GARDE-MANGER

The larder is not only where ingredients of all kinds are kept. It is also the name given to the person who is responsible for its contents. Working in the larder is usually a beginner’s job, one that trains you in the preparation of fish, seafood, meats, sauces, vinaigrettes, vegetables, and desserts. The garde-manger also sees to the proper stocking of the larder. Whatever the restaurant might need, he or she finds it.

To this day, the job of garde-manger in the larder remains my favourite.

ROASTED GARLIC

Prep: 5 min – Cook: 30 min – Makes: 2 heads

At the restaurant we go through 150 to 200 heads of garlic each week. Sweet and smoky, roasted garlic is the bomb.

> 2 heads garlic

> 1 tbsp (15 mL) olive oil

> salt and freshly ground pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).

2. Cut enough off the top of the heads of garlic to expose the cloves inside. Drizzle with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Wrap the garlic heads in foil and roast them for about 30 minutes or until they are soft. Let cool.

NOTE

The garlic will keep, in an airtight container in the fridge, for about a week.

Roasted garlic is a basic ingredient in quite a number of dishes. You could serve it with preserved pork belly, for example (see recipe p. 62).

CARROT BUTTER

Prep: 10 min – Cook: 30 min – Serves: 4

> 8 to 10 large carrots

> 1 tsp (5 mL) cornstarch

> lb (225 g) butter, diced

> salt and freshly ground pepper

1. Put the carrots in a juicer to extract 4 cups (1 L) carrot juice.

2. Transfer the carrot juice to a saucepan, whisk in the cornstarch, and boil until reduced to 1 cup (250 mL).

3. Reduce heat and whisk in the diced butter a few pieces at a time. Remove from heat and season with salt and pepper.

NOTE

You can use store-bought carrot juice if you don’t have a juicer.

Carrot butter is delicious on scallops, vegetarian risotto, sautéed mushrooms, lobster, or white fish. It is one of our signature sauces, much appreciated by vegetarians.

LOBSTER BUTTER

Prep: 5 min – Cook: 5 min – Makes: 1 lb [450 g]

The restaurant’s secret weapon: we use this in most of our seafood recipes to add depth and complex flavours.

> 1 lb (450 g) butter

> roe from 1 female lobster*

In a saucepan, melt the butter. Whisk in the roe.

NOTE

The butter keeps, in an airtight container in the fridge, for up to 3 months, or you can freeze it for up to 6 months.

I don’t strain lobster butter—it really isn’t necessary. The roe remains on the bottom and the butter on top.

*Whenever you cook a female lobster, use the roe to make this butter.

This butter is red. You can use it in a grilled cheese sandwich with bacon and seafood. You can sauté perogies in it, use it on pasta, brush it on grilled scallops, or stir it into a risotto. You can sauté vegetables like rapini with lobster butter, use it on corn or on a steak (for surf & turf) … go wild!

SEASONED SOUR CREAM

Mix all the ingredients in a bowl.

NOTE

Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

We use a lot of seasoned sour cream—it is a basic ingredient at the restaurant. It’s delicious with seafood.

CROUTONS

2. Combine the oil, butter, and steak spices in a large bowl. Add the bread and toss to coat well. Spread on a baking sheet and bake until croutons are golden and crisp, about 10 minutes.

NOTE

You can keep steak spice croutons, in an airtight container, for up to a week. At the restaurant we use them in a number of recipes.

2. Top each slice of bread with a slice of Cambozola. Put on a baking sheet and bake until the cheese melts. Cut into large cubes.

NOTE

Serve on fennel salad (see recipe p. 118) with tomatoes poached in olive oil (see recipe p. 60).

In a skillet, sauté the banana bread in the butter until crispy and golden.

NOTE

Serve with fruit salad topped with lemon or coconut yogurt.

STEAK SPICES

Crush all the ingredients with a mortar and pestle. Store in an airtight container and use within a couple of weeks for best flavour.

CHICKEN STOCK

In a stock pot, heat the oil over medium-high. Add the chicken carcass and brown it on all sides, about 5 minutes. Add the vegetables, herbs, and peppercorns. Cook for 10 minutes, until the vegetables are soft. Add the water and simmer very gently, uncovered, for 6 hours, skimming off any scum that rises to the surface. Strain the stock and skim off any fat. If necessary, simmer until reduced to 4 cups (1 L). Season with salt and pepper.

NOTE

You can keep chicken stock in the fridge for up to a week or up to 3 months in the freezer.

LOBSTER STOCK

1. In a large pot of boiling salted water, cook the lobsters for 6 to 7 minutes. Put them in a bowl of ice water to stop them from cooking further. When they’re cool enough to handle, shell them and remove the meat. Set aside the shells. (Use the meat immediately in one of the lobster recipes or refrigerate it for later use.)

2. In the same pot, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the carrot, onion, celery, and garlic; sweat, stirring constantly, for 5 minutes. Add the lobster shells, rosemary, thyme, ketchup, and peppercorns; continue cooking for 10 minutes, stirring constantly. Add the water and simmer, uncovered, for 2 hours.

3. Strain the stock, transfer it to a saucepan, and simmer until reduced to 4 cups (1 L). Season with salt.

NOTE

You can keep lobster broth in the fridge for up to a week or up to 3 months in the freezer.

Use this stock to make the sauce for lobster poutine (see recipe p. 82).

VEAL STOCK

2. Put the veal bones in a large roasting pan. Season with salt and pepper and drizzle with oil. Roast for 1 hour, turning them over halfway through. Spoon the tomato paste onto the bones. Scatter the garlic, carrots, onions, celery, and leeks around the bones. Roast for another hour or until all the vegetables are caramelized, stirring halfway through.

3. Transfer the bones and roasted vegetables to a stock pot. Add the thyme, rosemary, parsley, peppercorns, and 16 cups (4 L) of water. Remove the fat from the roasting pan and put the pan over medium heat. Add the remaining 1 cup (250 mL) of water and bring to a boil, scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to dissolve the brown bits. Add this liquid to the stock pot. Simmer over low heat for 8 hours, skimming the broth frequently during the first hour.

4. Strain the stock into a large pot. Skim the fat from the surface. Simmer until the stock is reduced to 4 cups (1 L), about 1 hour. Season to taste.

NOTE

You can keep veal stock for up to a week in the fridge or up to 3 months in the freezer.

PEROGIES

1. In a bowl, combine the potatoes, cream, green onions, Parmesan, and salt and pepper. Mix well. Set aside in the fridge for 30 minutes to solidify.

2. With a pastry brush, wet the edges of the wonton wrappers with water. Place 1 tsp (5 mL) of the potato mixture on a wrapper, slightly off-centre, fold over the wrapper, pushing out excess air, and pinch the edges to seal. Place on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.

3. In a pot of boiling salted water, cook the perogies in batches for 3 to 4 minutes or until tender. Drain.

NOTE

You can freeze uncooked perogies for up to 3 months. Don’t thaw them before cooking.

For an extra touch, add butter to the boiling water.

Perogies can also be deep-fried for a few minutes until they are crispy and golden. Drain on paper towels and season with salt and pepper.

WAFFLES

1. Combine the flour, baking powder, and salt in a bowl. In another bowl, whip the egg whites into soft mounds.

2. In a third bowl, stir together the sour cream, milk, butter, and egg yolks. Add to the dry ingredients, stirring just until combined. Gently fold in the egg whites.

3. Preheat a waffle iron. Use ½ cup (125 mL) of the batter for each waffle (manufacturers’ instructions may vary). Cook for 5 minutes or until the waffles are golden brown. Set aside and keep warm. Repeat with the remaining batter.

NOTE

Waffles can be either sweet or savoury. We use them in our fried hot chicken on waffles (see recipe p. 68).

MAYONNAISES

> juice of ½ lemon (or 1½ tsp/7 mL red wine vinegar or red wine vinegar mignonnette—see recipe p. 112)

In a blender or food processor, combine the egg, mustard, and lemon juice. With the motor running, drizzle in the oil until the mayonnaise has set. Season with salt and pepper.

NOTE

You can keep mayonnaise in the fridge for up to 5 days.

Finely chop 1 chipotle pepper in adobo sauce and mix with 1 cup (250 mL) basic mayonnaise.

Add 1 tbsp (15 mL) grated fresh horseradish (or prepared, if necessary), 2 cloves roasted garlic (see recipe p. 96), and the zest of 1 lemon to 1 cup (250 mL) basic mayonnaise.

Add 1 tsp (5 mL) smoked tomato vinaigrette (see recipe p. 135) to 1 cup (250 mL) basic mayonnaise.

Finely chop 2 preserved tomato halves (see recipe p. 134) and add to 1 cup (250 mL) basic mayonnaise.

Add 1 tbsp (15 mL) cocktail sauce (see recipe p. 128) to 1 cup (250 mL) basic mayonnaise.

Finely chop 4 marinated jalapeño pepper slices (see recipe p. 114) and mix with 1 cup (250 mL) basic mayonnaise.

WHITE BALSAMIC MIGNONNETTE

RED WINE VINEGAR MIGNONNETTE

Mix the ingredients in a jar.

NOTE

These mignonnettes keep well in the fridge. Use within 2 weeks.

At the restaurant we serve mignonnette with fresh oysters and a couple of lemon wedges. I also use it to flavour mayonnaise.

PRALINE PECANS

2. In a small saucepan, bring the sugar and water to a boil, stirring gently with a fork until the sugar dissolves. Cook until the caramel is golden, gently swirling the pan to help it colour evenly.

3. Remove from heat, add the pecans, and quickly stir with a wooden spoon to coat the nuts. Quickly spread these on the baking sheet. Season with the salt. Let cool. Break into pieces.

NOTE

These pecans are a wonderful garnish for desserts and delicious in salads. They also make an excellent snack.

The pecans will keep, in an airtight container at room temperature, for several weeks.

MARINATED JALAPEÑO PEPPERS

1. In a pot of boiling water, blanch the jalapeños for 30 seconds. Drain the peppers. Pour fresh water into the pot and repeat this step twice to reduce the intensity of the peppers. (If you like them very spicy, blanch them only once.)

2. In the same pot bring the vinegar and sugar to a boil, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Add the jalapeños and simmer for 1 minute. Pour into jars.

NOTE

The peppers keep for up to 2 weeks refrigerated.

At the restaurant, we use these peppers in our shrimp roll (see recipe p. 192) and add them to our spicy lobster (see p. 70) as well as our jerk crab (see p. 76).

These jalapeño slices are great in a martini, in spaghetti sauce, on a hamburger, with roast chicken—you name it.

FENNEL SALAD

Prep: 5 min – serves: 4

> 1 fennel bulb, thinly sliced with a mandoline

> 2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil

> juice of 2 lemons

> salt and freshly ground pepper

Toss together all the ingredients.

NOTE

This salad is great with a number of our recipes, such as wreckfish and Laughing Bird shrimp salad (see recipe p. 88) and sardines and roasted tomatoes on toast (see recipe p. 50).

CUCUMBER SALAD

Prep: 5 min – serves: 4

> 2 English cucumbers, peeled and thinly sliced

> 2 big handfuls chopped dill

> ¼ cup (60 mL) white vinegar

> 2 tbsp (30 mL) sugar

> 1 garlic clove, minced

> 1 tsp (5 mL) salt

> freshly ground pepper

Toss together all the ingredients.

NOTE

This salad is wonderful on its own. You can also mix it with other salads or use it as a garnish on fish or any kind of fowl.

This is Chris’s mom’s recipe. He works with us at the restaurant.

CELERIAC RÉMOULADE

Prep: 5 min – Serves: 4

> 1 large celeriac, peeled

> ¼ cup (60 mL) basic mayonnaise (see recipe p. 111)

> 2 tbsp (30 mL) Dijon mustard

> salt and freshly ground pepper

With a mandoline or food processor, finely julienne the celeriac. (You should have about 3 cups/750 mL.) Mix well with the remaining ingredients.

NOTE

At Garde-Manger, we serve this rémoulade with veal cheeks in beer (see recipe p. 40).

TOMATO, AVOCADO, AND FRIED CHEDDAR SALAD

Prep: 10 min – Cook: 5 min – serves: 4

One of my favourite things about cooking is creating contrast in texture, and keeping things playful. This is a basic tomato salad, but the crispy, molten Cheddar cubes take it to the next level—and they’re really fun to eat.

SALAD

> 4 large vine-ripened tomatoes, diced

> 2 avocados, diced

> 1 English cucumber, seeded and diced

> 1 shallot, thinly sliced

> 1 handful chopped basil

> 1 handful chopped chives

> 1 handful chopped dill

> 3 tbsp (45 mL) olive oil

> 2 tbsp (30 mL) white balsamic vinegar

> salt and freshly ground pepper

> steak spice croutons (see recipe p. 100)

FRIED CHEDDAR

> canola oil for deep-frying

> 1 cup (250 mL) flour

> salt and freshly ground pepper

> 4 eggs

> 1 lb (450 g) aged Cheddar cheese, cut in bite-size pieces

For the salad:

1. Toss together the tomatoes, avocados, cucumber, shallot, and herbs. Add the olive oil and vinegar; toss again. Season with salt and pepper.

For the fried Cheddar:

2. Heat the oil in a deep-fryer or large, deep pot to 350°F (180°C).

3. Put the flour in a bowl and season with salt and pepper. In another bowl whisk the eggs.

4. Coat the pieces of Cheddar with the flour, tapping off any excess. Coat with the eggs, then once again with the flour. Working in batches, fry the cheese for 2 minutes or until golden. Drain on paper towels and season with salt and pepper.

5. Serve the salad topped with the croutons and the fried Cheddar.

NOTE

We use two-year-old Cheddar from Île-aux-Grues, but any good aged Cheddar will do.

During tomato season, we have a variety to choose from: cherry, yellow, red, etc.

BLACK GARLIC SALSA

Prep: 10 min – Serves: 4

Black garlic is a Korean ingredient; it has a fermented, sweet, acidic flavour with a pungent smokiness. Serve this as you would any salsa, and wow your guests.

> cloves from 2 heads black garlic, peeled

> 1 onion, coarsely chopped

> 1 cucumber, seeded and diced

> 3 vine-ripened tomatoes, quartered and seeded

> 2 jalapeño peppers, seeded and finely chopped

> zest and juice of 1 lime

> 3 tbsp (45 mL) olive oil

> salt and freshly ground pepper

Put all the ingredients in a food processor and pulse until the mixture is combined but still has a coarse texture.

RED WINE SAUCE

Prep: 15 min – Cook: 1 h 30 – serves: 4

> 4 cups (1 L) veal stock (see recipe p. 106)

> 1 shallot, chopped

> 1 large beet, washed and cubed

> 2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil

> 1 tbsp (15 mL) mustard seeds

> 3 tbsp (45 mL) honey

> ¼ cup (60 mL) orange juice

> cup (125 mL) sherry vinegar or Banyuls vinegar

> 4 cups (1 L) red wine

> ¼ cup (60 mL) butter, diced

> salt and freshly ground pepper

1. In a large saucepan, simmer the veal stock until it is reduced to 1 cup (250 mL).

2. Meanwhile, in a large pot on high heat, briefly sauté the shallot and the beet in the olive oil. Add the mustard seeds, honey, orange juice, and vinegar. Reduce by half. Add the red wine, lower the heat to medium, and simmer until the liquid is reduced to 1 cup (250 mL), about 1 hour. Strain through a fine sieve, pressing on the vegetables to extract the maximum amount of flavour and juice.

3. Over the next half hour, add red wine reduction to the veal stock reduction, 1 ladle at a time, letting it simmer for a while after each addition, until you get the texture and flavour you want. Whisk in the butter, a few pieces at a time. Season with salt and pepper.

NOTE

Any leftover simmered sauce is an ideal base for a new sauce. Instead of using this recipe, simply strain your simmered sauce through a sieve and whisk in some butter.

COCKTAIL SAUCE

Prep: 5 min – Serves: 4

> 1 cup (250 mL) ketchup

> ¼ cup (60 mL) Worcestershire sauce

> 2 tbsp (30 mL) grated fresh horseradish

> 1 tbsp (15 mL) prepared horseradish

> 1 tbsp (15 mL) cognac

> 1 tsp (5 mL) Tabasco sauce

> 1 celery rib, finely chopped

> juice of 1 lemon

> salt and freshly ground pepper

Mix together all the ingredients. Chill until needed.

NOTE

At the restaurant we finely chop the celery in a food processor, then squeeze the liquid from it before mixing it with the remaining ingredients.

Serve this cocktail sauce with oysters, like we do. Or treat it as a high-end ketchup with fries. Our restaurant crew loves it with their omelettes. And it’s great with bib steak and other meats.

BARBECUE SAUCE

Prep: 15 min – Cook: 1 h 30 – Makes: 4 cups (1 L)

> 3 onions, thinly sliced

> 1 tbsp (15 mL) canola oil

> 2 cups (500 mL) ketchup

> 1 cup (250 mL) espresso or black coffee

> 1 can (165 mL) Coca-Cola

> 1 chipotle pepper in adobo sauce, finely chopped

> 1 tsp (5 mL) Worcestershire sauce

> salt and freshly ground pepper

In a large skillet over low heat, cook the onions in the oil until golden, about 45 minutes. Add the remaining ingredients. Simmer for 45 minutes, stirring once in a while. Let cool.

NOTE

Barbecue sauce will keep, refrigerated, for up to a week.

The caramelized onions are what make this sauce. Cooking them slowly on low heat brings out their natural sweetness, so their taste differs from those cooked on higher heat and with sugar. You can spread them on all kinds of things, including roast chicken.

CARAMELIZED ONION SPREAD

Prep: 10 min – Cook: 45 min – Makes: 3 cups (750 mL)

> ¼ cup (60 mL) olive oil

> 8 onions, thinly sliced

> 2 cups (500 mL) cream cheese, softened

> 1 tsp (5 mL) smoked paprika

> tsp (2 mL) cayenne pepper

> salt and freshly ground pepper

1. In a large skillet, warm the oil over low heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring regularly, until golden, about 45 minutes.

2. Let cool. Combine with the cream cheese and spices.

NOTE

Rummage through your pantry and try this recipe with whatever you find (preserved garlic, smoked tomatoes, preserved tomatoes, what have you).

On opening night at Garde-Manger, we had no idea what to serve with the bread. Olive oil, butter, we weren’t sure. We had a large amount of cream cheese on hand, one of the basic ingredients for our crew meals. One of the kitchen crew decided to add caramelized onions to the cream cheese. And so this spread was born. At Garde-Manger it has become one of our signature staples.

PRESERVED TOMATOES

Prep: 5 min – Cook: 8 h – serves: 4

> 12 Roma tomatoes, blanched, peeled, cut in half lengthwise, and seeded

> 1 head garlic, cut in half crosswise

> 2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil, plus more for storing

> leaves from 4 sprigs rosemary, finely chopped

> leaves from 4 sprigs thyme, finely chopped

> salt and freshly ground pepper

> 2 tbsp (30 mL) icing sugar

1. Preheat the oven to 200°F (100°C).

2. Spread the tomatoes, cut side down, on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Add the garlic. Drizzle with olive oil, then sprinkle the herbs over top. Season with salt and pepper. Using a fine sieve, sift the icing sugar over the tomatoes. Cook in the oven overnight or until the tomatoes are softened and wrinkled.

3. Let cool. Transfer the tomatoes to jars, cover with olive oil, and store in the fridge. They will keep for a couple of weeks.

NOTE

Use only the very best ripe tomatoes. If you are short on time and cooking overnight is not an option, roast the tomatoes at 400°F (200°C) for 45 minutes. The flavours will be less intense but just as good.

SMOKED TOMATO VINAIGRETTE

Prep: 15 min – Cook: 15 min – Makes: 4 cups (1 L)

> 12 vine-ripened tomatoes, cut in half crosswise and seeded

> 1 shallot, thinly sliced

> leaves from 2 sprigs tarragon

> 1 cup (250 mL) olive oil

> 1 tbsp (15 mL) honey

> juice of ½ lemon

> salt and freshly ground pepper

Smoke the tomatoes, shallot, and tarragon in a smoker for 15 minutes. Coarsely purée the mixture in a blender. Stir in the olive oil, honey, and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper.

NOTE

A smoker really is a good investment. It adds a lot of flavour and is not expensive. If you don’t have access to one, use preserved tomatoes (see recipe p. 134). Add the shallot and tarragon when you are ready to purée.