Each pattern in this book lists the specific yarn used as well as the classification of the yarn weight, which is directly related to the yarn’s thickness. If you choose another type of yarn, I would encourage you to stay within that numbered weight in order for your project to remain consistent. However, even within each weight category, you will find a subtle variation in yarn thickness. In other words, not all DK weight yarns are exactly the same, nor are all worsted weight yarns the same, either. Depending on the content of the yarn (wool, acrylic, cotton, blends, etc.), it will behave differently. Your best bet is to make a small swatch before beginning your project and evaluate whether that particular yarn would be a good substitute.
Don’t be afraid of these symbols. They are your friends! As mentioned earlier in the book, once you have become familiar with the most basic crochet stitches (chain, single crochet, double crochet, treble crochet and slip stitch), you should be able to attempt most of the projects up through the intermediate level. If you are an intermediate crocheter, don’t be afraid of the experienced symbols. Consider these an opportunity to grow and add a new skill or two to your crochet repertoire.
Beginner
Easy
Intermediate
Experienced
If you’ve crocheted for long, you’ve probably experienced your work growing or shrinking in places when you don’t want it to. Once you‘re past the beginning stage of your crochet career, you will understand how to fix this problem: place only one stitch in each stitch. If you skip the first stitch of the row, then put the last stitch in the turning chain. If you do this consistently, your crochet piece won’t grow or shrink. If only dieting were as easy!
If you follow the Craft Yarn Council of America’s excellent recommendations (skipping the first stitch in double crochet rows and making a double crochet in the turning chain), you will maintain an even stitch count and straight sides. However, you will also have a slightly larger hole where the chain 3 is located. Since many of my designs are anything but straight double or treble crochet, I’ve taken some liberties to rid most of my designs of these dreaded holes. This is why I choose to use a chain 2 for double crochet turning chains, and chain 3 for treble crochets. These are not misprints! I also begin crocheting in the first stitch of the row and only crochet into the turning chain when specifically directed to do so by the pattern. Consider it use of my artistic license. I apologize if this small adjustment rocks the boat too much for any seasoned crocheters. If you complete a pattern or two, you’ll understand. I may even win you over to my side of the Great Turning Chain Debate!