day trip 01

north cost

image wild waters & wooden boardwalks: long beach peninsula, wa

long beach peninsula, wa

The title of this book is Day Trips to the Oregon Coast, and yet our first chapter is a location in Washington State. The 28-mile Long Beach Peninsula juts out of Washington’s southwest corner, just north across the bridge from Astoria, Oregon. Long, narrow, and picturesque, the peninsula is bounded on the west by the Pacific Ocean, the south by the Columbia River, and the east by Willapa Bay. The peninsula is most definitely in Washington State, but in terms of geography, accessibility, and aesthetics, it’s akin to the beaches and beach towns of Oregon, and has long been thought of by many locals as an extension of such.

On the Pacific Ocean side, a sandy beach stretches continuously for 28 miles. This wide strip of beach is great for kite flying, walking, clam digging, sandcastle building, and more, but not so great for swimming. The water is cold and dangerous. In fact, the confluence of the Columbia River and the Pacific Ocean, just south of the peninsula, is some of the most dangerous water on the West Coast.

Many small communities dot the Long Beach Peninsula, each a bit different. Downtown Long Beach offers the most festive atmosphere, with kite, candy, ice cream, and T-shirt shops, and a wonderful kite festival in August. Oysterville is known for its historic homes; Ilwaco for the Port of Ilwaco, the comings and goings of a working marina, and a summertime Saturday Market. Only Ilwaco and Long Beach are incorporated, and the residents of the peninsula think of themselves as one community, called the Long Beach Peninsula. The

north coast day trip 01

principal industry is tourism, though fishing, crabbing, oyster farming, and cranberry farming are also important components of the local economy.

From spring break through mid-October, the peninsula is hopping with visitors, festivals, and activity. The rest of the year, it’s awfully quiet. Winter can still be a great time to visit, especially if you are interested in clam digging or want to get a glimpse of some of the epic winter storms that strike the Cape Disappointment headlands from the Pacific.

getting there

From Portland: Take US 26 W / OR 26 W out of Portland and continue 74 miles to the coast. At the US 101 junction, go north for 36 miles, crossing the Astoria-Megler Bridge into Washington State. US 101 will turn into WA 103 / Pacific Avenue S, which traverses the entire Long Beach Peninsula.

where to go

Cape Disappointment State Park. South end of peninsula, south of Ilwaco off WA 100. Cape Disappointment State Park is the most visited park in the Washington State Parks system. Here you can walk a sandy beach, explore bunkers of an old military fort, wander through coastal forests, have a picnic, camp, take in spectacular vistas, and visit a beach called Dead Man’s Cove. The park has an old-growth forest, lakes, freshwater and saltwater marshes, streams, ocean tidelands, lots of watchable wildlife, and a working Coast Guard station that specializes in search-and-rescue training. “Cape D” encompasses 1,882 acres and is fronted by both the Pacific Ocean and Baker Bay. The park is open year-round for camping and day use, 6:30 a.m. to dusk.

Within its boundaries are these highlights:

Cape Disappointment Lighthouse. On the southeast tip of the peninsula, off WA 100. Pretty, but not open to the public. Take the easy walk from the interpretive center to the site and enjoy Cape Disappointment Lighthouse from the outside, knowing that it’s the oldest operating lighthouse on the West Coast.

Columbia Pacific Heritage Museum. 115 SE Lake St., Ilwaco; (360) 642-3446; columbiapacificheritagemuseum.org. Explore the history of the region where the Columbia River meets the Pacific Ocean. Artifacts, images, and stories interpret the Chinook Indians, European explorers, 19th-century pioneers, fishermen, cranberry growers, loggers, and summer people who have made the Long Beach Peninsula what it is today. Open 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tues through Sat. Free admission for children ages 12 and under.

Discovery Trail. North end access is off 26th St. NW in Long Beach; south end access is off the corner of Elizabeth Avenue and Waterfront Way in Ilwaco. The Discovery Trail was created to commemorate the Lewis and Clark Expedition and parallels Capt. William Clark’s hike to the Pacific Ocean in November 1805. Stretching 8.3 miles between Long Beach and Ilwaco, the trail is closed to motor vehicles and horses and offers peaceful, scenic passage to pedestrians and cyclists. Interpretive markers and several bronze statues can be found on the route. The trail is relatively easy and flat from the northern terminus to Beard’s Hollow. It gets more challenging at that point, rising in elevation as much as 300 feet between Beard’s Hollow and the southern terminus at the Port of Ilwaco. A spur trail takes you to North Head Lighthouse.

Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center. Cape Disappointment State Park, off WA 100 on the south end of the peninsula; (360) 642-3029. Perched on a cliff 200 feet above the mouth of the Columbia River, the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center tells the story of the journey of the Corps of Discovery, focusing particularly on their Pacific Coast stay. Exhibits featuring Lewis’s journal entries bring home the arduous journey Lewis, Clark, and their crew made, ending with the stories of what happened to each member after their return home. During winter and spring, volunteers help visitors spot migrating gray whales; year-round, views of the Columbia Bar are truly spectacular from this vantage point on the tip of the cape. Open year-round from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily.

North Head Lighthouse. North Head Lighthouse Road, off WA 100 in Ilwaco; (360) 642-3078. The 65-foot North Head Lighthouse was completed in 1898. Tours include history and gorgeous panoramic views of the peninsula and Pacific Ocean. Incidentally, North Head is the windiest lighthouse area on the West Coast and the second windiest in the nation. Winds of 120 miles per hour have been recorded at the site. The lighthouse grounds are open year-round, dawn until dusk, at no charge on foot; those driving will need a Washington State Parks Discover Pass to park in all parts of Cape Disappointment State Park. Call for tour hours, which change seasonally.

Waikiki Beach. On the southern end of the peninsula off WA 100. Waikiki Beach is considered the only swim-safe beach on the peninsula. Still, whether or not you actually want to venture into the water will depend on your fortitude and/or the air temperature—the water here isn’t exactly as warm as the other Waikiki, in Hawaii. During the summer, concerts are held near the beach on Sat nights at 7 p.m.

Green Angel Gardens Farm Store. 6807 Sandridge Rd., Long Beach; (360) 642-4018; greenangelgardening.com. Stocked with organic greens grown on-site, local fresh eggs, and a variety of certified organic produce obtained from regional growers. The Green Angel Farm promotes education and is family-friendly, encouraging kids and adults to come and learn how quality food is grown. Open daily 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

image water rescue school
On the southern tip of the Long Beach Peninsula is the National Motor Lifeboat School, run by the US Coast Guard. The location is no accident—the waters off the peninsula are considered some of the most treacherous in the world and make for ideal training ground for wild and woolly ocean rescues. Known as the Graveyard of the Pacific, the stretch of water where the Pacific Ocean meets the Columbia River has claimed more than 2,000 ships since the late 1700s. Students come to the Lifeboat School from all over the United States, Mexico, and Canada to learn how to perform in some of the harshest maritime conditions on the planet. The school is at the Coast Guard station en route to the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center—peer through the chain-link fence or from the overlook at the interpretive center to see the students in action on the grounds and in the water.

Knappton Cove Heritage Center. Right on WA 401 northeast of the Astoria-Megler Bridge; (503) 738-5206; knapptoncoveheritagecenter.org. Everything that happened at New York’s famous Ellis Island happened at other US ports during the waves of immigration in the 1800s and early 1900s, only on a smaller scale. In Astoria, boats from overseas anchored and were boarded by an inspector. If fumigation for infestation and disease was deemed necessary, the boats were sent here, across the Columbia River to the US Columbia River Quarantine Station, the only point for federal quarantine on the West Coast north of San Francisco. Today it’s a National Historic Site, set on preserving the history of this unique location and the role of the US Public Health Service. Hours are “most summer weekends” or by appointment.

Long Beach Boardwalk. Access at Bolstad Avenue and Sid Snyder Drive in Long Beach. The Today Show named the Long Beach Boardwalk one of the top five in the nation, calling it the “most unique.” That’s because, unlike many US boardwalks, the half-mile boardwalk in Long Beach isn’t lined with hot dog stands and sunglasses vendors, but instead surrounded by grassy dunes and wide-open vistas. Interpretive exhibits dot the route, and spectacular views of the ocean, beach, and North Head Lighthouse make this a must-walk. The board-walk makes for a great place to watch the Fourth of July fireworks show or the summertime Kite Festival each summer.

North Jetty Brewing. 4200 Pacific Way, Seaview; (360) 642-4234; northjettybrew.com. This sweet little taproom opened in April 2014 and immediately became a community gathering place and tourist must-stop. The on-site 10-barrel brewhouse produces a wide array of beers, distributed by 18 taps. Try the Cape D IPA or the Yellow Boots Kolsch. No food, except for all the shelled peanuts you can eat. Open Sun and Mon noon to 7 p.m., Wed and Thurs noon to 9 p.m., Fri and Sat noon to 10 p.m.

Pacific Coast Cranberry Research Foundation Museum and Gift Shop. 2907 Pioneer Rd., Long Beach; (360) 642-5553; cranberrymuseum.com. Cranberry farming in the southwest corner of Washington State has a more than 100-year history and remains an important part of the local economy. This 1,200-square-foot facility next to a 10-acre demonstration cranberry farm interprets the history and cultivation of this garnet-colored berry and offers a self-guided walking tour of cranberry bogs year-round. September is the most spectacular month, when the berries are ripening. Open daily 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Apr through Dec.

Painted Lady Lavender Farm. 1664 US 101, Ilwaco; (360) 642-3531. This charming 2-acre farm grows lavender and also includes a chicken coop, rabbits, and a guest cabin. Open daily until dusk. Call for guided tours of the plantings of lavender and other organic herbs.

where to eat

Bailey’s Bakery & Cafe. 26910 Sandridge Rd., Nahcotta; (360) 665-4449; baileysbakerycafe.com. Bailey’s is famous for their “Thunder Buns,” an amazing cinnamon roll described as “the most outrageous on the planet” that sells out early each day. If you miss out on those, there are lots of other treats to tempt you, including bread, scones, sausage rolls, and fresh soups. Open Wed through Sun 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. $.

The Depot Restaurant. 1208 38th Place, Seaview; (360) 642-7880; depotrestaurantdining.com. Discover great food and a warm and friendly ambience at this restaurant in a 120-year-old depot building at the end of the historic “Clamshell Railroad.” After the railroad closed, the depot became a rough-and-tumble Coast Guard bar for a few decades before chef Michael Lalewicz and his wife Nancy renovated the depot into a fine-dining destination. Entrees include “landfood” and “seafood.” The Depot’s chowder is to die for, with leeks and steamer clams. They offer a regional and international wine list with 6 microbrews on tap. Monthly winemaker dinners have a preset menu. $$–$$$.

42nd Street Cafe. 4201 Pacific Way, Seaview; (360) 642-2323; 2ndstcafe.com. Showcasing the many cuisines of the West Coast in a casual environment, 42nd Street Cafe is a locals’ favorite. Seafood is a focus, with special dining events around clam-digging season, mushroom season, and the like. Service is great, and 42nd Street sells their condiments to go. Cafe breakfast and lunch Wed through Sun 8 a.m. to 1:30 p.m.; American bistro dinners Tues through Sat beginning at 4:30 p.m. $–$$.

Lost Roo. 1700 S Pacific Hwy., Long Beach; (360) 642-4329; lostroo.com. This big, welcoming establishment offers drinks and fare for the whole family. A restaurant, outdoor patio, and full bar with plenty of televisions please everyone. A big menu with a (slightly) Australian theme includes burgers, seafood, and “sammies.” Open 7 days a week 11:30 a.m. to close. $–$$.

Salt Pub. 147 Howerton Ave., Ilwaco; (360) 642-7258; salt-hotel.com. Tucked into a tiny retro hotel on the Ilwaco Harbor is this little pub with a big heart. The menu is chock-full of delicious food prepared by a Le Cordon Bleu–trained chef. The tuna melt includes local tuna and smoked Tillamook cheese, and you can’t go wrong with the Dungeness mac and cheese or the Parmesan-crusted rockfish. The view of the boats in port is charming too; you might just want to get a room and stay the night. Open for lunch and dinner Thurs through Mon (check website for current hours). $$.

Serious Pizza. 243 Robert Gray Dr., Ilwaco; (360) 642-3060; capedisappointmentstore.com. The place doesn’t look like much, and is only open seasonally, but the wood-fired artisan pizza is worth the wait here. Calling ahead is a good plan. $–$$.

where to stay

Adrift Hotel. 409 Sid Snyder Dr., Long Beach; (800) 561-2456; adrifthotel.com. This 80-room hotel has a minimalist European feel. There is a spa on-site, and they lend out cruiser bikes so guests can explore the Discovery Trail, which is just outside the front doors. Their restaurant, Pickled Fish, serves specialty cocktails, a farm-and-sea-to-table menu, and live entertainment nightly. $$–$$$.

image happy as a clam
I took my children clam digging for the first time on the Long Beach Peninsula a few years ago. Recreational digging of the Pacific razor clam is a classic old-time activity that has taken off in recent years, bringing families out during the fall and spring seasons to dig for dinner. It’s quick and easy to learn, and very fun for all ages, especially if the catching is good. Watching my girls master the art of the clam gun, work hard at unearthing a clam from the wet sand, and celebrate with a happy dance on the beautiful beach next to the Pacific Ocean was a blast. Bring the kids and your clam gun or shovel and see how much fun this sport can be. Specific times and dates are set for legal harvest, and diggers need to purchase a license to harvest shellfish. See visitlongbeachpeninsula.com.

Boreas Bed & Breakfast Inn. 607 Ocean Beach Blvd. N, Long Beach; (360) 642-8069; boreasinn.com. This oceanfront boutique inn has only 5 rooms, making it peaceful and private. A 3-course award-winning brunch is served daily; expect delicious surprises like fruit soup and handmade pastries and cookies. A hot tub out back has only one key so that guests have it all to themselves. Boreas is tucked off of the main road and nestled in the dunes within walking distance of the Discovery Trail and Long Beach Boardwalk. $$–$$$.

The Breakers. WA 103 at 26th Street; (360) 642-4414; breakerslongbeach.com. Four buildings house 122 rooms and suites, making this place a great destination for family lodging. There is an indoor pool and large outdoor hot tub on the property, as well as a children’s play area. Beach access is easy; the Breakers is at one end of the Discovery Trail. Walk toward the beach to see Clark’s Tree, a bronze sculpture emulating a tree that William Clark carved his initials into during Lewis and Clark’s visit to Long Beach Peninsula, and which marks the northernmost and westernmost point of their journey. $$.

China Beach Retreat. 222 Robert Gray Dr., Ilwaco; (360) 642-5660; chinabeachretreat.com. China Beach is the perfect place to unwind. Decorated with an eclectic selection of European and Asian antiques and original artwork, and frequently visited by deer, waterfowl, and bald eagles, China Beach Retreat has a view of the mouth of the Columbia River and Baker Bay and offers private spa tubs and gourmet breakfast. With just 3 guest rooms, you may never see another person—aside from the one you bring with you, that is. For even more seclusion, try the Audubon Cottage, a two-story unit that sleeps 2 with an outdoor jetted tub, on the same property. $$$.

Klipsan Beach Cottages. 22617 Pacific Way, Ocean Park; (360) 665-4888; klipsanbeachcottages.com. These impeccably kept, classic traditional beach cottages at Klipsan Beach sit on a ridge facing the Pacific Ocean and are surrounded by beautifully landscaped grounds. Well-appointed kitchens, fireplaces, and the ocean nearby—what more do you need? $–$$.

Shelburne Hotel. 4415 Pacific Way, Seaview; (360) 642-2442; theshelburnehotelwa.com. Established in 1896, the Shelburne Hotel is the longest continually operating hotel in Washington State. Four-star dining, a stunning breakfast, and a pub serving fine wines and microbrews distinguish this world-renowned country inn retreat right on the main road up the peninsula. $–$$.