Afghan Pamir
AFGHAN
150–152 THOMAS STREET, DANDENONG
(03) 9792 0197 • MAP P.275
BYO
OPEN WED 4PM–10PM, THURS–SUN NOON–10PM
MAINS $18–$28, DESSERTS $4–$6, BANQUETS $26–$38
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED, 5% SURCHARGE
Dandenong was once better known for moccasins and flannels than for its cuisine. But in recent years, this working-class suburb has started to attract foodies keen to try its authentic flavours – more than 152 cultures now call Dandenong home. Family-run Afghan Pamir is the poster girl for multiculturalism, judging from the rave reviews on its windows. Its gaudy interiors include plastic-covered tables and a collection of wall hangings depicting scenes of traditional Afghan village life. But decor is not what entices loyal patrons – it’s the famous smoky and tender kebabs served on long, sword-like skewers. The maantu, or steamed lamb-mince dumplings, are another crowd favourite, and vegetarians are also catered for with a range of dishes. Those unfamiliar with this cuisine should take a punt on a banquet, which offers great value and provides a selection of their greatest hits. Nicely priced, it makes ordering an easier option for large groups. On Saturday nights they have traditional Afghan music, but on any night of the week you can enjoy the best Afghan food this side of the ’Nongs.
Arabesque
MIDDLE EASTERN
1–3 CARRE STREET, ELSTERNWICK
(03) 9523 1108 • MAP P.303
LICENSED & BYO, CORKAGE $6 A BOTTLE
OPEN TUES–SAT 6PM–10PM, SUN NOON–3PM, 6PM–9PM
ENTREES $6.50–$18.50, MAINS $26–$29.50, DESSERTS $7.50–$ 8.50
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Arabesque is a place for sharing sumptuous Middle Eastern food. The food is hearty and fragrant and best ordered as a banquet. Fresh and pillowy breads are there to mop up baba ghanoush or wrap around some topnotch tabbouleh, but the tagines are the real stars of the menu and vegetarians are not forgotten. It’s often hard to leave room with such fulsome offerings, but if you don’t you’ll miss out on the halva ice cream, a sweet highlight. If there’s too much choice, staff are friendly and happy to explain dishes. Arabesque is a great venue for groups but can be on the noisy side for an intimate occasion. This is made up for by the on-theme decor and attention to authentic detail. Value-for-money mid-week specials keep a steady line of customers through the doors each night, while belly dancing often entertains the Saturday night guests (weekend bookings are recommended). Conveniently close to the city but well away from any crowds and bustle, Arabesque provides a complete evening out all by itself.
Arda
TURKISH
619 GLENHUNTLY ROAD, CAULFIELD SOUTH
(03) 9530 0193 • MAP P.303
LICENSED & BYO, CORKAGE $4 A BOTTLE OPEN TUES–SUN NOON–11PM
ENTREES $4–$11, MAINS $15–$19.50, DESSERTS $2.50–$5
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
A compact little Turkish eatery down the Caulfield end of Glenhuntly Road, Arda is homely in all the right ways. They speedily serve hot bread, hummus and cacik dip as you sit to dine – a rather warming welcome. The interior is a fresh and modern change of pace from your usual local fare. As is the way with Turkish restaurants, it’s favourable to mix and match grills, dips and bread for the table. Arda, thankfully, more than delivers with a slew of classic dishes. The kofta and doner, while not world-shattering, are tasty and succulent, though they pale in comparison to the excellent lamb cutlets and quail varieties. All of this is best washed down with the surprisingly refreshing Ayran yoghurt blend. Gourmet Turkish pizzas are a curious addition to the menu – the ispanakli (spinach and fetta) is served on thin dough, and is gorgeously fresh. Arda’s servings are huge, so best to err on the more modest side of things and stick to shared plates.
Barca Food & Wine
CONTEMPORARY
1007 High Street, Armadale
(03) 9822 8515 • map p.303
LICENSED
OPEN TUES–SAT NOON–3.30PM, 6PM–10.30PM
ENTREES $19–$21, MAINS $29–$39, DESSERTS $15–$41
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Given the name, you’d be forgiven for expecting Spanish cuisine at this neighbourhood haunt. A tapas-inspired grazing plate, paella for main and the frequent use of chorizo and jamon throughout the menu are as close as you might get. It’s a forgivable offence, though. The name Barca is instead meant to symbolise the pulse of Europe, and chef Damien Burke certainly skips around the continent, with a distinct focus on the west. In addition to the Spanish influences, shepherd’s pie with eye fillet and Guinness, crumbed fish and chips, four choices of pasta and some French-inspired desserts tick off most major European destinations. It’s not a bad selection to have on your doorstep if you’re an Armadalian. Add an affordable wine list, a casual dining room and a $25 lunch special and Barca is one smart little local eatery that doesn’t cost the earth. In a cafe-centric strip it’s a great alternative.
Budapest Restaurant & Pálinka Bar
HUNGARIAN
273 GLENHUNTLY ROAD, ELSTERNWICK
(03) 9530 0849 • MAP P.303
LICENSED & BYO, corkage $7 a bottle
OPEN MON–SAT 5PM–10PM, SUN NOON–2.30PM, 5PM–10PM
ENTREES $10.50–$15, mains $22–$37, DESSERTS $9.50–$16.50
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Budapest oozes authenticity, through and through. It’s one of the better recent additions to the vibrant Glenhuntly Road gastronomy. The vibe is warm, hearty and sincere, with a buzzing crowd and frequent visits from various Hungarian musicians, including a masterful gypsy folk duo. The starters don’t come off as accessible, but it’s best to dive into the chef’s mixed entree selection, with the cevapcici (spicy Balkan sausages) a particularly flavour-filled opener. Though it’s playing it safe (compared to its exotic company) the handcrumbed chicken schnitzel is one of the best in Melbourne – chefs can be heard freshly preparing them in the late afternoon. Vegetarian options are vast and delicious: it’s hard to go past the mushroom crepe, topped in a creamy paprika sauce that sits unbelievably well on the palate. The pálinka is a curious beast: forty proof and above, the Hungarian fruit brandy is served at twenty degrees, and warms up the body like nothing else. Do ease into it, though – when it comes to such delicacies, Hungarians are not faint of heart.
Carlisle Wine Bar
ITALIAN
137 Carlisle Street, Balaclava
(03) 9531 3222 • map p.297
LICENSED
OPEN MON–FRI 3PM–1AM, SAT & SUN 11AM–1AM
ENTREES $14–$19, MAINS $22–$34, DESSERTS $11.50–$13.50
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
A premium wine bar clad in relaxed, unpretentious surrounds, the Carlisle is a pleasant surprise. Some humble elegance in Melbourne’s suburbia. This is an unassuming space, but owner and chef Marco Santucci has curated a varied collection of wines in perfect harmony with his hearty southern Italian cuisine. The selection, in appropriate fashion, is immaculately considered, and well priced, with a great selection of Italian, Spanish and French blends. Staff are well versed in pairing and suggesting wines, so be sure to ask for guidance. Santucci also sources a variety of cheeses – the sweet, earthy manchego (Spanish ewe’s milk cheese) is particularly tasty. The chef’s brilliance is in the small details – whether in moody aesthetic or cookery – such as the hand-crafted ravioli, stuffed with roast beetroot and goat’s cheese. A must for vegetarians. Every visit should end with a short black and Santucci’s decadent tiramisu – an appropriate end to an intimate meal.
Chun Po
CHINESE
18 GLENFERRIE ROAD, MALVERN
(03) 9509 9624 • MAP P.303
LICENSED & BYO, CORKAGE $2.50 A HEAD
OPEN TUES–THURS & SUN NOON–3.30PM, 5.30PM–10.30PM, FRI & SAT NOON–3.30PM, 5.30PM–11PM
ENTREES $4–$9, MAINS $14–$21, DESSERTS $4–$6
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
While it might be on Glenferrie Road, Chun Po is not exactly what you’d expect in Malvern but, together with Ripples, it has long been regarded as one of Melbourne’s best Chinese restaurants. Still going strong after more than fifteen years, Chun Po isn’t fancy, but it attracts foodies from all over Melbourne who cram in here with lots of students for no-fuss home-cooked Chinese hawker food. Here, the daggy decor, harsh lighting and laminex are all part of its quaint charm. From brilliant green stir-fried vegetables, chin jiew chicken and pork ribs to yummy fried ice cream, Chun Po is all about good straightforward food – and piles of it. Come hungry, check the specials and you will waddle out the door satisfied, without breaking the bank.
Cina
CHINESE/MALAYSIAN
1183 HIGH STREET, ARMADALE
(03) 9824 4102 • MAP P.
LICENSED & BYO
OPEN DAILY NOON–3PM, 5.30PM–10.30PM
ENTREES $5.50–$12.80, MAINS $13.80–$25, DESSERTS $6–$10.80, BANQUETS $38–$90
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
Cina literally means ‘Chinese’ in Malaysian, and as the name suggests this restaurant is an interesting fusion of northern Chinese and Shanghai cuisine and Malaysian cuisine. Tucked away in the upmarket but somewhat dull High Street shopping strip, Cina is not your typical suburban Asian takeaway restaurant. Rather, with white linen tablecloths, aubergine walls and calligraphy paintings, it is a pleasant surprise, full of attention to detail. The menu is a delightful mixture of perfectly cooked puffy dumplings, Peking duck and long jing crystal prawns, served alongside rich, fragrant beef rendang curries, mee goreng and spicy laksa. Particularly delicious are the spicy pork dumplings served in a laksa broth. Just as surprising as the menu is the expansive wine list, unless you decide to bring your own. And if you can’t decide what to eat and want the best of both worlds, the banquets are very reasonably priced and fit for a king.
Dino’s Deli
SPANISH
34 CHAPEL STREET, WINDSOR
(03) 9521 3466 • MAP P.293
LICENSED
OPEN MON–FRI 7AM–LATE, SAT & SUN 8AM–LATE
ENTREES $9–$18, MAINS $18–$34, DESSERTS $14–$16
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
You might miss this little Windsor gem – understated old-world charm can take a back seat to the blare of Chapel Street. Its dark wooden interiors have a European feel and its sexy candlelit style means it’s the perfect spot for a romantic tete-a-tete or a gathering of adult minds. An unusually long, narrow space provides a series of interesting nooks and crannies among the vintage art posters and Shag-style prints along the walls. At the back, a large bench table, surrounded by a rack of European wines imprisoned by rusty doors, is perfect for bigger groups. There is a distinctly Spanish theme to the menu, which seems to worship jamon and tapas. Taste the subtle flavours of Iberian ham reared on acorns or try the eggplant bravas (chips) with a garlicky romesco sauce.The servings are bigger than you expect and four dishes will comfortably feed two people. There’s a comprehensive wine list, but also a good selection of beers with at least five Spanish options to choose from. Dino’s also serves breakfast with a Spanish twist every day.
Dolan Uyghur Restaurant
NORTHERN CHINESE
LEVEL 1, 10 QUEENS AVENUE, SPRINGVALE
(03) 9546 0698 • MAP P.275
LICENSED
OPEN MON & TUES 5PM–10PM, WED–SUN NOON–10PM
ENTREES $10–$12.80, mains $18–$38
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Most people will be familiar with Cantonese dishes and the spicy flavours of Sichuan cuisine, but mention Uyghur food and you’ll probably get a ‘huh?’ Hailing from the northernmost part of China, which borders Mongolia and a couple of ‘stan’s, this food is highly influenced by Arabic culture, as many Uyghur are Muslim. The halal menu features lamb every which way: stir-fried ribs, chargrilled kebabs, tongue salad, guts soup, black pepper feet and even a whole roast if you’re feeding a large group. These dishes are best eaten with your hands – Mongolian-style. You can also try their fresh hand-pulled noodles or mantu, a fried naan-like dumpling filled with – you guessed it – stir-fried lamb and potato. But while lamb features strongly, you can also find chicken, beef, seafood and even a good choice of vegetarian dishes. With its rather sparse, utilitarian decor, the focus here is definitely on food with a difference. This is a great place to check out with adventurous buddies looking for new culinary frontiers.
En Izakaya
JAPANESE
277 CARLISLE STREET, BALACLAVA
(03) 9525 8886 • MAP P.297
LICENSED
OPEN TUES–SUN 6PM–LATE DISHES $6–$16
VISA, MC, EF TPOS
Daily grind getting you down? The thought of another TV dinner too depressing to contemplate? Make tracks to En Izakaya, where understated style and faultless service go hand in hand with exquisite flavours and an animated, welcoming atmosphere. Sure beats therapy! Traditional Japanese drinking establishments that also serve food (rather than vice versa), izakaya are known for their colourful shared dishes. Created with locally sourced ingredients, En’s beautifully presented servings are tapas-sized, encouraging you to sample as many as you can fit in. Deep-fried prawns with yuzu, soy and lemon-infused eggplant will tickle the most jaded palate; the popular momen tofu and miso-infused eggplant offers a taste and texture explosion so sensual it’s almost indecent. The appealing wine and sake lists complement the food to perfection. Veteran chef Teruaki Sato’s fresh, creative menu keeps seafood fanatics, carnivores and vegetarians happy, while regularly changing specials ensure there’s always something new to savour. Staff are attentive without crashing the party. No surprises, then, that En’s reputation precedes it, and bookings are advised. Now … feeling better? Thought so.
Garcia & Son
SPANISH
3 MADDOCK STREET, WINDSOR
(03) 9078 5007 • MAP P.293
LICENSED
OPEN TUES & SAT 5PM–LATE, WED–FRI 10AM–3PM, 5PM–LATE
ENTREES $6–$20, MAINS $20–$35, DESSERTS $9
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
Best. Meatballs. Ever. Those succulent little babies nestled in piquant tomato sauce aren’t the only thing to whet your appetite; Garcia & Son have thoughtfully included a close-up photo of a matador’s derriere to greet unsuspecting patrons as they enter the ladies room. Don’t let it distract you from the brilliant tapas on offer, though. Aside from the aforementioned albondigas, Garcia & Son offer fluffy croquettes, perfectly crisp with not a smidge of oiliness, along with the expected empanadas, marinated calamari and jamon. They also have a way with anchovies that may just convert those averse to the salty little fishies. Run by a multi-generation family of restaurateurs, Garcia & Son has a cosy atmosphere – perfect first-date material. Spanish-style pottery, books and posters scattered around the space evoke a Barcelona vibe. Tables are situated close enough together that the otherwise faultless waitstaff may get your orders confused. But in such a warm atmosphere that’s just an excuse to get to know your fellow diners over the wine list (be adventurous: it’s all in Spanish).
Ilona Staller
CONTEMPORARY
282 CARLISLE STREET, BALACLAVA
(03) 9534 0488 • MAP P.297
LICENSED
OPEN MON–SAT NOON–11PM, SUN NOON–10PM
ENTREES $5.50–$20.50, MAINS $22–$39, DESSERTS $3.50–$16.50
NO DINNER BOOKINGS
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
The blue lettering of ‘Ilona Staller’, against whitewashed walls, stands out like a jewel on Carlisle Street. And, as the superstar little sister of the popular Cicciolina, jewel it may be. While higher in price than its neighbours, Ilona makes a perfect evening destination on a cafe-dominated street. The waitstaff are attentive, understand what they’re serving and can offer wine recommendations and discuss the food. They’re proud of what they’re offering, as well they should be, with quality produce and such dishes as the beautiful seafood linguini, and bee stings – stuffed jalapenos. Portion sizes are not huge but you’ll be satisfied, especially after dessert. Sweet notables include a cooked-to-perfection (and not a minute longer) soufflé and a peanut pastry chocolate tart. Head upstairs for more of a lounge feel and enjoy one of the many wines served by the glass. The lounge bar often stays open past bedtime. Be prepared to wait for a table, and stick it out: the soft lighting, rich aromas and on-trend tunes create an ambience which makes securing a table its own small victory.
Kabul
AFGHAN
452 GLENHUNTLY ROAD, ELSTERNWICK
(03) 9533 0845 • MAP P.303
LICENSED & BYO, CORKAGE $5 A BOTTLE
OPEN TUES–FRI 11AM–10PM, SAT & SUN 9AM–10PM
ENTREES $8–$12, MAINS $14–$19.50, DESSERTS $8.50
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Another welcome addition to the vast gastronomic melting pot that is Elsternwick, Kabul dishes up fragrant and accessible Afghan cuisine. Determined to set itself apart from the strip’s informal dining, it balances a relaxed vibe with ornate wall hangings, mood lighting and service that rises above simple competence. You can always pick a fantastic Middle Eastern restaurant by its basmati, and Kabul passes with flying colours, with kabuli – steamed and garnished with carrot and sultana – that is absolutely divine. Though the slice of Afghanistan represented in the menu is on the safer end of the palate, Kabul serves up tasty, tender kebabs and qorma. Their salads read familiarly, but have curious Afghan twists, such as the delicious (and rather generously sized) king prawn salad, which is infiltrated with stimulating cumin seed, nicely countered by sweet mango. Vegetarians are well catered for here. The pumpkin and eggplant bodani will hit the spot for those with a penchant for fresh and aromatic Middle Eastern fare.
Livingroom
CONTEMPORARY
12–18 CLAREMONT AVENUE, MALVERN
(03) 9576 0356 • MAP P.303
LICENSED & BYO TUES–THURS, CORKAGE $10 A BOTTLE
OPEN TUES 6PM–11PM, WED–FRI NOON–3PM, 6PM–11PM, SAT 8AM–11PM, SUN 8AM–3PM
ENTREES $9–$18, MAINS $29–$46, DESSERTS $12–$16
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Breathing life into the humble Claremont Avenue strip, Livingroom is not hard to fall head over heels for. Mixing down-to-earth cafe fare with impeccable Euro-Mediterranean influences, the high-quality dishes are intoxicating. Breakfast and brunch are very popular with the local crowd, and the field mushrooms, stuffed with bruschetta, mozzarella and pesto, are richly flavoured and fantastically presented (pair with the delicious fresh carrot and ginger juice). Even the children’s menu here refuses to settle: well-considered, accessible risotto and gnocchi dishes ensure Livingroom rises well above the usual crowd. Things get a little more high-end as the sun sets, with the simple, organic decor lit intimately. The rabbit wellington is a work of art, and the crème catalan is a wonderfully restrained and light dessert alternative to a regular brûlée. Perhaps a little pricey for a local, but the uncompromising quality on the dishes is worth every cent.
L’Olivo
ITALIAN
171 WAVERLEY ROAD, MALVERN EAST
(03) 9572 4487 • MAP P.303
LICENSED & BYO, CORKAGE $2 A HEAD
OPEN TUES–SUN 11AM–LATE
ENTREES $7–$14, MAINS $15–$22, DESSERTS $5–$8
VISA, MC, EF TPOS
L’Olivo is gloriously unpretentious, a bastion of affordable, tasty food and an effervescent vibe. Warm and accessible Italian fare is the go here. The menu is one of those instantly familiar affairs, with a bevy of Italian classics complemented by a smattering of tapas and pub-style favourites. The atmosphere is modern, sophisticated and sparkling – you might have to brave a wait to secure a table here, but it’s for good reason. Familiarity aside, the kitchen doesn’t cut corners: the tapas is superb and masterfully presented. It’s worth doubling up on the grilled scallops, as well as the chorizo – all reasonably priced. Seafood buffs looking for a good feed won’t be disappointed by the flounder, which takes some conquering. The chocolate pizza is every bit as deviant as it sounds, smattered with Belgian chocolate and fruit, and brought out with gusto. Even after a hearty stuffing, you’ll be savouring every strawberry.
Orange
CONTEMPORARY
124–126 CHAPEL STREET, WINDSOR
(03) 9529 1644 • MAP P.293
LICENSED
OPEN DAILY 7AM–10PM
SMALL DISHES $3.50–$18, LARGE DISHES $22–$33, DESSERTS $12–$15
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Orange is best known as one of Chapel Street’s too-cool-forschool cafes, with crowds of hipsters spilling out onto the pavement in search of their famous coffees and hangoversalving all-day breakfasts. Less well known, however, is that Orange does great dinners. It’s also much less crowded at night – bonus! The dinner menu is short and sharp, with about ten ‘small plates’ and eight ‘main plates’, and changes reasonably often, but offers a mix of modern Australian bistro food: rustic French dishes with some Italian and Middle Eastern influences thrown in. Organic chicken terrine, fattoush, Sardinian orecchiette and steak frites are all equally at home on the menu. Desserts stick to the classic bistro theme, with items like chocolate fondant with almond-milk ice cream, and apple and blackberry crumble. By night, Orange has a chilled-out atmosphere. The ‘mood’ lighting is dark enough that you’ll look a year or two younger, but not so dark that you can’t see your food. It’s the perfect place to bring a date you want to impress, without looking like you’re trying too hard.
Pandora’s Box
CONTEMPORARY
2 DUKE STREET, WINDSOR
(03) 9529 4590 • MAP P.293
LICENSED
OPEN WED & THURS 5PM–11PM, FRI & SAT 5PM–1AM, SUN 11AM–4PM
ENTREES $4–$20, MAINS $20–$49, DESSERTS $5–$24
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
You might already know Orange, but its little sister, Pandora’s Box, just a few doors away, is worth an introduction. All the pleasures of the world are realised in this inspired international menu, which is so circa now and tomorrow. Where Orange is classic bistro, Pandora is a study in innovation. The dishes here are meant to be shared, but with larger plates also in the repertoire, this girl is versatile as well as sassy. Let the gooey yolk run down your chin as you bite into the wondrous salt cod scotch eggs. Or go for the Macleay Valley rabbit stifado, glazed pork belly or gypsy duck leg – they’re all good. And when the chocolate in the choc cornets is Valrhona it’s always a smart idea to leave some space for dessert. Melbourne has been applauding talented chef Matthew Germanchis since he picked up the challenge in this first head gig. Intelligent food was never more appropriate, so why has it taken so long to discover this wonderful talent?
Pizze Vini Spuntini
ITALIAN
SHOP 3, 1 CARRE STREET, ELSTERNWICK
(03) 9077 8815 • MAP P.303
LICENSED & BYO, CORKAGE $5 A BOTTLE
OPEN TUES–SUN 5.30PM–LATE
ENTREES $13–$23, MAINS $12.50–$29, DESSERTS $12–$20
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Location also in Chadstone
It ain’t hard to nab a decent pizza in Melbourne, but to stumble upon the warmth, richness, authenticity and soul of a restaurant like Spuntini, deep in the southern suburbs? This joint is special. Sister restaurant to Cafe Vini in the Chadstone Shopping Centre, Spuntini has rapidly made a name for itself in Elsternwick, despite being situated away from Glenhuntly Road – this, perhaps, only adds to the venue’s intimacy. It just oozes ‘local’. The room’s layout is simple and homely: a large, modern box, Spuntini is boisterous, charismatic and the kind of loud that lets you get fantastically lost in conversation. It’s busy in all the right ways – though you may wish to opt for takeaway, a seat with a bottle of well-priced red is a worthy option. The solo bufala pizza (topped with tomato, buffalo mozzarella and basil) is a picture of simplicity, emphasising the incredibly fresh ingredients and well-considered crust. Keep an eye on the rapidly changing seasonal specials. We discovered an unforgettable swordfish-topped pizza – such treats are not out of character for Spuntini. Benissimo!
Siam 1
THAI
65 KOORNANG ROAD, CARNEGIE
(03) 9571 7334 • MAP P.303
LICENSED
OPEN MON & TUES 5.30PM–10.30PM, WED, THURS & SUN NOON–3PM, 5.30PM–10.30PM, FRI & SAT NOON–3PM, 5.30PM–11.30PM
ENTREES $8–$12, MAINS $14–$18, DESSERTS $8–$22
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
There’s been much debate among wine connoisseurs (or wine snobs) as to whether you should, or indeed can, attempt to match wine with spicy Asian food. They’ve simply done away with this argument and got down to business at Siam 1, where sommelier Chris Barnett’s extensive wine list is held in equal regard as chef Wichit Jimmy Maneeboon’s regional specialities. Like any true Thai eatery, when you request something ‘medium hot’ what you’ll get is unapologetically ‘hot hot’. You’ll definitely be hankering for a crisp, fruity wine to wash it all down with, if not a few rounds of Singha beer. Though Siam 1’s menu features the standard Thai favourites – coconut milk–soused curries, pork belly, tom yum and an exceptional green papaya salad – the decor is a tad more luxurious than your average Thai takeaway. Candlelight bounces off dark timber and buddha statues: perfect surrounds in which to uncork a few bottles with friends and dig into an indulgent banquet, all without worrying too much if your larb gai works well with your sav blanc.