day trip 18

Bandon is renowned for several things—fire, cheese, cranberries, and golf among them. The small town is also known for breathtaking scenery, a beautiful lighthouse, and, according to some residents, a powerful and mystical spherical field of force called the Bandon Vortex.

But before the force, there was fire. The commercial downtown of Bandon burned nearly to the ground in 1936, and the blame fell largely on a plant. The town founder, Irish peer George Bennett, introduced the plant gorse from his native Ireland to the town and surrounds. Gorse makes a decent hedgerow, but the spiny, oily plant is also (it turns out) highly flammable. When a forest fire alit east of town in 1936, it moved quickly, born on gorse, directly into downtown, destroying a majority of the buildings.

Bandon rebuilt and continued to churn its economic engine along on the basis of cranberry bogs and cheesemaking, both introduced in the 1880s. Golf came later—much later. The first golf course here, designed in the Scottish links style, was installed in 1999. No one could have predicted the popularity such challenging courses on the wild Oregon Coast would engender. Now there are five golf courses, and guests travel to Bandon from all over the world for a chance to hit a ball here.

Bandon is named for Bandon, Ireland, and there remain a few Irish touches here and there throughout the town. It’s a lovely destination to wander shops, grab a bite to eat, and gaze at spectacular offshore scenery.

getting there

From Eugene: Travel I-5 south 32 miles to exit 162, which leads to Drain/Elkton. Follow OR 38 56 miles west to Reedsport. From Reedsport, travel 50 miles south on US 101 to Bandon.

where to go

Bullards Beach State Park. US 101 just north of Bandon. This large park includes a beach and campground and is a lovely family-oriented destination for day or overnight use. A campground is tucked into the trees out of the wind and has tent and RV sites as well as many yurts for rent. Explore 4.5 miles of beach, mountain bike the hard-packed sand along the surf, or stroll the ocean shore with views of the Coquille River. The historic Coquille River Lighthouse is located at the end of Bullards Beach Road, and is seasonally open to the public. The lighthouse, built in the late 1890s, is staffed from mid-May through Sept with volunteers who interpret the history of the area. Across the river is Bandon Marsh National Wildlife Refuge, home to a large variety of wildlife. Bullards Beach also offers a horse camp, biker/hiker camp, and boat launch.

Coos Boat Tours. (541) 999-6575; coosboattours.com. Hop aboard and take a 2-hour tour of the Coquille River to delve deeper into local history and scenery. The pocket tug O’Flynn can carry up to 6 passengers to tour past remnants of lumber mills and fish canneries, getting a sense of a time when boat builders and river ferries lined the banks. Tour-goers also spy many bird species, forests of spruce and myrtle, and stunning landscapes around every turn.

Coquille Point National Wildlife Refuge. West of Bandon off Portland Avenue SW. This destination is a unit of Oregon Islands National Wildlife Refuge, which comprises more than 1,800 rocks, reefs, and islands spanning the entire Oregon Coast. Locally, this section is known as Coquille Point, or Kronenberg County Park, and recognized as a very scenic outpost on the Oregon Coast. Sea stacks offshore provide homes to seabirds and marine mammals, including common murres, pigeon guillemots, tufted puffins, Brandt’s and pelagic cormorants, black oystercatchers, and western gulls, many of which can be seen from shore (bring binoculars). Gray whales are often seen from this point from Dec to Jan and Mar to May, and harbor seals are present year-round during calmer surf conditions. Stairs lead down to the beach for beachcombing and walking.

Face Rock Creamery. 680 2nd St.; (541) 347-3223; facerockcreamery.com. Founded in 2013, Face Rock Creamery has won a number of cheesemaking awards in its short history. This shop on the highway is more like a visitor center, with walls lined with media articles about Face Rock’s rise, awards, and displays about the founder, the cheesemaker, and the family that runs the dairy that supplies milk to the creamery. In this attractive, welcoming space, buy fresh curds as well as cheeses in varieties ranging from Vampire Slayer garlic cheddar to smoky cheddar, horseradish cheese, and cranberry walnut cheddar. The creamery also serves light meals, ice cream, beer, and wine. Souvenirs and gifts are on hand too.

it’s cheesy

Cheesemaking is in Bandon’s blood. The high humidity and cool evenings of the Oregon coastline make an ideal climate for supporting the lush green pastures that dairy cows feast upon. Over the past century-plus, the fertile valley of the Coquille River has been recognized as some of the richest dairy land in the country. By the late 1800s, over 10 dairy farms were making local cheeses. Bandon had nearly become synonymous with cheese, but a string of fires, including the devastating 1936 fire that destroyed much of the city, drove many cheesemakers out of business. One rebuilt and remained on the north end of town—the Bandon Cheese Factory. The factory became a Bandon icon, serving as a productive creamery and tourist destination until 2000, when it was purchased by a larger corporation, suddenly shuttered, and torn down. Locals and visitors were dismayed, but no one forgot Bandon’s cheesy legacy, and in the early 2010s, a creamery was reborn. Bandon local Brad Sinko, who grew up learning the ropes at the Bandon Cheese Factory, which was once owned by his father, returned to town to become cheesemaker for the upstart Face Rock Creamery. Today, Face Rock is known for cheesemaking excellence, and a new “factory” is open for business, and visitors, daily. Long live the cheese!

Face Rock State Scenic Viewpoint. Beach Loop Road at Face Rock Drive. Face Rock is a sea stack that rises from the sea offshore of Bandon. The image of the profile of a face gazing up to the sky is visible on the north side of the rock; from the cliff overlooking the ocean, you can easily pick out the face. This small waterfront park boasts picnic tables, restrooms, easy beach access, and views of many gorgeous landmark sea stacks, including Face Rock. There is a well-kept trail to the beach, and several rocky intertidal areas to explore at low tide.

where to shop

Misty Meadows Jams. 48053 US 101; (541) 347-2575; oregonjam.com. Some say Misty Meadows is the source of the best jams and jellies in Oregon. It is certain that this spot is a great place to find jams made using local cranberries, blueberries, and so much more, from Oregon cherry butter to loganberry jam to blackberry honey. No-sugar-added spreads, BBQ sauces, and a variety of syrups are also on hand.

about that vortex

As a child growing up on the Oregon Coast in the 1970s, I recall hearing discussion of the strange energy field called the Bandon Vortex. My mother and her friends took me on a pilgrimage to a museum and gallery celebrating the unique energy field occurring in Bandon. That museum is gone, but the legend remains. According to believers, the Bandon Vortex is a spherical field of force, half above the ground and half below sea level, caused by the intersection of two ley lines. Points of power cross here, creating a special kind of energy. Reports over the years of lights rising from the sea along these lines keep the Bandon Vortex theory alive, and some call Bandon a “city of light.” Creative energy, illumination, and knowledge are said to thrive here. Believe it or not, but it’s hard to deny that Bandon has a special appeal and great vibe.

Mother’s Natural Grocery and Deli. 975 2nd St. SE; (541) 347-4086; bandonbythesea.com/mothers. A natural food store and more, offering a variety of natural grocery items, organic produce, bulk foods, whole-grain breads, herbs, vitamins, beauty aids, gifts, books, and more. There’s also a gourmet vegetarian deli—grab some soups, salads, sandwiches, baked goodies, fresh juices, or one of their daily specials to go for your beach or bay-front picnic.

South Coast Bicycles. 805 2nd St. SE; (541) 347-1995; southcoastbicycles.com. For some, bike touring the Oregon Coast is the only way to go, and this bike shop has all the skills and tools to keep you pedaling along. New bikes, repairs, clothing, and accessories are on hand. South Coast Bikes is also an outlet for the rental of fat tire bikes, so you can partake in the latest beach-biking phenomenon.

WinterRiver Books & Gallery. 170 2nd St. SE; (541) 347-4111; winterriverbooks.com. There is more to discover here than books, although plenty of beach reads and terrific books can be found on the bookshelves. You’ll also find a unique selection of cards, jewelry, music, games, and more. Local-interest books are a specialty—look in the nonfiction section for books about Bandon’s history and natural history.

where to eat

Alloro Wine Bar. 375 2nd St. SE; (541) 347-1850; allorowinebar.com. This small but beloved wine bar is known for upscale but comfortable dining in a lovely, white-tablecloth atmosphere. Come in for award-winning Italian-inspired coastal cuisine, an extensive wine cellar, and seasonal menus including locally farmed and imported Italian specialty ingredients. Dishes range from sea scallops to duck breast to lamb osso buco. A full bar and specialty beers and wines from around the region to around the globe are on the menu, and all pastas are made in-house. Open for dinner Thurs through Mon. $$–$$$.

Bandon Brewing. 395 2nd St. SE; (541) 347-3911; bandonbrewingco.com. Located right under the entrance sign spanning the road to Old Town Bandon, Bandon Brewing is your destination for wood-fired pizza and craft beer made on the premises. Choose from a seat at the bar, an indoor table, or a spot outside on the patio where you can take in the bustle of downtown Bandon. Soups, salads, and a few sandwiches round out the menu. $$.

Tony’s Crab Shack. 155 1st St. SE; (541) 347-2875; tonyscrabshack.com. For 30 years, Tony’s Crab Shack has been serving the freshest seafood from this bright blue building near the waterfront. Crab sandwiches, grilled halibut, smoked salmon alfredo, fish tacos, and more are on the menu. Tony’s also rents tackle, rents and sells crab rings, and sells bait, and will even cook your catch for you when you return! Open for lunch and dinner 7 days a week. $$.

Wilsons Market. 90 June Ave. SE; (541) 347-3083. Looks like an ordinary market, and it is—but step inside and discover what the locals rave about as the “secret burrito place.” The deli sells all kinds of things from smoked mac and cheese to chicken sliders, but specializes in “BBQ Mexican,” including to-die-for tacos and burritos. Don’t miss the Smoky Pig. $.

where to stay

Bandon Dunes Golf Resort. 57744 Round Lake Rd.; (877) 652-2122; bandondunesgolf.com. There are golf resorts, and then there’s Bandon Dunes. Lauded as the “#1 golf resort in the country,” “on every golfer’s bucket list,” and “the greatest pure golf experience in the world,” it’s safe to say that golfers love Bandon Dunes. Guests come from around the planet to these traditional Scottish links courses that boast challenging designs and impressive views. Golfers walk (no golf carts allowed), which means they earn their fine dining and cocktailing (which is top-notch) for later. Six golf courses, 5 restaurants, a golf shop, and 5 different kinds of overnight accommodations are available at this grand luxury resort. $$$.

Bandon Inn. 355 US 101; (541) 347-4417; bandoninn.com. Located on a bluff, this inn has sweeping views of the greater Bandon area, including historic Old Town, the Coquille River, the marina, and the Pacific Ocean. Rooms are recently updated and include a complimentary shuttle service, an on-site espresso stand, and more. $$–$$$.

Bandon Wayside Motel and RV. 1175 2nd St. SE; (541) 347-3421; bandonwaysidemotelrv.com. This unique property is three things at once: small retro motel, micro RV park, and tiny campground. The owners fixed up a neglected 1949 roadside motel into this small but powerful destination, welcoming and full of fun amenities like benches, hammocks, and outdoor cabanas for gathering, smoking, and the like. Rooms are clean and thrifty, spotted with thrift store treasures. It’s likely you’ll make at least one new friend here. $–$$.

Inn at Old Town Bandon. 370 US 101; (541) 347-5900; innatoldtown.com. This modest motel is located right near Old Town and within convenient walking distance to restaurants, shops, and coffeehouses. The Inn at Old Town Bandon has just 8 rooms, each clean and comfortable. This affordable option has partial views of the harbor from the upstairs deck. $.