day trip 08

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image surf’s up: pacific city

pacific city

Sometimes history comes full circle. Campgrounds and lodgings to accommodate early Oregon Coast vacationers were some of Pacific City’s first business endeavors, and today the destination’s largest source of commerce is tourism. The second economic focus back in the early days of this community was fish. Salmon used to swim thick as seaweed in Nestucca Bay. A commercial cannery was built on the east side of the bay in 1886, where it thrived for many years, canning and shipping 12,000 cans of salmon a year. Fishing, logging, and eventually dairy farming became the primary occupations in the Nestucca Valley.

Today, the fishing is still pretty good, at least recreationally, and visitors swarm to this hip, friendly, and highly surfable locale. Pacific City has become known as Oregon’s surfing hub, benefiting from the excellent waves created by the point break of Cape Kiwanda. Most days, there’s plenty of surf action to leap into, or at least observe from shore. If you’re going in, bring a wetsuit—the waves are nice but the water is a frigid 40 to 50 degrees.

Pacific City is also known for its dory boats—small, shallow-draft fishing boats that run right up onto the sand instead of a dock. That means that vehicles are allowed on the beach here, with limits. While ostensibly the vehicles are on the beach to launch boats, many just drive onto the sand because they can. Set up your beach chair on the dune above the beach for all-day entertainment as the cars and boats come and go—and sometimes just get stuck in the sand.

north coast day trip 08
getting there

From Salem: Travel 44 miles northwest on OR 22. Take a slight left onto OR 130 W and travel 9.4 miles. Take a right on US 101, a left on Brooten Road, and follow the signs into Pacific City (another 4 miles from OR 22).

where to go

Moment Surf Co. 33280 Cape Kiwanda Dr.; (503) 483-1025; momentsurfco.com. Pacific City is one of the best places to surf on the Oregon Coast, and is especially good for beginners (I surfed for the first time there, and was pummeled by the waves in only the gentlest fashion). The break off Cape Kiwanda, on good days, provides a nice rolling surf. On bad days, well, kick back and watch the storm instead. For rentals and lessons, visit Moment Surf Co. This shop offers consistent open hours, fantastic surfing products and equipment, and outstanding service, including lessons. Moment pairs with various local hotels to create packages and has become the place to go around here for purchase, rental, and lessons. Open Sun through Thurs 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Fri and Sat 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Nestucca Adventures. 34650 Brooten Rd.; (503) 965-0060; nestuccaadventures.com. Offering kayak and stand-up paddleboard rentals, this outfitter is located on the Nestucca River with a marina with a dock, making it convenient to launch for all skill levels. The river is nice flatwater, but it’s just a short paddle to the mouth of the river and the ocean where the waters get more interesting, should you be feeling brave.

Pacific City Fishing. (503) 351-9019; pacificcityfishing.com. Pacific City is the only place on the Oregon Coast that is home to a large dory fleet. Visitors to Pacific City’s beach can’t miss the flat-bottomed boats and their trademark manner of taking off and landing—right through the waves onto the sand. Commercial dory fishermen have been fishing for salmon out of Pacific City since the early 1900s, and were the area’s primary fishermen in the 1960s and ’70s. Today the fleet is more modest but still impressive to watch, the salmon still taste great, and all dory fish are still caught with a hook and line. Pacific City Fishing is a licensed, beach-launched, dory fishing charter that offers ocean fishing for salmon, bottom fish, halibut, and Dungeness crab. Captain Mark Lytle leads the way! Seasonal, depending on ocean conditions, but generally Apr or May through Sept or Oct.

Twist Wine Co. 6424 Pacific Ave., Unit B; (503) 932-1744; twistwine.com. Twist Wine Co. serves Basket Case Wines, created by Chenin and Sean Carlton in 2006 in an effort to radically change the wine business, or at least one tiny corner of it. Here, it’s not about exclusivity, arrogance, elitism, or pomposity—it’s about having fun. Offering several varieties of wine, all made in the McMinnville area, Twist also is known for great beers on tap.

where to eat

Beach Wok. 6320 Pacific Ave.; (503) 483-1234; pacificcitybeachwok.com. Beach Wok features a menu of Asian-inspired cuisine, which changes frequently to incorporate fresh and local ingredients. Korean meatballs, pork pot stickers, bacon katsu skewers, and Thai curry are popular dishes. Chef/owners Tammy and Timm Lakey are veteran restaurateurs who assure diners that no MSG, peanut oil, or dairy is used, and many dishes are gluten-free. Open Fri through Tues 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. $–$$.

Ben & Jeff’s Burgers and Tacos. 33260 Cape Kiwanda Dr.; (503) 483-1026; benandjeffs.com. Attached to Moment Surf Co., this delicious destination serves burgers, tacos, burritos, fish-and-chips, beer, wine, soda, and a delicious margarita. Limited seating, or carry your meal out to the beach. On weekends, they open early and sell breakfast burritos and Bloody Marys. Open Mon and Wed through Fri 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., Sat and Sun 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. $.

Grateful Bread Restaurant Bakery. 34805 Brooten Rd.; (503) 965-7337. The stuff of legends. First known for their fresh bread and pastries, Grateful Bread is now long-famous for their great breakfasts, lunches, and pizzas. There might be a wait for a table, but you will leave this lovely, laid-back, well-lit establishment stuffed and happy. This is also a great place to buy a tie-dyed shirt. Open for breakfast and lunch daily. $–$$.

Meridian Restaurant. 33000 Cape Kiwanda Dr., at the Headlands Coastal Lodge and Spa; (503) 483-3000; headlandslodge.com/dining/meridian. This beautiful oceanfront restaurant and bar boasts massive windows with views of the beach and sea, and focuses on locally sourced farm-and ocean-to-table cuisine, prepared by executive chef Andrew Garrison and the culinary team. Mary’s Garden is Meridian’s own herb garden, named for owner Mary Jones, and grows greens to season the Northwest-inspired menu. The space is modern and fun, with a fireplace at one end and a bar overlooking the open kitchen at the other. Open daily: brunch/lunch 8 a.m. to 3 p.m.; dinner 5 to 9 p.m.; bar opens at 11 a.m. $$–$$$.

Pelican Pub & Brewery. 33180 Cape Kiwanda Dr.; (503) 965-7007; pelicanbrewing.com. Situated practically right on the beach, Pelican Pub & Brewery is a great place to hang out and watch the surf, eat great food, and drink award-winning microbrews. There is an outdoor patio open seasonally, and a large bar to perch at when the wait list for a table gets long. Awarded Champion Small Brewery at the 2014 World Beer Cup, Pelican Pub is often the center of the action in Pacific City. Open Sun through Thurs 10:30 a.m. to 10 p.m., Fri and Sat 10:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. $$.

Stimulus Coffee + Bakery. 33105 Cape Kiwanda Dr.; (503) 965-4661; stimuluscoffee.com. The bakers here start at 4 a.m. and their payoff is that they get to watch the sun rise over Haystack Rock every morning. Come in for a cup of coffee and baked breakfast treats like brioche, scones, muffins, or their signature Beach Buns, accented with hazelnuts and lemon zest salt. There are a few sandwiches and bowls available for lunch. Tip: If you’re staying at the Inn at Cape Kiwanda or Headlands Coastal Lodge, Stimulus will deliver room service. $.

image where all the people are
There was a time when Pacific City was a bit of a secret. The pretty beach town is tucked off of the highway, and to this day, isn’t an incorporated city. It took a while for this place to be discovered—but boy, has it ever been, especially in high season. I rolled into town a few years ago on a hot summer day. Temperatures had reached over 100 degrees Fahrenheit inland, and Oregonians were flocking to the shore. We arrived in town only to find one of the largest crowds I’d ever seen, anywhere. A line streamed out the door of the Cape Kiwanda Market and a two-hour wait list was on tap at Pelican Pub & Brewery. The people-watching was amazing, and the cool ocean air and views of the sea still did the trick, but peaceful it was not. If it’s no wait times and a beach to yourself that you’re after, keep turning these pages—the southern Oregon Coast is the place to go for a delightful dose of privacy and serenity.
where to stay

Cape Kiwanda RV Resort. 33305 Cape Kiwanda Dr.; (503) 965-6230; capekiwandarvresort.com. In keeping with the casual, beachfront, surfer atmosphere, many visitors to Pacific City simply bring their RV, or even a tent. In this case, the Cape Kiwanda RV Resort is the place to be. Right across from the beach and the Pelican Pub, it offers not only easy access to the surf, but also an exercise room, a heated pool and spa, and a full market stocking fresh seafood, clothing, souvenirs, espresso, and fresh-scooped Tillamook ice cream. How many RV parks can say that? The park is also an excellent place to set your kid loose on a bicycle to lap the campground, make new like-minded friends, and pick up some surfing tips. New are a few cottages and cabins to choose from should you wish to camp in luxury. $.

Cottages at Cape Kiwanda. 33000 Cape Kiwanda Dr.; (866) 571-0605; headlandslodge.com/accommodations/oceanfront-cottages. At the base of Cape Kiwanda are these 2- and 3-bedroom luxury oceanfront suites with full kitchens and awesome views overlooking the beach and the cape. Indoor soaking tubs are included, and some units are dog-friendly. These units are available for sale too, should you become so enamored you don’t want to leave. $$$.

Hart’s Camp Airstreams. 33145 Webb Park Rd.; (503) 965-7006; hartscamp.com. Why camp when you can glamp? Hart’s Camp offers vintage and new Airstream trailers equipped with a full kitchen, flat-screen TV, luxury linens, outdoor shower with living plant walls, gas grill, private fenced outdoor space, fire pit, picnic table, and bikes. Many of the Airstreams are pet-friendly too. $$.

Headlands Coastal Lodge and Spa. 33000 Cape Kiwanda Dr.; (503) 483-3000; headlandslodge.com. Headlands Coastal Lodge was a long time in the making. Owners Jeff Schons and Mary Jones came to Pacific City for a getaway in 1990 and never left. Since then, they have brought their finesse in property development to the town, founding the Pelican Pub and the Inn at Cape Kiwanda, among a host of other businesses. Headlands was their longtime dream, and since it opened its doors in 2018, stands as their masterpiece. Walk through the grand entry doors and take in the luxurious open room that contains the lobby, restaurant, and bar, with views straight through to the sea and Haystack Rock. Every one of the 33 luxury rooms at this boutique hotel has a private balcony with oceanfront views of the beach and Cape Kiwanda. Rooms are appointed with cast-iron soaking tubs, gas fireplaces, pillow-top mattresses, peekaboo views south and north, and even a bike or surfboard rack to keep your toys tucked easily out of the way.

Jeff and Mary want guests to truly take advantage of the area’s natural playground, and Adventure Coaches are on staff and on hand to help you plan your outdoor adventures. Huge maps on each floor also highlight recreation (and are just plain cool to look at). If you prefer, stay in and recharge your batteries at the spa or the workout room, which also has ocean views. Luxury linens, Northwest decor, loaner bikes, and works by regional artists make you feel like a well-tended local. The Meridian Restaurant is on-site (see separate listing in Where to Eat). $$$.

Inn at Cape Kiwanda. 33105 Cape Kiwanda Dr.; (503) 965-7001; innatcapekiwanda.com. Boasting an ocean view from every room and cozy gas fireplaces, the Inn at Cape Kiwanda is a quiet, relaxing, and romantic getaway in Pacific City. Downstairs at this multistoried hotel you’ll find restaurants and shops. From your room, views of Haystack Rock, cozy gas fireplaces, and plush pillow-top beds with feather pillows will leave you satisfied. $$–$$$.

Shorepine Vacation Rentals. 33105 Cape Kiwanda Dr.; (877) 549-2632; shorepinerentals.com. A huge variety of fully furnished vacation homes, up to 5 bedrooms in size and located throughout Pacific City, are available through this business. Plenty of choices to accommodate the most discerning beachgoers, from couples seeking solitude to family reunions of grand proportions. $$$.

Surf and Sand Inn. 35215 Brooten Rd.; (503) 965-6366; surfandsandinn.com. This inn was once a Coast Guard headquarters. Today, it is a nice inexpensive alternative to the fancier resorts. The 16-unit motor lodge doesn’t have ocean views but is conveniently located within walking distance to shopping and dining. $.