day trip 04

Cannon Beach is Oregon’s resident artist. Galleries abound, in each a plethora of eclectic artistic talent, and this little city has been voted one of the 100 best art towns in the United States. Cannon Beach offers all of the other things a coastal town should too—stunning beach walks, tasty foods and beverages, kites to fly, sandcastles to build, and rooms with a view.

As for the cannons of Cannon Beach, you can catch a glimpse of them too. In 1846, the US Naval schooner Shark, part of a surveying fleet, arrived off the mouth of the Columbia River. The ship landed in Astoria and, after a month, disembarked again only to encounter troubled waters and run up against rocks. The captain ordered the jettison of all cannons, and ultimately several washed ashore south of Cannon Beach at Arch Cape. One is displayed at the Cannon Beach History Center and Museum, and in recent years efforts have been made to preserve it from the effects of time and rust.

Interestingly, two more cannons were uncovered. In February 2008 after an especially low tide, the sand had been washed away from the beach at Arch Cape to reveal two cannons, presumably also from the wreck of the Shark. Not only did the event underscore Cannon Beach’s name, but it also proved that history has a way of staking its claim on even the most modern and artistic city.

getting there

From Portland: Take OR 26 / US 26 W west 73 miles until you reach US 101 S / Oregon Coast Highway. Turn south on US 101 and proceed 4.3 miles to the Cannon Beach exits. Follow signs into town.

where to go

Cannon Beach History Center and Museum. 1387 South Spruce St.; (503) 436-9301; cbhistory.org. Before and after the cannons, Cannon Beach has a very interesting history. This museum features a Native American longhouse, a rotating quilt show, concerts, lectures, and more. There’s also information to be found here about the history center’s fabulous, well-marked historical walking tour of Cannon Beach, which focuses on buildings in the downtown area. Open every day but Tues. Free admission.

Ecola State Park. Off US 101, 2 miles north of Cannon Beach; oregonstateparks.org/park_188. One of the Oregon Coast’s more dramatic headlands, Ecola offers sweeping bird’s-eye views of the Pacific Ocean. A paved road leads from Cannon Beach to climb through the thick forest. After winding through Sitka spruce, visitors emerge to a gorgeous view of the Pacific Ocean. Hiking, picnicking, and exploration of the Clatsop Loop Interpretive Trail are all fun things to do at Ecola State Park. Surfers enjoy Indian Beach and tide pool aficionados do too. Migrating whales pass by in winter and spring, and wildlife and birds are here year-round.

Ecola is also the ideal location from which to spot “Terrible Tilly” Tillamook Rock Lighthouse, located 1 mile offshore of Tillamook Head Beach. The lighthouse is nicknamed Terrible Tilly because of its location on a rock in the middle of the tumultuous Pacific Ocean. The now-decommissioned lighthouse was built in 1881 by the US Army Corps of Engineers, and lighthouse keepers actually had to be hoisted onto the rock with a derrick. The lighthouse was shut down in 1957 when it had become the most expensive US lighthouse to operate. You can’t visit Tilly, but you can enjoy her from safe vantage points, Cannon Beach or Ecola State Park. Ecola State Park daily use $5 permits can be purchased on-site, or display an annual Oregon State Parks permit.

Haystack Rock. Haystack Rock is one of Oregon’s iconic symbols, featured on postcards and book covers and in many movies, including The Goonies, Kindergarten Cop, and Sometimes a Great Notion. The 235-foot-tall monolith (or sea stack) rock formation sits just offshore at Cannon Beach and is intertidal, meaning it can be reached by land on foot during low tides. Get a tide table to plan your trip to the popular tourist destination (minus or low tides are optimal). The tide pools here are home to many animals, including starfish, sea anemones, crabs, limpets, and sea slugs. The rock is also home to many seabirds, including terns and puffins. During the summer, volunteer interpreters are on the beach at low tide. Words of warning: The sea life that Haystack shelters is fragile. Treat it with care and do not step on sea life. Stay on sand and bare rocks only. Also pay attention to the tide; people each year become temporarily trapped on Haystack Rock when high tide returns.

Hug Point State Recreation Area. 4 miles south of Cannon Beach on US 101. Before the highway was built, stagecoaches used to run along the beach here, but even at low tide, there wasn’t a lot of room, and they had to “hug” the point. North of the parking area at this site you can still walk along the original trail carved into the point. Look for the hidden waterfall around a small headland, and caves carved into cliffs. The view north from Hug Point includes Silver Point Rock and Cannon Beach’s famous offshore icon, Haystack Rock. Be careful here—the tide can sneak up on you.

where to shop

Art galleries. A visitor could make an entire day trip out of just Cannon Beach’s art galleries. We couldn’t list them all here, but this is a start. Bring your favorite art critic and your credit cards. Call for hours—many coastal establishments close up shop for a couple of midweek days in the winter off-season.

Bronze Coast Gallery. 224 N Hemlock St., Ste. 2; (503) 436-1055; bronzecoastgallery.com. Specializing in limited edition bronze sculptures, the Bronze Coast Gallery has been in Cannon Beach for more than 25 years and has become one of the Oregon Coast’s premier fine art galleries. The gallery also spotlights original painting, photography, and gicleé reproductions and features more than 30 award-winning regional, national, and international artists.

DragonFire Studio and Gallery. 123 S Hemlock St., Ste. 106; (503) 436-1533; dragonfirestudio.com. DragonFire offers surprisingly affordable original art by local, regional, and national artists in media ranging from paint to fiber to metal. Seasonal 2- and 3-day workshops in everything from portrait composition to watercolors are offered, and live music occasionally accompanies the art.

IceFire Glassworks. 116 E Gower St.; (888) 423-3545; cbgallerygroup.com/icefire-glassworks. Glass art is a particular favorite of mine. It seems to fit even better at the beach, where the sparkle of the sea complements the beauty of blown and sculpted glassworks, here by artists James Kingwell, Suzanne Kindland, Michelle Kaptur, and Mark Gordon.

Modern Villa Gallery. 224 N Hemlock St., Ste. 6; (503) 436-2428; modernvillagallery.com. Paintings by Josef Kote, Sarah Goodnough, Anne Packard, and others brighten the walls of this contemporary gallery, and maybe your house next.

White Bird Gallery. 251 N Hemlock St.; (503) 436-2681; whitebirdgallery.com. One of the first galleries to fully incorporate fine art with fine craft, White Bird has been making a mark on the Cannon Beach art scene since 1971.

beach art

For 55 years, Cannon Beach has hosted a sandcastle building contest in June. Everyone is invited to enter, from 6-years-and-under “Sand Fleas” to more experienced “Sand Masters.” The weekend also includes a night parade, beach bonfire, live music, and a 5K run and walk. Given that Cannon Beach is repeatedly voted one of the best beaches in the US, it’s worth coming on down to the shore and crafting a masterpiece out of sand any old time. See cannonbeach.org for more information.

Center Diamond. 1065 S Hemlock St.; (503) 436-0833; centerdiamond.com. A favorite with quilters and textile artists, Center Diamond offers special contemporary fabrics including a large selection of batiks, Asian, and seashore-related designs. Open daily except holidays.

Dena’s Shop on the Corner. 123 S Hemlock St., Ste. 101; (503) 436-1275; denasshop.com. Higher-end contemporary women’s clothing in a charming atmosphere. You’ll also find jewelry, shoes, and great customer service here. Open 7 days a week.

Found. 1287 S Hemlock St.; (503) 436-1812. A great mix of antiques, repurposed objects, cool artisan jewelry, artwork, stained glass, furniture, and tabletop finds. Found’s finds run with a beachy theme—this is the place to find something to decorate your beach house or remind you of your beach vacation once you get back home.

La Luna Loca. 107 N Hemlock St.; (503) 436-0774; lalunaloca.com. The moon may or may not be crazy, but you’d be not to stop in and see La Luna Loca’s handcrafts and fair-trade items. Artisan-made clothing, sarongs, jewelry, and decor beat the rhythm of distant lands.

Maggie and Henry. 172 N Hemlock St.; (503) 436-1718; maggieandhenry.com. Henry’s used to be a small imprinted sportswear store. Maggie’s specialized in casual women’s fashion. Then Maggie and Henry got married. Maggie and Henry is a blend of the two original stores, providing casual comfort for both women and men. Open 7 days a week; hours vary seasonally.

where to eat

Cannon Beach Hardware & Public House. 1235 S Hemlock St.; (503) 436-4086; cannonbeachhardware.com. Nicknamed “Screw and Brew” by locals, this destination holds the unique distinction of being a place to grab hardware supplies and a pint of beer, simultaneously. The menu features burgers, hot dogs, barbecue pulled pork, an ahi salad, and, most popularly, Cajun-flavored tater tots. A full cocktail bar and wine are also available. The atmosphere is casual, fun, and family-friendly. Sit in a decommissioned airplane or pickup truck seat next to a display of kites or dog leashes for sale, while sipping a local microbrew and eavesdropping on the conversations of the locals that love this place. Open for lunch and dinner Thurs through Tues. $–$$.

Driftwood Inn Restaurant and Lounge. 179 N Hemlock St.; (503) 436-2439; driftwoodcannonbeach.com. Locals’ favorite for seafood and steaks for over 70 years. The exterior has a Bavarian flavor, and an outdoor patio has become prime real estate for happy diners, especially on sunny summer afternoons. Try the salmon, filet mignon, or steamed clams. Open daily for lunch and dinner. $$–$$$.

EVOO Cooking School. 188 S Hemlock St.; (503) 436-8555; evoo.biz. EVOO is less like your usual evening out and more like purchasing a ticket to a live show—one at which you learn something and are fed a delicious dinner. EVOO is named for a frequently used ingredient, extra virgin olive oil. Chefs Lenore and Bob Neroni took years of culinary experience and a desire to live at the Oregon Coast and opened EVOO in 2004. Their dinner shows in three acts celebrate the local bounty of coastal rivers, oceans, fields, trees, and vines. Guests gather around the chefs’ kitchen-bar and watch the preparation of three full-meal courses paired with three wines, followed by a great dessert. Their hope is to entertain and inspire guests to re-create great foods and local flavors in their own lives. A lively discussion about food and wine comes with the experience too. See their website for offerings and availability. $$$.

a sea-foodie’s dream

In recent years, as the foodie culture has blossomed nationwide, the celebration of Oregon Coast foods has grown from a casual given to a devoted ritual. Two events have sprung up in Cannon Beach to celebrate local foods: Savor Cannon Beach: A Wine and Culinary Festival in March and the North Coast Culinary Fest in May. See chef demonstrations, taste dozens of regional wines, try Dungeness crab and other delights fresh from the sea, and mingle with other seafood-lovers at these multiday events. Miss the festivals? No problem. Year-round, Cannon Beach offers a seat at the table at EVOO Cooking School and many innovative, local-food-inspired restaurants.

The Irish Table. 1235 S Hemlock St.; (503) 436 0708; theirishtable.com. Chef and owner Crystal Corbin’s daily menus are highlighted by homemade soups, soda bread, and fresh fish. A variety of whiskeys, wine, and Irish beers on tap accompany delicious dishes. Irish classics like shepherd’s pie and Irish stew are offered alongside a fresh fish-of-the-day and curried mussels at this Pacific Northwest–British Isles fusion spot. (The building is also home to Sleepy Monk Coffee Roasters; see below). Closed Wed and Thurs. $$.

Newman’s at 988. 988 S Hemlock St.; (503) 436-1151; newmansat988.com. Newman’s at 988 serves classic French/Italian cuisine with a focus on the Piedmont and Genoa areas of Italy. The restaurant serves an à la carte menu as well as a chef’s prix fixe menu that changes nightly. Chef Newman uses the finest, freshest ingredients the North Coast has to offer and serves them in an intimate dining atmosphere enhanced by the music of legendary singers such as Frank Sinatra and Tony Bennett. Hours vary seasonally. $$$.

Sleepy Monk Coffee Roasters. 1235 S Hemlock St.; 503-436-2796; sleepymonkcoffee.com. It’s not common for two restaurants to occupy one building, but in a coastal town with variable seasonal business, and considering one rent for two different concepts, it might be just plain brilliant. This small, two-room building has two personalities: Sleepy Monk by day, Irish Table by night. At Sleepy Monk, acquire a cup of fresh-roasted organic coffee with names like Monastery Blend and Fiddler’s Fusion. You can also take a bag away with you or order it online and have it shipped to your home. Closed Wed. $–$$.

Sweet Basil’s Cafe. 271 N Hemlock St.; (503) 436-1539; cafesweetbasils.com. Chef John Sowa conceived Sweet Basil’s as a change in his own lifestyle and diet, after cooking Cajun food for years. We all get to benefit from his “fork in the road.” Natural, organic, and wild ingredients go into healthy foods that still excite the palate. A nice selection of vegetarian and vegan choices as well as seafood, poultry, and pork dishes by way of salads, cold and hot sandwiches, wraps, panini, and fusion dishes all tickle the taste buds. Open for lunch and dinner Wed through Sun. $–$$.

where to stay

Blue Gull Inn. 632 S Hemlock St.; (800) 559-0893; bluegullinn.net. Cannon Beach’s hacienda by the sea, the Blue Gull brings a little Mexico to Cannon Beach. Each cottage has handcrafted wooden furniture made in the Blue Gull’s own woodshop, and is located around a central courtyard with a Spanish-style fountain. $–$$.

The Lodges at Cannon Beach. 132 E Surfcrest Ave.; (503) 440-6310; lodgesatcannonbeach.com. The lodges are beautiful, fully furnished Cannon Beach townhomes with state-of-the-art kitchens, great rooms, and open floor plans. Units with 2 or 3 bedrooms accommodate up to 6 adults; furnishings are warm, cozy, and comfortable. $$$.

The Ocean Lodge. 2864 S Pacific St.; (503) 436-2241; theoceanlodge.com. One of the loveliest and most hospitable inns on the whole coast. With hints of a 1940s beach resort, the Ocean Lodge is great place for simple family fun and nostalgic pleasure. Amenities like a library of games and books on-site and a cookie jar aim to please all generations. $$–$$$.

Sea Sprite. 280 Nebesna; (866) 828-1050; seasprite.com. Three great locations—Sea Sprite at Haystack Rock, Sea Sprite on the Estuary, and Sea Sprite Vacation Rentals—with one great sense of beachside charm. Sea Sprite at Haystack Rock offers oceanfront views, while Sea Sprite at the Estuary sits on scenic Ecola Creek with plenty of wildlife viewing. Two additional vacation rental cottages sleep up to 6. $$–$$$.

The Stephanie Inn. 2740 S Pacific St.; (855) 977-2444; stephanieinn.com. The Stephanie Inn is known in Oregon for luxury and romance. With views of majestic Haystack Rock, the Pacific Ocean, and the lovely Oregon Coast Range, the oceanfront Stephanie Inn combines the charm and casual elegance of a New England country inn with the sophistication of a boutique resort hotel. The four-star Stephanie Inn Dining Room serves a complimentary breakfast buffet each morning, and the chef prepares a 5-course dinner nightly, which features the freshest in seasonal Northwest ingredients. $$–$$$.