Norman’s vitello lingua tonnato

‘This dish is my nose-to-tail variation on vitello tonnato, that inexplicably wondrous cold Italian dish, which combines thin slices of veal (vitello) with tuna sauce (tonnato). Vitello tonnato typically uses veal girello, a very lean cut from the hind leg that is next to the veal nut and sometimes called eye of silverside. The girello is a tricky cut that needs careful poaching or cooking via sous vide to ensure slices are not overly dry. It was a “Eureka!” moment when I discovered beef or veal tongue is a more than desirable substitute. Tongue has an equally mild flavour but is also luxuriously tender and much more forgiving to prepare. Cooking tongue may seem intimidating but all you need is patience and a little care. As with many secondary cuts, a pressure cooker provides speed and efficiency.’

Norman Lee, retail customer

Feeds: 4–6 as antipasto | Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 2–3 hours | Special equipment: Pressure cooker (optional)

1 large beef tongue (or 2 veal tongues)

1 carrot, unpeeled and coarsely chopped

1 celery stalk, coarsely chopped

2 cloves

1 star anise

2 bay leaves

1 lemon, very thinly sliced into rounds

1 teaspoon baby capers, rinsed

Flat-leaf parsley leaves, to serve

Tonnato sauce

250 g (9 oz) tinned tuna in oil

2 hard-boiled eggs

2 anchovy fillets

1 teaspoon baby capers, rinsed

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Juice of ½ lemon

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

If you have a pressure cooker, place tongue, vegetables, spices, bay and 1 tablespoon salt in pressure cooker and cover with water. Heat until full pressure, then cook for 35 minutes. Remove from heat and allow pressure to release naturally until the lid can be opened (about 1 hour). Alternatively, combine ingredients in a large saucepan with 1 tablespoon salt, add water to cover, bring to the boil, reduce heat to low and simmer for 2–3 hours or until a skewer can pass through the tongue with only a little resistance.

Remove tongue from the pressure cooker or saucepan, reserving 125 ml (½ cup) poaching liquor. Cool briefly, then, while still warm, use a small knife to peel off the thick skin on the outside of the tongue (start from the sides to make it easier). Slice the peeled tongue crossways into 5 mm (¼ in) slices (this is important), cutting at an angle to obtain larger slices.

Combine the tonnato sauce ingredients in a food processor or blender and process until smooth. Add a splash of warm poaching liquor and blend to the consistency of a thin mayonnaise.

Spread tongue slices on a platter. Spoon over a thick layer of tonnato sauce, leaving a border of tongue undressed. Serve topped with lemon slices, capers, parsley and freshly ground black pepper.