day trip 05

down by the bay:manzanita, nehalem, wheeler

manzanita

Manzanita is a beloved destination for many longtime visitors. Like Cannon Beach, Manzanita is an artsy town with a wide sandy beach, easy walkability, and oodles of charming wood- shake buildings. But Manzanita is just a little bit smaller and a little bit mellower than its cousins to the north. As a destination, it flew under the radar for a while, and while the town has most definitely been discovered now, it holds its quiet past. It’s easy to feel relaxed and comfortable wandering around this small, lovely town.

A lot of the appeal has to do with Manzanita’s singular charm. Maybe it’s the single street that leads from Highway 101 directly to the ocean. Nearly everything shop- and service-wise in Manzanita is located on Laneda Avenue, the town’s main business street. It leads to the sea and a large, flat beach just begging for a stroll. Maybe it’s the lovely green landscaping around town. You’ll see examples of the town’s namesake plant on Laneda too—look for the clumps of small, shiny green leaves that indicate manzanita. Maybe it’s the welcoming locals selling beach-friendly items and tasty treats to happy coastal visitors. Maybe it’s Neah-Kah-Nie Mountain towering protectively over the beach from the north. Maybe it’s all of the above. Whatever the source of the charm, Manzanita is an easy place to be and a difficult place to leave.

getting there

From Portland: Take OR 26 / US 26 W west 64 miles until you reach OR 53. Turn south on OR 53 and proceed 18 miles to Manzanita.

where to go

Nehalem Bay State Park. On the south end of Manzanita; oregonstateparks.org. Known for 900 acres of forest trails and awesome vistas, Nehalem State Park offers camping, horseback riding, beachcombing, crabbing, and fishing. RV and tent campgrounds, yurts, a horse camp with corrals, an airstrip with fly-in camping, and a hiker-biker camp provide plenty of overnight options. Take a short walk over the dunes to the beach and watch the sun set over the ocean, in the shadow of Neah-Kah-Nie Mountain.

Oregon Beach Rides. In Nehalem Bay State Park; (971)-237-6653; oregonbeachrides.com. Did you know that horse hooves squeak when they hit the sand? Come and find out with a horseback ride on the beach through this outfitter. One-hour, 2-hour, half-day, and full-day rides are offered right on the beach. Cost per person ranges from $75 to $250.

Oswald West State Park. 5 miles north of Manzanita; oregonstateparks.org. Named for the 14th governor of Oregon, Oswald West State Park is a favorite destination for wildlife viewing, tide-pooling, and surfing. A quarter-mile walk from US 101 through an old-growth forest of spruce and cedar will take you to Short Sands Beach, one of the loveliest beach coves on the Oregon Coast and a very popular surfing spot. Sheltered by high cliffs on both ends and surrounded by well-preserved coastal forest, “Shorty’s,” as the locals call it, is a beloved beach by many. Several other trails lead to the Cape Falcon overlook or to the Oregon Coast Trail. Oswald West also offers many picnic locations, but no camping.

where to shop

Bahama Mama’s Bikes, Boards and Beach Fare. 123 Laneda Ave.; (503) 368-2453; manzanitabike.com. Manzanita’s only bike and surfboard rental shop offers fat tire bikes, sit- down cruisers, surfboards, paddleboards, and boogie boards for rent or sale. Cruise the beach in style, or just pick up a hat, towel, sunglasses, or other beach goods.

Cloud and Leaf0. 148 Laneda Ave.; (503) 368-2665; cloudandleaf.wordpress.com. This little bookstore is everything a bookstore should be, with nooks, crannies, and books galore. You’ll also find plenty of Oregon authors’ works here, from memoir to young adult fiction and everything in between.

Manzanita Grocery and Deli. 193 Laneda Ave.; (503) 368-5362; manzanitamarket.com. This is one of those fun groceries where you can buy staple food items, fine wine, or a great deli sandwich and rent a movie all in one stop. A 10 percent senior discount is offered every Tues. Open 7 days a week.

	beach rollers
	The Manzanita Visitors Center wants everyone to enjoy the beach, no matter their ability or mobility. The center offers three beach wheelchairs at no cost for use seven days a week. Two adult-sized wheelchairs and one kid-sized wheelchair are easy to use and allow for excellent beach mobility. Stop by the visitor center at 31 Laneda Ave. or call (503) 812-5510 to make a reservation.

Manzanita Sweets. 310 Laneda Ave.; (503) 368-3792. Manzanita Sweets offers a breathtaking assortment of old-fashioned candy, handcrafted chocolates, and saltwater taffy from regional sources. A wide array of antiques and novelties round out the offerings.

Unfurl. 447 Laneda Ave.; (503) 368-8316; unfurlclothing.com. High-quality and environmentally sustainable merchandise for men, women, and children. Clothing, shoes, accessories, and the like are all very fashion-forward, with a portion of sales going to support charities. You’ll find lots of eco-fiber clothing and planet-friendly accessories for baby and child. Open 7 days a week.

where to eat

Bread and Ocean. 154 Laneda Ave.; (503) 368-5823; breadandocean.com. A fantastic bakery, take-out spot, deli, and restaurant that serves fresh-baked pastries, hot-from- the-oven bread, fresh salads, homemade soups, and creative fresh dinners. Open Wed through Sun for breakfast and lunch, Fri and Sat for dinner. $–$$$.

Left Coast Siesta. 288 Laneda Ave.; (503) 368-7997; leftcoastsiesta.com. This take on fresh Mexican food deserves a hard look—especially when you consider this little burrito shop celebrated 25 years of service in 2019. The big or wet burritos come loaded with organic fillings (try the sunflower seeds) and are available in 5 different tortilla flavors. Inside and outside seating is available at this casual, affordable place with eclectic decor and a beachy vibe. Don’t miss the hot sauce bar. Closed Mon and Tues. $.

MacGregor’s Whiskey Bar. 387 Laneda Ave.; (503) 368-2447; macgregorswhiskeybar.com. The bartending wizards at MacGregor’s can whip up anything you desire, though the focus is on the over 140 bottles of whiskey they keep on hand. Great food, including traditional Scottish favorites and meat and cheese platters, keeps you from getting hungry. Consider visiting on Thurs, which is trivia night. There is also a second location at Cannon Beach. $$.

Neah-Kah-Nie Bistro. 519 Laneda Ave.; (503) 368-2722; nknbistro.com. It’s hard to argue with anything labeled “gourmet comfort food.” Chef Lynne Hopper brings a background in catering to this little restaurant that quickly made a name for itself with the locals. Lynne’s son Eisha runs the bar. Start with “fancy fries,” with garlic, parsley, and truffle oil, then move on to the rib eye or stuffed fresh fish. Open Tues through Sat for dinner. $$.

San Dune Pub. 127 Laneda Ave.; (503) 368-5080; sandunepub.com. A locals’ favorite voted one of the best bars outside of Portland, this lodge-style pub and restaurant offers sandwiches and seafood alongside a wide selection of domestic and imported beers. Warm your bones next to their big stone fireplace and have your favorite drink from the full-service bar. On the weekends, dance to live music. In the summer, enjoy the patio with bistro tables and market umbrellas. Open 7 days a week. $–$$.

where to stay

Coast Cabins. 635 Laneda Ave.; (503) 368-7113; coastcabins.com. A variety of lodging options include cabins, lofts, and private homes within walking distance of Manzanita’s restaurants and services. Special touches include wine service at check-in, fresh fruit and chocolate in rooms, s’mores kits for the fire pit, and a fitness center on-site. $$$.

The Inn at Manzanita. 67 Laneda Ave.; (503) 368-6754; innatmanzanita.com. A tranquil spot for a romantic weekend, this inn is ensconced in coastal pine and spruce in an open coastal garden. Thirteen rooms each have Jacuzzi tubs, fuzzy robes, fireplaces, wet bars, down comforters, and private decks. $$.

Spindrift Inn. 114 Laneda Ave.; (503) 368-1001; spindrift-inn.com. Built in 1946, the Spin-drift Inn still retains quaint charm and cozy appeal with beachy, comfortable decor. Affordable rooms open onto a private inner flower garden, where you can relax away from the bustle outside. Quilted bedspreads and kitchenettes make this place cozy and convenient. $–$$.

nehalem

Nehalem is under 3 miles from Manzanita, but it’s a very different village. Located inland on the western bank of the Nehalem River, with Nehalem Bay to the southwest, this picturesque town is all about the landscape that surrounds it. The river winds through, creating wetlands and riverfront views in many places. The forest and mountains beckon, and driving upriver takes one to small farms, many of which were once dairies. Wildlife is often in view.

The name Nehalem is of Indian origin and means “a place where people live,” and if you spend a little time here, you’ll see why they do.

getting there

Nehalem is 2.3 miles east of Manzanita.

where to go

Aldercreek Farm. 35955 Underhill Ln.; (503) 368-3203; nehalemtrust.org. A 54-acre historic dairy farm is now a wildlife sanctuary, community garden, ethnobotanical trail, and native plant nursery. Explore on your own on the Nehalem Teaching Trail, to see native wet-lands, rocky ecosystems, and many indigenous plants, many of which were used by Native Americans. Once a year, a native plant sale is held.

Nehalem Bay Winery. 34965 OR 53; (503) 368-9463; nehalembaywinery.com. There aren’t a whole lot of wineries on the Oregon Coast—most are inland in the Willamette, Umpqua, and Rogue Valleys. Vintner Ray Shackelford has been making wines here at the ocean for four decades. Try his traditional pinot noir or innovative Valley Peach varietals, and enjoy live music in the summer.

North County Recreation District. 36155 9th St.; (855) 444-6273; ncrd.org. A success story of a community coming together to save a treasured location, the North County Recreation District is a pool, a 200-seat performing arts center, a fitness center, and a youth enrichment center. For the visitor, it’s a place to find indoor heated swimming year-round, a performance to enjoy on a rainy night, and even an art gallery with works by local artists for sale.

where to shop

Angelina Boutique and Jewelry. 35696 N US 101; (503) 368-7440. This cute little building with high transom windows and lush flowers out front is just begging for a stop-and- see. Venture in here for handmade jewelry, accessories, and unique clothing. Choose from hats, purses, earrings, shoes, and even handmade soap.

the winds of summer

Summer on the Oregon Coast is when the skies are most likely to be clear and the sun shining. But often, that comes with a strong north wind, which is beneficial for blowing those clouds out of the way but not always pleasant to spend a day outdoors in. But Oregon Coasties know a secret. Head inland from practically any coastal location and within 5 miles the wind will have died down and the temperatures may have risen a full 10 degrees. If the winds are powerful in Manzanita and you are in search of warmth and reprieve, drive up the Nehalem River to Nehalem Falls Campground or Cougar Valley State Park. Kick back and relax, wind-free.

Nehalem Food Mart. 35800 N US 101; (503) 368-5639. A small-town grocery store with heart, charm—and fresh oysters. There is a little something for anyone here, alongside staples for everyone. The shop has a sign out front with changeable letters that somehow always manages to make me giggle with its messaging of the day. Look for directives like “milk, worms and beers.”

Pete’s Antiques. 35990 N US 101; (503) 368-6018. A sweet little antiques shop specializing in glass. Before the era of plastic, the Japanese made fishing net floats out of blown glass, and they would frequently wash ashore on the Oregon Coast. This is the place to find one of these rare antique floats, if you’re lucky.

where to eat

Buttercup Ice Creams & Chowders. 35915 N US 101; (503) 368-2469. When it comes to foods to enjoy at the coast, it doesn’t get more iconic than chowder and ice cream. The owner of this little shop decided to focus her efforts on just these two treats, and it’s working. People flock to Buttercup for a variety of chowders from salmon chowder to provincial fish soup. Ice cream flavors are just as innovative, including lavender lemonade and marshmallow. $.

Pizza Garden. 35815 N US 101; (503) 368-7675. Pizza with a view of the river is what’s for lunch and dinner here. Many choices of toppings include seafood and meats as well as all the things vegetarians love. Butterflies and hummingbirds frequently flit by outside, and on a nice day, guests can sit outside too. $–$$.

Wanda’s Cafe and Bakery. 12880 H St.; (503) 368-8100. This great breakfast and lunch place has a well-established reputation, evidenced by the fact that there is often a line out the door. Stop in for just coffee and a baked good to go, or stay for a meal and enjoy eggs Benedict, an omelet, tuna melt, homemade meatball sandwich, or more. Wine and beer are available also. $–$$.

where to eat & stay

Bunk House Cabin and Rooms. 36315 N US 101; (503) 368-5424. American diner-style food is served here for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Stay right on the property in one of 7 rooms, 2 cabins, or an RV parking and camping spot. There’s even a little candy shop on-site to satiate your sweet tooth after dinner (or anytime, for that matter). Restaurant closed Mon.

Kendra’s River Inn Food & Lodging. 34920 OR 53; (503) 368-7488. At this family-owned inn, stay the night in one of 4 guest rooms for a bed-and-breakfast experience or just come for a meal at the full-service dining room, open 6 days a week (closed Sunday). The small guest rooms each have a private outdoor space, and the menu is large with plenty to choose from. The halibut comes highly recommended. $$.

North Fork 53 Coastal Retreat and Tea Gardens. 77282 OR 53; (503) 368-5382; northfork53.com. This place is several things at once. It’s a tea farm and farm store, where you can purchase delicious teas and produce grown on the premises. It’s a retreat center, where you can book a peaceful getaway for yourself or a group. It’s bed-and-breakfast lodging. And it’s just plain beautiful, with views of the river, forest, and gardens at every turn. $$.

wheeler

Just downriver from Nehalem is Wheeler, another sweet little waterfront village full of hidden charms. At Wheeler, the river transitions to bay, providing a wide expanse of water to gaze upon as well as wildlife watching and a jumping-off point for water-based recreation.

In the past, Wheeler and its people made a living primarily on logging and fishing. Today, the quiet town of about 400 people survives on tourism and the sustenance that comes with that expansive view.

getting there

Wheeler is 2.6 miles south of Nehalem.

where to go

Jetty Fishery. 27550 N US 101, Brighton; (503) 368 5746; jettyfishery.com. This family-owned marina has been in business since 1979, offering crabbing, picnicking, hiking, camping, clamming, fishing, birding, and eating some of the best fresh seafood around. Located on the waters of Nehalem Bay less than 10 feet to tide pools, from the Jetty Fishery you can also boat across the bay to Nehalem Bay State Park and enjoy sandy beaches. Rent a cabin or RV spot, learn to dig clams, and more at this fun spot.

Kelly’s Brighton Marina. 29200 N US 101, Brighton; (503) 368-5745; kellysbrightonmarina.com. Kelly is the owner, and his passion is teaching people how to catch, cook, and enjoy crab. Choose to crab from the dock or a boat, and select a DIY package or have the Kelly’s team clean and cook your catch for you. Crabbing happens year-round, weather permitting. Kelly’s also offers bait, tackle, and fishing advice. There is even RV and tent camping on-site. You might not be able to leave without purchasing Kelly’s signature bright red crab hat to mark the occasion of your fabulous crabbing experience. Hours vary seasonally; call ahead.

Oregon Coast Railriders. 130 Marine Dr.; (541) 786-6165; ocrailriders.com. With a primary location in Bay City, Oregon Coast Railriders recently expanded to Wheeler. This is a unique opportunity to cycle on a railroad. Four-seated, pedal-powered railroad quadricycles are powered by you and three of your friends along an inactive portion of the Port of Tillamook Bay Railroad. Pass by forests, farms, and waterfronts. The ride from Wheeler goes north along the river for 9 miles round-trip.

Wheeler Marina. 278 Marine Dr.; (503) 368-5780; wheelermarina.com. There’s gazing upon the bay from shore, and then there’s getting out into the action. Seeing wildlife and scenery up close from a kayak or boat is an amazing experience. Wheeler Marina rents single, double, touring, and touring tandem kayaks; canoes; and stand-up paddleboards. Also available are crabbing gear, motorboats, fishing licenses, bait, and tackle. Get out there! Hours vary seasonally.

where to shop

Wheeler Station Antiques. 425 Nehalem Blvd.; (503) 368-6210. Wind through this labyrinthian 10,000-square-foot building to find antiques and collectibles from over 100 vendors. Don’t worry about getting lost—the staff promises that if you do, they will come and find you. They’ll probably even help you carry out what you’ve found to buy and take home.

Wheeler Treasures. 395 Nehalem Blvd.; (503) 354-4454. Vintage items for sale in this modest shopping mall might include gifts, antiques, items styled in shabby chic, or a wide variety of arts and crafts made by local and Oregon Coast artists. Worth a walk-through—you never know what you might find to take home.

where to eat

Rising Star Cafe. 92 Rorvik St.; (503) 368-3990; risingstarcafe.net. The menu changes frequently here based on fresh, organic ingredients and the whims of the owners, who describe themselves as chameleons always willing to reinvent themselves. Rising Star’s menu might include steelhead Benedict, cioppino, or an alley omelet crammed with fresh veggies, served in this cute little blue building in the heart of Wheeler. $$.

The Roost. 495 N US 101; (503) 368-2625. Open for breakfast and lunch in a historic building downtown, this little restaurant churns out savory and sweet treats. Homemade bagels, breakfast sandwiches, great coffee, soups, and sandwiches are served by friendly people, with a view of the bay. Open Wed through Sun until 3p.m. $–$$.

Salmonberry Saloon. 380 Marine Dr.; (503) 714-1423; salmonberrysaloon.com. A view of Nehalem Bay is only part of the charm at this relatively new restaurant, where the food is excellent and there is something for the whole family. Try the smoked seafood chowder, shrimp hushpuppies, risotto, or captain’s platter. There is a great kids’ menu and a generous happy hour, as well as cocktails, beer, and wine here too. Open Wed through Sun for lunch and dinner. $$–$$$.

where to stay

Old Wheeler Hotel. 495 N US 101; (503) 368-6000; oldwheelerhotel.com. Established in 1920, the Wheeler Hotel housed guests for only a decade or so before the Depression and the fires of the Tillamook Burn closed it down. The building continued to house businesses on its lower level, but it wasn’t until the late 1990s that it was brought back to life as a hotel. Today, 8 restored rooms are all a little bit different, some with views of the bay. $$.

Wheeler on the Bay Lodge. 580 Marine Dr.; (503) 368-5858; wheeleronthebay.com. Right on Nehalem Bay with a private dock and outstanding views, Wheeler on the Bay even offers complimentary kayak use to guests who stay 2 nights. Each room is a little bit different; some rooms have a private deck and jetted spa tub. $$.