CHAPTER EIGHT
FRUITS OF THE VEGETABLE WORLD

They're the stars of the vegetable world, and when they're around, they take center stage. Be honest, how many people wait for the first head of cabbage with the same anticipation as they do the first tomato of the season? Which vegetables do we turn to when we want to add substance and color to a meal? Not kale or celery, but peppers, eggplant, zucchini. And do you think it's an accident that Cinderella's fairy godmother passed over rutabagas and onions and chose a plump orange pumpkin to become a golden carriage?

Fruits contain the future, the seeds of the next generation. Botanically, a fruit is the plant's ovary, so tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, cucumbers, and squash are fruits even though they don't grow on trees. The foods we commonly call fruits'the ones that do grow on trees'are often sweeter, but fresh vegetable fruits also have a high sugar content and are juicy and delicious enough to be used in cakes, breads, and desserts.

Vegetable fruits fall into two families: cucurbits (cucumbers and squash, along with melons, which you'll find in chapter 11) and nightshades (tomatoes, eggplant, peppers). Each has its own attributes.

THE CUCURBITS

Most of the members of this family come from the tropics and subtropics. Cucumbers originated in India and other warm regions of Asia and were grown as far back as three thousand years ago. The adjective that's associated with them is “cool,” and if you've ever placed cucumber slices over your eyes or rubbed one over your skin, you'll know how appropriate this connection is (you'll also have benefited from cucumber's substantial vitamin E, which is an excellent skin conditioner). Squash are South American natives; they were unknown in the rest of the world before Columbus's voyages but were added to the cuisines of Europe and Asia not long after they were introduced. By the eighteenth century, they were worldwide staples. Thin-skinned summer squash and hard-shelled winter squash are actually the same vegetable at different stages of development. (Pumpkins are a form of winter squash.) The varieties that we use first are those bred to be cooked briefly (they can even be eaten raw), and we pick them when they're young and juicy (if you leave a summer squash on the vine too long, it will become hard). We allow winter squash varieties to harden on the vine, and their thick shells make it possible for them to be stored for several months. The dense flesh under that shell needs long, slow cooking'roasting winter squash brings out their sweet, nutty flavor best'but they're among the easiest vegetables to use.

In the Field

Cucumbers and squash grow on long vining plants; they're space hogs and each plant needs about fifteen square feet of soil. If the weather agrees with them, they will produce vast quantities of fruit for several weeks, which can sometimes become more of a challenge than a thrill. Before the fruits develop, the vines produce showy yellow flowers; squash blossoms are an edible delicacy (see page 168).

Heat-loving cucumbers stop producing once nights begin to cool. The two main types of cucumber are thin-skinned slicers and thicker-skinned pickling cucumbers. Though we've become used to seeing uniformly sized dark green cukes in the supermarket, CSAs and farm stands often offer a great variety: stubby yellow ‘Lemon’ or ‘Boothbay Blonde’ heirlooms, curly Mideastern varieties that grow up to two feet long, and pale green or striped varieties that are nearly seedless.

Summer squash also love hot weather. Once squash fruit appear, they grow amazingly fast'if you don't pick them small, they'll balloon into huge, clublike things that are tasteless and spongy. Squash plants have to be picked frequently because they will shut down production if large, seedy fruit are left on the vine; otherwise, they'll continue to produce new fruit until the first frost. In the past twenty years, zucchini, which are just one type of summer squash, have become supermarket staples. Yellow squash (crookneck and straight types), pale green Mideast types, and flattened pattypans (which are great for stuffing) are prepared in much the same way. Look for dark-and-light-green-striped ‘Costata Romanesco,’ which has a lower water content than many squash and is better for frying, and creamy-yellow skinned ‘Tromboncino,’ a superlong, curly squash that has an unusual nutty flavor.

Though winter squash are planted around the same time as summer squash, they're left on the vine to harden for several additional weeks'they need up to 150 days in the field'and will store better if allowed to cure in a dry, shady spot for a few weeks after that. The vines and fruit won't survive frost, though, so they must all be harvested before winter. Though they look very different, most winter squash, from single-serving ‘Buttercups’ and ‘Delicatas’ to huge ‘Hubbards’ and pumpkins, are prepared in the same way; only the length of baking time varies with size. Their flesh ranges from pale orange to bright gold, with some bluish and beige varieties. Some of the tastiest flesh is found in ‘Long Island Cheese’ pumpkins (a favorite for pies); Delicata (usually about twelve inches long and striped yellow-and-green); and ‘Carnival’ (a splashy, orange-gold-green acorn type).

Selecting the Best

After You Pick Up or Buy

Cucumbers and summer squash have a high water content and fragile skin. They should be brightly colored, fresh-looking, and firm. Avoid any that look dry at the stem end and have patches of skin missing. Winter squash should have a tough outer shell and feel heavy for their size. Check large squash to see that the area that was resting on the ground has no splits or mold.

Cucumbers and summer squash will last about a week in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator. Store them loose or in open plastic bags. Once they're cut, however, they deteriorate almost immediately, so don't plan to store a started cuke or squash'just eat it. The sweeter varieties of winter squash, like ‘Delicata,’ ‘Buttercup,’ and ‘Sweet Dumpling,’ do not store as well as Hubbards, butternuts, or turbans. They keep better in the refrigerator, so if you have room, place them in the crisper, loose or in open plastic bags, and they'll last for several weeks. Large pumpkins and squash will survive for several weeks even outside the refrigerator'and they are decorative additions to any kitchen counter'but watch them for rot, because when they begin to go, they go quickly.

Preparing Cucumbers

Preparing Summer Squash

Cucumbers can be sauté ed briefly (2 to 3 minutes) in butter if they're salted and drained to remove some of their water first; they can also be steamed for 3 to 4 minutes. But why bother? They're great raw'in salads and as snacks. For a simple, refreshing soup, just throw a few sliced cucumbers (seeds removed or not) into a blender with some vegetable or chicken stock, then stir in plain yogurt or sour cream, mint, salt, and pepper and chill. Cucumber slices and spears are convenient dippers, and hollowed-out cucumber halves or slices are edible holders for shrimp or tuna salads or creamy spreads.

Fresh CSA cucumbers don't have to be peeled; just wash them when you're ready to use them. You can create an interesting effect by scoring un-peeled cucumbers with a knife or fork before slicing. Supermarket cucumbers are often waxed, though, and therefore should be peeled or washed thoroughly before eating.

Rinse but don't peel summer squash. Spears and matchsticks make excellent crudité s and additions to summer salads. Or cook them in any of the following ways:

MICROWAVING is especially useful when preparing one or two servings. Cut 8 ounces of squash into slices and place into in a microwave-safe dish. Cover, cook on high for about a minute, turn and stir, then cook on high for another minute. Let the squash stand, covered, for a minute before opening.

ROASTING is efficient when you are heating the oven for something else. Slice or quarter large squash; cut small squash in half. Brush with oil; sprinkle with herbs or salt. Place in a 400° F oven for 10 to 15 minutes, until soft.

SAUTÉING adds flavor to the normally mild squash. Slice, dice, quarter, or halve (for small squash) the squash. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a skillet over high heat; if desired, add 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley or 2 cloves chopped garlic and sauté briefly. Drop the squash, a handful at a time, and let each batch gain a little color before adding the next batch. The squash will be golden and tender in about 7 minutes. Season with salt and freshly milled black pepper to taste. Serve as is, or over pasta, fish, or rice.

STEAMING preserves the moistness of squash as well as the vitamins. Cut the squash into pieces (matchsticks, rounds, or spears) and place in a steamer basket over boiling water. Cook, covered, until just crisp-tender, 2 to 4 minutes for matchsticks or very young squash, 6 to 8 minutes for halves or larger squash.

Preparing Winter Squash

Winter squash needs quite a bit of cooking time but very little preparation.

BAKING works particularly well for small varieties. Cut the squash lengthwise and scrape out the seeds and stringy portions. You can slice off a small piece at the bottom of each half so that it sits securely. If you have trouble slicing through the squash's hard skin, just puncture it in a few places and put the squash in the oven whole for about 15 minutes. It will then be soft enough to cut easily. Brush the flesh with melted unsalted butter, then drizzle with brown sugar, maple syrup, or honey. Bake for about 30 minutes in a 400° F oven.

BOILING is a quick way to cook winter squash if you cut it into small pieces. Winter squash can be peeled, cut into chunks, and boiled in a big pot of water, but peeling and cutting is not easy. Even if you're boiling, bake for 10 to 15 minutes to soften the skin and the flesh. Save the cooking water (for up to several hours) to cook pasta or rice, which will become infused with the squash's flavor.

MICROWAVING will really reduce squash cooking time. Cut winter squash in half and scrape out the seeds and strings. Wrap each half in microwave-safe plastic wrap and microwave on high for 5 minutes for each 8 ounces of squash.

PUREEING winter squash is the first step for many recipes, including pumpkin pie. To make winter squash puree, cook 1 large or 2 small squash in any of the ways listed here. Then scoop out the meat and put it in a food processor or blender with 1/8 cup heavy cream (scald the cream first) and 2 to 3 tablespoons unsalted butter. Process until smooth.

ROASTING whole is the easiest way to tenderize squash. If you can fit a squash into your oven, you can bake it whole. Just scrub it, puncture it in several places to allow hot air to vent, place it on a baking sheet (it will ooze juice that you don't want to bake on your oven), and put it in a 375° F oven for at least 45 minutes for a small squash, up to 1½ hours for a large one. Test with a knife or skewer, and when the flesh is tender, remove, let cool, then cut through the middle and remove the seeds and strings.

Preserving Cucurbits

Cucurbit Nutrition

Cucumbers don't freeze well; they contain too much water. But freezing is a perfect way to preserve summer and winter squash. Cut into halves, quarters, or chunks. Blanch for 3 to 4 minutes, then plunge into cold water. Drain fully, pack in airtight containers or freezer bags, and freeze. The squash will be mushy when thawed, but still usable in soups and stews. Or, puree squash (this is particularly useful for larger squash) and freeze for use in breads and muffins or as a soup thickener. Cucumbers do make the quintessential pickle, and zucchini pickles are a good way to preserve an overabundance of zucchini.

Cucumbers contain small amounts of vitamins A and C and are a good source of vitamin E. Cukes also provide fiber'some of which is lost if you remove the seeds'and fluids, since the flesh is about 95 percent water. Though they're more than 90 percent water, squash contain significant amounts of vitamins A and C, and some potassium and calcium. They're low in calories and high in fiber and fluids.

The nightshade family is a very diverse bunch: ornamental annual flowers like petunia, salpiglossis, and browallia; tobacco; poisons and hallucinogens (belladonna and jimsonweed); and some of our favorite vegetables, including tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, and potatoes (which you'll find in chapter 9). For a long time'up to the eighteenth century in some places'westerners didn't trust any of the family's members because of their relation to well-known poisons, and, in fact, some edible vegetables, like the eggplant and the potato, contain compounds that are toxic if the vegetable is eaten raw. And nightshades have been found to exacerbate arthritis in some people. But nightshades have become such an important'and delicious'part of our diet that few cuisines would be complete without them.

Eggplants, natives of Southeast Asia and possibly Africa, were particularly important ingredients in ancient Africa, Asia, and the Middle East, though they were avoided in Europe until the eighteenth century. Peppers are New World fruits; they were cultivated in South and Central America as early as 5,000 B.C.E. and spread quickly through Europe and Asia after Columbus's expeditions. Peppers are chameleons: Green ones turn red, yellow, and orange if allowed to stay on their vines for a few weeks; purple ones turn green. The color of the pepper indicates its ripeness. Most peppers are green in their immature stage, and though they keep better if picked green, they are not as sweet. Tomatoes originated in the Andes Mountains, but westerners wouldn't eat them for love (they were called love apples and considered to be highly aphrodisiac) or taste. Thomas Jefferson grew them at Monticello and tried to popularize them, but their poisonous reputation remained until the middle of the nineteenth century.

ALL ABOUT NIGHTSHADES

In the Field

Most eggplant varieties taste pretty much the same; their quality is affected more by freshness and growing conditions than by place. Different shapes are associated with different regions. Asian eggplants are usually narrow and long, Italian ones are small and teardrop-shaped, and our standard U.S. eggplants are large and bottom-heavy. Eggplants come in many colors, from deep purple to the aptly named ‘Applegreen,’ white ‘Caspar,’ fluorescent lavender ‘Neon,’ and striped ‘Zebra.’ Tiny ‘Bambino’ and ‘Little Finger’ eggplants are perfect for pickling.

Peppers split cleanly into two categories according to their level of a fiery element called capsaicin. Bell (sometimes called sweet) peppers contain very little of the capsaicin that makes peppers hot. Sweet peppers come in several shapes besides the boxy bells, including thin-skinned banana peppers and long, rectangular ‘Cubanelles.’ Most sweet peppers are great in salads, particularly those with thinner shells, while the heavier-walled bells are better for roasting and stuffing. Hot peppers contain levels of capsaicin that make them mildly spicy (like the Anaheim peppers that are used for chiles rellenos) to masochistically fiery (‘Thai Hots’ and ‘Habaneros’).Be careful when dealing with fresh hot peppers; they can cause severe (though ultimately harmless) pain. Keep kids away from hot peppers.

Until just a few years ago, most of us knew only a few kinds of tomatoes: round, plum, and cherry. Breeders have been working on the tomato for years, but their goal has been more shippable, less perishable varieties, and many of the tomatoes that have resulted have had the texture of Styrofoam and a similar taste. Luckily, small farmers, independent breeders, and seed savers preserved some old-fashioned tomatoes, and we can now choose from a multitude of delicious heirloom tomatoes'the most famous is ‘Brandywine,’ but ‘Cherokee Purple,’ tiny ‘Yellow Pear,’ and ‘Cosmonaut Volkov,’ among others, deserve similar attention. And some relatively new hybrids, like heavenly ‘Sungold’ cherry tomatoes, have earned a place in the tomato spectrum as well.

All the nightshades hate cold weather and can't be planted out until days and nights are reliably frost-free (though they all prefer cool nights when they're beginning to grow). But once summer's heat sets in, they all produce prolifically for several weeks, until cooler weather reduces production. They will continue at lower levels until the first frost kills the plant. Peppers and eggplants grow on short, bushy plants. The inedible eggplant flower is a beautiful purple bell'a lovely addition to the garden, as is the heavy, beautifully shaped fruit that matures by early summer. Green (immature) peppers are usually ready by the first week of summer; they turn red and yellow a few weeks later, and by that time have to be picked and eaten quickly because they deteriorate soon after.

No one ever said it was easy to grow tomatoes. They host many diseases'especially the older varieties'and don't grow well unless they have the right combination of hot days, cool nights, and just enough water to keep from becoming waterlogged. And the juicier they are, the more fragile they are, so the best tomatoes are also the ones that split, rot, and fall apart. But they're worth it, aren't they?

Tomatoes should be brightly colored, be heavy for their size, and have no signs of splitting. Peppers will be light for their size, but should not have any brown patches or splits. Look for eggplants with fresh-looking caps and shiny, unblemished skin.

Eggplants become bitter with age and are very perishable. They should be stored in a cool, dry place and used within a day or two. If longer storage is necessary, place the eggplant in the refrigerator vegetable drawer. Green peppers will last in the crisper drawer of your refrigerator for one to two weeks. Don't wash them, because any moisture on them will promote rot. Storing them in a ventilated plastic bag keeps them dry. Red, yellow, and orange peppers will last only a few days. Always store your tomatoes at room temperature rather than in the refrigerator. Tomatoes will become red after they're picked, but they stop producing sugar; cold makes them start breaking those sugars down and robs them of flavor.

Selecting the Best

After You Pick Up or Buy

Preparing Eggplant

Eggplant is never eaten raw; cooking eliminates a toxic substance called sola-nine. When young, the skin of most eggplants is deliciously edible; older eggplants should be peeled. Since the flesh discolors rapidly, an eggplant should be cut just before using. Bitter, overripe fruit benefits from the ancient method of salting halves or slices and weighting them or placing them in a colander for 20 minutes before rinsing. The salt helps eliminate some of the acrid taste.

Eggplant can be prepared in a variety of ways, including baking, broiling, and frying. It does, however, have a spongelike capacity to soak up oil. You can reduce fat absorption by coating it well with a batter or crumb mixture. Salting eggplant as above, gently squeezing it, and patting it dry also makes it less absorbent. Soaking the eggplant in cold water for an hour or more, then patting it dry, has been found to work as well.

BAKING intensifies the flavor of eggplant. Prick all over with a fork and bake at 400° F for 40 to 50 minutes, until it is very soft. Let it cool before you cut it open and scrape out the pulp. Wrapping eggplant in aluminum foil before you put it in the oven makes it easier to handle.

BROILING OR GRILLING adds a delicious smokiness to eggplant. Slice the eggplant about ¼ inch thick. Brush the slices with olive oil and herbs. Place under the broiler or on the grill for 10 to 15 minutes, until tender, turning once. Eggplant makes great kabobs: Thread chunks on skewers, alone or with other vegetables, and broil or grill as above.

MICROWAVING can quickly provide eggplant puree for dips and casseroles. Make several deep cuts in the eggplant's skin and place it in a microwaveproof dish. Cover and cook on high for 3 to 4 minutes (more for a very large eggplant); turn over and cook for another 3 to 4 minutes. Let stand for 3 to 4 minutes, then scrape out the pulp. Slices can also be microwaved in a single layer on a microwave-safe plate; microwave uncovered for 6 to 8 minutes, then season.

SAUTÉING is the most traditional way of preparing eggplant. Slice thinly and sauté in hot oil until tender. Dipping in flour, egg, and then bread crumbs, or in any batter, makes frying faster and makes the eggplant less likely to soak up oil.

STEAMING quickly produces a soft pulp. Place the whole eggplant in an inch of water for 15 to 30 minutes. Scrape out the pulp and use in salads or dips.

STUFFING makes a meal out of a baked eggplant. Bake the eggplant for 20 minutes, then slice in half and scoop out the seeds. Stuff, then bake for an additional 20 to 30 minutes. (See Some Stuffings, page 164.)

ROASTING is an important first step in eggplant casseroles, dips, and stir-fries. To roast eggplant, brush slices with olive oil and herbs. Roast in a hot oven for 30 minutes until tender. Turn once during the roasting.

Peppers are tasty and nutritious raw'great in salads and as snacks; any cooking removes some of the nutrients. Here are the ways they are most often cooked:

ROASTING is a traditional way to bring out the sweetness of peppers and to loosen the skin so they may be peeled. To roast small hot peppers or any thin-walled peppers, heat a griddle and place the peppers on it. Press and flip with a pancake turner until they are lightly browned all over. When they are cool enough to handle, carefully (wear gloves'they are still hot!!!) remove the stems and seeds. To roast bell peppers, see page 163.

SAUTÉING adds flavor intensity to all kinds of peppers; just keep it brief. Cut the peppers into strips. Heat oil in a skillet until very hot (almost smoking). Add the peppers (throw in a hot pepper if you want) and sauté over high heat until they begin to color. Reduce the heat to medium, season with salt, cover the pan, and cook until the peppers are softened. You can then add a few tablespoons of vinegar, chopped garlic, or chopped fresh herbs (parsley, basil, mint, or oregano works well); toss over the heat for just a minute. Serve hot, cold, or at room temperature. Add olives, anchovies, or capers for more flavor.

Preparing Peppers

STIR -FRYING takes advantage of the flavor and color of peppers to add excitement to a dish. Coat a skillet or wok with oil and heat until very hot; you may want to flavor the oil with onions and/or garlic. Add strips of pepper and toss rapidly, for 2 to 3 minutes.

STUFFING makes a half or a whole pepper a meal. To stuff bell peppers, slice off the top ½ inch, then scrape out the seeds and membranes. If the peppers won't stand, trim the bottoms, but don't make a hole or the juices will run out. If the peppers are very large, cut in half. Stuff (see Some Stuffings, page 164), then bake for 40 to 60 minutes.

Tomatoes are delicious served raw, briefly cooked, or simmered for hours. They can be the star of a dish, one of many flavor components, or the sauce that gives definition to the recipe. Here are some ways to prepare them and preserve their identity:

BROILING OR GRILLING briefly introduces tomato slices to the heat and chars the surfaces of the slices while leaving the centers warm, sweet, and juicy. Cut the tomatoes into large slices (at least ½ inch thick; cut paste tomatoes in half). Brush with oil and herbs, and place under the broiler or on the grill for about 5 minutes.

Preparing Tomatoes

Preserving Nightshades

ROASTING intensifies the tomato flavor and caramelizes the sugars in tomato halves. Place the tomatoes, cut side up, in a hot oven until the skin is charred but the flesh is still soft. To slow-roast, see page 163.

SWEATING is a gentle way to entice the juices from the tomatoes without any browning occurring. A good way to start a tomato sauce is to put sliced tomatoes into a saucepan with some unsalted butter, and about ½ teaspoon each of salt and sugar for each tomato used. Heat slowly, stirring constantly, until heated through, then lower the heat, cover, and continue cooking for 5 to 10 minutes, until the tomatoes have broken down. You can now season the tomatoes with herbs and add other vegetables to complete the sauce. For more about tomato sauces, see page 30.

Raw eggplant doesn't freeze well. If you can't use it quickly, prepare eggplant in dishes like moussaka, ratatouille, and eggplant dip and freeze in airtight containers. To freeze peppers, cut them into strips or bite-sized pieces (wash them first, and make sure they're completely dry before you put them in the freezer). They don't need blanching. Store in airtight containers or zippered plastic bags (they'll be soft but still good when thawed). Unpeeled roasted peppers can be frozen for up to one month; peel when thawed. Whole tomatoes freeze easily. Just put them in zippered plastic bags and place in the freezer. They're soft and a little mushy when they thaw but fine for sauces and purees. Or, make sauces or other dishes (like ratatouille) and freeze them. Drying is an excellent way to preserve tomatoes. Sun-drying really doesn't work in most North American climates, but home dehydrators will dry tomatoes perfectly with little work for you.

Nightshade Nutrition

Eggplant is not a great source of nutrients. But it's high in fiber and low in calories and so versatile that it can act as a base and an extender for foods that provide more vitamins and minerals. Peppers contain generous amounts of amino acids, potassium, and vitamins A and C and very few calories (just twenty-two in a large bell); red peppers have more vitamins A and C than green. Tomatoes are one of the best sources of lycopene, an antioxidant that helps prevent cell and tissue damage; cooking increases the amount of available lycopene. Recent studies have shown that consuming tomato sauces prevents many diseases. Tomatoes also provide beta-carotene, which is converted to vitamin A in the body, and substantial vitamin C. Use the seeds and the jellylike substance surrounding them; that's where most of the vitamin C is.

Cucumber and Yogurt

These two ingredients are combined in classic, cooling dips that originated in warm regions of the world. To make Greek tzatziki, mix 1 cup plain yogurt with 2 chopped garlic cloves, 1 large shredded cucumber, and 1 tablespoon lemon juice; season with salt and freshly milled black pepper and top with chopped fresh parsley. Indian raitas are a mellow accompaniment to spicy Indian foods: Combine 1 cup plain yogurt with 1 grated cucumber, 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint, ½ teaspoon ground cumin and/or curry powder, and salt and freshly milled black pepper to taste. Create your own instant classics by mixing plain yogurt and cucumber with your favorite herbs, spices, vegetables, and even fruit. These cool concoctions can be thinned with milk or stock and pureed (or just stirred) for a hot or cold soup. Or, pour over hot or cold vegetables as a sauce or dressing.

TERITAR

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

The Philly Chile Company Farm CSA was named for the New Mexican chile ‘Big Jim.’ Inspired on a trip to the Southwest, Amanda McKutcheon, a chef, and Rob Ferber, manager of a farmers’ market, started their farm in a New Jersey suburb of Philadelphia “to grow the freshest, finest-quality, organic produce available.” They pick and distribute all their CSA's produce the same day and also sell sauces made from their chiles by mail order. This pesto-like dip is from Amanda's grandmother, who made it often on hot summer days.

Combine the walnuts and garlic in a food processor fitted with the chopping blade; process to a paste.

Cut the cucumbers into large chunks; add to the walnut mixture and pulse until coarsely chopped. Add the oil, vinegar, and kosher salt; pulse until mixed but still somewhat chunky. Serve chilled or at cool room temperature.

Ulrike and Wendi Hilborn started Penn Cove Organics CSA in Oak Harbor, Washington, just before their first grandson, Matthew Ray, was born. “Grandma” Hilborn includes information about the baby in most of her Cornucopia newsletters, along with admonishments to “eat your vegetables,” news of the fledgling farm's problems and successes, and recipes. She gets wonderful Greek recipes like this one from Thomas Soukakosis, owner of El Greco Restaurant.

GREEK ZUCCHINI CAKES

MAKES 24 CAKES

Combine the grated zucchini and kosher salt. Set aside for 5 minutes (no more, or it will be mush). Rinse in cold water and squeeze dry in a kitchen towel or press in a strainer or colander until dry.

Combine the cheese, egg, green onions, flour, pine nuts, dill, oregano, garlic, and pepper in a large bowl; fold in the zucchini. Form into 24 small cakes (about 2 tablespoons of mixture for each) and sauté in olive oil, turning once, until browned, about 3 minutes on each side. Serve immediately.

Meet the Farmers

Sunflower Fields Family Farm, Postville, Iowa

Neither Linda nor Michael Nash grew up on a farm, but Michael came to love farm life while working on a dairy farm near Rochester, New York, during college. The couple met while attending the Eastman School of Music. “After we were married and living here and there, we always talked about how, sometime, having a farm was something we'd like to do,” Linda says. It took some time, but the couple has realized their dream. Sunflower Fields CSA is in its sixth season.

The couple started their search while Linda was an office manager for a group of surgeons and Michael was technical director for the Opera Theater of the University of Colorado. “It was a rat race,” Linda recalls. They began buying newspapers from all over the upper Midwest as they scanned classified ads for land.

They purchased their 250-acre farm in rural Iowa for the same amount of money that they sold their home on 1½ acres in Colorado. Linda is particularly happy with the generous size of their farm, which allows them to rotate crops in a seven-year cycle so that they do not deplete the soil with any one vegetable. The farm has about twenty-five acres in production at any one time. Linda and Michael intentionally sought out a larger farm that would enable them to farm more responsibly rather than needing to keep all the land in production at all times. “We said whatever happens, let's get enough land to be able to go fallow, rotate, and cover-crop and not just pound, pound, pound, the soil,” Linda recalls.

Unfortunately, even in Iowa, much of the fresh produce is shipped in long-distance from California, Linda says. That means hardiness, not taste, is the deciding factor when the far-off farms decide what varieties to plant. Small local farms can give more consideration to consumers’ taste buds because they don't have to worry about the great distance and time that separates them from their customers.

Of the several recipes for heirloom tomato salad that were submitted for this book, this version, from Ross Browne, executive chef of Absinthe Brasserie and Bar in San Francisco, stood out for its flavor and simplicity. Chef Browne told us that he makes this only when local tomatoes are at their peak. He tries to include four or five varieties of different sizes, shapes, and colors, and never refrigerates the tomatoes, because that reduces their flavor. He added that it is important to dress the salad only moments before serving so that the vinegar doesn't draw the juice from the tomatoes, and also suggested, “If the tomatoes are really good, you may not want to add vinegar at all, just a few drops of your favorite extra-virgin olive oil.”

HEIRLOOM TOMATOES WITH FRESH HERBS, TOASTED PINE NUTS, AND TAPENADE TOAST POINTS

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Prepare the tapenade.

Cut the larger tomatoes into slices, removing the stem ends; cut the smaller tomatoes into wedges; if using cherry or ‘Sweet 100’ tomatoes, leave them whole. Divide the tomatoes among 6 salad plates.

Cut the bread slices diagonally in half and toast. Spread the tapenade evenly over the toast points in a thin layer, covering completely to the edges.

Season the tomatoes with oil, vinegar, and sea salt and pepper to taste; sprinkle with the herbs and pine nuts. Place 2 toast points on each salad and serve.

NOTE: Spread the pine nuts on an ungreased tray and toast in a 350° F oven or in a toaster oven just until they are aromatic, 6 to 8 minutes.

TAPENADE: Combine 1 cup pitted, rinsed Nicoise olives, 2 tablespoons orange juice, 1½ tablespoons grated orange peel, 1 tablespoon whole almonds chopped lightly and toasted, 1 tablespoon olive oil, 1 chopped garlic clove, and 1/3 teaspoon Pernod, if desired, in a food processor fitted with the chopping blade. Pulse until coarsely chopped.

Salsas

“Salsa” is simply the Mexican word for sauce, but the term has come to stand for a rhythmic form of music and dance and a kicky little salad. The salsas we eat can be made from mostly raw vegetables (salsa cruda) or cooked vegetables (salsa verde generally includes cooked tomatillos, tomatoes, and chiles). Most recipes call for at least a little hot pepper, but salsas don't have to rely on heat to be interesting; the following are just a few of the hundreds of combinations that we've found:

Corn and Greens: 5 cups shredded sharp greens (arugula, watercress, radicchio), kernels from 3 ears of corn,¼ cup cider vinegar, and 1 to 2 small hot peppers, minced.

Jicama-Onion: About 8 ounces diced jicama; 8 ounces diced Vidalia onions;¼ cup white or cider vinegar, 3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro; 2 to 3 garlic cloves; minced; and 2 (or more) hot peppers, minced.

Red Pepper: 2 red bell peppers, sliced; 1 medium cucumber, chopped; 2 green onions, chopped; 3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro; and 1 small hot pepper, minced.

Watermelon and Red Onion: 2 large watermelon slices, cut into ½-inch chunks; 1 large red onion, diced; 1 bunch fresh cilantro, chopped; and ½ cup balsamic vinegar.

Avocado-Tomato: 2 tomatoes, diced; 1 small avocado, in chunks; 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro; 1 tablespoon cider vinegar; and 2 teaspoons lime juice.

This recipe comes from Miki Knowles, a consulting chef and recipe developer for B&W Quality Growers, a family-owned farm based in Fellsmere, Florida, that specializes in growing arugula and watercress. Miki, who is also a food stylist, works with many small and organic farmers from whom she often buys produce for photo shoots. “A lot of people say organic food doesn't look good,” Miki says, “but I find that the farms I deal with really take such care in raising their crops that they have the most beautiful vegetables.” For this salad, she suggests roasting your own peppers, because she finds most jarred roasted peppers to be less than flavorful. After blackened peppers are removed from the oven, Miki recommends that they be placed in a plastic container or paper bag to encourage them to sweat. Once they're cooled, the skin peels right off.

ROASTED PEPPER AND ARUGULA SALAD

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Preheat a grill or the broiler; grill or broil the peppers until fairly blackened. Transfer the peppers into a plastic container or a paper bag (closed tight); set aside to cool to room temperature.

Meanwhile, combine the oil, sugar, mustard, and garlic in a small jar and shake well.

Break the arugula and radicchio into pieces and combine in a large bowl. When the peppers have cooled, remove and discard the skins, seeds, and cores. Coarsely chop the peppers and toss with the arugula and radicchio.

Shake the dressing well; drizzle over the salad and toss. Divide among 4 salad plates and serve.

Pulp Facts

No one ever said eggplant pulp was pretty, but it's a beautiful base for spreads and salads. To make it, just puncture a large eggplant in a few places and wrap it loosely in aluminum foil. Place it in a 400° F oven until it's soft and mushy'it's usually ready in about an hour, but longer baking won't hurt it. Let it cool completely, then scrape all the flesh off the purple skin. You'll get about 1 ½ of pulp from a medium eggplant. Add whatever other vegetables and herbs you like'the eggplant's mild taste and pleasant texture blends and binds other ingredients.

Baba Ghanoush: Add to mashed eggplant pulp 2 tablespoons tahini (ground sesame see paste), 2 tablespoons lemon juice, 1 tablespoon olive oil, 1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro or parsley, 2 garlic cloves, minced (mashed or pureed roasted garlic is even better), 1 teaspoon cumin seeds, and salt and ground red pepper to taste. Mix well and serve with pita.

Thai Eggplant Dip: Combine mashed eggplant pulp, 3 to 4 garlic cloves, chopped, and 1 tablespoon peeled minced fresh ginger; puree in a food processor or blender until smooth. Add 2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar, 2 tablespoons sesame oil, 2 tablespoons soy sauce, and 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro or parsley. Add salt and red pepper to taste.

Abu Ghanoush: Instead of mashing the eggplant pulp, chop it roughly and toss it with 1 bell pepper, finely sliced; 2 to 3 medium tomatoes, finely sliced; and 1 small onion, finely sliced. In a small bowl, mix the juice of 1 lemon or lime, 1 tablespoon olive oil, 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley or cilantro, 2 garlic cloves, minced, 1 teaspoon ground cumin, a pinch of ground red pepper, and salt to taste. Combine with the eggplant mixture.

Meet the Farmers

Green Market Farm, New Salem, Massachusetts

Karen Wallman and her husband, John, are both city kids by birth but farmers at heart. Karen, for one, always had a feeling that farming was in her future. But her interest in gardening didn't mean automatic success. When she planted her first garden, she was in her twenties. She was so excited that her radishes were growing at all that she let them grow, and grow, and grow. By the time she harvested them, “You could have whittled them like wood,” she recalls. But she didn't give up. Karen, an artist, grew even more inspired by the beauty of farming when she and her husband, a chiropractor, moved out to a relatively rural section of northern Long Island in New York State. By 1989, they'd decided it was time to get their own land, so they bought just under three acres in Massachusetts. They operate a buying club that distributes organic produce from a wholesale distributor, as well as a retail shop where Karen sometimes sells her artwork along with her homemade jams and mustards. They added their CSA to the mix two years ago.

Pumpkins need so much water and manure that Karen sees them as a kind of guilty pleasure, especially when she considers most end up on doorsteps as seasonal ornaments. But at the end of the season it's all worthwhile. When she's hunted out the dozens of beautiful orange orbs from their hiding places under the large green leaves, she can't help but fall in love with the crop yet again. “Pumpkins are magical,” says Karen.

Green Market Farm is an organic farm that is saving up to become certified organic one day. Unlike many small farmers, Karen believes the new federal organic standards may one day benefit her. “It gives me something I can strive for,” says Karen. “Without consumers, we're just growing this stuff for ourselves. What the standards will do is create customer trust.”

Frances Walker of Eatwell Farm in Winters, California, is a gazpacho maven but points out that gazpachos are hard to pin down'there are more than thirty recipes for this soup in Spain, where it originated. Frances often adds grated summer squash of different colors'she grates the squash as well as the tomatoes, onions, and cucumbers because that provides more juice as well as a better texture. But she throws peppers and garlic into the blender, because they chop better that way (the garlic goes in first, alone). Instead of cutting bread for croutons, she just puts big chunks at the bottom of the bowl. And she throws a few ice cubes into the soup because it cools it down quickly for immediate eating and thins down heavier gazpachos. This gazpacho was contributed by a CSA member.

GAZPACHO

MAKES 8 SERVINGS

Core the tomatoes and dip into boiling water for about 10 seconds to loosen the skin. Place the tomatoes in ice water to cool, then slip off their skins. Cut the tomatoes in half crosswise and squeeze out the juice and seeds into a strainer over a bowl. Reserve the juice and discard the seeds. Puree half of the tomatoes in a food processor or blender. Coarsely chop the remaining tomatoes.

Combine the pureed and chopped tomatoes in a bowl and add the reserved juice. Stir in the cucumbers, red onion, bell pepper, oil, vinegar, garlic, and jalapeño peppers. Season with salt and black pepper to taste. Chill for at least 1 hour before serving. Sprinkle the fresh herb over the bowls for garnish, if desired.

Heirlooms

The term “heirloom” has become common in culinary circles lately, though it doesn't have an exact or accepted definition. Heirloom vegetables are the ones that were grown before breeders forgot about trying to find the best taste and started hybridizing for transportability, ease of growing, uniformity, and pest resistance. Some people say that heirlooms have to be at least fifty years old, and many of them are much older; we can trace some of our favorite seeds back to colonial times; and dinosaur kale may go back even further than that.

One attribute that most heirlooms share is that they're open-pollinated'that is, their seeds produce exact replicas of themselves. Many modern hybrids are unstable; if you save and plant their seeds, you'll get one of their parents, or a less favorable combination.

Let's not forget that not all progress is bad. Some recent hybrids, like ‘Sungold’ cherry tomatoes, can beat any of our grandmothers’ versions for taste. And resistance to disease and pests is a very useful attribute, especially for organic farms. (We're not referring to genetically modified varieties'for more information about those, see page 262.) Some of the older varieties, though delicious, are so prone to pests that growing them without pesticides is practically impossible above the home-garden, pick-off-every-bug-by-hand scale.

But we don't need every one of our vegetables to be perfectly formed and blemish-free; huge, misshapen heirloom tomatoes, full of juice and flavor, deserve a place in our markets and at our tables. We don't want to lose our vegetable heritage, and by buying heirloom vegetables from our CSAs and farmers’ markets, we're keeping them in the gene pool so that we can enjoy them and whatever hybrids can be bred from them in the future.

There are thousands of heirloom vegetables, including the ones whose seeds your grandmother saves from year to year, but whose names she has forgotten. Here are just a few: ‘Early Jersey Wakefield’ cabbage, teardrop-shaped, pale green, delicate flavor; ‘Scarlet Runner’ beans, grown by Thomas Jefferson; ‘Chioggia’ striped beets, an Italian heirloom; ‘Cherries Jubiliee’ potatoes, bitesized, red-skinned, easy to grow; ‘Jacob's Cattle’ dried beans, which can be stored for months; ‘Brandywine’ tomatoes, which are reputed to have the best taste in the world and were at the forefront of the heirloom revolution, as well as ‘Cherokee Purple,’ which have black streaks and an even more interesting taste than Brandywine.

Donna Karch of Mountain Melody Gardens in Palenville, New York, grows flowers that she sells through CSAs and farmers’ markets. Her flowers are all organically grown; many of us don't realize how much pesticides and synthetic fertilizer are introduced into the environment by flower growers, especially those in unregulated countries. Donna is also a wonderful cook; this soup was brought to a Carnegie Hill/Yorkville CSA potluck and devoured in minutes.

BUTTERNUT SQUASH AND CIDER BISQUE

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Melt the butter in a large kettle and sauté the onions and curry powder over very low heat for about 25 minutes.

Meanwhile, peel the squash and apples and cut them into chunks (see Note). Add the squash, apples, and stock to the kettle and simmer for 25 minutes. Mash the solids with a potato masher or transfer the contents of the kettle to a blender and puree (depending on how much texture you like).

Return pureed bisque to the kettle; add the cider and season to taste with salt and pepper.

NOTE: If you find the squash too hard to cut, bake it in a 400° F oven for about 20 minutes before peeling and cubing it.

Salad Stuff

Other than lettuce, tomatoes are probably the most common ingredient of salads. Here are a few international classics:

Salad Caprese: Overlap slices of ripe tomato and fresh mozzarella. Whisk together 3 tablespoons olive oil, 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar, 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh basil, and salt and freshly milled black pepper to taste. Drizzle the dressing over the salad and garnish with whole basil leaves.

Israeli Salad: Combine 1 cup each finely chopped cucumber and finely chopped tomato. Mix ¼ cup cider vinegar with 2 tablespoons vegetable oil and 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley. Toss the dressing with the salad and add salt and freshly milled black pepper to taste.

Greek Salad: Combine chunks of tomato, red onion, bell pepper, and cucumber in a salad bowl. Sprinkle ½ cup crumbled feta cheese over the salad. Dress with olive oil, and white wine vinegar mixed with chopped fresh oregano. Garnish with ½ cup sliced Greek olives.

Latino Salad: Overlap slices of tomato, red onion, and avocado. Whisk together 3 tablespoons lime juice, 3 tablespoons olive oil, 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro, and salt and freshly milled black pepper to taste. Drizzle the dressing over the salad.

Tuscan Bread Salad: Cut 6 slices of stale bread into chunks. Soak the bread in milk or water for about 30 seconds, then press gently in a colander and set aside for 30 minutes to drain. Meanwhile, chop 3 tomatoes and cut a red onion into chunks; combine with 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh basil. Combine with the bread and toss gently with a vinaigrette dressing.

Rick Bayless, chef/owner of Frontera Grill/Topolobampo Restaurants in Chicago and host of public television's Mexico'One Plate at a Time, was the first chef to contribute a recipe for this book. He told us that his goal as a chef and restaurateur is “to support the principles of sustainability of our planet by buying organically or naturally raised foods, working with local farmers, thoughtfully using (and reusing) resources, and disposing of waste; to carry the principles of sustainability into our lives and those of our coworkers by developing realistic performance expectations.”

TACOS DE CALABACITAS A LA MEXICANA MEXICAN-STYLE ZUCCHINI TACOS

MAKES ABOUT 6 CUPS, FILLING ABOUT 24 TACOS, SERVING 6 AS A CASUAL MEAL

Preparing the flavoring base: Measure the oil into a large (12-inch) skillet set over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, until richly browned, about 8 minutes. While the onion is cooking, coarsely puree the tomatoes in a food processor or blender. Add the garlic to the browned onion, cook for 1 minute, stirring, then add the tomatoes. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover the skillet, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat.

Roasting the chiles: Roast the poblanos directly over a gas flame or on a baking sheet 4 inches below a very hot broiler, turning regularly until the skin has blistered and blackened on all sides, about 5 minutes for an open flame, about 10 minutes for the broiler. Cover with a kitchen towel and let stand for 5 minutes. Rub off the blackened skins, then pull out the stems and seed-pods. Rinse briefly to remove stray seeds and bits of skin. Slice into ¼-inch strips.

Future Classics

We take certain vegetable preparations for granted: mashed potatoes, pickled cucumbers, coleslaws. The following creations aren't staples yet, but if enough people try them, they will be soon!

Roasted Peppers: Place bell peppers'whole or cut in half (remove the seeds if you're cutting in half)'under the broiler or over an open flame until the skin is blackened. (If roasting whole, turn them often.) Then slip off the skins (placing blackened peppers in a paper bag for 15 minutes before peeling makes the skins come off more easily). They're now soft and sweet.

Slow-Roasted Tomatoes: Cut tomatoes into ¾-inch slices and place them on a baking sheet. (Line it with aluminum foil or parchment paper'or face a difficult cleanup!) Sprinkle the tomatoes with a pinch of brown sugar, salt, and pepper; drizzle with olive oil; then sprinkle with chopped fresh herbs (basil is best). Bake at 250° F for at least 3 hours, until the tomatoes are shriveled; let cool before serving. Slow-roasting concentrates tomato flavor; even mediocre tomatoes taste good when prepared this way, and great tomatoes turn so sweet, they taste like candy.

Add a vinaigrette to either of the above, and they're a delicious side dish. Puree that side dish, and you have a great dip; thin with milk, cream, or stock, and you have a soup.

Finishing the dish: Uncover the skillet and raise the heat to medium-high. Stir in the poblanos, corn, zucchini, epazote (or cilantro), and the crema (or one of its stand-ins). Cook, stirring frequently, until the zucchini is crisp-tender and the liquid has thickened enough to coat the vegetables nicely, about 8 minutes. Taste and season with salt, usually about 1 teaspoon. Serve in a decorative bowl, sprinkle with the crumbled cheese, and pass the hot tortillas separately for do-it-yourself tacos.

Some Stuffings

These mixtures can be used to stuff hollowed-out peppers, eggplants, large summer squash (especially pattypans), even onions. This is enough stuffing for about 4 small bell peppers, 2 large squash, or 4 small pattypans (about 4 servings). After preparing the stuffing, arrange the vegetables to be filled in a baking pan, stuff, and bake in a 375° F oven for 45 minutes to 1 hour, until the stuffing is browned.

Fresh Vegetables and Cheese: Toss 2 chopped tomatoes, 1 diced medium onion,½ cup chopped fresh basil, 2 minced garlic cloves, and salt and freshly milled black pepper to taste. Sauté briefly in 2 tablespoons olive oil. Combine with 2 cups cheese (grated mozzarella or Cheddar or ricotta, or a mixture). Top with grated Parmesan.

Sausage and Squash: Mix 12 ounces sweet Italian sausage (casings removed), 1 cup coarsely grated zucchini,¼ cup finely chopped onion,¼ cup fine dried bread crumbs, 1 small egg, 3 tablespoons minced fresh parsley,½ teaspoon freshly milled black pepper,½ teaspoon salt,½ teaspoon minced fresh rosemary.

Spicy Chicken: Combine 3 cooked and diced chicken breast halves, 6 ounces cream cheese, 2 diced green onions, 2 minced garlic cloves, and 1 diced small hot pepper in a medium bowl; stir to blend. Add ½ cup grated cheese (Monterey Jack, mozzarella, Swiss), 1 large egg, and 2 tablespoons heavy cream; stir to combine. Season with salt, freshly milled black pepper, chili powder, and cumin to taste.

Rice and Beef: Combine a 28-ounce can tomatoes, 8 ounces ground beef, 1½ cups cooked brown rice, 1 diced small onion, 1 large egg, 2 minced garlic cloves, 1 teaspoon chili powder, 1 teaspoon dried oregano, and a dash of Worcestershire sauce. Add, as desired, 1 cup sauté ed mushrooms or other vegetables; other herbs; hot peppers.

Cheese and Greens: Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a skillet; sauté 1 chopped small onion and 3 minced garlic cloves. Add 4 cups chopped greens; sauté until softened. Combine with 2 cups grated cheese. Season with salt, freshly milled black pepper, and herbs.

This recipe, contributed by Scott Mathieson of Laguna Farms, Sebastopol, California, is a complete meal in one dish. It's easily adaptable to whatever vegetables are in season, and you can add different herbs to the tomato sauce to vary the flavor. The rice forms a substantial base'tamp the rice down gently'and the cheese topping crusts beautifully during the baking time. It also freezes and reheats well.

PICANTE ZUCCHINI

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Combine the tomatoes, tomato paste, garlic, cilantro, hot pepper, and rosemary in a medium saucepan. Cook over low heat until the tomatoes are very tender, about 30 minutes. Add a little water, if necessary, to make 2 cups. Taste and add salt.

Meanwhile, saute the zucchini in olive oil until tender and lightly browned, about 3 minutes on each side. Remove to paper towels to drain.

Preheat the oven to 350° F. Oil a 2-quart casserole or baking dish. Spread the rice evenly in the bottom of the dish; cover with the zucchini slices. Pour the tomato sauce over the top and sprinkle with the cheese. Bake for about 45 minutes, or until bubbly and browned.

This easy-to-make dish, by Jenni and Pete Cosenza, was a hit at one of the Carnegie Hill/Yorkville CSA's potluck suppers last year. Even the children came back for seconds. This is a nice side dish to accompany a simple grilled chicken, though it may be eaten as a main course as well.

AUTUMN SQUASH PASTA

MAKES 8 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS

Preheat the oven to 350° F. Cut the squash in half; scoop out and discard the seeds. Place the squash, cut side down, in 1 inch of water in a 13- by 9-inch glass baking dish. Bake for 45 to 50 minutes, until tender. Set aside just until cool enough to handle, then scoop the squash from the shells.

Meanwhile, cook the pasta in boiling salted water for 2 to 3 minutes less than the cooking time on the package; drain and set aside.

Heat the oil and butter in a large pot over low heat. Add the leeks, onion, garlic, sea salt, and pepper. Sauté until the onion is translucent and the leeks have become pliable, making sure the garlic does not burn. Add the squash and wine, stirring until a thick sauce forms. Fold in the cooked pasta; taste and adjust the seasonings. Spoon into the same glass baking dish; sprinkle with the cheese.

Bake for 20 to 30 minutes, until the cheese browns; sprinkle with the parsley and serve hot.

Corporate Tomatoes

Here's how Leigh Hauter of Bull Run Mountain Organic Farm, The Plains, Virginia, instructs his CSA members on handling tomatoes:

“Corporate tomatoes, the ones that you buy in the grocery stores, are a completely different creature from what we grow. First, corporate tomatoes aren't grown around here. Almost all of America's summer tomatoes originate in California, in the fabulously polluted San Joaquin Valley, and are then shipped across the country.

“And how is something as delicate as a tomato transported all of those thousands of miles? Simple. They are picked green and often treated with a gas to make them turn red. And why, you might ask, would anyone pick their tomatoes green (unless they wanted fried green tomatoes)? The answer: Tomatoes picked green are firmer, less juicy, more capable of bouncing around in a box, and, in the store, of being picked up and squeezed. It takes an awful lot to make them go squish. Corporate tomatoes have what homegrown tomatoes don't have. They have ‘shelf life.’

“Fresh, picked-this-morning tomatoes are different. They are full of juice. The fruit walls are tender. If they are given a squeeze, they go squish. And if you put them in a box and ship them halfway around the world, what comes out at the other end is tomato juice, not tomatoes. Local, homegrown tomatoes are a completely different creature from those corporate vegetables. They are full of juice. They can't handle being squeezed.

“So, to make the story short, when you are picking out your tomatoes, just look at them, and touch only the tomatoes you are going to put in your bag. And if, by chance, you don't particularly like that tomato after picking it up, put it in your bag anyway, and just take another one.”

Please Eat the Flowers

Bright yellow squash flowers are not only beautiful but also delicious. Simply dip them in egg, then in flour, and fry them in oil until golden brown. You can stuff gently'or just insert a sliver of cheese into each flower.

Mike Kuhn, a former volunteer for Angelic Organics CSA and a Chicago-based chef, taught classes for the farm that were designed to help shareholders learn to cook and manage the vegetables they received every week. Mike said that the challenges of CSA cooking are similar to the so-called “market-basket test” popular in cooking schools, where students must rely on their ingenuity to cook up a box of ingredients on the spot. He gave this recipe to Maura Webber, to accompany an article she wrote on his class. The piece, “Organics Find Audience in Pilsen: Touched by Angelic,” was published in the Chicago Sun-Times on June 7, 2000.

SQUASH “PIZZA”

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Preheat the oven to 400° F. Oil an ovenproof baking dish.

Alternate the zucchini and yellow squash, cut side up, in the dish. Drizzle with the oil and season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle the tomato, onion, thyme, and basil over the zucchini and squash; top with the cheese.

Bake, uncovered, for about 20 minutes, or until the cheese is melted and the zucchini and squash soften.

The Cook College Student Organic Farm at New Jersey's Rutgers University is the nation's largest organic farm managed by university students. For the past seven years, students have cultivated and maintained three acres of land and provided food for its 120 members and the Elijah's Promise Soup Kitchen. Students manage all aspects of the CSA and coordinate produce donations and deliveries. The program promotes healthy cooking; this classic Greek recipe uses low-fat cottage cheese instead of cream in its custard, but you'll be surprised at how creamy and tasty the result is.

EGGPLANT PASTITSIO

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the eggplant and onions. Cook, stirring frequently, for 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to low. Stir in the tomato paste, wine, salt, oregano, cinnamon, if using, and allspice, if using. Cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 350° F. Spray an 8-inch square baking dish with vegetable cooking spray.

Combine the eggs, cottage cheese, and Parmesan cheese in a small bowl. Spread 1 cup of the eggplant mixture in the bottom of the baking dish. Top with the macaroni, then the cheese mixture, and then the remaining eggplant mixture. Bake, uncovered, for 30 minutes.

This recipe comes from Steve Waxman of Carnegie Hill/Yorkville CSA in Manhattan; he is one of our favorite sources for recipes for our newsletter. Steve added these tips: “We consistently receive a high quantity and quality of eggplant. Other than baking the whole eggplant for a Middle Eastern– style salad, this is our favorite way to prepare it for ready use during the week.”

VEGETABLE MOUSSAKA

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Heat ½ tablespoon oil and about 1/8 teaspoon pepper in a heavy skillet over medium heat. Place the eggplant slices in the skillet, making sure that the surface of each slice makes full contact with the pan. Let the eggplant cook on each side for about 3 minutes, periodically pressing on each slice with a spatula. Set aside the cooked slices and repeat, adding oil and a bit more pepper as necessary (see Note), until all the eggplant has been cooked. In the same skillet, sauté the green onions and garlic in 1 tablespoon oil for about 2 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 350° F. Spread the butter around the inside of a 9-inch square baking dish. Place a layer of the potatoes and sprinkle with half of the oregano, half of the salt, and 1/8 teaspoon pepper. Add half of the eggplant, sprinkle with half of the garam masala and half of the goat cheese, and top with half of the tomato slices. Next add the onion-and-garlic mixture. Then, repeat the potato, eggplant, cheese, and tomato layers. Bake, uncovered, for about 45 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender. Test occasionally for doneness with a sharp knife.

Meanwhile, prepare the yogurt sauce. Combine the yogurt, parsley, and lemon juice in a small bowl and refrigerate. Serve the moussaka topped with yogurt sauce.

NOTE: Eggplant absorbs a lot of liquid, so do not use too much oil at a time. You can also add a liquid such as wine, beer, or stock if the pan is getting too hot and you don't want to add more oil.

Lynn Thor of Whistle-Stop Gardens in Tunnel, New York, raises beef as well as vegetables, but many of her favorite recipes, like this one, are vegetarian. Her favorite tomatoes for this sauce are Brandywines. Lynn says that sliced fennel, zucchini, or summer squash are good optional additions to the recipe. Besides serving it over pasta or rice, she uses this sauce to top pizza.

EASY PASTA FRESCA

MAKES 8 SERVINGS

Preheat the oven to 400° F. Combine the eggplant, peppers, onion, and garlic with enough olive oil to coat. Spread in an oiled shallow baking dish and roast for about 45 minutes, stirring every 10 minutes or so, until nicely caramelized.

Mash together the tomatoes, basil, parsley, roasted garlic cloves, and balsamic vinegar; fold into the remaining roasted vegetables. Do not cook; taste, and add salt and pepper.

Serve at room temperature, or slightly warmed, over pasta or rice, or use as a pizza topping. Pass your favorite grated cheese (Parmesan or feta is excellent).

Clay Brook Farm, a thirty-six-acre certified organic farm in Jericho, Vermont, has been farmed intermittently over the last 140 years and was being used to raise sheep before Bob Hill and Laury Shea bought it in 1997. Bob and Laury grow a wide variety of vegetables and flowers, which they sell to restaurants, natural food stores, and florists, and at local farmers’ markets. In 1999, they started the CSA component of their farm, and it's grown to include more than seventy-five families. This recipe was contributed by member Carol Lee Mason.

TOMATILLO TACO CASSEROLE

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Preheat the oven to 350° F. Lightly oil the bottom of a 13- by 9-inch baking pan.

Brown the meat in a large, heavy skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, hot peppers, if using, and garlic; cook until tender.

Spread the tortilla chips in the bottom of the baking pan. Top with the meat mixture. Combine the beans, the tomatillos, and ½ cup water in the skillet used for the meat. Simmer gently until heated through, about 10 minutes; add salt and pepper to taste. Pour the tomatillo mixture over the meat layer in the pan. Cover with aluminum foil and bake for 20 minutes.

Uncover and sprinkle with the cheese. Return to oven and bake, uncovered, until the cheese melts. Serve with sour cream and salsa as toppings.

NOTE: Tomatillos are related to tomatoes but are tart even when ripe and pale golden. They are usually used while fairly green and firm. To prepare them, peel off the papery husk and then thoroughly rinse the tomatillos to remove the sticky or waxy coating before chopping.

A Farm Story

Here's the story of Brookfield Farm, one of the longest-running and largest CSAs in the United States. In 1976, Claire and David Fortier purchased sixty-four acres of agricultural and forest land. They built a small pole barn, plowed the first fields, and set up Fortier Farm, Inc. In 1980, they started small organic gardens, purchased a cow, and drew up equipment priorities. The farm began selling produce to local wholesalers, and its name was changed to Brookfield Farm.

In 1986, Brookfield Farm became the third CSA in the United States. Fifty-five member households joined in supporting the farm and receiving their share from approximately four acres of vegetable production. Also that year, the first apprentices were hired.

In 1987, the Biodynamic Farmland Conservation Trust, Inc., was created to take on the responsibility of running (owning) the farm and clarifying and expanding the mission to include education of farmers and the public.

By 1991, the CSA had grown to one hundred households. Members paid their share of the running costs and were allowed to take as much of the available produce'from approximately seven acres of vegetable production'as they needed. The apprenticeship program was, by then, taking on two or three trainees each year.

The years from 1992 to 1994 were difficult. The farm struggled to retain members and experienced a financial crisis. (The original founders had passed away, and the original farmers left the farm). The apprenticeship program was eliminated.

In 1995, Dan Kaplan became farm manager. Share structure was changed to reflect changes in local markets, and membership grew to more than five hundred households. Infrastructure, finances, and the membership base were improved. There are now twenty-five acres of vegetable production. The apprenticeship program has been rekindled and blossoms, with consistently more applicants than positions.

Farmer Dan Kaplan of Brookfield Farm in Amherst, Massachusetts, gave us this recipe that his apprentice Nicole Goode found on a trip to the south of France. Almost all the ingredients can be found on the farm at the same time.

RATATOUILLE

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

LAYERED EGGPLANT CASSEROLE

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Heat the oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium heat. Sauté the peppers, onion, and garlic until soft; stir in the tomatoes, eggplant, zucchini, and herbs. Cover and simmer for about 30 minutes. Voila

Joanne Brieff, a member of the Carnegie Hill/Yorkville CSA in Manhattan, says her mother has been cooking this recipe successfully for fifty-five years; when Joanne makes it herself, she uses stone-ground whole wheat flour, which makes it even better. It's a very adaptable recipe; she often adds other vegetables to the mix and adjusts the amount of cheese. Instead of frying the eggplant slices, you can drizzle them with oil and bake them on a cookie sheet for about thirty minutes in a 350° F oven.

Preheat the oven to 350° F. Oil a 2-quart casserole. Beat the egg and milk in a bowl and spread the flour on a plate.

Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large skillet. Dip each slice of eggplant into the egg mixture, and then flour on both sides. Place the slices in the skillet in a single layer and fry until golden on both sides. Continue frying the eggplant in batches, adding oil as necessary, until done.

Sandwiches

When you're making ratatouille, make a lot. If you don't eat it all on the first go-round, you'll have some for sandwiches the next day. Just layer the hot or cold vegetables on bread and add slices of cheese (fresh mozzarella works divinely). Leave it open-faced, or add another slice of bread.

Some people prefer the same combination of vegetables'onions, eggplant, peppers, zucchini, tomatoes (with garlic and herbs)'but in larger pieces. If you want to cook vegetables just for sandwiches, cut the vegetables vertically into thin slices and sauté in olive oil until soft.

Layer the fried eggplant, the onion, the tomato, and the cheese until they are all used up; the final layer should be eggplant. Sprinkle any remaining flour (or use another 2 tablespoons flour) over the top. Dot with the butter. Place in the oven, uncovered, for about 45 minutes, until bubbling and the eggplant is tender.

Tanya Furtado, a professional baker and personal chef, moves around a lot. She's lived in Ohio, Huntington Beach, Seattle, San Antonio, New York, and now in Milwaukee, with her husband, Alex, and their two children, Max and Maya'and she's found a CSA in every city. Many of our midsummer CSA shares will include almost everything needed for this recipe.

ASIAN FRIED VEGETABLES

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Combine the green onions, garlic, ginger, and chili sauce in a cup. Combine ¼ cup water with the soy sauce, brown sugar, and balsamic vinegar in another cup; set both aside.

Heat a large, heavy skillet over high heat. Add 2 tablespoons oil and swirl to coat the pan. Reduce the heat to medium. When the oil sizzles, add the green onion mixture. Stir gently for about 30 seconds, adjusting the heat so the ingredients don't burn. Add the eggplant, zucchini, bell pepper, and mushrooms; cook, stirring, until the vegetables begin to brown, about 4 minutes, adding more oil if necessary.

Stir the soy sauce mixture and add to the pan; toss well. Bring the liquid to a simmer, cover the pan, and simmer until most of the liquid is absorbed’ 2 to 3 minutes.

Judith Hausman, a freelance culinary journalist with a regular column in the Journal News in White Plains, New York, and a member of Chefs Collaborative, sent us this recipe from a CSA family that she had written an article about and found so fascinating that she stayed in contact with them. The 125-acre Ryder Farm near Brewster, New York, is farmed by Hall Gibson, who married into the Ryder family, owners of that acreage since 1795. Most of Gibson's career was spent with the federal government in Washington until he retired early in 1976 to save the family farm. He says, “It's a very dear place. It's one of the few small farms that survives in our area and the only certified organic farm in Westchester and Putnam Counties.” In addition to their “pick-your-own raspberries” program, Gibson had participated in New York City's Union Square Market, but gave it up after twenty years, on his seventy-sixth birthday, to create his CSA. This recipe is from Belle Ryder, the ninety-year-old granddaughter-in-law of Stephen Ryder, who started the farm.

BREAD AND BUTTER PICKLES

MAKES ABOUT 8 PINTS

Trim and cut the cucumbers into ¼-inch-thick slices. Combine the cucumber slices and onions in a large bowl. Toss with the salt and cover with ice for 3 to 4 hours, replenishing the ice as necessary.

Combine the sugar, vinegar, mustard seeds, celery seeds, and turmeric in a large pot and boil until the sugar dissolves. Drain and rinse the cucumbers and onions and add them to the hot liquid. Slowly return all of it to a full, rolling boil; remove from heat.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and sterilize eight 1-pint jars, new lids, and rings. Keep the water simmering. Spoon the hot cucumber mixture into the jars, leaving ½-inch headroom between the liquid and the top of the jar. Add the lids and rings to seal, and process in the hot-water bath for 10 minutes. Remove and set aside to cool. Check the seals, label, and store in a cool, dry place.

Katherine Kelly, owner of Full Circle Farm in Kansas City, Kansas, grew up outside Wichita. She moved to Minneapolis– Saint Paul and eventually to Boston and Kansas City, doing everything from program development to fund-raising to marketing; on the side, she learned organic farming. Her partner, Carol Burns, who is Teton-Lakota-American, is a documentary filmmaker as well as a farmer. This recipe is from Full Circle member Lee Alexander.

PEPERONATA

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

NUTMEG-WHIPPED SQUASH

MAKES 4 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS

Heat the oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic; sauté until the onion begins to brown, about 3 minutes. Add the peppers and tomato sauce. Cover and cook until the peppers are just tender, about 8 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.

This simple side dish from Marleen Littera is especially good served with ham. She's been a member of Bluebird Hills Farm CSA for five years. To make it even easier, the squash could be roasted whole and the meat scooped out into a bowl to whip with the flavorings.

Bring the squash and water to cover by 1 inch to a boil in a large saucepan over high heat. Cover and cook over low heat until the squash is soft, about 20 minutes.

Drain well and add the butter, brown sugar, nutmeg, and salt. Whip with an electric mixer until smooth.

This recipe was submitted by Jon Grommons of Five Springs Farm CSA in Bear Lake, Michigan. Jon and his wife, Jacquelynn, became interested in their local CSA when they were restaurateurs in the area. If you can't get green coriander berries from your CSA, you can substitute ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro.

SUMMER KABOBS

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Combine the oil, lime juice, garlic, hot red pepper, salt, and coriander berries in a very large bowl. Set aside.

Boil the potatoes in salted water to cover until just beginning to soften but still quite firm, about 8 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon to a colander and drain well. Add the onions to the boiling water and cook for 3 minutes. Drain and plunge into ice water. Remove the onion skins, rinse the onions, and add to the potatoes.

Combine the drained potatoes and onions with the tomatoes, fennel, jalapeño peppers, zucchini, bell peppers, eggplant, and squash in the bowl with the oil-and-lime-juice mixture. Toss to coat the vegetables. Cover and refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours.

Preheat a grill. Thread all the vegetables except the tomatoes randomly onto 12 long metal or presoaked bamboo skewers. Thread the tomatoes onto 1 or 2 separate skewers. Grill the mixed vegetables over the hot coals for 10 to 15 minutes, until just tender. Turn and baste with the marinade frequently. Grill the tomatoes for 1 to 2 minutes.

To serve, with tongs, transfer a tomato to the end of each mixed-vegetable skewer.

Beth Staggenborg of Boulder Belt CSA in Cincinnati, Ohio, sent us this recipe. She said that she loves zucchini bread but wanted a recipe that wasn't so rich and full of fat, and that, surprisingly, it was difficult to find such an item. Eventually, she discovered the basics of this recipe on the Web and added some ingredients from other zucchini bread recipes and directions from her mother's cranberry bread recipe. It doesn't make a light loaf; it's rather dense, but the flavor is outstanding, the texture is nutty and crunchy, and it freezes well.

ZUCCHINI-BRAN BREAD

MAKES 2 (8-INCH) OR 3 (6-INCH) LOAVES

Preheat the oven to 325° F. Grease two 8-inch or three 6-inch loaf pans.

Beat together the eggs, oil, granulated and brown sugars, honey, and vanilla in a large bowl. Stir together the all-purpose and whole wheat flours, bran cereal, wheat germ, baking soda, cinnamon, and salt in a medium bowl; stir the flour mixture into the egg mixture to make a stiff dough. Fold in the zucchini, nuts, and raisins.

Divide the batter among the baking pans. Bake 8-inch loaves for 40 minutes, 6-inch loaves for 30 minutes. Let cool on a wire rack for at least 15 minutes before slicing.

We like to encourage people to think of making pumpkin pie all year round. Pumpkin freezes beautifully and there is no reason why it should be a fall-only treat.

PUMPKIN PIE

MAKES 8 SERVINGS

Preheat the oven to 450° F. Prepare the piecrust. On a floured board, roll out the pastry to make an 11-inch round; fit into a standard 9-inch pie pan. Fold over the edges of the dough and flute. Pierce the dough all over with a fork, then press a piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil directly into the pie shell. Bake for 6 minutes, remove the foil, and bake for about 4 more minutes, or until the shell is just beginning to brown. Remove from the oven and set aside.

Beat together the pumpkin puree, eggs, brown sugar, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, salt, allspice, and cloves in a large bowl. Gradually beat in the half-and-half until the mixture is smooth.

Pour into the pie shell and bake for 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to 300° F and continue baking for 30 to 40 minutes, until the filling is almost set. A sharp knife inserted slightly off center will come out almost clean. The center of the pie should not be completely firm. Let cool to room temperature and serve with whipped cream. Store any leftovers in the refrigerator.

Squash and apples are a natural combination; you just don't usually see them together in desserts. These spicy bars are a great way to pair these two items from your autumn CSA shares. This recipe comes from Mountain Harvest Organics in Hot Springs, North Carolina.

BUTTERNUT– APPLE CRISP BARS

MAKES 9 SERVINGS

Preheat the oven to 350° F. Grease a 9-inch square baking pan.

Combine the squash and apple slices with ½ cup of the brown sugar, the lemon juice, the cinnamon, and the cloves, tossing gently, in a large bowl. Turn into the prepared pan, cover with aluminum foil, and bake for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, combine the flour, the remaining ½ cup brown sugar, and the salt. Stir in the butter with a fork until crumbly. Add the nuts. Spread evenly over the squash-apple mixture. Bake uncovered for 40 minutes more. Cut into 9 squares; top with ice cream, if desired, and serve.