Mercedes was smiling broadly as she opened the door for them. “Hola,” Mercedes said, and kissed her on the right cheek, then the left, then the right again. She recoiled, jumped back, not understanding exactly—since when was she supposed to be kissing strangers?—and the man told her that in Spain people say hello and give each other three kisses. To her, it appeared very odd, and he went on to explain that in France the habit is to give two kisses, one on each cheek. In Spain it was three.

At night, when she was introduced to Jorge, who also kissed her three times, she asked the man if she was supposed to kiss all the men in Barcelona, and he said that such was the custom, and it seemed a much nicer one to him than the limp handshake meted out by Israelis, as if they were doing you a favor. She agreed, recalling his firm handshake when they were first introduced and how impressed she had been by it.

“So why didn’t you kiss me three times when we were first introduced?” She laughed.

“Believe me, I wanted to.”

“Well, why didn’t you, then?” she insisted, laughing.

“Because you would certainly have slapped my face.”

Beyond the mandatory kisses, the two women were unable to exchange a single word. Like many Spaniards, Mercedes spoke no other language than Spanish and Catalonian. Mercedes was gorgeous and kindly and dressed in well-cut jeans, a button-up shirt, and killer heels, her taste exactly.

The man took her suitcase into the very small bedroom she would be using. Mercedes’s room was much more spacious, and the living room was very pleasant. The apartment was extremely clean, and it was only after she’d learned to say a few consecutive sentences in Spanish and stayed for lunch with them a few times that she witnessed how the efficient Mercedes came home from work at lunchtime carrying shopping, stuck a chicken in the oven, washed down the floor, and served her boyfriend, Jorge, a glass of whiskey, straight to the armchair in which he was sitting watching sports on TV. When the meal was over, Mercedes would quickly wash the dishes and tidy up the kitchen; if Jorge was feeling horny in the afternoon, she would follow him into her bedroom and emit a few moans and groans before rushing off back to work, to unlock the office from four thirty until eight thirty in the evening. She could never understand where this pleasant woman got all the energy to do so much work singlehandedly, while her boyfriend just sat there watching TV, and even to smile at him. Sometimes he’d get through half a bottle of whiskey during a single afternoon break. On such occasions, when he pushed Mercedes into their room, she would hear her moaning—but not with pleasure.

She wanted to unpack her suitcase and hang up the clothes she had brought for the next three months, but the man said that his parents were longing to meet her and had been waiting from the moment of her landing in Barcelona. She felt guilty for the time she had wasted buying glasses.

She was hungry, a hunger accumulated over three months of going without food in order to save enough money to fly to the country of her bridegroom-to-be.

The arrived at a swish apartment block, and he pulled into an underground parking garage, where he parked next to a brand-new BMW. “This is my parking space,” he explained, “and that’s my father’s car,” and when they stepped out of the car and into an elevator, she felt she as if she were in a movie.

On the tenth floor, the man opened the door, calling out “Mummy” and announcing in French that they had arrived. She was sorry now that she had stopped her French lessons at Tante Marie’s, but she understood a little, because it wasn’t unlike Romanian. They entered a square hall, with one wall covered in mirrors and green marble pedestals; the other side had two shiny wood doors with painted flowers. Next to the entrance stood a red-velvet-upholstered chair, on which the man placed his briefcase. The hall was the size of her parents’ living room.

A plump woman with ingenuous blue eyes walked toward them, smiling, and he went up to her to give her three kisses. Next, a distinguished-looking man with piercing blue eyes and a Kirk Douglas dimple in his chin came up to shake her hand. He introduced his parents, Luna and Alberto, and they remained standing, a little embarrassed, in the elegant hall. His father spoke fluent Hebrew and explained that he had learned the language when he belonged to the Hashomer Hatza’ir youth movement in Bulgaria. She spoke a stilted English with the mother, but the father and the man broke out in simultaneous translation as soon as she opened her mouth.

They entered the salon, and she caught her breath. It was very large, with two separate reception areas, one with a television, where they sat most of the time, and another, for guests, with wall-to-wall red velvet furniture. Leading off the salon was a dining area, containing a long table with enough room to seat sixteen. So there would be enough room for anyone wanting to eat.

She remembered that when they’d had all the uncles and aunts over for the seder, they’d had to spill over into the neighbors’ apartment to accommodate all sixteen diners. The table was laid for a festive meal—a white tablecloth embroidered with delicate pale blue flowers and matching napkins, on which the cutlery had been laid. Each place setting consisted of a large plate under a smaller one and two kinds of drinking glasses, one for wine and one for water. A stainless steel bowl lined with a white napkin contained small slices of baguette; several other small bowls contained diced red pepper, tomatoes, cucumbers, and onion; and there was another bowl filled with croutons.

She looked up at the crystal chandelier hanging from the dining room ceiling, at the beautiful pictures hanging in the salon, at the large ceramic figure on the parquet floor in the corner of the room, and at the elegant dishes on the dresser and wondered if her gift would appear pathetic among all this splendor. Still, she put her hand into the bag she had carried close to her heart throughout the flight and pulled out a small blue porcelain figurine, which she had bought with her sister on Tel Aviv’s Dizengoff Street. They had picked out the unique little piece simultaneously as soon as they laid eyes on it. The figurine was of a woman in profile, her head dropped sideways, a hand raised in doubt or pleading. Her body was soft, and her entire pose said, “Here I am, whether you want me or not.” A gentle woman, powerful, her clay eyes filled with compassion.

The figurine pleased his parents, and his mother gave it a place of honor on the dresser in the dining area. She felt wanted, and they sat down to eat their lunch. His mother sat at the head of the table, her usual place, and his father to her left, her son to her right, and she next to him.

Laura, the housemaid, brought in a large stainless steel soup tureen and laid it beside Luna at the head of the table. Luna served them all soup, first their guest, then herself, then her son and husband.

She was surprised to be served first; at home she had become accustomed to the men being served first, and only after them did the women get their food. Maybe it’s because I’m their guest, she thought, but in the evening, when the extended family arrived for dinner, she discovered that his mother made a habit of serving the women first and the men later, which she thought was an excellent arrangement.

The first course was gazpacho, and it was accompanied by a detailed explanation from Luna that this was a Spanish dish, a cold soup made from all the vegetables on the table, finely blended, with added water, vinegar, and ice cubes. The red soup looked especially refreshing to her and was eaten together with the diced vegetables on the table and the fried croutons. She watched the man to see what he was doing and did as he did, exactly as her sister, who had accompanied her to the airport, had instructed her. So as not to make a fool of herself, she was to watch everything the others did and do the same; place her napkin on her lap, take up a small amount on her spoon—not so little as to appear insulting or so much as to appear a glutton—take note of the cutlery they were using for each course, and of course, not confuse the water glasses with the wineglasses.

The soup was delicious, but when his mother asked if she wanted a second helping, she was too shy to accept. She was glad in retrospect that she hadn’t had another helping, because she was already full up after the second course, a Russian salad consisting of cooked vegetables in mayonnaise and coarsely cut pickled cucumber. Laura came around and collected the soup plates before handing the woman of the house the bowl of Russian salad, which she proceeded to serve first to her, then to herself, and finally to her son and husband.

The salad was tastier than the dish her mother made at home from cooked vegetables left over from the chicken soup. Here, obviously, the vegetables had been cooked especially for the salad.

“Is this a Spanish salad?” she wondered, and Luna explained that she cooked an eclectic variety of dishes from recipes she had picked up over the years. “The salad is a recipe I got from Ruth, my friend,” she said, “and I always make my own mayonnaise.” She didn’t understand how you could make your own mayonnaise, rather than buy it in the grocer’s shop.

The mayonnaise salad she ate with the small slices of baguette was so delicious that she was no longer annoyed at not being allowed to live with the man in a separate apartment.

Without asking, his father poured her a glass of wine, and they all said, “L’chaim.” The man asked her if she liked the wine, and she said, “Very much,” although she had no idea how to tell if a wine was good or not.

And again, Laura came in to collect the salad-soiled plates, and she didn’t know if she should get up to help; as the man didn’t stand up, she didn’t either. She thought later that she should have helped, and at dinner she did stand up to clear the table in spite of the housemaid, which in retrospect salvaged her reputation in his parents’ eyes.

Luna saved a portion of everything she had served for Laura, who ate her meal in the kitchen.

And again, Laura came in with a long stainless steel carving dish containing tender veal, which his father carved and his mother served out. Two small bowls, one with peas and the other with potatoes and onions, arrived alongside. The man piled her plate with generous portions of everything, as if suspecting that she was too shy to help herself; the veal was the most delicious meat she had ever eaten in her life.

She made a point of chewing everything carefully, as per her sister’s instructions, and most important—but really most important—not to forget to eat with her mouth closed. With every bite, she repeated over and over not to forget to keep her mouth closed. It’s very difficult to chew with your mouth closed. She didn’t say a word, worried that if she opened her mouth, she would forget to close it again when she was chewing. In any case, she was quite shy about saying anything, so she sat there, meekly listening to those who were wiser than she. This too was in accordance with her older sister’s orders to avoid making embarrassing gaffes in the home of a bourgeois family abroad, one of the pillars of the Barcelona Jewish community.

“Would you like to have some more garlic?” His mother interrupted her closed-mouth drill.

“No, why?” she said uneasily.

“Because I don’t cook with garlic. Alberto doesn’t like it, but I know that Romanians eat a lot of garlic.”

“Bulgarians, too,” added his father. “It’s just that I hate garlic.”

“Does your mother cook with garlic?” Luna asked.

“Yes, a lot of garlic,” she said. “My mother starts her morning with three cloves of garlic. For her blood pressure.”

“It’s healthy, garlic,” said Luna, “and really good against high blood pressure. I, personally, like garlic.” Later, with time, she taught Luna how to introduce garlic surreptitiously into her cooking without her husband noticing it; after all, good meat really does need to be cooked with some added garlic.

“Alberto has diabetes, so nothing we eat contains sugar….” His mother continued to share the family secrets with her.

As they finished eating the main course, they discussed the falling prices of gold ingots and agreed the time was not right for selling off those they had; she listened in silence, concentrating on the French and on his father’s Hebrew translation and her man’s translation into English; each sentence, as it was uttered, was translated simultaneously especially for her. After Laura had cleared away the dishes, and she had almost messed up by rising from the table—they had been seated for forty minutes and eaten three courses—Laura returned with a bowl of lettuce salad and fresh plates for everyone. She thought that Laura might have forgotten to serve the lettuce with the meat and now brought it to table, having just remembered. But it seemed that an experienced housemaid like Laura would never forget to serve something on time. Luna, who noticed her confusion, explained that in Paris they eat the lettuce salad after the main course, to ensure proper digestion. She took a little lettuce, which, of course was very tasty, but she was too shy to ask Luna about the dressing, which so enhanced the lettuce; and when the salad bowl had been removed and she was sure that this time they really had finished their meal, Laura returned with a wooden board on which pieces of every kind of cheese known to man were arranged. Various kinds of hard cheeses, Camembert, Brie, goat cheeses, every type of cheese except the regular yellow cheese she was used to at home. By this time she really had had enough and didn’t even try any of the cheeses; she had had enough to eat to last her for the next two years. And this was before she even knew that there was still a dessert course to follow and that coffee and cake were yet to be served, and before she know that the entire process would be repeated in the evening—a meal that would last for over an hour, or if they were entertaining guests, two hours—with first courses, second courses, main courses, lettuce salad, cheeses, fruit, followed by coffee and cake. She had never in her entire life eaten so much in a single meal, with every course being a delicacy. And twice a day, even.

No wonder his mother was somewhat plump.

Another twenty minutes passed before a signal was given and the man stood up from the table, saying, “Thank you very much” in French, and she hurried to follow him in case someone brought in another final course that was good for the digestion, saying, “Muchas gracias.” She thanked her hosts, not because that was what the man had done, but because it was what her parents had brought her up to do: each time you get up from the table, say, “Thank you very much,” for the food that was prepared for you.

He took her on a tour of the house and showed her the large rooms; even Laura’s room, which was attached to the kitchen, was a lot bigger than any of the rooms she had seen until then.

“Don’t you have a balcony in your house?” she asked him.

“Of course we do,” he was quick to reply, and led her to a fifty-foot-long balcony stretching from the dining area to the red velvet reception room.

The whole length of the balcony was filled with tubs of multicolored geraniums.

The balcony overlooked a smart office block without balconies. When she looked down from the tenth story, she saw cafés and bars packed to overflowing, with people milling around on the sidewalks waiting to get in.

“Don’t you ever sit out on the balcony?” she wondered, renowned aficionada of balconies that she was.

“Not really,” he replied.

“Pity,” she said, “you’re missing a connection with the outside.”

He pulled her from the balcony to show her his own spacious bedroom, and when she saw that he had a suite all to himself, a lavatory for his own use, and a bath and shower that he alone used each morning, she remembered the once-a-week bath she used to share with her sister.