day trip 02

Astoria is the oldest American settlement west of the Rockies. In other words, it’s not only the oldest town on the Oregon Coast, but also the oldest in the state and even the entire West Coast. At the same time, it’s a forward-thinking and surprisingly hip little city with great culture and dining options. The proximity to Portland means a sense of modernity and cool that, coupled with Astoria’s incredible natural beauty, makes this city a charming, atmospheric weekend getaway with many wonderful surprises.

Perched on the Columbia River at one of its widest points, and with two tributary rivers winding around the city limits, Astoria is a hilly city dominated by watery views. The town sits on a steep peninsula, and the 360-degree views of the ocean, rivers, and temperate rain forest that surround Astoria are incredibly beautiful.

Astoria was the first permanent US settlement on the Pa cific coast, but eventually Portland, Seattle, and San Francisco surpassed it as the West Coast’s main port cities, and Astoria was left to thrive quietly on the pursuits of fishing and logging, albeit with plenty of leftover historical charm. History is all around you in Astoria, which even before the fur trappers was the place that Lewis and Clark overwintered on their overland journey in the early 1800s. Astoria has more historical markers than anywhere else in Oregon and—in a state that isn’t very old and is on a rugged coastline with weather that doesn’t always treat

buildings kindly—is known for historic architecture, including hundreds of Victorian homes and a revitalized 1920s-era downtown.

Today, tourism is a primary industry. Lovely shops, all kinds of dining, and many museums dot downtown, which clings to a waterfront that once bustled with salmon fisheries. Walking the Astoria Waterfront is a great way to take in the sweep and scope of the Columbia River. Visit Maritime Memorial Pa rk, the 6th Street Viewing Platform, the 14th Street Pier, and the 17th Street Dock to become familiar with Astoria, a vibrant small city alive with a spectacular landscape, rich pa st, and classy culture.

getting there

From Portland: Take US 26 W / OR 26 west 73 miles. Merge onto US 101 N toward Seaside/Astoria. Continue north for 22 miles until you reach Astoria.

where to go

Astoria Column. At the top of Coxcomb Drive off 15th Street; (503) 325-2963; astoriacolumn.org. For the best view in town, drive up to the top of Astoria’s Coxcomb Drive and then climb another 165 steps on foot to the top of the Astoria Column. The column is an Astoria icon, built in 1926 as the dream child of Ralph Budd, president of the Midwest-based Great Northern Railroad, with support from Vincent Astor, great-grandson of businessman John Jacob Astor, whose Pa cific Fur Company settled Astoria. Stunning views of the Columbia River to the north, the Cascade Range to the east, and the Pa cific Ocean to the west wow those willing to test their lungs with the climb up the winding staircase. This is a great place to go when you first arrive in Astoria to begin to get the lay of the land. Before you climb, buy a balsawood airplane to fly from the top. Even if you don’t choose to climb the column, the views from the pa rking lot are outstanding. Pa rking comes with a $5 annual pa ss; the pa rk is open dawn to dusk.

Astoria Riverfront Trolley. 1 Basin St.; (503) 325-6311; old300.org. Adding to downtown Astoria’s charm is this restored 1913 trolley, which makes a 2.6-mile run along the Columbia River. The conductor does his pa rt by narrating to pa ssengers tales of Astoria’s history and attractions. You can catch a ride on the trolley from just about anywhere on the riverfront between Basin and 39th Streets. Round-trip ride is $1; an all-day pa ss is $2. The round-trip takes about an hour. Hours change seasonally and the trolley does not operate in rain; check website.

Clatsop County Historical Society. 714 Exchange St.; (503) 325-2203; cumtux.org. The society has three museums; two are listed here. Call for hours and details.

The Flavel House. Corner of 8th and Duane Streets. Captain George Flavel was a prominent sea captain and one of the wealthier residents of early Astoria. This quaint Queen Anne Victorian home was built for him in 1885 and features parklike grounds, original Eastlake-style woodwork interiors, and exotic hardwood fireplaces with imported tile surrounds.

Heritage Museum. Corner of 16th and Exchange Streets. A historical exhibit includes Chinook and Clatsop Indian baskets and a partially constructed Astoria saloon. Pick up a booklet here to help guide you on a walking tour of Astoria’s famous historical homes. The exhibit The Astor Party and the Founding of Astoria tells you everything you need to know about Astoria’s beginnings.

Columbia River Maritime Museum. 1792 Marine Dr.; (503) 325-2323; crmm.org. Brave souls have been tackling the oceans and rivers by boat for hundreds of years. Here you can explore marine transportation from the age of dugout canoes to sailboats to the present. There are many exhibits: A film introduces the history of life and commerce on the Columbia River. Crossing the Bar: Perilous Passage takes an exciting look at the legendary Columbia River entrance, where the forces of the mighty Columbia and the Pacific Ocean meet, creating waves that can exceed 40 feet during bad winter storms. Ancient maps show the ways explorers first envisioned the shape of the world. A massive screen shows NOAA data live. An on-site 3-D theater shows a different film each year. Entry to the Lightship Columbia is included with admission; the floating lighthouse is moored outside and offers a glimpse of an early solution to helping seamen navigate the treacherous bar. Open daily 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Fort Stevens State Park. 100 Peter Iredale Rd., Hammond; (503) 861-3170; oregonstateparks.org. Fort Stevens was the primary military defense installation at the mouth of the Columbia River, serving from the Civil War through World War II. Today the site is a great place to access and walk the beach, as well as catch a glimpse of the wreck of the Peter Iredale, an oceangoing ship that was destroyed near the mouth of the Columbia River in the early part of the 20th century. The ship ran aground at Clatsop Beach, striking shore with such force that three masts snapped upon impact. None of the crew of 27 was hurt (including two castaways!), but the ship ended up a total loss. The wreck can still be seen at low tide and makes for a striking scene. Fort Stevens State Park is great for all sorts of recreation, including camping, boating, swimming, picnicking, hiking, and biking. $5 daily fee; camping also available.

Lewis and Clark National Historic Park (Fort Clatsop Unit). 92343 Fort Clatsop Rd.; (503) 861-2471; nps.gov/lewi. Lewis and Clark spent a winter here, hoping that a ship would pass by to return them to their homes on the East Coast. When that didn’t happen, in the spring of 1806, they returned the way they’d come—but not before getting a solid taste of a Pacific Northwest winter spent in a fort they built. What will strike you right away, with your own memories of bad weather and close quarters crowding in, is how small the fort is. The facility includes the reconstructed fort, a visitor center and museum, historical exhibits, a canoe landing, a picnic area, trails through the wetlands, and a rain forest of young Sitka spruce and western hemlock. During the summer months, experience living-history demonstrations depicting fort activities. Open daily: summer 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.; winter 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.

a watery grave

The South Jetty, which sits at the northern tip of Fort Stevens State Park, is a great place to get a view of the infamous Columbia River Bar. The bar is the place where the Columbia River collides with the Pacific Ocean, and it has taken down hundreds of ships over time. The colliding currents, wind, and massive waves have sunk approximately 2,000 vessels here since 1792, earning the location the nickname “Graveyard of the Pacific.” While you stand on the overlook at the jetty, take a look at the geography around you. Another reason the bar is so treacherous is that the shores of the Columbia River are solid basalt, created from lava flows thousands of years old. These tough rock walls compress and contain the river’s flow, forcing it to shoot from the river terminus like water from a fire hose. But all that water does is collide with more water—the incoming tides of the Pacific—hence, the massive waves and terrifying currents that have far too often turned deadly. Massive jetties were constructed over a hundred years ago to try to gain some semblance of control over the water, but the bar remains as dangerous as ever and ships to this day are not allowed to cross without a specially trained and certified bar pilot.

Oregon Film Museum. 732 Duane St.; (503) 325-2203; oregonfilmmuseum.org. Astoria’s beauty and architecture have attracted many to the area, including filmmakers. To celebrate the 25th anniversary of the Steven Spielberg film The Goonies, the Oregon Film Museum was born in 2010. Housed in the historic Clatsop County Jail, which was featured in the opening scene of The Goonies, the museum is dedicated to preserving the art and legacy of Oregon films and filmmaking. Other movies filmed in Oregon include Overboard, Short Circuit, The Black Stallion, Kindergarten Cop, Free Willy, Free Willy 2: The Adventure Home, Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles III, Benji the Hunted, The Ring, The Ring Two, Into the Wild, The Guardian, and Cthulhu. If you happen to be in town on the weekend nearest June 7 of any year, you’re in for a special treat: Annually, fans flock to Astoria for the Goonies Day celebration, a weekend of treasure hunting, group truffle shuffles, trivia scavenger hunts, and more. Depending on the year, visitors might experience cast and crew reunions, film screenings, fan gatherings, filming location tours, and much more. Open daily; hours vary seasonally.

where to shop

Astoria Vintage Hardware. 1162 Marine Dr.; (503) 325-1313. The owners met at a flea market, and the rest is history. This business has expanded and moved more than once, always maintaining its immense charm but allowing for even more amazing relics to be displayed. From vintage double front doors to antique furniture to the world’s largest “Operation” game, this place is full of fabulous finds. A “Vintage Flea Market” runs the first Sunday of July, Aug, Sept, and Oct.

Chariot Spirit and Home. 1421 Commercial St.; (503) 502-7023; chariothome.com. A combination housewares retailer, interior design studio, and spiritual workshop, Chariot carries vintage and one-of-a-kind housewares for the home and intends to inspire everyone who walks in the door. Classes and workshops are offered here too, in this beautiful space in a classic downtown building storefront.

Josephson’s Smokehouse. 106 Marine Dr.; (800) 772-FISH; josephsons.com. For nearly 90 years, Josephson’s has sold the finest local smoked, canned, and jerked seafood. At their historic smokehouse, an unequaled variety of seafood is smoked daily, sold at retail fresh from the smokers, packed for individual mail order to customers and restaurants, and shipped worldwide.

Lucy’s Books. 348 12th St.; (503) 325-4210; lucys-books.com. Every town needs a charming downtown bookstore, and Lucy’s Books is Astoria’s answer. Located in the historic Liberty Theater Building, Lucy’s welcomes you to linger in two rocking chairs. Whether you are reading or being read to, Lucy’s has something for everyone.

who put the “astor” in astoria?

You know you’re a big cheese when a place you’ve never actually visited is named for you. Without ever setting foot on a single rain-soaked acre of what is now Clatsop County, John Jacob Astor founded the Columbia River fur-trading post Fort Astoria in 1811, which also became the first permanent US settlement on the Pacific coast. Astor made quite a lot of money off of the beaver furs of Astoria, but never made a visit himself. Still, his name endures on the map and all over the landscape too. Learn more about John Jacob Astor at the Astoria Column, the Clatsop County Heritage Museum, and the Columbia River Maritime Museum.

where to eat

Albatross. 12nd St.; (503) 325-0033; shipinn-astoria.com. You might just feel like one of Astoria’s long-ago mariners here. Cornish pasties, great fish-and-chips, and calamari are served in a true English pub atmosphere. Don’t miss the fabulous views of the Columbia River, and, of course, there are lots of great beers on tap. $$.

Astoria Coffeehouse and Bistro. 243 11th St.; (503) 325-1787; astoriacoffeehouse.com. This place looks unassuming, but you will no doubt love your experience here, whether it’s for a cup of coffee or an utterly fantastic dinner. Astoria Coffeehouse makes everything from scratch—even the ketchup—and serves Stumptown Roasters coffee; fresh gourmet pastries; homemade soups, salads, and entrees; and a wide variety of hot and cold beverages, plus cocktails, beer, and wine. The decor is funky and cool; don’t miss the collection of globes perched on a high shelf around the room. Centrally located right downtown—look for the neon coffee cup on 11th Street. Open 7 days a week for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. $$.

Baked Alaska. 1 12th St.; (503) 325-7414; bakedak.com. Voted “best happy hour” by the locals, this fine dining and public house serves delicious food inspired by the region and the season. Wild, natural, and sustainable fare dominates the menu. Try the wild salmon or the pork shank. Bonus: Baked Alaska overlooks the Columbia River and offers lovely views. Open for lunch and dinner 7 days a week. $$$.

Blue Scorcher Bakery Cafe. 1493 Duane St.; (503) 338-7473; bluescorcher.coop. Operating as a worker collective with the motto “joyful work, delicious food, and strong community,” Blue Scorcher creates artisan breads, pastries, and handcrafted seasonal foods using local and organic ingredients. A children’s area features a play kitchen and makes this restaurant a natural gathering place for families. Located in the historic Fort George building with views of the Columbia River. (PS: A “scorcher” is a line of bicycles that appeared in the late 1880s, renowned for their speed. Who knew?) Open 7 days a week for breakfast and lunch. $.

Bowpicker. Located across from the Clatsop County Heritage Museum, at the corner of 17th and Duane Streets, in a converted gillnet boat; bowpicker.com. Getting your lunch from this dry-docked but authentic fishing boat will make you feel a bit closer to the sea. Bowpicker is locally famous for their beer-battered albacore tuna and steak fries—the best fish-and-chips in town. Hours vary dramatically, based on the season and the weather. Call ahead. $.

Bridgewater Bistro. 20 Basin St., Ste. A; (503) 325-6777; bridgewaterbistro.com. This well-lit, high-ceilinged, attractive, modern wood-and-metal space in a renovated boatyard on the west end of downtown provides river and bridge views from every table. The menu is composed of creatively prepared seafood, meats, soups, and vegetarian entrees. Choose a table in the family-friendly casual bistro setting or on the fine-dining mezzanine. Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner; brunch on Sun. $$–$$$.

Buoy Beer Company. 1 8th St.; (503) 325-4540; buoybeer.com. Established in 2013 with a grand opening in 2014, Buoy Beer was the third brewery to open its doors in Astoria. Whether you are a beer drinker or not, Buoy’s location in a 90-year-old cannery overlooking the riverfront is worth a visit for the view alone. A floor window in the main dining room gives a view of resting sea lions and is a great distraction for the kids. Try the habanero oyster deviled eggs or chicken Romesco while large vessels passing by keep you company. Open daily at 11 a.m. $–$$.

Carruther’s. 1198 Commercial St.; (503) 975-5305; carruthers-restaurant.business.site. This cozy American bistro serves delicious comfort food in a hip environment. From mussels to halibut to peanut butter cheesecake, the dishes are as imaginative as they are delectable. The restaurant is named for the 1920s-era Carruther’s Building that it occupies, and the eatery maintains era-appropriate class and style. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $–$$.

Fort George Brewery and Public House. 1483 Duane St.; (503) 325-PINT; fortgeorgebrewery.com. Pub food and seafood are served in this popular brewpub built in an incredible old building that was once an auto repair shop. Try the sausage sampler with spicy mustard or the albacore tuna melt. Enjoy live music on some weekends, and outdoor dining seasonally. The beers are plentiful, varied, reliably delicious, and often on tap around the Pacific Northwest, if you don’t catch them here. Fort George, by the way, was briefly the name of Astoria, renamed for King George when England seized temporary control during the War of 1812. Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner. $$.

Frite and Scoop. 175 14th St.; (503) 468-0416; friteandscoop.com. Ice cream and french fries, french fries and ice cream—could there be a better combination? This newish spot on the waterfront makes their own small-batch ice cream and from-scratch Belgian frites from Kennebac potatoes. A large covered seating area makes it easy to stay out of the weather, with a view of the river, while you finish your snack. Hours change seasonally; call ahead. $.

Mo’s. 101 15th St.; (971) 704-1750; moschowder.com. Astoria is one of Mo’s eight locations, but the only one perched on a pier overlooking the massive Columbia River. The classic Oregon family-owned chowder restaurant delivers meals surrounded by a medley of beach-kitsch decor with a standard but well-prepared seafood-laden menu. Try the hot crab melt or the albacore tuna salad sandwich. Open daily 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. $–$$.

Silver Salmon Grille. 1105 Commercial St.; (503) 338-6640; silversalmongrille.com. The historic Fisher Building that houses this restaurant was built in 1924, but it’s got nothing on the bar that sits inside. The Silver Salmon’s ornately carved antique bar is 120 years old, is constructed of Scottish cherrywood, and was shipped around Cape Horn in the 1880s. This romantic, historic restaurant in downtown offers great food, drinks, and desserts. Open for lunch and dinner 7 days a week. $$–$$$.

where to stay

Cannery Pier Hotel. 10 Basin St.; (888) 325-4996; cannerypierhotel.com. Built on the site of the former Union Fish Cannery 600 feet over the Columbia River, this hotel is the ultimate in comfort and luxury, Astoria style. Guests, who have up-close and unparalleled views of a real working river, are provided with a list of the ships they should expect to see pass by their windows during their stay, as well as a description of their cargo. Views of the amazing Astoria-Megler Bridge and Cape Disappointment are also impressive. Each room has a private balcony and fireplace; halls are decorated with wonderful historical photographs of Astoria. Complimentary wine and hors d’oeuvres in the evening; continental breakfast in the morning. A free chauffeur-driven limo service uses classic old cars to shuttle you to and from your evening destination, making you feel a bit like royalty. The real star is that big old beautiful river out the window; you’ll have a hard time tearing your eyes off of it. Expensive, but worth every penny. $$$+.

Commodore Hotel Astoria. 258 14th St.; (503) 325-4747; commodoreastoria.com. Crisp, modernist rooms are found here in this historic renovated building. The location in the heart of downtown is ideal for exploration. All rooms have a flat-screen TV, radiant heat, and premium bathrobes. Some rooms are pet-friendly. $–$$.

Grandview Bed and Breakfast. 1574 Grand Ave.; (503) 325-5555; grandviewbedandbreakfast.com. This lovely and romantic Victorian house on the Historic Homes Walking Tour features wonderful Columbia River views. Three two-bedroom and 3 one-bedroom lodgings with private baths have lace and floral decor. $–$$.

Hotel Elliott. 357 12th St.; (503) 325-2222; hotelelliott.com. Built in 1924, Hotel Elliott underwent a dramatic 3-year transformation in the early 2000s to expand rooms and glamorize everything, but preserve the classic ambience. This beautifully restored old hotel has a fabulous rooftop terrace, cellar wine bar, and proximity to downtown restaurants. The rooms are designed for relaxed comfort. $$–$$$.

worth more time

The Youngs River is one of the tributary waterways of the Columbia. Ten miles south of Astoria, the river tumbles as a 54-foot waterfall called Youngs River Falls into a pool beneath. The trail from the parking lot is short, maybe a 5-minute hike, but be aware that the last stretch down to the pool is steep and rocky. Visitors often swim in the pool in the summer months. This is a great place to witness the immortalization of Oregon places by Oregon-made films, as you might recognize this site from the films Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles III and Free Willy 2.