alt alternate
approx approximately
beg begin(ning)
cm centimetres
cont continue
foll(s) follow(s)(ing)
g grams
icos including cast (bound) off stitch. After casting (binding) off the stated number of stitches, one stitch remains on the righthand needle. This stitch is included in the number of the following group of stitches.
in inches
inc work into front and back of next stitch to increase by one stitch
k knit
k2(3)tog knit next two (three) stitches together
oz ounces
p purl
p2(3)tog purl next two (three) stitches together
rem remain(ing)
rep repeat
rev reverse
RS right side
st(s) stitch(es)
st st stocking (stockinette) stitch
w&t wrap and turn. See Wrap and Turn Method, right.
WS wrong side
[ ] work instructions within square brackets as directed
* work instructions after asterisk(s) as directed
There are two main techniques for working with more than one colour in the same row of knitting: the intarsia technique and the Fair Isle technique.
This method is used when knitting individual, large blocks of colour. It is best to use a small ball (or long length) for each area of colour, otherwise the yarns will easily become tangled. When changing to a new colour, twist the yarns on the wrong side of the work to prevent holes forming. When starting a new row, turn the knitting so that the yarns that are hanging from it untwist as much as possible. If you have several colours you may occasionally have to reorganize the yarns at the back of the knitting. Your work may look messy, but once the ends are all sewn in it will look fine.
If there are no more than four stitches between colours you can use the Fair Isle technique. Begin knitting with the first colour, then drop this when you introduce the second colour. When you come to the first colour again, take it under the second colour to twist the yarns. When you come to the second colour again, take it over the first colour. The secret is not to pull the strands on the wrong side of the work too tightly or the work will pucker.
With double-pointed needles, *knit a row. Slide the stitches to the other end of the needle. Do not turn the knitting. Repeat from *, pulling the yarn tight on the first stitch so that the knitting forms a tube.
Knit the number of stitches in the first short row. Slip the next stitch purlwise from the left-hand to the right-hand needle. Bring the yarn forward then slip the stitch back onto the left-hand needle. Return the yarn to the back. On a purl row use the same method, taking the yarn back then forward.
This is worked by wrapping the stitch as for Wrap and Turn (above), but the number of stitches worked is decreased by one for as many rows as given in the pattern, then increased to the original number of stitches.
Bobbles are used to make teats on the cow’s udders. Work a 3-stitch bobble as follows: knit into the front and back of the stitch once, then knit into the front again, turn. Working on these 3 stitches and beginning with a purl row, work 4 rows st st. Using the left-hand needle, lift the second and third stitches in turn over the first stitch and off the needle. Continue knitting to the position of the next bobble.
On a knit row, knit one stitch as normal, but leave the stitch on the left-hand needle. Bring the yarn from the back to the front between the two needles. Loop the yarn around the fingers of your left hand; the number of fingers needed is specified in each pattern. Take the yarn back between the two needles to the back of the work. Knit the stitch from the left-hand needle as normal. You now have two stitches on the right-hand needle and a loop between them. Pass the first stitch over the second stitch to trap the loop, which is now secure. The end of the loop can be cut when finishing the animal.
As a guide, a 2-finger loop should be about 3–4cm (1¼–1½in) long and a 3-finger loop 6cm (2½in).
Use this method for adding tassels to manes and tails. Cut the required lengths of yarn and fold in half, as specified in the pattern. Slip a crochet hook through a knitted stitch, hook the folded end of yarn through the stitch, slip the ends through the loop and pull the yarn tightly. Once all fringing has been done, trim to the required length.
Cut a length of pipecleaner 1.5cm (½in) longer than the Leg and Spur and wrap the knitting around it, leaving 1.5cm (½in) of pipecleaner protruding to attach to the bird’s body. Sew up using whip stitch. Cut a length of pipecleaner to fit the Outer Claws and another to fit the Middle Claw, and sew up knitting around them as before.
Bend bottom 1.5cm (½in) of leg to form spur. Bend Outer Claws in the middle at a 45-degree angle and attach with whip stitch to where leg bends to form spur. Sew cast (bound) off row of Middle Claw to centre of bend in Outer Claws.
Measure along pipecleaner the length of the bird’s leg plus 1.5cm (½in) for attaching the leg to the body. Bend at a right angle to form the joint between leg and foot.
Working with the long end of the pipecleaner, measure 1.5cm (½in) along it and then fold it back on itself and twist it around the bottom of the leg to form the first front claw. Make the second front claw in the same way, fully twisting the folded-back pipecleaner around the bottom of the leg. Repeat to make the back claw to form a tripod-shaped foot. Twist the excess pipecleaner up the leg to secure and cut off any surplus.
Wrap the shorter piece of knitting around the back and second claws and sew up using whip stitch. Sew up the longer piece of knitting around the leg and first front claw.
This method is used for very thin legs and for claws: if possible, use coloured pipecleaners and try to match the colour of the wrapping yarn. Leaving a 5cm (2in) tail of free yarn, tightly wrap the yarn around the pipecleaner, making sure no pipecleaner chenille pokes through. Continue wrapping down the pipecleaner to as close to the tip as possible, then wrap the yarn back up to the top of the pipecleaner. Knot the two ends and slip them into the body. If there is a little bit of white pipecleaner chenille showing, colour it in with a matching felt-tip pen. A little dab of clear glue will stop the wrapping from slipping off the end of the pipecleaner.