The revolver is still a viable choice for many kinds of shooting: recreation, hunting, or self defense.
Not that long ago the preferred handgun of both police and private citizens was the double action revolver. They were carried on duty, used to protect the home, shot in competition, and held their own as plinkers and fun guns. Their operation was well known, and learning how to properly handle their long, heavy triggers was a point of pride for many firearms instructors.
In the 1970s that started to change. The autoloading pistol was migrating from military service to law enforcement, and as it gained acceptance in those arenas the general public came to see the revolver as “old-fashioned.” By the end of the century the autoloader had almost completely replaced the revolver in police service -- and for a large percentage of private citizens as well.
Today it’s rare to see a revolver in a police duty holster. On occasion you’ll find a veteran officer carrying one, and in sparsely populated areas some cops prefer them for their ability to fire powerful, flat-shooting Magnum cartridges. Other than that the revolver has been relegated to the status of the backup: an arm used to supplant the primary arm should it become inoperable or lost.
Still, nearly forty percent of all handgun sales in the U.S. are revolvers. That’s because the revolver still has some advantages - some obvious, some not - over the ubiquitous autoloader.
Common malfunctions like this don’t occur with a revolver.
The revolver is generally more reliable than an autoloader of similar quality. This isn’t to say that malfunctions can’t occur with a revolver, only that they’re less common. What malfunctions do occur are almost always a function of improper reloading technique (which I’ll cover in a later chapter) or poor quality ammunition.
A malfunction that needs clearing is quite rare. The most common problem, a failure to fire, is usually solved by stroking the trigger again and using better ammo. Another common malfunction is a case caught under the extractor, which renders the gun inoperative until fixed. It is prevented by proper reloading technique.
There is a malfunction clearing process for the very rare instances not covered above, and I’ll show you that, but needing to perform the drill is quite rare. Because of this inherent reliability, less training time is expended in malfunction drills which means more time for learning the important task of shooting!
A revolver doesn’t need just the right grip to keep it running; there is no “limp wrist” malfunction with a wheelgun. Shooting from disadvantaged positions or while injured won’t stop the gun from operating.
During an actual defensive encounter, the revolver is more resistant to induced failures. The revolver isn’t jammed by clothing or incompletely ejected casings. With an autoloader, slight contact can actually slow the slide enough to induce a malfunction. That’s not an issue with the revolver, making it ideal for close-quarters defensive duties. The shrouded or concealed hammer models are about as immune to such problems as can be imagined.
Some defensive schools teach shooting while in contact with an adversary. Whether that’s an appropriate response is beyond the scope of this book, but in such cases the revolver works perfectly where the auto can be jammed at the first shot.
Because of this it’s also possible to fire a revolver from inside a pocket without fear of malfunction. Shooting the revolver from inside a purse holster is also doable (and perhaps even necessary in the event of a purse grab.) An autoloader wouldn’t be as reliable under those circumstances.
(It’s important to understand that both autos and revolvers can be deliberately rendered inoperable by a very determined assailant. It’s the inadvertent failures, those that are situationally caused, that aren’t a problem for the revolver.)
A revolver is easier to fit to the hand. An autoloader, even one of the few that feature interchangeable backstraps, is still limited by the dimensions of its magazine well. A revolver’s grip can be easily changed to be longer, shorter, deeper, shallower, wider, or thinner. The angle at which the gun sits in the hand can even be altered on some models. In most cases it’s a cinch to make the revolver fit the hand perfectly.
The revolver is self contained, and doesn’t need expensive magazines to operate.
One overlooked feature of the revolver is that it operates without ammunition. While I’m not a big proponent of extensive dry fire, the fact that the revolver is fully functional without ammo means that dry fire training is more useful than it is with an autoloader. There’s no interruption in the firing cycle, so trigger control is learned faster than if you had to stop to constantly rack a slide. I don’t know about you, but my brain learns best when it can experience a complete cycle of an event, and this is more easily done with the revolver.
The revolver is not only less expensive to purchase, it’s less expensive to operate as well. The gun itself tends to be less expensive than an auto of equal quality, but that’s just the start!
If you have a defensive autoloader, it’s imperative that you test its function with the ammunition that you plan to carry. Recommendations vary, but the most common is that you shoot 200 rounds of that ammunition through the gun. If you’ve priced ammunition lately, you know how much that can cost!
With a revolver, you need to test your ammunition primarily to adjust the sights, or to verify that the bullet impact matches your non-adjustable sights. A couple of cylinders is all that takes, and you can then substitute cheaper practice or range ammo.
Of course there are no expensive magazines to buy. If you shoot your autoloader a lot, most authorities recommend that you have a half-dozen magazines for that gun. That’s a lot of money, and magazines are disposable parts: they wear out or can be damaged relatively easily. That’s an expense the revolver doesn’t have.
Speaking of magazines, one of my favorite revolver attributes is that there aren’t any. Sometimes I go to the range with several guns, and when I’m dealing with autoloaders more than once I’ve forgotten to bring a magazine. The revolver doesn’t have that problem because the magazine is part and parcel of the gun. Even many years from now a revolver bought today will still be operational, while I’ve run into many autoloaders over the years that are missing their magazines.
I know I’m picking on the magazine issue, but another point is that it’s impossible to load rounds into a revolver backwards. I’ve seen more than one person load a round into a magazine backwards, and that causes a heck of a jam. Admittedly the incidence goes down with familiarization, but I remember one match I shot where a seasoned competitor loaded a round backwards in the middle of his magazine. Boy, was his face red!
I’m not a fan of the word “tactical,” but there is one revolver advantage that fits the term: should you need to pick your gun up from a table (or even the ground), the protruding cylinder makes a small gap between the gun and the surface on which it’s resting. This makes it a bit easier to retrieve than an autoloader which rests flat on the surface. A small difference, to be sure, but one which could prove valuable in the event that you need to pick yours up in a hurry!
A revolver has a simple manual of arms, meaning that it is easier to handle and operate. Many people say they pick a revolver because it’s easier to manipulate: no confusing buttons or levers, and a direct and unambiguous loading and unloading procedure. This makes it a superb choice for a home defense gun in those cases where one person is an enthusiast but his or her partner may not be. Anyone can pick up a revolver and shoot it.
This manual of arms is generally consistent across all revolver makes and models. There are exceptions, of course, but they are very rare. For the overwhelming majority of double action revolvers in circulation, all of the controls are in the same place and do pretty much the same thing. If you know how to run a Ruger, being handed a Smith & Wesson is not going to make you stop and scratch your head in confusion.
Since the revolver has a long, heavy trigger it’s more immune to adrenaline-induced accidental discharge. While most trainers (including me) stress that the finger should be outside of the triggerguard unless actually shooting, we must acknowledge that not everyone does this – especially those who haven’t been formally trained. In such hands, after being startled out of bed or in stress after ordering someone on the ground, it’s probably better that the gun require significant effort to shoot.
While many revolvers today have built in locks, it’s a simple matter to lock up any revolver: simply open the cylinder and hook a padlock through the frame opening. If you have a long-shackle lock, you can even run it through one of the chambers. It’s a simple matter to simultaneously lock the gun to something immovable, making it safe from accidents and from theft as well.
The revolver’s rounded shapes make it easier to pick up from a table or draw from a holster.
It’s been said that learning to shoot a revolver well helps you shoot all guns better. I’ve found that’s true, but only if you understand the why behind the techniques. I’ll go into this in Chapter Five.
One benefit that doesn’t seem like a benefit is that the revolver isn’t an easy gun to master. I’ve said for many years that the revolver is the easiest gun to shoot but the hardest gun to shoot well. There is a personal satisfaction to shooting a revolver well, and it’s magnified when you can do it to the point that you can beat people who insist on using those newfangled self-shucking things!
Finally, many people simply feel more at home with a gun that doesn’t look like a military or police arm. I’m not of that persuasion, and I suspect you may not be either, but to many people the revolver presents a friendlier image than that of any other gun – except, perhaps, for the old lever-action rifle. If I’m taking a new person to the range, a person who has no exposure to guns and is a little apprehensive about the whole affair, I’ll let them shoot revolvers first (and perhaps exclusively.) I’m sure that some will accuse me of pandering to other’s fears, but I believe that we gain converts, or at least don’t make enemies, by presenting shooting in its most favorable light. The revolver is just the tool to do that. After all, Barney Fife carried one, and who doesn’t love Barney?!
I don’t think I’ve made much of a secret that I’m a big fan of the revolver, nor of my belief that they have a lot of advantages over autoloading pistols. I’m a partisan, of that there is no doubt, yet the revolver isn’t right for every shooter or every application.
Safety first - always keep your finger outside the trigger guard until you are ready to shoot!
First, of course, are those situations where capacity is important. The double action revolver is a great tool for personal defense, but the limited ammunition capacity makes it unsuitable for military use. Were I a police officer, particularly one assigned to an urban area where gangs and heavily armed offenders were commonplace, I doubt I’d choose a revolver as a primary arm (and I probably wouldn’t be allowed to, in any case).
While many people tout the revolver as being a good choice for those with limited upper body strength, I’m not so sure it’s always practical. Those people I’ve encountered who have strength issues with their arms or hands, such that they can’t operate an autoloading pistol, often lack the strength or range of movement to operate a revolver’s heavy double action trigger. While gunsmithing can help this to some degree, I’ve encountered many folks who just couldn’t handle the trigger weight. With proper technique those same people often were able to use an autoloader, and for them it was a better choice.
Revolvers aren’t well suited to the mounting and use of weapon lights. The presence of the ejector rod generally requires that the light be mounted very far forward, where it is difficult to actuate with the hands in a shooting position. There are revolvers on the market with mounting rails near the muzzle, but ease of operation issues have limited their popularity.
A revolver does recoil more with any given level of cartridge power than an equivalent autoloader. There have been revolvers chambered in 9mm, for instance, and they display markedly more recoil than that same cartridge in an auto of equal weight. This is because there is no reciprocating slide and recoil spring to use up any of the recoil energy. With a revolver, it’s all transmitted straight into the shooter’s hands. For those who are recoil sensitive, or whose hand strength presents control issues, the revolver is much less pleasant to shoot.
Any gun has strengths and weaknesses, and though I do love revolvers I think it’s important to acknowledge their faults. Consider carefully!
This is an excerpt from the Gun Digest Book of the Revolver. To get a hard copy, visit gundigeststore.com. To learn more about revolvers visit gundigest.com.
8-inch bore rod (rotates to follow rifling – for barrels)
8-inch fixed rod (doesn’t rotate – for chambers)
Bronze bore brush, caliber-specific (buy several, they wear out)
Jag or nylon bore brush, caliber-specific (for running patches through barrel)
Bronze bore brush, one caliber size up - i.e., a .40 caliber for a .357 gun (for brushing chambers)
Bronze Tornado brush, caliber-specific (for cleaning leaded barrels)
Nylon bore brush, one size up (for running patches through chambers)
Toothbrush or ‘GI Toothbrush’ (general cleaning)
Patches, cotton twill (I prefer squares of appropriate size)
Chore Boy Pure Copper scrubbing pads (for cleaning leaded or very dirty bores, cylinder flutes)
Oiler with narrow, long spout
Cotton swabs
Bore cleaner of your choice (do not use copper removing cleaners)
Lubricating oil (light, prefer type with anti-wear and anti-oxidant properties)
Rust preventative, your choice (based on information in Chapter Ten)
Spare batteries for laser (if so equipped)
Gunsmith (hollow-ground) screwdrivers (to occasionally check screws for tightness)
Years ago I mixed my first Ed’s Red (ER) bore cleaner and hundreds of users have told me that they think this home-mixed cleaner is more effective than commercial products. I urge you to mix some and give it a fair trial, compared to whatever you have been using. Competitive shooters, gun clubs, and police departments who use a gallon or more of rifle bore cleaner annually can save by mixing their own, and they will give up nothing in safety or effectiveness.
This cleaner has an action very similar to standard military-issue rifle bore cleaner, such as Mil-C-372B. Users report it is more effective than Hoppe’s for removing plastic fouling in shotgun bores or caked carbon fouling in semi-automatic rifles or pistols, or in removing leading in revolvers. It is not as effective as Sweets 7.62, Hoppe’s Bench Rest Nine or Shooter’s Choice for fast removal of heavy copper fouling in rifle bores. However, because ER is more effective in removing caked carbon and abrasive primer residues than other cleaners, metal fouling is greatly reduced when ER is used on a continuing basis.
I originally came up with this mix because I am an active high power rifle competitive shooter and handloading experimenter who uses a lot of rifle bore cleaner. I was not satisfied with the performance and high price of commercial products. I knew there was no technical reason why an effective firearm bore cleaner couldn’t be mixed using common hardware store ingredients. The result is inexpensive, effective, and provides good corrosion protection and adequate residual lubrication so that routine oiling after cleaning is rarely necessary, except for long-term storage of over one year, or harsh service environments, such as saltwater exposure.
This formula is based on proven principles and incorporates two polar and two nonpolar solvents. It is adapted from the one in Hatcher’s Notebook for “Frankford Arsenal Cleaner No.18,” but substituting equivalent modern materials. I had the help of an organic chemist in doing this and we knew there would be no “surprises.” The original Hatcher formula called for equal parts of acetone, turpentine, Pratts Astral Oil, and sperm oil, and optionally 200 grams of anhydrous lanolin added per liter. Some discussion of the ingredients is helpful to understand the properties of the cleaner and how it works.
Pratts Astral oil was nothing more than acid free, deodorized kerosene. I recommend K1 kerosene of the type normally sold for use in indoor space heaters. Some users have reported successful substitution of civilian aviation grade kerosene such as Turbo-A. I am reluctant to recommend substitution of aviation grade kerosene, because the effects upon firearm components of the additives required in aviation fuels are unknown. Some jet fuels are gasoline/kerosene blends and absolutely should not be used because of their increased flammability.
An inexpensive, effective substitute for sperm oil is Dexron (II, IIe or III) automatic transmission fluid. Prior to about 1950 most ATFs were sperm oil based, but during WWII a synthetic was developed for use in precision instruments. With the great demand for automatic transmission autos after WWII, sperm oil was no longer practical to produce ATF in the quantity demanded, so the synthetic material became the basis for the Dexron fluids we know today. The additives in ATFs, which include organometallic antioxidants and surfactants, make it highly suitable for inclusion in an all-purpose cleaner-lubricant-preservative.
Hatcher’s original Frankford Arsenal No. 18 formula used gum spirits of turpentine. Because turpentine is expensive today, and is also an aromatic solvent, which is highly flammable, I chose not to use it. Safer and cheaper is aliphatic mineral spirits, a petroleum-based safety solvent used for thinning oil-based paints and also widely used as an automotive parts cleaner. It is commonly sold under the names odorless mineral spirits, Stoddard Solvent, or Varsol.
Acetone is included in ER to provide an aggressive, fast-acting solvent for caked powder residues. Because acetone is an aromatic, organic solvent, it is recommended that users leave it out if the cleaner will be used in enclosed spaces lacking forced air ventilation. The acetone in ER will evaporate, liberating volatile organic compounds (VOCs) into the atmosphere unless containers are kept tightly closed when not in use. The cleaner is still effective without the acetone, but it is not as fast-acting.
There isn’t anything in Ed’s Red which chemically dissolves copper fouling in rifle bores, but it does a better job removing carbon and primer residue than anything else which is safe and commonly available. Numerous users have told me, that exclusive use of ER reduces copper deposits, because it removes the old impacted powder fouling which is left by other cleaners, which reduces the abrasion and adhesion of jacket metal to the bore surface, leaving a cleaner surface condition which reduces subsequent fouling. Experience seems to indicate that ER will actually remove metal fouling if you let it soak, so the surfactants will do the job, though you have to be patient.
Addition of the lanolin to ER bore cleaner mix is entirely optional. The cleaner works quite well and gives adequate corrosion protection and lubrication for most users without it. Incorporating the lanolin makes the cleaner easier on the hands, increases lubricity and film strength, and improves corrosion protection if weapons will be routinely exposed to salt air, water spray, industrial or urban corrosive atmospheres, or if you intend to use the cleaner as a protectant for long term storage of over one year.
If you use other protective films for adverse use or long term storage, you can leave the lanolin out and save about $8 per gallon. At current retail prices you can buy all the ingredients to mix ER, without the lanolin, for about $10 per gallon. I urge you to mix some yourself. I am confident it will work as well for you as it does for me and hundreds of users who got the recipe on the Fidonet Firearms Echo.
Mix outdoors, in good ventilation. Use a clean one-gallon, metal, chemical-resistant, heavy gage PET or PVC plastic container. NFPA approved plastic gasoline storage containers are also okay. DO NOT use HDPE, which is permeable, because the acetone will eventually evaporate. The acetone in ER will also attack HDPE, causing the container to collapse, making a heck of a mess!
Add the ATF first. Use the empty container to measure the other components, so that it is thoroughly rinsed. If you incorporate lanolin into the mixture, melt this carefully in a double boiler, taking precautions against fire. Pour the melted lanolin into a larger container, rinsing the lanolin container with the bore cleaner mix, and stirring until it is all dissolved.
I recommend diverting a small quantity, up to four ounces. per quart of the 50-50 ATF/kerosene mix for optional use as an ER-compatible gun oil. This can be done without impairing the effectiveness of the remaining mix.
RIFLE BORE CLEANER CAUTION: FLAMMABLE MIXTURE HARMFUL IF SWALLOWED. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN
1. Flammable mixture. Keep away from heat, sparks or flame.
2. FIRST AID, If swallowed DO NOT induce vomiting, call physician immediately. In case of eye contact immediately flush thoroughly with water and call a physician. For skin contact wash thoroughly.
3. Use with adequate ventilation. Avoid breathing vapors or spray mist. It is a violation of Federal law to use this product in a manner inconsistent with its labeling. Reports have associated repeated and prolonged occupational overexposure to solvents with permanent brain and nervous system damage. If using in closed armory vaults lacking forced air ventilation, wear respiratory protection meeting NIOSH TC23C or equivalent. Keep container tightly closed when not in use.
1. Open the firearm action and ensure the bore is clear. Cleaning is most effective when done while the barrel is still warm to the touch from firing. Saturate a cotton patch with bore cleaner, wrap or impale on jag and push it through the bore from breech to muzzle. The patch should be a snug fit. Let the first patch fall off and do not pull it back into the bore.
2. Wet a second patch, and similarly start it into the bore from the breech, this time scrubbing from the throat area forward in four- to five-inch strokes and gradually advancing until the patch emerges out the muzzle. Waiting approximately one minute to let the bore cleaner soak will improve its action.
3. For pitted, heavily carbon-fouled “rattle battle” guns, leaded revolvers or neglected bores a bronze brush wet with bore cleaner may be used to remove stubborn deposits. This is unnecessary for smooth, target-grade barrels in routine use.
4. Use a final wet patch pushed straight through the bore to flush out loosened residue dissolved by Ed’s Red. Let the patch fall off the jag without pulling it back into the bore. If you are finished firing, leaving the bore wet will protect it from rust for one year under average conditions.
5. If the lanolin is incorporated into the mixture it will protect the firearm from rust for up to two years. For longer term storage I recommend use of Lee Liquid Alox as a Cosmolene substitute. ER will readily remove hardened Alox or Cosmolene.
6. Wipe spilled Ed’s Red from exterior surfaces before storing the gun. While Ed’s Red is harmless to blue and nickel finishes, the acetone it contains is harmful to most wood finishes.
7. Before firing again, push two dry patches through the bore and dry the chamber, using a patch wrapped around a suitably sized brush or jag. First shot point-of-impact usually will not be disturbed by Ed’s Red if the bore is cleaned as described.
8. I have determined to my satisfaction that, when Ed’s Red is used exclusively and thoroughly, hot water cleaning is unnecessary after use of Pyrodex or military chlorate primers. However, if bores are not wiped between shots and are heavily caked from black powder fouling, hot water cleaning is recommended first to break up heavy fouling deposits. Water cleaning should be followed by a thorough flush with Ed’s Red to prevent after-rusting, which could result from residual moisture. It is ALWAYS good practice to clean TWICE, TWO DAYS APART whenever using chlorate primed ammunition, just to make sure you get all the corrosive residue out.
Altamont Inc.
P.O. Box 309
Thomasboro, IL 61878
(800) 626-5774
OEM grip supplier for S&W revolvers.
Hogue, Inc.
P.O. Box 1138
Paso Robles, CA 93447-1138
(800) GET-GRIP
Rubber & wood grips for a wide variety of revolvers.
Pachmayr - Div. of Lyman Products Corp.
475 Smith Street
Middletown, CT 06457
(800) 225-9626
Rubber, nylon grips for many revolvers.
Don Collins
7761 Lakewood Dr.
Unionville, IN 47468
http://www.collinscraftgrips.com
Custom gripmaker, works in wood, ivory, and Corian.
Craig Spegel
P.O. Box 387, Nehalem, OR 97131
(503) 368-5653
Grips from rare woods for S&W revolvers only, but he might make them for your Colt if you plead your case!
Eagle Grips
460 Randy Road
Carol Stream, IL 60188
(800) 323-6144
Grip manufacturer, makes wood & plastic grips for many hard-to-fit guns; one of the few to offer a selection of Ruger grips.
Herrett Stocks, Inc.
P.O. Box 741
Twin Falls, ID 83303-0741
(208)-733-1498
True custom-fit stocks at reasonable prices.
Blu Magnum Custom Grips
2605 East Willamette Ave.
Colorado Springs, CO 80909
(719) 632-2780
High end custom grips for S&W revolvers.
LB Custom Grips
The only custom gripmaker I know who works with Dan Wesson revolvers.
Gemini Customs - Marc Morganti
717 Botkins Lane
Frankfort, KY 40601
(502) 226-1230
Grips for S&W and Ruger revolvers.
Code-Eagle
1741 Forrest Way
Carson City, NV 89706
(775) 885-9992
Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers’ Institute (SAAMI)
11 Mile Hill Road
Newtown, Connecticut 06470-2539
(203) 426-4358
The source for technical information regarding any aspect of ammunition performance. Extensive website.
Steel Challenge Shooting Association (SCSA)
826 Metcalf Street PMB 73
Sedro Woolley, WA 98284
(360) 855-2245
International Confederation of Revolver Enthusiasts (ICORE)
P.O. Box 6898
Los Osos, CA 93412
The only organization exclusively devoted to revolver competition
International Defensive Pistol Association (IDPA)
2232 CR 719
Berryville, AR 72616
(870) 545-3886
United States Practical Shooting Association (USPSA)
P.O. Box 811
Sedro-Woolley, WA 98284
(360) 855-2245
National Rifle Association
11250 Waples Mill Road
Fairfax, VA 22030
(800) 672-3888
International Handgun Metallic Silhouette Association (IHMSA) Inc.
P.O. Box 95690
South Jordan, UT 84095
(801) 733-8423
XS Sight Systems
2401 Ludelle
Fort Worth, Texas 76105
(888) 744-4880
“Big Dot” Express handgun sights.
Champion Sights
The only direct replacement for Colt Python sights.
HiViz Sights
1941 Heath Parkway, Ste. #1
Fort Collins, CO 80524
(800) 589-4315
Fiber optic sight blades for many revolvers.
Bowen Classic Arms Corp.
P. O. Box 67
Louisville, TN 37777
(865) 984-3583
The most rugged adjustable rear sights for S&W and Ruger revolvers; front blades for select models and the best J-frame sights available.
Gemini Customs - Marc Morganti
717 Botkins Lane
Frankfort, KY 40601
(502) 226-1230
Fiber optic & gold bead front sights for Ruger revolvers.
Tooltech Gunsight, Inc.
20 Church Street
Oxford, Michigan 48371
(248) 628-1811
Custom night sight installation for most revolvers.
SDM FABRICATING Inc.
3775 Foskett Road
Medina , Ohio 44256
(330) 723-3098
Gold bead and fiber optic front sights, rugged rear sights for S&W revolvers.
Cylinder & Slide, Inc.
245 E. 4th Street
Fremont, NE 68025
(402)721-4277
http://www.cylinder-slide.com/
Extreme Duty fixed rear sights for S&W revolvers.
Crimson Trace Corporation
9780 SW Freeman Dr.
Wilsonville, OR 97070
(800) 442-2406
LaserGrips for many revolver models.
LaserLyte
101 Airpark Rd.
Cottonwood, AZ 86326
(928) 649-3201
Frame mounted lasers for S&W and Taurus revolvers.
Safariland Inc.
3120 East Mission Blvd.
Ontario, CA 91761
(800) 347-1200
My favorite speedloaders.
Buffer Technologies
PO Box 105047
Jefferson City, MO 65110
(877) 628-3337
JET speedloaders.
Dade Speedloaders
Available only on eBay; search for ‘Dade speed loader.’
Bobby Mac
(646) 926-2622
Imports SL Variant speedloaders.
HKS Inc.
http://www.hksspeedloaders.com
Wide range of HKS speedloaders, available only through retailers.
Maxfire, Inc.
3650 South Pointe Circle Suite 205
Laughlin, Nevada 89029
(877) 546-8701
One-piece rubber speedloaders.
5-Star Firearms
41666 N. Sheridan Road
Zion, IL 60099
(847) 731-7898
Aluminum billet speedloaders for a wide range of revolvers.
Ranch Products
PO Box 145
Malinta, OH 43535
(313) 277-3118
Moonclip manufacturer - wide range of sizes, very established company.
TK Custom
404 Fox Ridge Dr
Rantoul, IL 61866-1466
(217) 893-1035
Moonclip and accessory manufacturer, moonclip modifications to existing revolvers.
Bianchi International
A Division of Safariland
(800) 347-1200
The original SpeedStrip ammo carrier/reloading device.
Tuff Products Inc.
877-883-3776
QuickStrips ammo carrier/reloading device; available in wide range of calibers, sizes.
Warren CustomOutdoor Products
3034 Aris St. NW
Warren, Ohio 44485-1601
(330) 898-1475
http://www.warrencustomoutdoor.com/
EEzox brand rust preventatives, cleaners, greases.
PMS Products Inc.
76 Veterans Dr. #110
Holland, Michigan 49423
(800) 962-1732
Exclusive producer of original Boeshield T9 rust preventative.
Birchwood Laboratories, Inc.
7900 Fuller Road
Eden Prairie, MN 55344
800.328.6156
http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/
RIG rust inhibiting grease.
Firearms Engravers Guild of America (FEGA)
1452 Ivanhoe Rd.
Ludington, MI 49431
(616) 929-6146
These are just some of the holsters that have caught my eye; the list is by no means inclusive.
AKJ Concealco
PO Box 134
Rupert, Idaho 83350
(208) 436-7828
Can fit a large number of revolver models; my oldest holster, still in daily use after more than a decade,
is a Concealco.
Black Hills Leather
410 W. Aurora, Dept. WWW
Laredo, TX, 78041
(956) 712-9434
One of the better ‘corporate’ holster companies.
Brigade Gunleather
33301 Osawatomie Rd.
Osawatomie, KS 66064
(888) 600-2377
http://www.brigadegunleather.com
One of the few makers to offer a decently designed IWB for revolvers.
Haugen Handgun Leather
(701) 255-0723
http://haugenhandgunleather.com
Their Model 23 holster is one of the best tunnel-loops made for revolvers.
K.L. Null Holsters LTD.
161 School Street N.W.
Resaca, GA 30735
(706) 625-5643
http://www.klnullholsters.com/
Produces the SKR, one of the more unique shoulder holsters available, and my favorite gun belt.
Mernickle Custom Holsters
1875 View Court
Fernley, Nevada 89408
(775) 575-3166
Comes recommended by many of my clients.
Tauris Holsters
10 Compton Road
New Hartford, New York 13413
(315) 735-0530
One of the best selections of revolver holsters, including belt, pocket, and field models.
K&D Holsters
P.O. Box 4192
Plant City, FL 33563
(813) 659-3456
Offers an above-average number of revolver holsters to fit a wide range of models. Quality construction.
Pocket Concealment Systems
PO Box 10271
Baltimore, MD 21234
(410) 426-9004
Largest range of pocket holsters for revolvers.
Diamond D Custom Leather
3800 East Wickersham Way
Wasilla, AK 99654
(907) 631-4212
http://www.diamonddcustomleather.com
Makes a well designed and constructed tunnel loop holster for revolvers.
Tucker Gunleather
7027 Concho St. Ste. 100
Houston, TX 77074
(713) 267-4822
http://www.tuckergunleather.com
Several revolver only holsters in the line.
J.W. O’Rourke Leather Products
PO Box 1296,
Hartselle, AL 35640
(256) 751-3387
IWB, OWB, pocket holsters; one of the few who will make holsters for the Colt Python.
Winthrop Holsters, LLC
14837 Detroit Ave #316
Lakewood, Ohio 44107
(800)-216-3217
http://www.winthropholsters.com
IWB and OWB models; fits a limited number of revolvers.
Chore-Boy Products
(866) 288-0414
http://www.choreboyscrubbers.com
Makes the Chore Boy Ultimate Scrubber from pure copper knit.
Outers Gun Care
N5549 County Trunk Z
Onalaska, WI 54650
(800) 635-7656
Cleaners, oils, protectants, cleaning kits. The old standby.
Hoppe’s: A Division of Bushnell Outdoor Products
9200 Cody
Overland Park, KS 66214
(800) 423-3537
Makes Tornado brushes and the best-known bore cleaner in the country.
Lewis Lead Remover
A Product of Brownell’s Inc.
200 South Front Street
Montezuma, Iowa 50171
800-741-0015
Lead Away Cloth
A Product of Kleen-Bore, Inc.
13386 International Parkway
Jacksonville, FL 32218
(800) 433-2909
Kleen-Bore makes a huge variety of cleaning products including rods, brushes, and cleaners.
J. Dewey Manufacturing
PO Box 2014
Southbury, CT 06488
(203) 264-3064
My favorite cleaning rods and brushes; one of the few sources for solid chamber rods.
Pat Taylor Custom Checkering
1655 S. Elm St., Unit 112
Canby, OR. 97013
503-266-3684
Sherry Abraham
P.O. BOX 196
Colton, Oregon 97017
Mag-na-port International, Inc.
41302 Executive Drive
Harrison Township, Michigan 48045-1306
(586) 469-6727
The old standby for porting barrels, and still among the best.
Gemini Customs - Marc Morganti
717 Botkins Lane
Frankfort, KY 40601
(502) 226-1230
Only approved source for Jack Weigand’s ‘Hybra-Port’ system.
DeSantis Holsters
DeSantis Holster & Leather Goods Co.
431 Bayview Avenue
Amityville, NY 11701
(631) 841-6300
http://www.desantisholster.com
Bellybands available in black & tan.
Ace Case Manufacturing, LLC
160 North Main Street
St. Clair, MO 63077
(636) 629-4994
Bellybands made in white & black.
Kramer Handgun Leather
P.O. Box 112154
Tacoma, WA 98411
(253) 564-6652
Makers of The Confidant Shirt Holster.
5.11, Inc.
4300 Spyres Way
Modesto, CA 95356
(209) 527-4511
Makes a very form-fitting Holster Shirt; will carry heavier guns than others.
Brownell’s Inc.
200 South Front Street
Montezuma, Iowa 50171
800-741-0015
Brownell’s carries just about everything! Largest selection of tools, parts, and accessories.
Midway USA
5875 West Van Horn Tavern Rd.
Columbia, MO 65203
(800) 243-3220
Ammo, reloading supplies, accessories, parts - the shooting industry’s answer to ‘one-stop shopping.’
Lubriplate Lubricants Co.
129 Lockwood Street
Newark, New Jersey 07105
(973) 589-9150
The best selection of highest quality lubricants.
The Cornered Cat
Kathy Jackon’s online treasure trove of information for women who want to shoot.
Women & Guns Magazine
A Publication of the Second Amendment Foundation
12500 NE 10th Place
Bellevue, WA 98005
(425) 454-7012
The only magazine in the world written and edited by women gunowners for women gunowners.