As mac and cheese leaves the school cafeteria and takes its place on upscale restaurant menus, it begins to rub shoulders with luxury ingredients. The two you’ll find most often when cooking the recipes in this book are those prized crustaceans: lobster and shrimp.
Lobster mac and cheese is now a national trend, and you’ll find many recipes for it in this chapter. Lobster has a delicate and inherently sweet flavor, so the cheeses used with it need to be on the milder side to not overpower the lobster. While the recipes are written for lobster, cooked shrimp or lump crabmeat can be substituted in any of these recipes. So can small cubes of cooked white-fleshed fish fillets such as halibut or cod.
In addition to seafood, you’ll find a few recipes in this chapter for other species of fish. And the chapter concludes with an updated version of Tuna Noodle Casserole. While it’s crowned with a topping of crispy potato chips, that’s where the similarity to the oft-mocked classic (made with canned cream of mushroom soup) ends.
I’M VERY LUCKY BECAUSE MOST FISH MARKETS IN NEW ENGLAND sell precooked lobster meat. It’s a win-win situation; they have lobsters in the tank that they know are ready to go on Social Security, and they can salvage the lobster meat and fetch a premium price for it.
However, except in an emergency, I always prefer to cook lobsters myself. That way the meat can be slightly undercooked so that it doesn’t toughen in the mac and cheese, plus I’ll have the bodies available to make stock. If you are squeamish about cooking lobster and still remember the scene from the film Annie Hall, I’ll give you some pointers to make the task easier.
Cooking Lobsters
When you purchase lobsters, you want them to be frisky as they come out of the tank. Lobsters can stay alive in a tank for many days after they’re pulled from the ocean, but they slow down considerably. If they’re barely moving, ask to see another one, or go to another store.
Lobsters are frequently packed in seaweed, so ask the fish store if any is available. It gives the true taste of the sea to the lobsters if they’re cooked with it.
Almost all the lobsters you buy are small ones, called “chicken lobsters.” They range in size from 1¼ to 1½ pounds. To cook them, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Hold the lobster on its back, and insert it into the boiling water head first. Cover the pot, and bring the water back to a boil as quickly as possible.
The shell of the lobster turns bright red long before the meat is cooked through, so time is the only test of doneness. If you are cooking a lobster to eat on its own, cook 13 to 15 minutes after the water returns to a boil. However, for these recipes I’m recommending that they be removed after 12 minutes. The meat will still be slightly translucent, but it will cook further in the dish.
Cool the lobster under cold running water. Discard the rubber bands, and break the legs and claws off the body. For large lobsters, it’s worth the extra work of getting out choice tidbits of meat from the small walking legs and body, but for small lobsters, the goal is to extract the meat from the tail, claws, and arms, and then use the rest for making stock.
If you don’t have a lobster cracker, place a folded paper towel over the claws and hit them with a hammer. To gain access to the prized tail meat, just twist it off the body and pull the meat out with a seafood fork.
Seafood Stock
Once you’ve picked the meat from the lobster, it’s time to make stock from its remains. While only one of the recipes in this chapter uses stock as an ingredient, it’s a crime to just toss out the body. Lobster stock is such a wonderful ingredient to use in soups and sauces.
Discard the feathery gills from the outside of the body cavity and the small sack found at the top of the head. Break all shell fragments into small pieces with a lobster cracker, strong knife, or hammer. Cut the small walking legs into 1-inch segments, and break apart the body into small pieces.
MAKES 2 CUPS
Shells and other remains from 1 lobster (see above)
1 small onion, sliced
1 small carrot, sliced
1 celery rib, sliced
2 sprigs fresh parsley
1 sprig fresh thyme (substitute 1 teaspoon dried)
1 bay leaf
12 black peppercorns
Cover the lobster shell fragments with 2 quarts of water. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer the stock, uncovered, for 1¼ hours.
Strain the stock, and return it to the pot. Add the onion, carrot, celery, parsley, thyme, bay leaf, and peppercorns. Bring the stock to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to low and simmer the stock, uncovered, for 45 minutes. Strain the stock, pressing with the back of a spoon to extract as much liquid as possible. Return the stock to the pot, and reduce over medium heat until 2 cups remain.
Note: The stock can be refrigerated for up to 5 days or frozen for up to 3 months.
Variation: Substitute shells from 3 pounds of raw shrimp for the lobster shells.
MASCARPONE LOBSTER MAC AND CHEESE
Adapted from DiMillo’s on the Water, Portland, ME
Tony DiMillo started his first restaurant on a wharf in Portland in 1954, and his slogan was, “the clams you eat here today slept last night in Casco Bay.” The DiMillo family is still running this popular spot, although chef Melissa Bouchard now oversees the cooking. The menu continues to stress the region’s pristine seafood, but also includes some Italian specialties. The mac and cheese is topped with the same mixture used on DiMillo’s famous stuffed lobster.
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
½ pound farfalle
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
1 garlic clove, minced
2 tablespoons Cognac
1 cup lobster stock or shell-fish stock (page 97)
12 ounces mascarpone
3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan
5 ounces cooked lobster meat, diced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 small shallot, minced
1 tablespoon finely chopped red or yellow bell pepper
1 tablespoon dry sherry
¼ teaspoon dry mustard powder
1½ cups panko breadcrumbs
Preheat the oven to 375ºF. Grease a 13 x 9-inch baking pan.
Bring a pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Cook the pasta until it is just beginning to soften to the al dente stage. Drain the pasta, run it under cold water, and return it to the pot.
Heat 2 tablespoons of the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the garlic, and cook for 30 seconds. Add the Cognac and cook for 1 minute, or until the liquid is almost evaporated. Add the stock, and bring to a boil. Cook until the liquid is reduced by half. Whisk in the mascarpone and Parmesan.
Pour the sauce over the pasta, and stir well. Fold in the lobster, season to taste with salt and pepper, and transfer the pasta to the prepared pan.
Melt the remaining butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add the shallot and bell pepper, and cook over low heat, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes. Add the sherry and mustard, and cook for 2 minutes. Stir in the breadcrumbs, and mix well. Season the crumb mixture to taste with salt and pepper. Sprinkle the crumbs over the top of the dish.
Bake the casserole for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the cheese sauce is bubbly and the crumbs on the top are deep brown. Allow to sit for 5 minutes, then serve.
Note: To prepare the dish in advance or reheat it, follow the instructions on page 26.
ALTHOUGH THERE IS NO DIFFERENCE IN THE FLAVOR OF A MALE or female lobster, the bright red roe from the females adds a rosy color to stocks and can be sprinkled over salads as a garnish. To learn how to identify the female, ask your fishmonger to show you two lobsters of similar size—one male and one female. The one with the broader abdomen and tail is the female. The female also has smaller, more flexible swimmerets, which are the first pair of legs at the base of the tail.
LOBSTER MAC AND CHEESE WITH TARRAGON
Adapted from Seastar Restaurant & Raw Bar, Seattle, WA
Chef John Howie, who began the Seastar in Seattle in 2002 and now has an offshoot in nearby Bellevue, has been part of the dining scene in the Northwest for more than two decades. He was formerly chef at the Palisade Restaurant in Seattle, which featured Hawaiian influences. The chef is also the author of Passion & Palate: Recipes for a Generous Table.
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
½ pound macaroni
¼ cup (½ stick) unsalted butter
¼ cup finely chopped onion
2½ cups heavy cream
3 ounces fontina, grated
1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon
6 ounces cooked lobster meat, diced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
½ cup toasted plain breadcrumbs
1 ounce Cheddar, grated
1 ounce Asiago, grated
2 ounces (4 to 6 thin slices) Délice de Bourgogne
(substitute Explorateur or Saint André), for serving
2 tablespoons chopped fresh chervil, for serving
Bring a pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Cook the pasta until it is al dente. Drain the pasta, run it under cold water, and return it to the pot.
Heat the butter in a saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes, or until the onion softens. Do not let it brown. Increase the heat to medium-high, and stir in the cream. Bring to a boil, whisking frequently. Reduce the heat to low, and simmer the sauce for 15 minutes, or until reduced by one-third.
Add the fontina to the sauce by ½-cup measures, stirring until the cheese melts before making another addition. Stir in the tarragon.
Preheat the oven broiler. Grease a 13 x 9-inch baking pan.
Add the sauce to the pasta, and stir well. Fold in the lobster, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer the pasta to the prepared pan. Combine the breadcrumbs, Cheddar, and Asiago, and sprinkle it over the top of the dish. Broil the dish 6 to 8 inches from the broiler element for 1 to 2 minutes, or until the cheeses brown. Serve immediately, garnishing each serving with a slice of Délice de Bourgogne and some chervil.
Note: The sauce can be prepared up to 2 days in advance and refrigerated. Bring it to a simmer over low heat. Do not cook the pasta until just prior to serving.
LOBSTER MAC AND CHEESE WITH MARINATED TOMATOES
Adapted from The Fat Cat Restaurant, Quincy, MA
After extensive research, Quincy native Neil Kiley decided to open a restaurant in his hometown, a suburb of Boston, in 2008. The loyal following of this spot, with exposed brick walls and a large painting of an orange-eyed cat, are devoted to the repetoire of chef Thomas Coleman who heads the kitchen staff. His version of lobster mac and cheese is made with a combination of four cheeses and topped with flavorful marinated tomatoes, as well as crunchy panko.
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
½ pound cavatappi
2 ripe plum tomatoes, cored, seeded, and sliced
1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil (substitute ½ teaspoon dried)
2 garlic cloves, minced, divided
2 tablespoons dry white wine
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 cups heavy cream
4 ounces freshly grated Parmesan, divided
2 ounces Manchego, grated
2 ounces blue cheese, crumbled
2 ounces white Cheddar, grated
5 ounces cooked lobster meat, diced
½ cup panko breadcrumbs
Preheat the oven to 375ºF. Grease a 13 x 9-inch baking pan.
Bring a pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Cook the pasta until it is just beginning to soften to the al dente stage. Drain the pasta, run it under cold water, and return it to the pot.
While the pasta cooks, lay the tomatoes out on a plate. Sprinkle them with the basil, half of the garlic, and the wine. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and set aside.
Heat the oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add the remaining garlic, and cook for 30 seconds. Add the cream, and bring to a boil, stirring frequently. Reduce the heat to low, and simmer the cream for 2 minutes.
Reserve half of the Parmesan. Add the remaining Parmesan and other cheeses to the cream by ½-cup measures, stirring until the cheese melts before making another addition.
Pour the sauce over the pasta, and stir well. Fold in the lobster, season to taste with salt and pepper, and transfer the pasta to the prepared pan. Top the pasta with the tomato slices. Mix the reserved Parmesan and breadcrumbs together, and sprinkle it over the top of the dish.
Bake the casserole for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the cheese sauce is bubbly and the crumbs on the top are deep brown. Allow to sit for 5 minutes, then serve.
Note: To prepare the dish in advance or reheat it, follow the instructions on page 26.
NEXT TO FRANCE AND ITALY, SPAIN PRODUCES THE MOST CHEESES in Europe, and Manchego is the most famous. It comes from La Mancha, the land of Cervantes’ Don Quixote, and is made from sheep’s milk. It is ivory in color and has an almost nutty aroma and flavor.
TRUFFLED LOBSTER MAC AND CHEESE WITH MUSHROOMS AND TOMATO
Adapted from Lady Gregory’s, Chicago, IL
Lady Gregory’s, which opened in 2011 in the Andersonville section of Chicago, is an upscale Irish pub that boasts a whiskey list of more than three hundred options. It’s named for Isabella Augusta Persse, later Lady Gregory, who co-founded the Irish Literary Theater with William Butler Yeats in 1899. Owned by Munster Taverns, the same company that owns Wilde Bar & Restaurant, Lady Gregory’s serves this elaborate version of now-popular lobster mac and cheese as a signature dish.
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
½ pound cavatappi
¼ cup (½ stick) unsalted butter, divided
2 ounces fresh shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and sliced
2 ounces fresh Portobello mushrooms, stemmed and diced
3 garlic cloves, minced, divided
1 teaspoon fresh thyme (substitute⅛ teaspoon dried)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
3 tablespoons dry white wine
3 ripe plum tomatoes, cored, seeded, and diced
2 cups heavy cream
8 ounces sharp Cheddar, grated
6 ounces cooked lobster meat, diced
2 tablespoons white truffle oil, divided
¼ cup chopped white onion
¾ cup crumbled cornbread
Preheat the oven to 375ºF. Grease a 13 x 9-inch baking pan.
Bring a pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Cook the pasta until it is just beginning to soften to the al dente stage. Drain the pasta, run it under cold water, and return it to the pot.
Heat 3 tablespoons of the butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the shiitake mushrooms, Portobello mushrooms, two-thirds of the garlic, and thyme. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring frequently, for 5 to 7 minutes, or until the liquid evaporates and the mushrooms brown. Add the wine and tomatoes, and cook for 2 minutes, or until the wine almost evaporates. Whisk in the cream. Bring to a boil, whisking frequently. Reduce the heat to low, and simmer the sauce for 2 minutes.
Add the cheese to the sauce by ½-cup measures, stirring until the cheese melts before making another addition. Pour the sauce over the pasta, and stir well. Fold in the lobster and 1 tablespoon of the truffle oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and transfer the pasta to the prepared pan.
Melt the remaining butter in a small skillet, and add the onion and remaining garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, for 3 minutes, or until the onion is translucent. Mix in the crumbled cornbread, and sprinkle it over the top of the dish.
Bake the casserole for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the cheese sauce is bubbly and the crumbs on the top are deep brown. Drizzle the remaining truffle oil over the top. Allow to sit for 5 minutes, then serve.
Note: To prepare the dish in advance or reheat it, follow the instructions on page 26.
WITH ALMOST ALL FRESH HERBS, THE SUBSTITUTION RATIO FOR the dried form is 1 tablespoon fresh to 1 teaspoon dried. One exception to this, however, is thyme. The leaves are so small once dried that I’ve found that ½ teaspoon dried produces the same flavor as 1 tablespoon fresh.
SPICY SHRIMP MAC AND CHEESE
Adapted from Co Co. Sala, Washington, D.C.
The name stands for the two prime ingredients featured on the menu—chocolate and coffee—sala being the Italian word for “lounge.” Co Co. Sala, which opened in 2008, is a chocoholic’s fantasy come true. The kitchen is headed up by Santosh Tiptur, a native of India who was formerly executive pastry chef at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel in San Juan, Puerto Rico. While the décor features spun sugar sculptures and the menu includes flights of dishes like chocolate-covered bacon, there is a small segment of savory dishes for those in need of sustenance prior to the sugar rush, and one of the most popular is this spicy mac and cheese.
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
½ pound small penne
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 small onion, chopped and divided
1 bay leaf
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 cups whole milk, warmed
2 ounces Gruyère, grated, divided
1½ ounces jalapeño Jack, grated
1½ ounces freshly grated Parmesan
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 jalapeño or serrano chiles, seeds and ribs removed, finely chopped
1½ teaspoons Cajun seasoning
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon ground coriander
1 ripe plum tomato, cored and diced
4 ounces medium raw shrimp, peeled and deveined
1½ teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
½ cup plain breadcrumbs
Preheat the oven to 375ºF. Grease a 13 x 9-inch baking pan.
Bring a pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Cook the pasta until it is just beginning to soften to the al dente stage. Drain the pasta, run it under cold water, and return it to the pot.
Heat the butter in a saucepan over medium-low heat. Stir in 2 tablespoons of the onion and the bay leaf, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 2 minutes. Stir in the flour and cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute, or until the mixture turns slightly beige, is bubbly, and appears to have grown in volume. Increase the heat to medium, and slowly whisk in the warm milk. Bring to a boil, whisking frequently. Reduce the heat to low, and simmer the sauce for 2 minutes.
Reserve ½ cup of the Gruyère. Add the remaining cheeses to the sauce by ½-cup measures, stirring until the cheese melts before making another addition. Stir in the nutmeg. Remove and discard the bay leaf. Set aside.
Heat the olive oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add the remaining onion and garlic, and cook, stirring frequently, for 3 minutes, or until the onion is translucent. Add the chiles, Cajun seasoning, cumin, and coriander, and cook for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Add the tomato and cook for 2 minutes, or until the vegetables soften. Add the shrimp, lemon juice, and cilantro, and cook for 2 minutes, or until the shrimp are pink.
Pour the sauce over the pasta, and stir well. Fold in the shrimp mixture, season to taste with salt and pepper, and transfer the pasta to the prepared pan. Mix the reserved Gruyère and breadcrumbs together, and sprinkle it over the top of the dish.
Bake the casserole for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the cheese sauce is bubbly and the crumbs on the top are deep brown. Allow to sit for 5 minutes, then serve.
Note: To prepare the dish in advance or reheat it, follow the instructions on page 26.
IT’S COMMON TO SEE JALAPENO AND SERRANO CHILES GIVEN as recipe options in the same quantity, although serrano peppers are much smaller. They are also much hotter, so the larger jalapeño and the small serrano produce the same amount of heat.
SHRIMP SCAMPI MAC AND CHEESE
Adapted from Cheese-ology Macaroni & Cheese, St. Louis, MO
Cheese-ology is a trailblazer in its region for having an all-mac menu. Chef and owner Bill Courtney decided to leave his job as a medical researcher after more than a decade, and fell in love with the all-mac concept when visiting places such as Macbar and S’MAC in New York. His storefront spot is right near Washington University, and all its hungry students. He keeps the cheeses in this dish mild so that the lemon and garlicky flavor of the shrimp emerge.
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
½ pound macaroni
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
8 ounces medium raw shrimp, peeled and deveined
3 garlic cloves, minced
Salt to taste
1 teaspoon lemon pepper seasoning
¼ cup all-purpose flour
2 cups whole milk, warmed
¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
4 ounces whole-milk mozzarella, grated
3 ounces mild provolone, grated
1 ounce freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
½ cup panko breadcrumbs
Preheat the oven to 375ºF. Grease a 13 x 9-inch baking pan.
Bring a pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Cook the pasta until it is just beginning to soften to the al dente stage. Drain the pasta, run it under cold water, and return it to the pot.
Heat 2 tablespoons of the butter in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add the shrimp and garlic and cook, stirring frequently, for 4 to 5 minutes, or until the shrimp are pink. Season to taste with salt and lemon pepper. Add the shrimp to the pan with the pasta.
Heat the remaining butter in a saucepan over medium-low heat. Stir in the flour and cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute, or until the mixture turns slightly beige, is bubbly, and appears to have grown in volume. Increase the heat to medium, and slowly whisk in the warm milk. Bring to a boil, whisking frequently. Reduce the heat to low, stir in the nutmeg, and simmer the sauce for 2 minutes.
Add the cheese to the sauce by ½-cup measures, stirring until the cheese melts before making another addition. Pour the sauce over the pasta, and stir well. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and transfer the pasta to the prepared pan. Sprinkle the breadcrumbs over the top of the dish.
Bake the casserole for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the cheese sauce is bubbly and the crumbs on the top are deep brown. Allow to sit for 5 minutes, then serve.
Note: To prepare the dish in advance or reheat it, follow the instructions on page 26.
DO NOT EQUATE THE WORDS “FRESH SHRIMP” WITH SHRIMP that have never been frozen. Truth be told, you probably will be unable to find never-frozen shrimp fresh from the ocean these days unless you have a shrimper friend or net it yourself. This is not necessarily a bad thing. Nowadays, shrimp is harvested, cleaned, and flash-frozen on the boats before they ever reach the shore. But if you buy shrimp that you plan to freeze, ask the fishmonger to sell you some still frozen rather than thawed in the case. When you keep thawing and refreezing shrimp it breaks down the cell fibers and they can become mushy.
MAC AND CHEESE ALLA AJILLO
Adapted from MacDaddy’s Mac & Cheese Bar, Monroe, CT
Monroe is a sleepy village in popular Fairfield County, and serves as a bed-room community for people who work in New York and nearby Stamford, Connecticut. MacDaddy’s opened in 2011, and offers snack-sized portions of its twenty-plus dishes. One of the most popular is this shrimp version, which includes a bit of sherry, as well as a combination of cheeses.
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
½ pound macaroni
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 garlic clove, minced
4 ounces raw small shrimp, peeled and deveined
1 tablespoon cream sherry
1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
¼ cup (½ stick) unsalted butter
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 cups whole milk, warmed
3 ounces Asiago, grated
2 ounces whole-milk mozzarella, grated
Bring a pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Cook the pasta until it is al dente. Drain the pasta, run it under cold water, and return it to the pot.
Heat the oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds. Add the shrimp and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the shrimp are pink. Add the sherry and lemon juice, and cook for 1 minute. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and set aside.
Heat the butter in a saucepan over medium-low heat. Stir in the flour and cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute, or until the mixture turns slightly beige, is bubbly, and appears to have grown in volume. Increase the heat to medium, and slowly whisk in the warm milk. Bring to a boil, whisking frequently. Reduce the heat to low, and simmer the sauce for 2 minutes.
Add the cheese to the sauce by ½-cup measures, stirring until the cheese melts before making another addition. Add the sauce to the pasta, and stir well. Fold in the shrimp mixture, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Cook over low heat until the pasta is hot and coated with the sauce. Serve immediately.
Note: The sauce, with the shrimp mixture folded in, can be prepared up to 2 days in advance and refrigerated. Bring it to a simmer over low heat. Do not cook the pasta until just prior to serving.
THE WAY YOU TREAT GARLIC DETERMINES THE INTENSITY OF its flavor. Pushing the cloves through a garlic press is the way to extract the most punch. Mincing the cloves once they’re peeled produces a milder flavor.
CHESAPEAKE CRAB MAC AND CHEESE
Adapted from The Nook, Charlottesville, VA
Charlottesville is known for the Jeffersonian architecture of the University of Virginia, and it’s also a tourist destination on the East Coast. The building in which The Nook is housed dates from the 1880s, and there has been a restaurant on the ground floor since 1912. During the winter months there is a special mac and cheese menu, and this succulent dish with lump crabmeat is one of the most popular dishes.
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
½ pound fusilli
¼ cup (½ stick) unsalted butter
¼ cup all-purpose flour
2 cups whole milk, warmed
3 ounces mild yellow Cheddar, grated
2 ounces Monterey Jack, grated
1½ ounces Asiago, grated
1½ teaspoons Old Bay seasoning
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
3 ripe plum tomatoes, cored, seeded, and diced
6 ounces lump crabmeat, picked over well
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Bring a pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Cook the pasta until it is al dente. Drain the pasta, run it under cold water, and return it to the pot.
Heat the butter in a saucepan over medium-low heat. Stir in the flour and cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute, or until the mixture turns slightly beige, is bubbly, and appears to have grown in volume. Increase the heat to medium, and slowly whisk in the warm milk. Bring to a boil, whisking frequently. Reduce the heat to low, and simmer the sauce for 2 minutes.
Add the cheese to the sauce by ½-cup measures, stirring until the cheese melts before making another addition. Add the Old Bay, nutmeg, and tomatoes to the sauce, and simmer for 1 minute.
Add the sauce to the pasta, and stir well. Gently fold in the crabmeat, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Cook over low heat until the pasta is hot and coated with the sauce. Serve immediately.
Note: The sauce can be prepared up to 2 days in advance and refrigerated. Bring it to a simmer over low heat. Do not cook the pasta until just prior to serving.
NEW ENGLAND CLAM MAC AND CHEESE
This recipe has all the wonderful creaminess of a classic New England chowder, but the subtle cheese makes it even richer and more delicious. A key to the mild seafood flavor is reduced clam juice.
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
½ pound macaroni
1 pint fresh minced clams
1 (8-ounce) bottle clam juice
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
1 teaspoon fresh thyme (substitute ¼ teaspoon dried)
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
1 medium onion, diced
2 celery ribs, diced
¼ cup all-purpose flour
2 cups heavy cream, warmed
4 ounces fontina, grated
2 ounces mascarpone
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
¾ cup crushed saltines
Preheat the oven to 375ºF. Grease a 13 x 9-inch baking pan.
Bring a pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Cook the pasta until it is just beginning to soften to the al dente stage. Drain the pasta, run it under cold water, and return it to the pot.
Drain the clams and reserve the juice, pressing them with the back of a spoon to extract as much of the clam juice as possible. Refrigerate the clams, and transfer the clam juice to a saucepan. Add the bottled clam juice, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium, and add the parsley and thyme. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is reduced by two-thirds.
Heat 4 tablespoons of the butter in a saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the onion and celery, and cook, stirring frequently, for 5 to 7 minutes, or until the vegetables soften. Stir in the flour and cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute, or until the mixture turns slightly beige, is bubbly, and appears to have grown in volume. Increase the heat to medium, and slowly whisk in the reduced clam juice and the warm cream. Bring to a boil, whisking frequently. Reduce the heat to low, and simmer the sauce for 2 minutes.
Add the clams, and cook for 2 minutes, or until the clams are cooked. Add the cheese to the sauce by ½-cup measures, stirring until the cheese melts before making another addition.
Pour the sauce over the pasta, and stir well. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and transfer the pasta to the prepared pan. Melt the remaining butter, and mix it with the cracker crumbs. Sprinkle the mixture over the top of the dish.
Bake the casserole for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the cheese sauce is bubbly and the crumbs on the top are deep brown. Allow to sit for 5 minutes, then serve.
Note: To prepare the dish in advance or reheat it, follow the instructions on page 26.
Variations:
•Add ½ cup crumbled bacon to the dish, and substitute 2 tablespoons bacon grease for 2 tablespoons of the butter.
•Substitute 6 ounces cooked cod, halibut, or any white-fleshed fish fillet for the clams. Fold the fish gently into the dish after the sauce has been added to the macaroni and stirred well. Also, substitute 1½ cups of fish stock for the clam juice.
FRESH MINCED CLAMS ARE FOUND TODAY IN ALMOST EVERY supermarket, either in the fish case or frozen. But if you turn to canned clams for this or any other recipe, add them to the dish without any further cooking because they’re already cooked and will become rubbery.
DILLED SALMON MAC AND CHEESE
This is a wonderful dish for parties because it’s both elegant and easy to eat. I’ve always been fond of adding aromatic fresh dill to creamed salmon dishes, and including little bits of smoked salmon creates a far more complex flavor.
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
½ pound campanelle
¼ cup (½ stick) unsalted butter, divided
4 ounces fresh salmon fillet, skinned
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 shallots, minced
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 cups half-and-half, warmed
3 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
6 ounces mascarpone
2 ounces freshly grated Parmesan
1 ounce smoked salmon, chopped
Preheat the oven to 400ºF. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Cook the pasta until it is al dente. Drain the pasta, run it under cold water, and return it to the pot.
Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter, and rub it on both sides of the salmon. Season the salmon with salt and pepper, and enclose it in a square of heavy-duty aluminum foil. Bake the salmon for 10 to 12 minutes, or until it is cooked through and flakes easily. When cool enough to handle, break the salmon into 1-inch pieces.
Heat the remaining butter in a saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the shallots, and cook, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes, or until they soften. Stir in the flour and cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute, or until the mixture turns slightly beige, is bubbly, and appears to have grown in volume. Increase the heat to medium, and slowly whisk in the warm half-and-half. Bring to a boil, whisking frequently. Reduce the heat to low, and simmer the sauce for 2 minutes.
Stir in the dill, lemon juice, and lemon zest. Add the cheese to the sauce by ½-cup measures, stirring until the cheese melts before making another addition. Stir in the smoked salmon, and simmer for 1 minute.
Add the sauce to the pasta, and stir well. Gently fold in the salmon, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Cook over low heat until the pasta is hot and coated with the sauce. Serve immediately.
Note: The sauce can be prepared up to 2 days in advance and refrigerated. Bring it to a simmer over low heat. Do not cook the pasta until just prior to serving.
There’s nothing wrong with this cafeteria standard that replacing the can of cream of mushroom with a porcini cheese sauce doesn’t fix. It’s still topped with crushed potato chips, and while your childhood memories might not include sautéed vegetables, they certainly enhance both the flavor and texture.
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
½ pound curly egg noodles
½ cup dried porcini mushrooms
½ cup seafood stock or chicken stock, heated to boiling
¼ cup (½ stick) unsalted butter, divided
1 small onion, diced
2 celery ribs, diced
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 cups whole milk, warmed
2 tablespoons dry sherry
½ teaspoon fresh thyme (substitute a pinch dried)
2 ounces whole-milk mozzarella cheese, grated
2 (5-ounce) cans chunk tuna packed in water, drained and broken into chunks
¾ cup frozen peas, thawed (optional)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 (1.5-ounce) bag potato chips, crushed
Preheat the oven to 375ºF. Grease a 13 x 9-inch baking pan.
Bring a pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Cook the noodles until they are just beginning to soften to the al dente stage. Drain the noodles, run them under cold water, and return them to the pot.
Soak the mushrooms in the boiling-hot stock for 10 minutes, pushing them down into the liquid with the back of a spoon. Drain the mushrooms, reserving the stock. Chop the mushrooms, and set aside. Strain the stock through a sieve lined with a paper coffee filter or paper towel, and set aside.
Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and celery, and cook, stirring frequently, for 5 to 7 minutes, or until the vegetables soften. Scrape the vegetables into the pot with the noodles.
Return the saucepan to the stove, and melt the remaining butter over medium-low heat. Stir in the flour and cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute, or until the mixture turns slightly beige, is bubbly, and appears to have grown in volume.
Increase the heat to medium, and slowly whisk in the warm milk, reserved stock, sherry, and thyme. Bring to a boil, whisking frequently. Stir in the mushrooms, reduce the heat to low, and simmer the sauce for 2 minutes, or until thickened. Add the cheese to the sauce by ½-cup measures, stirring until the cheese melts before making another addition.
Pour the sauce over the noodles, and stir well. Gently fold in the tuna and peas, if using. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and transfer the mixture to the prepared pan. Sprinkle crushed potato chips over the top of the dish.
Bake the casserole for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the sauce is bubbly and the crumbs on the top are deep brown. Allow to sit for 5 minutes, then serve.
Note: To prepare the dish in advance or reheat it, follow the instructions on page 26.
IN THE PAST FEW YEARS, CANS OF TUNA HAVE BEEN SUBJECTED to the same downsizing as other shelf-stable foods. They’re now five ounces and not the previous six, in the same way that a one-pound can of beans is now fifteen ounces and cans of tomatoes shrank even more. While this dish was formulated using the smaller can size, if your old recipes call for a few cans of tuna, you may consider adding an additional can.