Tender or tough, pale and mild, or vibrant and pungent, all leaves are a plant's device for capturing the sunshine that it needs to begin photosynthesis. Fortunately for us, this crucial function doesn't interfere with a great many leaves being edible, tasty, nutritious, crunchy, and highly decorative.
Lettuce dates back to the third millennium B.C.E. Spinach is a comparative Johnny-come-lately on Western plates. Most sources show that it was brought to the West around the time of the Crusades, though it was used in Asia much earlier. Columbus brought the seeds of many kinds of greens to the New World, where they flourished in colonial kitchen gardens. Collards, which are native to many parts of the world, may have been brought to the New World by slaves.
Until the turn of the twentieth century, about one-third of the lettuce grown and sold in the United States was dark green or red. Fashion changed in the 1920s when iceberg lettuce was developed. At the same time, the development of the railroad made it possible for vegetables to be shipped long distances, and the sturdy iceberg was the only lettuce able to tolerate the journey. In the 1970s, lettuce, along with every other food, underwent scrutiny as tastes changed. Red-tinged European lettuces were introduced and exotic greens like arugula, corn salad, and Belgian endive began to appear in our markets. Kale, sorrel, and Swiss chard, once considered dull, became valued ingredients in the new American cuisine. In 1985, ‘Red Sails,’ the first all-red lettuce, was introduced. A few years later, ‘Bright Lights’ Swiss chard arrived on the scene with stems of vivid orange, glowing yellow, and shocking pink. Every year, new greens and rediscovered old ones appear in seed catalogs and on our plates.
Farmers, gardeners, and cooks have discovered edible leaves in many families in the botanical world. Once a plant is discovered to have tasty leaves, the plant breeders get to work. Four basic categories of lettuce have been developed: leaf lettuces that never form heads, creamy butterheads, crispheads like iceberg, and romaines. We can choose from thousands of lettuces, in a dazzling array of colors, shapes, sizes, and flavors. ‘Forellenschluss,’ an Austrian heirloom (its name means “trout's end”), is dark green speckled with burgundy; ‘Red Fire’ is as bright as its name suggests; ‘Tom Thumb’ forms a head that is small enough for a single serving. ‘Lollo Rosa’ and frisé e are frillier lettuces, enjoyed for both their decorative qualities and the texture they add to salads. Chicory, improved over the centuries, yields an array of endives and radicchios whose slight bitterness has been mellowed. Sometimes, the older varieties of a plant deserve to be rediscovered. In most recipes, greens are interchangeable; see Mix and Match on page 60.
In the Field
Most leafy greens are cool-season crops. Hot summer days cause the plants to produce seeds (which is known as bolting) and become bitter; lettuce and spinach are particularly susceptible. A notable exception is Swiss chard, which can withstand heat and humidity. The young leaves are great in salads, though they become tough as they age. Some other varieties, such as ‘New Zealand’ and ‘Malabar’ spinach, are heat lovers, but (to put it diplomatically) their taste is not universally loved. This all means that our salad bowls are often empty in the middle of summer, when we crave salads most. But farmers and breeders are working on heat-tolerant varieties (‘Sierra’ lettuce is one of the best) and growing methods, like shade covers and innovative irrigation systems, that help greens make it through summer.
As evenings get cool, our farmers have fewer fragile greens, but our CSA baskets are filled with kale and collards, which have the added advantage of tolerating frost. In fact, their taste is improved after they've gone through a few days of bitter cold. Leafy greens fall into two overlapping categories: those that are eaten raw and those that need to be cooked. Lettuce, arugula, chicories, and cresses are usually the stuff of salads, though wilted lettuce is occasionally seen and you'll find a few lettuce recipes in this chapter for those weeks when there's just too much for salad. Heavier greens, such as kale, collards, chard, and the mustards, can be eaten raw when they are very young and tender but benefit from cooking as they mature. The pungent flavor of kale and the sharpness of mustard greens are softened by cooking. Spinach does double duty; until it is very mature and tough, it's a perfect salad ingredient, but it also cooks up beautifully.
It's pretty easy to select great greens. They are perky and moist-looking, with no sign of dryness, discoloration, or damage. The major problem that occurs with leafy vegetables in the market is that their leaves become frayed and dried on the edges. Remember that anything that must be trimmed from greens or a head of lettuce is a loss, so select carefully.
Selecting the Best
After You Pick Up or Buy
Preparing Uncooked
It is important to prepare your greens for storage as soon as you get home from the CSA site or market. Even though you have selected the greens with the largest, freshest-looking leaves and checked to make sure the inner leaves are intact, they may look a little weary from travel. The crispness in greens is caused by moisture that's retained in the cells. Sometimes, this water evaporates during transit. Soaking the greens in cold water for a few minutes will often bring them back to life. However, if they still look perky, you don't have to wash your leafy greens before you put them away. Just make sure they're dry, remove any dead leaves, and store them in open plastic bags in the crisper of your refrigerator. If you have washed them, be sure to drain them well, as moisture will cause them to spoil quickly. Wrap the drained leaves in paper towels or put them in a reusable fabric crisping bag, and store them in the refrigerator. The fabric bags are available in housewares shops and can easily be made at home (see To Make a Crisping Bag, page 44).
Preparing greens for salads is easy. Tear the leaves; don't cut them with a knife, since the cut edges will quickly turn brown. Rinse your greens gently but thoroughly—no one likes sand in a salad—and dry them completely. The easiest way to dry salad greens is to leave them in a colander covered by a towel for a few hours, but that's no help when you need a salad in fifteen minutes. A salad spinner does the job quickly and efficiently, but if you don't have one, just shake the leaves in the colander, then lay them out in a single layer on paper towels and press another paper towel on top. This will take off most of the moisture, but you might still want to dry each leaf before adding it to the salad bowl (some people think that's overly fanatic—a little moisture on the lettuce leaves won't kill the salad).
Preparing Cooked
To prepare greens for cooking, rinse and drain, remove any tough stems and ribs, and cut the leaves into pieces or ribbons. The stems, particularly Swiss chard stems, can be used (in some parts of the world, the stems are used and the leaves discarded), but they need to be cooked for a few minutes more than the leaves. There are many ways to cook greens; the key is not to cook them too long. Here are some of the basics:
BRAISING is a quick way to “boil” your greens without overcooking them. Wilt the chopped greens in a large skillet with a little butter or oil. Add water or seasoned stock just to cover, and cook, covered, over low heat for 3 to 4 minutes, until the greens are tender but still slightly crisp. The more flavorful the stock, the more flavorful the greens will be.
SAUTÉING OR STIR -FRYING will tenderize and add flavor at the same time. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a heavy skillet. Add 1 or 2 finely chopped garlic cloves and sauté for a minute or two. Add about 1 pound of chopped greens and toss quickly until the leaves are coated with oil. Cook, stirring constantly, until the greens are tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Season and serve.
MICROWAVING lets you cook greens in their serving dish without added fat or liquid. Place about 1 pound of washed but not dried chopped leaves in a 3-quart microwaveproof dish. Cover tightly; cook on high for 2 minutes, stir, and cook on high for another 2 to 3 minutes, until the greens are tender. Let stand for a few minutes, then season. When blessed with an abundance of greens, put some away for the winter.
WILTING is the method that retains the most nutrients. Rinse the greens, but don't dry them. Place them in a skillet with the moisture that is still clinging to the leaves. Add a pinch of salt for each pound of greens and cook, tossing gently, over medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes. Cover and cook for another 2 to 3 minutes, until they are tender and deeper in color. Very tough or mature greens may require another minute or two longer.
Preserving Greens
Greens Are Good for You
Freezing is easy and preserves the fresh flavor of greens. Most cooking greens freeze beautifully. Prepare them as for cooking (remove the tough ends and ribs) and chop roughly. Blanch in boiling water for 2 to 3 minutes (see page 00), drain thoroughly, and pack in plastic bags or freezer containers. You can't freeze lettuce because of its high moisture content; don't even try. But do try our Hot Lettuce Soup (page 46) and Lettuce Sandwich Spread (page 61) to reduce the bounty of lettuce in your refrigerator.
The darker the green, the more nutritious the leaves. Kale, chard, beet and turnip greens, arugula, and other members of the brassica and chenopodium family contain high levels of vitamins A, C, and K, calcium, and potassium, plus phytochemicals that are thought to fight cancer. These cancer-fighting anti-oxidants are also present in lettuces, which are high in vitamin A and potassium. Purslane, a sometimes cultivated weed with thick, sour-lemon-flavored leaves, has recently been shown to contain significant amounts of vitamin E and omega-3 fatty acids, both of which help fight heart disease. Many greens also provide folic acid, magnesium, and phosphorus. All greens are low in calories and fat, unless these are added in the cooking process.
Fabric crisping bags absorb the moisture from freshly rinsed greens, protect the greens from drying out in the refrigerator, and make convenient, reusable containers for storing your greens. To make one, purchase ½ yard of 36-inch-wide unbleached muslin or other coarsely woven fabric. Make sure it is 100 percent cotton. Wash and iron the fabric. Fold the fabric in half to make an 18-inch square with the right side of the fabric outside. Sew a 3/8-inch seam along each cut edge to make a bag. Trim off any fringes. Turn the bag inside out, press the seams, and make another seam down each side enclosing the rough edges of the fabric. Turn the bag right side out. Turn down the selvage edge to make a 1½-inch hem at the open top of the bag. Starting ¼ inch up from the selvage edge, secure the end and stitch around the open end of the bag to within 1 inch of the beginning of the seam. Secure the end of the stitching. Attach a 1½-yard piece of cording to a large safety pin and insert in the opening in the hem. Work the cording through the hem and out the opening where it went in. Remove the pin, knot the two ends of the cording—and your crisping bag is done.
BRUSCHETTA WITH BRAISED GREENS
MAKES 12 BRUSCHETTA
Bruschetta and crostini are wonderful hors d'oeuvres; the terms are used interchangeably outside Italy, though crostini are usually thinner slices of bread. You'll be surprised how many people—children included—are willing to eat their greens when they are served this way.
8 tablespoons olive oil
8 garlic cloves
1 pound mixed greens (such as kale, spinach, Swiss chard, and turnip, beet, or collard greens), rinsed, drained, and coarsely chopped
3½ cups chicken or vegetable stock
½ cup dry red wine (optional)
¼ teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
Salt
1 loaf of French or Italian bread, cut into 12 (¼-inch) slices
3 tablespoons grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
Heat 4 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Finely chop 2 of the garlic cloves and sauté until they begin to color. Add the chopped greens and sauté until they begin to soften, 2 to 3 minutes. (You may have to add the leaves in two batches if your skillet is not large enough, but the leaves will quickly decrease in volume.)
Add the stock and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 20 minutes, or until most of the liquid is absorbed. If you're using the wine, add it during the last 5 minutes of the cooking time and keep stirring until most of the liquid is absorbed or evaporated. Add the red pepper flakes and salt to taste.
Meanwhile, toast the bread on both sides, brush with the remaining 4 tablespoons of oil. While the bread is toasting, cut the remaining 6 garlic cloves in half, then rub each slice with a half clove while it's still hot. When the greens are ready, transfer them to a sieve and let them drain for a minute or two. Place about 3 tablespoons of the braised greens on each slice of bread. Top with the Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, and serve immediately or broil for a minute or two to melt the cheese before serving.
(But Not All at Once)
Mix flavors and textures: Mix a spicy arugula or bitter radicchio with bland and buttery varieties. Frilly frisé es or Lollo Rosas work well with smooth spinach and oakleaf lettuce. And don't forget to blend your color palette—vivid reds are stunning against a background of pale green varieties.
Add some crunch: Some greens, like Belgian endive, can serve the purpose; but think about toasted nuts, herb-flavored croutons, matchstick-sized carrots, shredded red or green cabbage, or sliced jicama.
It doesn't all have to be raw: Sauté ed mushrooms, roasted peppers, fried oysters, grilled chicken, or leeks dress up a salad.
Boost the protein: Leafy greens contain incomplete protein, but the addition of items such as chickpeas or kidney beans, or bits of lamb, beef, poultry, or seafood, will make them a quality meal.
Cheese fits perfectly: At the very last minute, right before the dressing, add cubes of sharp Cheddar or Gorgonzola, slices or balls of soft mozzarella, or curls of Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Something sharp or salty is always good: A little diced prosciutto, capers, or pickled Vidalia onion goes a long way. Toss in a surprise: shavings of beets; chunks of pineapple, pears, or oranges; slices of sweet potato; handfuls of dried cranberries; or sunflower or pumpkin seeds.
HOT LETTUCE SOUP
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Lettuce soups were sent to us by several CSAs. It is an ideal way to use large quantities of lettuce in the height of the season. For variety, garnish this with some chopped seeded tomato and crumbled bacon and call it BLT Soup.
2 small heads Boston lettuce (about 12 ounces), rinsed and drained
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
4 cups chicken or vegetable stock
Salt and freshly milled black pepper
Thinly slice enough lettuce to make 1 cup (see Chiffonade, page 48); set aside. Coarsely chop the remaining lettuce.
Heat the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat; add the onion and sauté until it just begins to brown, about 4 minutes. Add the chopped lettuce and the stock to the saucepan. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and cook for 10 minutes.
Don't store greens in a plastic bag or other tight container until they are perfectly dry. The moisture will make them spoil quickly. If you are serving the greens right away, a little moisture won't hurt. It will only dilute the salad dressing a bit.
Don't add the dressing until just before you serve the salad.
The stronger the salad ingredients, the simpler the dressing should be. If you're adding fried clams, forget the raspberry-mustard dressing.
Leftovers are fine, but don't kill a great salad by adding something that's past its prime.
Puree the lettuce mixture, half at a time, in a food processor or blender until smooth, transferring the blended mixture to another saucepan. Add salt and pepper to taste. Bring the soup just to a boil. Divide among 4 bowls and sprinkle with the reserved shredded lettuce; serve immediately.
Frances Walker at Eatwell Farm in Winters, California, gave us these directions for making a chiffonade, or “ribbons,” from herbs, lettuces, or cooking greens: First place 4 or 5 leaves on top of one another with the stems aligned. Trim off and discard the stems or reserve for cooking. Roll the leaves tightly in either direction. With a very sharp knife or scissors, thinly slice the rolled leaves. If using basil or other fragile herbs, do it at the last moment to prevent darkening.
DANDELION SOUP
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
This traditional Russian soup comes from Marina Yasnovsky, of the Carnegie Hill/Yorkville CSA on Seventy-fourth Street in Manhattan. This is best when served hot, as the bitterness increases when it is cold.
6 cups chicken stock (if using canned broth, use low-sodium)
6 cups chopped dandelion greens, or a mix of dandelion and sorrel, or spinach (about 6 ounces)
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
Salt and freshly milled black pepper
3 hard-cooked large eggs, chopped
3 Kirby cucumbers (or the equivalent), peeled and chopped
1 large potato, peeled, cooked, and coarsely chopped (optional)
3 green onions, chopped
Sour cream or plain yogurt
Chopped fresh dill or parsley (optional)
Bring the stock to a boil in a large saucepan. Add the greens, garlic, and salt and pepper to taste. Reduce the heat and cook until the greens are tender.
Meanwhile, to serve hot, divide the chopped egg, cucumbers, potato, if using, and green onions among 6 warm soup bowls.
When the greens are cooked, divide the soup among the bowls and garnish with sour cream or yogurt, and dill or parsley, if using.
Or, cool the soup to room temperature; assemble and serve warm within about a half hour.
CSAs frequently have a bountiful harvest of cooking greens, and members share the news when they discover good ways to prepare them. Robyn Harrison and Tom Hayden of New Mexico's Rhubarb Ranch recommend this traditional recipe from The Food of Portugal, by Jean Anderson. They leave out the sausage for a vegetarian version. They suggest adding an extra teaspoon of salt and your favorite herbs and spices. A combination of cumin and coriander is a good choice.
1 large yellow onion, peeled and minced fine
1 large garlic clove, peeled and minced
4 tablespoons olive oil
6 large Maine or Eastern potatoes, peeled and sliced thin
6 ounces chourico, chorizo, pepperoni, or other dry garlicky sausage, sliced thin
2½ teaspoons salt, more or less
¼ teaspoon freshly milled black pepper
1 pound collard, kale, or turnip greens, washed, trimmed of coarse stems and veins, rolled crosswise, then sliced filament-thin (see Chiffonade, above)
GREEN SOUP (CALDO VERDE)
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
Sauté the onion and garlic in 3 tablespoons of the oil in a large, heavy saucepan for 2 to 3 minutes over moderate heat until they begin to color and turn glassy. Do not brown or they will turn bitter. Add the potatoes and sauté, stirring constantly, 2 to 3 minutes, until they begin to color also. Add 2 quarts cold water, cover, and boil gently over moderate heat 20 to 25 minutes, until the potatoes are mushy. Meanwhile, fry the sausage in a medium-sized heavy skillet over low heat for 10 to 12 minutes, until most of the fat has cooked out; drain well and reserve.
When the potatoes are soft, remove the pan from the stove and with a potato masher, mash the potatoes right in the pan in the soup mixture. Add the sausage, salt, and pepper, return to moderate heat, cover, and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the collards and simmer uncovered for 5 minutes, until tender and the color of jade. Mix in the remaining tablespoon of olive oil, and taste the soup for salt and pepper. Ladle into large soup plates and serve as a main course accompanied by chunks of Broa (a crusty, dark Portuguese bread).
Early in the season, this salad is delicious when made from baby heirloom lettuce. Later on, you can enjoy it with broken leaves of mature romaine, Boston, or Bibb. It comes to us from Sunflower Fields Family Farm, in Postville, Iowa. Solveig Hanson, an apprentice at the farm, says, “We pick lettuces early in the morning—between six-thirty and eight-thirty—because it's cool then. If it's real hot when they're picked or if they get hot after they're picked, their life is shortened.” The juice lost in slicing oranges is often wasted; here it forms the basis of the salad dressing.
3 large oranges, peeled and white membrane removed
8 radishes, thinly sliced
2 green onions, thinly sliced
6 cups baby heirloom lettuce leaves or torn mature lettuce leaves (about 6 ounces)
½ cup crumbled goat cheese or feta cheese
¼ cup sunflower kernels or coarsely chopped walnuts, toasted
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
Salt and freshly milled black pepper
LETTUCE-AND-ORANGE SALAD
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
Quarter and slice the oranges over a medium bowl, allowing both the slices and the juice to fall into the bowl. Remove membrane, if desired. Stir the radishes and green onions into the orange pieces.
Arrange the lettuce on a large serving platter. Transfer the orange mixture to the lettuce using a slotted spoon; reserve the orange juice. Sprinkle the salad with the cheese and sunflower kernels.
Whisk together ½ cup of the orange juice from the bowl, the oil, and the vinegar. Add salt and pepper to taste. Drizzle over the salad and serve.
This recipe comes from Terra Brockman, who works with her brother Henry of Henry's Farm, Congerville, Illinois. Wild (also known as rustic) arugula is an Italian heirloom form that's rarely available in supermarkets, but it's worth your while to look for it. It has the same peppery taste as conventional arugula, but its flavor is richer and more complex and its deeply serrated leaves add texture to salads and sandwiches. You can use cultivated arugula in this salad if you can't find the wild. Terra recommends using ParmigianoReggiano cheese for the best flavor.
8 ounces wild arugula (about 8 cups loosely packed), rinsed and drained
8 ounces white mushrooms, thinly sliced (see Note)
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
½ teaspoon Dijon mustard
Salt and freshly milled black pepper
1 (6-ounce) piece Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, at room temperature
WILD ARUGULA SALAD WITH MUSHROOMS
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
Coarsely chop the arugula, reserving the spicy yellow flowers for garnish. Combine the chopped arugula and sliced mushrooms in a large bowl.
Whisk together the oil, vinegar, and mustard. Add salt and pepper to taste. Drizzle the mixture over the salad and toss to coat well. Shave thin strips of the cheese with a cheese shaver or vegetable peeler. Reserve your best strips for garnish; throw the rest into the salad and toss lightly.
Divide the salad among 6 serving plates and garnish with the reserved strips of cheese and the arugula flowers. Serve at room temperature.
NOTE: You may substitute porcini or other specialty mushrooms for the white mushrooms, but sauté them until tender first and let cool to room temperature.
Wholesome, fresh vegetables don't need a lot of fancy, processed ingredients. A lot of the products you'll find on gourmet market shelves are used more to make an impression than to make a great meal. But certain items do make a difference, and you'll find that if you use just a little of the best, the whole dish will taste better:
Oil: Extra-virgin olive oil and canola oil carry flavor better and never add an “off” taste
Vinegar: Balsamic vinegar adds rich flavor whenever it is used. Try other vinegars for special tastes; remember that just a splash is all you need.
Cheese: There's a world of difference between genuine Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and the stuff in supermarket containers. This is one product where it always pays to go for the name brand.
FARM SALAD WITH ESCAROLE, WATERCRESS, PEARS, HAZELNUTS, AND BLUE CHEESE
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
Executive chef Christopher Blobaum of the Surf and Sand Resort in Laguna Beach, California, told us, “We are very fortunate to have many small and large farms near by. We make this recipe with local, seasonal, organic produce.” The extra time required to make the Roasted Pear Vinaigrette is well spent.
1/3 cup blanched whole hazelnuts (or use hazelnuts with skins)
Roasted Pear Vinaigrette (recipe follows)
1 head escarole, rinsed, drained, and leaves torn
2 bunches watercress, rinsed, drained, and trimmed of tough stems
4 Bosc pears, cored and sliced
Sea salt and freshly milled black pepper
¾ cup crumbled blue cheese
Preheat the oven to 350° F. Spread the hazelnuts on a rimmed baking sheet and roast until they begin to turn golden, 8 to 10 minutes. Set aside to cool slightly.
Prepare the vinaigrette; measure 3/4 cup into a large bowl. Refrigerate the remaining vinaigrette for another use. Add the escarole, watercress, pears, hazelnuts, and sea salt and pepper to taste to the vinaigrette in the bowl and toss to combine.
Divide the escarole mixture among 6 to 8 chilled serving plates and top with the crumbled blue cheese.
ROASTED PEAR VINAIGRETTE: Preheat the oven to 375° F. Peel, quarter, and core 3 Bosc pears. Arrange the pears in a roasting pan; sprinkle with 1½ teaspoons sugar, and salt and freshly milled black pepper to taste. Roast for about twenty minutes, or until tender. Remove the pears to a blender. Add ½ cup pear or cider vinegar and ¼ cup apple juice to the roasting pan and stir to loosen the drippings from the pan. Add the mixture to the pears in the blender along with 1½ teaspoons honey, and vanilla extract to taste; set aside until cool. Blend until the pears are smooth, then, with the blender running, gradually add 1 cup light olive oil and ½ cup hazelnut oil. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Makes about 3 cups.
What's Mesclun?
Mesclun originated centuries ago around Nice in the south of France. The word “mesclun” (pronounced “mes-cloon”—although we are always amused when a farmers'-market customer asks for a bag of that terrific “mescaline”) derives from the Nicoise dialect word “mesclumo,” meaning “a mixture.” The traditional mixture has a bitter, spicy edge and includes various kinds of wild and cultivated endive (chicory), lamb's lettuce, and dandelion. Arugula, groundsel, chervil, purslane, and leaf lettuces also take part in the mix. In typical Yankee fashion, however, Americans threw out the traditional mix and redefined mesclun as any mix of leafy greens. This open-admissions policy—and the packaging and cheapening of ingredients by produce giants—leaves some yearning for the French original.…You can make your own mesclun mix, fancy or plain, spicy or mild, by buying the ingredients separately. Or, you can put your salad bowl in the capable hands of a good farmers’ market or CSA farmer, who each week of the year picks the mix of leafy greens that are perfectly in season. A typical farmers'-market mesclun in autumn may include the four types of lettuces (Bibb, romaine, oakleaf, and crisphead), arugula, endive, red and green salad mustard, fennel, escarole, baby spinach, and chard, and tender wild greens such as lamb's-quarter and purslane. Fancy mesclun mixes also contain edible flowers such as bachelor's buttons, calendulas, chive blossoms, marigolds, nasturtiums, and violets.
—from Terra Brockman, Henry's Farm, Congerville, Illinois
Blue Cheese: Combine ½ cup olive oil,¼ cup vinegar,1/3 cup crumbled blue cheese, 2 tablespoons chopped fresh mild-flavored herbs,½ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce,¼ teaspoon salt, ¼ teaspoon sugar,1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper, and 1 to 2 drops hot red pepper sauce in a screw-top jar. Shake well and store in the refrigerator. Bring to room temperature to serve. Makes 1 cup.
Buttermilk: Combine 1 cup buttermilk,¼ cup grated cucumber, 2 tablespoons finely chopped green onion, 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard, 1 tablespoon chopped fresh herbs, 2 teaspoons lemon juice,¼ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper in a screw-top jar. Shake well and store in the refrigerator. Makes 11/3 cups.
Cilantro-Lime: Whisk together ½ cup olive oil,¼ cup white balsamic vinegar, 2 tablespoons water, 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro, 2 tablespoons lime juice,¼ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon sugar in a small bowl. Store in the refrigerator. Makes 1 cup.
Creamy: Combine ¼ cup vinegar,¼ cup sugar, 2 tablespoons light cream, 2 teaspoons fresh chives or other herb, salt and freshly milled black pepper in a small bowl; whisk vigorously until the sugar dissolves. Store in the refrigerator. Makes ½ cup.
Hoisin: Combine ½ cup olive oil,¼ cup hoisin sauce,¼ cup rice wine vinegar, 1 tablespoon finely chopped peeled fresh ginger, 1 teaspoon grated orange peel, and ¼ teaspoon hot red pepper flakes in a screw-top jar. Shake well and store in the refrigerator. Bring to room temperature to serve. Makes 1 cup.
Honey-Sesame-Mustard: Whisk together 1/3 cup vegetable oil, 2 tablespoons cider vinegar or rice wine vinegar, 2 tablespoons honey, 2 tablespoons hot mustard, 2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds, 1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic or garlic scape, and salt to taste in a small bowl. Store in the refrigerator. Makes 2/3 cup.
Hot Peanut: Whisk together ¼ cup peanut butter, 3 tablespoons water, 2 tablespoons cider vinegar, 1 tablespoon honey, 1 tablespoon soy sauce, 2 teaspoons sesame oil, and hot red pepper flakes to taste in a small bowl until smooth. Add salt to taste. Store in the refrigerator. Makes 2/3 cup.
Mango: Puree 1 medium mango, sliced (about 1 cup), with 1 tablespoon vegetable oil, 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar, some chopped garlic, and salt and pepper to taste in a food processor. Add herbs and spices to taste. Try this with apricots and peaches as well. Store in the refrigerator. Makes 1 cup.
Orange-Ginger: Combine 3 tablespoons rice wine vinegar, 2 tablespoons orange juice concentrate, 1 tablespoon diced peeled fresh ginger, 1 tablespoon sesame oil, 2 teaspoons soy sauce or to taste, 2 teaspoons finely chopped garlic or garlic scape, and hot red pepper flakes to taste in a blender. Blend for about 1 minute, then add ¾ cup vegetable oil in a steady stream, blending until the mixture has emulsified. Store in the refrigerator. Makes 1 cup.
Tahini: Whisk together ¼ cup tahini,¼ cup water, 2 tablespoons chopped green onion, 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley, 2 teaspoons chopped garlic scape,¼ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon freshly milled black pepper in a small bowl until combined. Whisk in 2 tablespoons cider vinegar or white wine vinegar and 1 tablespoon lemon juice until smooth. Sprinkle with paprika or cayenne pepper. Store in the refrigerator. Makes ¾ cup.
Tomato: Combine 1 cup tomato juice,¼ cup lemon juice or cider vinegar, 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives and/or garlic scape, 1 teaspoon chopped fresh parsley or other herb,¼ teaspoon salt, and 1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper in a screw-top jar. Shake well and store in the refrigerator. Use within several days. Makes 1¼ cups.
Vinaigrette: Add 1 halved garlic clove to 1/3 cup vinegar (balsamic or wine). Let it stand for at least 1 but not more than 24 hours. Remove the garlic; add 2/3 cup olive oil and season to taste with salt, freshly milled black pepper, and Worcestershire sauce or herbs. Store in the refrigerator. Bring to room temperature to serve. Makes 1 cup.
This unusual recipe from Mariquita Farms in Watsonville, California, reminded us to tell you about our “Save the Stems” campaign. Most green leafy vegetable stems are just as delicious as the leaves and can be included in any dish you are making. All you have to do is start them in the cooking water two to three minutes before you add the leaves and they will be tender when the leaves are ready. Mariquita Farms is run by Julia Wiley, who lists her duties as Chief Executive Officer, E-mail Elf, Logistical Ultra-Babe, and Minister of Motherhood; and Andy Griffin, who has twenty years’ experience in organic farming. Andy is also a prolific writer and chronicles his farm experiences in a beautiful magazine called Roots (see Resources for how to order). You might want to double the recipe for more generous servings.
Swiss chard stems from 2 large bunches, cut into 2-inch pieces (about 3 cups)
3 shallots, sliced
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
¼ cup olive oil
Salt and freshly milled black pepper
1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg
2/3 cup heavy cream
1/3 cup dried bread crumbs
1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese
SWISS CHARD STEM GRATIN
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Preheat the oven to 375° F. Butter a small casserole. In a large skillet, sauté the Swiss chard stems, shallots, and garlic in the oil over medium-high heat for about 2 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste and the nutmeg; cook until the vegetables are tender, about another 4 minutes.
Transfer the vegetables to the buttered casserole. Drizzle with the cream. Combine the bread crumbs and cheese and sprinkle over the top. Bake for about 15 minutes, or until the crumb mixture begins to brown. Serve immediately.
This recipe was given to us by naturalist, author, and Chefs Collaborative supporter “Wildman” Steve Brill from his latest book,The Wild Vegetarian Cookbook. Brill leads public wild food and ecology tours throughout the greater New York area every weekend, and works with school classes and children's groups during the week. He's the author of several books but is best known for having been arrested and handcuffed by undercover park rangers for eating a dandelion in Central Park.
He told us, “Like the curries of India, Columbo is a traditional blend of herbs. Originating in Sri Lanka and Senegal, it migrated to the French Antilles islands of Martinique and Guadeloupe. A Haitian friend described it to me, I applied it to wild dandelions in America, and I'm offering it to you. Simple!”
DANDELION COLUMBO
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
6 cups dandelion leaves (picked in early spring, long before they flower, or late fall, when new growth appears—the seasons when they're at their best) (about 6 ounces)
1 medium cauliflower, sliced
6 garlic cloves, chopped
2 small hot peppers, seeds and ribs removed, or ¼ teaspoon ground red pepper, or to taste
2 tablespoons peanut oil
1 cup unsweetened coconut milk
½ cup silken tofu
1½ tablespoons mellow (light-colored) miso
½ teaspoon rum extract, or
2 tablespoons rum or any wild wine or sherry (optional)
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon dry mustard
Sauté the dandelions, cauliflower, garlic, and hot peppers in the peanut oil for 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, puree the coconut milk, tofu,¼ cup water, miso, rum extract, if using, coriander, turmeric, and mustard in a blender.
Mix the puree into the sauté ed ingredients, bring to a boil, reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook another 10 minutes, or until the cauliflower is tender.
Wouldn't it be nice if kids loved greens? Some CSA members report that these simple tricks turn tots into greens lovers.
Start early. Kate, who has been a member of several CSAs, placed dabs of creamed spinach on the trays of her babies’ high chairs and let them taste; she sometimes added a bit of brown sugar to the mix.
Put greens in unexpected places. Annie, a member from Miami, suggests that burgers are a good hiding place'she places creamy greens between the roll and the meat. She also throws a few tablespoons of chopped greens into fruit smoothies that she makes in her blender for breakfast.
Most kids love making pizza (see recipe, page 37) and adding toppings. If you supply some greens during the process, they'll often be used for their decorative properties, then eaten with pride.
Involve your kids in the kitchen whenever possible. Look for recipes that involve tearing greens, mixing, and pouring'even toddlers can handle these tasks.
SPINACH MATZO BALLS
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Here's a recipe that CSA member Shelly Katz Beiderman of Manhattan makes with her daughter, Maille.
Mix the eggs, the oil, 2 tablespoons water, the salt, and pepper in a large bowl until blended. Add the matzo meal and stir until it is well mixed; the mixture should be gooey rather than dry, but if it is still powdery, add an additional tablespoon or two of water until all the matzo meal is incorporated. (If the spinach is not thoroughly drained, you will need to add less water.) Incorporate the spinach and mix thoroughly. Refrigerate for 2 to 4 hours.
Thirty to 50 minutes before serving, bring a big pot of water to a full boil. Using an ice cream scoop, two spoons, or your hands, form the matzo mixture into large balls and drop into the water. Cook for 30 to 50 minutes, depending on how big they are. The matzo balls freeze beautifully.
ORGANIC WARM GREENS WITH BALSAMIC VINAIGRETTE AND CHÈVRE
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Chef Bev Shaffer, cooking school director of the Mustard Seed Market & Café in Akron and Solon, Ohio, contributed this recipe. She says, “This popular recipe from my Produce 101 classes is a delicious way to ‘green up’ organic Lacinato kale, which has a mild, tender flavor. This dish is a favorite with my culinary students.”
¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil
½ cup balsamic vinegar
2 garlic cloves, pressed
2 teaspoons honey
½ teaspoon paprika
1½ cups sliced white or cremini mushrooms
3 cups Lacinato (Tuscan) kale, rinsed, drained, and torn into pieces (about 3 ounces)
2 cups mixed organic baby greens Salt and freshly milled black pepper
8 to 12 ounces firm chèvre (goat cheese), thinly sliced or crumbled
¼ cup pistachios, toasted
Whisk together the oil, vinegar, garlic, honey, and paprika in a small bowl. Bring ¼ cup of the mixture to a boil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the mushrooms and cook for 2 minutes. Add the kale and cook, stirring once or twice, just until it begins to wilt.
Toss the hot mixture with the baby greens in a large bowl; add salt and pepper to taste. Divide the greens among 4 serving plates; top with the chèvre and toasted pistachios. Serve immediately; whisk the remaining balsamic vinaigrette and pass to drizzle over the greens.
Greens are versatile ingredients. If you don't have what the recipe calls for, there is almost always something else that can take its place. Here are some flavor categories to keep in mind when selecting an alternate green for salads or cooking. When including the sturdier cooking greens in salads, select only the baby leaves.
Mild and Sweet: Bibb, Boston, green-leaf, iceberg, màche, oakleaf, red-leaf, and romaine lettuces
Mildly Flavorful: Beet greens, parsley, spinach, and Swiss chard
Spicy or Peppery: Arugula, collards, kale, mustard, turnip greens, dandelion greens, mizuna, and watercress
Slightly Bitter: Belgian endive, chicory, curly endive, escarole, frisé e, radicchio, and tatsoi
Aromatic: Basil, cilantro, and mint
Unique: Purslane (lemony) and sorrel (sour)
MIXED GREENS, MIDEAST STYLE
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
This versatile recipe was submitted by Sue Burnham of the Live Earth Farm CSA, Watsonville, California. She says, “This is a very forgiving recipe. I have used all dried herbs when fresh were not at hand. I have used more or less greens and tomatoes. I have used this recipe over rice, in calzone with pine nuts and feta cheese, and on top of pizza. It also freezes well.”
8 ounces mixed cooking greens (about 8 cups loosely packed), rinsed and drained
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
8 to 10 garlic cloves, finely chopped
¼ cup chopped fresh parsley
¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro
2 tablespoons paprika
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1/8 to ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional)
2 cups chopped canned tomatoes, with their juice Salt
There are not many farmers’ markets where we have bags of mesclun left over at the end of the day. But there was one Saturday when the rain was coming down so hard that all but the most devoted (or demented) customers stayed home. So I ended up taking home a dozen bags and soon realized I wasn't going to make a dent in them even if all I ate was salad. One evening, I just threw two bags of it into the food processor with a little oil and vinegar, spread the mixture on a slice of hearty wheat bread, and, voilAn incredible sandwich and a way to use many bags of lettuce, watercress, or arugula. Here's how:
Rinse 8 ounces mesclun (about 8 cups loosely packed). Dry it thoroughly in a salad spinner or spread the leaves on a towel and gently roll it up. Put 1 to 2 garlic cloves and 1 hot Thai pepper, if desired, in the food processor and chop fine. Add the greens, 3 tablespoons olive oil, 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar, and salt and freshly milled black pepper to taste. Pulse until the leaves are chopped but not liquefied. Spread the mixture thickly on a sandwich of your choice. It works well alone or with a slab of fresh mozzarella, sharp Cheddar, or Jarlsberg. For more flavor, add fresh herbs (cilantro is great) to the blender; or mix in capers or chopped olives before spreading on the sandwiches. Makes 6 sandwiches.
'from Terra Brockman, Henry's Farm, Congerville, Illinois
Coarsely chop the greens. Heat the oil in a large, heavy pot with a tight-fitting lid over medium heat. Sauté the onion and garlic for about 5 minutes, or until they are soft. Stir in the parsley, cilantro, paprika, cumin, and cayenne, if using; cook for 1 minute. Stir in the greens. (The greens will shrink as they wilt, so you can add them by the handful if they do not fit in the pot all at once.)
Turn the heat to high; stir in the tomatoes with their juice. Cover and bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium, and let simmer, covered, stirring often to prevent sticking. After about 20 minutes, add salt to taste.
If the greens are tender, reduce the heat to low, and simmer, uncovered, stirring frequently, until very little liquid remains. Do not leave them unattended; they scorch easily.
Richard and Mary Anne Erickson, chefs and owners of Blue Mountain Bistro in Woodstock, New York, contributed this recipe. They told us, “Swiss chard is one of the most popular leafy greens in Mediterranean countries. It is sturdy, stands up well to the heat of cooking, and is delicious. Spinach, kale, or a mixture of leafy greens can also be used in place of Swiss chard in this recipe. This makes a great first course or side dish and could be served over grilled or fried bread as an appetizer.”
SWISS CHARD WITH GOLDEN RAISINS AND PINE NUTS
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
2 pounds Swiss chard, rinsed and drained
¼ cup olive oil
¼ cup golden raisins, soaked in warm water
2 to 3 tablespoons chopped garlic
2 anchovies, finely chopped (optional)
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar (optional)Salt and freshly milled black pepper
¼ cup pine nuts, toasted
Remove the Swiss chard greens and chop the stems into small pieces; keep separate. Heat the oil in a large, straight-sided skillet. Add the stems and a few tablespoons of water; cover and cook for 3 to 4 minutes. Uncover and continue cooking until the moisture has evaporated.
Add the Swiss chard greens, raisins, garlic, anchovies, if using, vinegar, if using, and salt and pepper to taste. Cook, covered, until the greens are tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Garnish with the toasted pine nuts and serve.
Henry's Farm, Congerville, Illinois
After many years living in other cultures (Israel, Japan, Nepal, and Japan again), Henry Brockman realized that what was important was a simple, honest living that respected the earth and contributed to the health and well-being of others, “be they humans or rabbits, earthworms or soil microbes, oak trees or algae.”
By working the land, Henry is able to be in intimate daily contact with the soil and the seasons 'and with his family. “I became a farmer,” Henry states, “because it was the only thing that made sense. I feed my family and other families without hurting the environment, I grow delicious and healthy food for people, and my kids know that when it's hot, you sweat and when it rains, you get wet.”
Henry made the decision to make organic farming his life's work while still in Japan. That's where he met his wife, Hiroko, where they were married, and where, in 1990, their first child was born. When they first came back to the United States, they lived for a year in New York State, where they apprenticed with John Gorzynski, who grows organic vegetables for Manhattan's flagship Green Market in Union Square.
Henry was uncertain as to where his farming future would be. Then one day, on a trip back to visit his family in Congerville, Henry had an epiphany. He stuck a shovel into the ground, just as he had been doing in New York, and turned over the soil. For a long moment, he stared at the rich, black, loamy earth. That was it. He knew that this was where he had to be; this was the land he would farm.
And that's what Henry has been doing since 1993, building the soil, planting hundreds of kinds of vegetables, (more than 450 varieties in 2002), and enriching the lives of every person who eats them.