day trip 17

Charleston is an unincorporated community of less than 1,000 that sits just inside the mouth of the Coos River, and at the entrance to Coos Bay. This working harbor with a large commercial fishing fleet has a bustling marina, with recreational and commercial fishing endeavors under way year-round. Oyster beds and clam-digging flats are nearby too, and the copious harvest of these shellfish is evidenced by large piles of shells visible as you drive through town. The overarching theme in Charleston is seafood—catch or dig your own, buy it fresh to cook yourself, or choose from a variety of vendors and restaurants to provide you with a taste of the fruits of the sea.

Charleston is gateway to some of the most breathtaking scenery on the Oregon Coast. South of the community are several beaches and the renowned Shore Acres State Park, which boasts cliffs, trails, and vistas to die for. Charleston is also a place of science and study, as the site of both the University of Oregon’s Oregon Institute of Marine Biology and the South Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve. Both offer interpretive sites and the opportunity to learn more about this uniquely beautiful place.

getting there

From Eugene: Take I-5 south 32 miles to exit 162, which leads to Drain/Elkton. Follow OR 38 for 56 miles west to Reedsport. From Reedsport, travel 24 miles south on US 101 to

North Bend. In North Bend, follow signs to OR 540 / Cape Arago Highway, which leads into Charleston. Charleston is 9 miles southwest of North Bend on OR 540 / Cape Arago Highway.

where to go

Bastendorff Beach. 2 miles south of Charleston on Cape Arago Highway. Bastendorff is a mile-long stretch of beach tucked between the jetty and bar into Coos Bay and a small cove that is accessible when the tide is out. The sandy beach is popular with surfers, kiters, sand-castle builders, and beachgoers of all kinds. On-site is a 74-site campground, open year-round. The day-use area has covered picnic areas with electricity, sinks and running water, and charcoal grills. A playground is here too, with rustic wooden forts the kids will love.

Cape Arago Loop. A scenic drive and natural and historical exploration not to be missed, the Cape Arago Loop is about 10 miles round-trip south from Charleston. Here are some of the loop’s highlights, listed in the order in which travelers will encounter them.

Sunset Bay State Park. Sunset Bay is first and foremost a lovely little beach ensconced in a concave bay surrounded by tall sea cliffs. But there is more here, including tide-pooling, hiking, and a campground for tents, RVs, and featuring some yurts for rent. Rent a kayak or SUP from South Coast Tours (southcoasttours.net) and spend a morning, an afternoon, or the whole day paddling around this mostly calm, peaceful ocean bay. Tide-pool on either end of the beach under towering cliffs. Feeling ambitious? Leave your car and hike the trail that extends south to the other scenic outposts on this tour.

Shore Acres State Park. Five acres of formal gardens are here, including a Japanese-style lily pond, rose test garden, and plots where a wide variety of flowers and evergreen shrubs grow year-round. The gardens are the legacy of the estate of Louis Simpson (see sidebar below). From the overlook, take in expansive views of the ocean as it crashes into steep, jagged cliffs. Storm watching is marvelous in the winter from here, as waves collide into sea stacks to fly toward the sky in marvelous sprays. Hike down a well-marked, short but steep trail behind the gardens to Simpson Beach, a lovely little cove surrounding turquoise waters that roll dramatically in to a deep sandy beach. Hang out here, do some tide-pooling, and relax out of the wind. During the holidays, the botanical gardens are adorned with thousands of holiday lights, and nighttime visitors soak up the gorgeous sights of illuminated trees.

Simpson Reef Overlook / Shell Island Interpretive Stop. From this overlook and small parking lot, see Shell Island and the surrounding reefs, which provide breeding and rest areas for seabirds and marine mammals. A sharp eye might reveal gray whales, northern elephant seals, harbor seals, sea lions, stellar sea lions, black oystercatchers, great blue herons, and pelagic cormorants from this spot. Bring binoculars for a spectacular view.

Cape Arago State Park. At the end of the road is this state park, with many scenic vistas and several trails to explore. Take in views of the seals and sea lions from the north trail, or descend a steep trail to a secluded beach on the south side of the cape, with more tide-pooling, beachcombing, and surfing opportunities. Follow the road as it loops around, carrying you back to the north the way you came to return to Charleston.

louis, louis

Louis Simpson came to the south coast in the early 1900s from California, sent by his wealthy father to learn the family shipping and lumber business. He did that and more, eventually buying a huge property south of Charleston and building his wife a marvelous summer estate on a spectacular site, offering amazing views of the powerful sea from the cliff. The three-story mansion, completed in 1910, had a swimming pool, ballroom, its own power plant, and marvelous botanical gardens. Simpson and his wife Lela dubbed the estate “Shore Acres.”

As with far too many mansions of its era, the first Simpson home burned down in 1921. The Simpsons rebuilt a home even grander, with 17 rooms, but the Great Depression took its toll, and in 1942 the Simpsons sold their property to the state of Oregon. Before the state could enact plans to make the site a public park, the US Army stepped in and took control of the grounds and mansion as a World War II outpost. By the time the army left, the mansion and gardens were in disrepair. The state persisted, much to all of our benefit today. Shore Acres State Park is one of Oregon’s most popular and finest destinations. Simpson’s legacy extends further than these gorgeous grounds—he also purchased the entire townsite of Yarrow (now North Bend), becoming its first mayor and booster.

Over the years, Simpson donated land for churches, hospitals, and businesses. He also worked tirelessly to bring a railroad to the area, and encouraged the construction of Highway 101. Louis Simpson died in Barview in 1949, but his imprint on the region lingers for us all.

Charleston Marine Life Center. 63466 Boat Basin Rd.; (541) 888-2581; charlestonmarinelifecenter.com. This small gem of an interpretive center, part of the University of Oregon’s Oregon Institute of Marine Biology campus, is not to be missed. Step inside and pay a small fee to discover aquaria representing different coastal ecosystems, a tide pool touch tank, whale and sea lion skeletons, underwater video from deep reefs and undersea volcanoes, and a variety of specimens. You’ll leave with a deeper appreciation of the hidden and remarkable diversity of life off the coast of Oregon, from the coastline to the deep sea. Open Wed through Sat 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Clamming and crabbing. Dungeness crab are plentiful here, and tasty too. You can toss a crab ring right into the bay from the dock in the Charleston Harbor if you wish. Clam digging can be pursued in multiple locations around the bay. Clams come in many species, including razor, gaper, butter, cockle, littleneck, soft-shell, and purple varnish. You’ll need a shellfish license, and can benefit from information, gear, bait, and/or a tour from one of these outfitters.

Basin Tackle. 63510 Kingfisher Rd.; (541) 888-3474; basintackle.net. Become a clamming expert here! Rent a bucket and clam pump, as well as rubber boots. Or, sign up for a clamming class. Bring your own shellfish license.

Davey Jones’ Locker. 91139 Cape Arago Hwy.; (541) 888-3941. Rent a crab ring or a clam gun here, but Davey Jones’ Locker is much more than a gear outfitter. Sometimes called the “cultural mecca of Charleston,” this place sells grocery items, hot foods like pizza and burritos, beer, soda, saltwater taffy, lottery tickets . . . need we go on?

Pacific Charter Services. 63480 Crossline Rd.; (541) 378-3040; pacificcharterservices.com. Prefer to hire a boat and a guide for your search for the Dungeness? Pacific Charter Services offers an ocean crabbing tour, and also takes guests out on chinook salmon and deep-water lingcod and rockfish adventures.

South Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve and Interpretive Center. 61907 Seven Devils Rd.; (541) 888-5558; oregon.gov/dsl/SS/Pages/About.aspx. Today, South Slough is known for its designation in 1974 as the first unit of the National Estuarine Research Reserve System (NERRS). Nearly 6,000 acres of the Coos estuary is a protected natural area, encompassing a mixture of open-water channels, tidal and freshwater wetlands, riparian areas, and forested uplands, safeguarded and managed for the purposes of long-term research, education, and coastal stewardship. But for much longer, and without so much science-speak, the slough has been a treasured and beloved destination for residents of the greater area. Native Americans lived and thrived here, feeding on abundant fish and shellfish. In more recent times, visitors have come here to paddle the waters, watch the wildlife, hike the trails, and take in the peace and beauty of this natural network of estuary habitats. Visit to take a hike on one of the trails, many which are great for all ability levels. Here on Oregon’s second-largest estuary, fresh and salt water meet, and the plants and wildlife of both intermingle to create a natural wonderland.

where to shop

Chuck’s Seafood. 91135 Cape Arago Hwy.; (541) 888-5525; chucksseafood.com. Step into this tidy shop for fresh, prepared, and canned seafood caught and gathered from local waters. Chuck’s Seafood also runs Coos Bay Oyster Company, and you’ll find fresh oysters here as well as whatever fishes are fresh and available. Premium salmon, tuna, sturgeon, and shrimp are available in cans to take with you back home to enjoy whenever you wish—and they also make a great gift.

Kinnee’s Gifts N Shells. 91134 Cape Arago Hwy.; (541) 888-5924. Take home a souvenir from your visit to Oregon’s Bay Area from this fun little shop. Here you’ll find T-shirts and hoodies for those windy beach days as well as a variety of shells, gifts, and jewelry to take home for yourself or a friend.

where to eat

High Tide Cafe. 1124 Cape Arago Hwy.; (541) 888-3664; hightidecafeoregon.com. Eat indoors or out on the patio overlooking the bay and South Slough at this terrific restaurant in the heart of town. Try the grilled shrimp and cheese, pesto or cheese garlic bread, award-winning clam chowder, or the seafood special of the day. Cocktails come out of the “Sand Bar,” a small on-site lounge, which also offers regional beers or wines to sip with your daily catch. $$–$$$.

Miller’s at the Cove. 63346 Boat Basin Rd.; (541) 808-2404; millersatthecove.rocks. A casual eatery located in an old church, Miller’s is a locals’ favorite for burgers, fish-and-chips, fish tacos, chili, and more. Count on a menu and atmosphere that pleases all ages—Miller’s is family-friendly, with junior and senior portions. In the winter, cozy up around the fireplace. Open daily at 11 a.m. $–$$.

Portside Restaurant & Lounge. 63383 Kingfisher Rd.; (541) 888-5544; portsidebythebay.com. Overlooking the slough feeding into the Charleston Marina, Portside offers local seafood caught daily, steak, and a Friday-night seafood buffet. Choose your own live Dungeness crab or lobster from the tanks. Live easy-listening music and karaoke happens in the lounge. The full bar features cocktails, wine, and beer, including microbrews. Open daily 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. $$–$$$.

where to stay

Bay Point Landing. 92443 Cape Arago Hwy., Coos Bay; (541) 351-9160; baypointlanding.com. A new concept and lodging destination is here along the wetlands of Coos Bay en route to Charleston. Bay Point Landing creates high-end camping options with a combination of 17 furnished cabins, Airstream trailers, and 161 RV sites to choose from. A few well-designed and attractive buildings serve as event centers, common gathering areas, restrooms, and showers. Doggie care stations, outdoor games, and other amenities are found throughout the scenic, waterfront location. It isn’t the cheapest camping you’ll find, but it might be the fanciest. $$–$$$.

Charleston Harbor Inn. 63361 Kingfisher Rd.; (541) 888-1178; charlestonharborinn.com. Private patios and balconies from each room overlook the harbor at this small but comfortable motel. Several suite sizes are available, and the largest have kitchenettes, dining tables, washing machines and dryers, and dishwashers. Daily, weekly, and monthly rates available. $–$$.

Oceanside RV Resort and Campground. 90281 Cape Arago Hwy.; (541) 888-2598; This campground and resort with an ocean view and beach access is a great option for staying in the Charleston area. Lodging includes tent and RV sites, as well as vacation cottages with full kitchens and more-rustic “beach shanties.” On-site is a crab cooking and cleaning station, a community outdoor fire pit, and showers. Visit the Oceanside Snack Shack for light meals from clam chowder to burgers. Oceanside Resort is pet-friendly. $$–$$$.