Norman’s chicken heart Bolognese
‘I’m a feeder. I love to cook for family and friends, an obsession passed onto me from my grandma or por por. I grew up in Hong Kong and spent much of my childhood in the kitchen with por por, preparing for the relatives to come and feast. I first discovered Feather and Bone in 2006, and I knew I’d found a kindred spirit when Grant started talking animatedly about pigs’ heads. I told him about my grandmother’s pig’s head terrine; he told me about curing pork jowls and lardo. Over time I’ve established an enduring friendship with Grant and Laura, and somewhere along the way I learned to place value in how the animals we eat are treated, how farming can be regenerative, the importance of the whole animal and the potential of supporting a different food system.
Eating offal can often be associated with frugality but these days I find myself actively seeking it because of its supreme flavour. I make my Bolognese with chicken heart not just because it’s cheaper than mince, but because I find this Bolognese to be more meaty, more savoury, and ultimately more tasty. Try it and see.’
Norman Lee, retail customer
Feeds: 4–6 | Preparation time: 20 minutes | Cooking time: 3 hours
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 brown onions, finely diced
1 carrot, finely diced
1 celery stalk, finely diced
100 g (3½ oz) pancetta (or bacon), finely diced
2 bay leaves
1 star anise
750 ml (26 fl oz/3 cups) tomato passata
1 kg (2 lb 4 oz) chicken hearts, untrimmed, minced
250 g (9 oz) chicken liver (optional), minced
2 tablespoons milk
Pasta or crusty bread, to serve
Preheat oven to 140°C (275°F). Take a heavy-based ovenproof saucepan and cut out a round of baking paper to fit in the pan. Set paper aside. Heat olive oil in the pan over medium heat. Add onions, carrot, celery and a large pinch of salt. Cook, stirring, for 5–10 minutes until softened and lightly caramelised. Add pancetta and cook, stirring occasionally, for 3–5 minutes until fat has rendered. Add bay leaves and star anise and stir to combine, then pour in passata and bring to a simmer. Add mince, breaking it up roughly with a wooden spoon, and bring the mixture back to a gentle simmer.
Cover the sauce with the circle of baking paper and transfer to the middle shelf of the oven. Bake for 2–3 hours until the sauce is reduced and thickened. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Stir in any crusty bits that have formed on the edge and add a dash of milk just before serving.
Serve over pasta or with crusty bread of your choice.