I always enjoy creating an appliquéd patch to show off in one of the old frames I collect. I often hang groups of them in various sizes on a wall and admire the collection as a whole.
Finished Dimensions
5" x 7"
Materials
5" x 7" frame
5" x 7" dark blue felt, for boy background (pink felt, for girl background)
3½" x 3" white felt, for rabbit head/arms
2½" x 2" sky blue felt, for overalls (yellow felt, for dress)
2" x 1" brown felt, for boy shoes (green felt, for girl shoes)
Embroidery floss in white (for head/arms), orange (for stripes on overalls), purple (for stripes in dress), red (for mouth, nose, and girl shoes), aqua blue (for eyes and boy shoes)
Photocopy of rabbit Patch template (page 119) and Elephant template (page 119), reproduced at 100%
Stitches Used
Satin Stitch, Straight Stitch, Double Running Stitch, Whipstitch. Instructions for these stitches can be found on pages 14–15.
Custom Sizing
To make a patch for a different frame size, cut the background felt to the same size as your frame backing, making sure the edges of the patch will be concealed by the frame. Reduce or enlarge the appliqué design on a photocopier to suit the patch size.
Alternate Templates
This project can also be made with the elephant template (page 119) or giraffe template (page 117), reproduced at 100%.
1. Cut Appliqué Pieces
With paper scissors, cut out the rabbit head/arms and overalls or dress from the Rabbit Patch template, and the shoe from the Elephant template. Pin the paper patterns to the felt pieces as designated in Materials and cut out the appliqué pieces with fabric shears. You will need to cut 2 shoes.
2. Assemble Appliqué Design
Lay out the background fabric and assemble the rabbit, placing the head/arms first. Layer the overalls or dress on top of the arms, and tuck the shoes under the overalls or dress. Once you are happy with the layout and have ensured that the design fits nicely in the frame, temporarily secure the pieces with glue stick to the background.
As you stitch decorative details onto the appliqué, always tie off the knots on the back side of the patch. Sew the eyes with 3-ply aqua blue floss using satin stitches. Sew the mouth and nose with 2-ply red floss, using satin stitches for the nose and straight stitches for the mouth. Using double running stitch and single-ply floss, stitch stripes in the overalls or dress. Using whipstitch and single-ply red floss, stitch the shoes. Whipstitch the head/arms with single-ply white floss.
3. Assemble Frame
Apply glue stick to the backing of the frame and press the patch in place. Assemble the frame.
We operate a letterpress printer at Kata Golda, which is in and of itself a substantial and beautiful machine. But what it allows us to create is truly magical. With it, we are able to print on photo album, guest book, and journal covers, and also make our stationery and business cards. The first time I saw my own letterpress-printed business cards, I knew I needed a special place to keep them. Thus was born this quick and easy project.
Finished Dimensions
4½" x 3"
Materials
4½" x 8" peach felt, for envelope
3½" x 2" mustard felt, for patch
2½" x 2" light pink felt, for outer flower
11/8" x 1" brick red felt, for inner flower
Embroidery floss in brick red (for pocket construction and appliquéd patch) and light pink (for inner flower and outer flower)
Photocopy of Botanical 1 template (page 117), reproduced at 100%
Stitches Used
French Knot, Straight Stitch, Whipstitch, Blanket Stitch. Instructions for these stitches can be found on pages 14–16.
Alternate Templates
This project can also be made with the bird on branch template (page 116) or leaves template (page 116), reproduced at 65%.
1. Cut Appliqué Pieces
With paper scissors, cut out the outer flower 1 and inner flower 1 pieces from the template. Pin the paper patterns to the felt pieces as designated in Materials and cut out the appliqué pieces with fabric shears.
2. Assemble Appliqué Design
Stack the pink and brick red appliqué pieces to form a flower and place them on the mustard felt as shown in the photo at left. Temporarily secure each piece with glue stick.
Using 6-ply light pink embroidery floss, attach the inner flower to the outer flower by tying one French knot at each point of the inner flower, sewing through all 3 layers of felt. Do not cut the floss between knots. When you have sewn the French knots, sew a single straight stitch from each knot toward the center of the flower. Knot off on the back side once the final stitch is completed.
Using whipstitch and single-ply light pink floss, appliqué the outer flower to the mustard patch, spacing the stitches ¼" apart.
3. Create Pocket
Fold the peach felt piece to create a 2½"-deep pocket with a flap (as shown in the drawing at left). Secure both sides of the pocket with straight pins. With 3-ply brick red floss, knot off on the inside bottom corner of one side of the pocket and whipstitch 3 times close together around the corner edge. Then sew a blanket stitch along the pocket’s side edge, spacing the stitches about ¼" apart. Whipstitch around the top corner edge 3 times close together and knot off on the inside.
Repeat on the other side of the pocket.
4. Attach Appliquéd Patch
Fold the flap down to close the pocket and temporarily secure the appliquéd patch in place with glue stick on the center of the flap.
With single-ply brick red floss, insert a needle from the wrong side of the flap, leaving a 3" tail, and straight stitch around the perimeter of the patch. When you have sewn around the entire patch, leave a 3" tail on the wrong side, secure the 2 tails with a square knot, and trim the loose ends.
Holding a photograph in your hand is a special and intimate treat, and it is especially rare these days, as so many pictures are stored and shared digitally instead of in an album. This pocket is a lovely way to keep a special stash of photos on hand. It makes a perfect gift for Grandma or for any other family member or friend who appreciates this “old-fashioned” pleasure.
Finished dimensions
4½" x 7"
Materials
7" x 13" light green felt, for envelope
6" x 3" mint green felt, for patch
5½" x ½" dark green felt, for stem
4" x 1" white felt, for flowers
1" square dark purple felt, for dots
Embroidery floss in orange (for appliquéd patch), red (for pocket construction and French knots), white (for flowers), dark green (for stem), and brick red (for connecting French knots to flowers)
Photocopy of Botanical 2 template (page 117), reproduced at 100%
Stitches Used
Straight Stitch, Whipstitch, French Knot, Double Running Stitch, Blanket Stitch. Instructions for these stitches can be found on pages 14–16.
Custom Sizing
This pocket is designed to hold 4" x 6" photographs. If your prints are a different size, simply make sure that the felt for the envelope is 1" wider and three times taller plus 1" taller than your photos. You may need to enlarge or reduce the template photocopy to accommodate the new dimensions.
Alternate Templates
This project can also be made with the bird on branch template (page 116), leaves template (page 116), snail template (page 118), or dog template (page 118), reproduced at 100%.
1. Cut Appliqué Pieces
With paper scissors, cut out each shape from the template. Pin the paper patterns to the felt pieces as designated in Materials and cut out the appliqué pieces with fabric shears. You will need to make 8 of the purple dots.
2. Assemble Appliqué Design
Assemble the appliqué design on the mint green felt patch as shown in the photograph on page 31. As you sew the appliqués in place, tie off all knots on the wrong side of the patch.
First, temporarily secure the dark green stem to the patch using a glue stick. Using straight stitch and single-ply dark green embroidery floss, stitch around the perimeter of the stem.
Arrange the white flowers on the stem with the smallest flower at the top, and temporarily secure them with glue stick. Using whipstitch and single-ply white floss, stitch around the flowers.
Anchor each purple felt dot in place with a French knot using 6-ply red floss. With single-ply brick red floss and double running stitch, sew a line between each dot and the flower next to it.
3. Create Pocket
Fold and pin the light green felt to create a 4¼"-deep pocket with a flap (as shown in the drawing above left). Secure both sides of the pocket with straight pins. With 3-ply red floss, knot off on the inside bottom corner of one side of the pocket and whipstitch 3 times close together around the edge. Then sew a blanket stitch along the pocket’s side edge, spacing the stitches about ¼" apart. Whipstitch around the top corner edge of the pocket 3 times close together and knot off on the inside.
Repeat on the other side of the pocket.
4. Attach Appliquéd Patch
Fold the flap down to close the pocket and temporarily secure the appliquéd patch in place with glue stick on the center of the flap.
With single-ply orange floss, insert a needle from the wrong side of the flap, leaving a 3" tail, and straight stitch around the perimeter of the patch. When you have sewn around the entire patch, leave a 3" tail on the wrong side, secure the 2 tails with a square knot, and trim the loose ends.
Felt provides a layer of natural cushioning and is therefore an ideal material for protecting something as delicate as a pair of glasses. I tuck this case in a bag that goes with me everywhere and appreciate knowing that my glasses are safe and sound.
Finished Dimensions
2¾" x 6¾"
Materials
8" x 10" sage green felt, for case
1½" x 2" mustard felt, for outer leaves
1" x 1½" peach felt, for inner leaves
Embroidery floss in rose (for case, leaves, and button) and brown (for stem)
¾" diameter button
Photocopy of Leaves template (page 116), reproduced at 65%
Stitches Used
Double Running Stitch, Blanket Stitch, Straight Stitch. Instructions for these stitches can be found on pages 14–15.
Alternate Templates
This project can also be made with the Bird on Branch template (page 116), reproduced at 65%.
1. Cut Case Felt and Appliqué Pieces
With fabric shears, cut two 2½" x 3½" pieces out of the corners of the sage green felt as shown in the drawing on page 36.
With paper scissors, cut out the leaves from the template. Pin the paper patterns to the felt pieces as designated in Materials and cut out the appliqué pieces with fabric shears.
2. Assemble Appliqué Design
Assemble the appliqué design on the sage green felt as shown in the drawing on page 36, with the peach inner leaves stacked on top of the mustard leaves. Make sure that all the leaves slant upward, with the largest ones at the bottom. Temporarily secure the pieces in place with glue stick.
As you complete the decorative stitches for the design during this step, tie off all knots on the wrong side of the felt. Stitch around each inner leaf ⅛" from the edge using double running stitch and single-ply rose floss. Connect the leaves with a branch by sewing stems with 2-ply brown floss and double running stitch (see page 19 for tips on stitching freehand). At each point where the leaf and stem meet, make a single stitch through all layers.
3. Sew Case
With the appliquéd side down, fold the sage green felt on the fold lines (see drawing), tucking the right side under the left to create a top flap piece. With the flap up and out of the way, fold and pin the overlapped fabric in place. Starting at the bottom left corner, tie a knot on the inside of the sandwiched felt with 3-ply rose floss. Blanket stitch across the bottom of all 3 layers with stitches ¼" apart. Straight stitch up the seam on the right side through only two layers of felt, then to the left along the top opening, around the single-layer flap, and back to the opening on the right before knotting off on the inside.
4. Attach Button and Cut Buttonhole
Sew the button onto the center front of the case, 1½" below the opening. Fold the flap over the button and mark a ¾" horizontal slit for the buttonhole. Make sure that the button matches up with the slit before cutting the felt. Keep in mind also that the buttonhole should not be too large or loose, because the felt will stretch. Carefully cut the buttonhole open using the tip of fabric shears or small embroidery scissors. The hole should be roughly ⅛" smaller than the diameter of the button.
I use a variety of pins and needles when I work and this cylinder-shaped pincushion gives me enough room to organize them according to type and size. I always have a couple of pincushions going at the same time—one with all sorts of needles and one just for straight pins.
Finished Dimensions
2½" x 4"
Materials
7¼" x 3¾" rose felt, for pincushion body
2½" x 1¼" orange felt, for pincushion caps
3" x 1" lavender felt, for outer flowers
2" x 1" sage green felt, for inner flowers
Embroidery floss in brick red
Polyester fiberfill or wool stuffing
Photocopy of Botanical 1 template (page 117) and Pincushion Cap template (page 117), reproduced at 100%
Stitches Used
French Knot, Straight Stitch, Whipstitch. Instructions for these stitches can be found on pages 14–16.
1. Cut Appliqué Pieces
With paper scissors, cut out the outer flower 3, inner flower 3, and pincushion cap pieces from the templates. Pin the paper patterns to the felt as designated in Materials and cut out 2 of each piece with fabric shears.
2. Assemble Appliqué Design
Assemble the appliqué designs on the pincushion caps by layering a green inner flower on a lavender outer flower on each orange piece of felt. Temporarily secure all 3 pieces with glue stick. Using 6-ply embroidery floss, tie French knots at each point of the inner flowers, then sew a single straight stitch from each knot toward the center of the flower, sewing through all 3 layers of felt.
3. Sew Pincushion
Using single-ply floss and starting with the needle on the wrong side of the cap, attach the long edge of the rose felt to the cap using whipstitches about ⅛" apart (see drawing). Continue stitching the rose felt to the orange oval until you have stitched all the way along the edge of the rose felt piece—it will overlap itself a little bit at the end. Straight stitch through the overlapped rose felt to the other end of the pincushion.
Attach the second pincushion cap the same way, pausing when there is a ½" opening to stuff the pincushion with fiberfill or wool stuffing. Once it is fully stuffed, finish whipstitching the cap into place. Knot off and tuck the knot under the edge of the cap so that it is not visible.
Durable enough to hold a rock collection, yet dainty enough to take to a tea party, this is the perfect accessory to make a little girl feel like a big girl. It’s such a simple project that you could easily whip up a batch to hand out as favors at your little girl’s next birthday party. If the guests are old enough, let each one choose her own appliqué and teach her how to sew it on all by herself.
Finished Dimensions
8" x 6" x 2" (without handles)
Materials
8½" x 11" rose felt, for bag
Two pieces of 2" x 13" sage green felt, for handle
3½" x 3" brown felt, for dog
Embroidery floss in brick red (for purse construction and handle), light brown (for attaching dog body), dark brown (for nose), and aqua blue (for eyes)
Photocopy of Dog template (page 118), reproduced at 100%
Stitches Used
Whipstitch, Straight Stitch, Double Running Stitch, Satin Stitch. Instructions for these stitches can be found on pages 14–15.
Alternate Templates
This project can also be made with the snail template (page 118) or Bird on Branch template (page 116), reproduced at 100%.
1. Cut Appliqué Pieces and Bag Felt
With paper scissors, cut out the dog body and ear from the template. Pin the paper patterns to the brown felt and cut out the appliqué pieces with fabric shears.
With fabric shears, cut two 1" x 2" rectangles from the center of each long side of the rose felt, as shown in the drawing on page 42.
2. Sew Bag Body
Fold the rose felt in half, lining up the short edges, and secure with straight pins. Using 3-ply brick red floss and starting at the base of the bag (just above the rectangle cut outs), tie a knot on the inside of the bag and sew 3 whipstitches close together. Straight stitch along the side of the bag. Sew 3 whipstitches close together at the top corner, and knot the thread on the inside. Repeat on the other side of the bag. (If the bag is uneven when you finish sewing the sides, you can fix it by trimming the top edge before knotting off.)
Pinch the bottom of one side of the bag base to create a flat edge perpendicular to the side seam. Tie a knot on the inside of the bag and sew 3 whipstitches close together at the corner of the bag base. Straight stitch across the base, making sure to stitch through the bag’s side seam, where the base and sides meet (see drawing). At the other corner of the base, sew 3 whipstitches close together, then knot off on the inside. Repeat on the other side of the bag base.
3. Prepare and Attach Handles
Fold one handle piece lengthwise and, using 3-ply brick red floss and straight stitch, stitch down the length of the felt, creating a 1" x 13" tube. Tie knots at the beginning and end of the stitching on the same side of the tube. Repeat for the other handle piece.
Position a handle on the upper outside edge of the bag, 1" from the top and 1" in from the left side. With double running stitch, sew an X across the handle end, tying off the knots on the inside of the bag. Attach the other end of the handle on the right-hand side in the same manner, making sure not to twist the handle.
Use safety pins to attach the second handle temporarily to the opposite side of the bag so that you can make sure the bag hangs correctly. Adjust the placement as needed, then repeat the steps above to permanently attach the second handle.
4. Appliqué Dog
Using satin stitches, sew eyes on the dog appliqué with 3-ply aqua blue floss; sew the nose with 3-ply dark brown floss.
Position the dog body and ear on the bag and temporarily secure them with glue stick. Using single-ply light brown floss, whipstitch the perimeter of the dog body, then sew around the dog ear, tying off the knots inside the bag.
These dolls are enjoyed by kids and adults alike—I’ve even been told that their “open-to-interpretation” expressions remind some people of their favorite childhood pets. Whether you make a dog, mouse, or rabbit, I hope you enjoy personalizing the faces of these stuffed animals as much as I do.
|
Materials |
Dog Girl |
Dog Boy |
Mouse Girl |
Mouse Boy |
Rabbit Girl |
Rabbit Boy |
|
Head, Outer Ears, & Body |
24" x 7½"tan felt |
24" x 7½"tan felt |
24" x 7½"light gray felt |
24" x 7½"light gray felt |
24" x 7½"white felt |
24" x 7½"white felt |
|
Inner Ears
|
3" x 3"rose felt |
3" x 3"rose felt |
3" x 3"light pink felt |
3" x 3"light pink felt |
3" x 3"peach felt |
3" x 3"peach felt |
|
Shirt |
15" x 4½"rose felt |
12" x 4" dark blue felt |
|
10½" x 5" orange felt |
|
12" x 4" mint green felt |
|
Skirt/Dress/Pants |
12" x 4"pale yellow felt |
10" x 4" sage green felt |
11" x 6¾" pale yellow felt |
10" x 4" forest green felt |
12½" x 7" light pink felt |
10" x 4" light brown felt |
|
Collar |
3½" x 1½" orange felt |
3½" x 1½" yellow felt |
3" x 1½" rose felt
|
3" x 1½" mint green felt |
3½" x 2¼" mint green felt |
|
|
Embroidery Floss |
Dark brown (for eyes, mouth, and nose), tan (for animal construction), rose (for shirt), pale yellow (for skirt), and orange (for collar)
|
Dark brown (for eyes, mouth, and nose), tan (for animal construction), dark blue (for shirt), sage green (for pants), and orange (for collar)
|
Dark brown (for eyes), red (for mouth and nose), light gray (for animal construction), pale yellow (for dress), and rose (for collar and French knots)
|
Dark brown (for eyes), red (for mouth and nose), light gray (for animal construction), orange (for shirt), mint green (for collar), and dark green (for pants)
|
Aqua blue (for eyes), red (for mouth and nose), rose (for swirl in ears and X’s on dress), white (for animal construction), light pink (for dress), and mint green (for collar)
|
Aqua blue (for eyes and X’s on shirt), red (for mouth and nose), rose (for swirl in ears), white (for animal construction), mint green (for shirt) and light brown (for pants)
|
Finished Dimensions
11" x 7" x 1"
Materials
See chart below, plus polyester fiberfill or wool stuffing, and photocopy of Stuffed Animal Dog, Mouse, or Rabbit templates (pages 120–125), reproduced at 100%.
1. Cut Template Pieces
With paper scissors, cut out all of the template pieces. Pin the paper patterns to the felt pieces as designated in Materials and cut out 1 of collar piece (if applicable) and 2 of all the other pieces with fabric shears.
2. Stitch Face
You may wish to freehand stitch the face design using your own inspiration; if so, see the tips on page 19. If you would rather stitch the face using the template as a guide, pin the paper head pattern to the felt and stitch through the paper (see page 18 for more on this technique). Stitch the eyes and nose using 6-ply floss and satin stitch. Stitch the mouth using 2-ply floss and double running stitch. Tie knots on the wrong side of the face.
3. Assemble Head
Lay the head pieces with the wrong sides together, lining up the ear locations. Lay the inner ears on top of the outer ears. For the mouse and rabbit only, make a small tuck in the center of the narrow end of the ear. For the dog only, pinch the narrow end of the ears in half so that they fold slightly. Pin the 2 layered ears to the head at the ear locations, sandwiching their edges between the stacked head pieces. Check to make sure that the ears are facing in the same direction. The fold in the dog ears should face forward and slightly down.
Starting at the neck edge, sew the head pieces together using 2-ply floss and blanket stitch. Sew double running stitch across the ears to attach them securely. Stitch around the entire head, stopping at the other neck edge, and knot off on the inside of the head. For the rabbit only, stitch a “swirl” through the inner and outer ear using a double running stitch and 2-ply floss. Tie knots on the backside of the double-layer ear.
4. Sew Body
Lay the 2 body pieces on top of each other and transfer the dots from the template to the neck edge with marker. Starting at the neck edge, sew around the entire body using 2-ply floss and blanket stitch, leaving an opening between the dots at the neck edge (see drawing). Knot off on the inside of the body.
5. Stuff Body and Head
Stuff the head and body firmly with fiberfill or wool stuffing. The legs and arms should be extra firm; only the torso should feel soft. Add extra stuffing to the neck area on the head and body.
6. Attach Head to Body
Insert the body opening into the head opening, overlapping the edges ½". With 2-ply floss, starting at the middle-back neck edge of the body, whipstitch the head to the body. Sew around the entire neck and tie a secure knot, hiding the knot between the head and body.
7. Attach Clothing
Temporarily secure the collar (if applicable) on the front neck edge of the shirt or dress with glue stick. Using 6-ply floss, join the pieces with 5 French knots (for dog) or whipstitches (rabbit and mouse), spaced evenly across the collar. Set aside.
Lay the skirt or pants pieces on top of each other and sew blanket stitch up one side of the garment with 2-ply floss. Be sure to knot the thread securely at the beginning and end of the seam. Slip the garment onto the doll and sew the other side together. The top of the skirt or pants should be about 1" from the arms, and the bottom should be about 1" from the feet. For the pants, sew blanket stitch around the inner legs, as well.
Attach the shirt or dress using 2-ply floss in the same way you attached the skirt and pants, sewing along both side and shoulder seams. Make sure that the collar is in the front and that the bottom of the shirt overlaps the top of the pants or skirt.
Stitches Used
Satin Stitch, Double Running Stitch, Blanket Stitch, Whipstitch, French Knot. Instructions for these stitches can be found on pages 14–16.
These buckets are a perfect storage solution for everything from embroidery floss and buttons to tiny toys to rolled-up magazines. I like to line up three or four of them in different colors and sizes to create a lovely yet functional display.
Finished Dimensions
Small bucket: 7½" wide x 15" tall before top is rolled
Large bucket: 10" wide x 15" tall before top is rolled
Materials
Small bucket: 7½" circle tomato felt, for base; 22½" x 15" sky blue felt, for sides; 23" x 1½" gold felt, for stripe
Embroidery floss in red
Large bucket: 10" circle dark brown felt, for base; 30" x 15" mint green felt, for sides; 23" x 2" red felt, for stripe
Embroidery floss in bright pink
Stitches Used
Blanket Stitch, Straight Stitch. Instructions for these stitches can be found on pages 14–15.
1. Attach Base to Sides
Using 6-ply embroidery floss, knot off on the edge of the circle and attach the circle to the long edge of the side piece using blanket stitch with stitches ½" apart (see drawing). Sew until the circle is completely attached and the ends of the bucket sides overlap roughly 1½". The overlap fabric will be covered by the stripe in the next step.
2. Sew Stripe Over Bucket Seam
Safety pin one end of the stripe on the outside of the bucket to cover the overlapping fabric that forms the side seam, aligning the stripe so that the end is even with the bucket’s base. Arrange the stripe so that it covers the full 15" seam, and wrap the remaining stripe fabric over the bucket top to cover about half the seam on the inside of the bucket. Safety pin the other end of the stripe in place. (I find it helpful to hold the bucket up to the light to make sure that the stripe lines up on the inside and outside.)
Using 2-ply floss, knot off on the top inside edge of the bucket and straight stitch around the perimeter of the stripe, sewing through all layers of felt (see drawing). It is important to start sewing at the top of bucket because you may need to trim off some excess stripe at the base after stitching. Knot off on the inside of the bucket and trim the bottom edge of the stripe if it is too long. Roll down the top edge in order to make the bucket stand.
These unique tags are so endearing that some recipients may temporarily forget to wonder what’s inside the gift to which they’ve been affixed. They’re also a great way to use leftover felt scraps.
Finished Dimensions
35" x ½" strap (for a box 10" long x 7" wide x 1½" tall)Strap lengths will vary depending on size of gift.
Materials
Two pieces 35" x ½" pink felt (or a ribbon), for straps
1" x 3" rose felt, for flowers
2½" square gold felt, for snail shell
3½" x 2" grass green felt, for snail body
2" circle 80-lb cream-colored paper, for tag
Embroidery floss in brown (for flowers and eyes) and red (for gift card and mouth)
Photocopy of Botanical 2 template (page 117) and Snail template (page 118), reproduced at 100%
Stitches Used
Satin Stitch, Straight Stitch. Instructions for these stitches can be found on pages 14–15.
custom sizing
If your gift is a different size, simply make sure that each strap is long enough to leave 4" tails once it has been wrapped around the gift.
Alternate Templates
This project can also be made with the Botanical 1 template (page 117), Bird on Branch template (page 116), or Leaves template (page 116). Reproduce the template at a size that will suit the package you are wrapping.
1. Cut Appliqué Pieces
With paper scissors, cut out 3 flowers of varying sizes and the snail shell and body from the templates. Pin the paper patterns to the felt pieces as designated in Materials and cut out the shapes with fabric shears.
2. Embellish Straps
Wrap each strap around the box to ensure that it is the correct length and trim accordingly (I like the tails to be about 4" long after wrapping).
Attach a flower to 3 of the strap ends using single-ply brown floss and a single straight stitch secured with a square knot.
Stitch a face freehand onto the snail body, referring to the template. (If you wish to sew a different face on the snail, see the tips on page 19). Stitch the eyes with 3-ply brown floss and small satin stitches, and sew the mouth with single-ply red floss and a single straight stitch.
Write your message on the cream-colored paper and temporarily secure it onto the snail shell with glue stick. Glue the bottom edge of the snail shell to the body. Straight stitch around the perimeter of the paper (through the snail shell, body, and paper) with single-ply red floss.
On the backside of the snail, sew the snail onto the remaining undecorated strap end using single-ply brown floss and a single straight stitch secured with a square knot.
3. Wrap Gift
Wrap one of the felt straps around the gift once and tie a square knot on top of the box. Then wrap the other felt strap around the box on the other two sides and tie a knot.
Being a letter writer, I treasure my stationery pouch and love the way it feels in my hand as I saunter off to find a place to write. I’ve included pockets for two writing utensils, stamps, paper, and envelopes. If you prefer email to handwritten letters, this pouch could also be used to organize household receipts and bills, or even as a wallet.
Finished Dimensions
4¾" x 6½" (for a set of six 4" x 6" cards and envelopes)
Materials
18" x 6½" brown felt, for pouch
Salmon felt: 3½" x 2½" (for pencil pocket) and 2" x 6½" (for spine)
Embroidery floss in cream
Stitches Used
Whipstitch, Straight Stitch, French Knot. Instructions for these stitches can be found on pages 14–16.
1. Sew Pouch
Fold the short sides of the pouch 3¾" toward the center and secure the edges with straight pins (see drawing).
Using 2-ply embroidery floss, knot off on the inside of the pocket at a folded corner and sew 3 whipstitches close together. Stitch through both layers of fabric along the edge of the pocket using straight stitch until you reach the pocket opening, then whipstitch 3 times close together. With the same strand, continue to straight stitch along the open edge of the pocket, taking care to only sew through that single layer of fabric. Whipstitch at the opposite corner 3 times and straight stitch through both layers of fabric to close up the other side of the pocket (see stitching lines in drawing on page 56). Finish with 3 final whipstitches to secure the seam. Repeat to sew the pocket at the other end of the pouch.
2. Sew Spine
Close the pouch like a book, center the salmon felt spine on the outside of the pouch, and safety pin it in place. With 6-ply floss, sew a French knot every ½" around the perimeter of the spine, being careful to stitch through only the spine and one layer of the brown felt (otherwise you will stitch the interior pockets closed). Do not cut the floss between French knots; this will create a line of straight stitches on the insides of the pouch pockets.
3. Sew Pencil Pocket
With the stationery pouch closed, safety pin the pencil pocket into place on the front of the pouch ½" from the lower right corner.
Starting at the top left corner of the pencil pocket and using 2-ply floss, knot off on the back side (i.e., the inside of the stationery pouch pocket) and straight stitch 2 horizontal stitches to secure the pencil pocket edge. Be sure to stitch through only 2 layers of fabric (not all 3)—otherwise, you’ll sew right through your interior pocket. Straight stitch down the left side of the pencil pocket, across the bottom, and up the right side, then sew 2 horizontal stitches at the top right corner to secure it. Straight stitch across the top of the pencil pocket, sewing through that layer of felt only. Then straight stitch a vertical line down the center of the pocket, sewing through 2 layers of felt to create holders for 2 pencils (see drawing). Knot off in the interior of the stationery pouch.
I like to transport the flat work I create—such as illustrations, stationery, or photos—in a portfolio case. The hard back keeps the papers from bending, and the water-resistant wool felt protects the work against coffee spills or unexpected rain. I especially enjoy thinking about what I will put in a portfolio before I start making one and then choosing felt colors to complement those contents.
Finished Dimensions
9¼" x 11¾" (for 8½" x 11" documents)
Materials
Dark brown felt: 24" x 18" (for case) and ½" circle (for button)
Lavender felt: 9" x 11½" (for interior back piece), 7½" x 3¼" (for flap); and 38" x ½" (for strap)
7½" x 3¼" gold felt, for flap
8½" x 11" piece of 1/8"-thick mat board
Embroidery floss in brown
Stitches Used
Straight Stitch. Instructions for this stitch can be found on page 14.
1. Cut Case Felt
With fabric shears, cut a 7½" x 3¼" rectangle from each corner of the dark brown felt (see drawing).
2. Attach Interior Back Piece
Sandwich the mat board between the brown felt and the 9" x 11½" lavender felt, making sure the board is centered. Safety pin the edges of both fabrics. Starting on the brown side, straight stitch around the perimeter of the lavender felt using 2-ply floss. Tie the thread tails in a square knot on the brown side when completed.
3. Attach Flaps
Position the gold flap partially under one of the short brown pieces that extends from the lavender center, overlapping the edges by ¼" (see drawing). Secure the flap with straight pins and straight stitch through both layers of fabric with 2-ply floss, tying the knots on the brown side.
Repeat on the other short side with the lavender flap.
4. Attach Tie Closure
At the center edge of the gold flap, sandwich the lavender strap between the brown felt circle and the flap. Starting on the wrong side of the flap, stitch an X through all 3 layers and tie off on the wrong side with a square knot.
To close the portfolio and tie it shut, see the drawing below left.
Some say these journals are too pretty to write in, but I say they’re too pretty not to write in. Whether you’re jotting down a list of things to do, a quote from a book, or recording a memory, this is a lovely way to chronicle the passage of time and the unfolding of life.
Finished Dimensions
Large journal: 4½" x 6"
Small journal: 4½" x 3"
Materials
Large journal:
Six 8½" x 11" sheets 80-lb cream-colored paper
9¼" x 6" oatmeal felt, for cover
Blue felt: Two pieces 4¼" x 5½" (for patches inside cover) and 3" x 2" (for bird)
Embroidery floss in green (for book construction), blue (for bird), dark brown (for branch), brown (for eye), and red (for beak)
Photocopy of Bird on Branch template (page 116), reproduced at 100%
Small journal:
Three 8½" x 11" sheets 80-lb cream-colored paper
9¼" x 3" pink felt, for cover
2½" x 1½" mint green felt, for outer leaves
Gold felt: Two pieces 4¼" x 2¾" (for patches inside cover) and 2½" x 1½" (for inner leaves)
Embroidery floss in mint green (for book construction) and forest green (for stem and leaves)
Photocopy of Leaves template (page 116), reproduced at 65%
Both journals:
Pencil
Awl (or large, sturdy needle)
Bone folder (or dull edge of a butter knife)
Stitches Used
Double Running Stitch, Whipstitch, Satin Stitch, Straight Stitch. Instructions for these stitches can be found on pages 14–15.
Alternate Templates
This project can also be made with the botanical 2 template (page 117), reproduced at 65% for small journal and 100% for large journal. Or include a pencil pocket on the front cover of the large journal as described in Step 3 of the Stationery Pouch on page 56.
1. Cut Appliqué Pieces
With paper scissors, cut out the template pieces. Pin the paper patterns to the felt pieces as designated in Materials and cut out the appliqué pieces with fabric shears.
2. Stitch Design Details
Bird Design
Using a double running stitch and 3-ply dark brown embroidery floss, stitch a branch across the width of the cover felt. Either freehand stitch the branch design using your own ideas or using the template as a guide (see page 19 for tips about freehand work) or pin the photocopy of the template to the felt and stitch through the paper (see page 18 for more on this technique). Knot off on the wrong side of the work.
Fold the cover in half (to its finished dimensions) and place the bird body on the front cover directly over the branch, as shown in the photograph at left and on page 62. Temporarily secure it in place with glue stick, then whipstitch around the entire shape using single-ply blue floss. Place the wing on the body and whipstitch around the perimeter of the wing. Using 3-ply brown floss and small satin stitches, sew the eye. Sew the beak with 3-ply red floss and a single straight stitch.
leaves design
Sew stem and appliqué across the width of the cover felt as described in Steps 2 and 3 of the Glasses Case on pages 35–36; the appliqués should appear on the front cover only.
3. Sew Patches Inside Cover
Open the journal cover and lay the patches on the inside front and back covers about ¼" from the edges. Temporarily secure the patches in place with glue stick. Using single-ply floss, insert the needle from the patch side, leaving a 3" tail, and straight stitch around the perimeter of the patch. When you have sewn around the entire patch, leave a 3" tail on the wrong side and tie both tails in a square knot. Trim the ends once the knot is secure. Repeat on the other inside cover.
4. Prepare Journal Pages
Stack the sheets of paper and fold them in half (to 8½" x 5½"). Crease the fold with a bone folder and tear it one sheet at a time.
Large journal only
Restack the torn paper and fold it in half once more to make pages that are 4¼" x 5½". Crease the fold with a bone folder to create a pamphlet.
Small journal only
Restack the torn paper and fold it in half to 8½" x 2¾". Crease the fold with a bone folder and tear the sheets again. Restack the paper and fold it in half one last time to create a pamphlet with pages that are 4¼" x 2¾". Crease the fold with a bone folder.
Both journals
Open the pamphlet to the center fold and mark 3 equidistant points with pencil on the inside of the fold; the top and bottom points should be about ¼" from the edge.
Using an awl or sturdy needle, stab through 4 sheets of paper at a time (see drawing). Use your pencil marks as a guide, placing the sheet with the marks on top of the unpunched sheets and repeatedly piercing through the same holes. Take care to pierce directly through the fold.
5. Attach Pages to Cover
Open the cover and center the pages inside it. Open the journal pages to the center fold.
Thread a needle with a strand of 3-ply floss that is about 2½ times the height of the pamphlet. Following the drawing at left, insert the needle from the inside center hole through to the outside cover, leaving a 3" tail. Check that the pamphlet is positioned correctly, then bring the needle back to the inside through the top hole, down through the bottom hole to the outside, and back to the inside of the journal through the center hole. Tie the 2 tails in a square knot, catching the long thread that travels between the top and bottom holes in the knot.
Wool has many amazing qualities, and two of its best are used in this project. Not only will this cozy keep the roots of your plant warm in cooler months, but wool’s moisture-wicking properties will prevent water from evaporating through the terra-cotta, keeping the soil moist. And of course, a hand-stitched cozy adds a whimsical touch to any plant display.
Finished Dimensions
15¼" x 3½" (to fit a 5½" diameter terra-cotta pot)
Materials
15¼" x 3½" dark blue felt, for cozy
5" x 2" light green felt, for outer leaves
5" x 2" sage green felt, for inner leaves
7" x 1" mint green felt, for ties
Embroidery floss in light green (for stem), forest green (for inner leaves), and dark blue (for darts)
Photocopy of Leaves template (page 116), reproduced at 100%
Stitches Used
Straight Stitch, Double Running Stitch. Instructions for these stitches can be found on page 14.
Custom Sizing
This pattern can be easily adapted to a pot of any size. I prefer to use pots that have a lip at the top edge because it provides an edge for the cozy to butt against. To determine the height of the cozy, measure the pot from the bottom of the lip to ½" above the bottom of the pot. To determine the width of fabric needed, measure around the pot just beneath the lip, then add 2½".
Alternate Templates
This project can also be made with the bird on branch template (page 116), or botanical 1 or 2 templates (page 117), reproduced at 100%.
1. Cut Appliqué Pieces
With paper scissors, cut out the template pieces and pin them to the felt pieces as designated in Materials. With fabric shears, cut out 2 of inner and outer leaf 1, 2 of inner and outer leaf 2, and 1 of inner and outer leaf 3.
2. Assemble Appliqué Design
Stack the corresponding outer and inner leaf pieces and temporarily secure them with glue stick. Lay out the assembled leaves on the blue felt background, with larger leaves on one end of the cozy and smaller leaves on the other end. Do not position leaves within 2½" of the side edges of the background felt. Alternate the direction of the leaves so that they point at roughly 45-degree angles toward the top and bottom of the pot. See the photo at left and the drawing below for suggested layouts.
When you are happy with the layout of the leaves, temporarily secure them on the blue felt with glue stick. Using a straight stitch and single-ply forest green embroidery floss, stitch ⅛" inside the perimeter of the inner leaves to secure the appliqué pieces.
Using double running stitch and 2-ply light green floss, stitch between the bases of the leaves to freehand stitch a stem, with the largest leaves at the base of the stem. Make one stitch in the base of each leaf appliqué (through all 3 layers) where the leaf connects to the stem. (For tips on freehand stitching natural elements, see page 19.)
3. Make Ties and Cut Holes
Cut the mint green felt in half lengthwise, creating two 7" x ½" strips.
Using the tip of fabric shears, make 2 pairs of vertical slits at one end of the blue background felt as shown in the drawing on the opposite page.
Wrap the cozy snugly around the pot just beneath the lip, overlapping the edge with the slits on the outside. (The cozy will not be snug at the bottom if the pot is tapered—you’ll fix that in the next step.) Pin the overlapping edges together and carefully insert the tip of the fabric shears through the slits you already made, cutting 4 corresponding slits at the opposite end of the cozy (see drawing).
Remove the pins and fasten the cozy to the pot by lacing the mint green strips through the slits and and tying the ends together in a basic overhand knot (see drawing and photograph).
4. Add Darts to Bottom of Cozy
With the cozy on the pot, mark locations for 3 darts, evenly spaced along the bottom edge. Fold the felt at the dart locations and pin in place vertically, making sure that the bottom of the cozy fits snugly. Remove the cozy from the pot and open it out flat. Sew 3 horizontal straight stitches through each dart ¾" from the bottom edge with 2-ply dark blue floss, knotting off on the wrong side (see drawing).
Just as a wool sweater will keep you warm on a chilly day, this cozy will keep your drink warm as you work your way through the morning paper or a stitching project. And because it has a built-in coaster, it can be set down safely on any surface between leisurely sips.
Finished Dimensions
13" x 31/8" (to fit a 33/8" diameter x 3¾" tall mug)
Materials
13" x 31/8" light orange felt, for cozy
Dark brown felt: 13" x 31/8" (for cozy lining) and two 3½" circles (for coaster)
2" x 3" red felt, for birds
1" x 3" brick red felt, for wings
Embroidery floss in brown (for branch), red (for birds and wings), and light blue (for eyes and cozy construction)
¾" button
Photocopy of Bird on Branch template (page 116), reproduced at 65%
Photocopy of Bird on Branch template (page 116), reproduced at 50%
Stitches Used
Double Running Stitch, Whipstitch, Satin Stitch, Straight Stitch. Instructions for these stitches can be found on pages 14–15.
Custom Sizing
It’s easy to adjust the size of the cozy to fit your favorite mug. To determine the height of the fabric needed, make the cozy ½" to 1" shorter than the cup’s height. To determine the length of fabric needed, measure the diameter of the mug, multiply it by 3½, and add 1". Cut out the coaster pieces so they are 1/8" larger than the diameter of the mug.
Alternate Templates
This project can also be made with the botanical 2 template (page 117) or leaves template (page 116), reproduced at 100%.
1. Cut Appliqué Pieces
With paper scissors, cut out the two sets of bird and wing template pieces and pin them to the felt pieces as designated in Materials. With fabric shears, cut out the appliqué pieces, then pin and cut one more set of the larger bird and wing.
2. Trim Cozy to Fit Mug
Wrap the orange felt rectangle around the mug and trim the left edge so that the cozy will fit through the handle (see drawing). Holding the strip in place through the handle, trim the top and bottom edges as needed so that ½" to 1" of mug shows at the top of the cozy, and roughly ⅛" shows at the bottom.
3. Assemble Appliqué Design
Using a double running stitch and 3-ply brown embroidery floss, stitch a branch across the cozy. Either freehand stitch the branch design using your own ideas or using the template as a guide (see page 19 for tips about freehand work) or pin the photocopy of the template to the felt and stitch through the paper (see page 18 for more on this technique). Knot off on the wrong side of the felt.
Next, position the bird bodies and wings onto the branch on the cozy (see drawing for suggested placement), and temporarily secure them with glue stick. Using single-ply red floss, whipstitch the birds and then the wings to the background. Referring to the template as a guide, mark a dot on each bird with permanent marker to make an eye. Stitch the eyes with 3-ply light blue floss, using satin stitch.
4. Sew Cozy Lining
Trim the dark brown felt rectangle to the same size as the orange felt and lay the 2 pieces with wrong sides together. Starting on the brown side with single-ply light blue floss, leave a 3" tail and straight stitch around the perimeter of the cozy. Tie a square knot on the brown side.
5. Attach Coaster
Stack the 2 dark brown felt circles. Connect them to the bottom edge of the cozy using single-ply light blue floss and whipstitch. Start at the straight edge of the handle and stitch around the perimeter, connecting coaster to cozy. When you get back to the handle area, continue the line of whipstitches around the rim of the double-layered coaster, even though there is no cozy to sew through (this will give a finished look). Knot off inside the cozy at the same place you began.
6. Attach Button
Using permanent marker, make a dot in the center of the thin section of cozy that slips through the handle. Sew the button on the dot and tie off with a square knot on the wrong side. Wrap the cozy around the mug snugly and mark the spot where the buttonhole should go. Make a vertical slit for the buttonhole using the tip of fabric shears. Because felt stretches, the hole should be roughly ⅛" smaller than the diameter of the button.
Trim for handle
Start whipstitch here
Finger puppets are a great way to put leftover scraps of felt to use. Plus they’re quick to make and provide a fun opportunity to experiment with stitches, facial expressions, shapes, and colors. And when it’s time to put your finger puppets to bed, tuck them into a sweet puppet holder, as shown on page 77.
Finished Dimensions
1¾" x 3¼" (not including tail)
Materials
Light gray felt: 2½" x 5½" (for body and outer ears) and 7" x ½" (for tail)
1½" x ¾" red felt, for inner ears
Embroidery floss in light gray (for mouse construction, ears, and tail), brown (for eyes and nose), and red (for mouth)
Photocopy of Mouse finger puppet template (page 118), reproduced at 100%
Stitches Used
Satin Stitch, Straight Stitch, Double Running Stitch. Instructions for these stitches can be found on pages 14–15.
Customizing
The template given is for a mouse, but you can easily create other animals by adjusting the ear shapes, facial features (such as whiskers for a cat), and tail length.
Mouse Finger Puppet
1. Cut Appliqué Pieces
With paper scissors, cut out the template pieces. Pin the paper patterns to the felt pieces as designated in Materials and cut out the shapes with fabric shears. You will need 2 of each inner and outer ear.
2. Stitch Mouse Face
Using satin stitches and 2-ply embroidery floss in the colors designated in Materials, stitch the face freehand. Refer to the template or see the tips on page 19, if you wish to create a different face.
3. Construct Puppet
Stack the inner ear pieces on top of the outer ear pieces. Fold the mouse body to form a finger puppet, overlapping the edges by ½". Sandwich each ear between the front and back of the puppet, with the inner ear facing forward, and pin all layers in place.
Using single-ply light gray floss, tie a knot on the inside of the puppet’s upper right back corner and straight stitch through all layers across the top of the puppet (front, ears, and back overlap). Once the ears are attached, stitch around the inner ears, then, on the backside, stitch the overlapping gray felt down to the base of the puppet. Attach the tail with double running stitch and tie off inside.
Finished Dimensions
12" x 8½", with five 2¼" x 2½" pockets
Materials
12" x 11" mint green felt, for case
½" x 20½" dark purple felt, for strap
Dark brown embroidery floss
Stitches Used
Whipstitch, Straight Stitch. Instructions for these stitches can be found on pages 14–15.
Puppet Bed
1. Fold and Sew Case
Lay out the mint green felt and fold the long bottom edge up 2½" (see drawing). Pin the fold in place, then place pins at equal distances across it to create five 2¼" wide pockets.
Starting at the bottom right edge, tie a knot on the inside of the pocket and sew 2 whipstitches using 2-ply floss. Straight stitch up to the upper right edge of the pocket and whipstitch twice. Continuing in straight stitch, sew up the right side of mint green felt, across the top, and down the left side. When you reach the top left pocket edge, sew 2 whipstitches, straight stitch down the pocket, and sew 2 more whipstitches at bottom left edge before knotting off on the inside of the pocket.
To form the inner pockets, knot off on the inside bottom of a pocket, then straight stitch up to the pocket edge, removing pins as you go. Sew 2 horizontal straight stitches at the top of each pocket opening and knot off inside the pocket. Repeat for the remaining pockets.
2. Attach Strap
Attach the strap directly above the pocket opening on the outside of the case (see drawing). Sew it in place using 3-ply floss and 3 straight stitches. Knot off on the inside of the flap.
3. Put Puppets to Bed
Tuck the puppets into the pockets, fold the top flap over them, and loosely roll up the case toward the strap. Wrap the strap around the roll and secure it.
This adorable pillow will get used over and over again as your little one loses baby teeth. Instead of tucking the tooth under a bed pillow for the Tooth Fairy to pick up, your child can hold the pillow like a favorite stuffed animal. And rest assured, it provides a safe and secure pocket to tuck the tooth into—an important feature, since tiny teeth are easy to misplace.
Finished Dimensions
6" square
Materials
Two 6" squares peach felt or light blue felt, for pillow
3¼" x 3" rose felt or dark blue felt, for pocket
1" square yellow felt, for star
2½" x 3/16" light brown felt, for wand
1" square white felt, for moon
Embroidery floss in purple and grass green (for border of pink pillow and pocket), red and yellow (for border of blue pillow and pocket), light brown (for wand), white (for moon), and yellow (for star)
Polyester fiberfill or wool stuffing
Photocopy of the Tooth Fairy Pillow template (page 116), reproduced at 100% (make an extra photocopy of the Tooth Fairy Pillow template at 80% for pink pillow)
Stitches Used
Straight Stitch, Whipstitch, Double Running Stitch. Instructions for these stitches can be found on pages 14–15.
1. Cut Appliqué Pieces
With paper scissors, cut out the template pieces (for the pink pillow, use the star and wand templates from the 80% photocopy, and the pocket template from the 100% photocopy). Pin the paper patterns to the felt pieces as designated in Materials and cut out the appliqué pieces using fabric shears.
2. Assemble Appliqué Design on Pocket
For the pink pillow, arrange the star and wand on the pocket as shown in the photo at right, placing the star just over the tip of the wand. For the blue pillow, arrange the star and moon on the pocket as shown in the photo at right. Temporarily secure the pieces in place with glue stick. Using single-ply light brown embroidery floss, knot off on the wrong side and straight stitch down the center of the wand. Using single-ply yellow floss and always knotting off on the wrong side of the felt, make a stitch at each star point, from the point toward the center. Using single-ply white floss, knot off on the wrong side and whipstitch around the perimeter of the moon.
Center the pocket on one of the pink or blue felt squares and safety pin it in place. Starting at the upper right corner of the pocket, with 3-ply floss, knot off on the back side and sew 2 horizontal stitches to secure the pocket edge. Straight stitch down the right side, across the bottom, and up the left side, then sew 2 horizontal stitches at the top left corner. Straight stitch across the open edge of the pocket, sewing through that layer of felt only, and knot off on the wrong side. Then, using 3-ply floss in second color, sew along the same path you followed with the first floss, alternating stitches to create a 2-color double running stitch. See the stitch lines in the drawing at left.
Stitch through 2 layers of felt around sides, bottom, and at top corners of pocket, but through 1 layer of felt across pocket opening
3. Sew Pillow
Align the felt squares on top of each other, with the appliqué design on the outside. Knot off on the wrong side and sew a two-color double running stitch, as described in Step 2, around the pillow, leaving about half a side open so you can insert the stuffing.
Stuff the pillow, making sure to push the stuffing into the corners, so that it fills evenly. Stop when you are happy with the feel of the pillow—I like to make mine as full as possible. (An overstuffed pillow will also help keep the tooth snugly in the pocket.)
Finish sewing around the perimeter of the pillow and tie the tails in a square knot to secure the threads, tucking the tails between the pillow front and back to hide them.
I originally designed this wall hanging for my little girl after she started to read and write and began to enjoy sending and receiving letters. As it turned out, we all made use of the big organizational pockets, so this wall hanging has become a permanent fixture in our home.
Finished Dimensions
18" x 14"
Materials
18" x 14" purple felt, for wall hanging front
18" x 14" yellow felt, for wall hanging back
8" x 6" red felt, for pocket
8" x 6" orange felt, for pocket
White felt: 18" x 3" (for letters) and three ½" x 7" strips (for loops)
Embroidery floss in purple (for pockets and lettering) and mint green (for perimeter of wall hanging and loop attachment)
Photocopy of the Alphabet template (page 115), reproduced at 200%
Stitches Used
Whipstitch, Straight Stitch.Instructions for these stitches can be found on pages 14–15.
1. Cut Appliqué Pieces
With paper scissors, cut out the letters needed to spell mail, in, and out (a, i, l, m, n, o, t, and u). Pin the paper patterns to the white felt and cut out the letters using fabric shears. You will need 2 of the letter i.
2. Assemble Appliqué Design
Center the word in on the red felt. Center out on the orange felt. Center mail at the top of the purple felt, with the tallest letter ½" from the top edge. Temporarily secure all letters in place with glue stick, then whipstitch around the perimeter of each one (as well as along the inside edge, where applicable) with single-ply purple floss, keeping the stitches roughly ½" apart. Knot off the tails at the beginning and end of each letter and tie a square knot on the wrong side.
3. Attach Pockets to Background
Set each pocket ¼" from the bottom and side edges of the purple felt (see drawing) and safety pin them in place. Starting at the upper left corner of a pocket and using 3-ply purple floss, knot off on the back side and sew 2 horizontal stitches to secure the edge. Straight stitch down the left side, across the bottom, and up the right side, and sew 2 horizontal stitches at the top right corner to secure it. Straight stitch across the open edge of the pocket, sewing through that layer of felt only, and knot off on the wrong side of the purple felt.
Repeat to attach the second pocket.
4. Attach Backing
Lay the purple wall hanging front, with the pockets facing up, on top of the yellow back. Using straight stitch and 3-ply mint green floss, knot off between the 2 layers and straight stitch around the perimeter of the wall hanging. Knot off on the wrong side, tucking the tails between the layers.
5. Create Hanging Loops
Attach the 3 loops at the top edge of the wall hanging (one at each corner and one centered) by sandwiching ½" of finished wall hanging between the loop ends and stitching an X with 6-ply mint green floss. Knot off on the back side of the wall hanging.
We all like to mark our own special space, and here is an easy way to do just that. Thanks go to Kimberly Augustine for making the prototype as a gift for my daughter, Odette. Kimberly’s clever work gave me the idea to create all sorts of door signs, which can spell out any name, or even a message such as “Welcome,” “Open,” “Closed,” or “WC.”
Finished Dimensions
3" x 26¾" (for a 6-letter sign)
Materials
3" yellow circles (2 for each letter in sign)
2" x 2½" red felt pieces, for letters (1 for each letter in sign)
1" x 30" purple felt strip (see Custom Sizing for adjusting length)
Embroidery floss in light blue (for letters) and red (for circles)
Photocopy of the Alphabet template (page 115), reproduced at 200%
Stitches Used
Whipstitch, Straight Stitch. Instructions for these stitches can be found on pages 14–15.
Custom Sizing
The length of your sign will depend on how many letters you wish to use. To determine how much purple felt you need, do the following calculation:
___ letters x 3" = ___" (for circles)
+ ___ spaces between letters x ½" = ___"
+ 9½" for loop at top and tail at bottom
= ___" (length of purple strip)
A standard doorknob is mounted 36" from the floor, so if you want to use more than 8 letters, you will need to reduce the size of the circles and letters—or hang the sign from something higher than a doorknob.
1. Cut Appliqué Pieces
With paper scissors, cut out the template pieces you need for your sign and pin them to the red felt pieces. With fabric shears, cut out the appliqué pieces.
2. Assemble Appliqué Design
Temporarily secure each letter to a yellow circle with glue stick. Whipstitch the letters onto the circles using single-ply light blue embroidery floss and spacing the stitches ½" apart. Leaving a tail, start sewing on the back side of the circle and whipstitch around the perimeter of each letter (as well as the inner edge, where applicable). Knot off the tails at the beginning and end of each letter in a square knot.
3. Assemble Sign
Stack each appliquéd yellow circle on top of a blank yellow circle and temporarily secure in place with glue stick.
Fold one end of the purple felt strip over 3½", making a loop. Position the top center edge of the circle with the first letter for the sign over the loose end of the loop; safety pin all 4 layers in place. Continue pinning letters in place along the strip, spacing the circles ½" apart (see drawing). Using straight stitch and single-ply red floss, stitch around the perimeter of each circle, making sure to sew through both the circle and the purple strip at the top and bottom. Tie off the tails on each circle on the back side with a square knot.
Whether in a child’s room or in a sitting room, a colorful pile of textured pillows makes a nice visual impact. I like to mix and match appliquéd animal pillows with patchwork pillows in the same tones, and enjoy how the irregular shapes in the patchwork and the playful shapes of the animals complement one another.
Finished Dimensions
13½" square
Materials
12" square pillow insert
Three size-4 sew-on snaps
Elephant pillow:
Rose felt: 13½" square (for pillow front) and 1½" x 5" (for snap covers)
Yellow felt: 13½" square (for pillow back) and 7" square (for snap covers, elephant jacket, and sleeve)
5" x 3" pink felt, for skirt or shorts
5" x 6" gray felt, for head, ear, and hands
½" x 3" dark blue felt, for shoes
Embroidery floss in aqua blue (for snaps, snap covers, border, and skirt or shorts), yellow (for jacket, sleeve, and shoes), red (for jacket and mouth), brown (for eyes and eyebrows), and gray (for head, ear, and hands)
Photocopy of Elephant template (page 119), reproduced at 200%
Patchwork pillow:
Scraps of felt to make two 13½" square pieces in different hues of red, for patchwork
Six 1½" sage green felt circles, for snap covers
Embroidery floss in light blue (for patchwork) and brick red (for border, snaps, and snap covers)
Stitches Used
Satin Stitch, Straight Stitch, Double Running Stitch, Whipstitch. Instructions for these stitches can be found on pages 14–15.
Custom Sizing
To adjust the size of your pillowcase, measure the length and width of the pillow you would like to cover and add 1½" to each measurement.
Alternate Templates
This project can also be made with the Rabbit Patch template (page 119) or giraffe template (page 117), reproduced at 200%.
1. Cut Elephant Pillow Appliqué Pieces
With paper scissors, cut out the template pieces and pin them to the felt pieces as designated in Materials. Using fabric shears, cut out the appliqué pieces. Make sure to plan ahead before you cut so that you do not run out of felt. You will need 1 each of the head, ear, sleeve, jacket, and skirt or shorts pieces; 2 each of the shoes and hands; and 3 rose and 3 yellow pieces cut into 1½" circles for the snap covers.
2. Create Pillow Front and Back
Patchwork Pillow
Using the red scraps and light blue floss, follow the patchwork instructions on page 17 to make two 13½" square patchwork pieces.
Elephant Pillow
Lay out the appliqué pieces on the rose background, beginning with the shoes, then adding, in order, the skirt or shorts, jacket, sleeve, and head; each piece should overlap ⅛". Tuck the hands ⅛" under the sleeves and cuffs. Place the ear on the head over its existing ear to create a “doubled" ear layer. Temporarily secure all pieces with glue stick.
Mark small dots for eye placement with permanent marker. Satin stitch the eyes and straight stitch eyebrows right above them with 6-ply brown embroidery floss. Using 6-ply red floss, stitch the mouth with a single long stitch. Refer to the template for placement of all facial features, or see page 19 for tips on freehand sewing other types of facial expressions. Be sure to tie off all knots on the wrong side of the rose felt.
With 6-ply red floss, make 3 X’s down the front of the jacket, creating each X by sewing 2 long straight stitches that cross each other in the middle. Sew cuffs onto the sleeves with red floss using a double running stitch. Make sure, as you do this, to sew through the hands, which are tucked beneath the sleeves.
To create the decorative pattern on the skirt, stitch 4 rows of arrowheads, pointing up, using 2-ply aqua blue floss. (The arrowheads are created by sewing pairs of long straight stitches at right angles to each other.) If you don’t have room to create a full arrowhead at the edge of the skirt, simply sew a single slanted stitch. To stitch vertical stripes in the shorts, use double running stitch and single-ply aqua blue floss.
Using single-ply gray floss, whipstitch around the edges of the head, ear, and hands. With single-ply yellow floss, whipstitch around the edges of the jacket, sleeves, and shoes. All whipstitches should be spaced approximately ½" apart. With yellow floss, sew a double running stitch from the trunk down to the cuff to define the right sleeve.
3. Sew Pillowcase
Lay the two patchwork pieces on top of each other with wrong sides together, or lay the appliqué pillow front on top of the yellow pillow back with the pattern facing up. Straight stitch down one side, across the bottom, and up the other side using 3-ply floss, tying knots at the beginning and end of the stitching on the inside of the pillowcase. Stitches should be about ¼" in from the edge, ¼" long, and ¼" apart (see drawing).
Using 2-ply floss, attach 3 snaps to the inside front of the pillowcase about 3/4" from the top edge. The side snaps should be 2" in from the edge, and the third snap should be centered between them (see drawing). Sew the corresponding snap pieces onto the other inside edge of the pillowcase. For the elephant pillow, attach the rose snap covers to the yellow background and the yellow covers to the rose background by sewing an X in the center of each circle using 2-ply floss and 2 long straight stitches. Attach sage green snap covers to the patchwork pillow in the same way. Knot off as close to the snap as possible on the inside of the pillowcase.
Insert the pillow into the case and close the snaps.
When it comes to baby accessories and toys, I’m always drawn to simplicity. Watching my own daughter grow, I loved seeing her respond to basic animal shapes, colors, and faces. This blanket is designed to engage the baby’s imagination while in use as a warm covering or play mat.
Finished dimensions
34" square
Materials
Mint green felt: 34" square (for quilt back) and 17" square (for quilt front)
17" square lavender felt, for quilt front
Yellow felt: Two 17" squares (for quilt front) and 11" x 7" (for giraffe body)
Two 2½" circles rose felt, for quilt center
1" x 7" dark brown felt, for dots
Embroidery floss in rose (for quilt border), forest green (for piecing quilt top and attaching center circles), mint green (for attaching quilt top to quilt back), dark brown (for tail, hoofs, and dots), yellow (for giraffe body), red (for giraffe nose), and aqua blue (for giraffe eyes)
Photocopy of Giraffe template (page 117), reproduced at 200%
Stitches Used
Satin Stitch, Whipstitch, Double Running Stitch, Straight Stitch, Blanket Stitch. Instructions for these stitches can be found on pages 14–15.
Alternate Templates
This project can also be made with the rabbit Patch template (page 119) or elephant template (page 119), reproduced at 200%.
1. Cut Appliqué Pieces
With paper scissors, cut out the template pieces and pin them to the felt pieces as designated in Materials. With fabric shears, cut out the giraffe body and dots.
2. Assemble Giraffe Appliqué
Place the giraffe body on the lavender felt, then position the dots on the body, as shown on the template, trimming the dots as needed. Temporarily secure the pieces in place with glue stick.
Freehand stitch the hoofs, eyes, nose, and tail as follows, using the template as a guide.
Using 6-ply embroidery floss, satin stitch hoofs onto the feet with dark brown floss, the eyes with aqua blue floss, and the nose with red floss. Using single-ply yellow embroidery floss, whipstitch the giraffe body to the background with stitches spaced ½" apart. Using double running stitch and 6-ply brown floss, stitch the tail, making first stitch into giraffe body.
3. Assemble Quilt Top
Lay out the 4 quilt top squares with each square overlapping the one next to it by ¼" (see drawing for suggested layout and overlap). Safety pin the squares together, using 3 pins to attach each side. Using 2-ply forest green floss, straight stitch the squares together ⅛" from the edge, removing the safety pins as you go. Secure the knots on the wrong side of the work at the beginning and end of the stitching line. Don’t worry if the center of the quilt looks unfinished at this point—it will be hidden by the rose circle appliqués in the next step.
4. Attach Quilt Top to Backing
Lay the quilt top on the mint green backing with the appliqué facing upward. Smooth out the fabric and safety pin the pieces together along the stitched lines. Using 2-ply mint green floss, sew a double running stitch along the existing stitched lines, filling in the spaces between the forest green stitches. The effect will be a simple mint green straight stitch on the back of the quilt and a double running stitch with alternating colors on the front. Remove the safety pins and smooth out the fabric as you stitch.
Using glue stick, temporarily secure the rose circles on the center of the front and back of the quilt, aligning the circles so they are stacked one on top of the other. Using 2-ply forest green floss, sew a straight stitch around the perimeter of both circles at the same time ⅛" from the edge, tying square knots at the beginning and end of the stitching line on the back side of the quilt. You will be sewing through 4 layers of felt the whole way, which requires a bit of patience. Take your time and check to make sure that your stitches look nice on both sides of the quilt.
Smooth the quilt out flat. Trim the edges if the front and back sides are not even. (I am more concerned about the shape and feel of the quilt than I am about creating a perfect square.) Using 6-ply rose floss, blanket stitch the perimeter of the quilt. The stitches should be roughly ½" apart and ¼" from the edge (see drawing). Check frequently to make sure that the front and back sides continue to match up evenly (you may need to trim as you work). When you run out of a strand of thread, tie a new strand to the old one using a square knot and continue working in blanket stitch. It looks best if the knot lands between 2 stitches so that the tails can be easily tucked inside the quilt.
When I make patchwork, I stick to one color family and play around with different tones, mixing and matching the pieces to see which arrangement best distributes the light and dark shapes. I have patchwork curtains in shades of green in my bedroom year-round, and in the winter I hang red curtains in my glassed-in front porch. When light shines through the curtains, the room is infused with a soft glow that makes me feel warm and cozy.
Finished Dimensions
31" x 32" (not including loops), to cover a 30" square window
Materials
Felt scraps in 5 different hues of red, for patchwork
7" x 10" pink felt, for loops
Embroidery floss in light blue (for curtain construction) and brick red (for loops)
1" curtain rod
Stitches Used
Straight Stitch. Instructions for this stitch can be found on page 14.
Custom Sizing
You can easily adapt these instructions to accommodate whatever materials you have on hand, and whatever size window you want to dress. See page 17 for instructions on how to design your own patchwork.
The loops at the top of the curtain should be spaced evenly.
1. Create Patchwork Piece
Using the felt pieces and light blue floss, follow the patchwork instructions on page 17 to make a 31" x 32" patchwork piece. Cut seven 1" x 10" strips of pink felt for loops.
2. Create and Attach Loops
Lay out the 7 curtain loops along the top of the patchwork piece, spacing them approximately 4½" apart. Fold each loop over so that it sandwiches the top patchwork edge by 1" on each side. With 6-ply brick red floss, sew 3 horizontal straight stitches in the 1" overlap of each loop, sewing through all layers. Tie all knots on the wrong side of the curtain.
3. Hang Curtain
Trim the thread tails and slide the curtain onto the rod. Hang it with the right side of the curtain facing inside the room. If the curtain is too long, trim the bottom edge, following the instructions on page 17.
I use patchwork to make a variety of items, from table runners to curtains (see page 96) to wrappings for fragile and special gifts. But this patchwork potholder is one of my favorites because it is not only beautiful and functional, but is also a trusted tool for my nine-year-old baker and me. Though it may require a bit more time to create than some of the other projects in this book, it is well worth the effort.
Finished Dimensions
7¾" square
Materials
Yellow potholder:
4 pieces 8" x 4" felt in different hues of yellow, for patchwork and loop
2" x 31" rose felt, for binding
Embroidery floss in green (for patchwork and loop) and brick red (for binding)
8" square cotton quilt batting
Green potholder:
4 pieces 8" x 4" felt in different hues of green, for patchwork and loop
2" x 31" brick red felt, for binding
Light pink embroidery floss
8" square cotton quilt batting
Stitches Used
Straight Stitch. Instructions for this stitch can be found on page 14.
1. Create Patchwork Pieces
Using the patchwork felt pieces and following the patchwork instructions on page 17, make 2 patchwork pieces, each 7¾" square, for the front and back of the potholder. Cut an 8" x 1" piece from the patchwork felt of your choice for the loop.
2. Assemble Potholder
Sandwich the batting between the wrong sides of the 2 patchwork pieces. Trim the edges so that all sides line up before you bind them together.
Wrap the binding around each edge of the sandwich so that half falls on each side of the potholder, pinning it in place as you wrap. Fold the binding over on itself as you round the corners (see drawing), just as you might tuck a corner when making a bed. Sew the binding to the potholder with a straight stitch, using 2-ply embroidery floss and making sure to sew through all layers. When the binding is attached all the way around the potholder, overlap the binding edges and knot off the thread.
3. Create and Attach Loop
Fold the 8" x 1" strip of felt lengthwise and sew a straight stitch using 2-ply embroidery floss, creating a tube. Tie knots at the beginning and end of the stitching line on the same side of the tube.
Attach the loop to the corner of the binding where the stitch line began and ended (see drawing). Sew one side of the loop on each side of the finished binding using 2-ply embroidery floss and being careful not to twist the loop. Stitch 4 times through all layers to secure the loop, and finish by tying a square knot between the potholder and loop. Hide the loose thread ends.
This bag is very popular with both kids and adults. The wide strap on the kid’s version fits nicely over a child’s shoulder and is comfortable for lugging books to school, while the adult version is perfect for people like me who tend to carry around stitching projects, books, and journals. Both bags have pockets for pens, keys, and anything else you might need to find quickly. If you’re making the bag as a gift, have your intended recipient pick out the colors or appliqué, and if the bag needs some reinforcement after extended use, rest assured that additional stitches only give it more character.
Finished Dimensions
Kid’s bag: 12" x 10½"
Adult bag: 14" x 13"
Materials
Kid’s bag:
12" x 32½" lavender felt, for bag front, back, and flap
Four 3¼" x 28½" pieces mint green felt, for sides/strap
Yellow felt: 5½" x 6" (for large pocket) and two 4½" x 5" pieces (for smaller pockets)
2½" square white felt, for rabbit head/arms
2" x 2¼" pink felt, for dress
1" square purple felt, for shoes
Embroidery floss in rose (for bag, sides/strap, pockets, mouth, nose, and shoes), purple (for front pocket), forest green (for rabbit eyes), grass green (for stripes in dress), white (for rabbit head/arms)
1" square of sew-on Velcro
Photocopy of the Rabbit Patch template (page 119) and Elephant template (page 119), reproduced at 80%
Adult bag:
14" x 28" gray felt, for bag body
Four 3½" x 33" pieces brick red felt, for sides/strap
Tomato red felt: 14" square (for bag flap); 7" x 6" (for back exterior pocket); 2" x 5½" (for interior pocket); 4" square (for interior pocket); two 2¾" x 4" pieces (for side pockets)
Embroidery floss in aqua blue
1¾" button
Stitches Used
Satin Stitch, Straight Stitch, Whipstitch, Double Running Stitch. Instructions for these stitches can be found on pages 14–15.
Alternate Templates
For the Kid’s Bag, this project can also be made with the Elephant template (page 119) or Giraffe template (page 117), reproduced at 80%, or the Dog template (page 118) or Snail template (page 118), reproduced at 100%.
Kid’s Messenger Bag
1. Cut Appliqué Pieces
With paper scissors, cut out the rabbit head/arms and overalls from the Rabbit Patch template, and the shoe from the Elephant template. Pin the paper patterns to the felt pieces as designated in Materials and cut out the shapes with fabric shears. You will need to cut 2 shoes.
2. Assemble Appliqué Design
Assemble the appliqué pieces on one of the 4½" x 5" pieces of yellow felt, laying down the head/arms first, then the dress. (Note that the ears will hang over the top edge of the yellow felt.) Bring the left arm up and over the dress, and tuck the shoes underneath the dress. Once you are happy with the layout, temporarily secure the pieces with glue stick and glue the assembled rabbit to the background.
You may wish to freehand stitch the eyes, nose, and mouth using your own ideas or using the template as a guide (see page 19 for tips). Alternatively, lay the paper template onto the felt, pin it in place, and stitch through the paper (see page 18 for more on this technique).
Using the colors designated in Materials, satin stitch the eyes and nose with 3-ply embroidery floss. Stitch the mouth with single-ply floss and single straight stitches. Use double running stitch and single-ply grass green floss for the stripes in the dress. Whipstitch the shoes, head, and arms using single-ply floss in the colors designated. Tie off all loose threads on the back side of the patch.
3. Assemble Bag and Straps
Lay out the lavender felt; measure 12" from one short end and mark this measurement with safety pins on both sides. This 12" will serve as the bag’s flap.
Arrange 2 pieces of mint green felt one on top of the other and safety pin them together to make a double-layer strap. Repeat with the remaining 2 pieces of mint green felt. Starting at the 12" marked measurement, place a double-layer green side/strap piece along each side of the lavender felt (see drawing). Safety pin 8½" of lavender felt and side/strap together. Then fold the lavender felt and safety pin it to the 3½" bottom of the side/strap. Fold the lavender felt over and safety pin it for 8½" along the opposite side of the green felt (see drawing). Repeat the same process on the other side of the lavender felt using the remaining double-layer piece of mint green felt. You have now assembled the body of the bag.
Leave the flap loose so that it can hang over the front of the bag; it should fall about ½" shy of the bottom edge (this may require trimming once you have assembled and sewn the bag).
4. Sew Bag and Straps
Using 3-ply rose embroidery floss, knot off on the top inside front of the bag (not the flap). Sandwich the knot between the double-layer strap and the bag body and whipstitch 3 times close together. Straight stitch along the front of the bag down to the base, attaching the side/strap. Whipstitch twice at the side base of the bag, whipstitch twice on the bottom of the bag, then straight stitch across the bottom of the bag, whipstitch twice at the bottom and twice at the side base, then continue in straight stitch up the back of the bag. Whipstitch 3 times at the top back corner, where the flap will begin. Continue straight stitching along the edge of the strap and straight stitch down the other side of strap to the top inside front of the bag, where you began (see drawing for more detail). Knot off securely on the inside of the bag.
Repeat the same process on the opposite side of the bag.
Straight stitch along the 3 loose sides of the flap (not the fold line), knotting off inside the bag. Then straight stitch along the top front side of the bag (beneath the flap), again knotting off inside.
Overlap the ends of the straps and pin in place at the desired length. Straight stitch around the perimeter of the overlap (see drawing).
5. Attach Velcro and Pockets
Velcro
Safety pin the loop side of the piece of Velcro in place on the back side of the flap, 2½" from the bottom edge. With 3-ply purple floss, straight stitch around the perimeter of the Velcro. Close the flap to determine proper placement for the other half of the Velcro on the bag body, and attach it as for the first piece.
Front Pocket
Safety pin the appliquéd pocket in the center of the front flap, 1¼" from the bottom edge, making sure to cover the stitch line created when you attached the Velcro. Starting at the upper left corner of the pocket and using 3-ply rose floss, knot off on the back side and sew 2 horizontal stitches to secure the pocket edge. Straight stitch down the left side of the pocket, across the bottom, and up the right side, and sew 2 horizontal stitches at the top right corner to secure it. Straight stitch across the open edge of the pocket, sewing through that layer of felt only and carrying the thread behind the rabbit ears, and knot off on the wrong side. Switch to 3-ply purple floss and sew along the same path, alternating stitches to create a 2-color double running stitch.
Inside and Back Pockets
Safety pin the smaller pocket to the inside center back of the bag (see drawing) and stitch it in place with 3-ply rose floss and straight stitch, just as you did for the front pocket (but omitting the 2-color double running stitch).
Safety pin the larger pocket on the outside center back of the bag (see drawing), concealing the stitch line from the interior pocket, and stitch it in place as for the smaller interior pocket.
Adult Messenger Bag
1. Assemble Bag and Straps
Arrange 2 of the brick red side/strap pieces one on top of the other to make a double-layer strap. Repeat with the remaining 2 pieces of brick red felt.
Lay out the gray felt; measure 12¼" from one short end and mark this measurement with safety pins on both sides.
Place one end of a double-layer side/strap at one of the marked points. Safety pin the brick red and gray felt pieces together along the 12¼" edges. Pin the second side/strap on the other side edge in the same way.
Working one side at a time, fold the unpinned gray felt around the brick red felt, securing it with safety pins first to the 3½" bottom edge of the strap, then up along 12¼" of the other side of the strap (see drawing). Repeat the same process on the other side using the remaining double-layer strap. You have now formed the body of the bag.
Secure the tomato red felt square to one open side of the gray felt with safety pins to create a flap. (The tomato red felt should overlap the gray felt on the outside of the bag.)
2. Sew Bag and Straps
Using 3-ply floss, knot off on the top inside front of the bag (where the flap and gray bag body meet). Sandwich the knot between the strap and bag body and whipstitch 3 times close together. Straight stitch across the flap to the other edge. Sew 3 whipstitches close together and knot off on the interior of the bag. The flap should hang over the front of the bag, about ½" shy of the bottom edge (this may require trimming once you have assembled and sewn the bag).
Sew the bag and sides/strap together as in Step 4 of the Kid’s Messenger Bag on page 105. If you would like to make your strap longer, use a third piece of double-layer strap fabric to bridge the two side/straps together.
3. Attach Pockets and Button
Interior Pockets
Safety pin the 2" x 5½" and 4" square pieces of tomato red felt inside the bag on the center back. Keep in mind that both pockets must fit within the area that will be covered by the 7" x 6" exterior back pocket (see drawing). Starting at the upper left corner of one pocket and using 3-ply floss, knot off on the inside of the pocket and sew 2 horizontal stitches to secure the edge. Straight stitch down the left side of the pocket, across the bottom, and up the right side, then sew 2 horizontal stitches at the top right corner to secure it. Straight stitch across the open edge of the pocket, sewing through that layer of felt only, and knot off on the wrong side. Repeat for the second interior pocket.
Strap Pockets
Center the small pockets on each strap, one 5½" from the bag base, and the other ¾" from the bag base (see drawing). Safety pin and sew them in place as for the interior pockets.
Back Exterior Pocket
Safety pin the 7" x 6" tomato red felt on the bag back, covering the stitch line visible from sewing the interior pockets (see drawing). Sew the pocket in place as for the interior pockets.
Button
Close the flap over the bag body and mark a spot 3½" from the bottom edge of the flap and centered along the width. Mark the same spot on the bag front beneath the flap, and attach the button to this spot with 3-ply floss. With the tip of fabric shears, carefully cut a vertical slit at the marked location in the flap for the buttonhole. Make the hole roughly ¼" smaller than the diameter of the button because the felt stretches.
At the end of a long day of stitching, I always wrap up my tools—rulers, scissors, glue stick, thread, and needles—in my tool pocket. When I reopen the pocket the next morning, everything is there as I left it, ready for a new day of stitching. I fill my tool pocket with just what I need, relegating any extra items and doodads to more permanent, less portable locales.
Finished Dimensions
13¼" x 5"
Materials
Red tool pocket:
13¼" x 14" red felt, for case
Oatmeal felt: Two ½" x 36" pieces (for straps) and 3" x 4½" (for needle holder)
Rose felt: 5½" x ½" (for needle holder strap) and 2" x 2½" (for inner pin holder)
Embroidery floss in red (for case construction) and white (for attaching straps and needle holder)
Gold tool pocket:
13¼" x 14" gold felt, for case
Rose felt: Two ½" x 36" pieces (for straps) and 3" x 4½" (for needle holder)
Mint green felt: 5½" x ½" (for needle holder strap) and 2" x 2½" (for inner pin holder)
Embroidery floss in grass green (for case construction) and brick red (for attaching straps and needle holder)
Stitches Used
Whipstitch, Straight Stitch.Instructions for these stitches can be found on pages 14–15.
1. Fold and Sew Case
Following the drawing on page 112, fold the case felt to make a 5"-deep pocket (the folded piece of felt will measure 13¼" x 9") and pin the sides together. Using 3-ply embroidery floss, tie a knot on the inside bottom edge of one folded side. Whipstitch to close the edge, using stitches no more than ¼" apart. Knot off on the inside at the top edge of the pocket. Repeat on the other side.
With single-ply floss, tie a knot on the inside edge at the top of the pocket (at the end of a line of whipstitches). Straight stitch across the open edge of the pocket, being careful to sew through that layer of felt only. Continue stitching around the perimeter of the flap and knot off on the inside when you reach the other top edge of the case.
2. Attach Straps
With the flap closed, pin the straps onto the outside of the flap 3" from each side, allowing 1" of each strap to overlap the flap edge (see photograph opposite).
Using 6-ply floss, tie a knot on the wrong side of the flap under one strap and sew 5 straight stitches one on top of the other, parallel to the base of the case, to affix the full 1" of strap to the case felt. Knot off on the wrong side of the flap. Repeat for the other strap.
3. Create and Attach Needle Holder
Fold the needle holder felt in half, sandwiching the small piece of felt in between (creating a book cover with one page). Pin the felt pieces in place and, using 6-ply floss, tie a knot at one corner inside the book and hide the loose end. Straight stitch along the fold to form a “spine,” removing pins as you sew. At the other edge, attach the book to the needle holder strap using 2 straight stitches. Knot off as you did the other knot. Sew 3 straight stitches, attaching the loose end of the needle holder strap to the inner upper right corner of the tool pocket. Knot off on the inside of the pocket.
To tie the straps around the closed tool pocket, see the photograph on page 110 and the drawing at left.
