United Air Lines (about Jan., 1941 base will be moved to San Francisco) and TWA. Treasure Island for Pan-American Airways.

Taxis: Average rates 20¢ first ¼ m., 10¢ each additional ½ m.

Streetcars and Buses: East Bay Transit Co. to all points in Oakland, Berkeley, and Alameda, 10¢ or one token (7 for 50¢); to Hayward, El Cerrito, or Richmond 20¢ or 2 tokens; transfers free. Transbay electric trains to San Francisco, 21¢.

Bridge: San Francisco-Oakland Bay Bridge approaches: 38th and Market Sts. and 8th and Cypress Sts.; toll 25¢, 1 to 5 passengers.

Traffic Regulations: Speed limit 25 m.p.h. in business and residential areas, 15 m.p.h. at intersections. Parking limit 40 min. in business district. No all-night parking.

Accommodations: Eight medium-priced hotels downtown; apartment hotels; Y.M.C.A., 2501 Telegraph Ave.; Y.W.C.A., 1515 Webster St.; eight tourist camps.

Radio Stations: KLX (880 kc.), Tribune Tower; KLS (1280 kc.), 327 21st St.; KROW (930 kc.), 464 19th St.

Concert Halls: Auditorium Theater, Civic Auditorium; Women's City Club.

Motion Picture Houses: Five first-run theaters downtown.

Amateur and Little Theaters: Oakland Theater Guild, Women's City Club, 1428 Alice St.; Faucet School of the Theater, 1400 Harrison St.; East Bay Children's Theater, Junior League, Hotel Oakland.

Burlesque: Moulin Rouge, 485 8th St.

SPORTS

 

Archery: Peralta Park, 10th and Fallon Sts.

Auto Racing: Oakland Speedway, E. 14th St. and 150th Ave.

Baseball: Oakland Baseball Park (Pacific Coast League), San Pablo and Park Aves. Auditorium Field, 8th and Fallon Sts. Bay View, 18th and Wood Sts. Bushrod, 60th St. and Shattuck Ave.

Boating: Lake Merritt.

Boxing: Oakland Civic Auditorium (Wednesday nights).

Cricket: Golden Gate Playgrounds, 6142 San Pablo Ave.

Golf: Knoll Golf Course, Oak Knoll and Mountain Blvd. Lake Chabot Municipal Golf Course, end of Golf Links Rd.

Ice Skating: Oakland Ice Rink, 625 14th St.

Lawn Bowling: Lakeside Park, N. shore Lake Merritt.

Riding: Bridle paths in hills; horse rental $1.00 per hour up.

Softball: Exposition Field (lighted), 8th and Fallon Sts. Wolfenden Playgrounds (lighted), 2230 Dennison St. Allendale School, Penniman and 38th Aves. Goldengate Playground, 6142 San Pablo Ave. Manzanita School, 24th Ave. and E. 26th St. Poplar Playground, 32nd and Peralta Sts.

Swimming: Lion's Pool, Dimond Park, Fruitvale Ave. and Lyman Rd.; children 15¢, adults 25¢; no suits or towels furnished. Lake Temescal . Forest Park Pool, Thornhill Dr.; children 15¢, adults 250; suit 10¢, towel 5¢, caps 10¢ to 25¢.

Tennis: 31 municipal courts; daytime free, 250 per court per ½ hour nights. Athol Plaza, Lakeshore Blvd. and Athol Ave. Bella Vista, 10th Ave. and E. 28th St. Brookdale Plaza, High St. and Brookdale Ave. Dimond Park, Fruitvale Ave. and Lyman Rd. Mosswood Park, Moss Ave. and Webster St. Davie Tennis Stadium, 188 Oak Rd.

Wrestling: Oakland Civic Auditorium (Friday nights).

Yachting: Oakland Yacht Harbor, foot of 19th Ave.

CHURCHES

(Only centrally located churches of most denominations are listed)

Baptist. First, 530 21st St. Buddhist. Japanese Buddhist Temple, 6th and Jackson Sts. Christian. First, 29th and Fairmount Sts. Christian Science. First Church of Christ, Scientist, 1701 Franklin St. Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints. Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints, 3757 Webster St. Congregational. First, 26th and Harrison Sts. Episcopal. St. Paul's, Bay Place and Montecito Ave. Evangelical. St. Mark's, Telegraph Ave. and 58th St. Free Methodist. First, 459 61st St Greek Orthodox. Holy Assumption, 920 Brush St. Hebrew Orthodox. Temple Sinai, 28th and Webster Sts. Lutheran. St. Paul's, Grove and 10th Sts. Methodist. First, 24th and Broadway. Presbyterian. First, 26th and Broadway. Roman Catholic. St. Francis de Sales, Grove and Hobart Sts. Salvation Army. Salvation Army Citadel, 533 9th St. Seventh Day Adventist. Oakland Central Church, 531 25th St. Unitarian. First, 685 14th St.

OAKLAND (0-1600 alt., 304,909 pop.), seat of Alameda County, occupies roughly the central part of the East Bay metropolitan area. Berkeley and Emeryville to the north and Alameda, across the Estuary, limit its expansion, but to the east and southeast it sprawls without let or hindrance over hills and Bay-shore flats.

From the tall white City Hall in the heart of the city, streets, once country roads, radiate: San Pablo Avenue striking northwest to industrial Emeryville and West Berkeley; Telegraph Avenue and Broadway, north through the newer residential sections to the University of California; Fourteenth Street, west through shabby neighborhoods toward the Bay, and east and southeast by zigzags past Lake Merritt and an interminable series of local retail shops supplying the small, neat but monotonous rows of white houses which make up East Oakland, Fruitvale, Melrose, and Elmhurst.

Closely hemming the downtown section, where a few tall office buildings loom over squat business structures, are two- and three-story homes of the “gingerbread” era, slightly down-at-the-heel. Spreading north and east toward the hills from Lake Merritt in the heart of the city are thousands of wood and stucco houses, each with its shrubs and lawn. The one reminder of Oakland's Spanish heritage is the modern homes in the restricted districts—Rockridge, Broadway Terrace, and Claremont Pines—constructed in a modified Mediterranean style of architecture, tile-roofed and stuccoed, with wide arches, studio windows, and sunny patios. Semitropical trees—camphor, acacia, pepper, dracena, and palm—ornament city parks and sidewalks, and figs and citrus fruits ripen in the warm sunshine in many backyards.

Warmer in the summer than its metropolitan neighbor across the Bay, Oakland's climate is nevertheless tempered in summer by cooling winds and fogs from the ocean. This has attracted many San Francisco business men and office workers who, even before the building of the great bridge, came here.

In the springtime, the hills become green backgrounds for wildflower mosaics of scarlet and purple, blue ánd yellow. Besides the Coast live-oak for which the city was named, the Monterey pine and the eucalyptus are abundant, the latter introduced from Australia in 1856 and planted by thousands in the hills to create a wooded watershed. Vivid with color during the spring months, the uplands are seared to silver-brown through summer and fall because of lack of rain.

Around the City Hall spread the 70 blocks of the retail shopping district. Oakland's department stores and speciality shops draw patronage from the entire East Bay region, but they also yield a certain percentage of such trade to the transbay metropolis, as San Francisco trade names on the doors of local shops indicate. Influenced by the close commercial tie-up between the two cities, Oakland's tempo of living varies with the time of day: by dawn commuters are on the move, feeder highways to the San Francisco-Oakland Bay Bridge are alive with speeding cars, and interurban trains clang through the streets, crossing and re-crossing the great span. After the early morning rush, life in the downtown section settles into a somewhat more moderate pace. At the end of the day, as automobiles, buses, and streetcars carry thousands home from work, the main thoroughfares come to noisy life again.

South of the central business district, the section between Tenth Street and the shore of the Estuary, oldest quarter of the city, is now given over to bargain stores, second-hand shops, and workers’ homes. On lower Broadway is a section of honky-tonk beer parlors and skid-road soup houses, where a burlesque show with lurid lobby portraiture is neighbor to a hole-in-the-wall pawnshop and an old-clothes emporium, where panhandlers linger on street corners and at entrances to penny arcades. Southward, interspersed with unpainted, grimy dwellings, are wholesale houses.

Along the Estuary itself, resounding to the grating squeak of winches and the staccato chug of wharf tractors are huge docks, a part of the Port of Oakland's Inner Harbor—one of the three on the city's 32-mile water front : Outer Harbor, between San Francisco-Oakland Bay Bridge approach and the Southern Pacific mole; Middle Harbor, bounded by the Southern Pacific and Western Pacific Railroads; and Inner Harbor, comprising the six miles of tidal estuary between Oakland and Alameda. Into the narrow Inner Harbor come freighters from the seven seas. Here are held crew races of the University of California, and here pleasure craft and fishing boats nose in and out.

West of downtown Oakland, extending from Market Street to the Bay and from the Estuary to Twentieth Street, is the West Oakland district. Crowding close about railroad yards and manufacturing plants are unsightly and dreary-looking dwellings. On some of the streets spacious old homes still maintain an air of shabby and aloof gentility, but many have been partitioned into crowded, rabbit-warren housekeeping rooms. Throughout the district are rows of ugly cottages with blistered paint and rickety stairs and porches, many of which are now being demolished to make way for new projects of the United States Housing Authority. Along Seventh Street, intersecting this district east and west, rumble the interurban trains.

In West Oakland is the city's Harlem, home of the large Negro population attracted by Oakland's position as the western terminus of two overland railway systems, which employ in great numbers waiters, cooks, and porters. West Seventh Street is the center of Negro life. Here are dance halls, restaurants, markets, barber shops, and motion picture theaters for Negroes.

Although Oakland's population includes thousands of Portuguese, Italians, Mexicans, and Chinese, its various national groups are scattered throughout the city rather than settled in well-defined foreign quarters. But their customs and their cuisine lend colorful variety to the city's life.

The Portuguese have been here for three generations, and yet they still hold to such national customs and festivals as the Feast of the Holy Ghost, celebrated annually. A large number of Portuguese-Americans in the environs are truck farmers and dairymen. The Italians, largest foreign language group, have influenced the culinary art of the community. Numerous Italian restaurants feature various antipasti with which to whet the appetite; polenta, a thick porridge of corn meal; and such delicacies as fried artichokes or squash blossoms dipped in batter and fried in deep olive oil. The Mexican population maintains a few restaurants which serve native Mexican foods—enchiladas, tacos en tortillas, and chili rellena—and an occasional hole-in-the-wall shop where strings of chorizo (Mexican sausage) hang from gray rafters and three-bushel jute bags of purple and crimson peppers stand in corners. Chinatown, with its dangling lanterns and picture word signs, houses its 3,000 Chinese in a loosely knit community centering in the wholesale district near Eighth and Franklin Streets. Up and down its sidewalks the soft-soled slippers of Old China shuffle along beside Young China's tapping occidental heels. On market pegs hang exotic fruits and vegetables, dried ducks and transparent octopuses; from gaudy chop suey establishments issue strains of modern “swing.”

Although the site of Oakland was first visited by white men in 1770, when Lieutenant Pedro Fages led an expedition here seeking a land route to Point Reyes, a half century passed before the land was first colonized. In 1820 Spain's last governor of Alta California, Pablo Vicente de Sola, granted to one Sergeant Luis Maria Peralta a tract of land in recognition of conspicuous military service in the Spanish Colonial Army. This grant became known as the Rancho San Antonio. Covering 48,000 acres, it included the area now occupied by Oakland, Berkeley, and Alameda. Threescore years of age at the time he received this prodigious grant, Don Luis never actually lived on it, preferring to remain at his home on a grant he had obtained in 1818, Portados la Rancheria del Chino, near the pueblo San Jose. He had four grown sons whom he placed in charge of Rancho San Antonio. Not only was this the first, but it was also the most valuable, of the land grants on the east shore of San Francisco Bay. Lean years were few. The soil was rich, and herds multiplied rapidly; but agriculture was confined to the raising of a few staples grown in limited quantities.

In 1842 Don Luis, then past 80, divided his grant among his sons. To Jose Domingo he gave what is now Berkeley; to Vicente, the Encinal de Temescal (now central Oakland); to Antonio Maria, the portion to the south (East Central Oakland and Alameda); and to Ignacio, what is now Melrose and Elmhurst. Realizing the danger of future family altercations, he adjured them: “I command all my children, that they remain in peace, succoring each other in their necessities, eschewing all avaricious ambitions, without entering into foolish differences for one or two calves, for the cows bring them forth each year; and inasmuch as the land is narrow, it is indispensable that the cattle should become mixed up, for which reason I command my sons to be friendly and united.”

To this sage advice his sons listened with respect. During the golden years of the Peraltas’ reign over Rancho San Antonio, business was seldom allowed to interfere with pleasure. There were innumerable fiestas, and, on Antonio's share of the grant, bull fights were held. But while the Spaniards complacently watched their grazing herds of fat cattle “without entering into foolish differences for one or two calves,” a new economic order was emerging. Gold had been discovered. Across the Bay the sleepy settlement of Yerba Buena had become a lusty brawling town crowded with men of all descriptions, including trigger-quick adventurers.

Shaken by the momentous events which were threatening the destinies of the Peralta clan, Don Luis called its members together—sons and grandsons—and spoke with grave earnestness, imparting final words of wisdom: “My sons,” he said, “God has given this gold to the Americans. Had He desired us to have it, He would have given it to us ere now. Therefore, go not after it, but let others go. Plant your lands and reap; these be your best gold fields, for all must eat while they live.”

In 1849 there arrived the first American settler in this region, a former sea captain, Moses Chase. Soon thereafter three newcomers, Robert, William, and Edward Patten, who had leased land from Antonio Peralta, added Chase to their group and became the first American farmers in this district, raising good crops of hay and grain.

With these tenants the Peraltas had come to terms, but a steady stream of new squatters also dotted their holdings. Unsuccessful in several attempts in 1850 and 1851 to eject the newcomers, they were forced at length to compromise by granting leases. Among these squatters was a man whose name was to be closely linked with the early history of Oakland—Horace W. Carpentier, who recently had been graduated from Columbia College in New York. Associated with him in the enterprises that were destined to make him many times a millionaire were A. J. Moon and Edson Adams. Having acquired with his partners a townsite where present downtown Oakland is situated, Carpentier in 1852 succeeded in having the town of Oakland incorporated, with himself seated securely in the mayor's chair. When the citizenry, who were seldom advised of what their mayor was doing, awoke, he held—among other concessions—a franchise for a ferry to San Francisco, the fare to be one dollar a trip.

Carpentier obtained absolute title to the entire water front in exchange for building a small frame schoolhouse and three tiny wharves. The water-front deal resulted in prolonged litigation, known as the “Battle of the Waterfront,” by which the city tried to regain title to its doorstep. The fight was not ended until 1910, when assignees of Carpentier agreed to waive title to the water-front property in exchange for long-term leases.

The first combination rail and ferry service began operation to San Francisco in 1863, although ferry service alone had started as early as 1850. During the 1860’s the “Big Four”—Stanford, Huntington, Crocker, and Hopkins—started building the Central Pacific Railroad, for which Oakland was the proposed western terminus. When in 1867 they asked the city for water-front rights, the city was unable to comply, having presented all such property to Horace Carpentier. However, the next year Carpentier founded a corporation known as the Oakland Waterfront Company. Associated with him in this enterprise, among others, was Leland Stanford, one of the “Big Four.” Carpentier deeded to the corporation his water-front holdings and the corporation in turn conveyed to the railroad 500 acres of tideland. The railroad later appeared as the chief defendant, and loser, in the suit wherein Oakland regained these properties.

At one time the railroad officials had considered the Government-owned Yerba Buena Island as a western rail terminus. The citizens of San Francisco objected violently. It was feared “that the real intention was, by leveling the island and constructing causeways to Oakland, to rear up a rival city on the opposite shore that would be in substance owned…by the railroad company.” The plan died when the Senate refused to approve the scheme. All obstacles finally surmounted, the first overland rail service began in 1869.

By 1870 there were two banks, three newspapers, and a city directory. Gas lamps illuminated lower Broadway. The first paving had been laid—at a cost of $3.40 per square foot. The University of California (later moved to Berkeley) was “spreading light and goodness,” and a seminary for young ladies—now Mills College—was about to open.

The Central Pacific had entered the city, and the Oakland Railroad, already connecting with ferries to San Francisco, had been granted the right “to run horse-cars from the end of Broadway to Temescal Creek, and thence to the grounds of the College of California, for thirty years.” Southeast of Lake Merritt the villages of Clinton, San Antonio, and Lynn had been consolidated into the town of Brooklyn—now East Oakland.

The social life of the town, also, had seen great change. No longer were posters seen such as the one which had announced in earlier days:

“There will be a great bear fight in front of the American Hotel, Oakland, between the red bear Sampson and a big grizzly on Jan. 9th.”

By 1870 this form of entertainment had been banned, and less sanguinary pleasures had taken its place: baseball instead of bullfights and typically Yankee “dime parties,” socials, and church bazaars instead of Spanish fiestas.

In its growth as a suburb, it gained some distinction from the artists and writers who lived here. Jack London was developing from a water-front loiterer into an internationally known novelist. Joaquin Miller, the “Poet of the Sierras,” was vaingloriously displaying his long hair and longer beard. Edwin Markham, while teaching in an Oakland school, awoke to find himself famous for “The Man With the Hoe.” William Keith was painting the East Bay hills and trees. George Sterling, the lyric poet of whom London, his contemporary, said, “he looked like a Greek coin run over by a Roman chariot,” lived in Oakland from 1890 to 1905, and Ina Coolbrith, who as librarian of the Oakland Public Library guided the early reading of Jack London, and who was a poetess in her own right, was here from 1873 until 1897.

Oakland's growth was greatly accelerated by the earthquake and fire that overwhelmed San Francisco in 1906. Although itself damaged by the earthquake, it escaped the fire which overwhelmed the neighboring city.

Up to 50,000 refugees fled to the East Bay region in one week. Not a few remained as permanent residents. This influx caused such a building boom that by the following year the population had jumped to 125,000. Industrial growth also was stimulated. During the World War, industry boomed as four large shipbuilding companies operated at peak capacity. By 1920 the population was 216,000.

The rapid growth of Oakland shortly after 1900 is credited largely to Francis Marion “Borax” Smith, of Death Valley fame. With the huge profits from his borax mines, Smith invested heavily in the future of Oakland. He tied together the numerous street railway systems of the East Bay and founded the Key Route Ferry System in opposition to the Southern Pacific; he acquired control of the East Bay Water Company, and in partnership with Frank C. Havens, pioneer capitalist, established the Realty Syndicate as a holding company for their many real estate properties. Land in every region of Alameda County was bought and developed, residential and industrial tracts were opened up, and interurban train service was extended into each new era. Smith came to own an estimated one-sixth of Alameda County.

In December, 1910 the $200,000,000 United Properties Company was formed by a merger of money and properties owned by Smith, William S. Tevis, and R. G. Hanford. This corporation, perhaps the largest in California history (excepting the Eastern-controlled Southern Pacific Railroad), was to absorb and develop the railways, ferry system, public utilities, and real estate of the East Bay. However, the company collapsed in 1913 because of unsound financial methods, carrying with it the fortunes of the three founders. Smith, the heaviest loser, saw $24,000,000 slip from his fingers almost overnight. But the company's loss was the city's gain, for its developments remained.

In the Bay region, Oakland's port ranks second to San Francisco in value of cargo handled, and third to Richmond and San Francisco in tonnage. Coordinated water-rail-truck facilities handle the 3,500,000 tons of cargo that pass over the water front annually. Principal exports are dried and canned fruits and vegetables, lumber, grain, salt, and petroleum. Imports include copra, coal and coke, paper, iron and steel, and fertilizer. Fir, pine, cedar, spruce, and redwood arrive from the Northwest and the interior of California to be made into finished lumber or wood products before distribution.

Oakland's water front is well-equipped not only to repair bay, river, and oceangoing vessels but also to lay down such craft and to launch and outfit them. Yachting, commercial fishing, towing, and general boatbuilding and repairing call for many smaller shipyards. Construction work on large yachts and other boats is facilitated by the proximity of large Diesel engine works.

Fortunate in having ample room for residential expansion, Oakland is still growing. On the outskirts, where garden space is available, files of newly built homes spread into the countryside. Thus Oakland, despite the encroachment of industry, retains its identity as a city of homes.

POINTS OF INTEREST

1. The ALBERS BROTHERS MILLING COMPANY PLANT (tours for visitors Tues., Wed., Thurs., 10 a.m., 2 p.m), west end of Seventh St., manufactures a wide variety of packaged food products and feeds for animals.

2. The NAVAL SUPPLY DEPOT, end of Middle Harbor Rd., will be the largest in the Nation when completed sometime after 1942 at an estimated cost of $15,000,000. It will have 49 buildings; immense warehouses will provide storage space sufficient to hold a two-year supply of food, clothing, equipment, and other materials for the entire United States Navy. Two wharves, capable of handling six battleships, will be reached through a channel and turning basin.

3. The PACIFIC COAST SHREDDED WHEAT COMPANY PLANT (visiting hours 9-11, 1-4; guides furnished), Fourteenth and Union Sts., ships much of its large output to countries around the Pacific. In the process of making shredded wheat, hard wheat is dry-cleaned, steam-cooked, and stored in steel tanks for ten hours. Shredded between grooved rollers under 1,700 pounds pressure, it emerges in twenty-nine threadlike layers which are cut into biscuits and baked for twenty minutes at 550° F.

4. The MOORE DRYDOCK (no visitors), foot of Adeline St., in 1939 laid keels for four cargo steamers under a $12,000,000 contract with the United States Maritime Commission—the first sizable vessels to be built in San Francisco Bay since the World War. The concern's 300- and 500-foot floating drydocks and marine railway docks provide for building and repairing vessels and for such special jobs as constructing the caissons used in the piers of the San Francisco-Oakland Bay Bridge. This firm, since it laid in 1909 the keel of the first steel ship built in Oakland, has launched 200 such craft. During the World War 58 vessels were constructed, six of them sliding down the ways in 1918 on a single morning tide.

5. At ST. JOSEPH'S CHURCH, Seventh and Chestnut Sts., occurs the annual Portuguese Festival of the Holy Ghost, which originated in Portugal in the thirteenth century when Queen Saint Isabel had a vision of the Holy Ghost. To her He indicated a desire that a church be built in His honor. The ceremonial of the dedication of that church, with its procession, its crowning of a queen, and its placing of the crown on the Altar of the Third Person of the Blessed Trinity, has survived among the Portuguese to this day. The festival, centering around Pentecost Sunday, is celebrated with feasting on barbecued meats and sopas and dancing of the chamarita.

6. The OAKLAND PUBLIC LIBRARY, Fourteenth and Grove Sts., contains 275,000 volumes and 200,000 pictures and prints. Over the main stairway and on the walls of the second floor are murals by Marion Holden Pope and Arthur Matthews.

7. Oakland's tallest structure, the CITY HALL, Washington St. between Fourteenth and Fifteenth Sts., is a 17-story building rising 360 feet, completed in 1914, and was designed by the New York firm of Palmer, Hornbostel, and Jones, winner in a National competition. Faced with white granite and terra cotta in mingled Doric and Corinthian design, it has three set-back sections, capped by a baroque cupola adorned with four clock faces. The clock was donated by Dr. Samuel Merritt, former mayor.

Opposite the City Hall, overlooked by towering downtown buildings, is the triangular MEMORIAL PLAZA, dedicated to American war heroes.

8. Famed as the cradle of Jack London's genius, the FIRST AND LAST CHANCE SALOON, 50 Webster St., near the Oakland Estuary, has also warmed many another literary celebrity, including Robert Louis Stevenson, Joaquin Miller, and Rex Beach. A guest book bears the signatures of hundreds of the great and near-great. The small, weathered, dilapidated structure, built over 60 years ago from the timbers of an old whaling boat, was first used as a bunkhouse for men working the oyster beds along the East Bay shore. As a saloon, especially in the 1890’s, it was a popular hangout for ready-fisted seafarers who crowded its bar and gambled at its card tables. Jack London, in his early teens, found a friend in the proprietor, the late Johnny Hein-old, through whose encouragement and financial assistance his genius flowered in adventure tales woven around the lives of South Sea traders, Arctic whalers, and Alaska sourdoughs. Today the tinder-dry boards of the old building are blotched with cracked grey paint. The scarred mahogany bar is still in service. The old gambling tables on which young London often wrote are used for refreshments. On a wall, guarded from souvenir hunters by chicken wire, are letters and photographs, including a picture of Jack in knickerbockers poring over Heinold's tattered old dictionary, and a letter, written years later, inviting Heinold to the author's famous Glen Ellen home.

9. The POSEY TUBE, 4,436 feet long, passing under the 42-foot-deep channel of the Oakland Estuary between Harrison St. in Oakland and Webster St. in Alameda, when completed at a cost of $5,000,000 in 1928 was the world's largest under-water tube for vehicular traffic (its 32-foot diameter has since been surpassed by the Mersey Tunnel at Liverpool, England). It is still the only such bypass west of Detroit, Michigan. Its unusual method of construction drew the attention of engineers the world over. In the Oakland Portal, administrative and operating center, are meters that automatically count passing vehicles, control boards that govern the ventilating system, and delicate instruments that register the percentage of carbon-monoxide gas from automobile exhausts in every part of the tunnel. A staff of 17 engineers, mechanics, and traffic policemen is always on duty. Only two fatal accidents occurred in the tube during its first 11 years, in which time 70,500,000 trips were recorded.

10. The BUDDHIST TEMPLE, Sixth and Jackson Sts., with its courtyard and school, is the center of Buddhist social and religious life in the East Bay. Here American-born Japanese children, after attending public schools, spend two hours daily learning their mother tongue and old-country customs.

11. The 32-acre PERALTA PARK, facing Lake Merritt across Twelfth St., is dominated by the $1,000,000 steel and concrete, granite-finished MUNICIPAL AUDITORIUM, built in 1915 on ground once occupied by a group of houses collectively known as the “House of Blazes”—a not very select bagnio. The building is in classical style, the main facade facing the lake ornamented by a series of bas-reliefs in terra cotta set in the alcoves above the entrance doors. Besides the arena, seating 10,000, which is used for conventions and sports events, it contains a large theater for dramatic and musical performances. The ART GALLERY (open 1-5) on the upper floor houses a permanent collection of paintings. Except for about 30 canvases by Russians, the work is chiefly that of California artists, including Charles Rollo Peters, Xavier Martinez, and William Keith.

12. Across Tenth St. from the auditorium, in Peralta Park, is the EXPOSITION BUILDING, a one-story, concrete and steel structure used chiefly as an armory by the California National Guard, and for civic events. Within the park are a playfield, a militia drill ground, and the shooting ranges and lodge of the Oakland Archery Club, whose members meet and shoot every Sunday morning.

13. The ALAMEDA COUNTY COURTHOUSE, facing Lake Merritt on Fallon St. between Twelfth and Thirteenth Sts., is a steel and concrete structure of neoclassic design, built in 1936 at a cost of $2,500,000. Inside the main entrance, on opposite walls, are two murals designed by Marian Simpson and executed by the WPA Federal Art Project, which depict Alameda County in Spanish days and in Gold Rush times in more than 50 colors of marble.

14. LAKE MERRITT, a 155-acre body of tidal water extending northeast from Twelfth St., named for Dr. Samuel Merritt, ex-Mayor of Oakland who helped create it, occupies the once marshy, muddy lagoon adjacent to San Antonio Creek, dammed and dredged in 1909. Hydraulic gates control the water level. A boulevard, a macadam footpath, and a chain of lights encircle the lake. Directly north of the Oakland Public Museum is the large, concrete, brown-gabled BOAT-HOUSE (open 8-12 midnight; rowboats, canoes; around-the-lake water tour, 10¢, children 5¢), containing a dining room, crew quarters and meeting rooms.

15. The OAKLAND PUBLIC MUSEUM (open weekdays 10-5, Sun. and holidays 1-5), beside the lake at 1426 Oak St., housed in a brown, two-story frame building, contains exhibits in natural science and the ethnology of the Pacific Coast. The American history display includes relics of the Nation's wars. Indian, Spanish, and pioneer articles are shown in the California room. In the two Colonial rooms are reproductions of that period, and a “whatnot” once owned by Abraham Lincoln.

16. The SNOW MUSEUM (open 10-5 weekdays, 1-5 Sun. and holidays), 274 Nineteenth St., displays habitat groups of birds, animals, and other native life collected on various expeditions by the donor, Henry Adelbert Snow. In 1919-21, on one of these field trips, Hunting Big Game in Africa, the first wild-animal picture to be released by a major exchange, was filmed. A recent addition is the Cave Room, whose miniature dioramas of prehistoric animal life portray dinosaurs, mammoths, mastodon, great long-horned bison, saber-toothed cats, and other beasts. The collection includes about 50,000 bird eggs.

17. Amid gardens of Old-World tranquillity, the COLLEGE OF THE HOLY NAMES, 2036 Webster St., stands in an eight-acre campus on Lake Merritt's western shore. This liberal arts Catholic college for women grew from a high school founded in 1868 by the Sisters of the Holy Names of Jesus and Mary, through the efforts of Reverend Michael King, pioneer Catholic priest, and received in 1880 a charter to award bachelor of arts degrees. Its scholastic department issued in 1872 the first high school diplomas granted in Oakland.

18. The 88-acre LAKESIDE PARK (bowling greens, tennis courts, golf putting greens, boating), Grand Ave. between Harrison St. and Lakeshore Ave., covers a blunt peninsula thrust between two arms of the lake. A granite boundary marker of the old Rancho San Antonio stands near the Bellevue and Perkins Sts. entrance. In a grassy amphitheater near the beach the Municipal Band gives concerts (Sun. 2:30, July-Oct.). A mounted torpedo porthole from the battleship Maine and a memorial tablet cast from metal recovered from the vessel stand about 200 yards northeast of the bandstand. The nine-foot McElroy Fountain of white Carrara marble on the south-central part of the esplanade walk was built in “Commemoration of the Public Services of John Edmund McElroy,” Oakland attorney. Near the southern end of the peninsula is a brown-gabled canoehouse (canoes for rent) and landing, where privately owned sail boats of the Lake Merritt Sail Club are quartered.

19. East of the canoehouse and landing is the LAKE MERRITT WILD-FOWL SANCTUARY (feeding hours Oct.-Mar., 10 and 3:30). In 1869 the California Legislature designated Lake Merritt as a migratory water-fowl sanctuary, and in 1926 it became a banding station of the United States Biological Survey. From four to five thousand fowl are present during the winter months, and many nest on the small wooded island built in the lake by the city in 1923. Besides many species of ducks and geese, other visitors to the lake include the coot, egret, cormorant, grebe, gull, killdeer, loon, heron, swan, tern, plover, and snipe. Fowl tagged here have been shot as far afield as Siberia and Brazil.

20. From the site of EAST SHORE PARK at the easternmost tip of the lake, the Peraltas shipped hides and tallow. Their embarcadero is marked by concrete columns bordering a crescent-shaped brick wall, built in 1912.

21. The VETERANS MEMORIAL BUILDING, N. side of Grand Ave., adjoining Lakeside Park, has an auditorium seating 700 and a collection of war trophies.

22. The FIRST PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH, Broadway at Twenty-sixth St., a fine modern adaptation of perpendicular Gothic architecture (William C. Hays, architect), has stained-glass windows designed by Stetson Crawford, a pupil of James McNeill Whistler.

23. A public recreation center, MOSSWOOD PARK (8-8 daily), Moss Ave. between Broadway and Webster St., contains playfields, tennis, roque, and croquet courts, horseshoe-pitching ranges, and a shrub-bordered garden theater. A little arroyo spanned by rustic bridges and bordered by flowering shrubs and ferns meanders beneath fine old oaks past the RESIDENCE OF JOHN MORA MOSS, built in the 1860’s, which is now used as a clubhouse and tea room.

24. The MUNICIPAL ROSE GARDENS, in Linda Vista Park, Oakland and Olive Aves., eight acres in area, contain approximately 8,000 bushes.

25. The STATE INDUSTRIAL HOME FOR ADULT BLIND, 3601 Telegraph Ave., occupies a group of white concrete buildings in mission style. In the display room are reed furniture, baskets, pottery, brooms, and other articles made by the blind.

26. Founded in 1907, the CALIFORNIA COLLEGE OF ARTS AND CRAFTS, 5212 Broadway, which occupies several buildings on a four-acre campus, claims distinction as “the only art institution on the Pacific Coast authorized to grant college degrees” and as the only one in California “where, on a single campus, students may complete their work for state teaching credentials…[while] gaining their professional art training.” As the former California School of Arts and Crafts, a nonprofit, coeducational institution, it served the West from 1907-37. In the Divisions of Fine Arts, of Applied Arts, and of Art Education are studios and exhibition halls. The campus with its flowers, shrubs, and trees, its native birds and small animals for art models is the setting for outdoor sketching and painting. Since 1909 the Aztec Indian pupil of Whistler, Xavier Martinez, born in 1873 in Guadalajara, Mexico, has taught painting here. Dressing primitively in hand-woven materials, his black hair bound by a leather thong, “Marty” is unconventional as a teacher, bold and direct as a painter.

27. Entered through a massive stone gateway, MOUNTAIN VIEW CEMETERY, head of Piedmont Ave., on a beautifully landscaped hillside, has a fine view of San Francisco Bay. The pioneer Dr. John Marsh, Washington Bartlett, Governor Henry Haight, Joseph Le Conte, and Francis Marion “Borax” Smith are buried here.

28. In ST. MARY'S CEMETERY, Roman Catholic, head of Howe Street, are the graves of many Spanish pioneers, among them members of the Peralta family.

29. LAKE TEMESCAL REGIONAL PARK, Chabot and New Tunnel Rds., is an abandoned reservoir converted by WPA labor into a recreation center. From the brick boathouse (open May-Sept.; 8:30-7; lockers 10¢; swimming free; canoes and boats 50¢ per hour) juts a long float, equipped with springboards for swimmers. Another float has water targets for casting practice and tournaments.

30. First frame dwelling in Oakland, The MOSES CHASE HOME (private), 404 E. Eighth St., retains only one of the four rooms built in 1850, but several additions have been made. Original ceiling beams, shaped by hand and joined by wooden pegs, are still firm and strong. The Massachusetts Yankee was Oakland's first settler from the “States.”

31. The OAKLAND YACHT CLUB, foot of Nineteenth Ave., established in 1913, has berths for about 100 yachts and motorboats. Each year its members contest for three trophies: the Wallace Trophy for sailboats, the Craven Trophy for “star”-type sailboats, and the Tin Cup Derby for motorboats (an engraved tin cup is the winner's award). At one time Jack London was an honorary member. For the club's annual midsummer party, “A Nite in Venice,” to which the public is invited, the harbor is strung with colored lights.

32. DIMOND PARK (horseshoe court, picnicking, tennis, swimming), Fruitvale Ave. and Lyman Rd., lies in a canyon shut in at its northern end by precipitous slopes. The 12-acre tract, green with eucalyptus, oak and acacia, extending along Sausal Creek, was named for Hugh and Dennis Dimond, who became owners of this part of Rancho San Antonio. The 105-foot LIONS POOL (bath house; sand beach) is Oakland's principal outdoor plunge. In the park is the DIMOND COTTAGE, built in 1897 of adobe bricks from the original home of Antonio Maria Peralta, which stood at 2501 Thirty-fourth Avenue. The adobe, 16 by 28 feet, built by the Dimond brothers, is now the headquarters of a Boy Scout troop.

33. JOAQUIN MILLER PARK (THE HIGHTS), Joaquin Miller Rd. near Mountain Blvd. (hiking trails; community kitchen; picnic areas), is a 67-acre highland area purchased by Oakland as a memorial park in 1917. The 75,000 eucalyptus, pine, cypress, and acacia trees were planted by Miller—who resided here from 1886 to 1913—with the aid of friends and visitors. A native of Indiana, Cincinnatus Heine Miller (1839-1913), after a career of Indian-fighting and small-time politics—during which he took the first name of the bandit Joaquin Murietta—became California's white-haired “Poet of the Sierras.” Participation in the Alaska gold rush and the Chinese war added more color to his last years. Eccentric in dress and demeanor, Miller was much beloved in England as a poet of the American frontier. He is best-known for his school-text poem, “Columbus,” although he wrote prolifically. At “The Hights” (as he spelled the name of his estate), he provided homes for the poets, Yone Noguchi and Takeshi Kanno. George Sterling, Jack London, Harr Wagner, and Edwin Markham were among his frequent guests. Buried in the little cemetery here is Cali-Shasta, his daughter by a Pitt River Indian woman. Later in Oregon he married a young poetess, who bore him three children before she divorced him. A daughter by a still later marriage to Abbie Leland now resides at “The Hights,” having reserved a life tenure in it when she sold the property to Oakland.

THE ABBEY, built in 1886, is a small, low gray frame building consisting of three one-room structures interconnected to form a single unit, each room roofed with a shingled peak. Miller said it was inspired by Newstead Abbey in England and spoke of it as a “little Abbey for little Abbie,” his wife.

A loop trail beginning at the park's souvenir shop, which is flanked by “Juanita's Sanctuary” and “Juanita's Wigwam,” leads past the stone funeral pyre on which Miller wished to be cremated (but was not), the “Pyramid to Moses,” the “Tower to Browning,” and the “Frémont Monument.” Miller was his own mason in building these oddly asymmetrical monuments of native rock. In the center of the park are cypress trees planted in the shape of a cross.

The WOODMINSTER MEMORIAL AMPHITHEATER, constructed by WPA labor under the direction of the Oakland Board of Park Directors, is a memorial to California writers. A cascade beginning near the rear of the amphitheater flows through eight flower-bordered pools to an electric fountain illuminated by constantly changing colors.

34. The 182 acres of SEQUOIA PARK, Joaquin Miller Rd. and Skyline Blvd. (picnicking, outdoor grills, bridle paths), are shaded by towering redwoods. Sequoia Point, within the park, a circular landscaped point, provides a panorama of the Bay to the south, bringing into view East Oakland, Alameda, San Leandro, San Leandro Bay, the Oakland Airport, and the Estuary.

35. Best-known women's college west of the Mississippi, MILLS COLLEGE, Seminary Ave. between Camden St. and Calaveras Ave., is also one of the oldest in the United States. The present residential, non-sectarian college began as the Young Ladies Seminary in 1852 in Benicia. In 1865 Dr. and Mrs. Cyrus Taggart Mills purchased the school and six years later removed it to the present beautifully wooded campus of 150 acres at the base of the San Leandro hills.

Mills was patterned after Mount Holyoke Seminary in Massachusetts. As a college of liberal arts, it has schools in fine arts, language and literature, social institutions, natural sciences, mathematics, and education, leading to the A.B. degree, and a school of graduate studies which gives an M.A. or M.Ed. degree. The faculty of 100 members, serving about 600 students, is large enough to permit small classes and individual attention. Visiting faculty members in the graphic arts have included Leon Kroll, Alexander Archipenko, Frederic Taubes, and the Bauhaus group; in music, Henry Cowell, Luther Marchant, and members of the Pro Arte Quartet; in dancing, Martha Graham, Hanya Holm, and Charles Weidman.

The campus buildings are notably successful adaptations in concrete of Spanish Colonial design. Through the Wetmore Gate on Seminary Ave. a winding road leads to EL CAMPANIL, a buttressed tower of tan-colored concrete, the gift of Francis M. “Borax” Smith, in whose pierced belfry is a chime of ten bells cast for the Chicago World's Fair of 1893. A number of residential halls in an informal style are grouped about beautifully landscaped courts and terraces. The MUSIC BUILDING, in the style of a Spanish Renaissance church, has a fine doorway with ornate carving and an auditorium with murals by Ray Boynton. Graceful triple arches lead to the foyer of LISSER HALL, whose auditorium seats 600. Before a lofty open arcade leading to the ART GALLERY (open Wed. and Sun. 2-5) are two marble Dogs of Fu, Chinese carvings of the Ming dynasty in white marble. In addition to a permanent collection of oils, etchings, bronzes, textiles, and oriental objects d'art, the galleries have occasional loan exhibits. The 77,000 volumes in the LIBRARY (open to visitors), include the collection of about 5,000 rare books and manuscripts given by Albert M. Bender. The WOODLAND THEATER, a natural amphitheater in a eucalyptus grove, is the scene of outdoor plays. Bordering LAKE ALISO near the northern boundary of the campus is an outdoor stage used for dance programs.

36. CHABOT OBSERVATORY (open Tues.-Sat. 1-5, 7-9:30), 4917 Mountain Blvd., named for Anthony Chabot, pioneer, capitalist, and philanthropist, is one of the few California institutions of its kind serving the public schools. Lectures are given to classes from the Oakland schools and from Mills College, which assist jointly in maintenance of the observatory's large lecture hall, reading room, and astronomical library. Illustrated programs for adult astronomy students and meetings of the East Bay Astronomical Association are held here. The two-story stucco building, on the landscaped hillside, houses a spectroscope and 8- and 20-inch refracting telescopes. Connected with the institution is a meteorological station which collects data for Oakland weather reports.

37. The ALAMEDA COUNTY ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS (open 9-6; adm. 10¢; picnicking), Ninety-eighth Ave. and Mountain Blvd., cover 450 well-wooded acres formerly known as Durant Park, now administered by the Alameda County Zoological Society. It contains an arboretum and a small zoo. (In 1940 removal of the Oakland City Zoo from Sequoia Park to a site near the main gate was planned.) Occasional nature-study programs are presented under the direction of Sidney Adelbert Snow, noted big-game hunter and photographer, who lives on the grounds.

38. On the tidal flats of Bay Farm Island in San Leandro Bay is the OAKLAND MUNICIPAL AIRPORT (lunch room), comprising 850 acres. Here are located a unit of the United States Naval Reserve, the western terminals of transcontinental air lines, flying schools, and hangars for privately owned planes and local air taxis. Along Earhart Road, which parallels the airport's southeastern edge, are hangars, the administration building housing the Airport Weather Bureau, and a small glass-enclosed exhibition building, displaying an old pusher-type biplane built in 1910 which placed first in a 1912 international competition. The Wiseman plane, first successful heavier-than-air craft built in California, is suspended in the nearby Navy hangar. Five huge corrugated iron hangars, decorated with brightly painted flying directions, house maintenance shops, schools, and operating offices. The island was first used as a port in 1927 when, in three weeks of day and night work, a runway was built to provide a take-off for the Army's mass flight to Hawaii. The present airport and channel are developments made by the city of Oakland largely with WPA labor.

 

Berkeley

Information Service: Chamber of Commerce, American Trust Bldg., Shattuck Ave. and Center St. Berkeley Travel Bureau, 81 Shattuck Sq. University of California administrative office, California Hall, U. of C. campus.

Railroad Stations: Southern Pacific, University Ave. and 3rd St. Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Ry., University Ave. and West St. Bus Stations: Pacific Greyhound Lines and National Trailways, 2001 San Pablo Ave. Taxis: Average rate 20¢ first ¼ m., 10¢ each ½ m. thereafter, 1 to 5 passengers. Streetcars and Buses: Fare 10¢ or one token (7 for 50¢); to Hayward, El Cerrito, or Richmond, 20¢ or 2 tokens. Transbay electric trains to San Francisco, fare 21¢. Traffic Regulations: 25 m.p.h. in residential and business districts, 15 m.p.h. at intersections; 1 and 2 hour parking limit in business districts, all-night parking prohibited in all areas.

Accommodations: Ten hotels.

Concert Halls: Wheeler Hall, U. of C. Greek Theatre, U. of C. Women's City Club, 2315 Durant Ave. Radio Stations: KRE (1370 kc), 601 Ashby Ave. Motion Picture Theaters (first-run): Two. Amateur and Little Theaters: Wheeler Hall, U. of C., for university productions. International House Auditorium, Piedmont Ave. and Bancroft Way. Women's City Club Little Theater, 2315 Durant Ave.

Archery: Albany Archers, Tilden Park (straw targets). Archery Range, East Shore Highway, Albany (small fee). Baseball: Diamonds at Berkeley High School, Grove St. and Bancroft Way, and many public playgrounds.

Boating: Berkeley Aquatic Park. Football: D. of C. Stadium, foot of Bancroft Way. Berkeley High School, Grove St. and Bancroft Way. Golf: Charles Lee Tilden Regional Park. Berkeley Country Club, E. end Cutting Blvd. Ice Skating and Hockey: Iceland, Shattuck Ave. and Ward St.

Bowling: Municipal Bowling Green, Allston Way W. of Acton St. Riding: Arlington Hills Riding Academy, Arlington and Brewster Dr. Athens Polo and Riding Stables, 1010 San Pablo Ave. Berkeley Riding Academy, 2731 Hilgard St. Fairmont Riding Academy, Colusa and Fairmount Aves. Softball: City playground, 2828 Grove St. City playground, Mabel and Oregon Sts., and many school playgrounds. Swimming: Berkeley High School, Grove St. and Bancroft Way (open June 15-Aug. 15). Tennis: U. of C. campus. Berkeley Tennis Club (private), Tunnel Rd. and Domingo Ave. Also following recreational areas: City Hall, Allston Way and Grove St.; Grove, 2828 Grove St.; Codornices, 1201 Euclid Ave.; James Kenney, 8th and Delaware Sts.; Live Oak, Shattuck Ave. and Berryman St.; San Pablo, Mabel and Oregon Sts.

Churches (Only centrally located churches are listed): Baptist. First, 2430 Dana St. Buddhist. Hegeshi Honganji, 1524 Oregon St. Christian. University, 1725 Scenic Ave. Christian Science. First Church of Christ, Scientist, Bowditch and Dwight Way. Mormon. Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints, 2150 Vine St. Congregational. First, 2345 Channing Way. Episcopal. St. Mark's, 2314 Bancroft Way. Evangelical. Mission Covenant, Grove and Parker Sts. Free Methodist. Japanese, 1521 Derby St. Hebrew Orthodox. Hebrew Center, 1630 Bancroft Way. Lutheran. Bethany, 1744 University Ave. Methodist. Trinity, Durant and Dana Sts. Presbyterian. First, Dana St. and Channing Way. Roman Catholic. St. Joseph's, 1600 Addison St. Russian Orthodox. St. John's, 2020 Dwight Way. Seventh Day Adventist. Berkeley Seventh Day Adventists, Dana and Haste Sts. Unitarian. First, 2425 Bancroft Way. Miscellaneous. Apostolic Church of the Faith of Jesus, 829 University Ave.; Immanuel Mission to Seamen, 1540 Lincoln St.; Plymouth Brethren Church, 42nd and Rich Sts.; Reihaisho Hershinto, 1707 Ward St.; Unity Center, 2315 Durant St.

BERKELEY (0-1,000 alt., 84,827 pop.) spreads across a great natural amphitheater opposite the Golden Gate, rising from the shore of the Bay eastward to the crest of the Berkeley hills, over which the fogs often drift in late afternoon. To the alumnus, as to the academic world in general, Berkeley means the University of California. But while the university is its outstanding feature, Berkeley is really three or four towns in one. There is the Berkeley of the retired old men and women who trespass on the wooden senior bench near the student union building on the campus and attend lectures where they can “absorb culture in homeopathic doses,” as the beloved Charles Mills Gayley used to say. There is the world of those who commute to business in San Francisco; and there is industrial Berkeley, clustered along the Bay west of San Pablo Avenue—a two and one-half mile strip of factories bearing well-known trade names. Around the fringe of this section are massed the homes of the factory workers. This part of Berkeley seems spiritually more akin to industrial Emeryville on the south or to oil-refining Richmond on the north than to the gay bustle of the streets surrounding the campus—streets thronged with men students in corduroys and gaudy sweaters, women students in mock peasant head kerchiefs and jaunty little half-socks.

Among the hills on either side of the campus are the handsome new fraternity and sorority houses, the more modest homes of the faculty, and rambling terraced gardens, almost hiding houses clinging perilously to the side of the hill.

The lower sections of Berkeley adjoining the campus, particularly on the southern side, are given over to student lodgings. Here every other house carries a sign, often “Rooms—Men Only.” The men, though harder on the furniture than the girls, are less of a responsibility, because the office of the Dean of Women keeps an eagle eye on the campus homes of undergraduate women. Or the sign may read “Coaching—Mathematics, Russian and Chemistry” or “Typing, Neatly and Cheaply Done.”

“Downtown” Berkeley lies along Shattuck Avenue; the main business district, because of the proximity of metropolitan shopping centers, is surprisingly small for a city of Berkeley's size. It changes slowly with the years, although the old steam trains that used to bring students from the city to their eight o'clock classes and the horse-cars that occasionally were derailed by students who wanted an excuse for being late have long since given way to modern electric cars. Even the old red-brick Southern Pacific station, which sat squarely in the middle of Shattuck Avenue, finally gave way to modern stores in 1939.

Berkeley owes its naming to the university. A hundred years ago the site was part of the great Rancho San Antonio of the Peralta family. When it was selected in 1866 as the new location of the College of California, Henry Durant, one of the trustees, gazing out over the Bay, quoted Bishop Berkeley's well-known line: “Westward the course of empire takes its way,” and another trustee suggested that they name the new town for the prophetic English philosopher. The village which grew up around the campus was not incorporated until 1878, organization having been delayed by farmers who rejected the idea of imposing the expense of municipal government upon them. By the turn of the century, however, streets had been paved, a reservoir built and pipes laid, residential tracts opened, and the electric trains supplemented the noisy and smoky locomotives of the Southern Pacific.

The San Francisco fire brought so many new residents that the town by 1908 was large enough to make an effort to get the State capital away from Sacramento. At the same time many attractive homes were being built among scattered clumps of oaks on the rising ground north and south of the campus. In the fall of 1923 a grass fire, starting in the hills, destroyed a large part of North Berkeley. New homes and gardens have gradually hidden the scars of the fire.

In the 1930 census the population figures were: 73 per cent native white, 23 per cent foreign white, 2 per cent Negro, and 2 per cent mixed. But the number of foreign students at the university is relatively high. In 1927, when International House was proposed, approximately 10 per cent of all the foreign students in the United States were registered at the University of California. The governments of Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa send many graduate students to Berkeley at government expense, most often to study soil chemistry or some other branch of agriculture. The Egyptian government sends students every year to study citriculture. Berkeley also draws many foreign students of engineering, particularly of petroleum engineering. Occasionally one sees East Indians of the commercial class walking respectfully behind and out of the shadow of the bearded and turbaned Sikhs of the military caste.

Berkeley became, in 1923, one of the first cities of its size in the United States to adopt the city-manager form of government. Its school department claims to have established the first junior high school in the country. Its standing in public health service is indicated by its proud boast that for two decades it has had one of the four lowest infant mortality rates among places of its size in the United States. But it prides itself most on its police department—built up by Police Chief August Vollmer, now retired—whose fame has extended as far away as Scotland Yard.

Vollmer encouraged his staff to experiment: as a member of the Berkeley police department in 1921 Dr. John A. Larson invented the lie-detector, a machine that records the tell-tale changes in heart action and breathing which usually accompany deviations from the truth. In 1921 Vollmer was elected president of the International Association of Chiefs of Police, and in 1929, although not himself a college graduate, he took leave of his command to head a department of research at the University of Chicago with the title of Professor of Police Administration—perhaps the first ever to hold such a title. Vollmer, who now gives regular courses in police administration at the University of California, is a firm believer in a college education for policemen—a fact which caused his men to be called “super-cops.” During summer sessions, it is not surprising to see a burly cop saunter out of a classroom, his gun on his hip and a student note book under his arm. As a result, Berkeley police have an unusual standing in the community.

POINTS OF INTEREST

1. The BERKELEY AQUATIC PARK (boating free with own craft; rowboats, sailboats, electric boats for hire), East Shore Highway between University and Ashby Aves., is a mile-long, ninety-acre recreational waterfront development built by WPA labor, containing a long, narrow, tide-filled lagoon with a landscaped border. In the southern end of the lagoon, set aside for model-yacht racing, regattas in which the diminutive copies of yachts compete are held occasionally. A small grass-covered island midway along the western shoreline is reserved as a wild fowl sanctuary.

2. The BERKELEY MUNICIPAL FISHING PIER (fee 5¢) extends more than three miles over the mud flats to deep water.

3. The BERKELEY YACHT HARBOR, north of the Municipal Fishing Pier, developed in part with WPA funds, will accommodate 500 small craft in waters protected by rock-faced earthen breakwaters.

4. The LAWN BOWLING GREEN, Allston Way west of Acton St., maintained by the city's Recreation Department, has been the scene of world championship tournaments.

5. MORTAR ROCK PARK, Indian Rock Ave. and San Diego Rd., once the site of Indian assemblages, is dominated by a huge irregular mass of rock, which commands a magnificent view of the surrounding territory. Here Indian women ground corn in the mortar-like rocks, whose smooth cylindrical holes still show the use to which they were put.

6. The seven-acre JOHN HINKEL PARK, Southampton Ave. and San Diego Rd., has an amphitheater seating 400, constructed in 1934 by the CWA, where plays are given by the Berkeley Community Players during the summer months.

7. CRAGMONT ROCK PARK, Regal Rd. at Hilldale Ave., covers four acres surrounding the freak rock formation for which the park was named. From the lookout station 800 feet above sea level is an excellent view of the Bay and its bridges. Easter sunrise services are held here.

8. CODORNICES (Sp., quail) PARK, Euclid Ave. at Bay View Pl., originally a steep, rocky, brush-grown gulch where quail were abundant, has been terraced by WPA workers as a rose garden, with tiers of roses of many varieties. The park has public tennis courts, a playground for children, and a clubhouse for community use.

9. The PACIFIC SCHOOL OF RELIGION (open to visitors on application), 1798 Scenic Ave., is a graduate theological seminary, interdenominational and coeducational, established in San Francisco in 1866 as the Pacific Theological Seminary. Moved the next year to Oakland, it was established here in 1925. Its present name was adopted in 1916 on its 50th anniversary. The school prepares students for all kinds of religious work. One department, known as the Palestine Institute, centers its activity in the Holy Land, where it is engaged in Biblical research.

The ADMINISTRATION BUILDING and the HOLBROOK MEMORIAL LIBRARY are of gray cut stone; the men's dormitory is of gray stucco. The library of 30,000 volumes includes a “Breeches” Bible, printed in Geneva in 1560; a group of Babylonian cuneiform tablets; a collection of fourth-century Biblical inscriptions on papyrus; and a rubbing of the inscription on the Nestorian monument in China. An archeological exhibit in the same building consists of relics dating from 3500 B.C.

For the past few years the Pacific Coast School for Workers has taken over the grounds of the Pacific School of Religion for its summer session. A member of the American Affiliated Schools for Workers, it is sponsored jointly by the Extension Division, labor organizations, the State Department of Education, and other interested bodies. Courses are conducted in San Francisco, but in the summer for six weeks union members come here from laundries, hotel kitchens, the water front, and other places of industrial activity to study economics, parliamentary law, and international affairs, in order to go back and better serve their organizations.

10. The HANGAR (adm. adults 25¢, children 10¢), 2211 Union St., “Mother” Tusch's aviation museum, is a little white cottage which has become a familiar spot to aviation fans. During the World War, when a school of military aeronautics was established on the campus, “Mother” Tusch founded the University Mothers’ Club to look after the boys away from their homes. Overseas flyers remembered the little white house and its motherly occupant, serving coffee and doughnuts, and sent her souvenirs from the battlefields. Among “Mother” Tusch's treasures is part of the fuselage of an Àrmy plane, on which is carved with a penknife the last message of its pilots, Lieutenant Fred Water-house and Cecil H. Connolly, who were forced down on the Mexican border in 1919. One of the most unusual tributes came from a German ace—a pair of silver wings, inscribed: “To the Mother of us all, with love from Capt. Willie Mauss.” Recent additions to the collection are the black sealskin cap worn by Admiral Richard Byrd in Little America and the small Bible which Lieutenant Clyde Pangborn carried on his flight around the world. On the walls of The Hangar are the signatures of Captain Eddie Rickenbacker, Colonel Billy Mitchell, Sir Hubert Wilkins, Byrd, Pangborn, and other famous flyers. Only one woman's autograph is there—that of Amelia Earhart.

11. BARRINGTON HALL, 2315 Dwight Way, is the largest of five co-operative dormitories built on the university campus during the depression. The five are organized into the California Students’ Cooperative Association, housing 365 men and 82 women. All the work is done by the members themselves, aided by one or two paid employees. Each student puts in about four hours of work each week, enabling him to obtain a room and three meals a day for about $22.50 a month.

12. The CALIFORNIA SCHOOL FOR THE DEAF, Warring and Parker Sts., at the foot of the Berkeley hills, is the only residential school of its kind in California. The course of study embraces a 12-year period, three years of which is preparatory work enabling the child to reach the level of the first grade of the public school system. The entire course is intended not only to give the handicapped child a general education, but also to prepare him for some occupation at which he can earn his living.

13. The CALIFORNIA SCHOOL FOR THE BLIND, 3001 Derby St., sharing the campus of the California School for the Deaf, serves visually handicapped children. Begun in San Francisco in 1860 as a private institution for the deaf, dumb and blind, it was taken over by the State in 1865 and moved to Berkeley two years later. Since 1922 it has been an institution solely for the blind.

14. The rambling, stuccoed CLAREMONT HOTEL, at the head of Russell St., erected in 1904, is surrounded by a large old-fashioned garden.

15. At the BERKELEY TENNIS CLUB (tournaments May-June, Sept.-Oct.), adjoining the Claremont Hotel, “Pop” Fuller developed two champion players, Helen Wills Moody and Helen Jacobs.

THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA

Until the turn of the century the University of California occupied a heterogeneous assortment of buildings at the base of the Berkeley Hills on oak-studded slopes traversed by two branches of Strawberry Creek; but in 1896 Phoebe Apperson Hearst awarded a prize of $10,000 for a campus design to Emile Bénard of Paris, and his general layout, with modifications, has since guided the development of the grounds. In 1902 John Galen Howard, an American architect who had studied at the École des Beaux Arts and had worked with Bénard, came to the university, established a School of Architecture, and became supervising architect. The architecture of the campus strongly reflects his influence. He changed many details of the Bénard plan, but French academic influence is apparent everywhere both in the buildings and in their relation to each other.

The beginning of the university dates to the California constitutional convention of 1849, when a clause was adopted providing for the establishment of a university. A subsequent delay of nearly 20 years was due partly to a controversy between those who wished to establish a “complete university” and those who wanted only a college of agriculture and mechanics. Meanwhile Oakland's College of California was chartered in 1855 by two ministers, Henry Durant and Samuel Hopkins Willey. Absorbing the Contra Costa Academy, it had in 1860 a faculty of six and a freshman class of eight. In 1867 the founders and trustees offered to disincorporate and transfer to the State all their assets—the buildings at Oakland, the 160-acre building site at Berkeley, and a 10,000-volume library. The State accepted the offer and on September 23, 1869 the new university opened in Oakland. In September, 1873 the buildings on the Berkeley campus were occupied by 40 students and a faculty of 10.

For many years the combined student enrollment of the University of California's various schools and colleges has made it the largest university in the country. In 1939-40, the enrollment of 16,199 on its Berkeley campus alone surpassed all others. Academically, the university ranks as one of the Nation's best. A survey made under the auspices of the American Council on Education in 1938 gave it a tie with Harvard for first place in a weighted rating of distinguished and adequate departments.

In the value of its “practical” contributions, the University of California has a fine record. Its benefits to agriculture alone are estimated to save California farmers $100,000,000 annually. In addition to experimental work in animal husbandry, horticulture, viticulture, and irrigation, the agricultural departments have developed and introduced to the farmer the spray plant, a device for spraying fruit trees and vegetation through underground pipes; the solar heater to prevent frost injury to orchard trees; the use of humified air for sterilizing dairy utensils; and a milk-cooling system. Boulder Dam, constructed under the direction of Dr. Elwood Mead, formerly of the university faculty, was built with a special low-heat cement developed in the Engineering Materials Testing Laboratory on the Berkeley campus. In the same laboratory test models of the San Francisco-Oakland Bay Bridge and the Golden Gate Bridge were made, while professors of geology were investigating the strata upon which the bridge foundations would rest. Materials used in Boulder Dam, the bridges, and many other public works were first tested by the university's materials testing machine, capable of exerting a pressure of 4,000,000 pounds. The engineering department, cooperating with the United States War Department, compiles data obtained at the university's hydraulic tidal testing basin to aid in the maintenance of ship channels and the preservation of beaches. In its laboratories was developed an improved method of treating leprosy. Vitamin E and the growth- and sex-stimulating hormones of the pituitary glands were discovered by Dr. Herbert M. Evans of the Institute of Experimental Biology. Through experiments conducted in university laboratories, the canning industry overcame botulism, the sugar beet pest was conquered, and the mealy bug eliminated from citrus groves.

Other studies include: consideration of the atmosphere on Mars; a study of living organisms found in a solid rock 225,000,000 years old; translation of a clay tablet from Mesopotamia, which upset accepted theories of how Babylon was governed. Less spectacular are the studies of unemployment, the migrant, and agricultural labor made at the request of State and local authorities by the Bureau of Public Administration, a pioneer in training students for government service.

Perhaps no contemporary piece of abstruse research so captured the imagination of the lay public and the respect of the world's scientists as did the invention of the “atom smasher” or cyclotron by Dr. E. O. Lawrence of the Radiation Laboratory of the Department of Physics. Dr. Lawrence has realized the dream of the alchemist of old, the transmutation of the elements, by bombarding them with his atom smasher. He has already achieved successful production of artificial radioactive elements in sufficient quantities to provide a cheap synthetic substitute for radium. Experiments are still being conducted in the use of the mysterious “neutron ray” in the treatment of cancer. For his work with the cyclotron, Dr. Lawrence was awarded the Nobel Prize for Physics in 1939. In the field of medico-therapy Dr. Lawrence and his staff have also developed a new type of X-ray apparatus capable of producing a continuous supply of X-rays with an energy approaching 1,000,000 volts, for treatment of tumorous growths.

Gifts to the university have been the basis for the establishment of its various schools and colleges—all, with the exception of those at Los Angeles and Berkeley, devoted to specialized fields of study. The Medical School, the Colleges of Pharmacy and Dentistry, the Training School for Nurses, and the Hooper Foundation for Medical Research are located in San Francisco, as are the affiliated College of Fine Arts and Hasting's College of Law. The College of Agriculture has, besides the curricula at Berkeley and Los Angeles, a farm at Davis, the Citrus Experiment Station at Riverside, the Institution of Animal Husbandry at Pomona, and the Forest Station in Tulare County. At Mount Hamilton is the Lick Observatory; at La Jolla, the Institution of Oceanography. Perhaps the most significant evidence of growth was the establishment of the southern branch of the university in Los Angeles in 1919. Beginning with freshmen and sophomore work, it added advanced curricula as the need arose, until in 1927 it received equal rank with the Berkeley institution as the University of California at Los Angeles. Today, in the words of a recent university publication, a California student pursues his studies at whatever campus, school, or research station best suits his needs, because California “has grown from a local school to a state-wide clearing house of knowledge gathered from all corners of the earth.”

The Golden Book of the Alumni Association, published in 1936, listed alumni in the four corners of the earth, including a chief engineer for public works in Madras, the manager of a government ranch at Bagdad, a cotton breeder for the Department of Agriculture in Bombay, a chief of the Associated Press for the Balkans, a gold-dredging expert in New Guinea, and a professor in Leningrad College. David Prescott Barrows, Chairman of the Department of Political Science, tells a story which illustrates the way in which alumni bob up in the most unexpected places. In 1917 he was assistant chief of staff in the American Expeditionary Force in Siberia. After an interview with General Semenoff, in charge of White Russian forces at Chita, General Barrows was assigned, as aide-de-camp, a magnificent-looking Cossack dressed in Asiatic splendor. General Barrows was amazed to hear him say mildly, in excellent English, “You don't know me, General, but I have seen you many times on the Berkeley campus. I was a student for two years at your College of Mining.”

CAMPUS POINTS OF INTEREST

I. The PRESIDENT'S HOUSE (private), Hearst Ave. and Scenic Ave., built in 1911 for use as the official residence of the university's executive head, stands on a slight eminence near the north edge of the campus. It is of grey-brown sandstone, with a portico supported by Ionic columns and guarded by marble lions.

2. AGRICULTURE, HILGARD, AND GIANNINI HALLS, built in Italian Renaissance style of white concrete, range around a C-shaped open court near the northwest corner of the campus. They house the College of Agriculture and the Agricultural Extension Division. Nearby are greenhouses (open to students only) for experimental work. In the corridors of Giannini Hall is a display of colored hardwoods from many parts of the world.

3. The LIFE SCIENCES BUILDING, Harmon Way between Axis Rd. and Campanile Way, is a massive concrete structure, completed in 1930. On the facade are panels and rosettes in which have been cast conventionalized representations of fish, reptiles, and mammals. Laboratories, classrooms, offices, and libraries of 13 life-science departments occupy the building, which also houses the Institute of Experimental Biology; the Museum of Vertebrate Zoology (for students only) with its 160,000 specimens of mammals, birds, and reptiles; and the herbarium of the Department of Botany (open 8:30-12, 1-5; Sat. 8:30-12), containing some 500,000 plant specimens from all over the world.

4. The TILDEN FOOTBALL STATUE, Campanile Way west of Life Sciences Bldg., is a bronze statue of two rugby players, by Douglas Tilden, presented by Senator James D. Phelan in recognition of the superiority of the university football teams of 1898-99.

5. The GYMNASIUM FOR MEN, Dana St. between Bancroft and Allston Ways, completed in 1933, has large gymnasium floors and swimming pool, special rooms for wrestling, boxing, and fencing and space for badminton and table tennis. Adjoining it are a baseball diamond and the George C. Edwards Memorial Stadium for track and field sports.

6. SATHER GATE, at the head of Telegraph Ave., most used entrance to the campus, is an ornamental structure of concrete and bronze, erected in 1909 with funds provided by Jane K. Sather as a memorial to her husband, Peder Sather. “To go outside the gate” is an established tradition for student assemblies which do not have the sanction of the university authorities.

7. The ART GALLERY (open weekdays 10-5), one block E. of Sather Gate, is a former power house. The two large mosaics on the facade, symbolizing the seven arts, were designed and executed in Byzantine style by Helen Bruton and Florence Swift, assisted by workers of the WPA Federal Art Project. The gallery owns the Albert Bender collection of oriental art and a collection of Russian ikons.

8. BOALT HALL, Sather Gate Dr. between Axis Rd. and South Dr., housing the School of Jurisprudence, honors the memory of Judge John Henry Boalt.

9. CALIFORNIA HALL, Sather Gate Dr., now the university's administrative headquarters, will become part of the School of Jurisprudence after completion of a new administration building on Telegraph Avenue outside Sather Gate. On the walls of the first floor corridor and auditorium are portraits of notable teachers, regents, and others associated with the history of the university.

10. The UNIVERSITY LIBRARY (open weekdays 8-10, Sat. 8-6, Sun. 1-10; fee for non-students, $6 a year), Sather Gate Dr., a large white granite building, has over 1,000,000 volumes. It is the largest college library west of the Mississippi and the seventh in the United States. Besides the main collection there are the Bancroft Library, a world-famous collection of more than 75,000 valuable books and manuscripts on Spanish-American history, the nucleus of which was bought from the historian, Hubert Howe Bancroft, in 1905; the Library of Economic Research; the Library of French Thought, whose basis was the books exhibited by the French government at the Pan-American Exposition in 1915; and the Alexander F. Morrison Memorial Library, reserved for student “browsing.” The reference room extends the full north width of the second floor. In the periodical room along the east side of the second floor are 45 copies of famous Velasquez paintings.

11. WHEELER HALL, Sather Gate Dr., main classroom building, contains an auditorium seating 1,050, used for lectures, concerts, and plays. It is named for Benjamin Ide Wheeler, president of the university from 1899-1919.

12. SOUTH HALL, W. Esplanade at South Dr., oldest building on the campus, was constructed in 1873. It houses the offices and some classrooms of the College of Commerce and the departments of political science and of economics.

13. The CAMPANILE (elevator 9-5, fee 10¢), as Sather Tower is commonly known, may be called the heart of campus life. It is a shaft of gleaming California granite 302 feet high, with four clock faces and an observation platform. It was built in 1914 as a gift of Jane K. Sather, donor of Sather Gate. Its clock bell orders the university day from morning to night. When the university celebrates its birthday on March 23 and at commencement the chimes ring “Hail to California.” On the evening before final examinations begin, the mournful notes of “Danny Deever” give notice of impending tragedies; but during finals the chimes are tactfully silent. Consisting of twelve bells, the chimes were cast in England by John Taylor and Company, who have been casting bells since the days of Chaucer. Charles Weikel, former chimesmaster, wrote and arranged many compositions for them. In the ground-floor room of the Campanile hangs a plan of the campus, made in 1914 by John Galen Howard, university architect.

14. STEPHENS UNION, Campanile Esplanade on South Dr., a concrete building in Tudor Gothic style, was built in 1921 by popular subscription as a memorial to Henry Morse Stephens, distinguished historian and long a popular faculty member. Here are the offices, “co-op” store, and restaurant of the Associated Students, and the headquarters of the California Alumni Association and its magazine, The California Monthly. A display case in the men's club room is the part-time home of the Stanford axe, a huge, broad-bitted lumberman's axe, for whose custodianship the California and Stanford football teams contend in the annual “Big Game.” Originally used by Stanford rooters to emphasize the famous “axe” yell, it was captured by California students at a baseball game in 1899. For 31 years it remained in a bank vault, brought out only under heavy guard to taunt the enemy from “the farm,” until Stanford students regained it in a tear-gas raid while it was being returned to its resting place. After this melée the two student bodies made a gentleman's agreement, whereby the axe became the “Big Game” trophy.

15. Neighboring ESHLEMAN HALL houses offices of the Little Theater and student publications. This structure, erected in 1930, honors the late John Morton Eshleman, alumnus and one-time lieutenant-governor.

16. The PHOEBE A. HEARST GYMNASIUM FOR WOMEN, Bancroft Way and Bowditch St., provides women students with facilities for badminton, table tennis, and many other activities in its gymnasiums and swimming pools. On the spacious grounds outside, groups of students often engage in tennis, hockey, archery, and interpretive dancing.

17. FACULTY GLADE, between Stephens Union and Men's Faculty Club, is a velvety green sward, shaded by Coast live oaks, along the landscaped banks of Strawberry Creek. For many years the Partheneia, an original pageant, was staged here by women students. Max Reinhardt presented A Midsummer Night's Dream here in 1935. Alumni luncheons are served in the glade on Commencement Day. The arch over the steps leading into the glade from South Drive was erected in 1910 in memory of Phoebe Apperson Hearst, mother of the publisher and benefactress of the university.

18. Red-brick BACON HALL, E. Esplanade at South Drive, is the second oldest building on the campus. Today it is the headquarters for the Department of Geological Sciences and the Division of Seismology. It also houses the Geological Sciences Exhibit (open weekdays 8:30-12, 1-5; Sat. 8:30-12).

19. The HEARST MEMORIAL MINING BUILDING, north of the Mining Circle, was donated by Phoebe Apperson Hearst in 1907 as a memorial to her husband, Senator George Hearst. The plant has unusually fine equipment for the study of mining engineering, including the LAWSON ADIT, a model tunnel which affords mining students practical experience in mine-fire and rescue work. The building contains the Museum of Paleontology (open weekdays 8-5; Sat. 9-12), which has the largest collection of vertebrate and invertebrate fossils on the Pacific Coast.

20. FOUNDERS ROCK, near Hearst and La Loma Aves., is the spot where trustees of the College of California met April 16, 1860 and dedicated the site of the campus to learning. It is marked by a bronze plaque, gift of the class of ‘96.

21. The GREEK THEATER, in a natural amphitheater half hidden in the eucalyptus grove above Gayley Road, seats 8,500. It is an adaptation of the ancient theater at Epidaurus. The enormous stage, 133 feet wide and 28 feet deep, is protected at back and sides by a 42-foot wall (the ancient skene), in front of which is a row of Doric columns. Half surrounded by tiers of concrete benches is the pit (the ancient orchestra), before the stage, where huge bonfires are built at student rallies. The theater, a gift of William Randolph Hearst, was first used—although only one-third finished—at commencement in 1903, when Theodore Roosevelt delivered the address. At its dedication in September of that year, students set the tone for its future use by presenting selections from Aristophanes’ comedy, The Birds. The theater is used for university exercises and student rallies as well as dramatic and concert performances.

22. The BIG C, far up on Charter Hill behind the Greek Theater, is a concrete letter 60 feet high, made and maintained by undergraduates as their university symbol. Painted yellow, it shows up strongly against the background of the hillside. The C was constructed in 1905 by men of the freshman and sophomore classes, who relayed buckets of gravel and cement up the hill in a drenching rain. It was reached only by a steep trail until 1916, when 2,500 students built a zigzag path up the slope in two hours on the day of the quadrennial “Big C Sirkus,” February 29. It is now illuminated on pre-game nights, when members of the sophomore class—its official guardians—maintain an all-night vigil to ward off marauders.

23. The MEMORIAL STADIUM, at the mouth of Strawberry Canyon, seats 78,000. Built by popular subscription as a memorial to the university's World War dead, it was first used at the “Big Game” of 1923. On the east side of the field, below the California rooting section, is the ANDREW LATHAM SMITH MEMORIAL BENCH, dedicated in 1927 in honor of the coach of the “wonder teams” of the early 1920’s. Unused for the most part except during the football season, the stadium is the scene of commencement exercises each spring.

24. The BOTANICAL GARDENS (open 9-4), in Strawberry Canyon east of the stadium, contain more than 50,000 plants of 6,000 species, including special collections of rhododendrons, cacti, and succulents. Plants of rare beauty and value have been brought to the university from such remote places as the Tibetan Himalayas and the South American Andes. An OPEN-AIR THEATER, in a five-acre grove of pine and redwood trees, is a memorial to Stephen Mather, alumnus, who was first director of the National Park Service.

25. INTERNATIONAL HOUSE, on Piedmont Ave. at the head of Bancroft Way, is the second of four such institutions donated by John D. Rockefeller Jr. in the interests of international understanding. Others are located at Columbia University in New York, at the University of Chicago, and at the Cité Universitaire in Paris. The Berkeley building provides living accommodations for 450 students, selected from among the many races and nationalities registered at the university. The number of American students is limited in order to provide room for foreign students.

 

Alameda

Information Service: Chamber of Commerce, 2546 Santa Clara Ave. City Hall, Oak St. and Santa Clara Ave.

Airports: San Francisco Bay Airdrome, Webster St., one block S. of Posey Tube; Naval Air Station, W. end of island. Taxis: Dime Taxi Company, 10¢ per passenger to any point within city limits, 35¢ to Oakland; Alameda Taxi Company, 25¢ 1st m., 20¢ thereafter, 1 to 4 persons. Streetcars and Buses: Key system local and intercity buses, fare 10¢ or one token (7 for 50¢); Interurban Electric Ry. transbay service on Encinal and Lincoln Aves., fare to San Francisco, 21¢. Traffic Regulations: Speed limit 25 m.p.h. in business and residential districts, 15 m.p.h. at intersections.

Accommodations: One hotel. Beach cottages, monthly rates.

Concert Halls: Adelphian Club, 2167 Central Ave. Motion Picture Theaters: Three first-run theaters. Little Theater: Alameda Little Theater, Delanoy Hall, 1346½ Park St.

Sports: Boating. Aeolian Yacht Club, Bay Farm Island Bridge. Alameda Boat Club, N. end of Chestnut St. Encinal Yacht Club, S. end Grand St. Golf. Municipal Golf Course, Bay Farm Island. Riding Stables. Alameda Riding Stables, Bay Farm Island. Skeet and Trap Shooting. Golden Gate Gun Club, W. end of island on Southern Pacific Auto Ferry road. Swimming. Cottage Beach, 554 Central Ave. Leo Purcell's Beach, 434 Central Ave. Sunny Cove Beach, 456 Central Ave. Yachting. Aeolian Yacht Club, Bay Farm Island. Encinal Yacht Club, S. end Grand St.

Churches (Only centrally located churches are listed): Baptist. First, 1519 Santa Clara Ave. Christian. First, 2445 San Jose Ave. Christian Science. First Church of Christ Scientist, Central Ave. and Walnut St. Congregational. First, 1912 Central Ave. Episcopal. Christ Church, 1700 Santa Clara Ave. Hebrew Orthodox. Temple Israel, 2664 Alameda Ave. Lutheran. Immanuel, 1906 Santa Clara Ave. Methodist. First, Central Ave. and Oak St. Presbyterian. First, Santa Clara Ave. and Chestnut St. Roman Catholic. St. Josephs, 1109 Chestnut St. Seventh Day Adventist. Alameda Seventh Day Adventists, 1513 Verdi St.

ALAMEDA (sea level-25 alt., 35,133 pop.), is on an island shaped roughly like an elongated violin, lying parallel to East Oakland, with the neck pointing toward the Golden Gate. The island has an average width of about one mile, a total length of six and one-half miles. The two-mile neck and adjoining areas are chiefly occupied by two large airports. The northeast shoreline, along the Estuary, is given over to industry and shipping, while the southwestern shoreline is a popular bathing resort section. Although no State or Federal highway touches Alameda, five vehicular connections link it with the mainland. The five miles of the Estuary and two miles of artificially created tidal canal separating the island from the mainland serve as a deep-water harbor for both Oakland and Alameda. Three bridges cross the canal. Another connects with Bay Farm Island to the south. But the most frequently used entrance is the George A. Posey Tube under the Estuary.

Many residents do not know that the city proper was a peninsula until the tidal canal was dredged in 1902. More are unaware that its boundaries include a mainland agricultural district called Bay Farm Island, which now adjoins the filled-in Oakland Municipal Airport. Government Island, once a shoal off the main part of the city, now lies across the main channel of the Estuary, approachable by bridge only from Oakland.

Alameda is one of the oldest East Bay cities, and also one of the most modern. The contrast is found in schools and homes. Modern houses and apartments elbow ornate old buildings set in tranquil gardens on tree-shaded streets. Queer shrubs from foreign ports are common because the city is a well-known “port of retire” for old seamen, who settled here with souvenirs of travel.

All this flat expanse of fertile land, with its numerous sloughs and clumps of big drooping valley oaks, for generations gave shade and food and water to the Costanoan Indians. Included in the Peralta land grant of 1820, it was known as Encinal de San Antonio (the oak grove of St. Anthony) when Americans came here and found, grazing in the lush pasture land, many cattle branded with the Peralta initial. Waterfowl and small game attracted hunters, who found a ready market in San Francisco for their kill, and the thick stands of oaks brought in crews of charcoal burners, who likewise had no difficulty in marketing their product in the growing transbay city and in the Mother Lode's boom towns.

Among the early arrivals were Gideon Aughinbaugh, a Pennsylvania carpenter, and his partner, W. W. Chipman, a lawyer and school teacher from Ohio, who recognized the possibilities of the region. Through the flimsy walls of one of the kindling and cardboard shanties of early San Francisco, Chipman overheard H. S. Fitch, a San Francisco auctioneer, negotiating with Antonio Peralta for the purchase of the Encinal at a price of $7,000. Chipman immediately sought out Peralta and doubled the bid. By this bit of shrewdness the future city of Alameda passed into the hands of the partners, Chipman and Aughinbaugh. They needed money, however, and to obtain it offered Fitch a one-fourteenth interest for $3,000. Fitch accepted, and in partnership with William Sharon took possession of 160 acres.

Chipman and Aughinbaugh began to develop the land and to attract settlers. Grafted fruit trees were brought from the East (there are accounts of peaches in Aughinbaugh's orchard which sold for one dollar each). He secured the use of a small steamer, the Bonita, which plied between Alameda and San Francisco. Sunday excursions, watermelon picnics, and gift lots to any one who would erect a $50 building were some of the devices used to further development. With more than 100 settlers by 1853, Chipman and Aughinbaugh took the initiative in founding a town in the vicinity of High Street.

The name, Alameda (poplar-shaded avenue), already in use by the recently organized county, was selected by popular vote. Two other towns also were laid out—one at the Point, named Woodstock, the other at the center of the peninsula, called Encinal.

With the increase of American population in California, the little hamlet, along with its neighbors, Oakland and San Leandro, got its share of new settlers, many of whom, returning unsuccessful from the mines, were looking for homes and land. In 1871 a bridge over the Estuary and a causeway across the marsh were constructed, establishing directed communication with Oakland. Incorporation took place in 1872. The city-manager form of government was adopted in 1917.

In the course of its history Alameda has counted among its residents Mark Twain, Jack London, and Harrison Fisher. The starting point for Robert Louis Stevenson's journeys to the South Seas, it figured prominently in his career. He first came here to visit the Orr family (Scots, like himself), who operated a copra oil mill. Because copra came from the South Sea islands, he grew interested in island lore and outfitted a ship, the Casco, to sail there under command of the New England skipper, Captain Albert Otis. Captain Otis, whose own declining years were spent in Alameda, was immortalized as Arty Nares in Stevenson's The Wreckers. The novelist later married a sister of Mrs. Orr, in Alameda.

The island's excellent water connections have attracted many large industries, including the shipbuilding yards of the Bethlehem Steel Company and the warehouses of the California Packing Corporation, through which most of the products of the corporation's canneries in the Bay area and central valleys are transshipped to other parts of the country and abroad. Adjoining Cal-Pak's spacious buildings is the Encinal Terminal, which it owns, where more than 1,200 ships dock annually. Close by also are the warehouse and docks of the Alaska Packer's Association, which annually sends an expedition to the fishing waters of Alaska, returning with as many as 1,000,000 cases of canned salmon. Boat yards build yachts and other pleasure craft. Numerous plants turn out such diverse products as pottery, pencils, pickles, preserves, peanut butter, and chocolates.

Alameda was one of the first cities in the country to macadamize its streets. It had the first municipal power plant in California, established in 1890 at a cost of $40,000, which, during 50 years of operation, has earned profits of nearly $3,000,000, used in the construction of many public services and buildings. A health center, a belt line railroad, a public library, a fire-alarm system, a park, and the Municipal Golf Course are some of its contributions to the well-being of Alameda's citizens.

POINTS OF INTEREST

1. The BETHLEHEM STEEL COMPANY SHIPBUILDING DIVISION (no visitors), 2308 Webster St., was at one time the largest shipbuilding yard on the Pacific Coast, employing 9,000 men. During the World War it built the Invincible, a 12,000-ton steamer, in 24 days. Long used as a repair yard, it is being refitted to do its part in the Government's 1940 naval expansion program. From the adjoining steel fabricating plant came all the steel for the Golden Gate Bridge.

2. The SAN FRANCISCO BAY AIRDROME, 2155 Webster St., privately owned, houses several charter, sales, and service companies. Between 80 and 90 ships, passenger and private, are based here, many being available for sightseeing trips around the Bay.

3. The NAVAL AIR STATION (visitors only on special occasions), on Southern Pacific Auto Ferry Rd., will be one of the world's largest airports when completed in 1942. Costing more than $15,000,-000 and incorporating both the former Benton Field of the Army and the Municipal Airport, it will have a total area of more than three square miles, of which 881 acres will be land. A 9,000-foot sea wall will protect the shoreline and a 2,400-foot rock-wall jetty will form a large lagoon for seaplanes. Two piers will be able to accommodate the Navy's largest aircraft carriers. The base will contain eight land plane hangars with four main runways, five huge seaplane hangars facing the lagoon, administrative buildings, a small-arms arsenal, storehouses, and quarters for approximately 5,000 officers and enlisted men. Two patrol squadrons numbering 24 seaplanes and three airplane carriers, each with 75 fighting planes, will make this their base of operations. The first China Clipper flight began here November 22, 1935, when the airport was a base for the Pan American Airways System.

4. The GOLDEN GATE GUN CLUB (targets: 60¢ to members, 70¢ to non-members; picnic grounds; club rooms), with eight traps and three skeet fields, occupies 160 acres at the extreme west end of Alameda Island on the Southern Pacific Auto Ferry Road.

5. WASHINGTON PARK (picnic grounds; tennis courts; baseball diamond; cinder track; club house), Central Ave. and Eighth St., Alameda's largest municipal recreation center, is bounded on the Bay side by a public bathing beach (lifeguard during summer months; no lockers). Professional baseball was played here for the first time in California, and from this diamond have come some of the present big names in baseball: Johnny Vergez, Dick Bartell, Lou Vezelick, and Al Browne. The Alameda Girls Softball Team has twice been crowned United States National champion.

West of Washington Park is the SITE OF NEPTUNE BEACH formerly a popular amusement park, now a residential subdivision. An outgrowth of Neptune Gardens and Croll's Gardens, it was the mecca for boxing and wrestling fans. John L. Sullivan, Bob Fitzsimmons, Jim Corbett, Kid McCoy, Billy Muldoon, Farmer Burns, and Frank Gotch all came here to rest and train.

6. The ENCINAL YACHT CLUB, S. end of Grand St., founded in 1891, sponsors sailing events, and has anchorage for small yachts and other pleasure craft.

7. The 130 members of the AEOLIAN YACHT CLUB, E. end of Calhoun St., take part in frequent class and handicap races and in cruises to Bay, river, and coast points. The Aeolian Juniors, made up of boys under 21, conduct races and regattas with their own fleet, under supervision of junior officers. Many of them have built their own boats.

8. The 18-hole ALAMEDA MUNICIPAL GOLF COURSE (greens fee: Sat., Sun., holidays, 75¢; weekdays, 50¢) is on Bay Farm Island directly across the bridge from Alameda.

9. INDIAN MOUND STONE MOUNMENT, in Lincoln Park on High St. at E. end of Santa Clara Ave., commemorates the site of a former Indian shell mound that measured 150 by 400 feet. The mound was leveled in 1908 and the earth and mussel shells used on the roads of Bay Farm Island. The site, now under nearby homes and streets, is indistinguishable. The mound rose 14 feet above the level ground. From it were taken the remains of 450 Indians, all of whom had been buried facing the rising sun with knees drawn up to chins. Near the top was a brass counter bearing the image of George II and dated 1768, which possibly was brought here by Indians in contact with the Hudson's Bay Company.

10. The ALAMEDA PUBLIC LIBRARY, Santa Clara Ave. and Oak St., has a collection of nearly 100,000 volumes, including some valuable Californiana. Relics salvaged from the Indian shell mound, including shell ornaments, cooking implements and a 172-year-old brass counter, are on display.

11. The ALAMEDA BOAT CLUB, foot of Chestnut St., on the Estuary, was established in 1864 as a center for racing shells. Today (1940) the principal activity of its 100 members is participation in motorboat races sponsored by other clubs.

12. The SHIP GRAVEYARDS on the Estuary, N. end of Schiller St. and foot of a rutted, sandy road leading from end of St. Charles St., are the final resting places for many ancient, worn-out vessels. Here is the long-idle Unimak, built in 1902 in Alameda, a 124-foot steam schooner that once pushed her way bravely through the ice of an early Alaska winter, homeward bound and loaded to the beams with the season's salmon pack. Here are the Kadiak, a sturdy tug that once worked the Alaska waters, and the unnamed grey hulk called No. 30, once a water-carrier in the United States Navy. In contrast to these are rows of steel and wooden ships maintained in a state of idle preparedness, awaiting the command to fire the boilers.

13. The 100-acre GOVERNMENT ISLAND (visitors welcome Sat. p.m. and Sun.) in the Estuary, reached by way of the Dennison Street Bridge from Oakland, is the base for a major United States Coast Guard Station, with more than 100 men and seven patrol boats and three Coast Guard cutters on duty. Located here are divisions of the United States Forestry Service and of the United States Public Roads Administration, and a merchant marine school for which the Northland, Coast Guard vessel, serves as a training ship. The island was made when the Estuary was dredged in 1916.

In the ADMINISTRATION BUILDING are frescoes by Beckford Young and John Haley depicting the history of road-building and activities of the Coast Guard and the Forestry Service, done under the WPA Art Project.

 

East Bay Tour 1

Oakland—El Cerrito—Richmond—Crockett—Martinez—Pittsburg—Antioch; 50.5 m. US 40, County road, State 4-24.

Paved throughout.

Southern Pacific R. R. and Santa Fe Ry. parallel the route between Oakland and Antioch. Pacific Greyhound Bus Lines serve the area.

 

From the flat western sections of Oakland and Berkeley, this route follows the contours of San Francisco Bay, San Pablo Bay, Carquinez Strait, and Suisun Bay, passing residential, industrial, and “company” towns in rapid succession—traversing a district whose petroleum-laden atmosphere indicates immense oil storage tanks and great oil refineries—and ends at the gateway to the rich garden region of the San Joaquin delta.

The touring center of OAKLAND, 0 m., is San Pablo Ave., Broadway, and Fourteenth Street.

North from San Pablo Ave., Broadway, and Fourteenth St. on Broadway to Moss Ave.; R. on Moss Ave.; L. on Oakland Ave. to PIEDMONT 1.8 m. (800 alt., 9,339 pop.), contoured to glen and upland, a municipal island entirely surrounded by Oakland. Strictly residential, its stately mansions and vine-clad cottages set in terraced gardens border streets that wind in a bewildering maze through canyons, across ridges, and around knolls. Like Oakland, Piedmont was once a part of the 43,472-acre Rancho San Antonio (see Oakland). Walter Blair, a New Englander, purchased the site for a ranch in 1852 at $1.25 an acre and in 1870 James Gamble divided it into town lots.

Thirteen-acre PIEDMONT PARK (community hall, playground, tennis courts), in the approximate center of the city, is irrigated by a sulphur spring, around which a health resort was built in 1876. Within the park are the largest collection of wild irises in the State and a one-acre sanctuary for Alameda County wild flowers.

North from San Pablo Ave., Broadway, and Fourteenth St. in Oakland, on San Pablo Ave., to EMERYVILLE, 2 m. (sea level-60 alt., 2,399 pop.), a highly industrialized municipality dating from the middle 1870’s when the Oakland Trotting Track and the picnic grounds at Shellmound Park “in the vicinity of Butchertown” were the chief attractions. In the park, surmounting a large Indian shellmound, stood a dance pavilion. Frequent fairs, circuses and exhibitions; National shooting tournaments; festivals of the Swedish and Caledonian Societies with bagpipe and haggis; and the Butchers’ Annual Celebration all brought throngs to Golden Gate Village, as the community was then known. In 1896 it became Emeryville, named for Joseph Stickney Emery, early resident and architect of the San Francisco mint.

In that same year the California Jockey Club purchased the Oakland Trotting Track and changed it to a running track. There was grief in Emeryville when State legislative action abolished horse-racing in 1911; but this blow was a blessing in disguise. The race track properties brought handsome prices as these level acres near two transcontinental railroads attracted industry. Now (1940) there are 120 industries, one for every 21 inhabitants. There is neither church, theater, hospital, nor cemetery. Population is decreasing but every razed residence signalizes the coming of a new industry or the expansion of an old one.

BERKELEY, 3.2 m. (sea level-1,300 alt., 84,827 pop.) (see BERKELEY).

Right from Berkeley on Ashby Ave.—State 24—which becomes Tunnel Rd., to Broadway; L. on Broadway.

The twin bores of the BROADWAY LOW LEVEL TUNNEL, West Portal at 4.8 m. (see Emporium of a New World: Engineering Enterprise), serve the opposing lines of traffic. Since completion of this tunnel in 1937, many people employed in the metropolitan area have chosen the sheltered slopes and valleys beyond it for home sites. From the tunnel's East Portal, State 24 descends the canyon of the west branch of San Pablo Creek through low hills.

At 7.5 m. is a junction with paved Moraga Road.

Right here, over a low pass into the orchard lands of Moraga Valley, is MORAGA, 4.5 m. (475 alt., 61 pop.), a little village whose site was once part of the 13,316-acre Rancho Laguna de los Palos Colorados (Lagoon of the red trees), granted jointly to Joaquin Moraga and Jose Bernal in 1835.

The route continues L. from Moraga on a paved road to ST. MARY'S COLLEGE, 6 m., on a 500-acre campus in an arm of Moraga Valley, through which flows Las Trampas (the frauds) Creek. The $2,000,000 group of buildings designed in California mission style (John J. Donovan, architect) was dedicated in 1928. Springing from the little school opened by Reverend John T. Harrington in 1855 in the basement of old St. Mary's in San Francisco, the present St. Mary's College has grown to include a chain of State-wide preparatory schools and colleges, now administered by the Brothers of the Christian Schools, who assumed control of St. Mary's in 1868. Brother Leo, widely known as a lecturer and an authority on Dante, is a member of the faculty. Of the average student enrollment of five hundred, most major in arts and letters.

In the KEITH MEMORIAL GALLERY are hung thirty-three paintings, eight oil sketches and studies, and several drawings by William Keith, San Francisco artist who died in 1911 (see Golden Era: Art and Artists).

The CHAPEL OF OUR LADY OF MORAGA is surmounted by a 120-foot tower and a dome of many-colored tile. In the interior, modeled after a church at Monreale, Sicily, is an elaborately designed marble altar.

MADIGAN GYMNASIUM occupies one corner of a large athletic field, where the “Gaels” of football fame are trained. It is named for Coach “Slip” Madigan, under whose tutelage St. Mary's teams won renown.

Northeast of its junction with Moraga Road, State 24 climbs by an easy grade into the canyon of the Lafayette branch of Walnut Creek.

LAFAYETTE, 11.4 m. (200 alt., 750 pop.), is an agricultural trading community and suburban town. In 1848 Elam Brown, immigrant train captain, purchased the 3,500-acre Rancho Acalanes from Candelario Valencia, and sold a tenth of the rancho to Nathaniel Jones. The two erected frame buildings to begin the town.

State 24 cuts through the foothills of Lafayette Ridge across Reesley Valley to Walnut Creek 14.8 m. (147 alt., 1,014 pop.), at the southern end of Ygnacio Valley. The business center parallels the creek; the residential section rises into low hills. Because of its location at crossroads the first American settlers gave the town the terse Yankee name of “The Corners.” Later the English equivalent of the earlier Spanish name, Arroyo de las Nueces (gully of the nuts), was restored because of the many native hard-shell California walnuts growing along Walnut Creek. Walnut culture, a thriving industry that centers here, began when pioneer growers first grafted the English walnut to hardy young native trees. Many kinds of fruit also are cultivated in the rich valley soil, and there are numerous poultry farms in the region.

South of Walnut Creek, State 21 follows narrow San Ramon Valley between the foothills of Mount Diablo (L) and Las Trampas Ridge (R).

In ALAMO, 18.4 m. (272 alt., 69 pop.), giant maple trees shade the main street, although the village was named by Spaniards for the cottonwoods growing abundantly hereabout. The first adobe built here (about 1848) became in 1853 the only post office between Martinez and Mission San Jose; the mail was delivered by horse and cart twice a week.

Visible at 20.4 m. is TAO HOUSE (private), home of playwright Eugene O'Neill. The white palatial residence stands on a hillside (R) overlooking the road.

DANVILLE, 21 m. (365 alt., 600 pop.), a trading center, was named after Danville, Kentucky.

The side route continues L. from Danville on Mount Diablo Road, climbing out of the orchard lands of San Ramon Valley to the entrance of MOUNT DIABLO STATE PARK (automobile permit, 25¢; motorcycle permit, 15¢; overnight camping permit, 50¢), 25.5 m. The road climbs along a confused mass of DEVIL'S SLIDE (R), 28 m., up Madrone Canyon past the grotesque, animal-like rock formations of the GARDEN OF THE JUNGLE GODS (R), 28.6 m.

Well-defined trails lead northwest from PARK HEADQUARTERS (R), 29.1 m., to the sandstone formation of ELEPHANT ROCK, SENTINEL ROCK, DEVIL'S STAIRWAY, PIGEON ROCK, AND PENGUIN ROCK.

Rising majestically above broad plains, the conical summit of MOUNT DIABLO, 36.2 m. (3,849 alt.), often incorrectly said to be volcanic, is easily recognizable from great distances; it long has been a conspicuous landmark for both Indians and whites. To the east are the great San Joaquin and Sacramento Valleys and the long line of the Sierra from Mount Lassen to Mount Brewer; to the north, Mount St. Helena; to the west, Mount Tamalpais and the Pacific; to the south, Santa Clara Valley between parallel Coast ranges. Eighty thousand square miles of land and sea lie within the extreme limits of vision. All lands in California north of Kern and San Luis Obispo Counties, except the Humboldt region, are surveyed by reference to Mount Diablo (a meridian base).

Pedro Fages and his company in 1772 were the first white men to come near the mountain. Four years later Juan Bautista de Anza followed the trail blazed by Fages. General Mariano G. Vallejo reported that in 1806 a military expedition from San Francisco fought the Bolgone Indians, who were encamped on a foothill seven miles north of Kah Woo Koom (mighty mountain), as the Indians called Mount Diablo. During the battle “an unknown personage, decorated with the most extraordinary plumage and making divers movements, suddenly appeared. The Indians were victorious and the incognito, probably a medicine man impersonating the puy [evil spirit, or devil]…departed towards the mount. The defeated soldiers…named the mount ‘Diablo’…”

In 1841 the first emigrant train to enter California by way of the Sierra Nevada, the Bidwell-Bartleson party, used Mount Diablo as a guide. Colonel Leander Ransom established Diablo as a base point for Government surveys in California in 1851. In 1862 the Whitney survey expedition climbed and measured the mountain. Before the days of automobiles it required a full day to ascend the steep and dusty road to the summit. A hotel on the mountainside, which cared for overnight visitors, was burned by settlers who objected to trespassers.

Crowning the summit are the heavily buttressed walls of MOUNT DIABLO MUSEUM, built of native miocene sandstone. The structure (under construction 1940) has a three-story octagonal tower flanked by an L-shaped wing. The main entrance opens into the ground floor of the tower, built around the base meridian marker. Against the walls is a series of dioramas and pictures relating to establishment of the mountain as a base meridian point and a triangulation base for the United States Geodetic Survey. In the adjoining wing are the Hall of Science, containing botanical, zoological, paleontological, and geological exhibits, and murals illustrating prehistoric animal life; and the Hall of History, with a series of dioramas and murals depicting Indian life and religious concepts, Spanish exploration and settlement in the Diablo region, early American settlements, and local industries, particularly the Mount Diablo coal mines. The second floor of the tower is an observation room. Above the windows are large photomurals showing the greatest distances in each direction which can be seen with the naked eye. The upper story of the tower is surmounted by a powerful revolving electric beacon.

 

Across the Bay

 

Sculpture by Ralph Stackpole

PACIFICA. GODDESS OF TWO EXPOSITIONS

 

Clyde H. Sunderland Photo

CLIPPER IN FLIGHT OVER TREASURE ISLAND

 

FOUNTAIN OF WESTERN WATERS, GOLDEN GATE EXPOSITION

 

EVENING STAR. IN THE COURT OF THE MOON

 

OAKLAND BUSINESS DISTRICT FROM LAKE MERRITT

 

OAKLAND

 

IN THE SEVENTIES

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA

AIRVIEW

 

OAKLAND LONG WHARF, BUILT IN 1871

 

OAKLAND WHARF TERMINAL OF CENTRAL PACIFIC (1878)

 

BIG-WHEELED NEWARK (1877-1921)

 

HOME OF DERELICTS—SHIPS AND HUMAN BEINGS

Howard B. Hoffman Photo

 

MISSION SAN JOSE DE GUADALUPE

 

VINEYARD IN LIVERMORE VALLEY

 

In Alameda County's extreme northwest corner is ALBANY, 6.2 m. (sea level-300 alt., 11,420 pop.), with its many one-family homes of white stucco. The town site was part of the huge Rancho San Antonio granted to Luis Maria Peralta in 1820. The town was known as Ocean View until 1909, when the electorate renamed it in deference to Mayor Roberts, who came from Albany, New York.

The GOLDEN GATE TURF CLUB (under construction April, 1940), Fleming Point, will when completed share racing dates with Tanforan and Bay Meadows. Also under construction is the WESTERN REGIONAL RESEARCH LABORATORY, Buchanan and Fillmore Sts., a large U-shaped, three-story concrete building which will house a branch of the United States Bureau of Agricultural Chemistry and Engineering. It will be devoted to chemical, physical, and biological experiment in an effort to find new markets and uses for farm crops and commodities.

EL CERRITO, 6.9 m. (sea level-500 alt., 6,154 pop.), occupies the southern portion of the old Rancho San Pablo, granted in 1823 to Francisco Maria Castro. It dates from 1917, when the residents of 2,500 acres, some in Richmond and some in what was known merely as the “Cerrito District,” voted for incorporation.

The large white CASTRO ADOBE standing (R) a few yards off San Pablo Ave. on Cerrito Creek, was built in the 1840’s by Don Victor Castro, youngest son of the grantee of Rancho San Pablo. It has 34-inch outer walls and includes a private chapel. Bret Harte used the house as the locale of his play, The Two Men of Sandy Bar.

In the eastern residential district of RICHMOND, 9.2 m. (sea level-100 alt., 22,707 pop.), an arrow-shaped electric sign above the highway points (L) to the heart of the city. Though less than 40 years old, Richmond is Contra Costa County's largest city and the principal West Coast port for the transshipment of oil. It extends from the Contra Costa hills across three miles of low, level terrain to a steep headland from which two peninsulas—Point Richmond to the southeast and Point San Pablo to the northwest—jut into San Francisco Bay. Between Point San Pablo and San Pedro Point on the opposite Marin County shore is San Pablo Strait, joining San Francisco and San Pablo Bays. A six-mile water front fringed by an industrial belt and a series of modern home districts semicircling the business district comprise the 27 square miles of this scattered town. Although it has fine homes on the hillslopes east of San Pablo Avenue, many schools and other public buildings, parks and playgrounds, Richmond's many vacant blocks, fronted by sign boards and generally unrelieved by trees or shrubs, give the town an unfinished look characteristic of young communities.

Until 1900 this was farming and grazing land. In 1857 the first settler, John Nicholl, bought 200 acres of Rancho San Pablo. The hilly land from Point San Pablo to Point Richmond was early acquired by Jacob M. Tewksbury, surgeon and land-grabber. In 1870 the greater part of the present water front and industrial belt, known as the Potrero (pasture) District, was separated from the mainland by a slough. As an island it would have been declared closed Federal land (as were all the islands in San Francisco Bay by the Act of 1866), but by building a small dam across the southern end of the slough, Dr. Tewksbury caused shoaling and ultimately the closing of the waterway, until then deep enough to accommodate a small sloop. In 1872 the government declared the tract a peninsula, and, as such, a part of old Rancho San Pablo and the property of Tewksbury.

When the Central Pacific Railroad entered the district in 1877, it passed up Richmond's present site and built a station called Stege two miles southeast, but the Santa Fe in 1899 selected the site as its western terminus, thereby starting an industrial development. The Standard Oil Company built the first unit of its great refinery here in 1902. The dredging of the harbor began in 1912. Since 1926 the city has shared ownership and operation of its harbor with private interests.

The four terminals along the Richmond water front handle an annual cargo of more than 9,000,000 tons. Oil is by far the principal cargo, borne here by tankers from the Orient and pumped into the tanks that mushroom the hills. There are more than 60 industries, including fish-reduction plants, chemical works, an asphalt products plant, and tile, brick, enamel, and pottery works.

The STANDARD OIL REFINERY (adm. by pass), Standard Ave., occupies a tract of 1,800 acres. It has a daily capacity of 100,000 barrels of crude oil, employs between 2,000 and 3,000 workers, and manufactures more than 500 petroleum products.

The FORD MOTOR COMPANY ASSEMBLY PLANT (visitors 9-3 weekdays; guides), 1414 S. Tenth St., covering 58 acres, has about 1,000 employees.

A center for both yachting and motorboating is THE RICHMOND YACHT CLUB, Second St. and Inner Harbor Canal. Principal events are a championship regatta in June and a “beachcomber's ball” in September.

NICHOLL PARK (tennis, handball, baseball, bowling), Twenty-ninth St. and McDonald Ave., is Richmond's largest recreation center. The eight-room JOHN NICHOLL HOUSE, 2800 McDonald Ave., built in 1857 of redwood, is shaded by great eucalyptus trees more than 70 years old.

Left from McDonald Ave. in Richmond on Garrard Blvd. to a junction with Western Dr., 4.6 m. (Point Richmond); R. on Western Dr. to a junction with a paved road, 6.2 m.; L. here 0.5 m. to the Richmond-San Rafael Ferry (car and driver 70¢; with four passengers, 80¢), which crosses the northern end of San Francisco Bay to San Quentin Wharf.

Western Drive continues to WINEHAVEN, 8.7 m., sheltered by Molate Point (L), where formerly a large winery occupied the extensive buildings facing San Pablo Bay. It is now a ghost town, its plant and warehouses empty of machinery, its company-owned hotel and rows of cottages, which once housed 150 workers and their families, decaying in peaceful loneliness. So favorable for the aging and blending of wines were climatic conditions in this sheltered Bayside spot that $1,500,000 were invested in this property in 1906. The plant was abandoned in 1921 after a brief attempt at making grape juice for a dry Nation. But to it clings the memory of the fine California wines it processed—wines that competed for world favor with the best of other lands.

SAN PABLO, 11.4 m. (28 alt., 489 pop.), was named for Rancho San Pablo, a four-league tract which Francisco Maria Castro, Spanish artillery corporal, acquired in 1823. Castro died a few years later, leaving 12 children, one of whom, Martina, married Juan B. Alvarado, Mexican governor (1836-42) who later came into possession of the greater part of this rancho.

Its rear wall facing the highway, the ALVARADO ADOBE, US 40 and Church Lane, 90 feet long with broad porches and overhanging gables, has served as the storeroom of a grocery. It was built in 1838 by Antonio, eldest son of Francisco Castro. After American occupation of the State, Governor Alvarado made it his home until his death in 1882.

Left from San Pablo on a hard-surfaced road 1.2 m. to a junction with a driveway leading (R) to the GUTIERREZ ADOBE (private), visible from the road. Two frame wings have been added to the original 24- by 48-foot building whose thick walls, sheathed in wood and resting on a stone foundation, are well preserved. This adobe, built about 1845, was the home of Candido Gutierrez and his wife Jovita. Under one of the wings is the grave of Maria Emma Gutierrez, who died at the age of six. Her tombstone, inscribed with a Spanish verse, almost touches a floor beam.

At 12.4 m. on US 40 is a junction with a hard-surfaced road.

Left on this road, at the northern tip of Pinole Point, is the company town of GIANT, 2 m. (10 alt., 120 pop.), plant-site of the Atlas Powder Company. Although it has homes for about 30 families, a majority of the workmen live elsewhere. Formerly called Nitro, the place dates from 1867, when the Giant Powder Company, first company in California to manufacture dynamite, built a plant here.

US 40 veers northeast, still following the contour of the Bay. The Contra Costa hills decline into rolling ridges which flatten out as they approach the water. This region was known as the Sobrante district during late Mexican and early American days, the tract being sobrante (unclaimed or left-over portion) between Ranchos San Pablo and El Pinole. Sheep and cattle trails wind through occasional groves of eucalyptus and willow.

At the foot of hills commanding views of Bay and mountains, PINOLE, 16.4 m. (32 alt., 919 pop.), through which runs Pinole Creek, is chiefly a residential community for employees of plants along the Contra Costa shore. The town is named for Rancho El Pinole, claimed in 1823 by Lieutenant Ignacio Martinez, who named it in commemoration of the rescue of a party of Spanish soldiers, lost in this district, by a band of friendly Indians, who fed them a coarse gruel made from acorns, which they called pinole. The canyon, farther east, where they first lost their bearings, came to be known as the Canada del Hambre (valley of hunger) later corrupted to Alhambra.

In 1849 a young Englishman, Dr. Samuel J. Tennant, once physician to the King of the Sandwich Islands, stopped here on one of his trips to the gold regions, met Rafaela, daughter of Don Ignacio, and later married her. On that part of the rancho inherited by him and his wife, he founded the town of Pinole.

At 16.6 m. is a junction with a hard-surfaced road.

Left on this road is the company town of HERCULES, 0.7 m. (8 alt., 343 pop.), where the Hercules Powder Company established its plant in 1869 to provide powder for the mining industry. The residential district borders the road which winds along the tree-covered ridge fronting San Pablo Bay. As a measure of safety, powder and acid houses are built in separate pockets. Underground storage magazines are scattered throughout the flat lands to the east. The plant covers 2,800 acres and has a capacity of 250,000 pounds monthly.

At 17.4 m. is a junction with State 4.

Right on State 4 up Franklin Canyon, the fertile valley of Rodeo Creek, still partly covered with live oaks. The cleared land is planted to apricots, walnuts, and tomatoes.

At 9.2 m. is a junction with a paved road—the former State 4; L. here 0.1 m. to the RANCHO LAS JUNTAS ADOBE (private), a well-preserved white house built in the 1840’s, facing away from the road under old locust trees.

On former State 4 at 2 m. is Martinez.

On State 4 at 9.4 m. the large, old-fashioned, cupolaed JOHN STRENTZEL HOUSE (L) overlooks rolling orchard land. Here the great naturalist, John Muir (1838-1914), who originated the first plans for a system of National parks, spent the latter part of his life. The estate was originally part of Rancho Las Juntas.

At 9.7 m. is a junction with hard-surfaced Alhambra Road; R. here to the JOHN MUIR HOUSE (L), 1.1 m. (private), the original part of which was built in 1853 by Dr. John Strentzel, who gave it to his daughter and Muir after their marriage in 1880. The Muirs lived here for ten years (1880-90), moving to the Strentzel House shortly after Dr. Strentzel's death. Many of the books, pieces of furniture, and other possessions used by Muir are here. Near a large eucalyptus tree visible from the road Muir and his wife are buried. An annual pilgrimage to the graves is made on the Sunday nearest April 21, anniversary of his birthday.

Also on Alhambra Road is the JOHN SWETT HOUSE (private), 1.6 m., on the banks (R) of a tree-shaded stream on Hill Girt Ranch. John Swett (1830-1913), State Superintendent of Public Instruction from 1863 to 1867, co-founder of the first State normal college and intimate friend of John Muir, lived here. Nearby is a well-preserved adobe, built in the 1850’s, when this was part of Rancho Las Juntas.

From its junction with Alhambra Road, State 4 continues east to a junction with State 21, 12.7 m.

Right on State 21 to the LOUCKS HOUSE (private), 0.4 m., built by G. L. Walwrath in 1853 on a hill (L). The timbers, cut from Moraga redwoods, are covered with sheathing that was brought round Cape Horn. George P. Loucks bought the house in 1856.

PACHECO, 0.8 m. (21 alt., 200 pop.), a sleepy inland village, stands beside Walnut Creek, a stream that served as the boundary line for two ranchos—Las Juntas and Monte del Diablo. Grayson Creek, which also flows through Pacheco, joins Walnut Creek north of town to form Pacheco Creek. Within a few months after the town site was laid out in 1860, the village burned to the ground. A devastating flood in 1862, two more fires in 1867 and 1871, and an earthquake in 1868 were no boost to the town's growth.

Left from Pacheco 1.8 m. is CONCORD (65 alt., 1,369 pop.), a pleasant tree-shaded town, busy shipping point for the produce of Diablo Valley. The young village laid out in 1876 around the plaza was called Todos Santos (All Saints) by the Spanish and Drunken Indian by the Americans. Early hopes for the district were outlined in the Contra Costa Gazette of February 13, 1886: “Contra Costa County is destined to become a paradise of vineyards and orchards, of which Ygnacio and Diablo Valleys will be the central portion.” The prediction has in a measure been realized. Strawberries and vegetables are also grown in large quantities.

At Concord and Salvio Aves. stands the PACHECO HOUSE, a sturdy adobe with balconies and shuttered windows, set among pepper trees. Now encased in wood and well preserved, the century-old house was the home of Salvio Pacheco, grantee of Rancho Monte del Diablo, embracing 17,921 acres of the surrounding fertile valley.

State 21 continues south from Pacheco to a junction with State 24, 3.4 m.

The main side route follows State 4 from its junction with State 21 to a junction with State 24, 16 m., with which it unites as State 4-24, and continues L. to a junction with former State 4, 19.7 m. (see below).

US 40 crosses a low range of hills into the valley of Rodeo Creek.

At the mouth of the creek on San Pablo Bay is RODEO, 19.3 m. (12 alt., 1,288 pop.). During Spanish and early American days great rodeos were held yearly up the canyon. There is still some cattle-raising in the back country. The Bay is in view as US 40 continues across the rolling terrain, with great oil tanks on the hillsides—a portion of the 900 in this district.

The smell of petroleum near OLEUM, 20.2 m. (76 alt., 217 pop.), comes from the Union Oil Company Refinery. The plant refines 35,000 barrels of petroleum daily. The “cracking” towers which tower above the highway are gigantic stills in which crude oil is heated to 700° Fahrenheit. The volatility of the component parts of the oil determines at which level of the tower they will be sucked out by the condensers and deposited in other tanks. The high octane aviation gasoline is drawn off at the top of the tower, ordinary gasoline and kerosene at a lower level and the heavier motor and fuel oils near the bottom.

TORMEY, 20.8 m., a station (L) on the Southern Pacific line, was named for John and Patrick Tormey, whose 7,000-acre cattle ranch with a three-mile frontage on San Pablo Bay was before 1861 a part of Rancho El Pinole.

At 21 m. is a junction with a paved road.

Left on this road is the company town of SELBY, 0.2 m. (0-100 alt., 141 pop.), named for Prentiss Selby, who established the plant in 1884. A recently erected 605-foot-high smokestack, second in size only to one in Japan, marks the location of the American Smelting and Refining Company plant. Ore vessels unload at company docks; chief products are gold, silver, lead, and antimony.

Ascending a hill, US 40 climbs to a wide parking space, 21.5 m., cut in the hillside directly above San Pablo Bay, which affords a view of Carquinez Strait, Carquinez Bridge, and the north Bay hills and valleys. The broad expanse of San Pablo Bay narrows into six-mile-long and one-mile-wide CARQUINEZ STRAIT. The town of Vallejo and the Mare Island Navy Yard lie opposite. A long breakwater protects the deep channel to the Navy Yard; towering steel masts mark a powerful Naval radio station.

John Sutter, in command of three small vessels, looked out upon these shores en route to empire and riches in 1839; and this was the water route for men and supplies during the Gold Rush. Today oceangoing vessels buck the swift currents on their way to the deep-water port of Stockton, while flat-bottomed river boats push to and from the great central valleys. In season hundreds of tiny craft bob on the swells, as fishermen pit their skill and patience against the wariness of the gamey striped bass.

At 22.3 m. is a junction with a paved road, on which the route branches R. from US 40.

Left here on US 40, across CARQUINEZ BRIDGE (45¢ per car, 5¢ per passenger), is VALLEJO, 3.5 m. (see North Bay Tour).

The route continues R. on the paved road to CROCKETT, 22.7 m. (25 alt., 3,885 pop.), which rises from the narrow strip of land fronting Carquinez Strait up the steep adjoining hills. The original owner of the town site, Thomas Edwards, Welsh by birth and a former mate on Mississippi River steamboats, drove his own covered wagon to California in 1849-50. Securing 1,800 acres along the Strait, he went into the cattle business. With the coming of the Central Pacific in 1877, the Edwards ranch became the site of Valona Station. In 1881, when a foundry selected the site as a new home, Edwards laid out the present town. He named it for J. B. Crockett, a former member of the California Supreme Court, whom he had known in St. Louis as a young lawyer.

In 1897 California Beet Sugar Refining Company erected a small refinery on the shore, the nucleus of the present CALIFORNIA HAWAIIAN SUGAR REFINING CORPORATION PLANT (visiting hours 10-1). The corporation has its own ships which bring some half million tons of raw sugar from the Hawaiian Islands to its docks annually. The plant refines 2,600 tons daily, employing 2,000 men at peak, and disbursing up to $2,500,000 in pay rolls each year.

East of Crockett the route parallels Carquinez Strait. Now at sea level, now on the hillsides, the road winds around points and dives into canyons.

In PORT COSTA, 25.2 m. (11 alt., 593 pop.), an elm-shaded lane (L) leads down to a cove which was formerly an important harbor. When grain was California's principal crop, sailing vessels of many nations loaded wheat at this port. Until 1930, when the Southern Pacific built a bridge across the strait (see below), the main line trains were ferried from here to Benicia. One of the boats, the Contra Costa, with a capacity of 36 freight cars and two locomotives, was the largest railroad ferry in the world.

MARTINEZ, 31 m. (12 alt., 7,341 pop.), sits snugly on a crescent-shaped cove on Carquinez Strait, where the hills turn south to form the narrow Alhambra Valley into which the town is growing. Martinez was laid out in 1849 by Colonel William M. Smith on lands of Rancho El Pinole (see above), to which in 1850 was added, east of Del Hambre Creek, a part of Rancho Las Juntas (the junction points), granted in 1852 to William Welch, a Scot. When Contra Costa County was organized in 1850, Martinez became the county seat. River boats docked here, and a ferry crossed to Benicia. In 1878 the Central Pacific built a branch line from Port Costa to Martinez and later another line south into the San Ramon Valley. Since 1905 the Mountain Copper Company has manufactured fertilizers and various copper derivatives. The town, however, grew slowly until 1914, when the Shell Oil Company with its refinery became the chief industry (now employing more than one thousand). The population has tripled since 1910. Martinez also ships wine, acids, alcohol, furniture, fishoil and meal, spring water, redwood panels, and electric fixtures.

1. Right from Martinez on State 21 to a junction with State 4, 4.3 m. (see above).

2. Left from Martinez on Ferry St. to the Martinez-Benicia Auto Ferry (car and driver 55¢, each additional passenger 10¢), which crosses Suisun Bay to BENICIA, 2 m.; this water link is a continuation of State 21.

The main route goes east on Escobar Street (old State 4) through the Shell Oil Refinery property and past the SOUTHERN PACIFIC RAILROAD BRIDGE, which spans the eastern end of Carquinez Strait between Suisun Point and Army Point. The bridge was completed in 1930 at a cost of $12,000,000.

The refinery site of the Associated Oil Company is at ASSOCIATED, 34.5 m. (12 alt., 250 pop.), a company town which until recently was called Avon. The refinery has a capacity of 48,000 barrels daily; it maintains great loading docks and pipe lines.

PORT CHICAGO, 37.8 m. (18 alt., 1,032 pop.), formerly called Bay Point, looks out toward the low-lying islands of Suisun Bay. It grew up with the C. A. Smith Lumber Company which came here in 1907 and flourished during the World War when the Pacific Coast Shipbuilding Company maintained yards here, but later declined in population when these companies moved away. Most of the residents, many of them Scandinavians by birth or parentage, are employed in nearby industrial towns. The harbor is much visited by yachtsmen and fishermen.

Another company town is NICHOLS, 39.7 m. (20 alt., 300 pop.), home of the General Chemical Company, where up to 200 are employed at peak.

East of Nichols, Suisun Bay narrows to a deep channel into which pour the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers after draining the great central valleys.

At SHELL POINT (L), 42.9 m., are a chemical plant and experimental laboratories of the Shell Oil Company, with about 300 employees.

PITTSBURG, 46.2 m. (21 alt., 9,610 pop.), faces the deep waters of New York Slough, near the confluence of the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers. Although it is a highly industrialized town, it has clean, well-paved streets, and many of its residents own their own homes.

The founder of the first settlement here was Jonathan B. Stevenson, ex-colonel of New York Militia, who led a regiment of New York Volunteers to California to help restore order in 1847. Stevenson turned to real estate with the idea of founding a “New York of the Pacific.” In 1849 he purchased a part of Rancho Los Meganos (sand dunes), including the site of Pittsburg, engaged an obscure young engineer, one William Tecumseh Sherman—destined to become well-known in the State of Georgia—to lay out this Pacific Coast Manhattan, and tried to infuse Californians with his own “big-town” enthusiasm. Those who thought the city would become a “second New York” were doomed to disappointment, for the citizens sat up nights waiting for the boom and fighting off the hordes of mosquitoes infesting adjacent swamps. By 1865 they had become resigned to the waiting and the mosquitoes—and to the town's name of “New York Landing,” which had been substituted for the colonel's grandiloquent “New York of the Pacific.” When in the 1880’s coal was discovered on the slope of Mount Diablo, the town was renamed Black Diamond. In 1910, after the Columbia Steel Company had built a modern mill, it received its present name.

The mills, foundries, and shops of the COLUMBIA STEEL CORPORATION PLANT (visitors admitted by special permission), where rolled steel products are manufactured, cover 387 acres. This plant is the principal subsidiary on the Pacific Coast of the United States Steel Corporation.

ANTIOCH, 50.5 m. (42 alt., 3,563 pop.), lies on the south bank of the San Joaquin River. The town is the gateway to the rich San Joaquin delta, which produces the bulk of the Nation's asparagus. Along its water front pass ships and barges to Stockton, one of the country's leading inland ports. The founders of Antioch, J. H. and W. W. Smith, ministers by profession and carpenters by trade, arrived in San Francisco from Boston on July 6, 1849. The brothers took up jointly two quarter-sections of land where Antioch now stands. On December 24, 1849, they set up tents and broke ground, working the land just enough to hold it, while carrying on their carpenter work. On February 5, 1850 the Reverend W. W. Smith died, but his brother remained at “Smith's Landing.” Learning that a shipload of settlers from Maine had arrived in San Francisco planning to found a colony in California, he hurried to the city and offered each a lot for a home. They brought with them the traditions of a sturdy, God-fearing race and selected the Biblical name of Antioch for their new home. Antioch prospered during the Gold Rush, when ships with men and supplies made it a port of call and farmers began to cultivate the surrounding rich agricultural lands.

Today Antioch's largest industry is the Fibreboard Products Company, occupying a 30-acre tract and employing 400 people, which produces boxboard, paper boxes, packing cases, and wallboard. Other industries include a shipbuilding plant and several fruit and vegetable canneries.

The substantial GEORGE W. KIMBALL HOUSE, Third St., erected in 1851, was one of the first structures in the State to be built of Douglas fir—the “Oregon pine” of lumbermen.

 

East Bay Tour 2

Oakland—San Leandro—Alvarado—Centerville—Irvington—Warm Springs—Milpitas—San Jose; 41.7 m. State 17.

Paved roadbeds throughout.

Southern Pacific R. R. parallels the route; Peerless Stages between Oakland and San Jose; East Bay Transit Motor Coaches between Oakland and San Lorenzo.

This route follows the rich agricultural lands on the east side of San Francisco Bay, country occupied by Franciscan missionaries and Spanish rancheros long before the coming of Americans.

South from Fourteenth St. and Broadway in OAKLAND, 0 m., on Broadway; L. on Eighth St. (State 17), which curves into E. Twelfth St.

SAN LEANDRO, 8.7 m. (50 alt., 13,656 pop.), is a commercial and residential center on a narrow strip of exceptionally fertile land between San Francisco Bay (R) and low foothills (L). A green wedgelike plaza and old-fashioned frame buildings soften the business district's otherwise typical Main-Street atmosphere. Both the old frame houses and the new stucco-finished bungalows are fronted by well-kept gardens. The more pretentious old wooden homes have an air of faded grandeur. West of East Fourteenth Street (San Leandro's main business artery) are factories, packing sheds and canneries. When the canning season is at its peak, trucks loaded with fruit and vegetables lumber through the streets, and overalled men and women thread their way past great stacks of lug boxes lining the sidewalks.

The city's site was formerly part of Rancho San Leandro, granted Don Jose Joaquin Estudillo in 1842. Before the United States Government could confirm the title, however, many settlers had staked out claims. In early days San Leandro was an important stagecoach stop between Oakland and San Jose. Of all the stage drivers who made the run, the most hell-roaring was Charley Parkhurst, a swaggering bully with one eye covered by a black patch, lips and chin habitually stained by tobacco juice, who wore a buffalo-skin cap and turned up the cuffs of his blue jeans to show off elegant boots. Not until “his” death was Charley discovered to be a woman, Charlotte Parkhurst, who had come to California at the age of twenty in 1848. Unsuspected, she registered as a voter 50 years before woman's suffrage, her name (in its masculine form) appearing on the Santa Cruz register for 1866.

The State's largest Portuguese settlement, comprising more than 25,000 in Alameda County, centers in San Leandro. Founders of the colony (originally from the Azores and Madeira) came here from Sandwich Island sugar plantations where, because of a labor shortage, they had been held in virtual peonage. In the 1870’s many Portuguese sailors, picked up at the Azores by New Bedford whaling vessels, rounded Cape Horn, jumped ship in San Francisco, and came here with little more than the small gold earrings which the majority of them wore. By their industry and thrift these patient, liberty-loving people were able to send passage money to other Azorean countrymen eager to take up life in the New World. The Portuguese, among the first farmers of Alameda County, have remained close to the soil. The dense Portuguese population here celebrates with church services, banners, street parades, and fireworks the Feast of the Holy Ghost.

Lying in a famed garden belt, San Leandro is a great center of floriculture. More than 3,800 workers are employed in the hothouses of this area. The flowers grown, chiefly sweet peas, camellias, gardenias, and orchids have an annual retail value of more than $10,000,-000. The nurseries supply flowers for the Pasadena Tournament of Roses, the Portland Rose Festival, and the New Orleans Mardi Gras. Thousands of acres in this area are devoted to dairying, truck farming, and fruit raising. San Leandro has a large fruit and vegetable cannery; its factories make or assemble calculating machines, automobiles, trucks, tractors, pencil slates, and pencils.

In ROOT PARK, E. Fourteenth St. and San Leandro Creek, a historical marker indicates the boundary between Rancho San Antonio and Rancho San Leandro.

The ESTUDILLO HOUSE (private), 1291 Carpentier St., erected 1850 or 1851, is the city's oldest residence. It was badly damaged in the 1868 earthquake. The balcony extending along two sides of the 14-room house, which still has its original clapboard sheathing and window sashes, is supported by wooden-covered brick pillars. On the lower floor were originally the kitchen, dining room, wine cellar, and quarters for Indian servants; on the upper floor were living quarters for the family. Behind the mansion is a fig tree over 90 years old, while nearby stands an almost equally venerable pear tree. Two large gnarled stumps in the front yard are remains of Alameda County's first pepper trees.

A women's social club is housed in the old IGNACIO PERALTA HOME, 563 E. Thirteenth St. Sergeant Luis Maria Peralta, grantee of Rancho San Antonio, divided his holdings among his four sons in 1842, and Ignacio, coming into the southern portion, built this home in 1860. The house, a one-story, rectangular structure, is of brick, the first in the county built of that material. Extensively repaired and remodeled, it is painted a light tan. The front porch, extending the width of the house, is shaded by two large magnolias.

Left from San Leandro on East Fourteenth Street 2 m. to the OAKLAND SPEEDWAY, a privately owned one-mile banked dirt track, claimed to be the fastest of its kind in the United States. A 500-mile event is held here each Labor Day, besides auto, midget car, and motorcycle races during the year. The grandstand seats approximately 11,000.

South of San Leandro, where blue mountains appear across the Bay, orchards, hayfields, and truck gardens checkerboard the flat land. Diminutive Japanese women wearing large sunbonnets and legginged overalls work in berry fields and truck gardens. Tilled field on hillsides (L) create a patchwork quilt.

SAN LORENZO, 12 m. (31 alt., 500 pop.), commercial center for surrounding farms and orchards, was once known as Squatterville. Here on the banks of San Lorenzo Creek Americans began in 1851 to overrun Don Jose Joaquin Estudillo's Rancho San Leandro. Some of the squatters expressed their pioneer disrespect for property rights by shooting Estudillo's horses and cattle and fencing watering places away from his stock. Following a court decision favorable to Estudillo in 1854, they began to take leases and eventually bought the land.

The former SAN LORENZO HOTEL, now a tavern and private dwelling, is a two-story building beneath whose casing of brown shingles is the original siding. Built in 1854 by Charles Crane, it was a stage station on the Mission Road between San Jose and Oakland.

In a fertile agricultural area is MOUNT EDEN, 15.8 m. (25 alt., 500 pop.), consisting of little more than a church, a country store, and the inevitable gas stations. The name is misleading, for the town site is flat. Established in 1850, it was known in the early days both as Eden's Landing and Johnson's Landing. John Johnson, first American to extract salt commercially along San Francisco Bay, shipped his product to pioneer settlements of California from a crude landing near here.

1. Right from Mount Eden on a paved road 1.8 m. to the LESLIE SALT WORKS, extending over flat land, where water from the Bay, confined in square shallow areas enclosed by banked-up earth, is reduced to crude salt by evaporation. Windmills, squat copies of the Dutch type, pump water from one area to another. Huge piles of white salt stand like cones of snow. Long before the white man came Indians gathered crude salt from natural basins along the nearby shore line.

At 3 m. is the east approach to the seven-mile-long SAN MATEO TOLL BRIDGE (toll, 65¢ for car, driver, and four passengers), constructed of cement made from oyster shells dredged in the Bay.

In San Mateo, 13.1 m. (see Peninsula Tour), is the junction with US 101 Bypass (see Peninsula Tour).

2. Left from Mount Eden on a paved road is HAYWARD, 2 m. (115 alt., 6,547 pop.), at the base of low rolling foothills, surrounded by fertile orchard land and poultry farms. On the west side of the town are packing sheds, canneries, and cannery workers’ homes. To the east the streets slope up to a more pretentious residential district with many fine gardens.

The town, which occupies a portion of the Rancho San Lorenzo, granted to Guillermo Castro in 1841, derived its name from William Hayward, who in 1851 mistakenly pitched his tent in Palomares Canyon on Castro's land with the intention of homesteading. Later Hayward purchased a plot on the rancho from Castro. Since roads leading to the gold fields passed through Hayward's property, his rude habitation soon became a trading place for miners. The shrewd Yankee established a combined stagecoach inn and general store. Soon the fame of “Haywards” was such that San Francisco people made the trip by boat and stagecoach to spend vacations there.

The shipping and canning of apricots, peaches, cherries, peas, spinach, and tomatoes is the town's chief industry, occupying 2,500 persons at the height of the season. There are also hatcheries that yearly ship some quarter-million baby chicks. In and around the town are many nurseries, conservatories, and lath houses growing plants and flowers.

The HAYWARD HOTEL ANNEX, 953 A St., a part of William Hayward's inn (see above), built in 1853, has some of the original hand-made doors and window sashes.

The MARKHAM SCHOOL, named in honor of Edwin Markham, author of the world-famous “The Man with the Hoe,” occupies ground on which stood the old Laurel School where Markham, while a struggling young poet, once taught.

Proprietor in the 1870’s of the VILLA HOTEL, on Castro St., was Tony Oakes, ballad singer, who published Tony Oakes’ Songster in 1878. The hotel, built prior to 1860, was known as the American Exchange and as Oakes’ Hotel.

DUBLIN, 11.1 m. (367 alt., 200 pop.), a small crossroads town at the junction with State 21, once called Amador, was a portion of Rancho San Ramon, granted in 1833 to Jose Maria Amador, a hard-boiled soldier, onetime major-domo of Mission San Jose. Centered here was his 16,517-acre rancho, stocked with great herds of cattle, sheep, and horses. In 1846, when Captain John Charles Frémont, ostensibly making “surveys,” rode through the property and confiscated 57 of Amador's horses, a quarrel arose; but Frémont, at the head of his column of campaign-toughened fighters, presented a formidable argument to which Amador was forced to yield. The enterprising Amador was perhaps the first industrialist in the region now comprising Alameda County. Using Indian and Mexican labor, he early manufactured soap, leather goods, blankets, wagons, and other commodities. After 1852, when James Witt Dougherty purchased most of the Amador grant, the settlement was known as “Dougherty's Station.” Because the area became settled largely by the Irish, the little town ultimately became known as Dublin. Surrounded by very fertile land, it is noted for fine Hereford stock, and dairy and farm products.

Little white frame ST. RAYMOND'S CHURCH, built in 1859 by Tom Donlan, was the first place of worship in the valley. A hawthorne-lined driveway leads behind the church to the cemetery in which have been interred the pioneers of the region. Jig-saw scrolls ornament the overhanging eaves of the two-story AMADOR HOTEL, on the west side of US 50, built in 1860 by James W. Dougherty with redwood lumber brought from Redwood City. In 1870, John Scarlett, a local bartender, purchased the hotel. A modern front has been added to the first story.

Straight ahead (south) on State 21 from Dublin, along the western edge of Amador Valley and the eastern base of Pleasanton Ridge, 1 m. to the remodeled JEREMIAH FALLON HOUSE (L), built in 1850 of redwood timbers hewn from the San Antonio forest east of Oakland. The house was moved here from a previous location when the highway was rerouted.

A giant oak shades the ALVISO ADOBE (L), 3.4m., built in 1846. The one-story house, with a storehouse in an abutting wing, overlooks vast green alfalfa fields extending to Pleasanton (see below). The adobe is used as a dining room, kitchen, and club room for men employed on the large dairy ranch that operates the property.

The white-plastered AUGUSTIN BERNAL ADOBE (R), 5.8 m. (private), dates from 1850. The roof extending over the long front porch is supported by heavy square posts. The gable windows are later additions. The present ranch is a small part of the vast 48,000-acre Rancho El Valle de San Jose, which included a large part of the Livermore and Sunol Valleys. It was granted in 1839 jointly to Augustin Bernal, his brother Juan Pablo, Antonio Maria Pico, and Antonio Maria Sunol (see below).

At 6.2 m. on State 21 is the junction with an improved road; R. here 0.3 m. to the former PHOEBE APPERSON HEARST RESIDENCE, a white, Spanishstyled, two-story building topped by two towers and roofed with red tile. Here the wife of Senator George Hearst frequently—and lavishly—entertained students from the University of California. Centered in the patio is a marble well-head of Veronese sculpture from which the estate took its name, Hacienda del Pozo de Verona (estate of the Veronese well). Inside the mansion are 40 rooms. The surrounding 500 acres, lying on the low foothills of Pleasanton Ridge and wooded with many fine varieties of conifers, white oaks, and cork elms, were bought by Senator Hearst in 1890 and converted into a blooded horse-breeding farm. For several years after Mrs. Hearst's death a golf course and country club occupied the estate. In 1940 it was converted once more to a stock-breeding farm.

At 6.3 m. on State 21 is the junction with the Pleasanton-Sunol road (see below).

West from Dublin the main side route follows US 50 across the level stretches of the fertile Livermore Valley to SANTA RITA, 14.8 m. (346 alt., 40 pop.), originally part of Rancho Santa Rita issued in 1839 to Jose Dolores Pacheco.

Right from Santa Rita on a paved road is Pleasanton, 2.8 m. (see below).

The ROBERT LIVERMORE MONUMENT (L), 20.2 m., built of native rock in 1935, commemorates the first c. Livermore, who had served in the British navy, entered the merchant marine service only to jump his ship, the Colonel Young, at Monterey Bay in 1822. Quickly learning Spanish, he became a favorite among the Mexicans. After marrying Seforita Josefa Higuera, whose father owned the Rancho Agua Caliente, encompassing the present site of Warm Springs (see below), Livermore came with his wife and José Noriega into this valley in 1835, settled on the 8,800-acre Rancho Las Positas (the little water holes), and planted the first orchard and vineyard in the valley. Livermore died in 1858 and was buried at Mission San Jose de Guadalupe (see below).

At 20.6 m. is the junction with a paved road, on which the route goes R.

LIVERMORE, 21.3 m. (487 alt., 2,744 pop.), located partly on what was once Robert Livermore's Rancho Las Positas, is a cattle and agricultural community where “ten-gallon” hats and jingling spurs mingle with more conservative attire. Near Livermore is a “cow country” little changed since frontier days. During the annual Livermore Rodeo in June, residents don “Western” hats, high-heeled boots and chaps, and proceed to take the town apart.

Alfonso Ladd named the town site Laddsville as early as 1850. In following years many settlers drifted into Livermore Valley where they harvested bumper crops of wheat, barley, and oats. But not until the advent of the Central Pacific Railroad in 1869 did the town burgeon into importance. The introduction of the wine industry assured it of a prosperous development.

Livermore Valley has been called the Sauterne capital of America. James Concannon, the Wente Brothers, and others, discovering here chalky soils similar to those of the Sauterne areas in southwestern France, sent to France for cuttings in the early 1880’s. The yield of grapes, one and one-quarter tons per acre, is small, but the varieties are of the highest quality. Vintages from the imported cuttings have won gold medals in competition with wines from grapes of the parent stock.

Right (south) from Livermore on L Street, which crosses the Arroyo Mocho and becomes a paved county road, 4.2 m. to the UNITED STATES VETERANS’ HOSPITAL (visiting hours: weekdays 11-1, 3-5, 7-8; Sun. and holidays 10:30-1, 3-6). In the white stucco buildings with red tile roofs, about 300 tubercular veterans are treated.

The main side route continues from Livermore on West First Street to the junction with a paved road, 27.1 m., and L. here across the Arroyo del Valle.

PLEASANTON, 27.3 m. (361 alt., 1,272 pop.), is the center of an area devoted to agriculture, dairying, grape culture and wine-making. The local wineries sponsor an annual festival called “La Fiesta del Vino.” The town's name honors General Pleasanton, a cavalry officer who served under John Charles Frémont in the Missouri campaign of the Civil War. Though sedate and quiet today, Pleasanton was once melodramatically “Western,” with fire-spitting guns, swinging saloon doors, and spangled dancehall girls. Pleas-anton's old-fashioned houses and white wooden church appeared in the motion picture Rebecca of Sunnybrook Farm, which, with Mary Pickford in the title role, was filmed here in 1917-18.

Laid out in the early seventies, the PLEASANTON RACETRACK became famous throughout the country for its harness races and trotting exhibitions. The track west of town is still in use as a trial ground for promising horses; the stables and adjacent grounds are also used as a resting place for racing stock from Tanforan, Santa Anita, and other tracks.

The ROSE HOTEL, 540 Main St., a shabby three-story building built in 1874, formerly was much patronized by owners of thoroughbreds and racetrack followers.

Founded in 1902, the GARRATTI WINERY (open to visitors), 124 St. John St., makes both dry and sweet wines and brandy. It has two oaken casks whose heads are examples of fine wood carving.

The JUAN P. BERNAL ADOBE, on the north bank of Arroyo del Valle, was built in 1852. A soldier of the San Francisco and San Jose presidios, Bernal here became a large landowner. His daughter married an Austrian, John W. Kottinger, first storekeeper in Pleasanton, who erected an adobe on the opposite bank of the arroyo.

South of Pleasanton, the valley narrows into the Arroyo de la Laguna. At 29.2 m. is the junction with State 21 (see above), on which the route continues through the arroyo to the junction with Niles Canyon Road, 31.5 m.

Straight ahead through a grilled iron gate 0.5 m. to the SUNOL WATER TEMPLE and a shaded picnic ground (open 7-7). The Water Temple (Willis Polk, architect), inspired by the ancient Temple of Vesta at Tivoli, consists of a circular arcade of ten Corinthian columns supporting a dome. Immediately below the dome is a deep circular enclosure through which flows a torrent of water from the Sierra Nevada, which having been filtered here, flows on to San Francisco via Crystal Springs Lake (see PENINSULA TOUR).

The main side route goes R. on Niles Canyon Road across the Arroyo de la Laguna to SUNOL, 331 m. (250 alt., 600 pop.), an agricultural center at the northern end of Sunol Valley, which is drained by Alameda Creek. The town was named after Antonio Sunol, who prior to settling here served in the French navy. Sunol and others were granted the Rancho El Valle de San Jose in 1839. The region's chief products are apricots, tomatoes, walnuts, grapes, grain, and hay.

West of Sunol, Alameda Creek winds through steep, narrow Niles Canyon. The creek is crossed and recrossed as the road winds and twists into the canyon, with it buckeyes and wide-spreading sycamores. In the shade are many spots for picnicking, camping, and swimming.

A stone aqueduct, paralleling the road south from 38 m., once carried water to Vallejo's Mill, whose ruins still stand in Niles (see below).

NILES, 39.4 m. (77 alt., 1,517 pop.), is the center of an intensive flower-fruit- and vegetable-growing area. The town stands on part of what was Rancho Arroyo de la Alameda, 17,705 acres granted in 1842 to Jose de Jesus Vallejo, an older brother of General Mariano Vallejo. Its name honors Judge Addison C. Niles, who in 1871 was elected to the California Supreme Court. In the “nickelodeon” era, when movies were in their silent but lusty infancy, the now defunct Essanay Studios, in which Charles Chaplin, Ben Turpin, and Wallace Beery began their movie careers, were located here.

The side route goes L. from Niles on a four-lane highway (formerly US 101 E) to the junction with a paved road, 39.7 m., where it turns R.

At 42 m. is the junction with State 17 in Centerville (see below).

Named to honor Juan B. Alvarado, Mexican governor (1836-42), ALVARADO, 18.8 m. (11 alt., 1,800 pop.), is a partly industrialized town with a large Portuguese population. It stands on part of former Rancho Potrero de los Cerritos (pasture of the little hills), granted to Agustin Alviso and Tomas Pacheco in 1844. At the height of the Gold Rush the ranch was purchased by two Americans who planted it to potatoes and received $100,000 for their second crop. So great was a minor “gold” rush to the potential potato diggin's of Alvarado that the next year's crop glutted the market and no one realized a profit.

In the early 1850’s three rival towns were laid out here: Union City, New Haven, and finally Alvarado. On March 15, 1853, Henry C. Smith, founder of New Haven, introduced into the State legislature a bill to create Alameda County, “designating New Haven as the county seat and Alvarado as seat of justice.” The new county officials met in the upper story of Smith's store in New Haven, but their first minutes are dated “Alvarado, April 11, 1853,” indicating that the name Alvarado had been accepted for the entire community as well as the county seat.

Center of a large acreage devoted to sugar beets, the HOLLY SUGAR COMPANY (open to visitors during operation, approximately Aug. 15 to Christmas) is a modern, many-windowed factory with a tall white stack.

At 22 m. is the junction with a hard-surfaced road.

Right on this road to the DUMBARTON TOLL BRIDGE, 6.9 m. (toll, 40¢ per car, 5¢ each person). At 10.7 m. is the junction with US 101 Bypass (see Peninsula Tour).

Commercial center for farmers and orchardists, CENTERVILLE, 23.6 m. (50 alt., 1,700 pop.), stretches along the highway, its two rows of glaring modern store fronts broken occasionally by an old-fashioned frame structure. Originally known as Hardscrabble, the town in the early 1850’s consisted of a small store on the old Mission Road to San Jose. One of the first schools in the State was organized here in 1852. Centerville grew slowly and uneventfully until the earthquake of 1906 started a fire which all but destroyed the village. Today the town subsists on surrounding farms, a metal-products company, and a cannery.

Right from Centerville on a paved road is NEWARK, 3 m. (21 alt., 1,535 pop.), another small industrial town. First known as Mayhew's Landing, it was founded about 1875 by James G. Fair, one of the Nevada silver millionaires, and A. E. Davis, who later renamed it for his birthplace in New Jersey.

A stove-manufacturing company, established in 1882 and now employing 500 men, is Newark's outstanding industry. In the vicinity are two Nationally known salt companies which extract salt from Bay water (see above) by solar evaporation. A mile west of the business district is a chemical plant producing ethylene dibromide and other compounds. Shooting preserves located along the Bay shore accommodate duck hunters.

The NEWARK SUB-STATION OF THE PACIFIC GAS AND ELECTRIC COMPANY is the “largest pool of power in the world.” More than a half-million horsepower of electrical energy flows into it from various power plants throughout the State, to be stepped down for distribution.

At 7 m. is the Dumbarton Bridge (see above).

In the midst of open fields and orchards is tree-shaded little IRV-INGTON, 26.8 m. (72 alt., 1,000 pop.). Wooden “arcades,” extending from square fronts of old frontier-type general stores, shade the sidewalk. First known as Washington Corners, this was an important pioneer trading post. It took the name of Irvington in 1884.

Left from Irvington on a paved road 1.2 m. to a cement-walled INDIAN CEMETERY, where a plain granite monument explains that “here sleep 4,000 of the Olhone Tribe, who helped the padres build this Mission San Jose de Guadalupe” (see below). MISSION PEAK (2,508 alt.), a landmark in the mission days, rises directly ahead.

The RIEHR WINERY (R), 1.4 m., occupies the site of the former summer home and experimental grounds of Professor E. W. Hilgard (see BERKELEY : UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA). One of the presses in use dates from 1868. Wines produced here were shipped around Cape Horn in sailing vessels. The rocking motion of ships was said to enhance their quality.

Oldest settlement in Alameda County, MISSION SAN JOSE, 2.1 m. (300 alt., 531 pop.), formerly known as Mission Town, was once the scene of numerous fiestas. When Mexican rancheros assembled here with hundreds of their retainers for sports and amusements, the town's single thoroughfare was temporarily enclosed and sufficient seats for the population of the entire countryside were erected. The festivities included feats of horsemanship, bull and bear fights, barbecues, and gay dances.

Languishing after the decline of the mission era, the village again awoke after discovery of gold. Miners on their way to the gold fields, fur traders, trappers and desperadoes stopped here. The dining room of the Red Hotel served as a dance hall. The wife of the hotel manager asserted her individuality by adorning herself with five-dollar gold pieces in place of buttons. As late as 1859 the last bull fight was staged.

Fourteenth of the 21 California missions, MISSION SAN JOSE DE GUADALUPE (adm. 25¢), founded by Padre Fermin Francisco Lasuen on Trinity Sunday, 1797, originally was known as La Mision del Gloriosisimo Patriarca Seor San Jose (The Mission of the Most Glorious Patriarch, St. Joseph). According to legend, disagreement about the selection of a site among the members of an exploration party was settled by prayer and the law of gravitation. A huge stone, after being blessed, was rolled down a steep hillside. Where it came to rest the mission was built.

The mission founders knew privation, struggle, and opposition. To Christianize the Indians, who sometimes fought against preemption of their land, it was sometimes necessary to use the sword and the whip. The natives often rebelled against the hard, monotonous work forced upon them. During church services guards equipped with long goads moved among the congregation, prodding natives who assumed other than a kneeling position. For outstanding work, however, the Indians were rewarded with beads and gaudy trinkets. It is recorded that friction developed even between the padres and the military when soldiers refused to serve as vaqueros or to do other non-military work.

Despite all these obstacles the mission grew to become one of the most prosperous of the mission establishment, being fourth in wealth and second in the number of converts.

Under the guidance of capable padres many converts were taught trades and crafts. Indeed, Padre Duran, beloved mission prefect, developed a stringed orchestra of more than 20 musicians who were in constant demand at social functions. Padre Duran also made good wines and better brandies. The old leather bound “guest book” of the mission, now among the chief treasures of St. Mary's of San Francisco, contains the signatures of men of science, travelers from many countries, as well as trappers, woodsmen, and outlaws who were early mission visitors.

After secularization, Mission San Jose fell into such a state of deterioration that in 1846 it was sold for only a fraction of its former value. After California entered the Union the Land Commission restored the property to the Church. It is now under the custody of the Sisters of St. Dominic. The first mission building, constructed of heavy timber and covered with a grass roof, later was replaced by a more elaborate structure of adobe which was destroyed by earthquake in 1868. All that remains of the original cluster of buildings is a large common room, whose thick walls are weatherworn and cracked. The dark interior is festooned with cobwebs. The present place of worship, built of wood, stands on the foundation of one of the original structures. In 1884 a fire destroyed several nearby buildings; water was scarce, but the chapel was saved by barrels of wine which vintners from the surrounding countryside had stored in an old mission cellar. Among old relics at Mission San Jose are some vestments worn by mission founders, candlesticks, a baptismal font surmounted by a wrought-iron cross, and two old mission bells cast in 1815 and 1826.

On the hillside behind the mission building is the QUEEN OF THE HOLY ROSARY COLLEGE, a training school for sisters of the Dominican order. In the modern concrete building about a hundred nuns prepare for teaching. The old red-brick building adjoining is the convent, established in 1890. The school's site was part of the mission property. Many of the old olive trees along the lane leading to the convent and cemetery were planted by the padres.

At 4.5 m. on State 21 is the junction with a dirt road; L. here 0.6 m., to the SANTA INEZ LODGE (private), now the summer home of the Sisters of the Holy Names, a large two-and-a-half-story building with mansard roof which was formerly a resort hotel, near six warm springs, flowing at the rate of 60,000 gallons per day. First white man to see the springs, Juan Bautista de Anza, named them Agua Caliente in 1776. Fulgencia Higuera in 1836 obtained a land grant to this property, which he named Rancho del Agua Caliente. He sold the rancho in 1850 to Clement Columbet, who made it a fashionable spa. After the 1868 earthquake partially destroyed his hotel, A. A. Cohen and William Ralston bought and remodeled it. In 1870 they sold out to Leland Stanford, who set out a fine vineyard and in 1887 built a red-brick winery, still standing west of the hotel. The property passed in 1920 into the hands of Frank Kelly, who tore down some of the old buildings, built new ones, and laid out gardens. Stanford's vineyard was dug up and the winery converted into stables for Kelly's race horses. In 1927 Kelly sold the ranch to the Sisters of the Holy Names.

At 4.8 m. on State 21 is a junction with a paved road: L. on this road, which becomes a dirt road, 1.1 m., to the ABELARDO HIGUERA ADOBE, once the home of the brother of the grantee of Rancho del Agua Caliente (see above). Its crumbling walls have been replaced on two sides with wood. It is now used as a storehouse.

At 5.4 m. is the junction with State 17 at Warm Springs (see below).

WARM SPRINGS, 30.4 m. (65 alt., 59 pop.), an agricultural hamlet, received its name and its past fame from the springs of the nearby SANTA INEZ LODGE (see above).

At 32.9 m. is the junction with unpaved Jacklin Road.

Left on Jacklin Road 1 m. to the HIGUERA ADOBE HOUSES, residence of Jose Higuera, grantee of Rancho les Tularcitos. The two-and-one-half-foot walls of the newer adobe, built about 1831, are protected by a two-story wooden superstructure. This adobe is now used as a home for transient pea-pickers in season. Crumbling ruins are all that remain of the older adobe, built about 1822, which stands a few yards to the right.

MILPITAS (little maize fields), 34.5 m. (13 alt., 450 pop.), once part of a vast land grant, is now an agricultural settlement. First called Penitencia, for the creek that runs through it, it was renamed because of the usual mispronunciation by Yankees, for Nicolas Berryessa's Rancho Milpitas. Milpitas is somewhat of a political barometer: “As goes Milpitas so goes the State.” The reports of voting here many times have indicated State-wide election results before complete returns were in.

Left from Milpitas on paved Calaveras Road 2 m. to the junction with Piedmont Road, where stands (R) the neat, white ALVISO ADOBE (private), built here on Arroyo de los Coches about 1841 by Jose Maria Alviso, who succeeded Berryessa as owner of Rancho Milpitas. The second story, of frame, was built some time later.

Calaveras Road continues east and then north through the rugged mountains to CALAVERAS RESERVOIR (R), 12 m. an auxiliary source of water for San Francisco. As far back as 1875 there were plans for municipal development of this site, but the Spring Valley Water Company, which was already supplying the city, purchased these lands and water rights also. After the company was purchased by the city, Calaveras Valley was converted into a 32,000,000,000-gallon reservoir in 1925 when an earth and rock fill dam was completed at the lower end of the valley. A dam on Alameda Creek, about three miles east of the reservoir, diverts water to Calaveras by way of a 9,709-foot tunnel. From the reservoir a 44-inch pipe line carries water to the Hetch Hetchy aqueduct that empties into Crystal Springs Lake by gravity (see Peninsula Tour).

At 20 m. is the junction with State 21 at Scott Corners (see East Bay Tour 2).

On the bluff above the Coyote River, crossed by State 17 at 38.3 m., on the grounds of the Clark Nursery, is the LARGEST EUCALYPTUS IN CALIFORNIA, planted in 1868. Its trunk is nine feet in diameter.

SAN JOSE, 41.7 m. (100 alt., 57,651 pop.) (see San Jose).