Balencea
ITALIAN
454 ST KILDA ROAD, MELBOURNE
(03) 9867 4466 • MAP P.295
LICENSED
OPEN MON & TUES NOON–3PM, WED–FRI NOON–LATE, SAT 6PM–LATE
ENTREES $6–$9, MAINS $17–$34, DESSERTS $12–$18
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
Pitched at the St Kilda Road serviced apartments, Balencea plays the role of entertainer to the fly-in, fly-out corporate set. That is, business types wining and dining other business types. Inside, it’s decked out in steel colours, cool, sleek lines and a plasma screen, while in the warmer months there’s bluelit alfresco dining. Expect a generic brand of sophistication and service that’s attentive – if a little self-conscious – and heavily garnished with ‘sir’s and ‘certainly’s. The real warmth of this place arrives on your plate, in the form of excellent modern Italian cuisine. The crispy-skinned roasted half-duck in a Campari and blood orange glaze, with roasted parsnip purée and watercress salad, manages to be both comforting and luxurious at the same time. Or try the very hearty veal cotoletta with kipfler potato, roasted capsicum and lemon. There’s also an invaluably accessible list of mainly local wines to see you through the evening. If you can embrace a corny kind of glamour, you’re in for a respectable night out.
Benito’s
ITALIAN
445 LITTLE COLLINS STREET, MELBOURNE
(03) 9670 5347 • MAP P.281
LICENSED
OPEN MON–FRI 7AM–10PM
ENTREES $11–$16, MAINS $27–$33, DESSERTS $10–$13
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Benito’s, with its leather booths, wooden interior, moody lighting and large marble bar, has a loyal following. From the early morning, it’s usually full of business types or the young hospitality crowd getting their caffeine fix and breakfast before work. The atmosphere, though bustling, is extremely laidback, aided by the competent, casual and fast-moving staff. The menu here stretches over breakfast, lunch and dinner with a simple rice pudding or bacon and egg panino on offer in the morning. As the day progresses, the dishes become more robust, with a duck and mushroom ragu stirred through a bitey pappardelle; braised rabbit legs; perfectly cooked grass-fed scotch fillets with broccolini, a punchy mustard butter and horseradish; and their signature housemade lasagne with free-range pork and a vibrant pesto. The restaurant is known to morph into a wine bar once it gets dark, with a small wine list strong in Italian and boutique Australian varieties.
Bistrot d’Orsay
FRENCH
184 COLLINS STREET, MELBOURNE
(03) 9654 6498 • MAP P.278
LICENSED
OPEN MON–SAT 9AM–LATE
ENTREES $18.50–$20.50, MAINS $26.50–$39.50, DESSERTS $15.50–$17.50
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
There is an air of pretension upon entering Bistrot d’Orsay which, instead of being confronting, is warming, even familiar. From the ornate ceiling and dark wood to the deep burgundy leather benches and crisp white tablecloths that fill the small space, it feels as if you’ve stepped back in time to dine alongside nineteenth-century writers. Smells of fresh bread waft throughout while the chattering hum of customers creates a comfortable aura. If pâté is your thing, then definitely start with the in-house recipe of brandied duck liver with cornichons. And the juxtaposition of ingredients and flavours in the ham terrine dish is deliciously structured. For vegetarians, there’s the risotto of baby spinach, gorgonzola and roasted tomato coulis or the pan-fried gnocchi with field mushrooms, but meat does dominate (it is French cuisine, after all). Go for the pomme frites or, for a healthier side, some blanched green beans. If you’re out for lunch – and hungry – take advantage of the set menu: $35 for two courses and a glass of wine.
Bistro Vue
FRENCH
430 LITTLE COLLINS STREET, MELBOURNE
(03) 9691 3838 • MAP P.281
LICENSED
OPEN TUES–FRI 11AM–LATE, SAT 6.30PM–LATE
ENTREES $3.50–$38, MAINS $31–$79, DESSERTS $14
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
The recreated Parisian bistro decor of Vue de Monde’s smaller, humbler brother sets the scene for a simple, more affordable menu, which will please those with a hankering for good-quality, classic French cuisine. Caviar, three types of oysters and a comprehensive range of seriously French hors d’oeuvres will get you started, including garlic snails, onion soup and fois gras in brioche. The seafood pasta with Giovanni Fabbri Tuscan spaghetti borrows from France’s southern neighbours and is presented in a sweet seafood broth reduction with generous seafood additions and thick al dente pasta. The premium grain-fed beef will melt in your mouth. Though not as personalised, the service is as attentive as at Vue de Monde. The staff here love their food as much as you will. Hot tip: at just $32, the weekday plat du jour with a glass of wine and salad is an affordable way for those on a budget to experience this fine diner.
Bokchoy Tang
CHINESE
LEVEL 2, THE CROSSBAR BUILDING, FEDERATION SQUARE, CORNER FLINDERS AND SWANSTON STREETS, MELBOURNE
(03) 9650 8666 • MAP P.279
LICENSED
OPEN DAILY 11.30AM–1AM
ENTREES $8–$18, MAINS $18–$58, DESSERTS $8–$12
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
The good thing about a large, well-established Chinese restaurant is that the service is fluid, meals are delivered in a timely manner, and the expectation that you get what you pay for is not an idealised one. Bokchoy Tang is this sort of dining experience. The expansive space, the buzz of boisterous diners mingled with live piano and the sounds and aromas of an open kitchen are all ingredients for an easy-going meal out on the town. The place is alive with people and the fact the kitchen is so open is an invitation to enjoy the act of cooking as a part of the overall dining experience. Families are more than welcome and large parties are catered to. The menu is massive, with a broad range of seafood, poultry, meat and vegetarian options. The duck spring rolls are a nice starting point, married with the tofu hot pot and finished with a traditional dessert like the pumpkin pancakes – a sweet way to finish a large meal.
Bottega
ITALIAN
74 BOURKE STREET, MELBOURNE
(03) 9654 2252 • MAP P.277
LICENSED
OPEN MON–FRI NOON–3PM, 5.30PM–11PM
ENTREES $18–$24, MAINS $23–$38, DESSERTS $16.50–$24
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Sometimes safe is good. At Bottega, safe is very good, thanks to a reliable Italian repertoire and professional service. Sleek lines and leather booths scream business lunch, but evening diners slip into something more comfortable, as dimmed lights create intimate sections. A seemingly unremarkable menu conceals dishes lifted by quality produce and great execution. The lime-cured Hiramasa kingfish entree is delicate, and pasta selections lean away from rich standards. Such lightness is fortunate, because mains are large. Try the mammoth twiceroasted half-duck or be deceived by a small square of Western Plains pork belly, so perfectly cooked that stopping halfway isn’t an option. Big Australian reds seem appropriate in this setting but there are just as many enticing Italians. Dessert decadence is avoided with bright coconut and citrus flavours received gratefully after the preceding protein onslaught. Despite a string of chefs over time, Bottega’s menu changes rarely and consistency is admirable. Safe dining as it should be.
Butchers Grill
GRILL
141 BOURKE STREET, MELBOURNE
(03) 9639 1222 • MAP P.277
LICENSED
OPEN MON–FRI NOON–LATE, SAT 5PM–LATE
ENTREES $9–$18, MAINS $24–$66, DESSERTS $15–$22, BANQUETS $49–$69
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
LOCATION ALSO IN DOCKLANDS
If you’re looking for a belt-loosening dinner, Butchers Grill is happy to oblige. This award-winning establishment takes its meat cuts very seriously and offers a selection of premium steaks and banquet options. The decor complements the decadent menu with a classic European feel. Get past the understated street facade and it’s all white linen tables, chandeliers and ornate wallpapers. Despite the upmarket furnishing, the ambience is relaxed and friendly, with a mix of suits, families and couples on any given night. The wine list provides a similar range, featuring everything from house reds by the glass to some genuinely impressive vintages. While prices reflect the premium quality of the ingredients and the location, they’re in line with similar restaurants. A yearling steak starts at $34 while the Black Angus will set you back $66. If you’re as serious about your meat cuts as Butchers Grill you’ll find this a culinary delight. Be warned: you may need a nap to recover from the generous portions.
Caboose Canteen
CONTEMPORARY
4 CITY SQUARE, MELBOURNE
(03) 9663 4448 • MAP P.278
LICENSED
OPEN DAILY 7AM–LATE
ENTREES $6–$17, MAINS $22–$30, DESSERTS $12
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
Ground-level open views are rare in Melbourne’s central business district. Caboose Canteen, however, has a nice vantage point from its hideaway under the Westin hotel in the perennially contentious but now comfortably worn-in City Square. Cool and casual, Caboose serves gourmet versions of canteen classics: the house burger, for instance, comprises wagyu steak, tomato relish and rocket on sesame brioche and is served with frites (not chips). The menu limits your decision to just five choices, but each is simple and flavourful. Local wines and craft beers are the go here, and when the sun is shining the best seat in town might just be on the slatted benches out front – a great spot to watch Melburnians coming and going, and to admire the beautiful heritage architecture of this historic intersection.
Caffee Biscotti
ITALIAN
41 BLOCK PLACE, MELBOURNE
(03) 9650 7705 • MAP P.278
LICENSED
OPEN MON 7AM–5PM, TUES–SAT 7AM–10PM, SUN 9AM–3.30PM
ENTREES $14.50–$22, MAINS $18–$34.50, DESSERTS $12
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
To ‘do the block’ has been a quintessential Melbourne experience since the famous Block Arcade was built in the early 1890s. Caffee Biscotti is distinguished from the other cafes and restaurants on this tiny lane by its distinctive wooden bar and colourful tout out front, who lends a little old-world charm to this busy strip. Inside you’ll find a robust selection of traditional mains, including a tender porterhouse steak, seasonal soups and rich pastas. Look out for the freshly prepared seafood dishes, which are a house speciality. The restaurant itself is a study in Melbourne laneway romanticism, with its exposed brickwork, black and white historic photos and bentwood chairs. The bar is well stocked for late-night aperitifs, and whisky lovers will appreciate the list on hand. It’s just a shame that the serviettes are cheap, because this reliable little stalwart feels like a cloth napkin restaurant.
Cecconi’s Cantina
ITALIAN
BASEMENT, 61 FLINDERS LANE, MELBOURNE
(03) 9663 0222 • MAP P.279
LICENSED
OPEN MON–FRI NOON–3PM, 5.30PM–11PM, SAT 5.30PM–11PM
ENTREES $25–$30, MAINS $29–$44, DESSERTS $14–$19
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
A family birthday, a romantic interlude, a client lunch or a big win at the races – Italian restaurants are all about special occasions and Cecconi’s Cantina fits the mould. Tucked off Flinders Lane in a classy basement setting, this smooth Italian is all linen tablecloths and bellezza, perfect for high spirits and good impressions, with a wine list to match. The reading of specials is a theatrical, albeit lengthy, monologue but the real entertainment comes from the open kitchen. This grand stage dominates the room from the centre and chef Daniel Kranjcic parades out Italian classics from antipasti, primi, pasta, secondi and dolci. Brave is the diner who attempts the full spread, with portion sizes large enough to make any nonna proud. Expect to waddle out round-bellied, unable to restrain yourself from the oxtail ravioli and the duck breast with prosciutto-rolled leg. Service can slow a little, a blessing that allows time to find room for desserts, like the gooey-centred, decadent chocolate pudding. A quick concluding coffee and you’ll be rolling on your way.
The Cellar Bar, Grossi Florentino
ITALIAN
80 BOURKE STREET, MELBOURNE
(03) 9662 1811 • MAP P.277
LICENSED
OPEN MON–SAT 7.30AM–LATE
ENTREES $8–$22, MAINS $16–$25, DESSERTS $8–$12
NO BOOKINGS
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Operating for more than eighty years, Grossi Florentino is a Melbourne fine-dining institution. Much less formal, though equally loved, is its Cellar Bar, Grossi’s shopfront and enoteca. Part bohemian cafe, part intimate eatery, the Cellar Bar is both sophisticated and comforting, an elegant yet homely place that feels straight out of Milan. Chef Guy Grossi keeps the Cellar food simple, featuring favourites served without fuss. The simple one-page menu is pure Italian, a traditional list of food that has a little something for everyone – a bite to nibble on with a glass of wine, a plate of pasta for speedy dining, a lavish three-course meal or a sweet treat with accompanying coffee. Whether you’re in the mood for a comforting minestrone or lasagne, or something a little more grown up, the Cellar Bar will have you covered. They’re even open from early morning for the classiest breakfast in town. Because of its small size and cafe style, the Cellar is not ideal for groups, and solo diners perched at the bar are common.
China Red
CHINESE
SHOP 6, 206 BOURKE STREET, MELBOURNE
(03) 9662 3688 • MAP P.276
LICENSED & BYO
OPEN SUN–THURS 11.30AM–10.30PM, FRI & SAT 11.30AM–11PM
DIM SUM $6–$12, MAINS $16–$26.80, DESSERTS $7–$10.80
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
Ever since HuTong first opened its doors in Market Lane a few years ago, fans of dumplings have been flocking to the flagship restaurant, and its sister, south of the river in the Cullen. Now, the HuTong empire has opened up its latest incarnation, China Red, in the arcade where the Village cinemas once stood. With fairy lights, elevator music, dark wood furniture and Maoist wallpaper, China Red is kitsch but authentic. Here, the novelty is ordering with the touch of a button on LCD screens beside each table. All you have to do is click what you want and then click for the bill. The hardest thing about eating here is deciding what to order, as the menu offers a staggering 270-odd, mostly Sichuan, dishes, from seafood claypots to stir-fries, soups and traditional desserts like mango combo with sago. But don’t worry, China Red still has favourites like mouth-watering broth-filled shao long bao, peking duck dumplings, pork buns and wontons in chilli oil. While they might be pricier than the usual Chinatown dumplings, they’re a lot nicer too.
Chocolate Buddha
JAPANESE
FEDERATION SQUARE, CORNER FLINDERS AND SWANSTON STREETS, MELBOURNE
(03) 9654 5688 • MAP P.278
LICENSED
OPEN DAILY NOON–10PM
ENTREES $6–$9, MAINS $14.50–$23, DESSERTS $10–$13.50
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Deciding where to eat at Fed Square can sometimes feel a little bit ‘same old, same old’. Sure, there are plenty of great Italian and Mediterranean pizza/pasta places to choose from, but what if you’re after something a little more unusual? Chocolate Buddha might not be totally out there when it comes to food style – after all, it is your stock-standard Japanese – but the drawcard here is in the product. All dishes are made using local and organic produce, free-range eggs, beef and locally farmed chicken, and wow, does it make all the difference. Succulent, big chunks of fleshy meat inject life into all the regular staples like ramen, teriyaki don and yaki udon. With stacks of vegetarian and gluten-free options, slurping soup noodles or sharing green gyoza has never been such a pleasure. Generous portions make up for the haphazard service, and chummy communal tables still fill up even midweek. It’s more expensive than your regular Asian fare, but it’s also well above average quality in this neck of the woods.
Coda
CONTEMPORARY
BASEMENT, 141 FLINDERS LANE, MELBOURNE
(03) 9662 2117 • MAP P.279
LICENSED
OPEN DAILY NOON–3PM, 6PM–10.30PM
ENTREES $3.80–$24, MAINS $38, DESSERTS $12–$24
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
Coda is the lovechild of some big Melbourne restaurant names: chef Adam D’Sylva (ex Longrain, Pearl) and managers Mykal Bartholomew (ex MoVida) and Kate Calder (ex Taxi). The result is a share menu with European and Asian influences and a stylish but edgy restaurant inhabiting a dimly lit concrete bunker. Choosing can be difficult but the affordably priced, extensive list of small plates means you can taste widely – from freshly shucked oysters with mirin and pomelo through quail with daikon salad to the signature Coda rollof bone marrow, ginger and shiitake mushroom. Larger plates include Asian curries, which are well matched to the salads of wombok, palm and melon. Eating at the bar provides the best vantage point for watching the kitchen and floor staff in action. You might see the occasional mishap, but the team is good-humoured, knowledgeable and super-swift with its service.
Comme Kitchen
CONTEMPORARY
7 ALFRED PLACE, MELBOURNE
(03) 9631 4000 • MAP P.279
LICENSED
OPEN MON–FRI 7AM–LATE, SAT 5PM-LATE
ENTREES $14-$36, MAINS $35-$46, DESSERTS $7–$17
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
It’s a refined affair at Comme Kitchen, in keeping with both its geographical location and the punters who hang there. Because while it caters to the top end of Collins’s corporate, suit types – those who appreciate mod style and laidback business lunches – its subtle flair appeals to the new wave of hip professionals in pink-accented ties and pinstripes who expect a little cool in their decadence. That is to say, Comme has expertly negotiated the balance of understated and funky. The huge building comprises an upstairs of two rooms for functions and meetings, tastefully refurbished in that distinctive Comme style, and downstairs, the informal bar and Comme bistro dining, with a French-inspired menu – delicious braised Burgundy snails, crisp confit garlic served with lardons and champignons and parsley mousse. The dining room is intimately scaled, warm and luxurious, with black-stained parquetry, bench-seat couches lining one wall and an open fireplace. Keep it in mind for an executive breakfast or coffee and pastries from 7am.
Cumulus Inc.
EUROPEAN
45 FLINDERS LANE, MELBOURNE
(03) 9650 1445 • MAP P.279
LICENSED
OPEN MON-FRI 7AM-11PM, SAT & SUN 8AM–11PM
ENTREES $6-$22, MAINS $12-$69, DESSERTS $2.50-$17
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
Unafraid of some jumpin’ beats over lunch, Cumulus has energetically boarded the old-meets-new refurbishment train, merging upmarket chic with street-level hip. From the folks who brought you Fitzroy’s Cutler & Co., Cumulus is situated in the heart of Melbourne’s old rag trade, now the heartland of the fashion precinct on Flinders Lane. This reclaimed factory building, sharing with an art gallery space upstairs, mixes an earthy farmhouse vibe with cutting-edge modern: the light-filled space houses plants potted in rusty old tins, old-school wooden shoe-stretchers suspended from the wall and distressed wooden floorboards with über-mod, shiny chrome light fittings, sleek design and loft-style windows. Lounge at the long tables, or perch at one of the bars, either with window views out onto Flinders Lane, or alongside the kitchen, where you can watch the magic happen. It’s a breakfast, lunch and dinner affair, with the à la carte menu boasting prize catches like oysters, slow-cooked octopus, a huge charcuterie selection and a good range of cheese, as well as a very notable wine list.
Ezard
CONTEMPORARY
187 FLINDERS LANE, MELBOURNE
(03) 9639 6811 • MAP P.278
LICENSED
OPEN MON–FRI NOON–2.30PM, 6PM–LATE, SAT 6PM–LATE
ENTREES $24.50–$28.50, MAINS $44–$68, DESSERTS $20.50–$48
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
The room at Ezard feels quintessentially Melbourne, with classic dark timber and long lengths of linen. It's been at the top of Melbourne’s restaurant experiences for the past eleven years, and the team continues to deliver warm, inviting service alongside Teage Ezard’s menu. With strong Asian influences, the food itself is highly textural, with layers of flavour that develop into something quite singular as you eat. To start, you may opt for the Japanese-inspired oyster shooter or the open wagyu beef burger with foie gras, quail’s egg, smoked tomato and truffle mayonnaise. It’s hard to go past the stock-infused pork hock, coated in a syrup-like caramel chilli sauce and fried for a delicious crispiness around the soft, sweet, gelatinous meat. Vegetarians and vegans are not to be deterred, as menus are easily developed for those with dietary requirements if the restaurant is notified when you book. The desserts are almost too beautiful to eat, but that is the air that Ezard holds – of refinement and distinction.
The French Brasserie
FRENCH
2 MALTHOUSE LANE, MELBOURNE
(03) 9662 1632 • MAP P.279
LICENSED
OPEN MON–FRI NOON–3PM, 6PM–10.30PM, SAT 6PM–10.30PM
ENTREES $15–$19, MAINS $28–$39, DESSERTS $16
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Melbourne’s Paris end is a fitting location for a classic French dining spectacle, but you won’t find flamboyant frogs at the French Brasserie. Instead, this understated venue quietly goes about the business of delivering quality French fare and calm, professional service. Tucked down Malthouse Lane, the unassuming location conceals a lofty setting that’s dramatic in its simplicity. The Parisian bistro feel at ground level is dwarfed by towering, sky-high ceilings and picture windows, further accentuated by the room’s long, skinny dimensions. The refined menu sticks to classics – escargot, French onion soup, duck confit and bouillabaisse – and chef Lionel Abello’s house-made terrines deserve special mention for their authenticity. Desserts are a little limited, but crème brûlée, citrus tart and chocolate gateau tick off the most important food groups. It might be wise to skip this course altogether and concentrate instead on some of the finest wine that both France and Australia have to offer. Just be warned: glass filling is near invisible thanks to the unobtrusive waiters. You may find time flies more quickly than you think.
Gill’s Diner
EUROPEAN
360 LITTLE COLLINS STREET, MELBOURNE
(03) 9670 7214 • MAP P.278
LICENSED
OPEN MON NOON–5PM, TUES–FRI NOON–11.30PM, SAT 6PM–11.30PM
ENTREES $3–$20, MAINS $28–$39
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
Gill’s Diner is yet another venue tucked away down an alley – in this case, behind a jewellery shop and a bakery. But what a pleasant little discovery this is. From the man behind the Supper Club and Journal et al, Gill’s Diner is a confident and self-assured pastiche of French and Italian flavours, set within a schoolhouse design aesthetic. The dining space is light and bright, and it does get busy (booking is almost always essential) so be prepared for it to get raucous at night. The blackboard menu changes frequently, which is testament to the freshness and seasonality of the ingredients – most of which come from Victoria and Tasmania. The food is rustic, with an emphasis on generously served, hearty, slow-cooked dishes that are sure to satisfy. The short wine list also spotlights boutique local producers and is much lauded – and so is the bread, so be sure to make room for a carb load.
Grossi Florentino
ITALIAN
80 BOURKE STREET, MELBOURNE
(03) 9662 1811 • MAP P.277
LICENSED
OPEN MON–FRI NOON–3PM, 6PM–11PM, SAT 6PM–11PM
ENTREES $3.50–$260, MAINS $22–$120, DESSERTS $5–$35, DEGUSTATION $140–$190
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Grossi Florentino is a living, breathing, edible piece of Melbourne history. A formidable dining institution since 1928, it has fed a wide range of distinguished palates over the past eighty years. Now owned by Guy Grossi, renowned chef and restaurateur, this restaurant continues its reputation for Italian fine dining. Grossi Florentino is divided into three sections: the cheeky Cellar Bar, genteel Grill Room and rarefied Restaurant upstairs. Enjoy the theatrical, casual ambience of the Cellar Bar as seasoned waiters serve hearty plates of pasta with a dash of flamboyance. Or go one notch up next door at the Grill Room, which has the air of a gentlemen’s club. Catering to the busy corporate crowd, it has an established bistro menu that is not meant to surprise. The Restaurant is the pinnacle of the Grossi gastronomical voyage. Dishes here are exquisite examples of classic and remodelled Italian cuisine among formal, grand surroundings. With a backdrop of dark wood panelling and elegant crystal chandeliers, the food, room and service make dining here a memorable and very special experience.
Hairy Canary
MEDITERRANEAN
212 LITTLE COLLINS STREET, MELBOURNE
(03) 9654 2471 • MAP P.278
LICENSED
OPEN SUN–THURS 9AM–1AM, FRI & SAT 9AM–3AM
MAINS $11.50–$43, DESSERTS $12.50–$15
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
It sounds like a cross between a pet shop and a biker hangout. But there are no cages, feathery birds or hairy men (depending on your company). Instead you’ll find a long, thin room and comfy banquette, small round tables, a well-stocked bar and a soft yellow glow. An intimate, warm and inviting cafe, bar and restaurant all rolled into one cleverly disguised little package. Suits, breakfast junkies, partygoers and fashionistas flock here for purgatory eggs in the morning, wood-fire pizzas at lunch, and itty bitty tapas like skewered lamb and mint, pesto and arancini balls for dinner. Hairy Canary isn’t the cheapest place in Melbourne given the size of the meals, but it’s got a sophisticated air about it that makes it great for a date or a special occasion. For this reason it gets really busy, especially over the weekend, so book ahead. The wooden stools at the windows at the front are an ideal spot for sipping cocktails and people-watching.
Hako
JAPANESE
310 FLINDERS LANE, MELBOURNE
(03) 9620 1881 • MAP P.278
LICENSED
OPEN MON–FRI NOON–3PM, 6PM–10PM, SAT 6PM–10PM
ENTREES $4.50–$17, MAINS $17.50–$38, DESSERTS $10–$15
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
Just down the road in Degraves Street, Hako garnered an almost cult following for its great lunchtime bentos. And in its shiny, new and much larger location this charming restaurant still specialises in quick and tasty lunches for busy business types, and long relaxed dinners for the post-work crowd and time rich. Headed up by former Kuni’s chef Masahiro Horie, the kitchen produces simple, unique and cliché-free Japanese dishes, with a heavy focus on seafood, but something for everybody. The design echoes the factory-floor origins of its location, with the ubiquitous dangling naked light bulbs extending from a glossy black ceiling that mirrors the glossy chocolate floorboards. The decor is simple almost to the point of minimalist, but food comes served on gorgeous Japanese crockery, amping up the beauty factor somewhat. Not quite as hidden-away as it was before, Hako’s new location doesn’t seem to have dampened its popularity. The quiet, classy air about the place remains, and the simple, delicious food will have you coming back for more.
Hare & Grace
CONTEMPORARY
525 COLLINS STREET, MELBOURNE
(03) 9629 6755 • MAP P.281
LICENSED
OPEN MON–FRI 11.30AM–3.30PM, 6PM–LATE
ENTREES $18–$22, MAINS $36–$45, DESSERTS $15–$18
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Combine a chef with a background in molecular gastronomy and interior design by Joost Bakker and you’d be forgiven for thinking that you’re in for a dining experience that pushes the boundaries. But chef Raymond Capaldi steps back from his experiments to present dishes that are tasty and comforting without raising eyebrows. The upside-down smokewood branches, vintage-style wall paintings and recycled crate tabletops set the mood as one that’s quirky and somewhat whimsical. The food also follows this theme, taking classic dishes such as roasted chicken and vegetables and turning it on its side with a sweetcorn spread and gingerbread butter. The specials of the day should be considered, as they give you the opportunity to see Capaldi’s twist on dishes that are not as common, such as his fish pie with a fifty-fifty mash (50% potato, 50% butter), a combination that’s rich and full of flavour. With attentive staff, one of the most interesting interiors in any Melbourne restaurant, and an experienced chef recreating himself, this is definitely a place to keep your eye on.
Il Bacaro
ITALIAN
168–170 LITTLE COLLINS STREET, MELBOURNE
(03) 9654 6778 • MAP P.278
LICENSED
OPEN MON–THURS NOON–3PM, 6PM–10.30PM, FRI & SAT NOON–3PM, 6PM–11PM
ENTREES $18–$22, MAINS $26–$42, DESSERTS $17–$18
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Melbourne has quite a saturation of Italian restaurants, so it takes something special for a restaurant of this cuisine to shine. There is plenty about Il Bacaro to make it a hidden gem in the city centre. An unassuming frontage makes it easy to pass by, but should you find yourself drawn inside, this is not a place to disappoint. The tables are intimate, the service is good without being obtrusive, and the Italian-inspired food is presented with a lot of love and attention. Though Maurice Esposito is no longer here, the quality of the cooking still displays a passion that shines in the presentation and fresh flavours of a menu focusing on seasonal produce. The Moreton Bay bug pasta is one of the absolute stand-outs on offer here – simple seasonings allow the fresh seafood flavour to be the star. If you’re looking for a sweet ‘something’ to follow, the chocolate pudding is smooth and will see you swooning even as you step out the door.
Il Solito Posto
ITALIAN
BASEMENT, 113 COLLINS STREET, MELBOURNE
(03) 9654 4466 • MAP P.279
LICENSED
OPEN MON–FRI 7.30AM–1AM, SAT 9AM–1AM
ENTREES $14–$22, MAINS $16–$42, DESSERTS $12–$15
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Nestled deep within the corporate heart of Melbourne, Il Solito Posto is often bursting at the seams with (mostly corporate) customers. If there is one thing this restaurant does superbly, it is knowing its target market. Luckily, there’s more than one thing. The staff are very well trained – elegantly poised, confident and unobtrusive. What they may lack in warmth, they make up for with efficient service and formal professionalism. The muted lighting and background music attempt a softer, warmer atmosphere but the noise can be loud; it seems to rebound off the dome-shaped cement ceiling of the dining room and the many wine bottles resting in shelving along the walls. The food is a little bit fancy and pricey, but it is delicious and, at that end of town, worth the money. The fine-dining menu is not laden with options, but there’s enough to satisfy most appetites and the quality is excellent. As with all good Italian restaurants, it favours simplicity in its food. The result is a very elegant meal.
The Italian
ITALIAN
SHOP 16, 101 COLLINS STREET, MELBOURNE
(03) 9654 9499 • MAP P.279
LICENSED
OPEN MON–FRI 6AM–2.30PM, 6PM–10PM, SAT 6PM–10PM
ENTREES $16.50–$26.50, MAINS $23.50–$49, DESSERTS $16
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
The mystique of many fine-dining establishments is held in the build-up to the actual eating: finding the restaurant, taking in its first sights, sounds and aromas, noting the attention to detail. The Italian, overlooking Flinders Lane, satisfies all expectations, and surpasses them as soon as the first beautifully arranged plate of food is placed in front of you. The whole place oozes clean-lined elegance, with crisp white linen, low lighting, soft jazz music floating from speakers, the quiet hum of couples dining together and a luxurious menu of seafood, meats and vegetarian options from which to choose. The octopus and school prawn carpaccios are stand-out, remarkable dishes, with simple, absolutely satisfying foundations of flavours like fennel, chilli and citrus. If you’ve had your fill of savoury, try the profiteroles with praline ice cream and chocolate sauce. If you’ve overdone it, opt for the lighter homemade gelato. Pricing is not for the faint-hearted but each dollar spent is a perfect trade-off for this beautiful food.
Izakaya Den
JAPANESE
BASEMENT, 114 RUSSELL STREET, MELBOURNE
(03) 9654 2977 • MAP P.276
LICENSED
OPEN MON–FRI NOON–2.30PM, 5.30PM–LATE, SAT 5.30PM–LATE
ENTREES $6–$10, MAINS $10–$18, DESSERTS $6–$14
BOOKINGS FOR GROUPS OF 5 OR MORE
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Blink and you could easily miss the hidden entrance to one of Melbourne’s newest best kept secrets. Izakaya Den is bypassable, in an über-chic kind of way. It could be mistaken for trying too hard, but as soon as you walk through the curtains and descend the stairs, you’re automatically transported into another world. Bandana-clad chefs, friendly waitstaff and groovin’ tunes are the perfect antidote to what could be an intimidating industrialised setting. Although Izakaya Den is definitely more restaurant than pub (an izakaya is a Japanese pub), customers are encouraged to order bar bites, and share them among friends – the traditional izakaya way. Be sure to taste one of their daily specials, as well as the wagyu tataki with wasabi cream … ah-mazing. The food definitely isn’t what Australia considers traditional Japanese fare – it’s better, with a lot more spunk to it. But be warned: although you can book for lunch, dinner is more difficult – be sure to arrive stylishly early or fashionably late to secure your best seat in the house.
Kenzan
JAPANESE
45 COLLINS STREET, MELBOURNE
(03) 9654 8933 • MAP P.279
LICENSED
OPEN MON–FRI NOON–3PM, 6PM–LATE, SAT 6PM–LATE
ENTREES $5.50–$24, MAINS $33–$55, DESSERTS $8–$14
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
LOCATION ALSO IN CBD
Kenzan is the quiet achiever of Melbourne’s Japanese restaurant scene. Open for almost thirty years in the Collins Place shopping complex, it is a favourite of locals and expatriate Japanese alike. The restaurant has a muted decor, with neutral walls and carpets, and some noren (Japanese curtains). There are also two traditional Japanese-style dining rooms, separated from the remaining space with sliding screens. Kimono-clad waitresses slip in and out of the dining room, providing attentive yet unobtrusive service. The drinks list is comprehensive, and patrons can enjoy wines, beers or sake to complement their meals. The menu veers towards classic, rather than cutting-edge, but with food of this quality, who’s complaining? The sushi and sashimi combination is an amazing treat. Spanking fresh fish, with perfectly executed sashimi, maki-sushi, nigiri-sushi and lightly dressed oysters, are stunningly presented in a large platter. Other options include crispy tempura; beef, salmon or chicken teriyaki; and wonderfully warming sukiyaki and shabu-shabu. All the classics, prepared with skill and care, make Kenzan the destination in Melbourne for excellent Japanese cuisine.
The Kitchen Cat
ITALIAN
BASEMENT, 115–117 COLLINS STREET, MELBOURNE
1300 799 415 • MAP P.279
LICENSED
OPEN MON–SAT NOON–3PM, 6PM–10PM
ENTREES $4–$18, MAINS $20–$85, DESSERTS $12–$27
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
When Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen announced its closure and rebirth as Toby Puttock’s own restaurant, many diners were keen to see how this would work and whether it would be an improvement. Thankfully, Puttock has done an exemplary job of making this into his own project and the food also stands by his reputation for simple, elegant fare. Previous Fifteen diners will also be glad to know that the portion sizes have increased, from degustation to proper meal–worthy. With huge ham hocks, salamis and sausages hanging from the ceiling, the Kitchen Cat unabashedly proclaims its dedication to all things meat. This is also reflected in a menu which is very scant on vegetarian options, with most offerings featuring meat or fish of some kind. While the menu is not extensive, there’s enough choice to have you musing for a few minutes. If you get stuck, the spaghetti with meatballs is a safe but special treat, with its roasted cherry tomato sauce.
La Citta
ITALIAN
11 DEGRAVES STREET, MELBOURNE
(03) 9014 8824 • MAP P.278
LICENSED
OPEN DAILY 7AM–10PM
ENTREES $23–$27.50, MAINS $28–$38, DESSERTS $15–$27
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
At first glance, La Citta appears pure Degraves Street: a small restaurant with some outdoor seating serving a mixed clientele of tourists and locals. A second glance reveals more. With a sedate but luxurious interior and quiet, efficient staff, La Citta is definitely a cut above. Its quality is reflected in its modern European menu. There are classy tapas to nibble on, such as baby whitebait fritters and whole chargrilled quail. Or go all-out with a three-course meal of pasta, Italian classics like veal osso bucco and slow-braised pork belly, and crème brûlée for dessert. The food is all buttery indulgence – that is, a little on the heavy side – so settle in and take your time over each course; the wine list ensures that making a night of it is an option. La Citta also operates at breakfast and has a daily lunch special. So whether it’s for a morning latte or a romantic meal in the city, La Citta is an ideal place to escape the bustle of Degraves and linger for a while.
La Vita Buona
ITALIAN
7 CITY SQUARE, MELBOURNE
(03) 9654 7855 • MAP P.278
LICENSED
OPEN MON–SAT 11.30AM–1AM, SUN 11.30AM–11PM
ENTREES $7–$22.50, MAINS $18–$24, DESSERTS $12
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
Though City Square is now always bustling with clientele, La Vita Buona remains something of a hidden gem – perhaps due in part to its proximity to the global coffee chain next door. With just a few chairs scattered out front, you’d think La Vita Buona trades in wine only, but a tiny entrance leads to a snug back room with seating for twenty-odd around a faux fireplace, and there’s a private dining room for another ten beyond. Dimly lit, La Vita Buona is well suited to cosying couples. The cuisine is regional Italian, with an emphasis on fresh antipasti, and there’s an interesting mozzarella bar of some local but mostly imported cheeses. The à la carte menu, which changes seasonally, is rustic: think peperonata, puttanesca, fagioli, hearty pastas and a mouth-watering slow-cooked stew. The staff are sometimes indifferent to their clientele, which is great if you don’t want to be disturbed, but they know their stuff and are well equipped to advise on food and wine matching.
Maha
MIDDLE EASTERN
21 BOND STREET, MELBOURNE
(03) 9629 5900 • MAP P.281
LICENSED
OPEN SUN–FRI NOON–3PM, 6PM–10PM, SAT 6PM–10PM
ENTREES $3.50–$8, MAINS $7.50–$16, DESSERTS $3.50–$5.50, BANQUETS $75–$125
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Maha is a great place to start, or end, a night out. Stools near the bar are perfect for drinks and finger food and a separate front area is a relaxed meeting place for friends. In the main restaurant, low lights and sumptuous surrounds create an impressive background for equally impressive food. Chef Shane Delia has put together a menu that overwhelms with its verve (and detail) – try the pambula single seed oyster kataifi, with puffed barbecued corn, smoked almonds, tomato and sumac foam. Off the dessert menu, Turkish delight–filled doughnuts with rosewater honey and roast almond ice cream are a Maha speciality, and go enticingly well with a muscat from their brimming wine list. Trouble deciphering? Go for a soufra banquet, which allows diners to share an authentic meal of mezze, larger meat plates and sweets. The Sultan’s Feast is a step up, with Delia’s choice of eight courses. Attention to detail abounds here, from the garnishes to the Scotch served on its own wooden pallet with a small bucket of ice and soda on the side.
Mamasita
MEXICAN
LEVEL 1, 11 COLLINS STREET, MELBOURNE
(03) 9650 3821 • MAP P.279
LICENSED
OPEN MON–WED NOON–MIDNIGHT, THURS NOON–12.30AM, FRI NOON–2AM, SAT 5PM–2AM
ENTREES $4.40–$13, SMALL DISHES $5–$16, LARGE DISHES
$18–$30, DESSERTS $6–$11
BOOKINGS FOR GROUPS OF 8–10
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Located at the Paris end of Collins Street, Mamasita (Spanish for ‘hot mama’) has done much to elevate Mexican food – often regarded as novelty food – to the realm of haute cuisine. This goes some way to explaining the lengthy queue down the flight of stairs leading into the noisy, character-filled dining hall. Find your way inside and you’re greeted by a close arrangement of tables, all crowded with small groups, making your dining experience a cosy one, whether you like it or not. Those in the know recommend starting with elotes callejeros – street-style chargrilled corn. After that, tostaditas and tacos plates are designed to share, while the quesadillas and the ‘family’-sized plates will abate any hunger. If you’re adventurous, try the taco de lengua y mejilla – braised veal tongue and ox cheek with ghost chilli mayonnaise. Reservations are only available for groups of eight to ten – they can opt for Mamasita’s chef’s selection banquet; everyone else is served on a walk-up basis. So get there early or run the risk of holding your pre-dinner conversation on the stairs.
Merchant
ITALIAN
RIALTO, 495 COLLINS STREET, MELBOURNE
(03) 9614 7688 • MAP P.281
LICENSED
OPEN MON–FRI 7AM–11PM, SAT NOON–11PM
ENTREES $8–$15, MAINS $12–$45, DESSERTS $14.50
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
You know you’ve made it as a celebrity chef when your face starts getting plastered around supermarkets, television and cookbooks. While Guy Grossi has certainly done well for himself in recent years, his success all ties back to his original business – restaurants. Grossi has helped reinvent modern Italian cuisine and Merchant is the latest addition to his empire. A casual, busy restaurant, Merchant takes its themes and inspiration from the Shakespearean play it’s named after. There’s a full-sized gondola out the front, the staff dress in nautically themed colours and the general ambience is much more Roman Holiday than any of Grossi’s other, more serious restaurant endeavours. The menu complements all this, providing simple but delicious meals with a contemporary edge. The risotto moro (squid ink risotto) might not look too appealing but it has quickly become a signature dish. If you’re feeling adventurous, there’s plenty here to keep you busy – and on the wine list too, which focuses heavily on obscure northern Italian bottles.
Mess Hall
ITALIAN
51 BOURKE STREET, MELBOURNE
(03) 9654 6800 • MAP P.277
LICENSED
OPEN MON–FRI 7.30AM–LATE, SAT & SUN 8AM–LATE
ENTREES $13.50–$16.50, MAINS $15.50–$29.50, DESSERTS $11.50–$17.50
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
The name may conjure up images of a room full of hungry young men with buzz cuts but this cafe-by-day, restaurant-bynight is altogether a more civilised affair. Sparsely furnished and simply decorated, Mess Hall serves rustic northern Italian fare, including simple thin-crust pizzas and modern pastas (beetroot pappardelle with asparagus, peas and ricotta; pumpkin casoncelli with sage butter, amoretti and almonds). Meats are interestingly paired: the pork belly with cucumber; the lamb loin with smoked eggplant, fennel and mint. The entrees, salads and sides are more traditional but no less satisfying. Desserts range from house-made biscuits to the tiramisu, indulgently prepared with mascarpone in individual serves, which makes it among the best in Melbourne. Its proximity to the theatre district makes it great for pre- or post-show dinner and drinks, but book ahead for Friday nights, when the place packs out with office workers.
MoMo
MIDDLE EASTERN
LOWER PLAZA LEVEL, 123 COLLINS STREET, MELBOURNE
(03) 9650 0660 • MAP P.279
LICENSED
OPEN TUES–SAT 6PM–10.30PM
ENTREES $26–$30, MAINS $46–$50, DESSERTS $20–$37
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
This is Middle Eastern dining taken to a truly luxe level. Head chef Greg Malouf has defined and redefined modern Middle Eastern cuisine for over a decade with MoMo. Its latest iteration, within the Grand Hyatt (down the decidedly more luxurious end of Collins Street) was spared no expense in creating a most elegant dining experience. The high-backed chairs, fully glassed entrance and gorgeous chandeliers set a mood of absolute opulence. Mind you, you’ll pay for it with every dollar here, though the pricey dishes are served in pretty generous quantities. The wine list, notoriously extensive, cuts no corners and the menu is unique but not intimidating. The gastronomic influences run deep, with fragrant hints of North Africa and Persia throughout. The kifta nayee, however, is a gorgeous example of Malouf’s Lebanese heritage coming to the fore – his spicy, textured take on the traditional dish is a perfect starter. Malouf’s greatest talent is most certainly his aromatic seafood, and the Turkish fish stew (with garlic mussels and roasted flounder steak) is fragrant, delicious and as charismatic as the setting.
MoVida
SPANISH
1 HOSIER LANE, MELBOURNE
(03) 9663 3038 • MAP P.279
LICENSED
OPEN DAILY, NOON–LATE
SMALL DISHES $3.50–$7, LARGE DISHES $7–$50, DESSERTS $10–$21
NO LARGE BOOKINGS
VISA, MC, AMEX, DINERS
There is an intense feeling of anticipation when you first walk into MoVida from the graffitied laneway. An open kitchen allows the smell of spices and fresh bread to waft through the warm space, and the air buzzes as staff dart around with the most perfect food and drink for expectant diners, who sit, chatting and laughing boisterously (and why wouldn’t you, if you managed to get a table here?). Frank Camorra’s menu is deliciously imaginative and too hard to choose from. Should it be the mussel stuffed with dried chorizo and lemon aioli or the chilled summer soup with cured tuna loin? The air-dried wagyu with poached egg and truffle foam or the ovenroasted Portobello mushrooms in sherry vinegar (not just for vegetarians)? Grab a selection of tapas and raciones – serving sizes are small, designed for sharing – and come with a hefty appetite and a healthy budget. You don’t want to be thinking about limits when you dine at MoVida. Bookings have up to a three-month wait, or try your luck as a walk-in.
MoVida Aqui
SPANISH
500 BOURKE STREET, MELBOURNE
(03) 9663 3038 • MAP P.281
LICENSED
OPEN MON–FRI NOON–LATE, SAT 6PM–LATE
SHARE PLATES $3.80–$90, DESSERTS $7.50–$30
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
There are now four restaurants in Frank Camorra’s MoVida franchise, each offering something a little different for diners. At Aqui, it’s about space – and a rare view of the nearby Supreme Court dome. Grazing your way through the tapas menu takes in artisan anchovy with a smoky tomato sorbet, potato bomba with spicy chorizo and the classic egg, potato and onion tortilla. Raciones, tasting dishes for sharing, extend from pork and pepper sausage to twenty-four-hour slow-roasted lamb shoulder with fino. Make a night of it with a group over a seafood paella and bottle from the carefully compiled, though pricey, predominantly Spanish wine list. Foodies will appreciate a seat at the bar, which affords a good view of the open kitchen – and occasionally the opportunity to see owner Frank Camorra hovering over the burners. This restaurant, and its myriad staff, operate like a well-oiled machine. Magic.
No 35
CONTEMPORARY
LEVEL 35, SOFITEL, 25 COLLINS STREET, MELBOURNE
(03) 9653 7744 • MAP P.279
LICENSED
OPEN MON–SAT 6.30AM–10.30AM, NOON–2.30PM, 5.30PM–10PM, SUN 6.30AM–10.30AM, 5.30PM–10PM
ENTREES $4–$26, MAINS $34–$49, DESSERTS $18–$19
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
Bold, sleek and impressive with artful touches, the subdued hotel atmosphere of No 35 – on the thirty-fifth floor of the Sofitel – may not be to everyone’s taste, but the spectacular view of the Melbourne CBD will be (provided you don’t suffer from vertigo). This view is, of course, a well-known attraction (particularly the one from the men’s bathroom) – but so too should be chef Stuart McVeigh, who has previously worked the benches at the Botanical, Le Restaurant and award-winning Nico and The Square in London. McVeigh’s menu for No 35 is a game of flavour and texture contrasts (calamari, pumpkin and fregola – of course!) where seasonal produce is the star. Seafood is delicately prepared and caramelised (John Dory) or cooked as a confit (ocean trout) to perfection. The wild barramundi is meltingly good – brilliantly offset by the crispy pork tail that accompanies it. The all-sweet dessert menu features old favourites dressed up, including poached quince with pedro ximenez, passionfruit bavarois and warm doughnuts with strawberry jelly.
Olio Cucina e Trattoria
ITALIAN
32 BLOCK PLACE, MELBOURNE
(03) 9650 2190 • MAP P.278
LICENSED
OPEN MON–THURS 11AM–4PM, FRI–SUN 11AM–LATE
ENTREES $8–$15, MAINS $13–$24, DESSERTS $10–$16
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Tucked into the Parisian chicness that is Block Place, a table outside at Olio will have you crooning ‘La Vie en Rose’ and sipping a Cointreau before you know it. Although, once the staff start chatting and you take a look at the menu, you might switch to ‘Nessun Dorma’ and a Campari because, as you can guess from the name, this place is distinctly and proudly Italian. The dinner menu is only two small pages long but crams in so much simple, classic goodness you won’t know where to begin. All the usual pizzas, pastas and risottos are on offer, as well as scrumptiously herbed and warmed olives and delicious crusty bread served with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. The waitstaff, Italian and ‘other’ alike, are conscientious and friendly and the atmosphere is one of calm European simplicity. The interior is warm and inviting. With tomato-tin lampshades and olive oil–bottle vases amid a trendy Melbourne-style design aesthetic, Olio brings a different kind of laneway vibe to this Parisian Place.
Papa Goose
CONTEMPORARY
91–93 FLINDERS LANE, MELBOURNE
(03) 9663 2800 • MAP P.279
LICENSED
OPEN MON & SAT
5.30PM–LATE, TUES–FRI NOON–LATE, 5.30PM–LATE
ENTREES $17–$22, MAINS $23–$68, DESSERTS $19–$22
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Papa Goose has the feel of a treasure found, without the usual hard-to-find, back-alley, next-to-wheelie-bins address synonymous with Melbourne’s favourite haunts. Experienced chef and owner Neale White has created a sophisticated venue for a long boozy lunch or dinner. As with most modern restaurants, there’s an invitation to view the action: diners can smell the mouth-watering scents from the grill and watch the chefs plate up in the steamy heat of the kitchen. Perfect for an after-work nibble, the aptly named Loose Goose bar on the floor above has an incredible cocktail selection and tapas. But it would be a shame not to try the full menu – perhaps the twice-cooked quail to start, pan-roasted gnocchi for main and then a delightful take on the eskimo pie for dessert? A beautiful high-end restaurant with an impressive wine list, Papa Goose is well worth the price tag.
PM24
FRENCH
24 RUSS ELL STREET, MELBOURNE
(03) 9207 7424 • MAP P.279
LICENSED
OPEN SUN–FRI NOON–3PM, 6PM–10.30PM, SAT 6PM–10.30PM
ENTREES $19–$35, MAINS $30–$48, DESSERTS $16–$18
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Bearing the name of internationally renowned chef Philippe Mouchel, and backed by the Press Club, PM24 comes with understandably high expectations. From the clean, modern lines of the interior design to the impeccable waiters, it bears all the signs of fine dining. Featuring the usual standards of French cuisine, such as a country-style terrine and bouillabaisse, there is quite a range of seafood on offer for those who prefer fins to hoofs. Unfortunately, the lack of any vegetarian mains means it’s really more suited to those of an omnivorous constitution. The main pull of PM24 is the rotisserie, and, as such, the rotisserie duck comes highly recommended. However, at $40, it could be a more memorable affair. Only established in late 2010, it would appear that PM24 is still finding its feet in the world of Melbourne dining. While it’s a good restaurant, dining here when Philippe Mouchel is supervising will ensure a superior experience.
The Press Club
GREEK
72 FLINDERS STREET, MELBOURNE
(03) 9677 9677 • MAP P.279
LICENSED
OPEN MON–SAT NOON–3PM, 6PM–10PM, SUN 11.30AM–3PM, 6PM–10PM
ENTREES $28.90–$31.90, MAINS $37.90–$49.90, DESSERTS $19.90–$32
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
The Press Club is probably most famous for being the place that shot George Calombaris to fame, but should not be dismissed now that his efforts are spread across various projects. The reason it became famous was its distinctive modern take on Greek cuisine, something it still does effortlessly. An example of the standards of fine dining in Melbourne, the interior is clean and spacious enough to create intimacy without feeling isolated from other diners, and the service is absolutely impeccable, the highly trained waitstaff and sommelier talking you through each selection to be considered. Being a Greek restaurant, the perfectly cooked lamb comes highly recommended and doesn’t disappoint. The crab ravioli absolutely should not be missed, but the same can be said for the toursi of heirloom carrot, which takes a simple root vegetable and presents it in myriad different ways. As for dessert, Press Club reinvents the traditional baklawa into a sophisticated pastry as never seen before. While Calombaris no longer mans the helm, Press Club is still well worth a visit.
Red Spice Road
ASIAN
27 MCKILLOP STREET, MELBOURNE
(03) 9603 1601 • MAP P.281
LICENSED
OPEN MON & TUES NOON–10.30PM, WED & THURS NOON–11.30PM, FRI & SAT NOON–1AM
ENTREES $4.50–$16, MAINS $26–$38, DESSERTS $13–$16
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
The massive crescent-shaped tables out back are perhaps the most striking feature of this restaurant on McKillop Street – that is, until you’re struck by the almost shocking lurid pink paint job in the courtyard. Avert your eyes and there are Bromleys to enjoy inside, as well as a deftly handled, decidedly modern pan-Asian menu. Sweet tooths will love the food here, which features fruit and palm sugar in many dishes, but with more than fifteen mains to choose from there’s something for everyone. The more traditional curries are rich and filling. The lunch banquet is a popular fixture of the menu here – though a curious name for a banquet available until 6pm. But at just $25 for a sample of three courses, there’s no questioning it’s a bargain. The service is quick and attentive, and the atmosphere lively. Red Spice Road is worth doing a hook turn for.
Saint & Rogue
CONTEMPORARY
582 LITTLE COLLINS STREET, MELBOURNE
(03) 9620 9720 • MAP P.281
LICENSED
OPEN MON–FRI NOON–LATE, SAT 4PM–LATE
ENTREES $5–$21, MAINS $17–$31, DESSERTS $10–$16
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
If you’re stuck at the ‘bottom’ end of the city, catch some reprieve by ducking into Saint & Rogue. Located near the Southern Cross Station, it attracts a cosmopolitan crowd of suits, out-of-town visitors and footy fans looking to grab some quick pub grub. Although slightly generic in its facade, the restaurant does offer many sitting options and is fairly quiet except on happy hour Fridays. The upstairs restaurant, markedly more polished than the downstairs pub, features an original timber-lined, cathedral-like ceiling and slight hunting theme, with two stag heads. The menu, created by chef Nick Muchie, offers a sophisticated take on pub food with a slight bias towards meatier dishes. The slow-roasted lamb with crispy risotto cake and sticky port wine jus is a highlight, as is the selection of entrees, which includes freshly shucked oysters in pickled ginger and chilli salt and Sichuan peppered squid. Team these with an excellent wine, such as the Wild Duck shiraz, and you have yourself a satisfying, but civilised, pub meal.
Saint Peter’s
SEAFOOD
6 MELBOURNE PLACE, MELBOURNE
(03) 9663 9882 • MAP P.277
WWW.STPETERSRESTAURANTANDBAR.COM
LICENSED & BYO, CORKAGE $15 A BOTTLE
OPEN MON–FRI NOON–3PM, 6PM–10.30PM, SAT 6PM–10.30PM
ENTREES $19–$22, MAINS $20–$42, DESSERTS $15–$20
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
The striking mural outside Saint Peter’s says it all. Created by a local Melbourne artist, it captures the life of a fish from ocean to table. Opened by famous fishmonger and chef Maurice Esposito, Saint Peter’s will delight seafood lovers and pescatarians alike. Located comfortably in a large, double-storey space, Saint Peter’s houses a bar and casual dining area downstairs and a more formal restaurant upstairs. Whichever option you choose, the interior is sleek and modern, a mix of stainless steel, exposed wood and white linen tablecloths nicely juxtaposed with the back alley ambience outside. The menu is just as modern, with an emphasis on sustainable produce and contemporary Italian seafood. Zucchini flowers with smoked eel mousse has quickly become a favourite, the mud crab salad is a must try and the house signature is a spectacular John Dory. Alternatively, there’s a small but well-considered steak menu. You can wash down lunch or dinner with a full cocktail list, an impressive selection of wines and a champagne selection to test the company expense account.
Sarti
ITALIAN
6 RUSSELL PLACE, MELBOURNE
(03) 9639 7822 • MAP P.278
LICENSED
OPEN MON–FRI NOON–3PM, 6PM–LATE, SAT 6PM–LATE
ENTREES $4.50–$19, MAINS $26–$40, DESSERTS $9–$19
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Calabrian standards with a modern twist are Sarti’s fare, so don’t come here for spag bol. Instead, come for chef Riccardo Momesso’s inventive riffs on Italian regional cuisine. Stuzzichini (entrees) get you straight into the mix-it-up mood. Carpaccio of camel meat is cast with bush tomato, and provolone polpetti teams up with aniseed myrtle. Mains keep the theme going with dishes that inject unexpected flavours (stinging nettle and watermelon) into standard meat cuts and homemade pasta. The dance between the modern and traditional continues in the restaurant’s decor, which mashes up pop art (like the huge graphics on the entrance to the toilets) with Italian rustic (mounted deer antlers, wooden bistro chairs). There’s a touch of the boardroom at Sarti, with men and women in expensive suits working the sleek central bar, and casual networking going down at neighbouring tables. It’s also a great date venue, thanks to the warm candlelight, soft soul music and favourable acoustics. For open-minded diners who like their cuisine recognisably Italian, Sarti ticks the boxes.
Sichuan Dining Room
CHINESE
SHOP 3–5, 194 BOURKE STREET, MELBOURNE
(03) 9663 5472 • MAP P.276
LICENSED & BYO, CORKAGE $3 A HEAD
OPEN DAILY 11AM–10PM
ENTREES $3.80–$9.80, MAINS $12.80–$30.90, DESSERTS $3.80–$12.80
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
There’s a rule when it comes to looking for authentic ethnic eateries – go where the locals go. Sichuan Dining Room is one of those places, teeming with people eager for real Sichuan flavours, as you’d get in China. Hidden away in an arcade off the main strip, it’s not the sort of restaurant you’d easily stumble across but once outside, it’s hard not to notice the lurid colours of the interior. In all honesty, this isn’t somewhere you go for a classy dinner and good service. It’s a place you go purely for the food. Those familiar with Sichuan cuisine will revel in the punchy flavours presented from very liberal use of garlic and chilli. The ‘Grandma’s tofu’ (mapo tofu) has a definitive kick that will have the less chilli-tolerant gasping for water, and the corn kernels in salty egg yolk are delightfully crunchy and juicy. If you enjoy Chinese food and have never had authentic Sichuan cooking (which hasn’t been adapted for Western tastes), then a visit to this restaurant should be added to your bucket list.
Solarino
ITALIAN
HOWEY PLACE, 279 LITTLE COLLINS STREET, MELBOURNE
(03) 9663 2636 • MAP P.278
LICENSED
OPEN DAILY 6.30AM–11PM
ENTREES $8.50–$22.90, MAINS $20.90–$32, DESSERTS $5–$8.50
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Melbourne is known for its hidden treasures, and Solarino is but one of many secret delights, a place that regulars deliberately seek out and newcomers happily stumble upon. This tiny restaurant is not quite small enough to be claustrophobic, but is definitely designed for pairs of diners rather than larger groups. With a simple yet well-executed fit-out, it creates a relaxed and casual atmosphere which is perfect for an after-work meal with a friend. Perhaps due to the limited space for roaming waiters, the menu is uniquely projected on a wall and presents an array of Italian-inspired dishes, varying from slightly more traditional offerings, such as a chicken risotto, to more elaborate dishes, like the braised rabbit spaghetti. The focus of the menu is to present big flavours as simply as possible, and the dishes are for the most part filling and comforting. While the desserts aren’t particularly mind-blowing and the wine list is limited, the food is fresh and quite good value, making a visit here worthwhile.
Stellini Bar
MEDITERRANEAN
198 LITTLE COLLINS STREET, MELBOURNE
(03) 9654 5074 • MAP P.278
LICENSED
OPEN DAILY 7.30AM–9PM
ENTREES $9–$16, MAINS $11–$16, DESSERTS $7.50–$9.50
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
Stellini Bar feels like the low-key yet classy local you wish you had just up (or down) the street from your city apartment. A clean, cosy space with limited seating, the room is dominated by an impressive marble counter and a solid timber communal dining table. The short menu consists of simple but pleasing Mediterranean dishes, and is wonderfully complemented by a quality wine list. Open nearly all day, the place ebbs and flows with workers, locals and out-of-towners who all get their fill from robust coffees and ready-made sandwiches as well as Italian favourites such as pork and fennel lasagne and a lamb ragu so tender it falls apart on your fork. The minimalist pastas (pomodoro and pecorino, pesto and parmesan) are generous carb indulgences. Desserts are in the same assured style of sibling restaurant Mess Hall, meaning you have two outposts for some of Melbourne’s best biscotti and tiramisu.
Swiss Club Restaurant
SWISS
89 FLINDERS LANE, MELBOURNE
(03) 9650 1196 • MAP P.279
LICENSED
OPEN MON & TUES NOON–3PM, WED–FRI NOON–3PM, 6PM–LATE
ENTREES $9.50–$21, MAINS $18.90–$28, DESSERTS $8–$14.50
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
The Swiss Club was established in 1899 as a social and cultural hub for Swiss migrants and their families. To this day, the club still runs cultural events, but is better known for its restaurant. The dining room itself is on the second floor of a nondescript building in Flinders Lane (look for the Swiss flag out the front). The decor is a little old-fashioned, with tattered carpets, and could do with a revamp, but you can’t miss the warm and welcoming atmosphere. Chef Roger Moullet will often come out for a chat with the customers. Most people order the famous cheese fondue, creamy and rich, and redolent with kirsch. But if you can look past the fondue, tuck into hearty Swiss fare like schnitzels, roast duck, sausages or sliced calf’s liver, served with spätzli (soft egg noodles) or rösti (a crispy pancake made of grated potato). Desserts of apple strudel, crepes, or chocolate fondue are perhaps not the most inventive, but perfect for a comforting and familiar end to a home-style meal.
Syracuse
EUROPEAN
23 BANK PLACE, MELBOURNE
(03) 9670 1777 • MAP P.281
LICENSED
OPEN MON–FRI 7AM–LATE, SAT 6PM–LATE
ENTREES $8–$14, MAINS $19–$39, DESSERTS $14–$20
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Syracuse is a Melbourne institution. It’s also a second living room for workers in the city’s financial district. With its high ornate ceiling, a mismatched selection of antique European furniture, windowsills lined with vintage wine bottles and a relaxed, continental charm, it doesn’t have any trouble attracting a regular crowd. Secure a quiet corner, sink into a plush chair and you’ll find the menu complements the European charms. There’s a great tapas selection and the steaks, fish, pastas and risottos all share a decadent, Parisian edge. That said, Syracuse is best known for its wine list, which is split almost evenly between local drops and European imports. Connoisseurs will find a wonderful selection of vintages in the cellar. Everyone else can rely on the friendly, professional staff to talk them through the selection and suggest something interesting within their budget. Syracuse has been delighting locals for fifteen years now and its understated mix of European elegance and discerning wines suggests it’s going to be around for a few more yet.
Taxi Dining Room
CONTEMPORARY/JAPANESE
LEVEL 1, TRANSPORT HOTEL, FEDERATION SQUARE, CORNER FLINDERS AND SWANSTON STREETS, MELBOURNE
(03) 9654 8808 • MAP P.278
LICENSED
OPEN DAILY NOON–3PM, 6PM–11PM
ENTREES $21–$27.50, MAINS $36–$57, DESSERTS $19–$23
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
Since it first opened in 2004, Taxi has proved a stayer, not a flash in the pan. Head chef Tony Twitchett took over as executive chef from his mentor and predecessor Michael Lambie, but little else has changed. Taxi is everything fine dining should be – exquisite food with an excellent wine list and impeccable service. The menu is always exciting and creative, contemporary with a Japanese twist. Start with the coconut broth with seared kingfish and mushrooms or the sticky pork with scallops in a chilli dressing, then try Taxi’s famous sushi and sashimi before moving on to the mains – pan-fried John Dory with crab dumplings, asparagus miso and tempura-battered zucchini flower, steamed snapper with the school prawn salad and black bean salsa or even a roasted, stuffed rabbit saddle. Elevated above the street in the heart of Fed Square, the sleek, minimalist dining room offers panoramic views of the city and the river, which are sure to impress out-of-towners. Rumour has it they’re in for a revamp, which will no doubt make Taxi better than ever.
Verge
CONTEMPORARY
1 FLINDERS LANE, MELBOURNE
(03) 9639 9500 • MAP P.279
LICENSED
OPEN MON–SAT NOON–3PM, 6PM–10.30PM
ENTREES $23–$27, MAINS $36–$48, DESSERTS $18–$30
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Verge’s Spring Street entrance is an entirely unassuming introduction to one of Melbourne’s best fine-dining experiences. A glass and aluminium bunker designed by leading architects Denton Corker Marshall, the interior is thoroughly Melbourne: concrete, steel and unexpected vistas. If the design feels a little cold, the restaurant is warmed by the friendly and professional service – most notably from its hands-on owners: sommelier Simon Denton, whose expertly crafted wine list is perfectly matched to the unique contemporary cuisine of chef Dallas Cuddy. Entrees are delicate little taste explosions – from veal tartare with coffee and watermelon to smoked ricotta with potato and lamb breast. The mains, too, are adventures for your palate: ocean trout is served with cucumber, chrysanthemum and walnut, and the rabbit comes with a mustard fruit crumble. For a city built around expansive public gardens, you’d think we’d have more restaurants with garden views but Verge is one of the lucky few. Still, the best table in the house might just be the one outside the kitchen, from where you can experience the creation of exciting cuisine.
Vue de Monde
CONTEMPORARY
LEVEL 55, RIALTO, 525 COLLINS STREET, MELBOURNE
(03) 9691 3888 • MAP P.281
LICENSED
OPEN TUES–FRI NOON–2PM, 6.30PM–8.30PM, SAT 6.30PM–8.30PM
GOURMAND MENU $150+, GASTRONOME MENU $250+
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
Everything about dining at Vue de Monde is fabulous: the anticipation that comes from booking weeks in advance, the personally tailored service, the finest quality ingredients, the expert wine matching, the artistic presentation of course after course of pure indulgence – even the bill, which can quite easily amount to a whole week’s wages. This is, of course, special occasion dining, and chef and owner Shannon Bennett ensures it is an occasion to remember. His staff provide unequivocally the best service in Melbourne – ensuring you remain well watered and informed throughout the degustation, which ranges from rare kangaroo and on-the-bone bluefin tuna to the palate-cleansing celery sorbet and elderflower granita with threads of frozen lime. Currently at ten courses, this constantly evolving degustation can take up to four hours to complete – but you won’t notice that until you check the time after being farewelled. Its new location atop the Rialto affords spectacular views across the city skyline, the bay and out to Mount Macedon, which only adds to the hype about one of Melbourne’s most famous dining destinations.
White Tomato
KOREAN
160–162 BOURKE STREET, MELBOURNE
(03) 9663 0370 • MAP P.276
LICENSED
OPEN MON–SAT NOON–11PM
ENTREES $9.50–$13.50, MAINS $14.50–$36
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Another star of the new Seoul renaissance, White Tomato is a friendly restaurant set in a grand old Victorian building with a soaring, ornate pressed-metal ceiling and stained-glass skylights. This combination of old grandeur and contemporary, casual dining set to a pop soundtrack may seem an odd mix to some, but Koreans have no qualms about mixing food and entertainment so why not join in the fun? The food here is classic Korean from spicy, steaming hot pots to barbecue-grilled meats and seafood cooked at your table and served with condiments galore by young, efficient staff. The kimchi dumplings are a nice take on Korea’s favourite side dish, which is served with just about every meal on the menu. The dishes here go well with a Hite Korean beer and, for those feeling celebratory, a shot or three of the national spirit, shoji.
Yu-U
JAPANESE
137 FLINDERS LANE, MELBOURNE
(03) 9639 7073 • MAP P.279
LICENSED
OPEN MON–FRI NOON–2PM, 6PM–9.30PM
MAINS $6.50–$26, DESSERTS $7
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
While many restaurants in Melbourne’s laneways are difficult to find, Yu-U is almost impossible due to the lack of outside signage. In fact, without prior knowledge of where you’re going, you would easily pass the front door with no clue that it was there. This is not, however, about trying to be deliberately exclusive, but rather is just part of their modus operandi – keep it subtle and simple. Once you step inside the door, you’re instantly transported to a small bistro in Japan with Melbourne’s streets far removed. The menu is limited and the portions are small, but this is quite traditional Japanese so don’t expect overflowing dishes like in other restaurants. The food is also somewhat pricier than expected, but it’s prepared fresh and only uses quality ingredients so can easily be forgiven. The yakitori platter served at dinner is a worthwhile option, with everything cooked to order and retaining the lovely smokiness that comes from cooking over charcoal. With only about thirty seats here, it’s highly recommended that you book before hunting this gem down.