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AUTOSTRADA—PICNIC LUNCH

THE ITALIAN ROADWAY REST STOPS OFFER WARM PRESSED SANDWICHES and tidy little bites that inspire these take-along snacks. Along with the umbrella, iced drinks, and sunglasses, eating alfresco is one of the great joys of the summer season. The food is light, tasty, and, most of all, portable. A small folding table becomes an impromptu buffet when draped with a picnic blanket or throw. The already grilled sliced steak panini hold up well during transit. Pack bruschetta toppings and toasts separately, assembling them just before serving for the best-looking picnic buffet. Add cloth napkins, wine, real wineglasses, and music, and your picnic will be complete.

POTATOES WITH ’INO PESTO AND GREEN BEANS

TIME FOR AN AMARO

BRUSCHETTA OF SUMMER SQUASH WITH RED PEPPER AND MINT

SLICED FLANK STEAK PANINI

BRUSCHETTA OF CELERY, ARUGULA, AND TOASTED ALMONDS

CHERRY TOMATOES AND BUFFALO MOZZARELLA SALAD

TWO-BEAN SALAD

EASY ALMOND CAKE

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POTATOES WITH ’INO PESTO AND GREEN BEANS

Fresh produce always matters, but never more so than in a salad like this. With so few ingredients in this classic dish, each should be the best available. ’Ino Pesto (which also appears in Simple Italian Sandwiches) owes its success to a little softened butter added at the end. It’s a staple to keep on hand for sandwiches, pastas, bruschetta toppings, and even as a dip for vegetables.

Sea salt

12 ounces green beans, trimmed and cut in half

3 pounds small new potatoes

1 cup ’Ino Pesto (recipe follows)

Freshly ground black pepper

½ lemon

SERVES 4 TO 6

  1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil, adding about 1 tablespoon salt to it. Add the green beans and cook for 4 minutes, or until they are tender but still bright and lively. As they finish, transfer the beans to a colander and rinse under cold water.
  2. Add the potatoes to the same pot of boiling water and cook until they are easily pierced with the tip of a knife, 10 to 15 minutes. Drain in a colander and let cool slightly.
  3. Combine the beans and the potatoes in a serving bowl. Add the pesto and toss gently to coat the vegetables. Season with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste.
  4. Squeeze the lemon half over the salad just before serving.

’INO PESTO

¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil, or more as needed

¼ cup walnuts

2 tablespoons pine nuts

½ garlic clove

¼ teaspoon salt

2 cups tightly packed fresh basil leaves

½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

1 tablespoon butter, softened

  1. In a blender or a food processor, combine the olive oil, walnuts, pine nuts, garlic, and salt. Pulse or blend until smooth. Add the basil in small handfuls, pulsing to combine. When all of the basil has been incorporated, transfer the mixture to a bowl and add the Parmigiano-Reggiano and softened butter, mixing well to combine. The olive oil should form a 1-inch layer above the pesto when it settles. If this is not the case, add more olive oil as necessary.
  2. Store, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Let come to room temperature before using.

TIME FOR AN AMARO

An amaro, meaning “bitter,” is an after-dinner digestive. There are many types of amari made from different herbs and flowers. They are made by monks and families all over Italy, with each region producing a variation on the theme. Whether tasting of anise, citrus, menthol, or mint, this little drink is a world of infinite variations. The right time for an amaro is when you’ve had far too much to eat but plan on having a little bit more. The sweet and bitter taste revives the appetite and, most important, relaxes the stomach. It’s something of a miracle.

 

Restaurants are the best places to sample the many different flavored amari. A small tumbler with an ounce or two is the way to drink it. A bottle bought for the home will be on hand for quite a while.

BRUSCHETTA OF SUMMER SQUASH WITH RED PEPPER AND MINT

This is one of the most popular snacks served at my restaurants. When entertaining, I start things off with a cocktail and then I put out a platter of these bright summer bruschetta. The ricotta binds the flavors together for a refreshing little bite—cool and easy. Grill the squash on a panini grill, under the broiler, or on an outdoor barbecue.

2 medium yellow summer squash

2 medium zucchini

3 tablespoons olive oil

1½ cups fresh ricotta

6 fresh mint leaves, cut into thin ribbons

Red pepper flakes

Sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

8 baguette slices, cut ½ inch thick on the diagonal, toasted

¼ cup grated Pecorino Romano

SERVES 4

  1. Preheat a panini grill.
  2. Cut off the stem end of each squash and zucchini. Slice the squash and zucchini lengthwise into ¼-inch-thick strips.
  3. Lay the squash and zucchini, flesh side down, on the panini grill. Close the top and grill the squash and zucchini for 5 minutes, or until the flesh appears charred. Transfer the squash and zucchini to a cutting board and roughly chop into ½-to ¾-inch slices. Transfer the slices to a mixing bowl and add the olive oil, fresh ricotta, and mint leaves. Season with the red pepper flakes, sea salt, and freshly ground black pepper. Toss gently to combine.
  4. Divide the squash and zucchini mixture among the toasts, and top each bruschetta with a sprinkling of grated Pecorino Romano.

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SLICED FLANK STEAK PANINI

Think of this as an upmarket “cheese steak” with tangy goat cheese and sweet carmelized onions. Well-loved and delicious, this panino is on the most-requested list among friends, families, and customers.

8 ounces fresh goat cheese, preferably Coach Farm

1 tablespoon roughly chopped fresh mint leaves

1 tablespoon roughly chopped fresh basil leaves

1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves

1½ pounds flank steak

Salt

Pepper

2 Vidalia onions, cut into ½-inch-thick slices

1/3 cup balsamic vinegar

8 slices rustic peasant bread, cut ½ inch thick

MAKES 4 PANINI

  1. Using a fork, combine the goat cheese with the mint, basil, and thyme until well blended and smooth. Set aside.
  2. Season the steak on both sides with salt and pepper.
  3. Heat a sauté pan, preferably cast iron, over a medium-high flame. When the pan is very hot, place the steak in the pan and cook, undisturbed, for 3 minutes on each side, until seared. Transfer the steak to a plate.
  4. Add the onions to the sauté pan, and sauté in the rendered beef fat until they are coated, about 1 minute. Season with ¼ teaspoon salt, and then add the vinegar. Cook over a medium flame, stirring occasionally, until the onions are soft and burnished, about 20 minutes. Transfer to a bowl.
  5. Preheat a panini grill to its highest setting.
  6. Thinly slice the steak, starting at the narrow end.
  7. Spread a thin coating of the goat cheese mixture over each piece of bread. Lay the steak slices in a single layer over half of the bread slices, followed by a few onion slices. Top with the remaining slices of bread.
  8. Grill the sandwiches until the bread is well browned and the interior is heated through, about 4 minutes. Cut each sandwich in half before serving.

BRUSCHETTA OF CELERY, ARUGULA, AND TOASTED ALMONDS

This bruschetta always looks a little humble at the table, but a platter of them will disappear almost immediately. Crisp, cool, and slightly salty, it’s a surprising combination and the best possible use for your underappreciated celery.

2/3 cup whole blanched almonds

1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil

2 cups arugula leaves, loosely packed

3 stalks celery, sliced ½ inch thick on the diagonal

¼ cup ’Ino Mayonnaise

Juice of 1 lemon

Sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

8 baguette slices, cut ½ inch thick on the diagonal, toasted

SERVES 4

  1. Place a dry pan over a medium flame, add the almonds, and shake the pan frequently until they are toasted, 2 minutes. They should take on light color, give off oil, and become very aromatic. Transfer the almonds to a medium mixing bowl, and when they are cool enough to handle, roughly chop them. Set them aside.
  2. Add the olive oil to the same pan and heat it over a medium flame until warm. Add the arugula and toss until it wilts, 2 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and add the almonds, sliced celery, mayonnaise, and lemon juice. Season with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, and then fold the ingredients to thoroughly combine. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 4 hours.
  3. Top each toast with approximately 1 tablespoon of the celery mixture, and arrange the bruschetta on a serving platter.

CHERRY TOMATOES AND BUFFALO MOZZARELLA SALAD

This is a variation on the classic Caprese salad using vine-ripened yellow and red cherry tomatoes, which should be bursting with flavor. The traditional basil is mixed with arugula for added depth. This is the time for the best-quality mozzarella that you can find. Mozzarella di bufala, with its tangy taste and creamy texture, would be choice.

FOR THE VINAIGRETTE

¼ cup balsamic vinegar

½ cup plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon club soda

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

FOR THE SALAD

1 cup vine-ripened red cherry tomatoes

1 cup vine-ripened yellow cherry tomatoes

1 cup arugula leaves, loosely packed

½ cup fresh basil leaves

2 balls of fresh buffalo mozzarella (about 6 ounces each), drained, cut into 2-inch chunks

Sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

SERVES 4

  1. Whisk all the vinaigrette ingredients together.
  2. Place the tomatoes, arugula, and fresh basil in a bowl. Toss to combine.
  3. Dress the salad with the vinaigrette, and toss again. Divide the salad among four shallow bowls (or place on a serving platter) and then garnish with the fresh mozzarella. Sprinkle with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper.

TWO-BEAN SALAD

This salad is beautiful on a dinner table, colorful when served as part of antipasti, and, yes, it can also be spooned onto toasts as a vibrant bruschetta. This is as versatile as it gets, using indispensable canned beans. And it’s good for you, too.

One 16-ounce can white beans, drained and rinsed

One 16-ounce can chickpeas, drained and rinsed

½ red onion, cut into small dice (½ cup)

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon sherry vinegar

2 tablespoons orange juice

2 tablespoons tomato sauce

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ head of radicchio, cut into thin strips

½ cup thinly sliced red-leaf lettuce (cut into thin strips)

¼ cup fresh basil leaves, chopped

1 tablespoon flat-leaf parsley leaves, chopped

SERVES 4 TO 6

  1. About 3 hours before serving, place the white beans, chickpeas, diced onion, olive oil, sherry vinegar, orange juice, tomato sauce, salt, and pepper in a mixing bowl. Toss well to combine, and then set aside at room temperature so that the flavors can permeate the beans.
  2. Combine the radicchio, red-leaf lettuce, basil, and parsley in a serving bowl. Add the bean mixture just before serving, and toss to combine.

EASY ALMOND CAKE

In the same way that bread or polenta is your starting point with bruschetta, this simple cake can be dressed in a variety of ways. Sour cherries are a traditional and elegant topping (and specialty stores sell great imported sour cherries in jars). But a scoop of vanilla ice cream and a smattering of toasted sliced almonds do nicely as well. For the sake of simplicity, you can’t go wrong with a light dusting of confectioners’ sugar and a double espresso. This makes two cakes, one of which can be wrapped and refrigerated for up to 1 week, or frozen for up to 1 month.

1 cup (2 sticks) butter, softened, plus additional for buttering the pans

2 cups all-purpose flour, sifted, plus additional for flouring the pans

½ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon baking soda

1½ cups granulated sugar

7 ounces almond paste

4 egg yolks, at room temperature

1 cup sour cream

1 teaspoon almond extract

Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting the cakes

MAKES TWO 8-INCH CAKES, 6 TO 8 SERVINGS EACH

  1. Preheat the oven to 325°F.
  2. Butter and flour two 8-inch springform pans. Line each with a parchment paper round, and butter the paper.
  3. Sift the flour, salt, and baking soda together into a bowl.
  4. In a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the butter and the granulated sugar at medium-high speed until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes. Lower the speed to medium. Break the almond paste into small pieces and add them, a few at a time, beating until smooth, about 8 minutes. Add the egg yolks, one at a time, and then the sour cream and the almond extract.
  5. Reduce the mixer speed to low and add the flour mixture in three additions. Mix until just blended.
  6. Divide the batter between the prepared pans. Bake for 1¼ hours, until the tops are golden brown, the sides have shrunk away from the sides of the pans, and a cake tester comes out clean when inserted into the center of the cake. Cool the pans on wire racks for 15 minutes before removing the sides of the pans.
  7. Sift confectioners’ sugar on top of the cakes just before serving.