Egg Papardelle with Bagna Cauda, Wilted Radicchio, and an Olive Oil-Fried Egg, Cooking from Your Pantry

Egg Papardelle with Bagna Cauda, Wilted Radicchio, and an Olive Oil-Fried Egg

Bagna cauda, which means “warm bath” in Italian, is a really delicious warm sauce of melted butter, olive oil, garlic, anchovies, and lemon. It’s not traditionally served with pasta but the flavors are such an obvious match that it seemed natural to use it in this recipe. I started out thinking I would use a jarred bagna cauda, but after tasting many of them, I found only one (from Ritrivo) that’s an okay substitute for the real thing. Since bagna cauda is so easy to make, I decided to give the recipe for it here in case you decide not to use the jarred variety.

30 MINUTES

Kosher salt

8 ounces egg papardelle

¾ cup bagna cauda (or homemade bagna cauda, recipe follows)

FOR THE BAGNA CAUDA

1 stick (½ cup) unsalted butter

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

20 anchovy fillets, finely chopped (about ¼ cup or 1 2.8-ounce jar)

8 large garlic cloves, grated or minced (about 2 tablespoons)

¼ cup finely chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves

Grated zest and juice of ½ lemon

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

4 large eggs

12 radicchio leaves, torn into large pieces

Parmigiano-Reggiano wedge, for grating

Sea salt

1 heaping tablespoon finely chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves

Freshly ground black pepper

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat and add a generous amount of kosher salt. Stir in the papardelle, return the water to a boil, and cook the pasta, stirring occasionally to prevent the strands from sticking together, until it’s al dente. (Since cooking times vary depending on the thickness of the pasta, refer to the package instructions for the recommended time and taste the pasta for doneness frequently while it cooks.)

While the water is coming to a boil and the pasta is cooking, if you’re using jarred bagna cauda, heat it in a large skillet over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until it’s warmed through.

If you’re making the bagna cauda, heat the butter, olive oil, anchovies, and garlic in a large skillet over medium-high heat until the anchovies dissolve and the garlic is soft and fragrant, about 2 minutes, breaking up the anchovies while they cook and stirring constantly so the garlic doesn’t brown. Reduce the heat to low and cook the sauce for another 2 minutes to meld the flavors. Turn off the heat, stir in the parsley and lemon zest and juice, and season with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Heat the olive oil in a large nonstick skillet over high heat for 2 to 3 minutes, until the oil’s almost smoking (you will begin to smell the oil at that point). Break one egg into a small bowl and then pour the egg into the skillet. Let it just begin to set around the edges, then break the second egg into the bowl and pour it into the skillet. (By waiting a moment before adding the second egg, the eggs won’t set together and will be easy to separate and serve individually.) Cook them for about 1½ minutes, until the edges are golden and crispy and the whites are set but the yolks are still runny. Remove the eggs to a plate and cook the remaining two eggs in the same way.

Use tongs to lift the pasta out of the water and transfer it quickly, while it’s still dripping with water, to the skillet with the bagna cauda. Place the skillet over high heat and add the radicchio. Toss to combine the ingredients and cook for a minute or two, until the radicchio wilts.

Use tongs to lift the pasta out of the skillet and pile it onto four plates, dividing it evenly and twisting it into high mounds. Grate a generous layer of Parmesan cheese over each serving. Sprinkle the eggs with sea salt and place one egg on each serving of pasta. Scatter the parsley over the top and finish each serving with another light grating of Parmesan cheese and freshly ground black pepper.

Sicilian-Style Trennette with Eggplant, Olives, and Ricotta Salata

This pasta is based on Sicily’s most famous pasta, pasta alla Norma, which is spaghetti with tomato sauce, eggplant, and ricotta salata. In Sicily, they say that the pasta looks like Mount Etna: the high mound of spaghetti is the mountain, the fried eggplant cubes in the tomato sauce are the lava rocks, and the ricotta salata grated over the top is the snow that caps the mountain almost year-round. Ricotta salata literally translates to “salted ricotta.” The cheese is conserved in salt, then aged until it is hard. Its firm texture and pungent, salty flavor make it ideal for grating over pasta. I use whole canned cherry tomatoes in this recipe instead of tomato sauce because I like their look and texture. In Sicily, they wouldn’t think of making this dish with any pasta except spaghetti, but I use trennette, a short hollow pasta shape—like penne, only with flat sides—because I think it’s easier to eat with the tomatoes and eggplant. If you can’t find trennette, penne or pennette (“little penne”) will work fine. And if you’re a purist, use spaghetti.

30 MINUTES

Kosher salt

8 ounces trennette or pennette

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

4 large garlic cloves, grated or minced (about 1 tablespoon)

1 14-ounce can cherry San Marzano tomatoes, drained (about 1½ cups)

7 ounces drained roasted eggplant or fried eggplant, cut into 1-inch pieces if large (about 1 cup)

Freshly ground black pepper

28 small pitted black olives

1 heaping tablespoon chopped fresh oregano leaves

Wedge of ricotta salata, for grating

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat and add a generous amount of kosher salt. Stir in the trennette, return the water to a boil, and cook the pasta, stirring occasionally to prevent it from sticking together, until it’s al dente. (Since cooking times vary, refer to the package instructions for the recommended time and taste the pasta for doneness frequently while it cooks.)

While the water is coming to a boil and the pasta is cooking, heat the olive oil, garlic, and a pinch of kosher salt in a medium skillet over medium-high heat until the garlic is soft and fragrant, about 1½ minutes, stirring constantly so the garlic doesn’t brown. Turn the heat up to high, add the tomatoes and eggplant and smash the eggplant with a wooden spoon. Cook them just until the ingredients are warmed through, about 3 minutes. Turn off the heat and season with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, keeping in mind the olives and ricotta salata will add salt to the dish.

Drain the pasta and transfer it quickly, while it’s still dripping with water, to the skillet with the tomatoes and eggplant. Place the skillet over high heat and toss the pasta with the sauce for a minute or two, until the pasta is coated and the sauce is warm.

Spoon the pasta out of the skillet and pile it into high mounds on four plates, dividing it evenly. Sprinkle it with the olives and oregano and using a microplane, grate a generous amount of ricotta salata over each serving.

Spaghetti with Sardines, Golden Raisins, Fennel, and Crunchy Breadcrumbs

Combining fennel pollen with fresh fennel fronds (the feathery green bits at the end of the stalks) is my way of trying to imitate the inimitable flavor of wild fennel—an essential component of this dish—that’s not available in the United States unless you live in Los Angeles, where you can find wild fennel growing alongside our famous freeways. This dish is another classic of Sicily, equally as famous there as pasta alla Norma but not adopted in America as readily. I make it using canned sardines, the thought of which would probably make a Sicilian cringe, but sardines are one of the few canned fish I like. Besides, fresh sardines are nearly impossible to find here. The bread for the breadcrumbs is roughly chopped, not ground into fine crumbs; the texture is important to the dish, so making the breadcrumbs from scratch is essential.

30 MINUTES

Kosher salt

8 ounces spaghetti

FOR THE CRUNCHY BREADCRUMBS

1–2 thick slices sourdough bread, well toasted and coarsely chopped (about ¾ cup)

¼ cup chopped fennel fronds (from the fronds of 1 bulb)

2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon sea salt

¾ cup verjus

½ cup golden raisins

2 3½-ounce cans sardines (about 20 sardines)

¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

12 small jarred onions, quartered (about 3 ounces or ¾ cup)

4 large garlic cloves, grated or minced (about 1 tablespoon)

1 heaping tablespoon fennel pollen

Pinch of chile flakes

¼ cup chopped fennel fronds (from the fronds of 1 bulb)

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat and add a generous amount of kosher salt. Stir in the spaghetti, return the water to a boil, and cook the pasta, stirring occasionally to prevent the strands from sticking together, until it’s al dente. (Since cooking times vary, refer to the package instructions for the recommended time and taste the pasta for doneness frequently while it cooks.)

While the water is coming to a boil and the pasta is cooking, make the breadcrumbs. Stir the chopped toast in a small bowl with the fennel fronds, olive oil, and sea salt.

Mix the verjus and raisins together in a small saucepan and cook them over medium-low heat for about 3 minutes to hydrate and plump the raisins. Turn off the heat and let the raisins sit in the verjus until you’re ready to use them.

Drain the sardines of their oil and remove their backbones and tails.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil with the onions and a pinch of kosher salt in a large skillet over medium-high heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are golden brown, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for another 1½ minutes, until the garlic is soft and fragrant, stirring constantly so it doesn’t brown. Turn off the heat and stir in the sardines, fennel pollen, chile flakes, and the raisins and verjus; season with kosher salt.

Use tongs to lift the pasta out of the water and transfer it quickly, while it’s still dripping with water, to the skillet with the sardines. Add the fennel fronds and the remaining ¼ cup olive oil and toss to coat.

Use tongs to lift the pasta out of the skillet and pile it onto four plates, dividing it evenly and twisting it into high mounds. Spoon the sauce left in the pan over each serving and top with the breadcrumbs.

Trofie with Pesto, Pine Nuts, and Sun-Dried Tomatoes

When I first started working on this book, I had a hard time finding a pesto that I liked. I thought, if I can’t stand behind store-bought pesto—or black olive tapenade—then I’m in trouble, because pesto and black olive tapenade are two condiments that are commonly called for premade and that many people are accustomed to using. So I was relieved when I finally found a pesto I liked. The pasta I use here, trofie, is a small, delicate pasta shaped like tight little hand-twisted ropes. There are a few small Italian producers that make it. If you can’t find it and don’t want to take the trouble to mail order it, ditalini or pennette or another small, fairly delicate pasta would be the best substitute.

30 MINUTES

Kosher salt

8 ounces trofie

½ cup pine nuts

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for the breadcrumbs

¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon basil pesto

¼ cup breadcrumbs or 4 saltine crackers ground to fine crumbs

8 oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, drained and torn into bite-size pieces (about ¼ cup)

12 fresh basil leaves

Parmigiano-Reggiano wedge, for grating

Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 325°F.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat and add a generous amount of kosher salt. Stir in the trofie, return the water to a boil, and cook the pasta, stirring occasionally to prevent it from sticking together, until it’s al dente. (Since cooking times vary, refer to the package instructions for the recommended time and taste the pasta for doneness frequently while it cooks.)

Spread the pine nuts on a baking sheet and toast them in the oven for 8 to 10 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally for even toasting, until the nuts are lightly browned and fragrant. Remove the nuts from the oven and set them aside to cool slightly.

While the water is coming to a boil and the pasta is cooking, stir the olive oil and pesto together in a bowl big enough to toss the pasta in, season it with kosher salt, and set the bowl aside.

Put the breadcrumbs or saltine crumbs in a small bowl and stir in a few drops of olive oil to just moisten them.

Reserve ½ cup of the pasta water, drain the pasta, and transfer it quickly, while it’s still dripping with water, to the bowl with the pesto. Toss the pasta with the pesto, adding the reserved pasta water gradually, just until the pesto coats the pasta easily and is not sticky. Add the sun-dried tomatoes, pine nuts, and basil, and toss to combine.

Spoon the pasta out of the bowl and pile it into high mounds on four plates, dividing it evenly. Spoon any sauce or other ingredients left in the bowl over each serving, sprinkle with the breadcrumbs, and grate Parmesan cheese over each serving.

Egg Papardelle with Asparagus, Dried Morel Mushrooms, and Fresh Goat Cheese

Dried morels are one of only two kinds of dried mushrooms that I like (the other being porcini), which is why I wanted to use them in this book. Their earthy flavor is the perfect counterpoint to the tangy goat cheese in this dish. The cheese doesn’t really melt, but it makes for a thick, creamy sauce.

30 MINUTES

1 ounce dried morel mushrooms (about 1 cup)

Kosher salt

8 ounces egg papardelle

1 pound asparagus spears (preferably pencil asparagus)

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

4 large garlic cloves, grated or minced (about 1 tablespoon)

2 medium shallots, grated or minced (about 1 heaping tablespoon)

6 ounces fresh goat cheese

Place the mushrooms in a medium bowl and add enough hot water to cover them. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and set the mushrooms aside for 10 minutes to soften them. Drain, reserving 1 cup of the water the mushrooms were soaked in. Halve or quarter the mushrooms into small pieces.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat and add a generous amount of kosher salt. Stir in the papardelle, return the water to a boil, and cook the pasta, stirring occasionally to prevent the strands from sticking together, until it’s al dente. (Since cooking times vary, refer to the package instructions for the recommended time and taste the pasta for doneness frequently while it cooks.)

While the water is coming to a boil and the pasta is cooking, remove the tough ends of the asparagus by snapping the stems off one at a time at the natural break. Starting at the tip end, cut the spears diagonally into 1-inch pieces.

Heat the olive oil, garlic, shallots, and a pinch of kosher salt in a large skillet over medium-high heat and cook, stirring constantly to prevent the garlic from browning, until the shallots are soft and the garlic is soft and fragrant, about 1½ minutes. Turn the heat up to high, add the asparagus and another pinch of kosher salt, and cook it for about 2 minutes, until it’s just done but still crunchy. Add the morels and the reserved water and simmer until the liquid is reduced by one third.

Use tongs to lift the pasta out of the water and transfer it quickly, while it’s still dripping with water, to the skillet with the asparagus and mushrooms. Place the skillet over high heat and stir gently to coat the pasta with the sauce. Crumble the goat cheese over the pasta and fold it in until the cheese is warm and creamy, about 2 minutes.

Use tongs to lift the pasta out of the skillet and pile it onto four plates, dividing it evenly and twisting it into high mounds. Spoon the sauce and vegetables left in the skillet over each serving.

Orzo with Dried Porcini Mushrooms, Radicchio, and Aged Balsamic Vinegar

Orzo is a tiny pasta the size and shape of a grain of rice. I like it because it has a similar look and feel to risotto, but you don’t have to pamper it as it cooks, stirring it constantly for 20 or 25 minutes, as you do with risotto. If you have balsamico “extra vecchio” (the very expensive stuff that’s aged fifty years and longer), use just a few drops of that in place of the balsamic vinegar in this recipe.

30 MINUTES

1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms (about 2 cups)

Kosher salt

1 cup orzo (about 6½ ounces)

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

4 large garlic cloves, grated or minced (about 1 tablespoon)

2 medium shallots, grated or minced (about 1 tablespoon)

8 large radicchio leaves, shredded (about 2 cups)

1 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus extra for grating over the pasta

½ stick (4 tablespoons) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

High-quality extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon aged balsamic vinegar

Freshly ground black pepper

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat and add a generous amount of kosher salt. Stir in the orzo, return the water to a boil, and cook the pasta, stirring occasionally to prevent it from sticking together, until it’s just tender. (Since cooking times vary, refer to the package instructions for the recommended time and taste the pasta for doneness frequently while it cooks.)

While the water is coming to a boil and the pasta is cooking, heat the olive oil, garlic, shallots, and a pinch of kosher salt in a large skillet over medium-high heat and cook, stirring constantly to prevent the garlic from browning, until the shallots are soft and the garlic is soft and fragrant, about 1½ minutes. Turn the heat up to high, stir in the radicchio, mushrooms, and the water the mushrooms were soaked in, and turn off the heat.

Reserve ¼ cup of the pasta water, drain the pasta, and transfer it quickly, while it’s still dripping with water, to the skillet with the mushrooms. Place the skillet over high heat, add the pasta water and Parmesan cheese, and stir to combine. Lower the heat and cook for about 30 seconds to thicken the sauce. Add the butter and stir to melt it.

Spoon the pasta out of the skillet and pile it into high mounds on four plates, dividing it evenly. Drizzle high-quality olive oil and the balsamic vinegar and grate a thin layer of Parmesan cheese over each serving; finish with freshly ground black pepper.

Penne Arrabbiata with Charred Sweet Tomatoes

Arrabbiata is a classic spicy tomato sauce. The best one I tasted was made by Rustichella d’Abruzzo. If you can’t find it, any spicy tomato sauce will work in its place. If the sauce you’re using is mild, you may want to add more red pepper paste, depending on how spicy you like it. I add sugar to the tomatoes before broiling them; it gives them a hint of sweetness and, more important, it allows them to get nice and charred without being cooked too long.

35 MINUTES

Kosher salt

8 ounces penne

28 small, sweet tomatoes (scant ½ pint), or 14 cherry tomatoes, halved

¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Pinch of sugar

6 large garlic cloves, grated or minced (about 2 tablespoons)

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon red pepper paste, or more to taste

1 cup arrabbiata sauce (or any spicy tomato sauce)

1 heaping tablespoon finely chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves

Parmigiano-Reggiano wedge, for grating

Adjust the oven rack to the highest position and preheat the broiler.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat and add a generous amount of kosher salt. Stir in the penne, return the water to a boil, and cook the pasta, stirring occasionally to prevent it from sticking together, until it’s al dente. (Since cooking times vary depending on the thickness of the pasta, refer to the package instructions for the recommended time and taste the pasta for doneness frequently while it cooks.)

Toss the tomatoes in a medium bowl with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, sugar, and a generous sprinkling of kosher salt. Scatter them on a baking sheet and place them under the broiler for 5 to 7 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally, until they’re charred and burst in places.

Heat the remaining ¼ cup of olive oil, garlic, red pepper paste, and a pinch of kosher salt in a large skillet over medium-high heat, and sauté until the garlic is soft and fragrant, about 1½ minutes, stirring constantly so the garlic doesn’t brown. Reduce the heat to low, add the arrabbiata sauce and cook, stirring occasionally, to warm it through.

Drain the pasta and transfer it quickly, while it’s still dripping with water, to the skillet with the sauce, and stir to coat the pasta with the sauce.

Spoon the pasta out of the skillet and pile it into high mounds on four plates, dividing it evenly. Spoon any sauce left in the skillet and the charred tomatoes over the pasta, sprinkle with the parsley, and grate a thin layer of Parmesan cheese over each serving.

Capellini with Tomato Sauce and Fresh Ricotta

I’ve often made this dish for my children using common brands of pasta sauce such as Classico. Use whatever pasta sauce you like. However, I do recommend you seek out fresh ricotta cheese, even if it means a special trip to the cheese or specialty food store to get it. You really need to be careful not to overcook capellini—it will turn into something resembling glue or baby food. (It’s so thin that this is easy to do.)

25 MINUTES

Kosher salt

8 ounces capellini

1 26-ounce jar pasta sauce (about 2 cups)

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for thinning the ricotta

1 cup fresh ricotta

High-quality extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling

¼ cup finely chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves

Parmigiano-Reggiano wedge, for grating

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat and add a generous amount of kosher salt. Stir in the capellini, return the water to a boil, and cook the pasta, stirring occasionally to prevent the strands from sticking together, until it’s al dente. (Since cooking times vary, refer to the package instructions for the recommended time and taste the pasta for doneness frequently while it cooks.)

While the water is coming to a boil, warm the pasta sauce with the olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally to keep it from scorching. Just before serving, spoon the sauce onto each of four plates, dividing it evenly.

Mix the ricotta with about ¼ teaspoon of kosher salt and enough olive oil to obtain a loose, spoonable consistency.

Use tongs to lift the pasta out of the water and transfer it directly onto each plate on top of the sauce, dividing it evenly and twisting it into high mounds. Spoon the ricotta on top of each mound of pasta and drizzle it with the high-quality olive oil. Sprinkle the parsley and grate a thin layer of Parmesan cheese over each serving.

Orecchiette with Peas, Prosciutto, and Crème Fraîche

Frozen peas are so tender and sweet that this classic springtime pasta dish isn’t compromised by substituting them for fresh-shucked peas. These “little ears” of pasta are the ideal shape for capturing the tiny peas.

35 MINUTES

1½ teaspoons kosher salt, plus more for the pasta water

8 ounces orecchiette

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

6 large garlic cloves, grated or minced (about 2 tablespoons)

1 cup frozen petite peas (about 4 ounces)

1 cup crème fraîche

6 thin slices prosciutto (about 3 ounces), torn in half

12 small basil leaves

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat and add a generous amount of kosher salt. Stir in the orecchiette, return the water to a boil, and cook the pasta, stirring occasionally to prevent it from sticking together, until it’s al dente. (Since cooking times vary depending on the thickness of the pasta, refer to the package instructions for the recommended time and taste the pasta for doneness frequently while it cooks.)

While the water is coming to a boil and the pasta is cooking, heat the oil, garlic, and a pinch of kosher salt in a large skillet over medium-high heat and sauté until the garlic is soft and fragrant, about 1½ minutes, stirring constantly so the garlic doesn’t brown. Reduce the heat to medium and stir in the peas, crème fraîche, and the 1½ teaspoons of kosher salt. Bring the sauce to a simmer and cook, stirring constantly, for about 1 minute, until the sauce is warmed through.

Reserve ⅓ cup of the pasta water, drain the pasta and transfer it quickly, while it’s still dripping with water, to the skillet with the sauce. Add the reserved pasta water, stir to coat the pasta with the sauce and cook the pasta and sauce together over high heat for about 2 minutes, until the ingredients are combined.

Spoon the pasta out of the skillet and pile it into high mounds on four plates, dividing it evenly. Spoon the sauce left in the skillet over the pasta. Rumple 3 pieces of prosciutto and lay 3 basil leaves over each serving.

Linguine with Borlotti Beans and Pancetta

Pancetta is so flavorful and salty that even I, a major salt lover, didn’t add more salt to this dish. This recipe may seem to call for a lot of arugula, but when the arugula is folded into the hot pasta, it wilts down dramatically and is just enough to add good color and a nice fresh element. If you don’t have a skillet large enough to hold the arugula before it wilts, transfer the sauce to a large serving bowl, add the arugula and the hot pasta, and let it sit for about 1 minute so the hot pasta wilts the arugula. Then toss to incorporate the pasta with the sauce.

40 MINUTES

Kosher salt

8 ounces linguine

1 ¾-inch-thick slab pancetta (about 4 ounces)

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 15-ounce can borlotti beans (about 1½ cups), rinsed and drained

1 small shallot, grated or minced (about 1 teaspoon)

1 large garlic clove, grated or minced (about 1 teaspoon)

1½ cups passato or roughly chopped San Marzano tomatoes, with their juice

12 cups loosely packed arugula leaves

Lemon for squeezing over the pasta

Freshly ground black pepper

Parmigiano-Reggiano wedge, for grating

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat and add a generous amount of kosher salt. Stir in the linguine, return the water to a boil, and cook the pasta, stirring occasionally to prevent the strands from sticking together, until it’s al dente. (Since cooking times vary, refer to the package instructions for the recommended time and taste the pasta for doneness frequently while it cooks.)

While the water is coming to a boil and the pasta is cooking, slice the pancetta into three ¼-inch-thick slices and cut each slice crosswise into ½-inch pieces.

Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over high heat for 2 to 3 minutes, until the oil’s almost smoking (you will begin to smell the oil at that point). Add the pancetta and cook for about 1½ minutes, stirring frequently, until it begins to brown. Reduce the heat to medium and continue to cook the pancetta for about 2 minutes, stirring occasionally, until it’s cooked through and evenly browned. Turn the heat up to medium-high, and add the beans, shallot, and garlic and sauté until the shallots are soft and the garlic is soft and fragrant, about 1½ minutes, stirring constantly so the garlic doesn’t brown. Add the passato and cook it for about a minute to warm it through. Turn off the heat, add the arugula in handfuls, and fold it into the sauce to wilt the leaves.

Use tongs to lift the pasta out of the water and transfer it quickly, while it’s still dripping with water, to the skillet with the sauce. Toss to coat the pasta with the sauce.

Use tongs to lift the pasta out of the skillet and pile it onto four plates, dividing it evenly and twisting it into high mounds. Squeeze a few drops of lemon juice over each serving and top with freshly ground black pepper and a generous grating of Parmesan cheese.

Spaghetti with Marinated White Anchovies and Whole Wilted Chives

This very simple, very satisfying dish was inspired by a recipe Matt Molina borrowed from one of Mario Batali’s books. I used chile paste in place of chile flakes because I wanted the paste to coat the strands of spaghetti the way pesto and tapenade do. Marinated white anchovies are a totally different product from salted or oil-packed anchovies, which are what people usually think of when they hear the word “anchovy.” They’re plump, pickled, and not nearly as salty as the canned or jarred variety. You can find them at seafood counters, usually packaged in a little sealed tray, or behind the counter, always refrigerated. Many anchovy haters have been converted when they tasted them, so even if you don’t think you like anchovies, I urge you to give this recipe a try. I find the combination of the long anchovies with the long whole chives and long strands of spaghetti visually very appealing.

30 MINUTES

Kosher salt

8 ounces spaghetti

FOR THE ANCHOVIES

32 marinated white anchovy fillets

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

Grated zest of 1 lemon

1 teaspoon chile flakes

½ cup breadcrumbs or 8 saltine crackers, ground to fine crumbs

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for the breadcrumbs

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon red pepper paste

4 large garlic cloves, grated or minced (about 1 tablespoon)

3 ¾-ounce packages or 2 bunches fresh chives

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

While the water is coming to a boil and the pasta is cooking, place the anchovies on a large plate, drizzle them with the olive oil, and sprinkle them with the lemon zest and chile flakes.

Put the breadcrumbs or saltine crumbs in a small bowl and stir in a few drops of olive oil to just moisten them.

Heat the olive oil, red pepper paste, garlic, and a pinch of kosher salt in a large skillet over medium-high heat and sauté until the garlic is soft and fragrant, about 1½ minutes, stirring constantly so the garlic doesn’t brown.

Use tongs to lift the pasta out of the water and transfer it quickly, while it’s still dripping with water, to the skillet with the red pepper paste. Put the skillet over medium-high heat, add the whole chives, and stir until the chives wilt. Add the anchovies and lemon juice and toss gently to combine.

Use tongs to lift the pasta out of the skillet and pile it onto four plates, dividing it evenly and twisting it into high mounds. Pull a few chives out so you can see the color and sprinkle the breadcrumbs over the top.

Polenta with Sausage Ragù

Prepackaged sausages are convenient, but when I have the time I like to buy them from a butcher or an Italian grocer.

40 MINUTES

FOR THE POLENTA

3 cups whole milk, plus extra as needed

15 fresh thyme sprigs

2 large garlic cloves, grated or minced (about 2 teaspoons)

2 teaspoons kosher salt

½ cup instant polenta

½ stick (4 tablespoons) unsalted butter

FOR THE RAGù

2 tablespoons canola oil (or other neutral-flavored oil)

4 sweet or spicy Italian pork sausages (preferably flavored with fennel; about ¾ pound)

1 large garlic clove, grated or minced (about 1 teaspoon)

¼ teaspoon chile flakes

¾ cup passato

¼ cup chopped roasted Piquillo peppers (or any roasted red peppers), plus 2 tablespoons of their oil

1 teaspoon tomato paste

1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano leaves

High-quality extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling

Parmigiano-Reggiano wedge, for grating

To make the polenta, combine the milk, thyme, garlic, and salt in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan and bring it to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer the milk for about 5 minutes to steep the thyme. Remove the thyme sprigs and add the polenta in a slow, thin stream as you stir with a whisk to prevent the polenta from clumping. Bring the polenta to a low boil, reduce the heat to low, and cook it for about 5 minutes, whisking often, until it thickens to a loose, porridge-like consistency. Turn off the heat, stir in the butter, and cover.

Heat the canola oil in a large skillet over high heat for 2 to 3 minutes, until the oil’s almost smoking (you will begin to smell the oil at that point). Slash the sausage casings with a knife and squeeze the sausage meat out of the casings and into the skillet; discard the casings. Cook the sausage, stirring occasionally and breaking it into small pieces as it cooks, until it’s browned and cooked through, about 8 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium-high, add the garlic and chile flakes, and cook for about 1 minute just to soften the garlic, stirring constantly to prevent it from browning. Stir in the passato, peppers, and tomato paste and cook for 5 to 6 minutes to break down the tomatoes and meld the flavors. Turn off the heat and stir in the oregano and the oil from the peppers.

If the polenta has thickened, place it over medium heat and stir in more milk until it returns to a loose consistency.

Spoon the polenta in mounds on four plates, dividing it evenly, and create an indentation in each mound with the back of a spoon. Spoon the ragù into the indentation and over each serving of polenta. Drizzle with the high-quality olive oil and grate Parmesan cheese over each serving.

Polenta with Quattro Formaggi and Cheese Condimenti

Don’t be intimidated by the long ingredient list for this recipe. The only “cooking” you really have to do is to cook the instant polenta. Each serving is topped with four cheeses, and each cheese is topped with a condiment, so it’s really like a cheese course on top of polenta. It’s so rich, you may want to serve it with a simple green or Tri-Colore Salad. If you have individual ovenproof plates, use them for this dish, which goes in the oven for about a minute. Otherwise you can make the dish family style in one or two ovenproof skillets.

45 MINUTES

FOR THE POLENTA

3 cups whole milk, plus extra as needed

15 fresh thyme sprigs

2 large garlic cloves, grated or minced (about 2 teaspoons)

2 teaspoons kosher salt

½ cup instant polenta

½ stick (4 tablespoons) unsalted butter

½ ounce sweet Gorgonzola or Roquefort cheese, crumbled (about 2 tablespoons)

1 ounce Taleggio cheese (or another soft, pungent-melting cheese), cut into small pieces (about ¼ cup)

1 ounce truffled Italian cheese (or fontina), cut into small pieces (about ¼ cup)

Parmigiano-Reggiano wedge, for shaving

High-quality extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling

Freshly ground black pepper

Walnut oil, for drizzling

Chestnut honey (or buckwheat honey), for drizzling

Chile flakes

20 fresh chives

A few drops of truffle oil (if you are using fontina), for drizzling

Adjust the oven rack to the highest position and preheat the broiler.

Divide the polenta into four large ovenproof soup plates or bowls. Place the Gorgonzola, Taleggio, and truffled cheeses in three of four quadrants over each serving of polenta, reserving one quadrant for the Parmesan. Put the plates under the broiler for about 1 minute, until the cheeses are just melted.

Use a sharp knife or vegetable peeler to cut or shave 24 very thin slices from the wedge of Parmesan cheese and place the slices in the fourth, empty quadrant, dividing them evenly.

Drizzle the Parmesan cheese with high-quality olive oil and top with freshly ground black pepper. Drizzle walnut oil over each serving of Gorgonzola. Drizzle honey and sprinkle a pinch of chile flakes over each serving of Taleggio, and use scissors to snip about 1 teaspoon of chives over each serving of truffled Italian cheese. Drizzle the truffle oil over the fontina, if you’re using it.