Al Albero
ITALIAN
354 ST GEORGES ROAD, FITZROY NORTH
(03) 9486 3233 • MAP P.289 UNLICENSED
OPEN DAILY 11.30AM–LATE
ENTREES $6–$9, MAINS $10–$22, DESSERTS $4.50
NO BOOKINGS
VISA, MC, EF TPOS
Fluffy is the new flat in Fitzroy. Al Albero is a wood-fire wonder reuniting the north side of town with an old-school pizza philosophy. This tiny joint has pushed aside the posh palaver of thin crust in favour of a fluffier foundation. The toppings also turn back the clock, with ham and pineapple pizza on the menu, and any minimalist mindset is slackened with the return of meatier combos. Puzzled by the nonpedigree picture? Fear not. Al Albero is a world away from greasy operations, with their passion for fresh ingredients and flavours. The thick crust is light and airy, and the tomato base is a homemade delight. Drool over your choice of a dozen pizzas designed to satisfy carnivorous and vegetarian desires. The wooden fit-out oozes charm but the limited seating makes it a predominantly takeaway operation. A small selection of tasty pasta dishes is also on offer.
Antalya
TURKISH
233 SYDNEY ROAD, COBURG
(03) 9383 5115 • MAP P.301
LICENSED & BYO, CORKAGE $3 A BOTTLE
OPEN MON & WED 5PM–LATE, THURS–SUN 11.30AM–LATE
ENTREES $5–$7, MAINS $12–$19, DESSERTS $1–$1.50
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
A longtime favourite for hungry Coburgers, Antalya sits opposite the suburb’s hottest rockstar-owned pub, the Post Office Hotel and, while the pub no longer brings in food from these neighbouring Turks, Antalya continues to attract locals and those willing to travel for Turkish food the way it’s meant to be done. Don’t expect nouvelle cuisine here – this is authentic Turkish, right down to a mother’s touch on the culinary classics. The decor is homely and charming: wood panelling, trinkets from the old country and the obligatory Turkish seaside poster. The lentil soup and eggplant dip are delicious, smoky affairs that set the tone for a lazy rustic Turkish dinner, which carries through tasty pides, juicy and tender doner meats, out-of-this-world spicy potatoes and honey-drenched baklawa for dessert. The staff are friendly and welcoming, and will naturally make you feel right at home.
Bande à Part
ITALIAN
749 NICHOLSO N STREET, CARLTON NORTH
(03) 9388 8950 • MAP P.288 WWW.BANDEAPARTPIZZABAR.COM.AU
LICENSED & BYO, CORKAGE $4 A HEAD
OPEN TUES–SAT 5.30PM–LATE
ENTREES $7.50–$12, MAINS $12–$22, DESSERTS $9
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Muted lighting creates an intimate atmosphere at Bande à Part enhanced by nostalgia from the old album covers on the walls and the huge black and white picture of Camberwell Junction (featuring horse-drawn carriages) in the entrance. Suspended in some vague time, you leave the ‘now’ at the door and settle in for a lovely evening. The staff are friendly and attentive. They don’t hover or rush around. Instead they encourage you to relax and enjoy an evening of good food and wine. And the food is very good. They have pastas, salads and some interesting starters, but pizza is their speciality. Watch them being made in the open kitchen, with fresh ingredients like tartufata, mozzarella, potato, asparagus and truffle oil (the Streisand) or, for the carnivores, tomato, bontazola blue, braised baby Italian sausages and leeks (the Full Boar). The sophisticated, charming menu offers a few old favourites, gluten-free options and something ‘for the little ones’. The common denominator, the pizza bases, are light and airy, but so very satisfying. Takeaway is also available.
Burmese Kitchen
BURMESE
356 ST GEORGES ROAD, FITZROY NORTH
(03) 9486 7088 • MAP P.289
BYO, CORKAGE $1 A HEAD
OPEN TUES–SUN 5PM–10PM
ENTREES $1.50–$9.80, MAINS $7–$15
VISA, MC, EF TPOS
Don’t be deterred by the incredibly small space and limited seating at Burmese Kitchen – the prices and delicious food totally make up for it. Their tasty dishes do the trick to ease those hunger pangs and warm the belly with the spiciness of fresh ingredients. There’s a vast array of dishes to choose from – traditional curries, starters like prawn crackers and fish cakes, stir-fries for both vegetarians and meat-eaters, soups and noodle dishes. In fact, there are so many options you’ll have to visit more than once to take full advantage of the menu. All dishes can be catered to match the level of spice you can handle, ranging from mild to very hot, all outlined comically on their ‘chilli story board’. Delivery is available if you’re a local. The prices are cheap and the service friendly and efficient, so be sure to give this place a go if the mood for Burmese cuisine strikes. And it really should.
Chiba
JAPANESE
19 HALL STREET, MOO NEE PONDS
(03) 9326 0248 • MAP P.300
WWW.CHIBAJAPANESERESTAURANT.CITYSEARCH.COM.AU
LICENSED & BYO, CORKAGE $1.50 A HEAD
OPEN MON–THURS 11.30AM–3PM, 5.30PM–10.30PM, FRI &SAT 11.30AM–3PM, 5.30PM–11PM, SUN 5.30PM–10.30PM
ENTREES $6.50–$9.50, MAINS $12–$22, DESSERTS $5–$7.50, BANQUETS $32–$40
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Chiba is undeniably a treasured find, serving delicious and authentic Japanese food. The local setting is perfect for intimate dinners or quick group catch-ups with no fuss. Their super-polite staff can be spotted from a mile away in traditional Japanese dress, and from the start you know you’re in for a treat. Take a seat at the front of the restaurant, which features a full glass frontage perfect for people-watching, and while you peruse the historical Japanese landmarks on the menu (and make your dinner decisions), they’ll bring you a complimentary appetiser. Dishes are served in dark wooden boxes – take your pick from traditional options like eel or more conservative fare like tempura, rice, noodles or a range of beef, chicken and fish choices. Chiba’s signature items include the sushi combo for two and the ebi tempura, but if you’re hungry and with some buddies, give a banquet a go.
Chowhound
ASIAN/MEDITERRANEAN
235 HIGH STREET, NORTHCOTE
(03) 9486 5885 • MAP P.289
LICENSED
OPEN TUES–SUN 5.30PM–LATE
ENTREES $10–$16, MAINS $20–$25, DESSERTS $5–$14
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
This non-traditional diner in a spacious converted shopfront with blonde-wood fit-out and 1970s tiled floor is perfect for small groups and hungry pairs who might like to take a seat at the bar and chow down on high. The dimly lit booths are cosy and enticing, and the large, central communal tables encourage friendly banter over food. The chefs at Chowhound are that rare breed who can do dishes from Asia, the Mediterranean and the subcontinent – all at the same time. Their worldly menu offers many generous share plates and some mains, all served by confident, professional waitstaff. Choosing between grilled Greek cheese, Chinese dumplings, Japanese sashimi, Middle Eastern falafel, Indian curry, Malaysian roti and Italian arancini balls is like travelling around the world in eighty days, except it’ll be closer to eighty minutes and you won’t have to move an inch.
Curry Cafe
INDIAN
73 HIGH STREET, NORTHCOTE
(03) 9489 9066 • MAP P.289
LICENSED & BYO, CORKAGE $3 A BOTTLE
OPEN TUES–SUN 6PM–11PM
ENTREES $3–$5, MAINS $6–$16, DESSERTS $4
VISA, MC, EF TPOS
From the large front window of Curry Cafe the light glows with such warmth you’d think you were about to enter your nanna’s kitchen. With its relaxed atmosphere – vinyl chairs, vintage Formica tables and soft yellow walls – and the aromas of curry, fresh bread, garlic and spices, you get the feeling the food is being cooked especially for you. If you start with the samosas, fried mashed potato cakes, onion patties and a bit of garlic potato–stuffed roti bread, then you may find you don’t have much room for any of the mains. Still, at these prices – and noteworthy serving sizes – it’s worth a bit of indulgence. There’s much on the menu for vegetarians and meat lovers alike, and with the friendly service and laidback vibe of this place you’ll find yourself whiling away the time over flavourful dishes and adding to the murmuring hum of chitchat from other diners. Curry Cafe is an exceptionally easy spot to unwind and eat cheap, tasty food.
Ginger Garlic
NORTHERN INDIAN
SHOP 9, 9 DUDLEY STREET, ELTHAM
(03) 9439 4423 • MAP P.275
BYO
OPEN THURS NOON–2PM, 5PM–LATE, FRI–WED 5PM–LATE
ENTREES $4.50–$18, MAINS $12–$21.50, DESSERTS $3.25–$4.50
VISA, MC, AMEX
This small, family-run Indian cafe, specialising in northern Indian cuisine, is a true delight and well worth the drive to Eltham. The locals can testify to how lucky they are to have this gem in their midst – early in the week, though the cafe looks quiet, a steady stream of takeaway orders keeps the kitchen busy. Sitting atop a hill, the view from Ginger Garlic’s outdoor area is calm and serene. It feels like a small village and the city seems blissfully far away. The service is solicitous, with every attention given to your comfort, but it is not overly formal. It’s as if the owners are proudly welcoming you to share in their culture and cuisine. And the food is sensational – mouth-watering aromas, vivid, enticing colours, and bold flavours. There is heaps to choose from, and many vegetarian options. The spicy dishes are not awfully hot, just enough to warm you through, but there are other options too. Whatever you choose, you’ll leave happy and full.
Golden Terrace
TURKISH
803–805 SYDNEY ROAD, BRUNSWICK
(03) 9386 6729 • MAP P.300
LICENSED
OPEN MON–THURS 11AM–10PM, FRI & SAT 11AM–11PM, SUN NOON–10PM
ENTREES $7.50–$9.50, MAINS $12.50–$16, DESSERTS $2–$4.50
VISA, MC
If you’ve got a horde of hungry friends then Golden Terrace is a golden opportunity, but that’s really the only thing golden about it. While the decor probably hasn’t been updated since the 1980s, it’s clean, comfortable and serves its purpose well. The food comes out fairly quickly – before anyone’s tempted to start banging the table. The front dining area is well lit, perfect for a quick family meal. It also acts as a takeaway area – they appear to do a steady trade. Further back is another dining area, seemingly for adult groups, with upholstered chairs and big, wide tables. It’s also darker – not so much intimate as less brightly lit. The menu features mostly meat dishes, but there’s also a small selection of Turkish pizzas. These looked truly delicious, on paper as well as on the plate, and should definitely be part of your order. There are no pretensions about this place – you come here because you’re hungry and you want some food. And it’s satisfying.
Green Field
VIETNAMESE
378 SYDNEY ROAD, BRUNSWICK
(03) 9380 8222 • MAP P.288
LICENSED
OPEN DAILY 11.30AM–3PM, 5PM–11PM
ENTREES $3.50–$5, MAINS $7–$11, DESSERTS $4–$5
CASH ONLY
At first glance Green Field doesn’t look like anything special but over the past five years it has developed a loyal clientele of Brunswick residents and earned its reputation as a tried and true local favourite. What it lacks in ambience it makes up for with its cheap and consistent Vietnamese food. The menu is large and eclectic, and portion sizes generous; stick to classics like spring rolls, garlic prawns, pho, noodle dishes and fried rice for best results. There’s a small selection of vegetarian options – the tofu steak with shiitake sauce should not be missed. For dessert it’s all about that suburban classic, deepfried ice cream. The service is harried but friendly, and staff are quick to fix errant orders and missing dishes; it’s all part of Green Field’s charm, and anyway it’s impossible to get angry when the prices are so low. This place gets jumping on the weekends as it’s highly family-friendly so make a booking or be prepared to wait. If you just can’t stick around, Green Field also does a roaring trade in takeaways.
Habayib
MIDDLE EASTERN
44 LYGON STREET, BRUNSWICK EAST
(03) 9381 4005 • MAP P.288
LICENSED
OPEN MON–SAT 5.30PM–10PM
ENTREES $8–$12, MAINS $19–$26, BANQUETS $25–$45
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
East Brunswick is Melbourne’s mecca of Middle Eastern cuisine and Habayib is part of what makes the culture so strong. Richard and Houda are the proud owners, and Houda runs the kitchen, offering thoughtful and homely food kissed with sweet spices. It’s hard not to find value for money at Habayib, and most people go for their banquets, which include dishes like lamb rolled in flaky pastry on a fine hummus with pine nuts, as well as a plate of mixed skewers of lamb and chicken, and a buttery, cinnamon rice which is as much a star on the table as the proteins. If you’re looking for something lighter, Habayib provides some of the best dips on the strip, all handmade in the restaurant and delivered with generosity. Desserts are limited to one or two items daily, and are worth keeping room for, especially if you’re a fan of pistachios on a house-made rice cake doused in syrup. The room is well spaced and the tables topped with linen, which makes it suitable for couples and families alike.
Hung Sanh Seafood &Barbecue Restaurant
CHINESE
443 HIGH STREET, PRESTON
(03) 9471 3853 • MAP P.301
BYO, CORKAGE $2 A HEAD
OPEN DAILY 11AM–10PM
ENTREES $4–$12, MAINS $9–$24, DESSERTS $5.50
NO BOOKINGS
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
It might be a long way from the CBD but Hung Sanh’s delicious barbecue duck is worth making the trip for. With the familyrun restaurant’s patriarch swinging his meat cleaver through crispy pork and duck in the window, there is little doubt that this is authentic Chinese barbecue. A recent refurbishment is charmingly blemished by images of menu items blutacked to the walls. Once Hung Sanh gets busy, it can get loud – the tables are squashed close together and the hum of the staff’s industriousness is palpable. Saturday lunches are busy with Chinese families around tables laden with traditional dishes, which is as good a review as you can hope to receive. Crab and whole fish, sourced from the Preston Market next door, are popular, but the barbecue with rice dishes are fingerlicking good, and should be tried if only to keep the man with the cleaver busy.
Kake Di Hatti
INDIAN
128 LYGON STREET, BRUNSWICK EAST
(03) 9387 7771 • MAP P.288
BYO, CORKAGE $0.80 A HEAD
OPEN TUES–SUN 5PM–11PM
ENTREES $2–$12, MAINS $9.50–$10, DESSERTS $3
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Kake Di Hatti is possibly the best value Indian restaurant in Melbourne. You can usually walk up and get a table, although bookings are recommended on the weekend. That’s when the rickety laminate tables are covered in the paper-bagged longnecks of hairy hipsters and bespectacled curry lovers. Kake Di Hatti means ‘country-style restaurant’. What makes their cuisine different is that the curries here are cooked mostly with a light water base, as is the custom in northern India, rather than with oil or cream. You don’t go to Kake Di Hatti for the service. Waitstaff buzz around the room, looking harassed and often visibly stressed. Chairs squeak across the floor. The tumult seems authentically Indian. The variety of dishes isn’t exactly a revelation – they serve authentic and typical Indian fare – but vegetarians will be pleased to see that each style of curry has a veg option. Cheap Indian restaurants are slowly becoming ubiquitous across Melbourne, but there are few that can compare for quality.
La Porchetta
ITALIAN
392 RATHDOWNE STREET, CARLTON NORTH
(03) 9347 8906 • MAP P.287 WWW.LAPORCHETTA.COM.AU
LICENSED
OPEN DAILY 11AM–11PM
ENTREES $4.60–$10.60, MAINS $6.30–$23.80, DESSERTS $2.50–$6.50
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
LOCATIONS ALSO IN NUMEROUS PLACES AROUND AUSTRALIA
The original La Porchetta has held court in Rathdowne Village since its infamous owner, Rocky Pantaleo, first took over a rundown restaurant there in 1985. Now a trans-Tasman franchise, La Porchetta is often dismissed as lowbrow but ‘Porchie’s’ remains a family favourite for its no-fuss attitude, friendly staff and outrageous floor-to-ceiling photomontage of racing cars, grid girls and the many families who’ve dined here over the past twenty-five years. The menu has everything you’d expect of a traditional Italian pizza and pasta joint, but keep your choices simple for best results. Think good ol’ spag bol, lasagne or a bowl of puttanesca for an olive and anchovy–infused flavour hit. The pizzas are generous – as are the old-school jugs of soft drink for the young’uns – but save room for the $2.50 ice cream and gelati bar, which you might like to enjoy on an after-dinner walk around the leafy backstreets of Carlton North.
The Merri Table & Bar
MEDITERRANEAN/MIDDLE EASTERN
CERES ENVIRONMENTAL PARK, CORNER ROBERTS AND STEWART STREETS, BRUNSWICK EAST
(03) 9389 0166 • MAP P.289
LICENSED
OPEN WED–SAT NOON–9.30PM, SUN 10AM–3PM
ENTREES $4.50–$14, MAINS $16–$25, DESSERTS $4.50–$9
VISA, MC, EF TPOS
Although it’s located at the Centre for Education and Research in Environmental Strategies (CERES), you don’t need a green thumb to enjoy the Merri Table & Bar. Sure, its in-season Mediterranean- and Middle Eastern–inspired menu is mostly vegetarian, and uses food and wine sourced locally in Victoria to limit transportation and help support local producers, but this just means you get the cream of the crop when it comes to tasty organic fare. Kick off your morning with an Arabic breakfast: lamb kofta, a boiled egg, mayonnaise, hummus, chargrilled peppers, zucchini and pickles piled onto pita. At lunch or dinner move on to tapas with anything from potato croquettes to chickpea caponata. The space is light and airy, filled with chatter and happy children. Everything you see is built using recycled materials in a way that reduces waste, energy and water. Even the food scraps are composted or eaten by the on-site farm’s chickens. The Merri Table & Bar serves up feel-good food that will honestly make you feel, well, merry.
Moroccan Soup Bar
MIDDLE EASTERN
183 ST GEORGES ROAD, FITZROY NORTH
(03) 9482 4240 • MAP P.288
UNLICENSED
OPEN TUES–SAT 6PM–10PM
ENTREES $10, MAINS $10, DESSERTS $2, BANQUETS $18
BOOKINGS FOR GROUPS OF 6 OR MORE
CASH ONLY
Moroccan Soup Bar is a true Fitzroy institution and both its reputation and its tiny size make it a difficult restaurant to get in to. Large groups can book; otherwise, you have to show up early or be prepared to wait. When your turn comes, you’ll be squeezed into whatever space is available. Luckily, the wait is worth it. A la carte dishes are available (though a written menu is not), but most diners don’t go past the banquet. Tell your server about any dietary requirements, then sit back and let the talented chefs take you on a tasty vegetarian journey. First up are the dips and bread, followed by mains, which generally include the much-loved fetteh (chickpea bake). Large plates are brought out for the table to share. When you can’t squeeze any more food in, a bite-sized sweet, such as baklawa, and a strong, rich coffee appear. It’s hard to believe that such a tasty three-course meal can cost less than $20, but therein lies the reason that the Moroccan Soup Bar is so fantastically popular.
Nila Restaurant
MALAYSIAN/SINGAPOREAN/SOUTHERN INDIAN
360 SYDNEY ROAD, COBURG
(03) 9383 4565 • MAP P.301
UNLICENSED
OPEN MON 5PM–MIDNIGHT, TUES–SUN 11AM–MIDNIGHT
ENTREES $2.50–$5.95, MAINS $8.95–$18.50, DESSERTS $2.50–$3.95
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
LOCATION ALSO IN CBD
With its dull interior, Bollywood blaring on the TV, and bain-maries by the door, you would be excused if your first step into Nila made you pause. However, those brave enough to venture on will be rewarded. The kitchen does curries, rice and noodles well, and offers a full gamut of meat, from fish and chicken to goat, mutton and deer. (Don’t worry, vegetarians are also well catered for.) For a true Nila experience, choose from one of about twenty kinds of delicious rotis; the dosas are also highly recommended. Veg and non-veg thalis are available and a good choice if the size of the menu proves overwhelming. Whatever you choose, it’s sure to be good. With mostly sub-$10 prices and friendly service, it’s no surprise that this family-run restaurant is a Coburg family favourite. Despite being kid-friendly, takeaway orders are more common than eat-ins, though Nila are trying to bring more people to the restaurant by offering a cheap-as-you-can-imagine $10 buffet on Saturdays at lunch and dinner. You can’t go wrong with that.
Pinarbasi
TURKISH
279 SYDNEY ROAD, COBURG
(03) 9383 4966 • MAP P.301
LICENSED & BYO
OPEN TUES–SUN NOON–LATE
ENTREES $4.50–$8, MAINS $15–$19.50, DESSERTS $3.50–$5
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Pinarbasi is a great restaurant located at the quieter, Coburg end of Sydney Road. The restaurant is brightly lit, with staff constantly whizzing about with food for the hungry hordes. The dancefloor in the middle of the room is a big attraction for kids wanting to run around. Long tables filled (mostly) with Turkish families – a great endorsement for a Turkish restaurant – create the lively atmosphere, while a DJ and belly dancer add to it most Friday and Saturday nights. The food is affordable and comes out quickly, and the servings are very generous. Traditional Turkish fare features on the menu with dips, warm bread, Turkish pizzas, stuffed vegetables, many meat dishes and a vegetarian platter. Saturdays are busiest, so two set menus ($30 or $35) are offered instead of the à la carte menu. Or you can opt for takeaway. The service is great. Despite the frantic pace, hard-working staff still offer a smile as they fly past and they’ll happily suggest dishes if asked. A very enjoyable experience.
Pizza Farro
ITALIAN
608 HIGH STREET, THORNBURY
(03) 9484 2040 • MAP P.289 WWW.PIZZAFARRO.COM.AU
LICENSED
OPEN WED–SUN 5.30PM–LATE
ENTREES $4.50–$15.90, MAINS $14.30–$23.50, DESSERTS $3.30–$15.30
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
This warm, family-friendly local favourite combines Italian trattoria style with installations of kitchen utensils and vintage tea-towels, which is more kitsch than class, but charming nonetheless. The restaurant’s namesake, farro, is an ancient, easily digestible grain that forms the basis of a menu that includes pasta that is easy to eat but can be texturally challenging for those familiar with more refined durum wheat or semolina. Low-gluten grains aside, the famous pizzas are the star attractions here, with an impressive selection of vegetable-, meat- and seafood-topped delights. Traditional favourite margherita comes in three cheese variations and there are plenty of contemporary takes to please the growing number of pizza gourmands. The range of antipasti includes arancini, meatballs and tasty Australian olives, and the wine list is adequate. And while Pizza Farro banks on catering to those with food allergies and intolerances, it has just enough old-school Italian appeal to satisfy those who’ll eat anything as long as it’s fresh, tasty and good.
Sassy’s Jamaican Kitchen
JAMAICAN
376 ST GEORGES ROAD, FITZROY NORTH
(03) 9489 8999 • MAP P.289
BYO
OPEN DAILY 6PM–11PM
ENTREES $4–$10, MAINS $8–$19, DESSERTS $8
CASH ONLY
Dreaming of a Caribbean cruise, but ain’t got the cash? Why not don your favourite holiday tee – the one with the palm tree on it – gather a friendly crew and head on down to Sassy’s Jamaican Kitchen? Sassy’s serves up simple homestyle dishes to a backdrop of soothing reggae rhythms. Strike up a conversation about Bob Marley while sampling a small array of dishes that cater for vegetarians and meat eaters alike. Entrees include crunchy corn on the cob, finger lickin’ chicken drumettes and delicious roti, and for mains you can try some authentic jerk chicken as well as wholesome fish and vegetable stews. The sweet pumpkin pie and coconut ice cream for dessert is sure to have you whistling the tunes of ‘Don’t Worry Be Happy’ all the way home. Sassy’s Jamaican Kitchen is a welcome new arrival on the cultural cuisine circuit. The cheerful staff, reasonably priced menu and casual BYO atmosphere make this a likely place to return to.
Thaila Thai
THAI
82 LYGON STREET, BRUNSWICK EAST
(03) 9387 0659 • MAP P.288 BYO, CORKAGE $1 A HEAD
OPEN DAILY 5.30PM–LATE
ENTREES $5–$6, MAINS $11–$16.50
CASH ONLY
This high-action haunt is what eating Asian food is all about. It’s frustrating, frantic and flipping great value. You don’t come here for the mood lighting and cosy booths. Business dinner? Nup. Catch-up with a long-lost Facebook friend? Forget it. (Unless you really don’t want to hear what they’ve been doing since school.) You come for the eye-popping chilli, the succulent chicken satay and beef rendang, the crunchy lemongrass-infused broccoli, the slippery egg noodles laced with sweet soy, the soft tamarind pork and the stir-fried fresh squid. You come for the vibrancy, the gargantuan portions, the incessant noise. You come with an empty stomach, a bottle of wine and an open mind. And as you go, you elbow your way through the hordes of regular customers, grab a piece of watermelon from the counter and pick up a takeaway menu. Because, frustrating or not, you’ll come back.
Thai Nee
THAI
150 LYGON STREET, BRUNSWICK EAST
(03) 9388 0411 • MAP P.288 BYO, CORKAGE $3 A BOTTLE
OPEN WED–MON 6PM–11PM
ENTREES $4–$8, MAINS $11–$16, DESSERTS $5–$7
CASH ONLY
Tastebuds tooting for Thai? Board the Thai Nee train for all the typical Thai treats minus the commotion of downtown Bangkok. This longstanding joint has satisfied local residents time and time again with high-quality dishes, sweet service and cosy surrounds. Thai Nee has steered clear of plastic tables and chairs and opted for a more civilised fit-out, complete with open fire in winter. More of a chat-and-chew than eat-and-run atmosphere, it’s a good place to introduce Gran to green curry or to reminisce about past Thailand adventures. Thumb through the menu, eye over the specials board or take tips from the staff. Whatever your plan of attack, the dishes are abundant with fresh and flavoursome ingredients. Crunch into some curry puffs, share a sizzling seafood platter or salivate over a selection of aromatic curries in mild, medium or hot. Take a trip to Thai Nee by train, tram or tuk-tuk – just make sure you take it.
Tiba’s
LEBANESE
504 SYDNEY ROAD, BRUNSWICK
(03) 9380 8425 • MAP P.288 WWW.TIBASRESTAURANT.COM.AU
UNLICENSED
OPEN WED–MON 10AM–MIDNIGHT
ENTREES $1–$6, MAINS $10–$15, DESSERTS $0.50–$1
VISA, MC
This is a bit of an institution on busy Sydney Road. Surrounded, as it is, by an excellent array of bars and pubs, Tiba’s is one of those spots where slightly inebriated types stop on the way home for a hearty kebab (lucky, since you can’t drink alcohol on the premises). There are a few tables in the takeaway section, used mainly for overflow, while the dining area has exposed brick walls hung with a few prints. It’s rather low budget but, considering the awesome value of the menu, it really doesn’t matter. Order some dips, skewers and the excellent Lebanese sausages (laden with paprika) to start, then move on to the grills, which include quail, shish kabob, chicken wings and shawarma. Can’t make up your mind? The set menus combine dips, breads, pickles and grilled meats. There’s enough for two people and the most expensive one is $30. You do the maths. Service can be brusque and erratic, but again, at those prices you can let it slide.
Tom Phat
THAI
184 SYDNEY ROAD, BRUNSWICK
(03) 9381 2374 • MAP P.288 WWW.TOMPHAT.COM.AU
LICENSED
OPEN WED–SUN 8AM–11PM
ENTREES $5–$14, MAINS $16–$20, DESSERTS $6–$9
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Tom Phat is a fresh take on modern Thai cuisine. Good at any time of day, it truly shines at breakfast, offering a range of Asian-inspired brunch dishes including a raved-about roti omelette, Uncle Ho’s grilled pork chop, and sweet options like black sticky rice with mango and jaggery yoghurt. The organic fair trade coffee is consistently good. As day turns into afternoon turns into night, reach for the wine menu and order some roti or bites such as Thai fish cakes or duck spring rolls. Alongside the pad Thai and green curry classics sit less standard options like chilli caramel pork belly. They cater well for the vegetarian crowd here, with a scrambled tofu and Buddha’s delight claypot on the menu (both vegan), but don’t do as well on the strict gluten-free front. Tom Phat is pretty much your perfect local: it’s hip but friendly, efficient but relaxed, prices are reasonable and it’s open from morning to night. Definitely a place to linger, though prepare to squash in a little on the weekend.
Umberto Espresso Bar
ITALIAN
822 HIGH STREET, THORNBURY
(03) 9484 8654 • MAP P.301
LICENSED & BYO, CORKAGE $5 A HEAD
OPEN WED–FRI 9AM–10PM, SAT & SUN 8AM–10PM
ENTREES $6–$24, MAINS $11–$20, DESSERTS $2–$10
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
Umberto is a father and son–operated diner that stands out in Thornbury’s slowly growing northern drag. Something of an Italian culture hub, Umberto serves home-style pasta, side dishes, desserts and even language lessons for those wanting to visit Mamma Italia. The dishes here are humble – and humbly served on mismatching vintage tableware by a coterie of friendly young staff. The carbonara is made the way it should be – sans cream – the veal ragu is meltingly good and all dishes use minimal ingredients, allowing flavours like garlic and the deliciously doughy homemade pasta to really stand out. For those wanting more, a tiramisu and coffee, or amaretto, is a dolce closer. The list of Australian and Italian wines, beers and digestifs will please most palates and the reasonable prices and social atmosphere add to the pleasant, unpretentious Umberto dining experience.
Wild Yak
TIBETAN
350 HIGH STREET, NORTHCOTE
(03) 9486 2733 • MAP P.289
LICENSED & BYO, CORKAGE $2.50 A BOTTLE
OPEN MON–SAT 5.30PM–11PM
ENTREES $3.50–$5.50, MAINS $8.50–$13, DESSERTS $3.50–$5
VISA, MC, EF TPOS
Even though it’s settled in among all the shops along High Street, you can’t miss Wild Yak, with its neon blue and yellow sign out front. Inside, the cheesy, odd mix of Tibetan decoration, ’70s-style wood panelling, plastic chairs and glasstopped tables with crimped, baby-blue paper napkins is made up for by its food options. Most of the menu is meat-based, but there are plenty of other options. The fried vegetarian dumplings are strikingly similar to samosas and are a decent starting point if you’re sharing your dinner with friends. Tofu curry dishes, with either a tomato or coconut milk base, are safe options if you aren’t feeling very experimental and want a belly-warming, belly-filling experience. If you’re after something healthy, then go for a vegetarian noodle soup – it’s laden with a variety of vegetables, is low in salt and comes with an extra dose of fungi. For a variant on your normal Asian cuisine takeaway, give this place a shot.