day trip 15

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image gateway to the dunes: reedsport, winchester bay

reedsport

The Umpqua River is the second-largest river located between the Columbia and Sacramento Rivers, and has long been a draw to humans. The Umpqua River estuary was first settled by the Siuslaw Native Americans, and later established as a camp for workers building the Southern Pacific Railroad extension south to Coos Bay. In 1912, a city was founded, named for early settler Alfred W. Reed. The Umpqua’s easy access and navigability made it a good choice for a port, and the Port of Umpqua was established in 1913.

However, the marshy ground that underlies the small city has presented challenges over the years, most notably during the famous Christmas flood of 1964. Almost every building in downtown Reedsport was destroyed or damaged, but the most interesting outcome had to do with fish. The water level reached the local fish hatchery and breached the troughs, releasing smallmouth bass into the Umpqua River. Smallmouth bass became the most populous fish in the river, much to some anglers’ delight.

Visitors still come to Reedsport for the fishing. In addition to the bass, native steelhead and salmon are found in these waters. Access to the Oregon Dunes, sightseeing, and camping also draw folks to this small city. Crabbing is good here, as is harvesting softshell clams. Reedsport isn’t the fanciest city on the Oregon Coast, but it’s full of good people and outstanding recreation.

south coast day trip 15
getting there

From Eugene: Take I-5 south 32 miles to exit 162, leading to Drain/Elkton. Follow OR 38 for another 56 miles west along the Umpqua River to Reedsport.

where to go

Dean Creek Elk Viewing Area. 48819 OR 38; blm.gov/visit/dean-creek-elk-viewing-area. For decades, a herd of 60 to 100 Roosevelt elk have made home of the pastures alongside Highway 38 east of Reedsport. The Bureau of Land Management protected the land for the elk, and added facilities for the people who stop here every day to view them. There is no camping, but restroom facilities and interpretive viewing areas make for a great pit stop, with the added benefit of wildlife watching. Keep your eyes open for the many birds that make this area home too.

Defeat River Brewery. 473 Fir St.; (541) 808-8862; defeatriverbrewery.com. Reedsport’s first craft brewery opened in 2016 as a family operation located in old town. Try the Thor CDA (Cascadian Dark Ale), the Paradox Hazy IPA, or the Pioneer Stout. There isn’t any food on-site, but the Defeat team welcomes guests to bring their own food or order out from a nearby restaurant. The copper-top bar is a great place to hang out and sip some creative local brews. Open Wed through Sat 2 to 8 p.m., Sun 2 to 6 p.m. $.

Loon Lake. 9 miles south of OR 38 on Loon Lake Road. This lake perched in the foothills above the Umpqua River offers many delights, from boating to camping to beach lounging and play. A lush forest surrounds the 2-mile-long lake, which warms nicely in the summer and provides much more comfortable swimming than the Pacific Ocean. Damage from treefall during a bad winter shut the BLM-run facilities down in 2019, but renovations were under way at press time to reopen the popular destination for 2020. The Loon Lake Lodge and RV Resort remained open, offering lodging, camping, and a deli and store. The drive to Loon Lake alone is a beauty—the journey along the Umpqua and up into the hills is one of the prettiest in the state.

Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area Visitor Center. 855 Highway Ave.; (541) 271-6000; fs.usda.gov. Learn more about the natural history of the Oregon Dunes and how to navigate them wisely and safely at this visitor center, featuring exhibits, maps, brochures, books, and gifts interpreting the dunes. During the summer, ranger-led talks are available at the Oregon Dunes Day Use Area, 11 miles north of Reedsport. Open Mon through Fri 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. and some summer Saturdays.

Umpqua Discovery Center. 409 Riverfront Way; (541) 271-4816; umpquadiscoverycenter.com. This museum features stories of the past, including the early lives of the Kuuich Indians and the pioneers who settled here later. Learn about logging, fishing, and canning and the other pursuits that kept this tidewater town churning along in the early half of the last century. A natural history exhibit interprets the beautiful and varied natural world of the area, throughout the seasons. Open 7 days a week year-round except major holidays.

image carve it
They come in droves every Father’s Day weekend from around the world, wielding chainsaws. They begin with 10-foot sections of tree, and dig in to work until they are satisfied. This is the Oregon Divisional Chainsaw Carving Championships, held mid-June every year since 2000 in downtown Reedsport, next to the Umpqua Discovery Center. Carvers compete in events that include the 90-minute quick carve and the multiday main event. The works that emerge over these few days range in style and subject, from bears to eagles to totems to fish. You might even see some knights and princesses emerge from under the sawblade. While all visitors won’t make the event itself, keep your eyes open for examples of the products of the chainsaw carving championship left behind around town. See reedsportcc.org.
where to shop

Creative Mercantile. 427 Fir Ave.; (541) 808-1900. This shop hosts various artists, artisans, and vendors, ensuring that the variety of merchandise is broad and interesting. You might find antique furniture at one space, handmade earrings at the next, and paintings at a third. Sometimes, classes and events are held here too. Always worth a browse-through when you’re in town. Open daily 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Myrtlewood Gallery. 1125 US 101; (541) 271-4222; myrtlewoodgallery.com. All of the works of art and practical products in this shop are made by local artists and woodworkers, or made right here in the workshop. The gallery also stocks raw wood, for those who want to take it away and create their own work of art. Wood slabs and lumber in the varietals of myrtlewood, maple burl, and black walnut are all often available. Open Mon through Sat 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., Sun 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Reedsport Pharmacy. 1409 US 101 S; (541) 271-3631. This destination is much more than a pharmacy, though you will definitely find aspirin and sunscreen here as well as be able to fill your prescriptions. But Reedsport Pharmacy also stocks toys, women’s fashion, and souvenir and place-based clothing like Reedsport logo wear and Oregon Ducks and OSU Beavers gear. Lotions, perfumes, greeting cards, and gifts are on hand too. Friendly local owners don’t hurt either. Closed Sun.

where to eat

Harbor Light Restaurant. 930 US 101; (541) 271-3848; harborlightrestaurant.com. For 35 years, this restaurant has been serving burgers, steaks, and seafood to hungry travelers and locals. A huge menu offers something for everyone, from elk shepherd’s pie to cedar plank salmon to a bay shrimp melt. A kids’ menu offers the usuals, and a dessert menu delivers everything from bread pudding to peanut butter pie. The cute little building on the highway is homey and comfortable. Open 7 days a week for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. $$.

Schooner Inn Cafe. 423 Riverfront Way; (541) 271-3945. Seating indoors and out with views of the Umpqua River are at this little cafe serving lunch and dinner, located next door to the Umpqua Discovery Center. Salads, chowders, hot and cold sandwiches, burgers, and fish-and-chips are on the menu and all known to be delicious. Save room for dessert—the Schooner’s signature item is called Criminal Chocolate: a brownie with vanilla ice cream topped with chocolate sauce, mandarin oranges, and whipped cream. $–$$.

Waterfront Restaurant and Lounge. 351 Riverfront Way; (541) 271-1080. This tavern on the riverfront isn’t fancy but locals rave about the burgers, pizza, calzones, and Bloody Marys. Separate spaces for the restaurant and lounge make it a family-friendly—or party-friendly—option. Closed Mon and Tues. $–$$.

winchester bay

Winchester Bay is downstream from Reedsport just a couple of miles, and sits at the spot where the Umpqua River terminates into the sea. Salmon Harbor is the name of Winchester Bay’s waterfront playground and boat dock. The harbor and the surrounding unincorporated community, set peacefully off of the highway, is a favorite retreat for many.

Established as a fur-trapping outpost long before the economic pursuits of logging, fishing, and canning of the early 1900s took over, Winchester Bay has a quiet but significant history. The Umpqua River Lighthouse was the very first built on the Oregon Coast, lit here in 1857 to help guide boats into the river. Today, the lighthouse serves as a destination more meaningful than practical. Tourism and leisurely days rule this tiny unincorporated town. Come to fish, camp, dine, or gaze at the bay.

getting there

From Reedsport: Take US 101 southwest 5 miles to Winchester Bay.

where to go

John Dellenback Dunes Trail. 5 miles south of Winchester Bay on US 101 at mile marker 222. This trail is a wonderful combination of coastal rain forest, open sand dunes, and oceanfront beach. The trailhead is near the highway, beginning in a lush forest of shore pine, alder, wax myrtle, and Sitka spruce. Choose an easy 1-mile interpretive loop hike on a good trail through rhododendrons and salal, or traverse farther to trek into the loose sand of the Oregon Dunes. It’s 2.7 miles to walk all the way through the dunes to the ocean beach, a stunning and rewarding hike, though be advised that hiking in dunes is more tiring than hiking a trail. Also be aware of the possibility of flooding in the wet season. The good news is that there aren’t any motorized vehicles allowed in this section of the dunes, so while you may hear ATVs in the distance, you won’t see any or, worse, need to dodge them on your hike. John Dellenback was a former state representative who advocated for protection of the Oregon Dunes. Pet-friendly; bring a leash. Don’t park in the adjacent Eel Creek Campground unless you have secured a campsite.

Spinreel Dune Buggy and ATV Rental. 67045 Spinreel Rd.; (541) 759-3313; ridetheoregondunes.com. Ready to get out on the dunes with some speed? Spinreel is your destination for tours or rentals of ATVs, including quads and RZRs. RZRs come with one to four seats; quads seat one. Rent for 1 to 8 hours; prices vary. Tours last 20 minutes and up. Open 7 days a week year-round. A campground next door can be home base.

image it’s alive!
The Oregon Dunes are famous for very large amounts of sand, which is essentially ground-up pieces of the coastal mountain range, eroded by time and weather and washed toward shore. Waves and wind pushed the sand back inland as far as 2.5 miles and as high as 500 feet. Sand is many things, but it isn’t always thought of as super-compatible with life. However, there is a lot more going on in the Oregon Dunes than you might think. The Oregon Dunes are home to more than 400 species. Part of that is because the dunes aren’t really all sand after all—the open hills of sand are interspersed and bordered with lush forest, small lakes, marshes, and open beaches. Here is where life is nurtured, though you’ll also see signs of the animals traversing the open dunes. Look for the tracks of martens, bears, and insects. Also found in the dunes are many birds, including the western snowy plover, which nests in open sand, as well as lots of seabirds, bald eagles, and ospreys. You might even spot a Roosevelt elk, but you probably won’t spot a coyote, bear, or cougar, although they too might call the dunes home. The one living thing you can take with you? Wild mushrooms. The forested areas around the dunes offer huge quantities of chanterelle, bolete, matsutake, and lobster mushrooms. You can collect a pound without a permit. As you explore the dunes, remember this: There is really nowhere else on earth quite like the Oregon Dunes.

Tugman State Park. 72549 US 101; (800) 551-6949; oregonstateparks.org. Camp, fish, hike, and play at this wonderful state park just off of the highway. Tugman sits on Eel Lake, which is outstanding for fishing, swimming, canoeing, sailing, and boating. Throw a line in the lake and you might come back with rainbow trout, steelhead, or salmon. Hike around the forests of spruce, cedar, fir, and alder on the south end of the lake to explore, and perhaps you’ll see ospreys, cranes, eagles, deer, and other wildlife. Camping includes tent and RV sites as well as yurts.

Umpqua River Lighthouse, Museum and State Park. 1020 Lighthouse Rd.; (541) 271-4631; umpquavalleymuseums.org. The Umpqua River Lighthouse stands out as Oregon’s first, but the structure remains distinct in additional ways. It is one of the only remaining lighthouses to which visitors can drive right up to, and at which visitors can enter and ascend stairs to the top. There is also a small museum associated with the lighthouse, next door. The original Umpqua River lighthouse, visible only as ships approached the river, was lit in 1857, but its engineers had little understanding of how dynamic and ever-changing the river mouth was. A storm and flood led to erosion that collapsed the lighthouse in 1863. In 1892, the new tower, a virtual twin to the Heceta Head Lighthouse being built simultaneously to the north between Florence and Yachats, was built 100 feet above the river, and lit in December. The volunteer-run museum interprets both the lighthouse and the adjacent operational US Coast Guard Station, and is broken into three sections: early history including Fort Umpqua; shipwrecks and transportation; and the lighthouse buildings, way of life, and the historic lens.

where to shop

Dockside Gifts. 120 Coho Point Loop; (541) 271-1210. What is it about being near the sea that makes us crave sweet treats? At this shop, they get your cravings, and provide accordingly. Fresh-made fudge is the specialty, but saltwater taffy and more are on hand too. Also peruse gifts, novelties, souvenirs, and home decor items to remind you of your days by the ocean.

where to eat

La Herradura Mexican Restaurant. 208 Bayfront Loop; (541) 361-6544. Terrific service is just the beginning here at this little local Mexican restaurant that gets a whole lot of love from guests. Large portions, fresh and tasty flavors, and delicious cocktails are also on the raves list. Try the fish tacos, the seafood chimichanga, or the chile relleno. $$.

Sourdough Bakery. 75318 US 101; (541) 234-4989. All of the breads here are sourdough, from the baguettes to the bagels. Sourdough Bakery’s signature item is the cinnamon roll, large enough to feed at least two people. They also make breakfast sandwiches, lunch sandwiches, and garlic bread. Pick up a bottle of wine, locally made jam, and other items in this shop too. $$.

where to stay

Harbor View Motel. 540 Beach Blvd.; (541) 271-3352; harborviewmotel.org. This small, friendly, and affordable motel is in the heart of Winchester Bay, with great views of the harbor (as promised). New owners took charge a few years ago and began improving each room for comfort and style. $.

Salmon Harbor RV Park & Cabins. 75325 US 101; (541) 271-2791. This RV park on the highway is just far enough away from the ocean to be out of the wind, but close enough for a stroll to the sea or lighthouse. An on-site recreation room offers a pool table, woodstove, big-screen TV, comfy seating, small library, videos, and exercise equipment. Cabins are here too; rates are affordable. $.

Winchester Bay RV Resort. 120 Marina Way; (541) 271-0287; winchesterbayresort.com. Sandwiched between the Umpqua River as it meets the sea and Salmon Harbor, the Winchester Bay RV Resort offers water views at every turn. Full-hookup sites for RVs are available, as are 2 cabins, also with views. $–$$.

worth more time

Lakeside is a small community that rests just to the east of Highway 101, about 11 miles south of Winchester Bay. About 1,500 people call Lakeside home, drawn to the lush forested area surrounding Tenmile Lake, with easy access to the dunes but out of the often-windy weather of the beach. Life in Lakeside is mostly about sand-duning, fishing, and camping. Tenmile Lake has 42 miles of shoreline and 3,000 surface acres for fishing and water sports. Looking for a pro bass tournament? This is your destination. Recreational anglers can fish for bass, steelhead, crappie, perch, and rainbow trout.

Set up camp at Osprey Point RV Resort (1505 N Lake Rd.; 541-759-2801; ospreypointrvresort.com) or North Lake RV Resort and Marina (2090 N Lake Rd.; 541-759-3515; northlakeresort.com). Grab a bite to eat at Osprey Point Pub and Pizza and More (1505 N Lake Rd.; 541-759-2801; ospreypointrvresort.com) or 8th Street Grill (235 S 8th St.; 541-510-3690; 8thstreetgrill.business.site). Stay a minute or stay a while; it’s slow-going living here.