day trip 20

There was once gold in Gold Beach. Hundreds of placer mines were set up in the late 1800s at a beach near the mouth of the Rogue River, and the region filled with hopeful miners. As is true of the gold rush everywhere, the gold came and went, as did the miners. But the name Gold Beach remained, more people arrived, and metaphorically, many locals and visitors alike still feel like they find gold here today.

Gold Beach extends between the outlets of the Rogue River on the north end of town and Turner Creek on the south end, and the town has plenty of sandy beaches and viewpoints in between. Access to the wild and scenic Rogue River is part of the appeal, along with terrific recreation opportunities. The small town boasts great salmon fishing in the widely loved Wild and Scenic Rogue River, hiking and biking in the mountains and near the sea, windsurfing, and more.

Gold Beach is in Curry County, and there’s a saying that locals have: “There’s no hurry in Curry.” Come to this little town to slow down and take in the breezy beaches and roiling sea.

getting there

From Roseburg: Travel west 83 miles on OR 42 to the junction with US 101 at Bandon. Continue south 55 miles on US 101 to Gold Beach.

where to go

Arch Rock Brewing Co. 28779 Hunter Creek Rd.; (541) 247-0555; archrockbeer.com. Visiting this brewery is like having a beer in a friend’s garage. Located up Turner Creek on the south end of town in a small industrial park, Arch Rock Brewing Co. crafts fresh beer in what is not exactly a garage but in fact a former cabinet shop. Those beers have been voted the best on the Oregon Coast. Sip a few tasters and chat with the owner or brewer right where the magic happens. Try the State of Jefferson Porter or the Pistol River Pale, fill a growler to go, and be on your way.

Cape Sebastian State Scenic Corridor. 6 miles south of Gold Beach on US 101; oregonstateparks.org. Two elevated parking lots on this cape deliver views of the sea and shoreline north to Humbug Mountain and south to California. Hike a 1.5-mile trail through a forest of Sitka spruce to explore the lower levels of the cape. Keep an eye out for migrating gray whales as they pass by.

Curry County Historical Museum. 29419 Ellensburg Ave.; (541) 247-9396; curryhistory.com. This small but well-done museum located in the Alice Wakeman Memorial Building interprets the people and history of the area, including Native Americans, the shipping industry, the Salmon King of Oregon, the Wedderburn Quilt pioneers, the 1964 flood, and more. Open Tues through Fri 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Francis Shrader Old Growth Trail. 13 miles northwest of Gold Beach via Jerry Flat Road / OR 595 and FR 050. This 0.8-mile lightly trafficked loop trail located near Wedderburn (about a 30-minute drive from Gold Beach on a narrow, winding road) is good for all skill levels. The trail is primarily used for hiking, strolling, and nature trips and is best from June until Nov. See a beautiful forest of old-growth Port Orford cedar and Douglas fir. Dogs are allowed but must be kept on leash.

Jerry’s Jet Boats and Jerry’s Jets Museum. 29985 Harbor Way; (541) 247-4571; roguejets.com. Jerry’s Jet Boats is a Gold Beach institution, dating back to the 1950s, when three brothers installed hydro-jets in boats and became the first commercial jet boat tour company in the nation. Today, Jerry’s tours 35,000 people annually on the magnificent Rogue River. Choose from a 64-, 80-, or 104-mile trip. The longer trips venture into deep canyons and whitewater. Even if you have no intention of zooming upriver on a powerful boat, Jerry’s is worth a stop for the small but extensive museum exhibit in the back. Covering local history dating back to the time of the Native Americans, fur trappers, gold miners, and the early mail boats on the Rogue, the displays are simple but informative (and the museum is free to enter). Jerry’s also has a huge gift shop selling just about every kind of tourist souvenir you might think of.

Otter Point State Park. 4.5 miles north of Gold Beach on US 101. There are so many beautiful headlands and viewpoints along the southern stretch of the Oregon Coast, and Otter Point is one of them. Marked by unusual sandstone formations sculpted by wind and waves, Otter Point has terrific walking trails and a quiet, pretty beach to offer the outdoor aficionado. The overlook trail is short and easy at a third of a mile, and great for all ages. Look for wildflowers in the spring and swallows nesting in the rocks.

the magnificent rogue

The Rogue River lives large in the minds of many. The river begins on the slopes of Crater Lake and flows through steep canyons and rugged mountains to emerge 215 miles later on the shores of Gold Beach. Named one of the original eight rivers in the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act in 1968, and renowned for whitewater rafting, fishing, hiking, and wild adventure, a visit to the Rogue has made it onto more than one bucket list. When I was a child, my father and I did a yearly backpack trip on a portion of the 40-mile Rogue River Trail, which travels from Grave Creek to Big Bend. Those days made amazing memories. We wandered in the wild and remote woods, gazed upon a frothy whitewater river, and slept under the stars. Whether you backpack, observe the Rogue from a roadside overlook, take a half-day whitewater float through Class II water, or venture out on a multiday rafting trip, an experience on the Rogue lingers in the heart. Some say it’s the very definition of a wild river: magnificent, majestic, untamed, and a little bit rowdy.

Rogue Playhouse and Ellensburg Theater Company. 94196 Moore St.; (541) 247-4382. A variety of performing arts shows are staged at this theater over the course of a year. Visit for improv nights, radio plays, musical concerts, dramatic plays, and more. The local company pours their hearts and souls into entertaining guests at this restored theater.

Wreck of the Mary D. Hume. 29980 Harbor Way. This historic whaling vessel slowly rots in place near the Patterson Bridge over the Rogue River, just a few hundred feet from where she was originally constructed. Built in 1881 by R. D. Hume of Astoria, Oregon, the vessel was named after his wife. The boat went on to 97 years of active service, still holding the record for longest-serving vessel of the Pacific coast. In 1978, the Mary D. Hume was retired to Gold Beach, and in 1979 the ship was placed on the National Register of Historic Places. A few signs interpret her history near where she now sits, slowly sinking into the mud.

where to shop

Gold Beach Books. 29707 Ellensburg Ave.; (541) 247-2495; goldbeachbooks.com. A gigantic and delightful bookstore to explore, Gold Beach Books has both new and used books in all the genres. Peruse rare books and first editions as well as local art and forgotten lore. The small on-site cafe called Biscuit CoffeeHouse sells baked goods and coffee drinks. Open 7 days a week.

Rogue Resale. 29527 Ellensburg Ave.; (541) 425-5412. Who doesn’t love a good thrift store, especially one with upscale castoffs? Spend some time browsing the used clothing, shoes, and accessories for men, women, and children in this shop. From dresses to swimsuits, boots to vests, great finds await and all at a good price.

Rogue River Myrtlewood Gallery. 29750 Ellensburg Ave.; (541) 247-2332; roguerivermyrtlewood.com. The myrtlewood tree is only found on the southern Oregon / northern California coast. This hardwood with a brilliant wood grain in a variety of shades makes for beautiful carved, crafted, and polished items. From bowls to spoons to decorative items, you’ll find something you just need to take home. Many of the objects for sale at this gallery—including their signature lighthouses—are made right here on the premises. Open Mon through Sat 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., Sun 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

where to eat

Barnacle Bistro. 29805 Ellensburg Ave.; (541) 247-7799; barnaclebistro.com. This fun and friendly location has terrific food and great service. Located in a round building on the highway, the small space inside is packed with goodness. Grilled sandwiches are served with fresh-made ginger slaw, garlic fries, or couscous on the side. Tacos of three kinds, crab cakes, and coconut lime mussels also grace the menu. Regional beers and wines are on tap. Open Mon through Sat 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. $$.

Spinners Steak and Seafood. 29430 Ellensburg Ave.; (541) 247-5160; spinnersrestaurant.com. Gold Beach’s fine-dining destination, Spinners serves fresh seafood and choice meat cuts. Daily specials come alongside a menu featuring salads and chowders, seafood, steak, pasta, and classic American fare. Historic photographs line the walls, white tablecloths are on tables, and a bar and lounge bring back memories of years past. Open 7 days a week 4:30 to 9 p.m. $$–$$$.

where to stay

Bluebird House B+B. Bellview Lane off US 101; airbnb.com. Ever wanted to sleep in a treehouse? This is your chance. This small cabin perched on a hillside with ocean views is built around a tree. One double bed and two single beds are inside the lovely open-room wooden cabin, which has a sink and bath, a loft, and a private deck outside overlooking the ocean. $$.

Gold Beach Inn. 29346 Ellensburg Ave.; (541) 247-7091; goldbeachinn.com. A variety of lodgings are available at this oceanfront property on the south end of town. Select a standard room, ocean-view room, beach-view room, or a 2-or 3-bedroom beach home with a full kitchen and patio. Three hot tubs with ocean views, continental breakfast, and beach access all come with an overnight here too. $–$$.

Ireland’s Rustic Lodges. 29330 Ellensburg Ave.; (541) 247-7091; goldbeachinn.com. A variety of lodgings here range in decor from vintage knotty pine to a sleek and modern style. All are situated on the oceanfront with easy beach access. Wood-burning fireplaces, some rooms with ocean views, complimentary breakfast, mini-kitchens, and 3 oceanfront hot tubs round out the offerings. $–$$.

Pacific Reef Hotel and Light Show. 29362 Ellensburg Ave.; (541) 247-6658; pacificreefhotel.com. Both ocean-view and economy rooms are available at this comfortable hotel on the beach. Newly added is the Adventure Theater, an entertaining light show designed to introduce guests to the many wonders of the coast with nightly shows in season. The Chowder House provides casual breakfast, lunch, and dinner dining on-site. A short trail leads to the beach. $$.

Tu Tu’ Tun Lodge. 96550 N Bank Rogue River Rd.; (541) 247-6664; tututun.com. The Tu Tu’ Tun is one of those magical lodgings that lives in your dreams long after you’ve left the premises. Tucked along the Rogue River in a lush forest, upriver from Gold Beach and away from any distractions, this marvelous lodge is the epitome of luxury and peace. The main lodge is a grand structure with a massive rock fireplace and river views, where wine is sipped in the late afternoon and morning and evening meals are served communally. Rooms have ultra-comfortable beds, private patios, wood-burning fireplaces with a supply of seasoned Oregon wood, and coffee and chocolate on hand. Wander the expansive lawn to the riverfront to skip a few rocks, watch the boats go by, or simply kick back in a chair and relax. Stay as long as you can at this Oregon icon. Dining: May through Oct, full dining; Nov through Apr, breakfast only. $$–$$$.