day trip 21

The farthest city south on the Oregon Coast is known for redwood trees, Easter lilies, and a terrific climate. Brookings is one of the northernmost North American locations to boast a subtropical climate, and the small city can reach temperatures of 70 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit throughout the year. In the last four decades, the population has grown extensively, largely because of retirees moving to the area to enjoy the mild weather, beautiful coastline, terrific scenery, and outdoor adventures.

As with most of the coast, timber and fish were the founding industries in Brookings and its unincorporated neighbor, Harbor. But Brookings has a twist in its economic past by way of fields and fields of beautiful white Easter lilies. Over a century ago, an American soldier returned to the southern Oregon Coast from a tour in the Pacific with native Japanese lily bulbs in his suitcase. By 1920, commercial production of the bulbs in the rich coastal soil between Brookings and the Smith River in California, 12 miles to the south, was under way. To this day, the area produces about 90 percent of the world’s Easter lily bulb crop.

Brookings is also the northernmost location of the growing range of the remarkable redwood tree—the largest tree in the world, which can live for thousands of years. Sunny days, amazing flora, scenic beaches, and a thriving economy make Brookings a great place to spend a day or a weekend.

getting there

From Grants Pass: Travel US 199 southwest 73 miles to the intersection with US 197. Follow US 197 north 7 miles to US 101. Take US 101 16.2 miles north to Brookings.

where to go

Azalea Park. 640 Old County Rd.; brookingsharbororegon.com/azalea-park. Native azaleas have been growing here since long before Brookings was platted and settled. This wonderful park is a jewel in the community, with acres of azaleas and other flora, picnic areas, a band shell, a large playground for kids, a disc golf course, and softball and soccer fields. A highlight is Capella by the Sea, a gazebo building of native wood and stone with views of the Chetco River, Port of Brookings Harbor, and the Pacific Ocean. It’s a great place for events or just taking in the scenery. The park is home to many events throughout the year including live music, sporting events, and a holiday light show.

Chetco Point City Park. 901 Wharf St.; brookingsharbororegon.com/chetco-point-park. Access to this park is deceiving, as the trail begins from a parking lot at Brookings’s waste-water treatment plant. Skirt that facility on a paved trail and you’ll reach this 9-acre beach park with truly spectacular views. Climb a steep bluff over the sea for a great vantage point, or choose to explore two beaches on either side—Chetco Cove Beach on your left and Mill Beach on your right. The small, rugged beaches are great for beachcombing for shells, stones, and marine life. Out on the horizon to the south you’ll see boats in the harbor and the St. George Reef Lighthouse near Crescent City in the distance. Picnic tables, horseshoe pits, and a few other amenities are here too.

Chetco River Redwood Trail. 8.8 miles northeast of Brookings on N Bank Chetco River Road / OR 784. This 1.2-mile loop trail offers a lot of bang for the buck. The highlight is the opportunity to see several redwood trees at their northernmost location. These grand trees are up to 250 feet tall and 10 feet in diameter, and some may be as old as 800 years. The steep and rocky trail begins on the scenic Chetco River and follows a lovely stream on a short but satisfying hike through a lush forest with amazing scenery and foliage, including wildflowers and myrtlewood.

Harris Beach State Park. Harris Beach State Park Road; oregonstateparks.org. Sandy beaches are interspersed with rocky outcroppings at this pleasant beachfront state park. Take in views of sea stacks offshore as well as Bird Island, the largest island off of the Oregon Coast and a national wildlife sanctuary and breeding site for such rare birds as the tufted puffin. Visit at low tide to explore tide pools that are home to a wide variety of marine life, and keep your eyes open for sightings of gray whales on their winter and spring migrations, harbor seals, California sea lions, and seabirds. The campground has RV sites, tent sites, and yurts for rent.

on mount emily

On September 9, 1942, a Japanese floatplane was launched from a submarine offshore, flew east, and dropped incendiary bombs in the woods near Mount Emily, on a mission to start forest fires. The World War II attack fortunately caused only minimal damage. Years later, the incident would bring an opportunity for unity, forgiveness, and peace to both the people of Oregon and of Japan. The pilot, Nobuo Fujita, was invited to Brookings in 1962, where he presented the town his family’s 400-year-old samurai sword in friendship, after the Japanese government was given assurances that he would not be tried as a war criminal. When Fujita came to Oregon, he also visited the site of the bombing and planted trees along the aptly named Bombsite Trail (Bombsite Trail #1118, 12 miles east of Brookings via FR 1205 and FR 240). Brookings made Fujita an honorary citizen several days before his death, in 1997.

Samuel H. Boardman Scenic Corridor. US 101 north of Brookings for 12 miles. One scenic mile after the next comprise this scenic corridor, which stretches for 12 miles along Highway 101 and the Pacific Ocean north of Brookings. Sightseeing and exploring opportunities include access to craggy bluffs, secluded beaches, offshore rock formations, picnic areas, viewpoints, and trailheads. Some highlights not to miss are the Cape Ferrelo Viewpoint, House Rock Viewpoint, Whaleshead Beach, Natural Bridge, and Arch Rock. No matter which pullout you choose, you can’t go wrong for views and sights anywhere along this journey.

where to shop

Beach Front Gifts. 16011 Boat Basin Rd.; (541) 469-8025. This gift shop carries the usual souvenirs, nautical decor, T-shirts, and more. Stop in for an order of specialty fudge, cinnamon nuts, or saltwater taffy—or all three. You’ll need snacks for the road, after all!

The Market Place aka Pirate Headquarters. 668 Chetco Ave.; (541) 469-9753. Your destination for all things pirate, not to mention mermaid and dragon. This shop is worth the stop just to get your photo taken with more than one pirate statue on the premises. But you might just leave with a kite, a beach sign, or a jellyfish paperweight.

Pacific Ocean Harvesters. 16376 Lower Harbor Rd.; (541) 251-3643. Fresh fish right out of the sea is available here for you to take and cook yourself. The daily catch varies but might include lingcod, steelhead, salmon, albacore, rockfish, crab, and all of the above in a smoked version. Open from 10:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily, unless they run out of fish, in which case they might close up shop early.

Semi Aquatic. 654 Chetco Ave.; (503) 504-2861; artandsurf.com. Artist Spencer Reynolds brings together his two passions—the ocean and art—in the work he creates. This studio gallery features his paintings, prints, cards, and clothing, featuring themes of the Oregon Coast, surfing, the Pacific Northwest, plant life, and more. Reynolds’s beautiful, colorful, and often abstract art will captivate you. Open 11 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. every day but Sun.

where to eat

Black Trumpet Bistro and Bar. 625 Chetco Ave., Ste. 220; (541) 887-0860; blacktrumpetbistro.net. This bistro specializes in regional, fresh, and house-made ingredients. The fine-dining menu features delicious locally foraged mushrooms, seared scallops, roasted duck breast, pastas, and more. Don’t forget cheesecake for dessert! Black Trumpet also caters events. Open Mon through Sat for lunch and 7 days a week for dinner. $$–$$$.

Catalyst Seafood Restaurant and Lounge. 16182 Lower Harbor Rd.; (541) 813-2422. Both the family-owned boat and restaurant are named Catalyst. The Georgen family catches the fresh fish and cooks it up for guests at this restaurant on the harbor. Crab, tuna, and salmon are the mainstays, but the menu offers oysters, clams, and shrimp too at this casual, tasty eaterie. Open daily for lunch and dinner. $$.

Khun Thai. 925 Chetco Ave.; (541) 412-0555. Rich and flavorful Thai food is served here at this locally owned restaurant. Settle into a booth and try the crispy green beans, papaya salad, pineapple fried rice, or the holy basil. Mango sticky rice? Oh yeah—it’s here too, as is locally made craft beers. Open daily; call for hours. $$.

O’Holleran’s Steakhouse and Lounge. 1210 Chetco Ave.; (541) 469-9907. This family-run restaurant has been featuring standard steak and seafood dishes to a happy lineup of guests since the 1950s. O’Holleran’s is a gathering place for the community, sometimes featuring live music and televised sporting events. Friendly service too. Open for dinner nightly. $$–$$$.

Oxenfre Public House. 631 Chetco Ave.; (541) 813-1985; oxenpub.com. Local, fresh, and organic are the buzzwords here at this friendly pub with an international flair. Korean short ribs, a Bavarian Reuben, and fried chicken and Belgian waffles grace the menu, among other delicious and creative dishes. Happy hour from 4 to 6 p.m. weeknights and a late-night menu every day round out options. Open daily 4 p.m. to close. $$.

Pacific Sushi. 613 Chetco Ave.; (541) 251-7707; pacificsushi.com. All of the usual sushi, nigiri, and sashimi delights are here as well as grill entrees, noodle dishes, rolls, and miso soup. Specialty cocktails and desserts (wasabi cheesecake, anyone?) are delicious. Late night hours continue at the adjacent Star Lounge. Open daily 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. $$–$$$.

Sporthaven Marina Bar & Grill. 16374 Lower Harbor Rd.; (541) 469-3301. This very casual diner on the port offers fish-and-chips and other seafood dishes surrounded by a nautical ambiance. Sit outside on nice days and nosh on lunch with fresh air and a view of the harbor; a fireplace on the patio extends the dining alfresco season. $–$$.

Zola’s Pizza. 16362 Lower Harbor Rd.; (541) 412-7100; zolaspizzeria.com. Wings, salads, pasta, and all kinds of pizza pies are here for the taking. Try the Crazy Chicken (chicken, black olives, red onion, and habaneros) or the Brown Shugga (Canadian bacon, pineapple, and brown sugar). Over 100 local beers are on rotation should you choose to dine in at the restaurant, or choose Zola’s wide-ranging delivery service. Open 7 days a week 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. $$.

where to stay

Best Western Beachfront Inn. 16008 Boat Basin Rd.; (541) 469-7779; beachfrontinn.com. Deluxe accommodations at this hotel near the beach feature ocean views, beach access, private balconies, and a complimentary hot breakfast. Upgrade to a suite with a Jacuzzi hot tub and kitchen and stay at the beach that much longer. An outdoor heated pool is on-site, and the hotel is also pet-friendly. $$–$$$.

Mermaid’s Muse Bed and Breakfast. 18 Seascape Ct.; (541) 412-2949; mermaidsmusebedandbreakfast.us. The views of the sea from this beautiful cliff-top bed-and-breakfast and the beach keep people coming back. Spacious rooms, a cocktail hour at the on-site bar, a barbecue to make personal use of, a terrace for comfortable relaxation, and free use of bicycles make this place welcoming and friendly. $$–$$$.

Whaleshead Resort. 19921 Whaleshead Rd.; (541) 469-7446; whalesheadresort.com. Located 7 miles north of Brookings, perched on a hill with easy access to Whaleshead Beach, Whaleshead is a resort, destination RV park, and residential neighborhood. Book one of the many cabins sleeping 2 to 6, each a little bit different. Amenities include 2 miles of walking trails, a spa, picnic tables, communal patios and meeting spaces, and incredible views. $$–$$$.

Wild Rivers Motor Lodge. 437 Chetco Ave.; (541) 469-5361; wildriversmotorlodge.com. Comfortable and clean lodging at reasonable rates is what Wild Rivers Motor Lodge is all about. Affordable rates, pet-friendly rooms, and a fisherman’s special are available too at this destination in the heart of town. $–$$.

worth more time

Just 6 miles south of Brookings is the California border. Another 16 miles travel along US 101 and you’ll find yourself at Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park, one of several parks in the Redwood National and State Parks systems (nps.gov/redw). Redwood trees (Sequoiadendron) are the largest and tallest trees in the world, and can live for thousands of years. These trees grow mainly only here, in the coastal forests of northern California. The massive, marvelous redwood trees are the main draw, but these protected parks also shelter gorgeous beaches, rugged coastline, prairies, and oak woodlands. Five visitors centers, four campgrounds, and plenty of hiking trails are all on hand. Search for agates, hike a grassy bluff with views of the sea, choose a scenic drive, watch Roosevelt elk on parade, or hug a very large tree. The nearest city is Crescent City, California, which offers lodgings, restaurants, and more sightseeing.