day trip 11

Newport’s location is about halfway between California and Washington, and that position translates metaphorically too. The city strikes a balance between the artsy coastal towns of the northern Oregon Coast and the working coastal towns of the southern Oregon Coast. Many Newport folks work hard at traditional hands-on jobs in the forest or sea—fishing, logging, or tending to oyster beds—but there’s also a big contingent of artistic types residing in Newport, from painters to writers. These diverse communities come together and blend their lives just fine, which is part of why Newport is known as “the friendliest town on the Oregon Coast.”

Newport got its start on oysters. A whole batch of them was discovered in Yaquina Bay in 1862, and the delicious sea delicacies began to be exported to San Francisco and beyond. Soon after, the area opened for settlement, and a thriving tourism industry popped up immediately—especially amazing given that there wasn’t even a road to Newport until 1927.

From the get-go, development in Newport centered around two distinct areas: the Bayfront and Nye Beach. These remain the city’s primary gathering places, each with its own character. Nye Beach is an artsy village, home to dining establishments, bakeries, and shops. It’s also the primary access to a long and lovely sandy shoreline. The Bayfront is a traditional coastal vacationer’s dream—galleries, saltwater taffy and ice cream vendors,

beer, fish-and-chips, and attractions abound. Don’t overlook South Beach, the location of a terrific state park, the Oregon Coast Aquarium, and Rogue Brewery.

With a population of about 10,000, Newport is the third-largest community on the Oregon Coast, and benefits from a thriving tourism economy and eclectic population.

getting there

From Salem: Take I-5 south for 31 miles to exit 228. Turn west onto OR 34 and travel 10 miles to Corvallis, where OR 34 intersects with OR 20. Continue west on OR 20 for 48 miles until you reach Newport.

where to go

native son

Rick Bartow was born and raised in Newport, and lived in this coastal town most of his life. The artist was a Vietnam veteran, a lifelong musician and songwriter, and an enrolled member of the Mad River Band of Wiyot Indians. Nationally, Bartow is considered one of the most important contributors to contemporary Native American art. His fine artwork explores dark themes in a riveting, thoughtful manner. The pinnacle of his life’s work are two monumental cedar sculptures titled We Were Always Here, commissioned by the Smithsonian’s National Museum of the American Indian. Those sit on the northwest corner of that museum overlooking the National Mall in Washington, DC—but some of Bartow’s work remains right here in his hometown. Newport City Hall has four of his works on permanent display, and the Newport Performing Arts Center has two paintings also on display. Local restaurant Arr Place displays a single work. Bartow passed away in 2016, but his life, and work, remain important to the people of his hometown. Once identified, Bartow’s unique style will catch your eye again and again as you move around Newport.

Hatfield Marine Science Center. 2030 S Marine Science Dr.; (541) 867-0126; hmsc.oregonstate.edu. The public wing of Oregon State University’s Mark O. Hatfield Marine Science Center showcases live marine animals, interactive marine science puzzles and games, and other aspects of our amazing ocean planet. Trained volunteers and a fabulous bookstore are major perks. Visitors might find an octopus in the lobby—science center staff exhibit an octopus for a few months at a time and then return it to the sea, awaiting the next donated animal from a fisherman who accidentally caught one in his net. Open year-round: 7 days a week in summer, Thurs through Mon fall through spring. Free admission, but a suggested donation of $5 per person or $20 per family is gratefully accepted.

Mariner Square. 250 SW Bay Blvd.; (541) 265-2206; marinersquare.com. These two long-time attractions reopened in spring of 2020 after a renovation to make them better than ever. Hours vary seasonally.

Ripley’s Believe it or Not! Robert Ripley captured the bizarre, which is definitely what can be found here, from shrunken heads to the magic harp. Don’t get lost for all eternity in the deep-space hall of mirrors.

Wax Works. Hundreds of sculptures, each elaborately molded and detailed from wax, in the form of Hollywood legends to sci-fi creatures. Creepy, but cool.

Newport Visual Arts Center. 777 NW Beach Dr.; (541) 265-6540; coastarts.org. The Newport Visual Arts Center, located at the historic Nye Beach Turnaround, is a municipal public art exhibition and programmatic space for art education programs. Two shows every month feature Northwest artists. Open Tues through Sun noon to 4 p.m. Free admission.

Oregon Coast Aquarium. 2820 SE Ferry Slip Rd.; (541) 867-3474; aquarium.org. A truly worthy destination, the Oregon Coast Aquarium is home to more than 15,000 marine animals in a beautiful setting. Resident species include sea otters, sea lions, octopuses, sharks, tufted puffins, and an array of tropical fish, and the grounds are gorgeously, natively landscaped with boxwood, shore pine, and wildflowers. The ocean and bay are both nearby, and exhibits offer a close-up view of what lies at their depths. Don’t miss the sea jellies—they are magical. Open every day except Christmas from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. in winter, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. in summer.

Rogue Brewery Brewers on the Bay. 2320 OSU Dr.; (541) 867-3664; rogue.com. This big gray warehouse with a red silo out front is where Rogue makes its famous, award-winning microbrews. Visit for brewery tours, lunch or dinner at the upstairs pub, and a taste from—count ’em—50 taps. There is also plenty of logo wear for sale and a panoramic view of Yaquina Bay and the marina. Open daily; hours vary. Brewery tours also daily; call for tour times.

Yaquina Head. 750 NW Lighthouse Dr.; (541) 574-3100; blm.gov/visit/yaquina-head-ona. This 100-acre Outstanding Natural Area is an absolute don’t-miss. There’s no better view of the ocean, wildlife, and the Yaquina Head Lighthouse than from this natural peninsula just north of Newport. Harbor seals, brown pelicans, auklets, and up to 300,000 common murres inhabit the rocks off the point. Whale watching is a winter and spring seasonal delight. Several trails allow for small hikes with killer views. There is a great interpretive center on-site that sheds light on the natural and human history of Yaquina Head. The wind blows powerfully and storm watching can be excellent. Yaquina Head is open daily; hours vary per season. $7 per vehicle.

where to shop

The Kite Company. 407 SW Coast Hwy.; (541) 265-2004; thekitecompany.com. This enormous retail space houses the largest kite store on the Pacific coast. Every kind of kite you could dream of can be found here, including delta kites, dragon kites, box kites, diamond kites, stunt kites, and parafoil kites. Catch the wind! Open daily; call for hours.

Peerless Puffin. 742 NW Beach Dr.; (541) 265-3153. This cute little shop right by the ocean in Nye Beach with a view of the ocean has been a mainstay for decades. Find fun gifts, cards, bath and body care items, purses, jewelry, and more.

where to eat

Arr Place. 143 SW Cliff St.; (541) 265-4240; arrplace.com. The A, R, and R are the first initials of the first names of the family of three who run this place and live above it. Their motto is “actual food touched by human hands.” The menu changes daily and the hours are unpredictable too. You might find teriyaki albacore, mushroom and leek quiche, or bread pudding on a given day’s menu—always, there’s some sort of scramble/hash option that’s a mix of whatever is fresh, available, and yummy. Whatever you choose, it will be cooked and served by the owners, and will taste delicious. Hours vary; check the sign out front. $–$$.

mo’s

As an Oregon Coast native, Mo’s Seafood and Chowder was a mainstay I never gave much thought to. Always there to offer a reliable bowl of chowder and a touch of coastal kitschy ambiance, Mo’s was never pretentious. But over the years I’ve come to see Mo’s for much more—a priceless Oregon story. Mohava Marie Niemi founded the first Mo’s on the Newport Bayfront in 1946. The “little joint on the waterfront” became a community gathering place with big enough charm to attract outsiders too, including Paul Harvey, Tom McCall, and the entire cast of Sometimes a Great Notion, when it was filmed in Newport in 1970. Director Paul Newman even gave Mo a cameo role in the film. Today, Mo’s has eight locations on the Oregon Coast. But the Newport Bayfront remains the flagship restaurant, complete with the garage-door front, added when Mo suggested the idea after a patron accidentally drove her car through the front of the building. 622 SW Bay Blvd.; (541) 265-2979; moschowder.com. Open daily 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.

The Chowder Bowl. 728 NW Beach Dr.; (541) 265-7477; newportchowderbowl.com. This Nye Beach tradition is a simple beach cafe with award-winning clam chowder, seafood, burgers, beer, wine, and lots of other goodies, like bread pudding with hard sauce. You’ll often find a line outside. Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner. $–$$.

Clearwater Restaurant. 325 SW Bay Blvd.; (541) 272-5550; clearwaterrestaurant.com. One of the Bayfront’s newer destinations, Clearwater sources fresh seafood, grain-fed meats, and sustainably harvested organic foods from local vendors. The food is great and so are the fresh-made cocktails. The view of the bay includes birds, sea lions, and the lovely arc of the Yaquina Bay Bridge. On weekends, hours expand to include breakfast; in summer, sit on the outdoor patio. Open Mon through Fri 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Sat 9 a.m. to 10 p.m., Sun 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. $$–$$$.

Kam Meng. 4424 N Coast Hwy.; (541) 574-9450; kammeng.com. Genuine Hong Kong–style cooking in a big green and yellow building on US 101. The exterior is deceiving, but the food speaks for itself. The black bean sauce, seafood hot pot, and green bean chicken are all excellent. Open Tues through Sun for lunch and dinner. $–$$.

Local Ocean. 213 SE Bay Blvd.; (541) 574-7959; localocean.net. A casually sophisticated fish market and grill, and quite possibly the source of the very best seafood on the Oregon Coast. Market-style dining is accented with a central open kitchen where chefs prepare fresh grilled seafood dishes. Diners sit near floor-to-ceiling windows with roll-up glass doors, which overlook fishing boats in the harbor and the Yaquina Bay Bridge in the distance. An upstairs addition offers more seating in a classy space with even more jaw-dropping views. The fish-and-chips are heavenly, and the crab po’boy sandwich is completely refreshing. I never visit Newport without eating at Local Ocean at least once, even if I’m not hungry. Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner. $$–$$$.

Nana’s Irish Pub. 613 NW 3rd St.; (541) 574-8787; nanasirishpub.com. Outdoors it’s light and airy, indoors dark and moody. Nana’s is the quintessential Irish pub with surprisingly excellent food. Homemade and hearty pot pies, fish-and-chips made with house beer batter, savory Reuben sandwiches, and homemade soups and salad dressings are all freshly prepared and wonderful. Naturally, there’s plenty of beer on tap and in the bottle, and, very frequently, live music. Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner. $–$$.

Ove Northwest. 749 NW 3rd St.; (541) 264-2990. One of Nye Beach’s newer additions, Ove Northwest is fine dining served with a view of the ocean. The interior is cheery, with colorful glass lighting fixtures and white linens. The menu is inspired by local foods and changes with the seasons. Depending on the day, try the Tellicherry pepper–crusted beef brisket, fresh Dungeness crab fish stew, and salted caramel panna cotta for dessert. Open for lunch Mon through Sat 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and dinner Tues through Sat 5 to 8:30 p.m. $$–$$$.

Panini Bakery. 232 NW Coast St.; (541) 265-5033. Great pizza, excellent scones, pastries that aren’t overly sweet, and one of the friendliest, happiest vibes you’ll find in Newport. The lunchtime sandwiches change daily, are excellent, and sell out quickly. You’ll find very limited seating indoors, along with a couple of outside tables for when it’s not raining. $.

Rogue Ales Public House. 748 SW Bay Blvd.; (541) 265-3188; rogue.com. If you don’t make it to the brewing facility (above in Where to Go), at least hit the brewpub on the Bay-front. Rogue Ales are made with the finest hops and barley malt, free-range coastal water, and proprietary yeast. The menu is huge and varied—but with all of those beers on tap, who needs food? This is a good place to take the family for pub food and indoor or outdoor seating. Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner. $–$$.

Sorella. 526 NW Coast St., Ste. C; (541) 265-4055; sorellanyebeach.com. The owners of the award-winning fine-dining destination Restaurant Beck in Depoe Bay created this homey Italian restaurant in Nye Beach to show off their more casual side. Plates of pizza and pasta and other custom rustic Italian fare are crowd pleasers, accompanied by a fabulous cocktail list, local beer, and wine. The 3-course Sunday supper is a locals’ favorite. $$.

where to stay

Elizabeth Oceanfront Suites. 232 SW Elizabeth St.; (541) 265-9400; elizabethoceanfrontsuites.com. The rooms here are fairly standard, but the view and location can’t be beat. Located on a bluff overlooking the magnificent Oregon Coast in the heart of Nye Beach, it’s the perfect place to stay to take in all of Newport. $$–$$$.

Fairhaven Vacation Rentals. Coast Avenue; (888) 523-4179; fairhavenvacationrentals.com. If you are traveling with a group or extended family, rent one of these classic Victorian and cottage-style homes in Nye Beach. Just a few blocks from the beach, shopping, and great restaurants; several have views, hot tubs, and outfitted kitchens. $$$.

Inn at Nye Beach. 729 NW Coast St.; (800) 480-2477; innatnyebeach.com. One of the newer properties in the area, the Inn at Nye Beach consists of 20 beautiful units, all with ocean views, balconies, and fireplaces. The inn benefits from solar-generated electricity and waste-water heat recycling. Choose from studios or 1-and 2-bedroom units, some with kitchenettes. Many units have sundecks with chairs, and stairs out front lead directly to the beach. $$–$$$.

Sylvia Beach Hotel. 267 NW Cliff St.; (541) 265-5428; sylviabeachhotel.com. Not for everyone, but those who love this place love it with a ravishingly loyal happiness. The funky four-story hotel could be described as old and creaky or full of awesome character, depending on your point of view. It’s a hotel with a theme, and the theme is books. Each room is decorated to reflect a single author. Sleep with Mark Twain, Agatha Christie, Dr. Seuss, and many more. There is no TV, no Wi-Fi, no telephones, no radio. Relax, read, or visit quietly in front of the fireplace in the common library with a spectacular ocean view. Come for romance, come for solitude, come to make new friends. A fabulous breakfast is served each morning with a view of the ocean. Tip: If you’re traveling with family or close friends, and have a solid sense of humor, reserve the Cuckoo’s Nest, named after Oregon author Ken Kesey’s famous book, One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest. This top-floor room has 4 single beds and decor reminiscent of the dorms in the state mental hospital featured in the book. $–$$$.

cobble beach

The rocky peninsula Yaquina Head holds many charms (see the listing in Where to Go), but the pièce de résistance at this outstanding natural area is Cobble Beach. Over millennia, chunks of basalt have fallen from the hillside, tossed and bashed in the surf, and morphed into hundreds of gorgeous black round rocks known as cobbles. These make up the small beach nestled out of the north wind at the base of the head. As soon as you hear the satisfying crunch of your feet working their way through thousands of lovely spherical stones, as soon as you see the way the black stones illuminate the ocean water in an entirely unique way, you’ll know you are someplace special. But the real thrill is to come. Waves arrive on the beach as they do on any beach anywhere—large or small, high or low—but as the waves recede through the basalt cobbles, the most wonderful and unusual sound results: a watery tinkling, a musical waterfall. You’ve never heard anything like it. See blm.gov/visit/yaquina-head-ona.