COUNTRY-FRIED STEAK AND MILK GRAVY

Some folks, like those from over in Texas, call this Chicken-Fried Steak. This was one of the first dinners I learned to cook. My mama taught me how to use a wooden spoon to scrape up all the browned bits in the pan after frying—and the secret of adding evaporated milk to make the richest gravy.

Makes 6 servings

½ CUP VEGETABLE OIL, PLUS MORE AS NEEDED

CUPS ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR

1 TEASPOON SALT, PLUS MORE TO TASTE

½ TEASPOON FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER, PLUS MORE TO TASTE

CUPS MILK

SIX 4-OUNCE CUBE STEAKS OR TENDERIZED BEEF ROUND STEAKS (SEE SOUTHERN SIMPLE)

CUPS EVAPORATED MILK

1. Heat the oil in a cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Combine 1¼ cups flour with the salt and pepper in a shallow bowl. Pour ½ cup of the milk into another shallow bowl. Season both sides of the steaks with salt and pepper. Dip the meat in the milk, then dredge it in the flour.

2. Add 2 or 3 steaks to the heated skillet and fry for 5 to 6 minutes on each side, until browned. Remove the steaks to a paper towel–lined plate to drain, then season them with salt. Repeat with the remaining steaks, adding oil to the pan as needed.

3. Remove all but about 3 tablespoons oil from the skillet. Add the remaining ¼ cup flour and stir with a wooden spoon, making sure to scrape the bits of crust from the bottom of the pan. Continue to stir until the flour is browned and bubbly. Slowly whisk in the evaporated milk. Whisk until there are no lumps and the gravy starts to thicken. Then add the remaining 1¼ cups milk. Reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes, or until the gravy is thickened to your preference. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

SOUTHERN SIMPLE: When at the meat counter, look for tenderized steaks labeled round steak, a cut from the round (or leg) of the cow, which lacks marbling. It’s an inexpensive but relatively tough cut. If you do not find any that have already been “cubed” (tenderized), ask your butcher to give them a pass through his machine. The little ridges hold the coating well when the steaks are fried and give them just the right texture.