CHAPTER SIX
EXPANDING YOUR APOTHECARY
BEFORE WE DIVE into making body care products, we’ll need to expand your apothecary with a few other botanical ingredients. As we discussed in chapter 3, aromatherapy body care products are made up of essential oils and some type of base, such as a carrier oil and/or herbal oil, an unscented cream or lotion, or a gel or salve. The following chart outlines the ingredients that each body care product covered in this book may contain. The lowercase x stands for optional or dependent upon the needs of product making.
|
CO |
HO |
HY |
WX |
BT |
AO |
Body and Facial Oils |
X |
X |
|
|
|
X |
Roll-On (aka Roller Balls) |
X |
X |
|
|
|
|
Body Butters |
X |
X |
|
|
X |
X |
Aromatic Gels |
X |
X |
X |
|
|
|
Salves |
X |
X |
|
X |
X |
X |
Lip Balm |
X |
X |
|
X |
X |
|
Salt Scrubs |
X |
X |
|
|
|
|
Key to Codes
CO |
Carrier oil (includes vegetable oils and specialty seed oils, e.g., rosehip seed, borage) |
HO |
Herbal oils (e.g., Calendula, St. John’s Wort, Arnica) |
HY |
Hydrosol(s) |
WX |
Wax |
BT |
Butter |
AO |
Antioxidant |
You can choose to make a body care product for its therapeutic benefits (e.g., a respiratory salve or salve to reduce inflamed skin conditions) or simply for the beauty and emotional support the aromatics provide (e.g., salve with rose, sweet orange, and patchouli used as a perfume).
Now let’s add to your apothecary by understanding the ingredients needed to make various body care products.
CARRIER OILS
Carrier oils, also commonly referred to as vegetable oils, are expeller pressed (using a type of pressing machine that extracts the oil) from seeds, nuts, and whole fruits. They are called “carrier” oils because they help dilute and carry the essential oils onto the skin.
On their own, carrier oils have incredible therapeutic benefits that support the skin’s health and vitality. Carrier oils contain a rich array of fat-soluble vitamins, fatty acids, and essential fatty acids that not only help nourish the skin, but also protect the skin’s barrier function, protect and repair the skin from damage (be it from the sun or free radicals), and prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Carrier oils can also support the tone, elasticity, shape, and resiliency of the skin.
Let’s have a quick look at some of the more important fat-soluble vitamins and fatty acids found in carrier oils.
• Vitamin E, also known as tocopherols, is an important and potent antioxidant, which means that it prevents cell damage from the destructive elements of free radicals.
• Vitamin A is thought to support collagen synthesis and to support the health of the skin as it naturally ages or if it has been damaged from sun exposure.
• Beta-carotene, a precursor to vitamin A, is found in carriers that tend to be a rich orange color, such as sea buckthorn CO2 extract and palm kernel oil. Beta-carotene protects the skin from free-radical damage as well as damage from the sun.
• Essential fatty acids, such as linoleic and linolenic acid, are fatty acids the body cannot make on its own. We need to apply them to our skin or take them into our body through our diet. Deficiency in essential fatty acids in the skin alters the barrier function of the skin and can lead to excessive dryness (from water loss), scaliness, redness, and other inflamed skin conditions. Carrier oils rich in essential fatty acids include borage, rosehip seed oil, evening primrose oil, flax seed oil, and safflower and sunflower oils (rich in linoleic acid).
Carrier Oils and Their Properties
The following chart provides information on a variety of carrier oils. Our favorite carrier oils and the ones we tend to use the most are: jojoba oil, sesame seed oil, and sunflower seed oil. These three carriers are readily available, relatively inexpensive, and can be used at 100 percent.
CARRIER OIL |
PROPERTIES |
AVOCADO OIL Persea americana Shelf Life: Up to 12 months. Can add mixed tocopherols or vitamin E to elongate shelf life: 0.04% to 1.0%. |
Avocado oil offers powerful revitalizing and cell regenerative activity. Avocado is a wonderful emollient with great penetration. It’s indicated specifically for maturing skin and dry skin. Post-menopausal skin, dry, dehydrated, fragile, or mature skin, and premature aging symptoms would all benefit from avocado oil. Use: 10 to 15% dilution of the total carrier oil amount |
BAOBAB OIL Adansonia digitata Shelf Life: 2 to 4 years dependent upon the conditions of storage. Extremely stable oil. |
Baobab oil is a heavier oil than most other carrier oils, with great emollient qualities for the skin supporting the skins’ barrier function and lipid matrix while preventing water loss. Use: 25 to 100% dilution of the total carrier oil amount |
BORAGE SEED OIL Borago officinalis Shelf Life: Once opened, up to 6 to 9 months dependent upon the conditions of storage. EVENING PRIMROSE OIL Oenothera biennis Shelf Life: Once opened, up to 12 months dependent upon the conditions of storage. |
Borage seed oil and Evening primrose oil are used for preventing premature aging of the skin as well as for regenerative skin care. Both oils also reduce inflammation and are used for psoriasis, eczema, and atopic dermatitis. Use: 10 to 25% dilution of the total carrier oil amount |
JOJOBA OIL Simmondsia chinensis Shelf Life: Once opened, up to 12 to 24 months dependent upon the conditions of storage. |
What’s most fascinating about this oil is that its molecular structure resembles a liquid wax rather than a lipid-rich oil. Because of its chemical composition, our skin finds it familiar to our own sebum, and subsequently it is quite effective when applied to soothe inflammation, support resiliency, and bring the skin back into balance. Jojoba helps oily skin, particularly if pores are clogged and/or inflamed. It’s fast absorbing and stable. Jojoba is highly versatile and can be a central ingredient in a wide array of skin and body care products. It is quite lovely when infused with vanilla beans. There are a lot of recipes on the internet. |
NEEM OIL Azadirachta indica Shelf Life: Once opened, up to 6 to 9 months dependent upon the conditions of storage. |
Native to India, Neem oil has a very potent pungent diffusive aroma. The oil shines in its ability to address dandruff, dry itchy scalps, and dry, damaged hair. Neem oil is also used in body care products for acne, eczema, foot fungus, and oily skin. Neem oil also has mosquito-repellent qualities. Use: 10 to 100% dilution of the total carrier oil amount |
POMEGRANATE OIL AND CO2 TOTAL EXTRACT Punica granatum Shelf Life: Once opened, up to 6 to 9 months dependent upon the conditions of storage. |
Pomegranate oil and CO2 total extract soothes dermal inflammations such as acne, sunburn, psoriasis, and rosacea. It supports cellular regeneration, is a great antioxidant, improves skin elasticity, revitalizes prematurely aging or sun damaged skin, and is an incredibly beneficial emollient for dry skin conditions. Carrier oil: 10 to15% dilution of the total carrier oil amount CO2 total extract: 1 to 15% |
ROSEHIP SEED OIL AND CO2 TOTAL EXTRACT Rosa canina or Rosa rubignosa Shelf Life: Once opened, up to 6 to 9 months dependent upon the conditions of storage. |
Rosehip seed oil and CO2 total extract are most often used for supporting cellular rejuvenation and preventing premature aging of the skin. Either can be added to body care formulations for wound healing, to reduce age spots, and for regenerative skin care (tissue regeneration). Post-menopausal, dry, dehydrated, fragile, mature, and prematurely aging skin would all benefit from rosehip seed oil and total CO2 extract. Carrier oil: 10 to 50% dilution of the total carrier oil amount CO2 total extract: 1 to 15% |
SEA BUCKTHORN OIL Hippophae rhamnoides Shelf Life: Once opened, up to 6 to 9 months dependent upon the conditions of storage. |
Sea buckthorn’s vibrant orange colored carrier oil and CO2 total extract are used to support healing of the skin, reduce inflammation with conditions such as eczema or psoriasis. This oil supports wound healing, slow or poorly healing wounds, and healing the skin from sun damage. Carrier oil: 5 to 10% dilution of the total carrier oil amount CO2 total extract: 1 to 15% Note: Due to sea buckthorn’s rich orange color, it can stain clothing and other material it comes into contact with. Rinse material in cold soapy water immediately to remove oil. |
SESAME OIL Sesamum indicum Shelf Life: Up to 24 months. Sesame is one of the oils most resistant to oxidation because it contains the powerful natural antioxidants sesamolin and sesamin. |
Sesame is also used to protect our skin from free-radical damage, and it strengthens the resiliency of our skin’s barrier function with its trace vitamins and minerals. It has an oilier feel to the skin than jojoba and a very slight sesame-like aroma. |
SUNFLOWER OIL Helianthus annuus Shelf Life: Once opened, up to 12 months dependent upon the conditions of storage. |
Sunflower oil serves as a base oil that readily receives other more therapeutic carriers such as rosehip seed, calendula herbal oil, and pomegranate seed oil. Note: Sunflower is available as both an oleic-rich and linoleic-rich oil. Here we are discussing the use of the oleic-rich sunflower oil, which is most commonly available due to its stability even when exposed to heat. |
TAMANU OIL Calophyllum inophyllum Shelf Life: Once opened, up to 6 to 9 months dependent upon the conditions of storage. |
Tamanu oil is a rich, aromatic carrier oil with a wide range of applications, many of which are based upon its traditional uses. Native to Southeast Asia, the tamanu tree is also found in Thailand, Vietnam, Myanmar, Malaysia, South India, and Sri Lanka. Tamanu is cell regenerative, wound healing, supportive to healthy scar tissue formation, and anti-inflammatory. It is also incredibly beneficial for dry/scaly skin conditions (e.g., psoriasis). Use: 10 to 100% dilution of the total carrier oil amount |
HERBAL OILS
An herbal oil is made by combining plant material (e.g., dried calendula flowers) with a vegetable oil, typically extra virgin olive oil or oleic-rich sunflower oil, and allowing the plant material to soak in the oil for up to 3 months. During that time, the vegetable oil absorbs fat-soluble components from the plant material, many of which have therapeutic activity beneficial to the skin, muscles, and joints.
One of the herbal oils most commonly used in aromatherapy products is CALENDULA (Calendula officinalis). Calendula herbal oil soothes dry or inflamed skin, and it supports healing of mild burns, insect bites, and wounds. Calendula herbal oil also simply supports the health of the skin and can be used in facial oils, creams, lotions, and even gels.
ST. JOHN’S WORT (Hypericum perforatum) herbal oil is used in body care products such as gels or salves for insect bites, bruises, muscle pain, and inflamed skin conditions. St. John’s wort helps reduce inflammation and relieve pain.
ARNICA (Arnica montana) herbal oil is used to relieve pain, support microcirculation, and reduce inflammation. Arnica herbal oil is used in body oils, salves, and homemade creams and lotions (designed for application to a localized area, e.g., the knees or wrists). Arnica oil is used for bruises, arthritis, bursitis, myalgia, sprains and strains, joint stiffness, and varicose veins. Safety note: Arnica herbal oil should not be applied to broken or damaged skin.
PLANT-DERIVED BUTTERS
Butters provide a nutrient-dense component to essential oil-focused skin care recipes indicated for damaged, weakened, and stressed skin. Butters are used in lip balms and body butters in this book. However, you may also see them used in homemade cream and lotion recipes. Butters such as shea, mango, and illipe have a remarkable capacity to heal tissue, soften the skin, strengthen the skin’s barrier function, and prevent trans-epidermal water loss, thus preventing or healing dry skin.
The two most commonly used plant-based butters for aromatherapy body care products are shea butter and cocoa butter. They’re used for slightly different purposes. Let’s explore.
SHEA BUTTER (Vitellaria paradoxa (syn. Butyrospermum parkii)), extracted from the African shea nut tree, is softer to the touch than cocoa butter, and shares many of its therapeutic benefits. Shea butter softens and soothes dry, damaged skin and can relieve skin irritation. It can support tissue regeneration and resiliency. However, shea butter is commonly used in and of itself for making whipped or regular body butters. Cocoa butter could not be used by itself to make a body butter, but it can be added in smaller amounts to support the therapeutic benefits of the butter. Unrefined shea butter is light to darker yellow in color and has a nutty, earthy aroma. Shea butter is used in body butters, lip balms, body balms, and at times, salves. It can be used up to 25 to 100 percent of a body butter or in a homemade cream or lotion. The shelf life of shea butter is 12 to 24 months when stored correctly.
COCOA BUTTER (Theobroma cacao) is the natural fatty byproduct of making chocolate from cocoa beans. Cocoa butter is used in lip balms, body butters, and homemade creams and lotions, and will harden in any product made with it. Due to its thickening/hardening nature, cocoa butter is used in low amounts. It can support the skin’s health and prevent water loss—hence the reason why it is used in lip balms! It is recommended to use about 20 to 35 percent of the total recipe/formulation for body butters.
Unrefined cocoa butter smells strongly of chocolate, and it can often overpower the aromas of essential oils that are blended into it. We recommend choosing essential oils that smell good paired with the light scent of chocolate. Cocoa butter can last up to 2 to 5 years when stored properly. Keep away from heat, sunlight, and air. Note: Avoid over-heating cocoa butter. Over-heating or heating for too long breaks chemical bonds within the cocoa butter, resulting in its inability to harden again.
WAXES
For aromatherapy body care products, there are two core waxes to choose from: beeswax and a vegan alternative, candelilla wax. Wax is used in lip balms, salves, and homemade creams and lotions. It is used to thicken the product and is typically used at between 10 percent and 25 percent of the total recipe, depending on the product being made.
BEESWAX is typically a rich golden color, but it can vary depending on the propolis and colors within the pollen bees carry back to the hive. Beeswax has a beautiful sweet, honey-like aroma, which it imparts gently to the body care products that contain it. Please note: Bees and other pollinating insects face challenges in the ecosystems in which they play an essential role. If and when possible, purchase your beeswax from a local beekeeper, who uses healthy, sustainable practices.
CANDELILLA WAX is derived from the leaves of the small candelilla shrub, Euphorbia cerifera and Euphorbia antisyphilitica, which is native to northern Mexico and the southwestern United States. It is a yellowish-brown color and, like beeswax, is lightly aromatic. Candelilla wax is typically used at 10 to 12 percent of the total recipe. See here for a recipe for a lip balm made with candelilla wax.
HYDROSOLS: AROMATIC WATERS
Hydrosols, also known as hydrolats, are one of the products of the distillation process. Hydrosols are quickly becoming much beloved for their gentle yet exceptional benefits for the skin and on emotional well-being. Artisan distillers all over the world are producing small batch hydrosols from ethically wild-crafted indigenous plants or lovingly cultivated plants grown for hydrosol distillation. There’s never been a better time to explore these remarkable healing waters.
Hydrosols can soothe irritation, clean away bacteria and microbes from a cut or injury, reduce inflammation, support wound healing, soothe a sunburn, soothe irritated skin, and be used in gels for the skin, muscular aches and pains, or varicose veins.
Hydrosols can be used in baths, aromatic spritzers, homemade creams and lotions, and cleansers. They can also be used as toners for gentle skin care.
How much hydrosol to use?
• Baths
Infants: 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of chosen hydrosol to an infant bathtub
Children 2 to 6 years: 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of hydrosol per year of age, up to a maximum of 2 to 8 teaspoons (10 to 40 ml)
7 years and above and adults: 1 to 9 ounces (30 to 250 ml) per tub
• Foot bath (ages 7 years and above): 2 to 4 tablespoons (30 to 60 ml)
• Aromatic Spritzers: 10 to 100 percent of the total
• Toners: 50 to 100 percent of the total
• Homemade creams and lotions: Use for water portion of recipe
• Cleansers: approximately 1 teaspoon (5 ml) per ounce (28 ml) of liquid castile soap
To keep hydrosols fresh, it is important to keep them cool and away from direct light or heat. The average shelf life for most hydrosols is 12 to 24 months. Store hydrosols in a cool room or in the fridge to ensure freshness, stability, and liveliness of aroma. Stable, they can last up to 2 years.
Our Favorite Hydrosols
CALENDULA (Calendula officinalis): Calendula hydrosol is the best when it comes to having a first aid kit hydrosol, although using it with lavender or helichrysum hydrosols would make it even better. Prized for its wound healing, skin soothing, and antiseptic properties, calendula hydrosol can be used in gels or by itself for first aid. Spray on insect bites, mild cuts and scrapes, sunburns, and other inflamed skin conditions.
CLARY SAGE (Salvia sclarea): If ever there were a hydrosol for women of all ages, clary sage hydrosol would be it. Offering a powerful feminine energy, it can be spritzed into the air, used in a nourishing foot bath or full body bath, or sprayed on one’s pillow after a long stressful day.
ROSE GERANIUM (Pelargonium graveolens var. roseum): Rose geranium hydrosol, like its essential oil, offers balance to the skin and the mind. Slightly astringent, rose geranium is indicated for oily skin conditions and can be beneficial as a toner for acne. The aroma calms and soothes the emotions.
GERMAN CHAMOMILE (Matricaria chamomilla (syn. Matricaria recutita)): German chamomile is an amazing hydrosol for cooling inflamed conditions, including emotional states such as irritability and anger. It’s soothing for children and infants, whom it can help to fall asleep. Its ability to soothe inflamed skin conditions makes it a beneficial addition to a gel for applying to a sunburn.
HELICHRYSUM (Helichrysum italicum): Helichrysum is a wonderful hydrosol for wound healing, both physical and emotional. Aromatic sprays using helichrysum can be applied directly to a cut or burn to help keep the wound clean and to support the wound healing process. Helichrysum reduces inflammation and supports cellular regeneration.
LAVENDER (Lavandula angustifolia): Lavender, along with German chamomile, are our go-to hydrosols for infants and young children as well as the skin. Sprayed into the air, lavender hydrosol can calm emotions and prepare young ones for bed. It could also be used in a water-based diffusor to lightly scent the air for a good night’s sleep. Lavender hydrosol can also be used in infant baths or as a linen spray.
NEROLI, also called orange flower (Citrus aurantium var. amara): beautiful and floral, slightly astringent, yet expansively compassionate and gentle, Neroli hydrosol is a great facial toner for oily skin types or for those who are being emotionally affected by the appearance, however transitional, of their skin. Neroli hydrosol’s aroma is like a warm sunshine embrace.
ROSE (Rosa × damascena): Rose hydrosol is much loved for its beautiful aroma and gentleness to the heart and skin. It is a wonderful hydrosol for oily skin as well as for bug or insect bites, mild cuts and scrapes, and heat rash from the sun. Aromatically, rose hydrosol sprayed into the air can calm and soothe the heart, relieve tension, and nourish the mind.
WITCH HAZEL (Hamamelis virginiana): Witch hazel is often sold at pharmacy stores and is diluted down with rubbing alcohol. And although it is still used for cleaning wounds and supporting tissue healing, the hydrosol, in and of itself, is also used for bug or insect bites, mild cuts and scrapes, cleansing mild wounds, and reducing heat rash. Unlike other hydrosols, witch hazel hydrosol (without alcohol) has a shelf life of 8–12 months.
