day trip 12

Waldport is a quiet town surrounded in the beauty of the natural world. Tucked between its bigger sisters Newport to the north and Yachats to the south, Waldport is a residential and vacation rental community that sits on Alsea Bay and along the beachfront, with a lifestyle concentrated on plenty of outdoor recreation and a peaceful aesthetic.

The first settlers on the peninsula floated downriver on the Alsea River in the late 1870s and named the town. The name stems from the German word wald for “forest” and port for the location on the bay and the sea. Logging was the primary occupation, as well as salmon fishing, and access to the ocean was key.

Today, visitors to Waldport still focus their attentions on the river and the sea. Alsea Bay is one of the most pristine estuaries on the Oregon Coast, and the beach running to the north from the bay is long and sandy. Spend a day in Waldport throwing pots out to catch crabs, digging for clams, observing some of the 400 bird species that live or pass through here, or hitting the beach for shell collecting, wave watching, or just plain relaxing.

getting there

From Salem: Travel I-5 south for 31 miles to exit 228. Turn west onto OR 34 and travel 10 miles to Corvallis, where OR 34 intersects with OR 20. Continue west on OR 20 for 48 miles

to Newport and the intersection with US 101. From Newport, continue 16 miles south on US 101 to Waldport.

where to go

Brian Booth State Park. 7 miles north of Waldport on US 101. This state park is in two sections—an oceanfront area, also known as Ona Beach, and an inland area, also known as Beaver Creek Natural Area. These beautiful forest and beach areas offer many delights. On the beach, see rounded rock formations, many of which are covered in algae, creating an interesting visual landscape. One mile east of Ona Beach and Highway 101, visit the welcome center to walk, picnic, or take in the views of the marsh from the observation deck. Over 5 miles of easy to moderate hiking trails are also in this upland trail area. Kayaking and canoeing are excellent choices for activities here too. Don’t have a kayak? Guided kayak tours on Beaver Creek are offered seasonally, and kayaks, life preservers, and paddles are provided. Preregister and launch with a park guide from Ona Beach to explore the marsh and creek. Tours run from July through Labor Day weekend. The welcome center is open Thurs through Mon.

Dock of the Bay Marina. 1245 Mill St.; (541) 563-2003; portofalsea.com. Pretty much everyone agrees that the best thing to do in Waldport is go crabbing, and that Waldport offers some of the best crabbing on the Oregon Coast. The Dungeness are plentiful here, and Dock of the Bay Marina will rent you a boat and motor to putter out into the bay and drop your (also rented) pots. They’ll even clean and cook your crab when you return during weekends and high season. You can also just crab from the dock. Bring your lawn chair, chicken parts from the grocery store for bait, a cooler of drinks and warm clothing, and make a day of it. During fall, chinook salmon make their run; Dock of the Bay can set you up with fishing gear for this annual event too.

where to shop

Caramel Dude. 310 SW US 101; (541) 264-1822; carmeldude.com. Caramel corn, nut brittles, savory popcorn, and kettle corn made in small batches right in Waldport are found at this longstanding locale. Pick up some tasty treats for the road or to take home from this little red hut on the west side of the highway.

The Green Bike Co-op. 115 SW US 101; (541) 563-7328; greenbikeco-op.org. An interesting concept offering helpful service at benefit to others, Green Bike Co-Op began as a community bike-sharing program with a fleet of 100 “green bikes” available at no cost for anyone to ride. The co-op evolved into a multiservice bike shop that offers tune-ups, rentals, repairs, loaners, sales, use of tools, and classes on bike maintenance. Local bike commuters to cyclists passing through on long bike-touring trips along Highway 101 can stop in to use equipment to service their own bikes or let the pros on-site handle repairs. Volunteers work by donation, and proceeds benefit Seashore Family Literacy Center, a local program offering tutoring and education.

Lil’ Joes General Store. 250 NW Hemlock St.; (541) 992-1282. An often-changing inventory of merchandise passes through this shop, which is more like an antiques store or thrift shop than a general store. You might leave with a piece of furniture, some jewelry, or a beachy souvenir—or all three.

Waldport Flea Market. 260 SW US 101; (541) 563-6436; waldportfleamarket.com. This classic flea market buys and sells all sorts of vintage and unusual items, including cast-iron pots and pans, Japanese floats, gold and silver, Indian head pennies, collectible books, and much more. Peruse this fun destination, open every day from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

where to eat

Flounder Inn. 180 SW US 101; (541) 563-2266. Your classic Oregon Coast tavern, but who doesn’t love a little of that from time to time? Not to mention fried halibut, bacon and potato soup, and excellent broasted chicken. There are also pool tables, a dance floor, and karaoke. The people-watching is outstanding too. Open 7 a.m. to midnight 7 days a week. $–$$.

Fresco Family Restaurant. 310 SW US 101; (541) 563-7811. A hidden gem, this place is unassuming from the street, but visitors rave about the portions, the service, and the view of the bay. Fresco serves both traditional Mexican fare and American classics. Come for a classic salty margarita, stay for the sunset. Open for lunch and dinner 7 days a week. $$.

Hilltop Cafe Bistro. 828 SW US 101; (541) 563-2750; hilltopcafebistro.com. Dungeness crab Benedict, anyone? The Hilltop Cafe Bistro is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner 7 days a week and offers what many say is the best food in town. Try the breakfast crepes, the ahi tuna salad, the Monte Cristo, or the Hilltop clam chowder. Live music Fri and Sat nights. Open every day 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 to 9 p.m. $$.

Pacific Sourdough Bakery. 740 NE Mill St.; (541) 563-3044; pacificsourdough.com. This small artisan bakery on Alsea Bay offers natural leavened sourdough breads, delicious pastries, and specialty desserts. Locally made butter and organic nuts and fruits in season make everything just a little bit more special. Only open Thurs, Fri, and Sat 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Get it while it’s hot! $.

where to stay

Cape Cod Cottages. 4150 SW US 101; (855) 861-5757; vacasa.com. Twelve units overlook the beach here a few miles south of Waldport. Highlights are fireplaces, kitchens, and lovely decks with views of the sea. Interiors are funky and charming à la the 1950s, but beach access is outstanding and the units are affordable. You can even book the entire lot of them and host a party for 48 people! $$.

worth more time

Just 5 miles north of Waldport is Seal Rock, a small unincorporated community of mostly vacation homes, some owned by Oregonians for multiple decades. Families return each year for the quiet and uncrowded beaches, but Seal Rock has a few artsy gallery gems too. Visit Ocean Beaches Glassblowing and Gallery (11175 NW US 101; 541-563-8632) to peruse stained glass, blown glass, torched glass, lampshades, vases, floats, and more, all from local glass artists. Nearly every afternoon, glassblowing demonstrations take place on-site here. It’s free entertainment, but don’t be surprised if you feel inspired to bring home a gorgeous work of art.

Another don’t-miss artisan stop is Brian McEneny Woodcarving Gallery (10751 NW US 101; 541-563-2452; woodcarvinggallery.com). McEneny has been woodcarving since the 1970s and has had a gallery in Seal Rock nearly as long. His work began with chainsaw art capturing everything from bears to cowboys, but soon marine animals captured his attention. He transforms a log or piece of driftwood into a beautiful whale, otter, seal, dolphin, or other sea animal, with a beautiful wood-grain fine finish and shapes and fluidity that are magnificently lifelike. If you can’t take it with you, consider McEneny’s coffee-table book Carving Out a Life, available at the gallery and showcasing some of his finer work.

After art shopping, grab some sushi at Yuzen Japanese Restaurant (10111 NW US 101; 541-563-4766), which boasts a two-story, full-color sushi chef painted on their building.