EIGHT

As soon as they’d gotten out in the dirt parking lot at Katama Beach, Heddy heard the hypnotic sound of the ocean, the big waves seemingly slicing the sky away from the sea, leaving behind a sheet of foam in their wake. The ocean always made Heddy want to run to it, feel the force of it wash up her ankles and chill her legs, and she always laughed, because of the playful nature of something so explosive.

Anna tugged at Heddy’s denim shorts, holding a charred-over remnant of a Roman candle firework she found on the ground. “Will you carry me?”

“Let’s put that in the trash first.” Heddy plucked it from the child’s grip.

Three surfers bobbed just beyond the breaking waves. Several beach blankets were spread out on the beach, many shaded with colorful umbrellas, a necessary reprieve from the blasting sun. She leaned down to balance Anna on one hip, switching the beach bag to the other, while trailing behind Jean-Rose, who was clutching her pink espadrilles in one hand, a streak of plum eye shadow softening her thick black mascara, and waving.

“Ash!” she said. Teddy ran to him, too, slamming his hand with a high five.

A thrill built in Heddy’s chest, the slow climb of a roller coaster up the tracks. She’d been anticipating Teddy’s surf lesson all week for this reason, and there was Ash rising from his aluminum beach chair, a long-pointed surfboard at his feet. He sipped a can of Narragansett beer.

Ash leaned in to kiss Jean-Rose’s cheek. “I like what you’ve done with your hair, Mrs. Williams.”

Jean-Rose’s eyes grew wide. “Ted never notices these things. But I suppose he’ll notice the bill next month.” She touched the bejeweled topaz comb she’d used to part her hair in place; she was trying to preserve the cascade of ringlets from the hairdresser the day before. “And please, it’s Jean-Rose. You make me sound ancient.”

Heddy unpacked the beach bag, laying out a striped blanket near Ash’s chair, handing Anna her bucket and shovel.

Ash leaned down, helping her pull the blanket taut. “Did you have fun with the sparklers last night?”

“We went through them fast—thank goodness Ted brought home an extra box,” Heddy said, letting her cheeks dimple. She helped Teddy pull off his T-shirt, folding it neatly. Boys her age were tossing a football around, and Heddy took a minute to size them up; one was handsome, a head of caramel curls.

“That’s right, the two of you have already met.” Jean-Rose spoke to Ash, as if Heddy wasn’t even there.

“A few times now,” Ash said.

“Right.” Jean-Rose motioned to the aluminum cooler. “Do you mind if I grab a soda?”

“There’s plenty.” Ash handed her a can of ginger ale, and Jean-Rose snapped it open and sipped, scanning the men in the water.

“Surfers on the Vineyard! I have to say, I didn’t get it. Seemed like a sport for Florida boys.”

“I’m trying to change that.” Ash put his hands to his hips, and Heddy, pretending to be concentrating on building castles with Anna, noticed his biceps, the flex of his muscles. “If there are waves,” he said, “you can surf. Doesn’t matter if you’re in Miami or New England.”

“Everyone on the island is talking about it. Ash Porter, the mysterious South Florida boy who can ride on waves. When I say you’re teaching Teddy, everyone—”

“Yes, thank you for the referrals. Got a full schedule now.” He held his beer up to toast her ginger ale.

Jean-Rose presented herself like she was onstage, letting people look at her, immensely comfortable in her own skin. It was a talent, Heddy thought. “I know a lot of the women are dying to try,” said Jean-Rose.

“We’ll have to get you out there then,” he said.

Jean-Rose grinned.

He pointed to several surfboards he’d lined up along the dunes. “You can pick up a smaller board for about fifty dollars. Name the day.”

Teddy jumped up and down. “Can we buy one? Fifty is a good price, Mama.”

Ash and Jean-Rose laughed, like they were tickled by his remark, and Heddy didn’t let them see the roll of her eyes. Why is it funny to raise kids that thought fifty dollars was a bargain?

“Let’s see how you do,” Jean-Rose told Teddy. “Maybe we can make this a weekly thing. Would you mind dropping them home? I have a few things to pick up.”

Ash tossed a red plastic shovel at Heddy’s foot to get her attention. “We’ll throw the kids in the back of the truck with the surfboards.”

“Seriously, Ash.”

Did Jean-Rose just giggle?

Ash got up, pulling his board to its side. “I’m sure Heddy won’t mind if we all squeeze into the cab.”

“Not at all,” she said.

As Jean-Rose turned to go, Ash carried his surfboard to the foamy water. “Ready to get in the water, Ace? The waves are a ten.” The ocean was rough but calmer beyond the break. Heddy watched Teddy sit on the board, digging her hands in the sand alongside Anna, making drip castles. But the child liked knocking them down more than building them up. Since it was too rough for Teddy to stand on the board, Ash beached it. Instead, he instructed Teddy to keep his balance every time a wave broke. They held hands, and if the wave was looming, Ash would pick him up and help him jump it.

A football landed next to her, and she reached for it, throwing it back to the guy with the curls as he ran toward her. He thanked her, and she’d leaned back into her hands, smiling.

“Heddy.” Ash called from the water. “Come in with us.”

“In a minute,” she said. “I’m with Anna.”

Teddy came running out of the ocean sometime later. The water from his bathing trunks plopped cold drops on Heddy’s legs. “Did you see me? He’s going to take me out next time.” He hugged her thighs tight. It was the sweetest he’d ever been to her, and she patted his back, thinking maybe they were turning a corner.

Ash dragged the tip of his board up the sand to where Heddy and Anna were digging. “It’s a little too rough for a first lesson.” He wiped the water from his eyes, sand clumping to the undersides of his trunks.

“Have you been out yet?” Heddy asked.

“All morning. On a typical day here, you’re paddling around, waiting for a few good waves. Today, it’s like Christmas.”

“Lucky you.” She stretched her legs out, reclined in a pose. “I’d love to take a dip. Do you mind watching them for a second?” Heddy didn’t think Jean-Rose would mind. She’d be quick.

Heddy pushed off her straps, wiggling out of the yellow terry-cloth dress, and strolled toward the sea. She dove into the wave, feeling it rush over her, enjoying it wholly before emerging. At the children’s side again, she wrapped her towel around her, like she’d just gotten out of the bath.

“You didn’t give yourself barely a minute.” Ash held a tiny sand crab in his palm, the children begging to hold it. “We think you should try it.”

She squeezed the water out of her hair. “Try what?”

His voice took on the tone of a dare. “Wave riding.”

Heddy threw up her arms, shaking her head with laughter. “Told you, city girl.”

“That’s not a reason, Miss Heddy. It’s an excuse. You may never get another chance to try,” Ash said.

“Now why would I want to?” She met his eyes with a charge.

“Someone forced me out on a board once. You’ll never see the ocean the same way.”

“I couldn’t possibly leave the children—”

“I’m telling you, the waves are plentiful. We’ll be back in minutes,” he said. “Besides, Susanne’s nanny, Rhoda, is right here.” Ash called her over. “Rhoda, will you keep an eye on Jean-Rose’s kids while Heddy goes for a swim?” Heddy knew Rhoda from a playdate. She was on break from the University of Massachusetts, and she and Heddy had laughed when the kids put on a play about their parents, mimicking them sipping cocktails and smoking cigarettes.

“Do it. Do it,” Anna chanted.

“When opportunities come your way, you’ve got to jump on them. The simplest rule of business.” Ash stood, retying the roped belt of his red board shorts.

“Lucky I’m not in business school. I’ve had enough firsts for one summer already.”

Ash raised his eyebrows, causing Heddy to explain. “Jean-Rose taught me how to drive a car last week.” Heddy realized then that she’d wanted to tell him, and it had come out in a burst.

He shook his head, a smart grin on his face. “That woman can get anyone to do anything. How am I losing to her right now?”

Heddy had to laugh. He touched her arm right above her elbow, just for a moment, and nothing about it felt inappropriate, just tender. “Promise me you won’t leave this summer without trying it.”

Something about his backing off, giving her the choice, made her want to say yes.

“Okay, I’ll do it.”

Teddy wrinkled his nose. “You’ll never stand up.”

Ash snapped his fingers. “Yes! Now, don’t worry, you’ll see the kids the entire time.”

He carried the long board out to the sea. She dove in after him and swam beyond the break, turning around when the water was chest-deep to check on the children. Teddy was staring, willing her to fail; Anna was digging.

Ash paddled the board to her. “Get on. Let’s line up.” Heddy pushed herself onto the board, water pouring off her sides. She scooted her bottom back, straddling it. “Lay down on your stomach,” Ash instructed.

Heddy eased herself down on her elbows, pushing back her legs into an A to help balance the surfboard, pressing her belly against the smooth planed surface. Ash propped himself up in between her calves, pulling his body forward, inching closer to her while dangling his legs in the water. She could feel his breath on the backs of her knees and she needed to say something, anything to break the tension balling up inside her.

“You really think we can ride a wave like this?”

“Of course we can,” he said. They rocked in the water, waiting, and Heddy saw the kids pointing at something in the hole they were digging. Teddy picked it up and Anna tried to grab it. Then she’d sunk down in tears. Rhoda consoled Anna, pointing at the water where she and Ash were.

“My time is running out.” The water splashed up on the board, sending a burst of the sea onto Heddy’s back.

“Don’t move an inch,” he told her. She’d pointed her toes then, and they’d momentarily grazed the side of his body. She couldn’t see his face, but his voice felt close, enveloping her like a warm blanket. “On the count of three, pull your legs in, and I’ll jump up. One, two, three.”

She squeezed her legs shut, and all at once, Heddy felt the push of the water against the board. It was a force so strong, it pushed them downhill, and for a moment, it felt like they’d be crushed by the roar of the wave. They shot out just under the crest, and she felt the board propelling them forward like a jet plane. They were racing the water itself. She was still laying down, while Ash had popped up to stand, his feet planted on either side of her hips, and he steadied the board as the white water chased them. Heddy pressed up so she could see, then squeezed her eyes shut to protect them from the spray. The rush of the water made her scream out with glee, and Ash hollered back at her. “We did it, kitty kit,” which made her belly laugh.

They sped toward shore, but Ash turned the board sideways to slow it down. In seconds, they were floating in the foam. Ash hopped off the board, the thunder of an impending wave rolling just beyond the break. “You better get off or you’re toast.”

Her body pumping with adrenaline, Heddy slid into the ocean, sprinting to the shoreline and picking up Anna, spinning her in circles. She grabbed for Teddy, spinning some more, until she was dizzy, collapsing on the sand with laughter.

Ash sat next to her and guffawed. “Bet you’ve never felt anything like it.”

Heddy tried to catch her breath. “No one could tell you what that feels like—you wouldn’t believe it.” Their shoulders kissed for a moment, and they both readjusted their position, scooting farther apart.

“Will you describe it? I want to see it through your eyes,” he said.

“Why?” She brushed at the sand on her legs, rubbing it away with her fingers.

“Because you can’t stop the waves, so everyone reacts a little differently to surfing. Some people are threatened; others are inspired.” He looked like a little boy to her then, curious about the world in a way she didn’t know grown men could be.

Heddy shielded her eyes from the sun, feeling him next to her. “How would I describe it? I suppose it’s like staring down the ocean, ready to take a punch, but then you figure out how to escape, and you outrun it. Faster than you’ve ever outrun anything in your life.” When she’d been on the surfboard, she’d wanted to show the ocean she was mightier, that she could overpower it.

Ash punched her lightly in the arm, like she was his buddy. “So for you, it’s all about the escape. I could see that.”

Perhaps, she thought. Her lips turned up in a half smile. Or maybe there wasn’t a deeper explanation. Maybe she just liked the rush of the water.

“I didn’t think you could do it.” Teddy smirked. He ran off to join Anna, crushing a sand castle with her foot.

Back at the beach blanket, Ash pulled a cold Narragansett from his cooler, reaching for something else. “I have one more ginger ale.” He cupped it in his hand like a baseball, ready to toss it to Heddy, propped on her elbows.

“Sure.” Heddy failed to catch it, and when she picked it up, it was coated in sand.

“You’re such a girl.” Ash said, resting his head on the back of his chair.

“Guilty,” she said, brushing the sand off the can.

He gazed out at the ocean, so she did, too, her mind wandering to her mother, what she was doing right now. What she’d think of what Heddy was doing.

“Penny for your thoughts,” he said.

Heddy smiled shyly, crossing her feet at the ankles and uncrossing them. It was too early to share anything about her mother.

“Walk with me.” He reached for her hand, but once she was next to him, he tapped Anna and Teddy on the back. “Let’s race. Whoever makes it to Dead Man’s Rock wins.”

And he was off. Ash, his back smooth, running in his red bathing trunks, the children chasing him, Teddy putting power into his little legs to stay ahead of Anna. She assumed Dead Man’s Rock was the boulder ahead, and Heddy sprinted down the beach after him. She laughed, tripping on a thick nest of seaweed, then regained her balance and held her hand in front of her mouth. The salt air pumped hard in her chest, and she felt alive. Fully alive.

“Gotcha.” Heddy tackled Teddy and Anna. “You’re mine now.”

Ash was already at the rock, leaning his hand along the tallest edge. “C’mon, kitty kit. I know you’re faster than that.”

Heddy folded her arms “You got a head start.”

“Yeah, that wasn’t fair,” said Anna.

“Well, Anna Banana, that is true. You and Teddy can get a running start on the way back.”

“What is it with you and nicknames anyway?” Running had left Heddy’s hair disheveled, and she was pulling it into a tight, high ponytail. “I’ve only had one nickname in my whole life: my grandmother called me little owl.”

“Of course she did—you’ve got those great big, round eyes.”

Heddy scrunched up her nose. “I hated it. You can just call me Heddy, none of this ‘kitty kit’ stuff.”

“You won’t get off that easy with me. If we’re going to be friends, you’ve got to have a nickname.”

Friends. The children had taken off down the beach, determined to win the race. Heddy started to run, too.

“Well, then what do we call you?” she yelled back. Ash was running again, and he zipped right past her.

“Just call me handsome.”

She shaded her eyes, taking him in as he ran. She heard her mother, the day she left for Wellesley: Some people play the slots. Others put their money into a house. Well, I don’t have any money at all, so I’m investing in you.

It was improbable, of course, but perhaps, just maybe, Ash was the return on her mother’s investment.